I can't believe how straightforward this video is. No history of fenceposts, no anecdotes about your family. No emotional connections. Very nice work indeed, I shall be checking out your other videos.
I have plenty of DIY videos on my channel, so I'm confident you'll find something helpful. Don’t forget to subscribe so you won't miss any new content!
10 днів тому+6
My dad showed me how he knocked a few 6" nails halfway in the post at different levels and sides so they acted as anchor before the concrete was put in.
Excellent information. I have alternated standard ballast/cement and postcrete on the same job. The postcrete locks the fence panels enough to allow the ballast/cement to go off. But then I am tight!
Hi, if im using concrete posts and gravel boards, i normally use postcrete for the posts but then top up any post holes and under/around the geavel boards with concrete. Thanks for your comment, and im glad you liked the video!
I use the postcrete to ensure the post is fixed then fill with concrete, that way you can work faster & provided it is not windy you can use the panels to space the posts. I always use concrete posts, since it's a one time job & you can slide the panels out if they get damaged. I also always use a concrete gravel board, so the bottom of the fence doesn't rot if neighbours pile soil against the fence panels.
Hi, it's my go-to method of fencing, to be honest. I don't think you can beat concrete posts and gravel boards, and if paired with quality treated panels, the fence should last for years! Thanks for your comment 😁😁
A reasonable alternative is to cement stabilise the soil dug from the hole. Mix neat Portland cement at about 5:1 - 5 soil to 1 cement. Dampen it (not too wet ) and tamp down in layers. Works very well.
An excellent video; I commend the no-frills approach and the effective presentation of product usage. That said, I will continue to opt for postcrete for my fence posts, as I find the process of mixing concrete to be inconvenient. Concerning the fence post foam, I will definitely skip that option as its not fit for purpose.
I would say the other thing with the expanding foam is that the disposal of it as and when it needs replacing (which looks like it could be often!!) and it's packaging is not a good idea for the environment with all the plastics and god know what else is in there. Concrete can always be ground up and recycled or whatever. Great video Steve, love the no nonsense reviews from a new subscriber.
Kind of knew that foam wouldn't be much good, can't beat a decent mix of concrete, it's stood the test of time, just ask the Romans. Also a thumbs up for that beautiful Akita ❤
I never concrete right to the top, One bag of post mix is enough for each post unless you have a big deep gate post. If you're worried about your posts rotting put a plastic barrier around them at the the soil level. Concrete doesn't make your post strong all it does is fill the void.
Hi, to prevent the post rotting you need to protect the post 2 inches above ground level and 10 inches below ground level as that is where the oxygen sits in the soil that allow the organisms to live which casue the post to rot.
@@FixitwithFowler yes a barrier like black plastic or a heat shrink sleeve purposely made for the job. Concrete will not stop it from rotting. I have seen loads of posts in concrete that have rotted away in my profession.
Never quite understand the logic of encasing a wooden post in concrete, in the knowledge that eventually it will have to be dug out when the post rots off? I always place a shovel full of sand for the post to stand in, (keeps the base free from water), tightly pack gravel for the support, and then soil to finish off. Then, when the post eventually does need replacing, it can be dug out with a spade, and no lump of concrete to dispose of. But you do it your way, I'll do it mine.
The first time i used postcrete i went back to the merchants and complained that it was off as it was setting to quick in the barrow as i mixed it with the water 😅 The look he gave me.😂 he thought i was winding him up So i persisted and he politely told me how it should be used Goodness i feel like a right one 😂
Steve That's a great video. I subbed to you months ago, but have not seen you since. Just changed the settings to " ALL " so should see you now . Your video coming up tomorrow caught my eye so im sorted now. That foam was so much more expensive and the worst. I've used postcrete and it's great...........although you got to work super fast with it. Look forward to seeing you a bit more often now 👍
Unfortunately, you are right. Everything resolves around money and not quality. I always think if you do something right, you should only have to do it once. Thanks for your comment 😁
It doesn't matter what you use, as somebody commented earlier, they always rot at ground level then you've got to remove the old Concrete or whatever you've used to replace the post, I wrap the bottom with cling film and backfill with what I've dug out, make sure the clingfilm is up about three inches, if and when it does finally rot, which it will, its easy to replace, it works for me,
Would you not use a creacoat to protect the post. As most posts are treated anyway as clingfilm will just hold moisture in-between it and the post causing it to rot faster. Keep clingfilm to food or burns.
@@FixitwithFowler True, but most posts are pressure treated " well in the UK anyway" I always treat the whole posts anyway with a water replant treatment to hold off the heavy downpours we get and the morning dew let alone the winter frost. In the old days my father would use a black tar substance that stuck like dried Weetabix cereal on a bowl 😂 It wouldn't let anything penetrate the wood as it was used for wooden railway sleepers here. Unfortunately those post savers are quite expensive in the UK so for a competent DIYer it's a tad expensive so that's why so many people use a coating, but I completely get it doesn't penetrate as well, I usually soak my posts for 24hrs in a bucket before I set them in the ground if I have the time, if not I will give them at least two coats before It goes in.
Postcrete for ease all day whenever I do fencing, never realised that there was an expanding foam post mix out there, it performed exactly as I thought it would though, Ie; fuckin shite, the UK is a windy little island overall that will apply big loads/forces to your posts, cant see why someone thought that an expanding post foam would be a good idea, it has its uses but this ain't one of them.
Just an honest thought from an ex builder. I would imagine that the timber post is better protected from the elements of ground water with the foam than anything else. How many times have you seen a rotted fence post within the concrete surround. Simple because concrete allows water to penetrate, hence the rot. But with the foam, I would expect this method protects the wood from getting wet and rotting. Any thoughts please?
Hi, im not really sure. The foam is waterproof, so i think it will act the same as concrete. However, the reason post rot at ground level is because the first 8 to 10 inches of soil contain oxygen and that allows organisms and insects to survive in this section of soil. Hence, the wood always rots at that point.
A good alternative is just to use roadbase. Wet it and tamp it as you're filling the hole. It'll hold the post rigid for years - but if/when you want to get the post out, the roadbase is easy to break up - and then can be used again.
Based on the sound of the foam its straight up expanding foam ( polyurethane) perhaps with a UV resistant additive. I thought they'd atleast combine concrete with it, or some kind of glass fibres.
Allways Concrete.... foam is too soft not to mention it rots when exposed to the weather and sunlight and when using concrete in "Soft" Soil you will need to go Deeper and wider than normal for stability i used to do fencing as a job when i left school 30+ years ago and someone the fence jobs i did back then are still there today (concrete posts and gravel boards) wood panels have been replaced of course.
Hi, its a bit dissapointing really that a product that costs so much. i was hoping the fence post foam would be really good but as you seen i dont think its strong enough for fence posts!
Peopel don’t understand the foam. Yes, if you swing on the post it will fail. But in a fencing system with multiple posts all tied together with horizontal rails and fence boards, it won’t move like that. Yes it’s not as strong as concrete or postcrete, but it’s not an unfit for purpose as this video portrays.
I disagree. Maybe if its not going to take any weight and just a post and rail system but in the uk with the ground shrinking and swelling with weather over time it will loosen whereas concrete or postcrete has alot of weight with it to anchor the post into the ground.
@@FixitwithFowler I used it to make a medium sized enclosed area for some commercial wheelie bins about five years ago in south west England. The tenant wasn’t sure if the landlord would kick off and it would need to be removed so we thought to do it in foam for ease of removal if needed. The landlord didn’t care and never said anything about it. We agreed that if it weakens we’d dissolve the foam with a solvent and surround the posts with postcrete. It’s still standing strong after five years.
@brookelewis4102 That's good to hear, but it's definitely not as strong as postcrete or concrete, and for me installing mainly concrete posts, i wouldn't use it as it wouldn't take the weight.
@@FixitwithFowler agreed. Definitely not as strong, just not as awful as swinging on a single post might suggest 😀. As I say, it has its place as a solution for certain scenarios. They also use this for temporary fencing or screening at events like screening toilets, etc.
I recently watched a video by Driving 4 Answers, about the idiotic "wet belt" engine technology. Using expanding foam to hold posts in the ground is equally stupid. How is it that people are able to introduce such foolishness, without others stopping them before they cause problems? It's only videos like this one that highlight these bad ideas, but for some customers, it'll already be too late.
What i don't understand is that due to it not having any weight, it works by force applied to the surrounding soil. However, in the uk with such variable weather, the ground swells and contracts so surely it would last.
Aha ! this useless post ( foam ) might just be the answer to filling pneumatic wheelbarrow tyres ( that ALWAYS ! ) get a puncture ... MY ! tip # 34 😝.. ( please comment ) ............... DAVE™🛑
Ive been fencing for over 25 years and never use concrete, post mix or foam. Diggin a hole then re-filling it with something else that costs money is to me a waste of both money and time not to mention the post will always rot at the neck of the mix where water sits. Truth of the matter is there are so many "fencers" who have little experience and less knowledge. I ask them all, what did we do before all this bagged bullshit and concerete? Folk been putting up fences for thousands of years prior to this nonsense. Anyone turns up to put your wooden fence up with concrete or post mix then show them the door. Get someone who has old school experience and knows what he is talking about and you will save a fortune. Good luck on finding one. Hahaha digging holes and filling them with money! Some state were in!
@@peterblezard8967 Yes. Just backfill with the spoil and ram it tight. Depth is key and ground type. There are plenty tricks that can be used to firm up a post but generaly the spoil is enough. With regards to knocking stobs/stabs "fencers" would be amazed at what can be driven into the ground by hand using a proper pinch bar and a 22lb mell/maul.... swinging a 22lb mell is no joke and done properly can generate a hell of a power when it connects and what a sweet sound too. Done properly it is swung in a full circle and only stops for a split second when it hits the top then its pulled off and falls toward the gound then momentum takes it all the way back round. My old boss would have 2 of us either side of the stab both swinging a mell while he held it and checked it as it went. Was like a well oiled machine. He also had a 28lb which was a beast and the only one Ive ever seen or used. Visa tools usa used to make them but probably too heavy for the modern day man. 16lb seems to be all anyone uses which is like knocking in a 9 inch nail with a toffee hammer.... you cant!
If you slope your Postcrete away from the post there will be no water lying. I put a fence up 25 years ago and the posts are perfect. Your backfill idea is fine in a dry climate. Where I live the posts would be rotten inside five years.
@@raftonpounder6696 haha yeah you put up ONE fence 25 years ago. Sounds like you have a lot of experience on this one. Do you understand variables or do you with all your experience think a fence is a fence and a post is a post? So you know for future wood comes in many species some hard and some soft, some with tight grain structure and some with wide grain structure, some that rot in a few months and some that last decades even without treatment, some that repel insects while others make perfect homes for them then you have the treatment itself which also varies greatly from sawmill to sawmilll and place to place. Im glad youre one fence is still standing. Must be the way you sloped the post mix round the necks and nothing to do with any of the above but what do I know.
@@BrianFrost-ww1te do you think because you put up a few fences in your time that nobody else knows anything? Even what type of wood I used? Put it like this, I have never seen a fence erected using your method by anyone in this country. Anywhere. That’s how good it must be.
Another brilliant video, I am about to tackle some fencing for the first time so with this and you other fencing video I'm sure i will be able to do it my self. I think i will use postcrete as it seems the easiest to use! Thanks again.
Hi, i would definitely use postcrete for ease of use and speed. It isn't as strong as concrete, but i think it is plenty strong enough for a fence post! Thanks for taking the time to comment!!
Never seen or heard of the foam fixing and unless it cures harder over time it definitely looks to be one to avoid. Personally I’d do hand mixed concrete, not only is it cheaper but you can be confident that the concrete has been properly wetted and set hard throughout. Too easy for water not to get to the bottom of the postcrete powder resulting in a weaker fixing and ultimately the post fixing failing. Proper DIY Stuart Matthew’s did a test, digging up the posts afterwards and his results with postcrete were noticeably poorer with voids and holes in the concrete
If you need to complete a job quickly and easily, then postcrete is the way to go, but for all out strength, then concrete is the best. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It was much appreciated!
My concrete would have been a fairly dry mix - just enough water to wet the coarse aggregate lumps so the fine agregate and cement will adhere to it. Well tamped in thinnish layers gives immediate support for the post, but may take longer to cure (don’t really know, but it will depend on the actual mix). But that concrete will not shrink and if finished off well at the top will avoid ingress of water later on. Each post will take longer to install with this ‘dry’ mix but the result will be superior to wet concrete, which will invariably contain more water than that needed to hydrate the cement.
Never, ever use expanding foam for strength. It never works. Here in Russia, I've seen front doors fixed to brickwork using only foam. No fixings, just foam 😮😒👷♂️😕
Good video, if I have more than 2 posts I mix concrete over postcrete. I always do a semi dry (damp) mix, almost crumbly and tamp down really hard, you can leave the post then without supports, more than 30 years, that's the way my old Dad showed me and Dad's know best, don't they? :) I love watching different ways to do stuff, you can learn a lot. Keep it up.
I tend to do it myself as a diy project, i use postcrete and never had a problem with it, i just make sure the hole is deep and wide enough and have a bit of drainage in the bottom of the hole with a good slope to stop any water building up where it comes out of the ground, i also creacoat the bit of the post going into the ground with a couple of inches above ground as well so its protected as much as it can be. My two fences i have built in 14 years "moved house twice" have never failed or broken in any way doing it like above and I live in uk where in the Southwest we get battered by strong winds,heavy rain then glorious sunshine with snow and ice in the winter, i sometimes brace my posts with a diagonal post to support it if i live in a gusty area. So the moral of the story is as long as you do the job to a good standard and follow the recommendations on the bag and your instincts "many people don't" it will work fine, just remember a fence is the whole thing supporting each other not just one post. I also make sure there is some kind of end cap post protection on top and paint my fence to give it even more of a chance to survive for a long time. Personally I find concrete or postcrete adequate for a DIY job or professional if you use other materials with it so you get a better combined resistance to water.
I totally agree with you and some good tips. To be honest, i never use wooden posts now, but this was more about what to use in the ground. Thanks for your great comment!!!
Q for you please regarding a upvc door. Our back door doesn't always retract the hooks when you move the handles down? I took the handles off and inside there are 2 spindle holes, why? If i put the handle inside the second lower hole all works fine unlike top hole but obviously the cover then wont line up. Will i need to replace the mechanism?
I can't believe how straightforward this video is. No history of fenceposts, no anecdotes about your family. No emotional connections. Very nice work indeed, I shall be checking out your other videos.
I have plenty of DIY videos on my channel, so I'm confident you'll find something helpful. Don’t forget to subscribe so you won't miss any new content!
My dad showed me how he knocked a few 6" nails halfway in the post at different levels and sides so they acted as anchor before the concrete was put in.
Thats a good idea! Thanks for your comment 😁
That foam lol, as expected. What a crazy idea ! Thanks Steve
Hi, it was from a uk company but unfortunately just not strong enough for the job! Thanks for watching 😁
@FixitwithFowler have they seen this?
Excellent demo, very useful👍
Thanks, i was just curious as to which would be best to use.
Excellent information. I have alternated standard ballast/cement and postcrete on the same job. The postcrete locks the fence panels enough to allow the ballast/cement to go off. But then I am tight!
Hi, if im using concrete posts and gravel boards, i normally use postcrete for the posts but then top up any post holes and under/around the geavel boards with concrete. Thanks for your comment, and im glad you liked the video!
I use the postcrete to ensure the post is fixed then fill with concrete, that way you can work faster & provided it is not windy you can use the panels to space the posts. I always use concrete posts, since it's a one time job & you can slide the panels out if they get damaged. I also always use a concrete gravel board, so the bottom of the fence doesn't rot if neighbours pile soil against the fence panels.
Hi, it's my go-to method of fencing, to be honest. I don't think you can beat concrete posts and gravel boards, and if paired with quality treated panels, the fence should last for years! Thanks for your comment 😁😁
Never heard of the foam before, saw the price and then saw the post pull out and thought there’s the reason 😆
Yeah its definitely not worth £20, i just don't understand how it can work!
Concrete type materials take a full 29 days to cure completely, so the final two should get even stronger over time.
In fact, concrete continues to gain strength over a very long period of time. Thanks for your comment
A reasonable alternative is to cement stabilise the soil dug from the hole. Mix neat Portland cement at about 5:1 - 5 soil to 1 cement. Dampen it (not too wet ) and tamp down in layers. Works very well.
Thats new to me, thanks for the idea!!
yep i did that with my shed It is still strong 10 years on.
I did that with my shed base too, no one I know has ever heard of it but it works 👍
It depends on the soil, though. Mine is clay. Good enough for pottery almost...
@@Marek-o3u yes clay soils respond better to quicklime being mixed in to make them more stable.
👍👍👍 Great demo. Thanks Steve
I'm a bit disappointed with the foam, to be honest, but im glad i hadn't used it on a job! Thanks for your comment!
An excellent video; I commend the no-frills approach and the effective presentation of product usage. That said, I will continue to opt for postcrete for my fence posts, as I find the process of mixing concrete to be inconvenient. Concerning the fence post foam, I will definitely skip that option as its not fit for purpose.
Thanks for your great comment, im glad you liked the video.
Thanks for showing these various methods and highlighting the best.👍👍 Beautiful dog by the way !!
Im glad you liked the video. The dog (Otis) is an American Akita and is making a lovely dog! Thanks for your comment!
This is brilliant
I'm thrilled you enjoyed the video! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment-really appreciate it!
Remember you can use rapid set cement and the ballast mix will set as fast as postcrete
Yeah good shout! Thanks for your comment
Leave the expanding foam to fill gaps then? Stick to concrete for securing posts 😊👍. As always, great video pal!
I thought i would try it to see, but I'm glad that wasn't a proper fence, or i would be so annoyed! Thanks for your comment!
I would say the other thing with the expanding foam is that the disposal of it as and when it needs replacing (which looks like it could be often!!) and it's packaging is not a good idea for the environment with all the plastics and god know what else is in there. Concrete can always be ground up and recycled or whatever. Great video Steve, love the no nonsense reviews from a new subscriber.
Hi, firstly, thanks for your great comment, and im glad you like my content and channel. 😁
Good advice Steve xx
Thanks!!!
Nice videos fella
Glad you like them! Thanks for your comment 😁
Great video thanks for sharing, what a rip off the foam is !
Yeah, i am really disappointed with it, to be honest. I like trying new products, but i would never use this again! Thanks for your comment!
Kind of knew that foam wouldn't be much good, can't beat a decent mix of concrete, it's stood the test of time, just ask the Romans.
Also a thumbs up for that beautiful Akita ❤
Yeah i agree, concrete is by far the strongest! Thanks for your comment and especially about Otis my dog!
Thanks Steve great
Hi, thanks for your comment! I glad you liked the video!
good information, thanks mate.
Thanks for your comment and im glad you found the video useful!
I never concrete right to the top, One bag of post mix is enough for each post unless you have a big deep gate post. If you're worried about your posts rotting put a plastic barrier around them at the the soil level. Concrete doesn't make your post strong all it does is fill the void.
Hi, to prevent the post rotting you need to protect the post 2 inches above ground level and 10 inches below ground level as that is where the oxygen sits in the soil that allow the organisms to live which casue the post to rot.
@@FixitwithFowler yes a barrier like black plastic or a heat shrink sleeve purposely made for the job. Concrete will not stop it from rotting. I have seen loads of posts in concrete that have rotted away in my profession.
@adus123 yeah, the company that supplied the foam do a post saver and to ne honest looks really good
Never quite understand the logic of encasing a wooden post in concrete, in the knowledge that eventually it will have to be dug out when the post rots off?
I always place a shovel full of sand for the post to stand in, (keeps the base free from water), tightly pack gravel for the support, and then soil to finish off.
Then, when the post eventually does need replacing, it can be dug out with a spade, and no lump of concrete to dispose of.
But you do it your way, I'll do it mine.
Yeah, each to their own! Thanks for your comment!
Great stuff, thank god this is already sorted. I'm sure you'll be coming up with something very soon she will want doing though haha.
Thanks again for your comments! I was sent the foam to try, and in my opinion, it's just not strong enough!
@@FixitwithFowler probably doesn't help with someone of your strength either haha
No, i did give it some beans, but it shouldn't have moved like that!
The first time i used postcrete i went back to the merchants and complained that it was off as it was setting to quick in the barrow as i mixed it with the water 😅
The look he gave me.😂 he thought i was winding him up
So i persisted and he politely told me how it should be used
Goodness i feel like a right one 😂
Thats brilliant, im not one for looking at instruction so sometimes i come unstuck much to my Wife's delight!!
Steve That's a great video. I subbed to you months ago, but have not seen you since. Just changed the settings to " ALL " so should see you now . Your video coming up tomorrow caught my eye so im sorted now. That foam was so much more expensive and the worst. I've used postcrete and it's great...........although you got to work super fast with it. Look forward to seeing you a bit more often now 👍
Thats strange, im glad you have managed to figure out the settings so you will see all of my new videos!
Postcrete all the way. It’s so easy to use.
Postcrete is definitely the easiest to use and is what i normally use. Thanks for your comment!
What it really comes down to is what the client is willing to pay for the job in hand as let’s face it they all want it done for nothing
Unfortunately, you are right. Everything resolves around money and not quality. I always think if you do something right, you should only have to do it once. Thanks for your comment 😁
It doesn't matter what you use, as somebody commented earlier, they always rot at ground level then you've got to remove the old Concrete or whatever you've used to replace the post, I wrap the bottom with cling film and backfill with what I've dug out, make sure the clingfilm is up about three inches, if and when it does finally rot, which it will, its easy to replace, it works for me,
Yeah good idea with the cling film, thanks for your comment!
@@FixitwithFowler Thank you for your reply.
Would you not use a creacoat to protect the post.
As most posts are treated anyway as clingfilm will just hold moisture in-between it and the post causing it to rot faster.
Keep clingfilm to food or burns.
@davedevonlad7402 what you should actually use is a postsaver, anything painted on will only penetrate so deep!
@@FixitwithFowler True, but most posts are pressure treated " well in the UK anyway"
I always treat the whole posts anyway with a water replant treatment to hold off the heavy downpours we get and the morning dew let alone the winter frost.
In the old days my father would use a black tar substance that stuck like dried Weetabix cereal on a bowl 😂
It wouldn't let anything penetrate the wood as it was used for wooden railway sleepers here.
Unfortunately those post savers are quite expensive in the UK so for a competent DIYer it's a tad expensive so that's why so many people use a coating, but I completely get it doesn't penetrate as well, I usually soak my posts for 24hrs in a bucket before I set them in the ground if I have the time, if not I will give them at least two coats before It goes in.
The best way is with a post stirrup, maybe not suitable for a fence
Yeah, probably not strong enough for a fence . Thanks for your comment
Postcrete for ease all day whenever I do fencing, never realised that there was an expanding foam post mix out there, it performed exactly as I thought it would though, Ie; fuckin shite, the UK is a windy little island overall that will apply big loads/forces to your posts, cant see why someone thought that an expanding post foam would be a good idea, it has its uses but this ain't one of them.
I like trying new products but this just wasn't good enough and i would never put a fence up with it
Just an honest thought from an ex builder. I would imagine that the timber post is better protected from the elements of ground water with the foam than anything else. How many times have you seen a rotted fence post within the concrete surround. Simple because concrete allows water to penetrate, hence the rot. But with the foam, I would expect this method protects the wood from getting wet and rotting. Any thoughts please?
Hi, im not really sure. The foam is waterproof, so i think it will act the same as concrete. However, the reason post rot at ground level is because the first 8 to 10 inches of soil contain oxygen and that allows organisms and insects to survive in this section of soil. Hence, the wood always rots at that point.
A good alternative is just to use roadbase. Wet it and tamp it as you're filling the hole. It'll hold the post rigid for years - but if/when you want to get the post out, the roadbase is easy to break up - and then can be used again.
Never knew this, thanks for your comment!
Is roadbase also known as "MOT"? If so, that sounds like a great idea.
Yes, i presume it's MOT type 1
£20 for a bag of grey expanding foam 😳
Yeah, it's not cheap and, in my opinion, not really fit for purpose.
Based on the sound of the foam its straight up expanding foam ( polyurethane) perhaps with a UV resistant additive.
I thought they'd atleast combine concrete with it, or some kind of glass fibres.
Yeah you would think it would be reinforced in some way!
@@FixitwithFowler As a follow up would you be able to do the same strength test with normal expanding foam?
@@freedomofmotion not really, i wouldn't use any type of foam now for fencing
@@FixitwithFowler I mean as a direct comparison for YT content and those sweet sweet algorithm points.
Nice dog.good job.😊
Thanks and thanks 😁😁😁
Use treated poles, back fill with removed soil, tamp down and job done. Spending money on fancy fillers is a waste.
Yeah, that's one way to do it unless the ground becomes waterlogged and the post is supporting a large fence in windy conditions.
you’d like to think the foam people would have done that test 😂
Yeah, you would think so. Just not strong enough to hold a fence post, let alone a fence in the wind!
Allways Concrete.... foam is too soft not to mention it rots when exposed to the weather and sunlight and when using concrete in "Soft" Soil you will need to go Deeper and wider than normal for stability i used to do fencing as a job when i left school 30+ years ago and someone the fence jobs i did back then are still there today (concrete posts and gravel boards) wood panels have been replaced of course.
I always use concrete posts and gravel boards when fencing. Just lasts longer however there are now new products available like durapost systems.
1 shovel of cement isn't the same as 1 shovel of ballast
best to bucket gauge for a stronger mix
It's only for a fence post!!!
@@FixitwithFowler It will be a 10 & 1 mix if you use a shovel gauge . That I agree will be plenty good enough for a post that will rot away i
Should use concrete posts, soak the ends in water, then use postcrete, they aint going anywhere !
Thats my normal method but this was just a comparison video between different products.
The foam has to be one of the worst ideas I’ve ever heard 👍🏼
Hi, its a bit dissapointing really that a product that costs so much. i was hoping the fence post foam would be really good but as you seen i dont think its strong enough for fence posts!
Peopel don’t understand the foam. Yes, if you swing on the post it will fail. But in a fencing system with multiple posts all tied together with horizontal rails and fence boards, it won’t move like that.
Yes it’s not as strong as concrete or postcrete, but it’s not an unfit for purpose as this video portrays.
I disagree. Maybe if its not going to take any weight and just a post and rail system but in the uk with the ground shrinking and swelling with weather over time it will loosen whereas concrete or postcrete has alot of weight with it to anchor the post into the ground.
@@FixitwithFowler I used it to make a medium sized enclosed area for some commercial wheelie bins about five years ago in south west England. The tenant wasn’t sure if the landlord would kick off and it would need to be removed so we thought to do it in foam for ease of removal if needed. The landlord didn’t care and never said anything about it. We agreed that if it weakens we’d dissolve the foam with a solvent and surround the posts with postcrete. It’s still standing strong after five years.
@brookelewis4102 That's good to hear, but it's definitely not as strong as postcrete or concrete, and for me installing mainly concrete posts, i wouldn't use it as it wouldn't take the weight.
@@FixitwithFowler agreed. Definitely not as strong, just not as awful as swinging on a single post might suggest 😀. As I say, it has its place as a solution for certain scenarios. They also use this for temporary fencing or screening at events like screening toilets, etc.
I recently watched a video by Driving 4 Answers, about the idiotic "wet belt" engine technology. Using expanding foam to hold posts in the ground is equally stupid. How is it that people are able to introduce such foolishness, without others stopping them before they cause problems? It's only videos like this one that highlight these bad ideas, but for some customers, it'll already be too late.
What i don't understand is that due to it not having any weight, it works by force applied to the surrounding soil. However, in the uk with such variable weather, the ground swells and contracts so surely it would last.
Aha ! this useless post ( foam ) might just be the answer to filling pneumatic wheelbarrow tyres ( that ALWAYS ! ) get a puncture ... MY ! tip # 34 😝.. ( please comment ) ............... DAVE™🛑
Oh yeah, that's a good idea, but i don't think it's even good enough for that!
Hope you complained and got money back , as not fit for purpose that foam
Luckily, it was a freebie, and i was excited to try it. However, the post foam just isn't strong enough. Thanks for your comment!
Ive been fencing for over 25 years and never use concrete, post mix or foam. Diggin a hole then re-filling it with something else that costs money is to me a waste of both money and time not to mention the post will always rot at the neck of the mix where water sits. Truth of the matter is there are so many "fencers" who have little experience and less knowledge. I ask them all, what did we do before all this bagged bullshit and concerete? Folk been putting up fences for thousands of years prior to this nonsense. Anyone turns up to put your wooden fence up with concrete or post mix then show them the door. Get someone who has old school experience and knows what he is talking about and you will save a fortune. Good luck on finding one. Hahaha digging holes and filling them with money! Some state were in!
So you just fill it back up with the spoil? How strong is it or do you knock posts in?
@@peterblezard8967 Yes. Just backfill with the spoil and ram it tight. Depth is key and ground type. There are plenty tricks that can be used to firm up a post but generaly the spoil is enough. With regards to knocking stobs/stabs "fencers" would be amazed at what can be driven into the ground by hand using a proper pinch bar and a 22lb mell/maul.... swinging a 22lb mell is no joke and done properly can generate a hell of a power when it connects and what a sweet sound too. Done properly it is swung in a full circle and only stops for a split second when it hits the top then its pulled off and falls toward the gound then momentum takes it all the way back round. My old boss would have 2 of us either side of the stab both swinging a mell while he held it and checked it as it went. Was like a well oiled machine. He also had a 28lb which was a beast and the only one Ive ever seen or used. Visa tools usa used to make them but probably too heavy for the modern day man. 16lb seems to be all anyone uses which is like knocking in a 9 inch nail with a toffee hammer.... you cant!
If you slope your Postcrete away from the post there will be no water lying. I put a fence up 25 years ago and the posts are perfect. Your backfill idea is fine in a dry climate. Where I live the posts would be rotten inside five years.
@@raftonpounder6696 haha yeah you put up ONE fence 25 years ago. Sounds like you have a lot of experience on this one. Do you understand variables or do you with all your experience think a fence is a fence and a post is a post? So you know for future wood comes in many species some hard and some soft, some with tight grain structure and some with wide grain structure, some that rot in a few months and some that last decades even without treatment, some that repel insects while others make perfect homes for them then you have the treatment itself which also varies greatly from sawmill to sawmilll and place to place. Im glad youre one fence is still standing. Must be the way you sloped the post mix round the necks and nothing to do with any of the above but what do I know.
@@BrianFrost-ww1te do you think because you put up a few fences in your time that nobody else knows anything? Even what type of wood I used? Put it like this, I have never seen a fence erected using your method by anyone in this country. Anywhere. That’s how good it must be.
Another brilliant video, I am about to tackle some fencing for the first time so with this and you other fencing video I'm sure i will be able to do it my self. I think i will use postcrete as it seems the easiest to use! Thanks again.
Hi, i would definitely use postcrete for ease of use and speed. It isn't as strong as concrete, but i think it is plenty strong enough for a fence post! Thanks for taking the time to comment!!
Never seen or heard of the foam fixing and unless it cures harder over time it definitely looks to be one to avoid.
Personally I’d do hand mixed concrete, not only is it cheaper but you can be confident that the concrete has been properly wetted and set hard throughout. Too easy for water not to get to the bottom of the postcrete powder resulting in a weaker fixing and ultimately the post fixing failing. Proper DIY Stuart Matthew’s did a test, digging up the posts afterwards and his results with postcrete were noticeably poorer with voids and holes in the concrete
If you need to complete a job quickly and easily, then postcrete is the way to go, but for all out strength, then concrete is the best. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It was much appreciated!
Just goes to show that the most expensive method usually tends to be the worst...
Yeah, i am going to stick to postcrete or concrete, but i always like trying new products as sometimes you strike gold!
My concrete would have been a fairly dry mix - just enough water to wet the coarse aggregate lumps so the fine agregate and cement will adhere to it.
Well tamped in thinnish layers gives immediate support for the post, but may take longer to cure (don’t really know, but it will depend on the actual mix). But that concrete will not shrink and if finished off well at the top will avoid ingress of water later on.
Each post will take longer to install with this ‘dry’ mix but the result will be superior to wet concrete, which will invariably contain more water than that needed to hydrate the cement.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. i appreciate it.
Never, ever use expanding foam for strength. It never works.
Here in Russia, I've seen front doors fixed to brickwork using only foam. No fixings, just foam 😮😒👷♂️😕
Good video, if I have more than 2 posts I mix concrete over postcrete. I always do a semi dry (damp) mix, almost crumbly and tamp down really hard, you can leave the post then without supports, more than 30 years, that's the way my old Dad showed me and Dad's know best, don't they? :) I love watching different ways to do stuff, you can learn a lot. Keep it up.
Thanks for your detailed comment, and yes, Dad's do know best!
Big crack in postcrete
It was only on the surface as i removed the posts after the test, however the concrete was definitely the strongest to secure a post
I tend to do it myself as a diy project, i use postcrete and never had a problem with it, i just make sure the hole is deep and wide enough and have a bit of drainage in the bottom of the hole with a good slope to stop any water building up where it comes out of the ground, i also creacoat the bit of the post going into the ground with a couple of inches above ground as well so its protected as much as it can be.
My two fences i have built in 14 years "moved house twice" have never failed or broken in any way doing it like above and I live in uk where in the Southwest we get battered by strong winds,heavy rain then glorious sunshine with snow and ice in the winter, i sometimes brace my posts with a diagonal post to support it if i live in a gusty area.
So the moral of the story is as long as you do the job to a good standard and follow the recommendations on the bag and your instincts
"many people don't"
it will work fine, just remember a fence is the whole thing supporting each other not just one post.
I also make sure there is some kind of end cap post protection on top and paint my fence to give it even more of a chance to survive for a long time.
Personally I find concrete or postcrete adequate for a DIY job or professional if you use other materials with it so you get a better combined resistance to water.
I totally agree with you and some good tips. To be honest, i never use wooden posts now, but this was more about what to use in the ground. Thanks for your great comment!!!
Q for you please regarding a upvc door. Our back door doesn't always retract the hooks when you move the handles down? I took the handles off and inside there are 2 spindle holes, why? If i put the handle inside the second lower hole all works fine unlike top hole but obviously the cover then wont line up. Will i need to replace the mechanism?
Hi, i would suspect the gearbox/locking mechanism is worn.
Back to the drawing board for the foam.
The fence post foam just isn't up to the job, shame really as i like trying new products!
Great video, you've potentially saved someone a lot of money there. That foam is bobbins.
You got that right! Im glad i tried it as i like trying new products, but it just isn't strong enough
Very useful information. Six posts to fix and will definitely avoid foam !.
Yes, i would definitely avoid the foam! Thanks for your comment!
excellent video, points well made and described. thank you,
Thanks for your positive comments and feedback!
Brilliant!!
Thanks for your comment!