Homeowners Insurance Survey - n6ybsxp0y7y.typeform.com/to/I9U8iLnm Trim Puller - geni.us/2N2iPG Thin Flat Bar - geni.us/bumA Stud Master Stud Finder - geni.us/zg36w OLFA (25 mm) Utility Knife - geni.us/V9aNIF End Cutters (Removing Nails) - geni.us/AsIn DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
When you label the back side of each piece of trim, you can write the same label on the drywall below the trim line. That further reduces the chance of mixing up where the trim pieces go.
Considering that each piece of drywall will only fit in one place correctly, this is a waste of time. All you need to do is stack it in the order you removed it.
No, it’s not true that each piece will fit in only one place. Some pieces may fit in multiple places, so it’s best to label both the trim and the wall.
Stack it assuming no one disturbs your pile. I just number the piece and same number on the location where it goes. Been doing it for years no problems.@@MAGAMAN
Perfect time for this video. We are setting up for a kitchen renovation and the builders said they would have to replace the base board trim since they couldn’t remove it without damage. I said I don’t think so!
I am just enjoying your channel more involved in the day to day activities. I would love to see the results of the survey. Well done on the trim job. Thank you for sharing
I just moved into my first home and pulled the trim to refinish the hardwood. The trim puller is magical but I found it too thick to do the initial prying. A thin bar and a dead blow mallet did the truck, I specifically bought the "A. Richard Lever Bar Scraper 10 Inch" from Home Depot but the blue one you have looks similar. I used it to pry enough to slide the trim puller in and then it did the rest of the work. I also used the snip style pliers to pull nails out, specifically the "Husky 7 inch High-Leverage End Nipper with Hammer Claw"
Thanks for sharing this. The instructions are very clear and it's so useful ❤ If I only want to replace the middle section of a baseboard (between two walls), without taking the whole piece off the wall, how should I cut that mid-section off and replace it? Many thanks?
A retired electrician showed me how to use a broad nose plier to hold in guessing were 1.5" staples pulled out earlier to remove the base trim, and these were like brads but had no heads. They went in nicely without bending which was a pleasant surprise to me.
I have that same trim puller and it’s nice. What I need is a recommendation for a “strong” brad nailer. The baseboards are about 3/4” hardwood going into 3/4” hardwood walls with 1/4” drywall in front. It’s a retrofit that never had drywall or plaster originally.
I have found that less damage is created when you use your trim puller ....not by pulling up on it but pushing down towards the floor once you have worked it in behind the base boards. Any damage above the baseboards can be seen and that will happen when pulling up on it...but if damage occurs below and behind the baseboards it will be less noticeable and likely require less repair if any. If it was air nailed you are likely going to need to buy new trim boards.
Be careful with that knife blade extended out so far! I drove a guy to the hospital once with a horrible cut from a blade that broke off and got stuck in a baseboard.
I don’t pry up and down, I pry left and right and it works better and faster for me, also if you do dent the drywall it’s behind the baseboard so it’s covered.
Home insurance in Florida has risen at the same time hurricanes and floods have been getting worse... hmm, wonder why. Good on yall for the collective action though, only way we'll get corporations in line is if we band together.
I usually place a piece of poster board between the trim and the floor, then slide it out after the trim is attached. This allows for expansion an contraction in the flooring. Especially when vinyl flooring is used.
I'd tape the wall to avoid marring the paint. I like to keep a few plastic or wood shims handy because sometimes the wood teeter totters. That would be difficult to remove if it was attached with trim screws.
Wish we had drywall…90 year old plaster and lathe with chicken wire here. Good luck finding a stud with a magnet in this mess. I’ve yet to find an electronic stud finder that works, either, so it’s just drill a hole and get out the inspection camera.
You smeared way too much caulking all over your wall. Also, don't ever use caulk to fill in nail holes. Use wood filler. Caulking leaves a residue that you will never get rid of because you can't sand caulking.
Homeowners Insurance Survey - n6ybsxp0y7y.typeform.com/to/I9U8iLnm
Trim Puller - geni.us/2N2iPG
Thin Flat Bar - geni.us/bumA
Stud Master Stud Finder - geni.us/zg36w
OLFA (25 mm) Utility Knife - geni.us/V9aNIF
End Cutters (Removing Nails) - geni.us/AsIn
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
When you label the back side of each piece of trim, you can write the same label on the drywall below the trim line. That further reduces the chance of mixing up where the trim pieces go.
Nice tip 👍
Considering that each piece of drywall will only fit in one place correctly, this is a waste of time. All you need to do is stack it in the order you removed it.
No, it’s not true that each piece will fit in only one place. Some pieces may fit in multiple places, so it’s best to label both the trim and the wall.
Stack it assuming no one disturbs your pile. I just number the piece and same number on the location where it goes. Been doing it for years no problems.@@MAGAMAN
Perfect time for this video. We are setting up for a kitchen renovation and the builders said they would have to replace the base board trim since they couldn’t remove it without damage. I said I don’t think so!
Nice, that is a perfect project. Best of luck!
I am just enjoying your channel more involved in the day to day activities. I would love to see the results of the survey. Well done on the trim job. Thank you for sharing
Nice job Scott! … Your methods came across as being very effective.
I just moved into my first home and pulled the trim to refinish the hardwood. The trim puller is magical but I found it too thick to do the initial prying. A thin bar and a dead blow mallet did the truck, I specifically bought the "A. Richard Lever Bar Scraper 10 Inch" from Home Depot but the blue one you have looks similar. I used it to pry enough to slide the trim puller in and then it did the rest of the work. I also used the snip style pliers to pull nails out, specifically the "Husky 7 inch High-Leverage End Nipper with Hammer Claw"
Very well explained, thanks!
Thanks!
very thankful for these videos, you are the best!
Thanks for the feedback and support 👍
Thanks for sharing this. The instructions are very clear and it's so useful ❤ If I only want to replace the middle section of a baseboard (between two walls), without taking the whole piece off the wall, how should I cut that mid-section off and replace it? Many thanks?
Good timing, i think ill need to do this to fish cables around the house... I hope it goes smoothly
🙋♂️VERY GOOD EXPLANATION,SCOTT🤗💚💚💚
A retired electrician showed me how to use a broad nose plier to hold in guessing were 1.5" staples pulled out earlier to remove the base trim, and these were like brads but had no heads. They went in nicely without bending which was a pleasant surprise to me.
Slim pry bar and off set side cutter I use for removing nails. New homes use 18/16 gage fasteners mainly
I have that same trim puller and it’s nice.
What I need is a recommendation for a “strong” brad nailer. The baseboards are about 3/4” hardwood going into 3/4” hardwood walls with 1/4” drywall in front. It’s a retrofit that never had drywall or plaster originally.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
You bet!
I have found that less damage is created when you use your trim puller ....not by pulling up on it but pushing down towards the floor once you have worked it in behind the base boards. Any damage above the baseboards can be seen and that will happen when pulling up on it...but if damage occurs below and behind the baseboards it will be less noticeable and likely require less repair if any. If it was air nailed you are likely going to need to buy new trim boards.
What is the name of that Gray paint ?
You can also tap the nails out from the back with a hammer or wrench.
For some reason I can always see my nail holes even though I fill them in. Can you glue the baseboard trim in order to avoid using nails?
Be careful with that knife blade extended out so far! I drove a guy to the hospital once with a horrible cut from a blade that broke off and got stuck in a baseboard.
Oh man, that does not sound fun 😅
write dr1 on the wall too and makes it a no brainer
I don’t pry up and down, I pry left and right and it works better and faster for me, also if you do dent the drywall it’s behind the baseboard so it’s covered.
Home insurance in Florida has risen at the same time hurricanes and floods have been getting worse... hmm, wonder why.
Good on yall for the collective action though, only way we'll get corporations in line is if we band together.
Did you see harbor freight’s wago knock offs? Will you be reviewing them?
Just picked up a pack.
👍👌
How do you work the gaps where the trim meets the floor?
I usually place a piece of poster board between the trim and the floor, then slide it out after the trim is attached. This allows for expansion an contraction in the flooring. Especially when vinyl flooring is used.
I'd tape the wall to avoid marring the paint. I like to keep a few plastic or wood shims handy because sometimes the wood teeter totters.
That would be difficult to remove if it was attached with trim screws.
Wish we had drywall…90 year old plaster and lathe with chicken wire here. Good luck finding a stud with a magnet in this mess. I’ve yet to find an electronic stud finder that works, either, so it’s just drill a hole and get out the inspection camera.
that's definitely challenging with plaster and it still cracks leaving a mess and damage to the wall because it's so brittle
About that survey: I almost aborted at the first question. Not putting states in alpha-order is a rookie ‘s mistake.
Been using a Hyde painters tool with small shim for yrs removing trim with minimal damage not a very scientific process.
You can avoid home insurance if your house is paid off. That does come with its own risks though.
"Self Insured"
You smeared way too much caulking all over your wall.
Also, don't ever use caulk to fill in nail holes. Use wood filler. Caulking leaves a residue that you will never get rid of because you can't sand caulking.
Chalking job looks like crap