Recapping PVM CRT Consoles On The Cheap - Equipment - Soldering - De-soldering - How to Guide - Mod
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2022
- A quick video covering the cheap basic soldering and desoldering tools needed to recap boards for consoles, pvm's, and CRT's. Also sprinkled in some pointers and tips for beginners getting started. I also show the KSGER soldering station, and the Anesty ZD-915 - its design flaws, and how I modified the unit to fix those flaws.
I show some capacitor replacement and do alot of talking with bad audio lol...... Sorry, I recently had my computer/mic tore down to move things around and the audio was bad on this one and need to investigate.
Music by Zapsplat
KSGER Soldering Station -
www.banggood.com/V2_1S-T12-Di...
Soldering Tips Used in Video -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Solder -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Anesty de-soldering tool -
www.amazon.com/Digital-Desold...
New Model? de-soldering tool -
www.aliexpress.com/item/32568...
Hakko de-soldering tool -
www.amazon.com/American-HAKKO... - Ігри
Oh yeah! Good descriptions and personal explanations of tools and general maintenance procedures.
I use almost the exact same equipment. Good recommendations. 👍
Excellent recommendations. I started with a basic burn the house down iron as well. It served its purpose 😂
I would be great watching your "removal" process because after my first go on doing a recap of a 20" Sony Wega it was the removal process that was the most challenging. I found using a solder sucker first then braid wick but still the original bent over leads were problematic and sometimes I would have to get under the end of the lead to lift while applying some fresh solder to get it to lift from the pad. Sometimes I ended up tearing half of the circular PCB pad which always makes me cringe. After the first round I found that IF the cap was off the board high enough that snipping it from the component side was best because I could thin pull the straight lead out from the bottom.
Yeah, some can be real stubborn, if its a through hole component ive found its best to add fresh 60/40 solder like you mention and wiggling the component from below while sucking the solder out and keep wiggling it for a few seconds even after you remove the heat to try and keep it from resolidifying to the pads from residual solder still on the board.
If its a tiny amount of solder left over that keeps sticking the component to the board ive had success using my end cutters to carefully snip between the leg and the pad to free the component
@@LameGaming it's worth noting IMHO, just went through this entire process and that was the biggest PITA. Now sure how I would go about heating/reflowing/sucking AND pulling/wiggling from the component side unless I had an extra hand. Thanks for the reply.
awesome vid man thanks so much had been looking for a cheap desolder gun, already got a $100 hakko soldering tool so kinda salty i didn't check the usual suspect. definitely right on skipping the handheld desolder tube things, just takes lots of practice i guess but has me sweating trying not to overheat anything.
Thanks!
Yeah, i tried the plunger sucker desoldering deal a few times, I guess its like anything and can be mastered but I quickly got frustrated and ordered the amazon anesty setup.
I kind of wish I went with the newer one on aliexpress but didnt want to wait a month. Maybe Ill try one out and sell the old one.
Yeah, I wouldn't say the Hakko 301 is perfect... Having the vacuum pump in the handle makes it more compact, but it's a lot heavier than ones that have the separate vacuum pump. As you were saying in the video, yours sounds like it pulls a lot harder as well. Hakko's desoldering tips are also pretty expensive and the one it comes with is kind of small for a lot of things.
Thanks for your thoughts on it. I did some modifications to my cheap desoldering station and found some spare guns cheap so Ive been happy with it. Maybe ill try a hakko one day.
👊👊👊👊👍
i have a SONY PVM 1354Q... The image is great, but often times when I turn it on it starts with a high pitched sound and no image... But if i hit the unit a little from the side, then then it becomes quiet and the image shows up perfectly.. Of course i don't want to keep hitting the unit just to produce proper display image - what could be the most common issue in this case? Could this be caps too?
I never check my tip to see if it's buggered. After watching this I'm feeling a little self conscious about my tip.
I've been using the plunger and or braid and I hate it. Thanks for the tip on aunt nasty. I haven't been able to bring myself ti drop a couple hundred on a decapper but I need to do it. I have lifted so many pads.
Aunt nasty is a life saver 🤣
She a good sucker too 🤣🤣
I seen a used one on ebay for like $80.... Might be worth the risk?
Definatelyhavnt lifted any pads after getting her and the ksger but also I did too when using the cheapo and a plunger sucker.
@@LameGaming Thanks for the heads up. $80 is more my lifestyle
@@riggel8804 🤣 I hear you!
Thanks for making this, man. I've been cursing my solder suckers since I got em. Easier than using solder braid, but that's not saying much. Where do you get your caps from? I can't seem to figure out how to get what I want off of mouser/digikey, the page layouts are confusing(I'm trying to mux mod my KV-32S35 consumer set).
I use mouser but sometimes I cant find specific caps im looking for so have to turn to other sites or even an official nichicon dealer on ebay for crazy prices lol.
When you go to mouser there is a shit ton of options so it can be overwhelming, you have to use the filters to narrow it down...
Electrolytic capacitors> radial> leaded> then I put in my capacitance value and the voltage I need, If im replacing say a 100v cap I add 100v and 150v to the search results by selecting multiple options from that dropdown by holding shift I believe when Im clicking on the options I want..... Once you have all your filter options in, I further filter the results by selecting the same or higher temp rating, then finally I select to show only nichicon caps in the reults.
You will then usually just have a handfull of options, some standard, some high temp, some low esr.
This works with the majority of what your looking for, sometimes if I cant find a cap Ill add rubicon and panasonics to the list.
Hope that helps.
@@LameGaming Damn man that's so helpful. I've asked 4 people before you, and they didn't help me. After doing all of this I instantly found what I needed. Thanks so much!
@@digitalpalettemedia Thats awesome! I remember the first time I used the site...I was confused too and didnt even order that day because I was overwhelmed.
I'm in the process of ordering a cap kit for the first time for one of my CRTs and i have a question. When ordering caps from Mouser i noticed theres a filter option that says 'Series' does this matter at all? Example : UPW, UHE etc. Keep up the good work! Love your content! @Lame Gaming
Nichicon has lots of different series. Basically different models with different specs. Some may be low impedance, some high temp, some low esr.
I used to try to get all low esr or high temp caps but alot of the time certain ones are out of stock so it can really be a long job ordering a cap list.
For our purposes even the general uvz or whatever cheaper nichicons should be fine and better than what was put in 20-30 yrs ago.
I just make sure to pick 105c temp and look at the life hour ratings.
You can really trigger ocd and go crazy trying to pick all the right caps so I just pay attention to temp and life hours and get nichicons whenever possible and try not to think about it too much anymore lol
@@LameGaming Haha I see, thanks a lot man i really appreciate it! 👍
Dood I just recapped my 2600 Jr. With a $20 Soldering iron.
Yeah, I had to fix nephews dash cluster and used the cheapy, it just sucks because you have to constantly unplug it to keep the tip from burning up