Thanks for the heads up re the wall warts. As a qualified electrician I would advise, as you did, that if you use these to power up LED's and other items on the layout to calculate the current draw so as to not overload the wall wart (Transformer). Once they become overloaded ie use more Milliamps than its rating, it can overheat. Anything electrical that overheats is a potential fire hazard. The easiest way too calculate load is to use a multimeter in series to read the actual load or to multiply the Known load of a single device and multiply by the number of devices to be used.To be honest the advice given when taken with practical precautions is indeed good advice and if used safely then these wall marts are a cheap source of DC for your layout. Good Video, enjoyed it and subscribed.
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to discover ho train layouts try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great success with it.
hey ,if anyone else needs to find out about ho scale model trains try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher (just google it ) ? Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my mate got great results with it.
Great ideal Mike. I've always used and have a bunch of those old trainset transformers, but I didn't ever think about using the wall warts. I do know with using some of the old bachman like power packs they may not provide enough power to operate your acc. Recently I got one of them BLI operating Water towers for my HO layout and the Bachman transformer didn't have enough pwr. So I had a MRC 1300 I hooked it up and it works perfectly!
Man Mike,you always have some great info to tell us. I' m gonna need to buy some more stuff from you to pay for these tutorials you have on UA-cam.Thanks,Mike!
Mike, For our T-TRAK layouts we have found that running a DC power bus (just like the track bus) keeps us from having to keep up with a bunch of wall warts. We use one power source for the entire layout and tap into the bus any time we have a new building or sound card on the layout. Also have a friend that runs a 3.5V bus around for all his Miller Engineering signs. The bus technique works just as well for accessories as it does for track - much easier than running separate wall warts for each section of the layout. Also, with a single source, you can start with a wall wart and upgrade the source as you need more power.
Speaking about power supplies, I recently went to an estate sale & they had a box of junk on the front porch (stuff that they thought wasn't worth selling & was for free). In the box was a small DVD movie player. The kind people used, to keep the kids happy on a long car trip. I guess they couldn't find the power adapter for it, so it was classified as junk. I took it home & found out that the power adapter for my electric pencil sharpener was the same as they listed on the DVD player. Now I use the little DVD movie Player on my HO train layout, as a Drive-In Movie Theatre. I won't be throwing out these old 'Usless' adaptors any more.
When I saw that bin I cracked up - I do the exact same thing! I must have 1o or 15 of them - Hey - who knows - you might need to charge that Radio Shack walkie talkie one day!
While I was watching your Video, I rummaged through the bottom draw of my desk and found 3 old phone chargers giving 5 volts and one at 12 volts. I know I have a few more tucked away in my shed somewhere. Thank you for the tip. You made my day and my wallets day.Barry. Devon. UK
I have enjoyed watching this and knowing something I've been pondering would work. What everyone SHOULD do before cutting wires, is get a tester and cutting one wire at a time, testing whether it's positive or negative. On most plugs, the outside part of the plug is negative, and the hole in the middle is positive. Mark which is which to avoid a very bad situation. Otherwise, time to dig through my stash of wall-warts to find the right ones. I'm trying my hand at DCC, but don't want to convert my accessories such as lights, switches, signals and automatic crossings to DCC. I want to be able to use either DC or DCC on my layout. Yes, I exclusively use Kato Unitrack. This way, I can do my stuff without trying to rack my brain trying to program all them. I just bought an MRC Prodigy Express2 starter system. I have been very satisfied with MRC in the past, so I decided to stick with something I know. Anyway, keep up the great and very informative videos. I'd like to see a video on your layout. I enjoy seeing other videos of layouts, because it gives me a lot of ideas.
Hey Mike thanks for the video on the wall Power supply he can explain it any better I put is one of my favorites thanks again you're a good customer Skip from New York
Hi Mike, watching your video has help me in the past on my layout, we used ac on points know doubt can be used for other things too. Keep the video coming. Roy North Somerset UK
Can you show us some examples like how to hook them up? I'm new at this. I want to somehow run muti-color buss wires for a variety of accessories. This would be a fantastic way to power those buss lines.. but how? Thanks a million - love your channel!
Jeff, It would not be enough material for a video. To easy. Just 2 wires for each separate set of accessories. that you want to run, then select a power supply of the correct voltage , connect the 2 wires and off you go. Thanks , Mike
Good reminder Mike. I re-use wall worts to power old battery powered units too, just remove the batteries and hook up the wires to the appropriate terminals. No more buying batteries and no more losing power as they wear down.
Mike, I use Kato unitrack on my n-scale layout. Even though I run the trains with an NCE Power Cab, I use one of the Kato power pack to power all of the turnouts on my layout. Works very well and is readily compatible with the remainder of the Kato wiring connections.
Great video Mike, glad I found your "How To' channel. I am wiring for 40 Kato Unitrack N turnouts on my new layout, and I have an old laptop power supply rated "Output: DC 14V 3A, 42Watt Max rated power" according to the imprint on it. Will this be too much current (I'm using momentary toggle switches for activation) ?
Not shur how long your ac bus wire length should bee or short length or dose each ac bus wire be powered separately. Would you know what I'm doing wrong here . Let me know thank you .
For a small to medium layout wall warts provide a low cost & simple solution to powering accessories. I have a number of wall warts I've acquired over the years among my old computer parts. I am helping a friend rebuild his N scale 6 x 9 layout. Wall warts are the perfect solution to his needs. For medium to large layouts, especially those with a lot of accessories, I would suggest checking into using an ATX computer power supply. While not as numerous as wall warts, they are readily available and at reasonable prices. Yes, adapting the computer power supply requires a little more electrical skill but there are a number of how to videos & articles covering this subject.
A very nice video. I've purchased four traffic lights for my HO scale layout, along with a 16 Volt A/C adapter (or "wall wart") to power them (the instructions on the box say to connect the wires to an A/C power pack). My question, though, is as follows: Provided I strip enough wire on the A/C adapter so that no two wires from different accessories/lights are contacting each other, could I simply attach the wires from the traffic lights to those on the A/C adapter at different points? I apologies if this is a Model Railroad Wiring 101-type question.
Okay I have a question I have a LGB black widow and I just got a beautiful train bridge that hooks up to a power transformer to run the train while it’s stationary so I can display the train but the bridge was was built for a big boy, so how can I put the engine on the Dyno or free wheel part of the bridge and still run power to the engine? If this makes since? I don’t know if there’s a way to hook up wire to the connectors of the engine and also the bridge already has wires built into it but like I say it was made for a big boy and not my black widow. Love your videos and they help out even if someone like me is an avid model railroader except this I’ve never dealt with but wanted to display my first ever train my grandfather gave me :). Help would be appreciated.
Hi Mike, I would like one power supply that would run my 9 Atlas switches and my platform LED lighting. Would a wall wart do this trick or should I look for something more regulated?
Great video Mike. I've suspected that those wall warts could be used for something on my railroad. I have a question for you about my old Troller transformers with momentum. Since I have an abundance of these dinosaurs and won't be running trains off of them, could I hook lights to the DC track power terminals with the momentum switched on and turn the control knob up to, lets say 3/4 throttle, and have the momentum slowly bring the lights up just as a loco would come up to speed? Thanks.
+Mike Corwin Simple DC is really too basic to do a video on but try this. fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=13039 Thanks , Mike
Make sure you.put a 12 volt fuse holder and the correct voltage fuse on those , you never know if it does not throw your house breaker you will have a direct short that can cause a fire.
Mike! I recently just bought a lot of N scale tracks. I got a box of them cheap and since then I have wanted to start getting more into the hobby. I Have since bought a power pack and cars and a few locomotives. My problem being is that I'm not sure if I can hook up the atlas track I have (Atlas 2501, 2510 and so on - not ez track) to the bachmann power supply I now have. Are they compatible and if so how do I go about hooking them up? I have the red cord that plugs into the speed controller and going to the track but I don't have a piece of track that it would plug into like in most videos I have watched. Do I have to order a new rerailer? I don't have the rerailer that has the plug for the red wire. The power hook ups that came with the lot I bought are an older wire in style. I'm not sure where to go from here and how to get more information on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
+TheMasda They will work together but you will need at least one of these to get to the track and you need to do LOTS of reading on starting into model trains. fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=11684 Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer Thank you for your reply mike that was very fast I appreciate it. I know I have a lot to learn and I plan to read into it as much as I can. The rail joiner you recommended getting how will that attach to the speed controller I have? It's just the the plane Bachmann item # 46605A. It has what looks like a 6.35mm headphone jack plug and then the accessories 16V AC connectors. I have the red wire that plugs into the headphone jack that says to track and it has the end that would plug into an ez track terminal. I just have the snap track So I didnt know if there was a way to connect the red cable to the track I have now without using an ez track piece. Do I use the rail joiner piece you linked and use the accessories 16V AC spots instead? I'm just trying to get a very small circle powered so I can test and see if any of the parts work at all then I can go from there and either get a diff controller or diff track or the like. I just got to messing with what I came by chance and was fascinated by it and wanted to get into it and learn more. I will start watching more of your videos and do some more reading on how everything works and learn more as I got but I really appreciate the guidance and help!
+TheMasda I am not familiar with the Bachmann but you need to do whatever is necessary to get the two wires from the pack to the two rails. Cut the wires and twist them or whatever you need to do. Most power packs do not have a plug but rather screw terminals to attach the wires to. Thanks , Mike
You need to do a google search on powering LED's , but yes you would obviously have to cut the end off and splice the wires and use the appropriate voltage. Thanks , Mike
I have a bachmann dynamis dcc system but it doesn't have enough power for my track is there a alternative to this issue that won't cost me a few hundred bucks ? Thankyou hope to here back .
With a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply, if you cut off the DC plug and expose the bare wires, would you get a major ZAP/JOLT when you touched those bare wires? How about an AC to DC 12VDC / 5A DC power supply? I am just trying to fully comprehend how AMPERAGE impacts getting a ZAP/JOLT from their bare wires. MANY THANKS!
That is wonderful to know. Thank you! I want to buy a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply to power a lot of LED lights on the train layout and to power a few hand-made electromagnets (those simple ones where you wrap copper wire around a threaded bolt and connect both leads to a power source) to trigger some other objects. I was concerned about the exposed copper wire on these simple electromagnets and whether they would be dangerous (give me a shock!). You have said NO, and that is a big relief. Thank you, again!!!
I could help what is purpose use AC/DC use 220v to 12v can be connect slot track but had problem use power pack require an step down transfer only I’m in the Philippines
I have a 6-12867 77watt 3amp control with separate transformer Power wire to track is internal to controller no lugs?. Looking for owners manual Thank Al hope you can help
nice video mike. You can make a model train commercial for your club. You could make adds for more people to sing up for you n scale club. You make best video in the world. If you make a model railroad commercial on Tv or adds your channel will come popular and famous. By the n and scale club.
Gathering all my power supplies yo to see what I have. being an ex Computer man I have also some computer power supplies too. Have to check them out though.
can anyone tell me why a diesel engine I bought works perfect on one layout and grinds on my big layout and takes more power to move. it sounds like it's dragging. n scale.
The layout it works great on has a small transformer and the big layout has an mrc ii dc . It grinds loudly. It has traction tires. I bought it for the big layout to pull my rapido lighted passenger cars. I can add a video if you like
Check to make sure you got no shorts. Use voltmeter to see if your power supply is in fact not faulty. Also it might drag slow, because the long track create resistance at the other side of layout. Good rule fo thumb to add extra power supply wires to furthest side.
Cdu need 16 volt to run 67 peco switch machines with cdu need 16 volts the pco turn table needs 12 volts breakout board volt regulator. But no power geting to the line . Strange so I'm not shur why the power is not geting to the line. Witch is connected to a terminal bar with has 2 other lines witch are 6 feet long on the bottom layout 33 foot li e is for the upper layout. But no power. The wall plug in 24 volt power supply can be changed from 3 volts to 24 volts is lite up so it has power but not geting to the bus line from the power source. O.k not shur why .
Thanks for the heads up re the wall warts. As a qualified electrician I would advise, as you did, that if you use these to power up LED's and other items on the layout to calculate the current draw so as to not overload the wall wart (Transformer). Once they become overloaded ie use more Milliamps than its rating, it can overheat. Anything electrical that overheats is a potential fire hazard. The easiest way too calculate load is to use a multimeter in series to read the actual load or to multiply the Known load of a single device and multiply by the number of devices to be used.To be honest the advice given when taken with practical precautions is indeed good advice and if used safely then these wall marts are a cheap source of DC for your layout. Good Video, enjoyed it and subscribed.
+TheNWPerry Thanks Brother , Glad to have you and great advice.
Mike
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to discover ho train layouts try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great success with it.
hey ,if anyone else needs to find out about ho scale model trains try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher (just google it ) ? Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my mate got great results with it.
Great post. I have so many of these things around.
Thanks so much Jay !!
Great ideal Mike. I've always used and have a bunch of those old trainset transformers, but I didn't ever think about using the wall warts. I do know with using some of the old bachman like power packs they may not provide enough power to operate your acc. Recently I got one of them BLI operating Water towers for my HO layout and the Bachman transformer didn't have enough pwr. So I had a MRC 1300 I hooked it up and it works perfectly!
+sdyoung That sounds good Steve . You need to do a Vid on the water tower.
Mike
Man Mike,you always have some great info to tell us. I' m gonna need to buy some more stuff from you to pay for these tutorials you have on UA-cam.Thanks,Mike!
Mike, For our T-TRAK layouts we have found that running a DC power bus (just like the track bus) keeps us from having to keep up with a bunch of wall warts. We use one power source for the entire layout and tap into the bus any time we have a new building or sound card on the layout. Also have a friend that runs a 3.5V bus around for all his Miller Engineering signs. The bus technique works just as well for accessories as it does for track - much easier than running separate wall warts for each section of the layout. Also, with a single source, you can start with a wall wart and upgrade the source as you need more power.
+Terry Nathan I agree, and that is how I would do it but some folks have features that require different voltages.
Thanks Terry , Mike
Speaking about power supplies, I recently went to an estate sale & they had a box of junk on the front porch (stuff that they thought wasn't worth selling & was for free). In the box was a small DVD movie player. The kind people used, to keep the kids happy on a long car trip. I guess they couldn't find the power adapter for it, so it was classified as junk. I took it home & found out that the power adapter for my electric pencil sharpener was the same as they listed on the DVD player. Now I use the little DVD movie Player on my HO train layout, as a Drive-In Movie Theatre. I won't be throwing out these old 'Usless' adaptors any more.
Thanks for the story and you just never know, Right?
Mike
When I saw that bin I cracked up - I do the exact same thing! I must have 1o or 15 of them - Hey - who knows - you might need to charge that Radio Shack walkie talkie one day!
While I was watching your Video, I rummaged through the bottom draw of my desk and found 3 old phone chargers giving 5 volts and one at 12 volts. I know I have a few more tucked away in my shed somewhere. Thank you for the tip. You made my day and my wallets day.Barry. Devon. UK
Thanks , Mike
Good presentation. Always kept old power supplies (I can never throw away things that still work). Now I know why I kept them.
Murray Thompson
+retired2007 Thanks Murray, Mike
Great video Mike. I was wondering about that very subject yesterday! Your advice is going to save me some money!
Keith from the UK
Thanks Keith and glad to help.
Mike
Thanks for this video! You're a money saving hero.
Thanks so much.
Mike
Great tip Mike. Another great power source is a computer power supply. Will gibe you 12 and 5v power well beyond needs of layout.
I have enjoyed watching this and knowing something I've been pondering would work. What everyone SHOULD do before cutting wires, is get a tester and cutting one wire at a time, testing whether it's positive or negative. On most plugs, the outside part of the plug is negative, and the hole in the middle is positive. Mark which is which to avoid a very bad situation. Otherwise, time to dig through my stash of wall-warts to find the right ones. I'm trying my hand at DCC, but don't want to convert my accessories such as lights, switches, signals and automatic crossings to DCC. I want to be able to use either DC or DCC on my layout. Yes, I exclusively use Kato Unitrack. This way, I can do my stuff without trying to rack my brain trying to program all them. I just bought an MRC Prodigy Express2 starter system. I have been very satisfied with MRC in the past, so I decided to stick with something I know. Anyway, keep up the great and very informative videos. I'd like to see a video on your layout. I enjoy seeing other videos of layouts, because it gives me a lot of ideas.
Thanks so much Wayne.
Mike
thank you so much your are always so helpful you are a great help to me with your helpful ideas
Thanks William !!
Hey Mike thanks for the video on the wall Power supply he can explain it any better I put is one of my favorites thanks again you're a good customer Skip from New York
+Skip Sterger Thanks Skip in New York !!! Hope you are staying warm !!!
Mike
Hi Mike, watching your video has help me in the past on my layout, we used ac on points know doubt can be used for other things too. Keep the video coming. Roy North Somerset UK
Thanks so much Roy , Glad to help.
Mike
Can you show us some examples like how to hook them up? I'm new at this. I want to somehow run muti-color buss wires for a variety of accessories. This would be a fantastic way to power those buss lines.. but how? Thanks a million - love your channel!
Jeff, It would not be enough material for a video. To easy.
Just 2 wires for each separate set of accessories. that you want to run, then select a power supply of the correct voltage , connect the 2 wires and off you go.
Thanks , Mike
Good reminder Mike. I re-use wall worts to power old battery powered units too, just remove the batteries and hook up the wires to the appropriate terminals. No more buying batteries and no more losing power as they wear down.
+The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Good idea George , Mike
Mike, I use Kato unitrack on my n-scale layout. Even though I run the trains with an NCE Power Cab, I use one of the Kato power pack to power all of the turnouts on my layout. Works very well and is readily compatible with the remainder of the Kato wiring connections.
+Roger G. Perkins That sure will work well. Thanks Roger , Mike
Great video Mike, glad I found your "How To' channel. I am wiring for 40 Kato Unitrack N turnouts on my new layout, and I have an old laptop power supply rated "Output: DC 14V 3A, 42Watt Max rated power" according to the imprint on it. Will this be too much current (I'm using momentary toggle switches for activation) ?
It should be fine. The key word is momentary.
Thanks , Mike
great tip on the adapters
Thanks Ted, Mike
Not shur how long your ac bus wire length should bee or short length or dose each ac bus wire be powered separately. Would you know what I'm doing wrong here . Let me know thank you .
For a small to medium layout wall warts provide a low cost & simple solution to powering accessories. I have a number of wall warts I've acquired over the years among my old computer parts. I am helping a friend rebuild his N scale 6 x 9 layout. Wall warts are the perfect solution to his needs.
For medium to large layouts, especially those with a lot of accessories, I would suggest checking into using an ATX computer power supply. While not as numerous as wall warts, they are readily available and at reasonable prices. Yes, adapting the computer power supply requires a little more electrical skill but there are a number of how to videos & articles covering this subject.
+Kenneth Hoffman Thanks , Mike
A very nice video. I've purchased four traffic lights for my HO scale layout, along with a 16 Volt A/C adapter (or "wall wart") to power them (the instructions on the box say to connect the wires to an A/C power pack). My question, though, is as follows: Provided I strip enough wire on the A/C adapter so that no two wires from different accessories/lights are contacting each other, could I simply attach the wires from the traffic lights to those on the A/C adapter at different points? I apologies if this is a Model Railroad Wiring 101-type question.
I suppose you can.
Thanks , Mike
@@N-Scale OK, thank you for letting me know :).
your video on phone chargers for power is great,Tom smith
+Delores Smith Thanks so much Tom , Hope it was useful.
Mike
Good information, I’m a bit away from lighting my layout, but have given this conversation a bit of thought!!
Thanks Roger, Glad to help !!!
Excellent very informative well done.
Okay I have a question I have a LGB black widow and I just got a beautiful train bridge that hooks up to a power transformer to run the train while it’s stationary so I can display the train but the bridge was was built for a big boy, so how can I put the engine on the Dyno or free wheel part of the bridge and still run power to the engine? If this makes since? I don’t know if there’s a way to hook up wire to the connectors of the engine and also the bridge already has wires built into it but like I say it was made for a big boy and not my black widow. Love your videos and they help out even if someone like me is an avid model railroader except this I’ve never dealt with but wanted to display my first ever train my grandfather gave me :). Help would be appreciated.
I have no idea how to do anything with LGB stuff.
Sorry , Mike
Mike Fifer it’s okay
Great idea, I never thought of using old transformers.
Thanks Matt.
Mike
hi Mike.. great video.. I've been using those for quit a long time .. they work great.. vinny
+bnsf6951 Thanks Vinny , Mike
Hi Mike, I would like one power supply that would run my 9 Atlas switches and my platform LED lighting. Would a wall wart do this trick or should I look for something more regulated?
You should be able to use a wall wart with a sufficient output for sure.
Mike
Great video Mike. I've suspected that those wall warts could be used for something on my railroad. I have a question for you about my old Troller transformers with momentum. Since I have an abundance of these dinosaurs and won't be running trains off of them, could I hook lights to the DC track power terminals with the momentum switched on and turn the control knob up to, lets say 3/4 throttle, and have the momentum slowly bring the lights up just as a loco would come up to speed? Thanks.
I would think so.
Mike
Do you have a video on basic wiring of Kato track for DC? I find all kinds of DCC stuff but very little on DC.
+Mike Corwin Simple DC is really too basic to do a video on but try this.
fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=13039
Thanks , Mike
Make sure you.put a 12 volt fuse holder and the correct voltage fuse on those , you never know if it does not throw your house breaker you will have a direct short that can cause a fire.
OK so what if I have 15 3v 20ma LEDs what transformer could I use? I have a bin of power supplies like Mike.
Mike! I recently just bought a lot of N scale tracks. I got a box of them cheap and since then I have wanted to start getting more into the hobby. I Have since bought a power pack and cars and a few locomotives. My problem being is that I'm not sure if I can hook up the atlas track I have (Atlas 2501, 2510 and so on - not ez track) to the bachmann power supply I now have. Are they compatible and if so how do I go about hooking them up? I have the red cord that plugs into the speed controller and going to the track but I don't have a piece of track that it would plug into like in most videos I have watched. Do I have to order a new rerailer? I don't have the rerailer that has the plug for the red wire. The power hook ups that came with the lot I bought are an older wire in style. I'm not sure where to go from here and how to get more information on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
+TheMasda They will work together but you will need at least one of these to get to the track and you need to do LOTS of reading on starting into model trains.
fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=11684
Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer Thank you for your reply mike that was very fast I appreciate it. I know I have a lot to learn and I plan to read into it as much as I can. The rail joiner you recommended getting how will that attach to the speed controller I have? It's just the the plane Bachmann item # 46605A. It has what looks like a 6.35mm headphone jack plug and then the accessories 16V AC connectors. I have the red wire that plugs into the headphone jack that says to track and it has the end that would plug into an ez track terminal. I just have the snap track So I didnt know if there was a way to connect the red cable to the track I have now without using an ez track piece. Do I use the rail joiner piece you linked and use the accessories 16V AC spots instead? I'm just trying to get a very small circle powered so I can test and see if any of the parts work at all then I can go from there and either get a diff controller or diff track or the like. I just got to messing with what I came by chance and was fascinated by it and wanted to get into it and learn more. I will start watching more of your videos and do some more reading on how everything works and learn more as I got but I really appreciate the guidance and help!
+TheMasda I am not familiar with the Bachmann but you need to do whatever is necessary to get the two wires from the pack to the two rails. Cut the wires and twist them or whatever you need to do. Most power packs do not have a plug but rather screw terminals to attach the wires to.
Thanks , Mike
So how do i hook up some led lights to them? Do i cut the barrel end off then splice it to the leds? Litttle help please!!
You need to do a google search on powering LED's , but yes you would obviously have to cut the end off and splice the wires and use the appropriate voltage.
Thanks , Mike
@@N-Scale Thanks
I have a bachmann dynamis dcc system but it doesn't have enough power for my track is there a alternative to this issue that won't cost me a few hundred bucks ? Thankyou hope to here back .
You may be able to use some manufacturers Booster to gain some more power.
@@N-Scale thank you for the reply I appreciate it what booster would you recommend mike ?
@@aaamodeltrainsandplanes3774 I have never used a booster so I would not know but it will likely cost you as much as a new and better system.
With a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply, if you cut off the DC plug and expose the bare wires, would you get a major ZAP/JOLT when you touched those bare wires? How about an AC to DC 12VDC / 5A DC power supply? I am just trying to fully comprehend how AMPERAGE impacts getting a ZAP/JOLT from their bare wires. MANY THANKS!
I am no electrician but I have never experiance that with low voltage DC
Just to confirm. You're saying that you have touched 12V / 10A bare DC wire without a ZAP/JOLT?
@@Tnapvrvideo Yes
That is wonderful to know. Thank you! I want to buy a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply to power a lot of LED lights on the train layout and to power a few hand-made electromagnets (those simple ones where you wrap copper wire around a threaded bolt and connect both leads to a power source) to trigger some other objects. I was concerned about the exposed copper wire on these simple electromagnets and whether they would be dangerous (give me a shock!). You have said NO, and that is a big relief. Thank you, again!!!
I use one of them old transformers to run my alarm system on my garage works great
They have many uses.
Mike
thanks for this video....
Thank you
I could help what is purpose use AC/DC use 220v to 12v can be connect slot track but had problem use power pack require an step down transfer only I’m in the Philippines
Supplies from old laptops can provide a lot of current. Just don't electrocute yourself with it.
True !!
I have a 6-12867 77watt 3amp control with separate transformer
Power wire to track is internal to controller no lugs?. Looking for owners manual
Thank Al hope you can help
I have no idea what that is but I do not have any manuals.
Thanks , Mike
THANK YOU...for sharing.
+ELSDP-45 You are more than welcome.
Mike
This is why I keep a giant box power supplies, wires etc that everyone throws in the garbage
My point exactly Ken.
Thanks , Mike
i have several old Bachmann power packs that still work and i use
+Sandra J. Syx-Spears Oh yes and they seem to be everywhere.
Mike
Hi Mike, such a simple idea! Great!
+SoRTs6233 Thanks , I get many calls wanting to know what to use to power accessories.
Thanks , Mike
Do you use a terminal block?
I do not.
Thanks , Mike
Can you use these power supplies for switches
Yes you can.
Mike
I can find old cheep power pacs like at a train show. Or Amazon or Ebay thats what i did . 5 bucks
is there a way to connect bachmann ez track to kato unitrack
I suppose one could but why?
Thanks , Mike
nice video mike. You can make a model train commercial for your club. You could make adds for more people to sing up for you n scale club. You make best video in the world. If you make a model railroad commercial on Tv or adds your channel will come popular and famous. By the n and scale club.
+the n and O scale club Thanks , Mike
your welcome
Gathering all my power supplies yo to see what I have. being an ex Computer man I have also some computer power supplies too. Have to check them out though.
+Colin Mansell You should find something to use!
Mike
can anyone tell me why a diesel engine I bought works perfect on one layout and grinds on my big layout and takes more power to move. it sounds like it's dragging. n scale.
This would require much more information to try and diagnose. There is no logical reason unless something happened between the two layouts.
Mike
The layout it works great on has a small transformer and the big layout has an mrc ii dc . It grinds loudly. It has traction tires. I bought it for the big layout to pull my rapido lighted passenger cars. I can add a video if you like
Check to make sure you got no shorts. Use voltmeter to see if your power supply is in fact not faulty.
Also it might drag slow, because the long track create resistance at the other side of layout. Good rule fo thumb to add extra power supply wires to furthest side.
Thanks Mike
Thanks for looking Ron.
Mike
Cdu need 16 volt to run 67 peco switch machines with cdu need 16 volts the pco turn table needs 12 volts breakout board volt regulator. But no power geting to the line . Strange so I'm not shur why the power is not geting to the line. Witch is connected to a terminal bar with has 2 other lines witch are 6 feet long on the bottom layout 33 foot li e is for the upper layout. But no power. The wall plug in 24 volt power supply can be changed from 3 volts to 24 volts is lite up so it has power but not geting to the bus line from the power source. O.k not shur why .
So I can use my old transformers to run my old atlas switches while running DCC to my track.
Correct.
Mike
And my wife laughs when I tell her I can use something for some other project.Now who's laughing!!
+Tim Danby I would not use HER cell phone charger!!!
LOL
Mike
I tried once.The couch wasn't bad for the first two nights.
33 foot long exssories bus wire 16 volt ac/DC
try using a computer power pack