Dodge Caravan electrical problems SOLVED
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2023
- 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan electrical problems including ESP/BAS light and brake fault lights on dash, OBD Code for bad Antilock Brake Module, stalling while driving, rough idle, not starting...thought I had a bad starter, bad ABS electronics, bad Wireless Ignition Module (WIN)...making me crazy, was even considering buying another vehicle after looking at some of the repair costs...nope, turns out all these problems were solved in ten minutes for $16. If you're a Dodge Caravan/Town and Country owner you need to do this fix, even if you're not having any problems, so they don't develop later and leave you stranded somewhere.
@2:04 I meant to say 'motor to chassis ground', not 'chassis to ground'. - Авто та транспорт
I'm having this same exact problem. I'm going home to night to fix this, it has gone on long enough. Twice the van cut out in traffic with everything going crazy. Luckily i got it over to the side of the road removed battery cable waited 15 minute reattached and was able to drive home. Crazy they never fixed this issue. I have a 2011. Thanks for the vid.
Great tip. When I have weird electrical problems check for grounds going back to my 63 Belvedere with a weak left signal. In searching Walmart they show a two foot ground strap but there's no price and says it out if stock. Dorman has a flex ground cable that you can get at autozone for eight bucks and Rick auto has it for $3.35 plus shipping. Pn at rock auto is 85669 and at AutoZone the number is 60213. The rockauto strap says it's 15inches long AutoZone doesn't list the length. Hope that helps.
Happy Motoring.
Bro could you please link me the wiring you used from
Walmart thanks a bunch
That starter to switch cable may not survive that high heat builds in summer under the hood so I would high heat cable from some vehicle from junkyard. Last thing I want to see in June/July that my hood smells like burning plastic and when open hood, that walmart-cable look like roasted noodle with smoke coming out. Under hood, in summer, tempreature around engine area reaches 150-160 degrees celcius. Overall idea is good but right high-heat cable should be used.
It's a thick enough gauge to handle the amp draw, even thicker than the battery cable that has lasted all these years so it will be just fine.
I'm going to try this. I don't see any comments on here. How is everything now? I see this was made 2 months ago. My starter went and for some reason after I wacked it with my hammer my vans electrical went nuts. My power windows quit working my radio wouldn't shut off and was spitting the CD in and out of the player my dash lights started going off and on, like it's possessed by a Dodge demon. I've been told it could also be the ignition switch?? I checked all of the fuses and the wires to the box and there is no corrosion at all.
Still running great, dash lights have not returned, no electrical problems at all. Disconnect your battery and clean up those battery cables at both ends, I would also recommend taking the cables off the starter and cleaning them up with a wire brush, also clean where they connect on the starter.
@@jh8338 I ended up replacing my starter and did and all of those things and still have one issue left. After the vehicle has been running for almost exactly 20 minutes, my back light for my temperature gauge goes out. I really do not feel like going through the process of removing the gauge cluster only to not find anything visibility wrong. But it is quite annoying.