This no start, no crank intermittent start had me puzzled for days. Here's what I did to fix it... 00:15 The Problem 01:03 The Fix 03:15 TOOLS: • Philips Screwdriver - amzn.to/3hdpzx0 • 220 grit sandpaper - amzn.to/3y1lyRU • 10mm socket - battery - basic set: amzn.to/3fjRoBd • 13mm socket - batter nut latch - basic set: amzn.to/3fjRoBd • Ratchet - basic set: amzn.to/3xWjE5g • 6in extension to get to battery nut latck - amzn.to/3uwhLKx • Pick (optional) - amzn.to/3nZM8q4 • Magnetic Metal Tray - amzn.to/3hdUiJZ • Multimeter (optional) - check fuses - amzn.to/3o1T5qw 15:05 Test to make sure it worked This video should work on Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town and Country for Generation 4 for the years of 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007. It should be very similar for years before and after this. Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information in the video, post, blog, or social media. MC FIX IT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable at any time. Stop and go to a professional. MC FIX IT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your house, or any other project and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MC FIX IT. #mcfixit #autorepair #fix #repair #nostart #nocrank #intermittentstart #batterycable
@@expectatussle Hello! Thanks for writing. I did go through all I have done to date before I fixed the issue. I could have made about 6-10 videos on all of that without really solving the problem, but I didn't (that's what a lot of others do). Often "no starts" are difficult to determine the root cause and take trial and error as you determine what is really happening. That's why you have to pay hundreds for them at service stations, because they just start fixing everything until they get lucky and solve the issue. Most don't really run any tests they just replace parts and you get stuck. By 3:30 I'm diving into the fix with already discussed all of the prior attempts to fix this issue and a full list of tools and everything to get the project done. Not sure what you mean by rambling for 15 mins without doing anything is all about. I personallyhate starting a project and not knowing I'm going to need a 6in extension to get out a bolt on the bottom of your battery tray, which I did when recording this video. Then have to run back and forth to a toobox. So yeah, I did go through a lot of material which is helpful in diagnoising this sort of problem and fixing it right instead of having to guess along the way. This sort of a fix is much more complicated thing than let's say an oil change on a vehicle which one could do a short without any real discussion or teaching. I'm sorry you are displeased with how I run my channel obviously a few people have found it helpful as you read through the comments, over 54.6k views, and see over 800 likes in under a year. And no, I don't ask for payment or any kind of subscription and never plan too. I am grateful for UA-cam and the ability to learn and teach others many great things. And yes, I do add some links (a total of NINE which are all tools for this specific project) to assist people. And yes, I do get a little kickback from Amazon like 1-3% for hours of work recording, editing, and replying on UA-cam. Use the links or dont that's totally up to you! And I'm sure tiktoks and other shorts are helpful for lots of things but probably not a problem like this. I hope you are able to figure out your no start and you have a good day.
@@expectatussle LOL You evidently didn’t watch the video to the end. The main power connector under the main fuse box was corroded. He took apart the connector, used sand paper to clean the corrosion off, put it back together, he accidentally put it in upside down and had to take it apart again and put it in correctly, finished putting everything back where it needed to be. The van started first try and he put a green check mark on the screen indicating that was the fix!!! I greatly appreciate the fact he pointed out his mistake and corrected it in the video. He’s a true MAN!!! Thanks for an awesome tutorial MC FIX IT!!! I can do this myself!! I have some work to do on my van. The gauges are intermittently going crazy with the dashboard lights and radio going on and off. That could be a ground wire or Auto Shutdown Relay. *fingers crossed* My van just started with the “I don’t want to start” crap. I’m definitely going to check that connector!! Thank you very much again!!! 🥰❤️ I just found your channel and subscribed too!! 🥰❤️
Those intermittent problems with dodges are so hard to figure out,,, I’ve wasted so much money trying to resolve problems just like this! Great job on figuring it out and sharing it with others!
Thanks! I appreciate that you showed us your “fail” where you plugged the cable in upside down into the connector. It makes me know I’m not the only one who does that. Great fix!
Glad it helped! Often the fails are how we learn to do it better the next time. I feel like I failed on many different elements of this fix bc of the number of things I worked on to get it working correctly!
That's one of the "ghost problems " that we get on some used cars. I bought a 2015 grand caravan 3 months ago and it has failed me starting right away and once didn't started at all. Tow truck came and it made look stupid by starting first attempt. I had them tow it to the mechanic to find out what was wrong but nothing showed on scanners. Yesterday it didn't start until I tried a bunch of times until worked. Thank you for this video, it makes so much sense . Glen
Yes, these are problems that many years of this vehicle have. They are difficult to figure out the root cause and can sometimes just work without an issue then it comes back (even a day later)
Fantastic!! I had same problem, starts when it wants to… knew something getting hot at the starter relay , runs great after starting, when turn off, won’t start again for few hours, after cool down , it will start. I will certainly pull the fuse box to make sure. Thank you so much!! This is a mind boggling diagnostic and spent many hours figuring this out.
Best of luck on your Caravan. That is about 2 or maybe 3 generations of newer of the model, so things can change drastically between generations. But I hope the diagnosis work on this will help identify your problem. Have a great day!
Great video. My issue ended up being the ignition switch but I still cleaned the grounds, cables and pulled the positive wire from the fuse box . Great job
My dude back at it! Fantastic video and instructions! I hate all intermittent problems. So hard to diagnosis bc one day it work and the next you have issues. Good job doing the hard work and figuring out exactly what your problem is!
And thanks to his wife for the extra help to allow him to be in the engine bay when trying to start it. A second person is often really helpful when diagnosing issues in cars
YES!!! This is the video that solved my random no start issue. I never had to crank it 20-30 times like he idd, but man this solved it. You saved big $$$$! I appreciate your and now I'm hooked on your videos. You are getting a subscribe from me!
I've been chasing an intermittent no-crank/fire on my mother's '09 Caravan. I am hoping this will remedy the problem because I'm one fuse short of lighting the entire thing on fire (not really)... Thank you for this video, fingers crossed I can reply back that THIS fixed it. If not, at least it helped me eliminate something. Thank you for the immensely thorough video.
I had a similar issue but my was on the negative battery cable where it attached to the engine. It was corroded like crazy. This helped me think through all the of the cables and eventually solve my problem. Thank you!
Man, oh man, is this a fine video. I watched the entire thing twice and went to it. I was so hopeful that this would solve my "no crank, no start" situation with my 2003 Town and Country. Mine was pretty clean inside so no solution here but I can at least check it off of my list as I try to solve the problem. My next step is replacing the ignition switch as that is the way it is looking right now. I am waiting for a T10 "security" bit to arrive to aide in removing the existing switch body.
@@jameswhitney8820 It wound up being my computer but I am up and running again. I got a great deal on the computer from a firm in Florida. Fast, came programmed...true plug and play.
This is a great help. A friend's issue is absolutely no electrical power anywhere. It's got a solid charged battery & I've tested everything I could think of. I thought about this but didn't want to pry too hard on what looked to me like a trap to break something. His wife tried to start it & it made one (just one) loud click. Then it's like someone stole the battery. This puts my mind at ease moving forward in this direction. Thanks.
I’ve had this issue before and ended up trading the vehicle in bc I was so sick of throwing money into it. I changed out the battery, started, ignition switch, another starter, and then I was done. I wish I would have seen this video bc with just a few tools and some time I could have saved that vehicle.
Yeah, it's been a few weeks of being frustrated that I finally figured it out. I was so tired of starting and starting and starting the vehicle to get it to work.
Thanks very much!! I've been dealing with this exact problem for more than a year! I knew it had something to do with the positive cable because I figured out that if I jiggled the wires, it usually starts. The problem has progressively got worse over the last several month. I'm gonna try this tomorrow!! Wish me luck!! 😁
Mine had a no start and I had just changed out the ac blower motor. I finally after trying about everything flipped my box over like in your video. The contacts didn't look too bad and I never got the wire out of the socket so I just plugged it back in. It starts now so your video was a big help. Guess it just wasn't making good contact.
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try this on my daughter's van when she gets home today. She has to crank 20 to 30 times like you did before the fix. It says done on the dash too.
That "done" is the onboard diagnostics reader. You can check for codes by turning the key on off 3 times....then leaving the key on on third time. Any trouble codes will read there in the odometer window. Once all of the codes flash there, "done" tells you that the end of them.
Not sure if it's been mentioned but the "DONE" is the Chrysler/Dodge code cyle. If you turn the key 3 times back and forth it will read and give you the "P" codes.
Great video. Thanks for putting this together. You really helped get me back on the road with just about an our worth of work and a few tools. My battery cable was much more corroded than yours, but that was my issue too. Thanks again!
Thank you for this video my same van is an 07 that's the first thing I checked and it fixed it it started up Took a second to reset I guess Cause at 1st it would do nothing for me then the wife started it up no problem thanks for this video very much appreciated and good detail on removing everything
Exact same issue with my 2005 Caravan. Lots of tries before it starts, worse in colder (or drier) weather. “done” code. You are the first afaik to find a solution. I wonder though if there is some uncertainty principle to consider, as in the more old untouched wires and connectors you jiggle, the less you know about exactly which one was the problem. I say this because when you first disturbed the box and wifey started it, whatever changed may have been unlikely to quickly/certainly revert back to the original problem state, and thus obscure further analysis. I haven’t gotten my hands on the fuse/relay box yet to see if I can reproduce your success, but when I do, I would like to look at the circuit diagrams and see if are any other links in the starting sequence that pass through there, and even outside the box, in nearby splices etc. In any case, I think you have saved a lot of time and staved off much curses and frustration for many. Thanks
It was a bit of a lucky solution after lots of work. I'm glad it happened that way so it would be fixed and be able to be used a daily driver again! Crazy how that happens sometimes, but you could be further downstream as well. Good luck on your project! I hope it is an easy fix for you!
That was so helpful!! I'm puzzled at the moment with my 2003 Chrysler Town and country van. It's doing the exact thing. We just exchanged our old battery today for a new one and that wasn't the issue. The next step is relay switch or something else. But my friend said it's most likely the switch box. Thanks for sharing this!!
You are welcome, best of luck on your project. These can be so tricky figuring out what little thing is wrong that's causing your problem. I hope you can eliminate what it's not and tackle to root of the problem.
@@MCFIXIT I also have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and have experience the same issues. First time still under warranty the dealership replaced the pcm. The second time (out of warranty) it was a pcm ground. Third time it would crank over but if I switch it from park to neutral it would start. Very intermittent problem and that's how I drove it most of the time. Just never new when it was going to happen. Fourth time it would not crank over or do anything and ended up with another pcm. I had tried fuel pressure, fuel injector pulse, spark to the spark plugs, grounding, voltage drops,etc. It was the pcm grounding transistor for my start circuit that was bad 😞. Hope yours is a quick fix. Probably something simple.
Hi I just battled with this problem. Yours video put me on the right track, thank you. I just would like to add that since you are unplugging connectors from activators box it could be good idea to unplug also a plug connected to starter activator (and others too). In my case it was a lot worse than the main. I used a connector spray to clean connectors.
Yes! I share this in a video I published a few weeks ago about the TIPM removal and cleaning. I made this video last month but haven't had time to edit until today. Here's a link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/kir-bH6lQVg/v-deo.html
I have a 98 ford explorer that has this intermittent no crank no start but strangest thing is it only does it when I have parked on a hill either uphill or downhill but wont do it if I park on a flat surface. It is very frustrating to say the least! I will check to see if it so happens to be the same thing in my car as it was for yours. Thank you for sharing!
That's super strange! It could be a connectivity problem because of the shifting of wires in the vehicle. I'd check all your connection. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the throughout video, it is really helpful, I did grinded that metal clip cable and put it back and still the van won't start. I even put a new starter, bolts, oil change, battery charged and still. It does that sound, the starter sound, so it works, but it doesn't want to start. I bet it must be something stupid easy fix, but not sure what. All this happened after WalMart automotive changed the oil, then the van started hanging to start till it didn't wanted to, so I thought it was a starter problem, yes the starter had a mising bold and one wrongly put n loose, so when I took it out the mount was broken so I got a replacement put it in, all thighthen like it supposed to and blah no start, although the starter works tho, a chraged up the battery cuz was low, used anothe batter, jump start the car and nothing. So I am running out of ideas here lol
Oh no! That’s the worst feeling. Often it is something small from my experience with the vehicle. But they small things make bad things happen like not starting when everything seems to be good. How much corrosion was on the positive wires at the terminal and at the TIPM? If really bad, then you may need to replace it.
@@MCFIXIT lol Bruh I put the new starter tilted from the top bolt, and there was a slight gap between the van frame starter socket (the whole where it goes!) and when I start I was hearing the starter revolving but no.gears grinding! " I was like wtf is it now!?" So a coworker told me that I might've mislplaced the starter and he was right! After removing and putting it back as supposed, vuala! Like magic, it started! I can't describe the feeling of accomplishment and ease. Also now the doors opened automatically and locks worked! Man Thanks a lot for this video and your reply, I am really grateful, God Bless!
0:19 .... 2010 and present Dodge Caravans ,Chryslers has a built-in ob2 sensor in it all you need to do is turn the key back-and-forth without starting the car, without turning the key to off! 3 times consistently while the last time leave it on accessory. On your Dash you will see the test begin it takes roughly about 30 seconds or more for results.
most dodges that have a check engine light have this feature ... my grandpas old fifth avenue and his pickup blinked the check engine for the codes just gotta beable and count
You touch your heart and negative together that make sure there’s no voltage on the system and it reset your computer you can touch them together as long as there’s no battery in between them
Yes, someone point that out in the comments that you can do a reset on the computer by connecting the positive and negative cables (without a battery). Thanks for drawing extra attention to this because I'm sure it will be useful to someone out there! My issue was a bit deeper than that and that's why I posted this video detailing how I was able to fix my issue. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey bud... so on my van I did everything like you did to the T including the wire to the fuse box and that still wasn't it... for mine it was the computer... the only way I was 100% sure that was it is because I went to the junk yard and happen to find one just like it.. so I slammed it in and right away it tried to turn over... it still didn't start but now I knew what had to happen next... that was order a new one with my VIN and milage on it... that part costs almost $300... but as soon as it came in the mail I slammed that one in and she was back to life... so just a heads up on if it's not your wire then look at the wires going into the computer... see any liquid in there then you need to replace it as well as make new connections with the wires going to the computer... it was a very long month...
Hi, so besides the VIN you're gonna have to send mileage? And did you just changed the PCM alone? Just that part and nothing else? Mine could possibly be the same issue as yours
I ended up checking for my 07 grand caravan that I have in my lot and having startup issues it was fine for a good month after it left mechanics and fast forward a night after fueling up the car and me getting home it shut off on me and I looked under the car for any gas leaks or anything nothing and I look at this video I manage to finally check under the box myself and funny enough there’s another wire connector that goes straight under where the pump replay is an entire wire shot and corroded I think I found my problem just would like to thank you never new it was simple to get under the fuse box 📦 hopefully it works when I get wires replaced
I have a 2002 dodge caravan and the other day , I stopped at a store and went to start , nothing , tried again , nothing , then I pushed the shifter up and it started, so either thinking it might be the neutral safety switch , or the dirty connection, , if you know anything about the neutral safety switch , location, testing it , bypassing it , would like to hear from you , great video you did , I will certainly clean mine up has not been touched ,Thanks ..
I’m pretty sure this vehicle has a neutral safety switch. Sorry I’ve been really busy with my day job and just getting back to comments. If it has one, they are often on the top of the transmission. That would be something to check for sure! Another thing to check is just moving your shifter up and down and making sure it’s properly seated in “park” before you start. I have a friend with this vehicle that has to shift through the gears (P, R, N, D, N, R, and then P) and often it fires right up.
Good evening my friend and nice to meet you! My vehicle (2003 Dodge Caravan Se V6 3.3) is giving me a (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1) code and i have a (2003 POWERTRAIN DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES book for town & country, caravan and voyager) that shows on page 88-89 test procedures to follow and apply. So far i have applied (test 1) and (test 2) and im on (test 3) now and im stuck on not being able to follow and apply it cause im not grasping and understanding it at all. This is test 3 Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the Fuel Injector harness connector. Remove the ASD Relay from the IPM. Turn the ignition on. Jumper the Fused B+ circuit and the ASD Relay Output circuit in the IPM. (This part im lost) Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit. Does the test light illuminate brightly? Yes Go To 4 No Repair the open in the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER-5. This is a video of me following and applying (test 2-ua-cam.com/video/rbzQKyiNwcA/v-deo.html) and in that video it shows the pages in the book from page 88-89 and pages 312-314 for code (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1). Are you able to please make a video showing me how to perform all of these test procedures so it can help me grasp and understand to where im able to apply the test procedures from all those pages?
3 months, no dice. 2003 TnC, mine starts then randomly shuts down, when it dies, the next start would be no crank, no start and red dot light on. It'll take a few days, sometimes a week before it starts again, the longest it ran was 20mins, then it dies, then same thing. Fuses are ok. Wirings are clean.
It dies when it wants to. Sometimes when on idle sometimes whlie it IS running. If i wanna risk using it I need to have an extra money prepared for a flatbed rent in case it dies. Its that scary!
"Done" on the odometer is the OBD II diagnostic message. If your "check engine" light is on, you can retrieve the code number by turning the key off/on/off/on several times. You have done this accidentally by trying to start the vehicle. The code(s) will appear on the odometer. After the codes are displayed, or if there are none, the odometer reads "done".
@@MCFIXIT I tried, it didn’t work … it’s not starting, no clicking, lights on in dash new battery. It was stalling at intersections stopped randomly but always started idk what else to do. New ecm, new fuses, new battery still dead any thoughts?? Could it be the wire harness?
Great job diagnosing this and fixing the problem. That's not an easy task when the more obvious things get ruled out. I'm having a similar issue to this. I looked and didn't see corrosion in my fuse box anywhere. I've also tested the battery, starter, relays, and alternaterator). So I'm not certain what to do next. Any ideas on what to look at next?
Mines isn’t grandcavan it’s just small caravan but I’m having the same problem....thank you for you knowledge and video don’t have money for Merck took twice to two diff mech they said they fixed it....spend 700. Already......
I'm sorry. Yeah these issues can be a money pit because often you have to change out parts to diagnose the root issue(s). Best of luck to you and that you can get your issue fixed.
You would think an error could come up on the dash message window, low voltage to ecm. I have a 2010, it apparently loses a little bit of coolant every year, and all of a sudden, sitting in the driveway, will not crank. No error code, no engine light on dash, no indication. Check and top off oil; check and top off antifreeze in reservoir, wait about 20 minutes, zoom.
That's super strange. Sounds like an intermittent starting problem. Oil and antifreeze would not necessarily fix this issue, but definitely good to have them filled to the correct amount.
Yes that's an option. The Dodge positive cables to fuse box are very strange and it's not easy. Its worked well with just a thorough cleaning and reconnect! Thanks for watching and asking a question!
@@MCFIXIT My power to the tipm looks like a regular battery cable. It's on the top/front with a red cable. When you test it with a voltmeter it has power. Don't know where the ground is
I'm having dumbass electrical issues with my 2018 Acadia. Fixed one issue and now the car left me stranded 2x tonight (auto start stop is not able to be disabled on the car) on a fwy ramp and a red light. Luckily after 50 tries I got it going again but to change the starter on this POS you need to remove the whole lower axel. I'm guessing it's something stupid as fuck like this or sticky solenoid on the starter. Last electrical issue was with the active grille and all that I needed was a clean on the ground... Yet I replaced the grille shutter. And took it to mechanic after Mechanic that couldn't figure it out.. Anyways thanks for the advice I'll def give it a shot
That’s terrible to have that new of a vehicle and having electrical issues. Normally, it’s just older vehicles that have that due to age. Best of luck on your fix! Let me know what it was!
@@MCFIXIT yup I bought the truck for just over $23k with taxes and registration at 48k miles it's sitting at 51k now. I bought it thinking it's a great road trip car for us since I have a hellcat and she has an Elantra and I have a daughter. Now I'm sketched out on it. Just like you said the cars having issues as if it has 150k miles. If I wanted to deal with this I would've bought a 10 year old $8k SUV..... Now I remember why I only buy new cars
Yeah, there’s lots of benefits to newer vehicles when you can afford them but even those are seeming to have more issues due to technology. Best of luck on your issue.
Having this exact same issue on my 03 caravan with the 3.3L Same lights on the dash, only clicking with no gas gauge or fuel pump. Got it to start by pushing and rocking on in neutral three days ago. The fuse box is very loose too. I Can't get it to start anymore at all now. going to try this out tomorrow morning! will update if this works!
@@MCFIXIT Hey! So i did the disconnect to the fuse box, it was corroded but was not the issue. i cleaned it and checked other connections. i am now going to look into the PCM. thanks for your help!
Thanks for this information. This helps clarify for those trying to figure this out. Thanks for writing about this! I totally meant to add a comment about this and forgotten to do so! I had found that out on a Reddit form after I made, edited, and posted the video.
I have a 2014 Chrysler town and country and am having issues starting. Got the battery and alternator checked and is in perfect condition. Replaced the starter so that’s brand new but still no crank. Everything in the van goes on it just doesn’t start. I know nothing about cars but am going to attempt to try this tomorrow. Any ideas of what it could be?
I'd check your ignition switch. It's located next to your steering column. It sounds like you might be having a wiring issue if all that's been changed and you don't get a crank. That's the first thing I'd check.
Yes, that is where I fix the problem, but you may need to know the information before it see all that I have already tried to get it to work. These problems are often layered and difficult to properly diagnose without many trials and errors along the way. I hope it was helpful to you.
Its telling you the engine codes. When you cycle the key 3 times it will run all the stored codes. It says done after it read all the codes. The only nice thing Dodge ever did lol.
@@MCFIXIT Absolutely it's safe even my whole home breaker box is coated in it inside. It's an outside box and the bus was starting to corrode. I sprayed all of the circuits with them still hot so it does not conduct electricity. I'm a retired Master ASE tech, if it matters and I know if you leave those terminals unprotected they will corrode fast because you removed the remainder of the protective coating. So just spray the hell out of all those connections under the panel and anywhere else like the battery terminals. ACF-50 is about 18 bucks on Amazon...
same on 2010 caravan sxt ! change relay possition resolve my problem ! 2 relay 4 little pins for start engine ! clean all pins relay with 280-320 send papers ! same things for all connextors
I have town and Country 2001,while driving all the indicators such as speed and fuel indicators drop some time and start working again, do you know what could be the issue and how to fix it?
Not 100% certain. But it is something you could definitely try. That’s a much different symptoms than mine. if it works please let me know so I can advise others in the future.
I've had starting issues with my 2008 Chrysler T&C. I haven't done any of this testing or taken it to a repair shop. In two of the cases where it didn't start, I had to leave the car and come back 8-12ish hours later in the morning and the thing started right up on the first crank when i came back to the vehicle. It's happened a few times since those two instances, and I've put the car in neutral and moved it maybe 1-2 feet manually and then it starts up again on the first crank. It's so baffling. Any thoughts on what this could be?
That’s a bit newer than mine was (rip). I’d give what I did a try. That’s a very odd set of circumstances causing the issue and allowing it to start. Do you have any check engine lights on? Did it start after any major repairs or work done on the vehicle.
My town country is blowing the ignition fuse when I accelerate with more power, could it be because the positive pole is sulfated? I'll take a look tomorrow and give it a little sandpaper by the way.
Nice job, there is literally no information available in regards to no crank, no start with intermittent starting occurring. Do you think this would work with other types of vehicles? I have an 05 Mitsubishi galant, 4 cylinder, 2.4, I'm having a frustrating situation, car starts and cranks strong 75 percent of the time, but sometimes has no crank with no start. --- When the no crank no start issue arises I usually have to sit there and turn ignition from five minutes up to an hour before it cranks and starts again. All dash lights are on ,battery is brand new, starter cranks strong. All dash lights are on ,battery is brand new. Strange thing is, my car check engine light came on momentarily and threw out a po0335 code, (bad positioning crank sensor), but the code disappeared quickly and never reappeared. My crank is strong when the car wants to start. so not sure why the code even appeared. When my car does start, I have strong crank, so i don't think the crank sensor is involved but you can never rule anything out. Was thinking my starter may be getting stuck at times or maybe a starter relay issue. I still need to check both these issues, but your video gave new insight if I cant figure out what the problem is. Was wondering what you specifically checked for regarding this issue, prior to cleaning the contact harness from positive battery cable. I already changes ignition switch, bought new battery with new terminals and have a brand new key. Was wondering what else I can check Thanks.
That does sound weird. I’ve never had or worked on a Mitsubishi. Was it a Crank shaft sensor? Is so, can sometimes give issues like what you said but it’s weird it came on and went away. Did you clear that code or it just stopping showing? For the relay option, often you can switch it out with a horn relay or wiper replay to see if it works. It needs to be one that’s the same and wouldn’t affect starting like one of the two I mentioned. Then get a new to replace the broken relay.
@@MCFIXIT I didn't realize car has no starter relay, The crankshaft sensor code was strange because symptoms of a bad crank sensor would be the car giving crank but with no start. The crank sensor code was a soft code, it only momentarily stayed on and then never appeared again. I was almost certain it was the starter because at one time when the no start no crank occurred, I knocked on the starter and it fired up, but all the other times when I had the no start no crank and I knocked on the starter, it didn't do a thing. It was just bizarre how it started most of the time but then out of the blue would have the no crank no start so intermittently with no pattern. Every mechanic did not think it was the starter because it started up so strong. I finally told the most recent mechanic that the only way he would re-create the issue is if he sat in the car and just kept cranking it on and off. Up to this point, no one had been able to recreate the issue and the car had been at his shop for 2 days already and at a previous mechanic for several days. He finally was able to get the issue to occur by just continually cranking the car on and off and it turned out to be the starter. The Mechanic I used has been working on cars 40 years and said it definitely was on of the strangest issues he has ever seen with a starter and he had no answers on the crankshaft code but thinks its a non issue.
Mr Fix it I have a question. I've done everything you've suggested even cleaned that cable and mine still won't start. I took the ignition switch out and opened it up and it seems to be alright. Everything works on the van but there's no signal going to the starter relay and no signal going to the ignition coil pack. I can jumper the starter relay and it will spin the engine over like new but the van doesn't start just cranks over. I pulled a plug wire and there's no spark. Do you think the pcm isn't sending signal to the starter relay or the ignition relay? When I turn the key all the way to engage the starter there's a really quiet click coming from that relay box not from the starter solenoid. I'm going to sell mine for scrap and not spend anymore money on it. The pcm has to be reprogrammed to the van so buying a new one and having it programmed it out of the question. Any ideas?
That's a tough spot to be in. It kinda sounds like a PCM issues to me, but it's hard to tell without being there in person. PCM issues are very common on these vehicles and are often very costly. I have heard there's a company in Fl that redoes them and sells them much cheaper than a dealership does, but I can't remember their name right now. I hope you are able to figure it out.
@@MCFIXIT thanks I'm thinking it must be the pcm as well. Unfortunately salvage yards refuse to sell them and used ones on ebay are expensive and rebuilt ones are too and require programming. Anyway thanks for answering me.
Great video, I have an 03 town and country lxi 3.8 v6, my issue is that the first time to start it of the day, I have to jump it, while it's hot out I'm good, once it gets cold out, I go to crank it over and it won't crank over till I jump start it again. Do you think my issue is due to the same problem you had? And thank you
My systems were different as described in the video. It might be different bc if the being cold outside seeming to cause your problem. My was not weather dependent. This might work and is pretty easy to do, so I’d try it before taking it in to get worked on.
96 honda accord same problem now think may be worn out key and ignition tumbler. tried a less used crisper cut key and removed all the million other keys off keyring and getting it to start now for couple of weeks. still have fingers crossed when starting it and dont go too far from home. Do you think key was it or ignition tumbler old key issue?
I think it might be the tumbler (ignition cylinder). I know if they are weighted down they can go bad after years of additional weight. Often a worn out key will not allow it to turn at all. Like it will only go in and out, no ability to turn it over. If you do it yourself often the new ignition cylinder will have new key (or keys). I’ve never done one on an Accord but often they are pretty easy to change out with a few tools and I’m sure there’s a video on UA-cam with a good walkthrough! Good luck and hope you figure out the root cause quickly!
@@cyyoung9175 Yes, they are the worst kind of issues to have because you think you have it fixed and then it isn't. I'd much rather have a consistent problem that can be identified and fixed. Good luck!
This no start, no crank intermittent start had me puzzled for days. Here's what I did to fix it...
00:15 The Problem
01:03 The Fix
03:15 TOOLS:
• Philips Screwdriver - amzn.to/3hdpzx0
• 220 grit sandpaper - amzn.to/3y1lyRU
• 10mm socket - battery - basic set: amzn.to/3fjRoBd
• 13mm socket - batter nut latch - basic set: amzn.to/3fjRoBd
• Ratchet - basic set: amzn.to/3xWjE5g
• 6in extension to get to battery nut latck - amzn.to/3uwhLKx
• Pick (optional) - amzn.to/3nZM8q4
• Magnetic Metal Tray - amzn.to/3hdUiJZ
• Multimeter (optional) - check fuses - amzn.to/3o1T5qw
15:05 Test to make sure it worked
This video should work on Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town and Country for Generation 4 for the years of 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007. It should be very similar for years before and after this.
Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information in the video, post, blog, or social media. MC FIX IT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable at any time. Stop and go to a professional. MC FIX IT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your house, or any other project and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MC FIX IT.
#mcfixit #autorepair #fix #repair #nostart #nocrank #intermittentstart #batterycable
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I have the same problem with 2012 caravan, do you think it has the same red cable?
There is a good chance! It should be the same main power cable going to your fuse box and they are often red.
@@expectatussle Hello! Thanks for writing. I did go through all I have done to date before I fixed the issue. I could have made about 6-10 videos on all of that without really solving the problem, but I didn't (that's what a lot of others do). Often "no starts" are difficult to determine the root cause and take trial and error as you determine what is really happening. That's why you have to pay hundreds for them at service stations, because they just start fixing everything until they get lucky and solve the issue. Most don't really run any tests they just replace parts and you get stuck. By 3:30 I'm diving into the fix with already discussed all of the prior attempts to fix this issue and a full list of tools and everything to get the project done. Not sure what you mean by rambling for 15 mins without doing anything is all about. I personallyhate starting a project and not knowing I'm going to need a 6in extension to get out a bolt on the bottom of your battery tray, which I did when recording this video. Then have to run back and forth to a toobox. So yeah, I did go through a lot of material which is helpful in diagnoising this sort of problem and fixing it right instead of having to guess along the way. This sort of a fix is much more complicated thing than let's say an oil change on a vehicle which one could do a short without any real discussion or teaching. I'm sorry you are displeased with how I run my channel obviously a few people have found it helpful as you read through the comments, over 54.6k views, and see over 800 likes in under a year. And no, I don't ask for payment or any kind of subscription and never plan too. I am grateful for UA-cam and the ability to learn and teach others many great things. And yes, I do add some links (a total of NINE which are all tools for this specific project) to assist people. And yes, I do get a little kickback from Amazon like 1-3% for hours of work recording, editing, and replying on UA-cam. Use the links or dont that's totally up to you! And I'm sure tiktoks and other shorts are helpful for lots of things but probably not a problem like this. I hope you are able to figure out your no start and you have a good day.
@@expectatussle LOL You evidently didn’t watch the video to the end. The main power connector under the main fuse box was corroded. He took apart the connector, used sand paper to clean the corrosion off, put it back together, he accidentally put it in upside down and had to take it apart again and put it in correctly, finished putting everything back where it needed to be. The van started first try and he put a green check mark on the screen indicating that was the fix!!! I greatly appreciate the fact he pointed out his mistake and corrected it in the video. He’s a true MAN!!!
Thanks for an awesome tutorial MC FIX IT!!! I can do this myself!! I have some work to do on my van. The gauges are intermittently going crazy with the dashboard lights and radio going on and off. That could be a ground wire or Auto Shutdown Relay. *fingers crossed* My van just started with the “I don’t want to start” crap. I’m definitely going to check that connector!! Thank you very much again!!! 🥰❤️ I just found your channel and subscribed too!! 🥰❤️
Those intermittent problems with dodges are so hard to figure out,,, I’ve wasted so much money trying to resolve problems just like this! Great job on figuring it out and sharing it with others!
Tell me about it. I totally agree!
Yeah I even replaced my start switch chasing down a no starter issue. This got it.
Darn it this did not work for me.
Thanks! I appreciate that you showed us your “fail” where you plugged the cable in upside down into the connector. It makes me know I’m not the only one who does that. Great fix!
Glad it helped! Often the fails are how we learn to do it better the next time. I feel like I failed on many different elements of this fix bc of the number of things I worked on to get it working correctly!
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Yes, if in doubt take pictures of plugs, and other areas "before" disassembly..
That's one of the "ghost problems " that we get on some used cars. I bought a 2015 grand caravan 3 months ago and it has failed me starting right away and once didn't started at all. Tow truck came and it made look stupid by starting first attempt. I had them tow it to the mechanic to find out what was wrong but nothing showed on scanners. Yesterday it didn't start until I tried a bunch of times until worked.
Thank you for this video, it makes so much sense . Glen
Yes, these are problems that many years of this vehicle have. They are difficult to figure out the root cause and can sometimes just work without an issue then it comes back (even a day later)
Fantastic!! I had same problem, starts when it wants to… knew something getting hot at the starter relay , runs great after starting, when turn off, won’t start again for few hours, after cool down , it will start. I will certainly pull the fuse box to make sure. Thank you so much!! This is a mind boggling diagnostic and spent many hours figuring this out.
Yes, I agree! These wiring problems can make you pull your hair out.
Thank you for show us. And also because you are the first person who answer each comment. I never saw that before.
You are welcome. I try my best to answer questions and comment on responses to my channel. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps your project!
WOW! I have dealt with an intermittent starting problem on my 08 Dodge Grand Caravan since 2019 you have no idea how excited this video makes me!😁
Best of luck on your Caravan. That is about 2 or maybe 3 generations of newer of the model, so things can change drastically between generations. But I hope the diagnosis work on this will help identify your problem. Have a great day!
Great video. My issue ended up being the ignition switch but I still cleaned the grounds, cables and pulled the positive wire from the fuse box . Great job
Great job figuring out the root issue! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Holy crap it worked fantastic I wasn’t expecting it to. Thanks for figuring this out all your detective skills are greatly appreciated!!!
Glad it worked for you!
My dude back at it! Fantastic video and instructions! I hate all intermittent problems. So hard to diagnosis bc one day it work and the next you have issues. Good job doing the hard work and figuring out exactly what your problem is!
And thanks to his wife for the extra help to allow him to be in the engine bay when trying to start it. A second person is often really helpful when diagnosing issues in cars
Yes extra help is always a good thing to have when diagnosing issues!
YES!!! This is the video that solved my random no start issue. I never had to crank it 20-30 times like he idd, but man this solved it. You saved big $$$$! I appreciate your and now I'm hooked on your videos. You are getting a subscribe from me!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
The patience you showed shows how humble you are. Great video.
Thanks George! Hope you can fix your vehicle
I've been chasing an intermittent no-crank/fire on my mother's '09 Caravan. I am hoping this will remedy the problem because I'm one fuse short of lighting the entire thing on fire (not really)... Thank you for this video, fingers crossed I can reply back that THIS fixed it. If not, at least it helped me eliminate something. Thank you for the immensely thorough video.
Did it work? Thanks for watching and commenting!
did it work for you?
Bro this worked like a Charm just fixed mine thank you keep doing these videos saved me about $500 dollars where I’m at
So glad it worked and was helpful! Sadly, I don’t own that vehicle any longer so i only have a few more that are unedited
I had a similar issue but my was on the negative battery cable where it attached to the engine. It was corroded like crazy. This helped me think through all the of the cables and eventually solve my problem. Thank you!
Glad to helped. Thanks for watching!
Man, oh man, is this a fine video. I watched the entire thing twice and went to it. I was so hopeful that this would solve my "no crank, no start" situation with my 2003 Town and Country. Mine was pretty clean inside so no solution here but I can at least check it off of my list as I try to solve the problem. My next step is replacing the ignition switch as that is the way it is looking right now. I am waiting for a T10 "security" bit to arrive to aide in removing the existing switch body.
Best of luck on your issues
Did the ignition switch fix work ?
@@jameswhitney8820 It wound up being my computer but I am up and running again. I got a great deal on the computer from a firm in Florida. Fast, came programmed...true plug and play.
This is a great help. A friend's issue is absolutely no electrical power anywhere. It's got a solid charged battery & I've tested everything I could think of. I thought about this but didn't want to pry too hard on what looked to me like a trap to break something. His wife tried to start it & it made one (just one) loud click. Then it's like someone stole the battery. This puts my mind at ease moving forward in this direction. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. I hope you are able to find the root cause of your problem!
I’ve had this issue before and ended up trading the vehicle in bc I was so sick of throwing money into it. I changed out the battery, started, ignition switch, another starter, and then I was done. I wish I would have seen this video bc with just a few tools and some time I could have saved that vehicle.
Yeah, it's been a few weeks of being frustrated that I finally figured it out. I was so tired of starting and starting and starting the vehicle to get it to work.
Thanks very much!! I've been dealing with this exact problem for more than a year! I knew it had something to do with the positive cable because I figured out that if I jiggled the wires, it usually starts. The problem has progressively got worse over the last several month. I'm gonna try this tomorrow!! Wish me luck!! 😁
Good luck on your project and I hope it works!
Did you get yours figured out?
@@jimmyronsonet2811 Mine ended up being the starter. I bought a cheap one on Amazon and it fixed it right up. Lol
@@krazeekidz3 thanks for the reply, mine ended up being the module behind the key switch.
Mine had a no start and I had just changed out the ac blower motor. I finally after trying about everything flipped my box over like in your video. The contacts didn't look too bad and I never got the wire out of the socket so I just plugged it back in. It starts now so your video was a big help. Guess it just wasn't making good contact.
Glad to hear it’s working again!
@@MCFIXIT it's back again. Left me on the side of the road.
dude I love you man! I was going down the same path on my mother in law's van.
So now I am going to try this before I remove that last starter bolt
update: It worked! Thanks for posting God bless you da man
Awesomeness! So glad it was helpful!
Thanks for another informative video. I’m so glad I subscribed a few months back, I appreciate all the vids on the town and country you are doing.
Awesome! Thank you!
Well done demonstrating. Thank you for taking your time and show everything step by step by step. God bless
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try this on my daughter's van when she gets home today. She has to crank 20 to 30 times like you did before the fix. It says done on the dash too.
Best of luck on your project. I hope you are able to get it back up and running!
I think one of my fuses or relays are bad. This was helping in thinking through how to diagnose what is going on with my Caravan.
You are welcome, thanks foe watching
That "done" is the onboard diagnostics reader. You can check for codes by turning the key on off 3 times....then leaving the key on on third time. Any trouble codes will read there in the odometer window. Once all of the codes flash there, "done" tells you that the end of them.
Thank you!
Solid video with great explanations through the whole thing. I really appreciate the tool list too. Keep the videos coming
Thanks, will do!
Great video. Thanks for the in-depth instructions! Super helpful
You're very welcome!
Nice! Had similar issues and swapped too much out/spent too much money. Guess in the end I had new good parts tho! Great video!
Sorry to hear that. It's tough to figure out. I'm thankful i got it figured out and wanted to share with others! Thanks for watching.
Not sure if it's been mentioned but the "DONE" is the Chrysler/Dodge code cyle. If you turn the key 3 times back and forth it will read and give you the "P" codes.
I didn’t realize it did that when shooting this video. It’s a pretty nice feature that Dodge put in there!
Great video. Thanks for putting this together. You really helped get me back on the road with just about an our worth of work and a few tools. My battery cable was much more corroded than yours, but that was my issue too. Thanks again!
You are welcome!
Thank you for this video my same van is an 07 that's the first thing I checked and it fixed it it started up
Took a second to reset I guess Cause at 1st it would do nothing for me then the wife started it up no problem thanks for this video very much appreciated and good detail on removing everything
Glad it helped
Great Video --I will try this on my 1999 dodge grand caravan-- God bless you for helping many others
Good luck! I hope this video helps you fix your problem
I'm thinking to try this on a 1999 carvan too. Did it work for you?
Nice job , like they say your never to old to learn something new.
Thanks so much! Glad to hear it was helpful!
Exact same issue with my 2005 Caravan.
Lots of tries before it starts, worse in colder (or drier) weather. “done” code. You are the first afaik to find a solution. I wonder though if there is some uncertainty principle to consider, as in the more old untouched wires and connectors you jiggle, the less you know about exactly which one was the problem. I say this because when you first disturbed the box and wifey started it, whatever changed may have been unlikely to quickly/certainly revert back to the original problem state, and thus obscure further analysis. I haven’t gotten my hands on the fuse/relay box yet to see if I can reproduce your success, but when I do, I would like to look at the circuit diagrams and see if are any other links in the starting sequence that pass through there, and even outside the box, in nearby splices etc. In any case, I think you have saved a lot of time and staved off much curses and frustration for many. Thanks
It was a bit of a lucky solution after lots of work. I'm glad it happened that way so it would be fixed and be able to be used a daily driver again! Crazy how that happens sometimes, but you could be further downstream as well. Good luck on your project! I hope it is an easy fix for you!
Dude, you are awesome! Wish I had the energy and stamina to see it thru like you.
You can do it! Hope this helps and you are able to figure out your problem!
That was so helpful!! I'm puzzled at the moment with my 2003 Chrysler Town and country van. It's doing the exact thing. We just exchanged our old battery today for a new one and that wasn't the issue. The next step is relay switch or something else. But my friend said it's most likely the switch box. Thanks for sharing this!!
You are welcome, best of luck on your project. These can be so tricky figuring out what little thing is wrong that's causing your problem. I hope you can eliminate what it's not and tackle to root of the problem.
@@MCFIXIT I also have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and have experience the same issues. First time still under warranty the dealership replaced the pcm. The second time (out of warranty) it was a pcm ground. Third time it would crank over but if I switch it from park to neutral it would start. Very intermittent problem and that's how I drove it most of the time. Just never new when it was going to happen. Fourth time it would not crank over or do anything and ended up with another pcm. I had tried fuel pressure, fuel injector pulse, spark to the spark plugs, grounding, voltage drops,etc. It was the pcm grounding transistor for my start circuit that was bad 😞. Hope yours is a quick fix. Probably something simple.
Hi I just battled with this problem. Yours video put me on the right track, thank you. I just would like to add that since you are unplugging connectors from activators box it could be good idea to unplug also a plug connected to starter activator (and others too). In my case it was a lot worse than the main.
I used a connector spray to clean connectors.
Great idea there!
The fuse box has two latches that have a clip that pops out for an easy removal of the fuse box!
Yes! I share this in a video I published a few weeks ago about the TIPM removal and cleaning. I made this video last month but haven't had time to edit until today. Here's a link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/kir-bH6lQVg/v-deo.html
Great problem solving and being willing to figure it as you go!
Thank you! I hope you figure out how to fix your vehicle!
I have a 98 ford explorer that has this intermittent no crank no start but strangest thing is it only does it when I have parked on a hill either uphill or downhill but wont do it if I park on a flat surface. It is very frustrating to say the least! I will check to see if it so happens to be the same thing in my car as it was for yours. Thank you for sharing!
That's super strange! It could be a connectivity problem because of the shifting of wires in the vehicle. I'd check all your connection. Thanks for watching!
Great problem solving skills. Sometimes you've got to keep at it until you figure it out.
Very true!
Thanks for the throughout video, it is really helpful, I did grinded that metal clip cable and put it back and still the van won't start. I even put a new starter, bolts, oil change, battery charged and still. It does that sound, the starter sound, so it works, but it doesn't want to start. I bet it must be something stupid easy fix, but not sure what. All this happened after WalMart automotive changed the oil, then the van started hanging to start till it didn't wanted to, so I thought it was a starter problem, yes the starter had a mising bold and one wrongly put n loose, so when I took it out the mount was broken so I got a replacement put it in, all thighthen like it supposed to and blah no start, although the starter works tho, a chraged up the battery cuz was low, used anothe batter, jump start the car and nothing. So I am running out of ideas here lol
Oh no! That’s the worst feeling. Often it is something small from my experience with the vehicle. But they small things make bad things happen like not starting when everything seems to be good. How much corrosion was on the positive wires at the terminal and at the TIPM? If really bad, then you may need to replace it.
@@MCFIXIT lol Bruh I put the new starter tilted from the top bolt, and there was a slight gap between the van frame starter socket (the whole where it goes!) and when I start I was hearing the starter revolving but no.gears grinding! " I was like wtf is it now!?" So a coworker told me that I might've mislplaced the starter and he was right! After removing and putting it back as supposed, vuala! Like magic, it started! I can't describe the feeling of accomplishment and ease. Also now the doors opened automatically and locks worked! Man Thanks a lot for this video and your reply, I am really grateful, God Bless!
Wow, thank you! I’ve been trying to figure this out for my car for a few weeks! This worked!
So glad it helped you out! Thanks for letting me know and watching the video!
0:19 .... 2010 and present Dodge Caravans ,Chryslers has a built-in ob2 sensor in it all you need to do is turn the key back-and-forth without starting the car, without turning the key to off! 3 times consistently while the last time leave it on accessory. On your Dash you will see the test begin it takes roughly about 30 seconds or more for results.
That's what this vehicle has as well. I didn't realize that is what was happening, because I didn't know if had this feature. Thanks for the insights!
most dodges that have a check engine light have this feature ... my grandpas old fifth avenue and his pickup blinked the check engine for the codes just gotta beable and count
You touch your heart and negative together that make sure there’s no voltage on the system and it reset your computer you can touch them together as long as there’s no battery in between them
Yes, someone point that out in the comments that you can do a reset on the computer by connecting the positive and negative cables (without a battery). Thanks for drawing extra attention to this because I'm sure it will be useful to someone out there! My issue was a bit deeper than that and that's why I posted this video detailing how I was able to fix my issue. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for posting this video. It really helped me see how to do this project!
Glad it helped!
Great video. Thank you for putting this together in a short video with great instructions!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey bud... so on my van I did everything like you did to the T including the wire to the fuse box and that still wasn't it... for mine it was the computer... the only way I was 100% sure that was it is because I went to the junk yard and happen to find one just like it.. so I slammed it in and right away it tried to turn over... it still didn't start but now I knew what had to happen next... that was order a new one with my VIN and milage on it... that part costs almost $300... but as soon as it came in the mail I slammed that one in and she was back to life... so just a heads up on if it's not your wire then look at the wires going into the computer... see any liquid in there then you need to replace it as well as make new connections with the wires going to the computer... it was a very long month...
Great insights. I hope this helps someone! Where did you order your new computer?
Hi, so besides the VIN you're gonna have to send mileage? And did you just changed the PCM alone? Just that part and nothing else? Mine could possibly be the same issue as yours
I ended up checking for my 07 grand caravan that I have in my lot and having startup issues it was fine for a good month after it left mechanics and fast forward a night after fueling up the car and me getting home it shut off on me and I looked under the car for any gas leaks or anything nothing and I look at this video I manage to finally check under the box myself and funny enough there’s another wire connector that goes straight under where the pump replay is an entire wire shot and corroded I think I found my problem just would like to thank you never new it was simple to get under the fuse box 📦 hopefully it works when I get wires replaced
I hope so too! These vans are great when they work but a trouble with ipm/TIPM issues.
I have a 2002 dodge caravan and the other day , I stopped at a store and went to start , nothing , tried again , nothing , then I pushed the shifter up and it started, so either thinking it might be the neutral safety switch , or the dirty connection, , if you know anything about the neutral safety switch , location, testing it , bypassing it , would like to hear from you , great video you did , I will certainly clean mine up has not been touched ,Thanks ..
I’m pretty sure this vehicle has a neutral safety switch. Sorry I’ve been really busy with my day job and just getting back to comments. If it has one, they are often on the top of the transmission. That would be something to check for sure! Another thing to check is just moving your shifter up and down and making sure it’s properly seated in “park” before you start. I have a friend with this vehicle that has to shift through the gears (P, R, N, D, N, R, and then P) and often it fires right up.
This video is great! I do however believe you could save yourself alot of time by using battery post cleaner spray to clean it up. Thanks again.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you now I have hope for my grand caravan!
Best of luck on your repair! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Good evening my friend and nice to meet you!
My vehicle (2003 Dodge Caravan Se V6 3.3) is giving me a (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1) code and i have a (2003 POWERTRAIN DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES book for town & country, caravan and voyager) that shows on page 88-89 test procedures to follow and apply.
So far i have applied (test 1) and (test 2) and im on (test 3) now and im stuck on not being able to follow and apply it cause im not grasping and understanding it at all.
This is test 3
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the Fuel Injector harness connector.
Remove the ASD Relay from the IPM.
Turn the ignition on.
Jumper the Fused B+ circuit and the ASD Relay Output circuit in the IPM. (This part im lost)
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit.
Does the test light illuminate brightly?
Yes Go To 4
No Repair the open in the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER-5.
This is a video of me following and applying (test 2-ua-cam.com/video/rbzQKyiNwcA/v-deo.html) and in that video it shows the pages in the book from page 88-89 and pages 312-314 for code (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1).
Are you able to please make a video showing me how to perform all of these test procedures so it can help me grasp and understand to where im able to apply the test procedures from all those pages?
3 months, no dice. 2003 TnC, mine starts then randomly shuts down, when it dies, the next start would be no crank, no start and red dot light on. It'll take a few days, sometimes a week before it starts again, the longest it ran was 20mins, then it dies, then same thing. Fuses are ok. Wirings are clean.
These things are tricky to figure out. Many of them have wiring and fuses that have gone bad over the years. Does it die when driving? Or just idle?
It dies when it wants to. Sometimes when on idle sometimes whlie it IS running. If i wanna risk using it I need to have an extra money prepared for a flatbed rent in case it dies. Its that scary!
Oh no! So sorry! They are known for these issues. I hope you had some good prior use out of it
Very nice, Can't wait to see if that's the problem on mine or not.
Thanks! Good luck on your fix!
"Done" on the odometer is the OBD II diagnostic message.
If your "check engine" light is on, you can retrieve the code number by turning the key off/on/off/on several times.
You have done this accidentally by trying to start the vehicle.
The code(s) will appear on the odometer. After the codes are displayed, or if there are none, the odometer reads "done".
Thank you! I didn’t know it had this feature when filming the video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow I have the same issue, did the van stall when driving too? Mine was now its DEAD will try this too THANKS
Best of luck on your repair!
@@MCFIXIT I tried, it didn’t work … it’s not starting, no clicking, lights on in dash new battery. It was stalling at intersections stopped randomly but always started idk what else to do. New ecm, new fuses, new battery still dead any thoughts?? Could it be the wire harness?
Great job diagnosing this and fixing the problem. That's not an easy task when the more obvious things get ruled out. I'm having a similar issue to this. I looked and didn't see corrosion in my fuse box anywhere. I've also tested the battery, starter, relays, and alternaterator). So I'm not certain what to do next. Any ideas on what to look at next?
Have you checked your negative cables (from battery to frame and engine)? That’s where I’d look next!
What was it?!
Check the computer
Pcm behind the left tire about 300 can get u one shipped and preprogrammed pray this helps
Mines isn’t grandcavan it’s just small caravan but I’m having the same problem....thank you for you knowledge and video don’t have money for Merck took twice to two diff mech they said they fixed it....spend 700. Already......
I'm sorry. Yeah these issues can be a money pit because often you have to change out parts to diagnose the root issue(s). Best of luck to you and that you can get your issue fixed.
You would think an error could come up on the dash message window, low voltage to ecm. I have a 2010, it apparently loses a little bit of coolant every year, and all of a sudden, sitting in the driveway, will not crank. No error code, no engine light on dash, no indication. Check and top off oil; check and top off antifreeze in reservoir, wait about 20 minutes, zoom.
That's super strange. Sounds like an intermittent starting problem. Oil and antifreeze would not necessarily fix this issue, but definitely good to have them filled to the correct amount.
So helpful, thank you for this !!
Thanks for watching!
Has the cleaning held up or should you have replaced the positive cable from the battery to your fuse box?
Yes that's an option. The Dodge positive cables to fuse box are very strange and it's not easy. Its worked well with just a thorough cleaning and reconnect! Thanks for watching and asking a question!
If there’s no break in the battery cable, you should be good.
@@MCFIXIT My power to the tipm looks like a regular battery cable. It's on the top/front with a red cable. When you test it with a voltmeter it has power. Don't know where the ground is
@@apachewraith It should be a large black cable. What year is your vehicle?
@@MCFIXIT It's 2013. Doesn't start. Weird clunking noise when you turn the key on if you're on the brake.
-thanks bro, about to try that right now on my 1999 caravan
Best of luck! Hope this fixes your issue
I'm having dumbass electrical issues with my 2018 Acadia. Fixed one issue and now the car left me stranded 2x tonight (auto start stop is not able to be disabled on the car) on a fwy ramp and a red light. Luckily after 50 tries I got it going again but to change the starter on this POS you need to remove the whole lower axel. I'm guessing it's something stupid as fuck like this or sticky solenoid on the starter.
Last electrical issue was with the active grille and all that I needed was a clean on the ground... Yet I replaced the grille shutter. And took it to mechanic after Mechanic that couldn't figure it out..
Anyways thanks for the advice I'll def give it a shot
That’s terrible to have that new of a vehicle and having electrical issues. Normally, it’s just older vehicles that have that due to age. Best of luck on your fix! Let me know what it was!
@@MCFIXIT yup I bought the truck for just over $23k with taxes and registration at 48k miles it's sitting at 51k now. I bought it thinking it's a great road trip car for us since I have a hellcat and she has an Elantra and I have a daughter. Now I'm sketched out on it.
Just like you said the cars having issues as if it has 150k miles. If I wanted to deal with this I would've bought a 10 year old $8k SUV.....
Now I remember why I only buy new cars
Yeah, there’s lots of benefits to newer vehicles when you can afford them but even those are seeming to have more issues due to technology. Best of luck on your issue.
great video however it looks like you sanded through the nickle coating on the main power connector. It was part of what was keeping it from corroding
Thanks for the info. I know you can apply a coating on it if you'd like to prevent future possible corrosion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Perfect fix !!! Thank for the great information !!
So glad it was helpful!
Nice detective work!
Yeah, it was a lot of work to figure it out!
Not sure what's up but YT won't let me save or subscribe or like this video.
I took a photo of this so I know how to find you
Thanx! For this video.
That's not good. Thank you for letting me know. I hope the video was helpful and you can fix your vehicle!
Very informative.
Thanks for watching!
that is great trouble shoot i have a2005 town country have intermit start will try this
Best of luck! Mine was the previous generation to yours but it should be pretty similar
Having this exact same issue on my 03 caravan with the 3.3L Same lights on the dash, only clicking with no gas gauge or fuel pump. Got it to start by pushing and rocking on in neutral three days ago. The fuse box is very loose too. I Can't get it to start anymore at all now. going to try this out tomorrow morning! will update if this works!
Let me know how it goes! Best of luck on these type of issues! They are a pain but it feels good when you finally diagnose and figure it out!
@@MCFIXIT Hey! So i did the disconnect to the fuse box, it was corroded but was not the issue. i cleaned it and checked other connections. i am now going to look into the PCM. thanks for your help!
Was it your PCM?
when turn the key on and off three times the display show the check engine codes and the done means its done displaying check engine codes
Thanks for that info!
To bad it never had a check engine light on during any time with the issue because that would have made diagnosis a bit easier!
your video is help thanks. I have dodge caraven 2004 same happen i have to fix tomorow
You are welcome and thanks for commenting!
When you cycle the key three times it will show any codes that the van has that are active if there are none it will just say done
Thanks for this information. This helps clarify for those trying to figure this out. Thanks for writing about this!
I totally meant to add a comment about this and forgotten to do so! I had found that out on a Reddit form after I made, edited, and posted the video.
How has it held up 6 months later ? Thanks for the video
Still doing well! Thanks for asking
Thx very much my friend it help very well...
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great stuff
Thanks for watching!
I have a 2014 Chrysler town and country and am having issues starting. Got the battery and alternator checked and is in perfect condition. Replaced the starter so that’s brand new but still no crank. Everything in the van goes on it just doesn’t start. I know nothing about cars but am going to attempt to try this tomorrow. Any ideas of what it could be?
I'd check your ignition switch. It's located next to your steering column. It sounds like you might be having a wiring issue if all that's been changed and you don't get a crank. That's the first thing I'd check.
What happened did you fix your problem, I have the same problem with my 2012 caravan
If you have green crusties on the outside where it crimps to the cable you have green crusties on the inside of the cable and eventually it will fail.
Great information! Yes, the entire cable can become corroded and will need to be changed! Thanks!
Mine was really covered in green corrosion (much worse that the video). So my battery cable if bad? This seemed to resolve my problem.
start at 6:00 to get to the KEY of the problem.
Yes, that is where I fix the problem, but you may need to know the information before it see all that I have already tried to get it to work. These problems are often layered and difficult to properly diagnose without many trials and errors along the way. I hope it was helpful to you.
@@MCFIXIT Yes, true & I understand that. Was just putting a time marker for those in a hurry & impatient like myself...lol.
@@MCFIXIT thanks for the helpful video though :)
Love you man your inspiration
Thanks so much! Hope your project goes well!
Its telling you the engine codes. When you cycle the key 3 times it will run all the stored codes. It says done after it read all the codes. The only nice thing Dodge ever did lol.
Thanks! Yes that is a nice feature!
Something needs to be put on those terminals to keep it from corroding. ACF 50? Especially the one you sanded down....
I’ll have to look into ACF 50. Is it electrical safe? Have you used it before and got good results on a power battery cable terminal?
@@MCFIXIT Absolutely it's safe even my whole home breaker box is coated in it inside. It's an outside box and the bus was starting to corrode. I sprayed all of the circuits with them still hot so it does not conduct electricity. I'm a retired Master ASE tech, if it matters and I know if you leave those terminals unprotected they will corrode fast because you removed the remainder of the protective coating. So just spray the hell out of all those connections under the panel and anywhere else like the battery terminals. ACF-50 is about 18 bucks on Amazon...
Thanks for this info! This is great to know!
the done shows up when the car is ready for a new keyless entry fob to be programmed :) - you're welcome
Thanks for this tip!
wow GOING TO TRY THIS TOMORROW
How did it go?
Why does corrosion create an intermittent problem?
Great answer Total Confusion!
Yes, fantastic explanation!
Thanks for asking. Total Confusion said it correctly!
Good job brother
Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
same on 2010 caravan sxt ! change relay possition resolve my problem ! 2 relay 4 little pins for start engine ! clean all pins relay with 280-320 send papers ! same things for all connextors
Thank you for adding this to the comment section! I appreciate you watching the video as well
0:47 you can trouble shooting for codes by turning key 3 times after codes flash it says done.
Thank you. I didn’t realize this vehicle did that.
I have town and Country 2001,while driving all the indicators such as speed and fuel indicators drop some time and start working again, do you know what could be the issue and how to fix it?
Not 100% certain. But it is something you could definitely try. That’s a much different symptoms than mine. if it works please let me know so I can advise others in the future.
Hi... Now and after 5 months did you get the problem again ??
No problems, this helped to fix it!
@@MCFIXIT nice.. Thank you
Great video. Thanks for all the effort!
Thanks so much! I hope it was helpful!
It was! Sprayed the whole fuse box with penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Problem solved!
really good info. this should help!
Thanks so much! i hope you are able to get your vehicle starting properly now!
I've had starting issues with my 2008 Chrysler T&C. I haven't done any of this testing or taken it to a repair shop. In two of the cases where it didn't start, I had to leave the car and come back 8-12ish hours later in the morning and the thing started right up on the first crank when i came back to the vehicle. It's happened a few times since those two instances, and I've put the car in neutral and moved it maybe 1-2 feet manually and then it starts up again on the first crank. It's so baffling. Any thoughts on what this could be?
That’s a bit newer than mine was (rip). I’d give what I did a try. That’s a very odd set of circumstances causing the issue and allowing it to start. Do you have any check engine lights on? Did it start after any major repairs or work done on the vehicle.
My town country is blowing the ignition fuse when I accelerate with more power, could it be because the positive pole is sulfated? I'll take a look tomorrow and give it a little sandpaper by the way.
It could be because of that, you’ll need to pull it and see if there’s a lot of build up. Has it blown it multiple times?
Nice job, there is literally no information available in regards to no crank, no start with intermittent starting occurring. Do you think this would work with other types of vehicles? I have an 05 Mitsubishi galant, 4 cylinder, 2.4,
I'm having a frustrating situation, car starts and cranks strong 75 percent of the time, but sometimes has no crank with no start. --- When the no crank no start issue arises I usually have to sit there and turn ignition from five minutes up to an hour before it cranks and starts again. All dash lights are on ,battery is brand new, starter cranks strong. All dash lights are on ,battery is brand new.
Strange thing is, my car check engine light came on momentarily and threw out a po0335 code, (bad positioning crank sensor), but the code disappeared quickly and never reappeared. My crank is strong when the car wants to start. so not sure why the code even appeared. When my car does start, I have strong crank, so i don't think the crank sensor is involved but you can never rule anything out.
Was thinking my starter may be getting stuck at times or maybe a starter relay issue. I still need to check both these issues, but your video gave new insight if I cant figure out what the problem is.
Was wondering what you specifically checked for regarding this issue, prior to cleaning the contact harness from positive battery cable. I already changes ignition switch, bought new battery with new terminals and have a brand new key. Was wondering what else I can check Thanks.
That does sound weird. I’ve never had or worked on a Mitsubishi.
Was it a Crank shaft sensor? Is so, can sometimes give issues like what you said but it’s weird it came on and went away. Did you clear that code or it just stopping showing?
For the relay option, often you can switch it out with a horn relay or wiper replay to see if it works. It needs to be one that’s the same and wouldn’t affect starting like one of the two I mentioned. Then get a new to replace the broken relay.
@@MCFIXIT
I didn't realize car has no starter relay,
The crankshaft sensor code was strange because symptoms of a bad crank sensor would be the car giving crank but with no start. The crank sensor code was a soft code, it only momentarily stayed on and then never appeared again.
I was almost certain it was the starter because at one time when the no start no crank occurred, I knocked on the starter and it fired up, but all the other times when I had the no start no crank and I knocked on the starter, it didn't do a thing.
It was just bizarre how it started most of the time but then out of the blue would have the no crank no start so intermittently with no pattern.
Every mechanic did not think it was the starter because it started up so strong.
I finally told the most recent mechanic that the only way he would re-create the issue is if he sat in the car and just kept cranking it on and off. Up to this point, no one had been able to recreate the issue and the car had been at his shop for 2 days already and at a previous mechanic for several days.
He finally was able to get the issue to occur by just continually cranking the car on and off and it turned out to be the starter. The Mechanic I used has been working on cars 40 years and said it definitely was on of the strangest issues he has ever seen with a starter and he had no answers on the crankshaft code but thinks its a non issue.
Mr Fix it I have a question. I've done everything you've suggested even cleaned that cable and mine still won't start. I took the ignition switch out and opened it up and it seems to be alright. Everything works on the van but there's no signal going to the starter relay and no signal going to the ignition coil pack. I can jumper the starter relay and it will spin the engine over like new but the van doesn't start just cranks over. I pulled a plug wire and there's no spark. Do you think the pcm isn't sending signal to the starter relay or the ignition relay? When I turn the key all the way to engage the starter there's a really quiet click coming from that relay box not from the starter solenoid. I'm going to sell mine for scrap and not spend anymore money on it. The pcm has to be reprogrammed to the van so buying a new one and having it programmed it out of the question. Any ideas?
That's a tough spot to be in. It kinda sounds like a PCM issues to me, but it's hard to tell without being there in person. PCM issues are very common on these vehicles and are often very costly. I have heard there's a company in Fl that redoes them and sells them much cheaper than a dealership does, but I can't remember their name right now. I hope you are able to figure it out.
@@MCFIXIT thanks I'm thinking it must be the pcm as well. Unfortunately salvage yards refuse to sell them and used ones on ebay are expensive and rebuilt ones are too and require programming. Anyway thanks for answering me.
Best of luck in what you choose to do!
I did all that but my pcm get hot and won't start not more? I can fu d the problem
Great video, I have an 03 town and country lxi 3.8 v6, my issue is that the first time to start it of the day, I have to jump it, while it's hot out I'm good, once it gets cold out, I go to crank it over and it won't crank over till I jump start it again. Do you think my issue is due to the same problem you had? And thank you
My systems were different as described in the video. It might be different bc if the being cold outside seeming to cause your problem. My was not weather dependent. This might work and is pretty easy to do, so I’d try it before taking it in to get worked on.
96 honda accord same problem now think may be worn out key and ignition tumbler. tried a less used crisper cut key and removed all the million other keys off keyring and getting it to start now for couple of weeks. still have fingers crossed when starting it and dont go too far from home. Do you think key was it or ignition tumbler old key issue?
I think it might be the tumbler (ignition cylinder). I know if they are weighted down they can go bad after years of additional weight. Often a worn out key will not allow it to turn at all. Like it will only go in and out, no ability to turn it over. If you do it yourself often the new ignition cylinder will have new key (or keys). I’ve never done one on an Accord but often they are pretty easy to change out with a few tools and I’m sure there’s a video on UA-cam with a good walkthrough! Good luck and hope you figure out the root cause quickly!
@@MCFIXIT Thanks so much for your response and inspiration to try repair myself. Intermittant problems are the pits!
@@cyyoung9175 Yes, they are the worst kind of issues to have because you think you have it fixed and then it isn't. I'd much rather have a consistent problem that can be identified and fixed. Good luck!