I’m glad I found your video. I was fixing a leak at the vcm and also changed the oil with fram filter what the customer provided. Suddenly the code 2646 and 2647 popped up. I went ahead and changed the vcm and the code is still there. I’m going to change to a Mobil 1 filter tomorrow and see if that the problem.
Started getting this last year at about 130k. Car has always had it's oil changes done at 4-5k miles by me. After it happened, I checked the solenoid which was fine with no junk on the screen. Ran an engine flush and the oil and screen were still clean. I'd only get the code after the car warmed up and I came to a stop. Long story short, In the end using 10w40 oil fixed it. My thoughts are that the 5w20 oil just isn't good enough for this car long term.
you didn't fix the issue unofrunetly, all you did was put a band aid on the oil pressure issue or sensor issue. I did the same thing for a couple thousand miles and it fixed the issue but ended up replacing the sensor, after testing it the sensor was definitely the issue. never know when it's going to leave you stranded, it just wasn't save to drive on 3 cylinders in limp mode.
Great video, thank for the effort and time you took to resolve the issues and a great way. Same problem with my, might work with my, hopefully, I'll keep posted.
I have a J-series engine (2012 Acura TL with 131,000 miles). I’ve changed the oil filter, oil, followed by flushing the oil out 1,500 miles later, changed the solenoid, the oil pressure switch and still have P2647. What can I do if the VCM or PCM is faulty? Looking at context clues, this CEL came on after my stock Acura battery failed and corroded. I’ve since changed the battery but yeah still problems. My engine runs fine, just runs rich because of the CEL
Those sensors don’t typically go bad, however the o-rings on the sensors do. Usually the filter inside the vcm will get clogged. To get to it you have to remove the vcm from the engine, Crack her open and change the gasket/filter. Also try using compressed air to blow out any debris inside oil pressure switch. Then run clean oil and filter. I’ve heard claims that seafoam can help clean the carbon deposits inside the vcm system as well but haven’t tried it myself. Carbon build up can lead to the vcm valve sticking open or closed. Hope this helps buddy
put some sort of vcm muzler to see if it fixes the issue, check all ground connections especially the ones close to the battery if you had serious corrosion issue, perform idle relearn before driving. check conncention on the vtech solenoid with voltmeter, check the ohms, sometimes they are faulty right from factory.
It might be the TBTen or valve adjustment on tapping. Low oil pressure sensor, (not switch) might be bad and giving a wrong reading. When they go bad, they make the oil light blink or stay on as it warms up.
ive been dealing with this issue for 10 months (even took to garage $180 to say its oil pump $600 dealer only part + HUNDREDS to lift engine or drop sub frame to replace) yet no oil light etc, changed VTEC solinoid, changed oil & filter, and "was good" for 2400 miles. discovered the VTEC had a crack around the gasket (oriellys warrentied) changed oil/filter AGAIN. still 2646 or 2647 came up. changed the electronics on VTEC ($14 amazon) ans so far FINGERS CROSSED. no issues. it had gotten so bad VSA was coming on in town under 35MPH. its been about 1000 miles??? no issues 04 CRV 4 cyc
@@jessegarcia6310 if I recall, you can but parts separate, but you have to remove the solenoid all the same, easier just to replace entire unit. oriellys was like $90, but its 1/3rd the cost on amazon. for the whole unit. I believe the real issue I was having was the OIL... MUST use synthetic ONLY
Just did the oil change on my odyssey still smells like it’s burning the oil white smoke coming out tailpipe also changed pcv valve and changed the whole Vvt assembly idk what to do anymore
@randyrojas9291 assuming your p2647 is due to oil consumption and when adding oil it does away! Oil usage is trying to be resolved, your main symptom for the oil consumption causing code p2647 is the tail pipe smoking. Which is an indication of valve seal failure! What causes this on honda is valve seals get old from lack of maintenence, oil change interval or just natural wear and tear. When the valve seals leak in the port, it causes oil to accumulate in the port and when you pull off, IT SMOKE! The only fix is to replace valve seals. To isolate the cylinder, pull and inspect the spark plugs, the culprit will have more oil, look fouled and wet black depending on how severe the consumption is. Typically I see cylinder 3 look the worse or the rear bank numbers 1 2 3. Changing the plugs will increase burn efficiency but will not correct your issue! You can change the viscosity and go up in oil weight to slow the smoking down. Like from 5w30 to 10w40, but it'll still smoke. There additives you can add to the oil that will expand the seals over time and "stop" the smoke but these typically don't work! If you decide to try, change the oil with regular 5w30 and add the additive. Drive and cross your fingers! If you have will over 250k, I've had lots of success with 15w40 by rotella used for diesel engines, significantly reducing oil usage and slowing down smoking. But at the end of the day, it's an 80 percent chance you need valve seals!
@randyrojas9291 knocking? Well depending on the pace of the knocking. I think of ticking with honda. Knock it pretty extravagant, but the answer is yes, but only due to loss of oil and thus causing irreparable damage! You may have valve adjustment issues! Without diagnosing, I can't say conclusively
@@partsshooter got it knocking can only be heard when I accelerate and it very faint nothing crazy ok I’m definitely going to take a look at the valve seals and the cylinders to see which one is leaking
having this exact issue on my 06 odyssey 204k mi, shows low pressure 4-6 psi, vcm suck on, random misfire codes, was honestly looking at the screen in the gasket for that pressure sensor and the Vtec solenoid before I saw this video. I bought the van recently from a "Honda guy" but not sure if he used the right viscosity oil or maybe the no name brand filter on there has given up the ghost. More investigation is neccessary I see.
I’ve got an oil pressure gauge inserted in my engine oil pressure port and it reads about 30 at idle hot, but it goes to 100psi by 3000rpm, goes to about 120psi at 4000rpm. Is that normal?
No, it's not normal... your gauge may be uncalibrated, oil pump was modified to increase oil pressure, or an extremely thick oil was added like gear oil 😆. Typically, max pressure is like 80. The rule of thumb with oil pressure is 10psi per every 1000 rpm. With a warm engine, 1000rpm should be 10psi, 2000 will be 20psi etc.
When you buy the tool you get a 1yr subscription update. Once you purchase and do the 1st start up, you need to connect to the internet to register tool. The tool will be link to you only. After the registry, you don't have to use the internet unless you get on it via scan tool. The tool doesn't stop working after a year. I haven't updated my new one in 2yrs. Updates cost depend on tool. Usually around $650 to $1000 if you decide to. But that money can honestly go towards new scan tools We're typically 5yrs behind anyway... if you're at place where you deal with newer cars then keep your Updates regular annually. Just look at tool comparison before you buy. They all aren't equal tools
Did the car come back a week later with the same code? I’ve had this problem intermittently before and did the oil change and it came back a week later and I had to change the vtec solenoid
I’m getting a p2647 code on my 04 Honda Civic but my engine is not equipped with a vtec solenoid. The code is reading a stick rocker arm. Any ideas on this?
@@partsshooter I changed the oil today but no luck with that. I spent a few hours thinking that the previous owner removed the solenoid but come to find out my engine is the one that does not have this. Tomorrow I want to look above the oil filter, I think there is an oil pressure switch / sensor? I’m not 100% sure because I can’t find much information on engines without the vtec solenoid
@@danscreativespace I hate to say but you're gonna need factory compatible data like I have in the video. You need to review the values presented to PCM from necessary sensors. You can bench test the oil pressure switch with an ohm meter and air pressure though. The oil pressure sensor is a varying potential resistor that isn't just in or off like oil pressure switch at oil filter housing. If I recall, the oil switch is used as reference once ACM is active, if I recall!
@@danscreativespace ok, get back with me with your findings. You should only need oil pressure and oil pressure switch. If I get a min I'll look up a refresher, I'm just going off instinct right now with what I'm providing you.
ohhh wow...had the same error on my 09 civic si i hope thats my issue... i checked everything and switch was working... then remembered just now, because of this video, that i had put 0w 20 instead of 5w 30... and yes the error came out after oil change...
I have a honda pilot with the engine doesn't go over 3000 rpm and the engine and the vsa lights come on .I change the vtt valve and the lights go off .after running for about 7 miles stR going down to under 3000 rpm and loosing power again..
I have p2646 on my odyssey rb1(japan) changed solenoid /variable valve/front screen, oil changed frequently about 5000km (5W30) in past 2year, the code is still here when rpm reach 2700. Any idea,please.
You may have to change the viscosity, depending on the millage, the oil pressure may not be sustainable during cylinder deactivation mode because of worn components. Try a 10w/30 if your over 150k engine miles and see if that helps. If you haven't change the complete assembly, you should do so. I know they're expensive but if you're not thoroughly diagnosing it, just replace the entire assembly. Typically it's one of the components. Oil pressure switch or solenoid. Rockauto.com will have it at a responsible price vs part store. Also to assist further, I'll need oil pressure numbers at normal running conditions and data during deactivation...
I have codes P1077,P2646,P0011 on my 2004 automatic, acura rsx it does that bucking thing I hope it’s just the solenoid any help pls ??I also have a video of it
hey there i know i’m a bit late and i hope you can get back to me, i’m having an issue with my j30a4 that i can’t seem to figure out, solenoid has been changed, oils been changed, wirings been professional checked out, the problem is a p2649 code and the car is not engaging vtec and giving me a 3500 rev limiter, is it possible my rocker arm is clogged or stuck in place?
probably late, but i would put a vcm muzler of some kind, if you haven;t done so take off negative battery cable turn the key and headlight on for a minute to drain capacitors, then reconect and leave in on idle for 3 cyles of radiator fan kicking on and off without any electronics or a/c or fans in the cabin running, turn car off for about 15-30 minutes, start and go for a drive.
I’ve done this, but the problem comes back again. I just wanted to share this. keep an eye on that code. My next step is the replace the oil pressure switch on the VTEC unit.
Información Gracias por el video hubiera sido fantastico que mencionaras que aceite traia cuando hiciste el diagnostico y de que viscocidad le pusiste despues para que hubiera mas presion. Saludos desde Saltillo Mexico
I just rebuilt this same engine you working on This code was keep popping every 10 mins. Spend 2 days looking at vvt solenoid but when I see you changed the oil filter it all made since That was exactly what my problem was Good video 👍🏼
He put a new filter on, but the problem was really the viscosity. He did state that possibly there was also an additional issue with the filter having issues not being mattched properly to the oil ; In the end it was wrong viscocity
Those kind of a real particular on the oil on those vtecs at least on my Honda Odyssey takes 5W20 and do not use Lucas it will cause the same issue, Lucas is a very good product I love it but Hondas don't like it. I recommend if you're going to do an engine flush use (1 quart ATF not dexon mercon) let the vehicle idle for 30 minutes. I've been using this stuff all my life it does wonders.
hola estoy teniendo ése mismo problema con mí 2006 Odyssey,ya he comprado dos selenoide,y el carro sigues con mismo código y el fallo igual ya no sé gue mas acer,les agradezco sí me dan una sugerencia,o sí tengo gue cambiar el motor simplemente,.
yes it might be tensioner but had nothing to do with vcm issue especially not the oil pressure issue since it read fine after changing oil anyways. you can't just go straight to oil pump unless you just want to throw random parts at a customer, most of the time it's just a simple fuse.
@MylifeMB I pay... for factory service information. Not sure what justification you need. While you get FREE GOOGLE INFO, I pay monthly. Retain your ideology, doesn't bother me due to the fact I FIX cars. My videos prove this, my reputation proves this. What do you have???
@MylifeMB that's fine... but you're watching my video. go to Scotty kimer channel, he'll appreciate you, respond and care more about your opinion than I. Until then, start your own channel and show us how to fix things. Good luck bro
1.Replace oil filter housing gasket (common leak ) 2. Oil and filter change 3.Replace Oil pressure switch gaskets and O rings Very common on odysseys with high mileage Also the rattling noise could be timing tensioner gettin stuck wich is also very common on these odysseys due to the oil leaks . All very easy to replace , taking care of the oil leaks that are common on these odysseys should get your engine 300,000 + miles easy . Hope this info can help someone God bless 🙌
I have an 06 Honda Odyssey with 272000 That I bought from a Christian with a scanner in his hand 🤔 After driving it for about 10 minutes VSA/ engine light popped on and the engine was shake no power shitty gas mileage. He said he had just change the oil in it after watching a couple videos on UA-cam change the oil w 30 the VSA light would pop on and off mostly on the expressway but not as bad so I knew had something to do with the oil or filter. The oil change place recommended that I use a little thicker oil 5W30 because it has 272,000 Miles so my next oil change I use the right oil 5W20 and I used a wixon oil filter. VSA light fixed the only time it pops up is when the oil gets real dirty. Giving you guys some advice don't buy a vehicle from a Christian Arab or someone that has a scanner in his hand 🤷 🤣😆😂🙏🙏🤗 I
i used to go to late night congregations of hundreds of people with my dad when i was younger. One of those times we rode with a "cristian" car salesman. He mentioned to my dad why the speedometer wasnt working--- he would unplug the speedometer related sensor as to not log more miles on the engine. He would drive many cars like this and not add more mileage to vehicles, thus keeping their price intact. I remember even hearing that somehow they would "revert" the miles on the display. Most of them were not digital at the time, mostly mechanical, like the counters used in events sometimes where you click once for every attendant and the numbers would just rollup. I didnt say a thing but was aphalled that he so confidently and proudly admitted it.
@@partsshooter the only fram filter that is good is the most expensive one everything else is trash especially the one pulled on this video, stick to mobil1 or pay for the high end ffram if you really want fram.
Did the car come back a week later with the same code? I’ve had this problem intermittently before and did the oil change and it came back a week later and I had to change the vtec solenoid
Damn brother. You are bad ass being able to diagnose it just like that! Hard to find mechanics with skill like that.
Just subscribed because this just saved me so much money on repairs.... Thanks to a 3 year old video..... lol
I’m glad I found your video. I was fixing a leak at the vcm and also changed the oil with fram filter what the customer provided. Suddenly the code 2646 and 2647 popped up. I went ahead and changed the vcm and the code is still there. I’m going to change to a Mobil 1 filter tomorrow and see if that the problem.
Did it fix your issue with a new oil filter?
Did you fix it buy changing filter
Started getting this last year at about 130k. Car has always had it's oil changes done at 4-5k miles by me. After it happened, I checked the solenoid which was fine with no junk on the screen. Ran an engine flush and the oil and screen were still clean. I'd only get the code after the car warmed up and I came to a stop.
Long story short, In the end using 10w40 oil fixed it. My thoughts are that the 5w20 oil just isn't good enough for this car long term.
you didn't fix the issue unofrunetly, all you did was put a band aid on the oil pressure issue or sensor issue. I did the same thing for a couple thousand miles and it fixed the issue but ended up replacing the sensor, after testing it the sensor was definitely the issue. never know when it's going to leave you stranded, it just wasn't save to drive on 3 cylinders in limp mode.
Great video, thank for the effort and time you took to resolve the issues and a great way. Same problem with my, might work with my, hopefully, I'll keep posted.
I have a J-series engine (2012 Acura TL with 131,000 miles). I’ve changed the oil filter, oil, followed by flushing the oil out 1,500 miles later, changed the solenoid, the oil pressure switch and still have P2647. What can I do if the VCM or PCM is faulty? Looking at context clues, this CEL came on after my stock Acura battery failed and corroded. I’ve since changed the battery but yeah still problems. My engine runs fine, just runs rich because of the CEL
Those sensors don’t typically go bad, however the o-rings on the sensors do. Usually the filter inside the vcm will get clogged. To get to it you have to remove the vcm from the engine, Crack her open and change the gasket/filter. Also try using compressed air to blow out any debris inside oil pressure switch. Then run clean oil and filter. I’ve heard claims that seafoam can help clean the carbon deposits inside the vcm system as well but haven’t tried it myself. Carbon build up can lead to the vcm valve sticking open or closed. Hope this helps buddy
put some sort of vcm muzler to see if it fixes the issue, check all ground connections especially the ones close to the battery if you had serious corrosion issue, perform idle relearn before driving. check conncention on the vtech solenoid with voltmeter, check the ohms, sometimes they are faulty right from factory.
@@brianbacich9999The Acura TL never used VCM. Acura went against because it dulls the engine. So only the V6 equipped Hondas have it.
@@MylifeMBHis year Acura doesn’t use VCM. For 2009-2014 years Acura didn’t like the system because it really dulls the engine and causes issues.
@ahmetletif1822 - I’m having the same issue with my 4th-Gen Acura TL). Did you ever fix the issue?
It might be the TBTen or valve adjustment on tapping. Low oil pressure sensor, (not switch) might be bad and giving a wrong reading. When they go bad, they make the oil light blink or stay on as it warms up.
ive been dealing with this issue for 10 months (even took to garage $180 to say its oil pump $600 dealer only part + HUNDREDS to lift engine or drop sub frame to replace) yet no oil light etc, changed VTEC solinoid, changed oil & filter, and "was good" for 2400 miles. discovered the VTEC had a crack around the gasket (oriellys warrentied) changed oil/filter AGAIN. still 2646 or 2647 came up. changed the electronics on VTEC ($14 amazon) ans so far FINGERS CROSSED. no issues. it had gotten so bad VSA was coming on in town under 35MPH. its been about 1000 miles??? no issues 04 CRV 4 cyc
What do you mean that changing the electronic on vtec ??? I been having the same problem
@@jessegarcia6310 if I recall, you can but parts separate, but you have to remove the solenoid all the same, easier just to replace entire unit. oriellys was like $90, but its 1/3rd the cost on amazon. for the whole unit. I believe the real issue I was having was the OIL... MUST use synthetic ONLY
What do you mean “VTEC had a crack?” And what electronic part did you change? And do you have a V6 Honda/Acura?
Just did the oil change on my odyssey still smells like it’s burning the oil white smoke coming out tailpipe also changed pcv valve and changed the whole Vvt assembly idk what to do anymore
Any recommendations?
@randyrojas9291 assuming your p2647 is due to oil consumption and when adding oil it does away! Oil usage is trying to be resolved, your main symptom for the oil consumption causing code p2647 is the tail pipe smoking. Which is an indication of valve seal failure!
What causes this on honda is valve seals get old from lack of maintenence, oil change interval or just natural wear and tear. When the valve seals leak in the port, it causes oil to accumulate in the port and when you pull off, IT SMOKE!
The only fix is to replace valve seals. To isolate the cylinder, pull and inspect the spark plugs, the culprit will have more oil, look fouled and wet black depending on how severe the consumption is. Typically I see cylinder 3 look the worse or the rear bank numbers 1 2 3.
Changing the plugs will increase burn efficiency but will not correct your issue!
You can change the viscosity and go up in oil weight to slow the smoking down. Like from 5w30 to 10w40, but it'll still smoke.
There additives you can add to the oil that will expand the seals over time and "stop" the smoke but these typically don't work! If you decide to try, change the oil with regular 5w30 and add the additive. Drive and cross your fingers!
If you have will over 250k, I've had lots of success with 15w40 by rotella used for diesel engines, significantly reducing oil usage and slowing down smoking.
But at the end of the day, it's an 80 percent chance you need valve seals!
@@partsshooter so would these valve seals also cause any slight knocking due to how fast the oil is being consumed
@randyrojas9291 knocking? Well depending on the pace of the knocking. I think of ticking with honda. Knock it pretty extravagant, but the answer is yes, but only due to loss of oil and thus causing irreparable damage! You may have valve adjustment issues! Without diagnosing, I can't say conclusively
@@partsshooter got it knocking can only be heard when I accelerate and it very faint nothing crazy ok I’m definitely going to take a look at the valve seals and the cylinders to see which one is leaking
having this exact issue on my 06 odyssey 204k mi, shows low pressure 4-6 psi, vcm suck on, random misfire codes, was honestly looking at the screen in the gasket for that pressure sensor and the Vtec solenoid before I saw this video. I bought the van recently from a "Honda guy" but not sure if he used the right viscosity oil or maybe the no name brand filter on there has given up the ghost. More investigation is neccessary I see.
I’ve got an oil pressure gauge inserted in my engine oil pressure port and it reads about 30 at idle hot, but it goes to 100psi by 3000rpm, goes to about 120psi at 4000rpm. Is that normal?
No, it's not normal... your gauge may be uncalibrated, oil pump was modified to increase oil pressure, or an extremely thick oil was added like gear oil 😆.
Typically, max pressure is like 80. The rule of thumb with oil pressure is 10psi per every 1000 rpm. With a warm engine, 1000rpm should be 10psi, 2000 will be 20psi etc.
sounds like a bad gauge or you are running gear oil LOL why do you have an oil pressure gauge in the first place? sounds sus LOL
Do you need to get a subscription for this ms906bt scanner ? Will it work without the subscription in full capacity? Thank you in advanced.
When you buy the tool you get a 1yr subscription update. Once you purchase and do the 1st start up, you need to connect to the internet to register tool. The tool will be link to you only.
After the registry, you don't have to use the internet unless you get on it via scan tool. The tool doesn't stop working after a year. I haven't updated my new one in 2yrs.
Updates cost depend on tool. Usually around $650 to $1000 if you decide to. But that money can honestly go towards new scan tools
We're typically 5yrs behind anyway... if you're at place where you deal with newer cars then keep your Updates regular annually.
Just look at tool comparison before you buy. They all aren't equal tools
Great video !!! Thanks for the help.
Did the car come back a week later with the same code? I’ve had this problem intermittently before and did the oil change and it came back a week later and I had to change the vtec solenoid
I’m getting a p2647 code on my 04 Honda Civic but my engine is not equipped with a vtec solenoid. The code is reading a stick rocker arm. Any ideas on this?
What have you checked already?
@@partsshooter I changed the oil today but no luck with that. I spent a few hours thinking that the previous owner removed the solenoid but come to find out my engine is the one that does not have this. Tomorrow I want to look above the oil filter, I think there is an oil pressure switch / sensor? I’m not 100% sure because I can’t find much information on engines without the vtec solenoid
@@danscreativespace I hate to say but you're gonna need factory compatible data like I have in the video. You need to review the values presented to PCM from necessary sensors.
You can bench test the oil pressure switch with an ohm meter and air pressure though.
The oil pressure sensor is a varying potential resistor that isn't just in or off like oil pressure switch at oil filter housing.
If I recall, the oil switch is used as reference once ACM is active, if I recall!
@@partsshooter thanks! I have a blue driver scanner that I think can report live data
@@danscreativespace ok, get back with me with your findings. You should only need oil pressure and oil pressure switch. If I get a min I'll look up a refresher, I'm just going off instinct right now with what I'm providing you.
ohhh wow...had the same error on my 09 civic si i hope thats my issue... i checked everything and switch was working... then remembered just now, because of this video, that i had put 0w 20 instead of 5w 30... and yes the error came out after oil change...
I have a honda pilot with the engine doesn't go over 3000 rpm and the engine and the vsa lights come on .I change the vtt valve and the lights go off .after running for about 7 miles stR going down to under 3000 rpm and loosing power again..
check injectors, had same issue. if not battery.
I have p2646 on my odyssey rb1(japan) changed solenoid /variable valve/front screen, oil changed frequently about 5000km (5W30) in past 2year, the code is still here when rpm reach 2700. Any idea,please.
You may have to change the viscosity, depending on the millage, the oil pressure may not be sustainable during cylinder deactivation mode because of worn components. Try a 10w/30 if your over 150k engine miles and see if that helps.
If you haven't change the complete assembly, you should do so. I know they're expensive but if you're not thoroughly diagnosing it, just replace the entire assembly. Typically it's one of the components. Oil pressure switch or solenoid.
Rockauto.com will have it at a responsible price vs part store.
Also to assist further, I'll need oil pressure numbers at normal running conditions and data during deactivation...
I have codes P1077,P2646,P0011 on my 2004 automatic, acura rsx it does that bucking thing I hope it’s just the solenoid any help pls ??I also have a video of it
I saw your video and responded
hey there i know i’m a bit late and i hope you can get back to me, i’m having an issue with my j30a4 that i can’t seem to figure out, solenoid has been changed, oils been changed, wirings been professional checked out, the problem is a p2649 code and the car is not engaging vtec and giving me a 3500 rev limiter, is it possible my rocker arm is clogged or stuck in place?
probably late, but i would put a vcm muzler of some kind, if you haven;t done so take off negative battery cable turn the key and headlight on for a minute to drain capacitors, then reconect and leave in on idle for 3 cyles of radiator fan kicking on and off without any electronics or a/c or fans in the cabin running, turn car off for about 15-30 minutes, start and go for a drive.
I’ve done this, but the problem comes back again. I just wanted to share this. keep an eye on that code. My next step is the replace the oil pressure switch on the VTEC unit.
My 06 odessey due the same issue. I replaced the vvtc valve the code back again 😢
What VTEC unit?
Información Gracias por el video hubiera sido fantastico que mencionaras que aceite traia cuando hiciste el diagnostico y de que viscocidad le pusiste despues para que hubiera mas presion. Saludos desde Saltillo Mexico
Si muestra cual es la viscocidad de aceite que le pusieron en walmart. Era 0-20. Ese fue el problema.
Thank you!! I did the same mistake. Used 0W instead of 5W oil and got the code. Great video.
I just rebuilt this same engine you working on
This code was keep popping every 10 mins.
Spend 2 days looking at vvt solenoid but when I see you changed the oil filter it all made since
That was exactly what my problem was
Good video 👍🏼
He put a new filter on, but the problem was really the viscosity. He did state that possibly there was also an additional issue with the filter having issues not being mattched properly to the oil ; In the end it was wrong viscocity
Those kind of a real particular on the oil on those vtecs at least on my Honda Odyssey takes 5W20 and do not use Lucas it will cause the same issue, Lucas is a very good product I love it but Hondas don't like it.
I recommend if you're going to do an engine flush use (1 quart ATF not dexon mercon) let the vehicle idle for 30 minutes.
I've been using this stuff all my life it does wonders.
Thanks my guy 👍👍
What kind of scanner you have?
Autel ms906bt
hola estoy teniendo ése mismo problema con mí 2006 Odyssey,ya he comprado dos selenoide,y el carro sigues con mismo código y el fallo igual ya no sé gue mas acer,les agradezco sí me dan una sugerencia,o sí tengo gue cambiar el motor simplemente,.
Y si la arreglo
Good video informative and through
Hello, very interesting and informational video! What kind of OBD tool you are using? Thank you in advanced?
Likely that was ms906bt by autel
@@partsshooter Thank you.
I know that Noise anywhere, its the timing belt tensioner :) also just replace the oil pump and adjust the Valves and she will be perfect!
yes it might be tensioner but had nothing to do with vcm issue especially not the oil pressure issue since it read fine after changing oil anyways. you can't just go straight to oil pump unless you just want to throw random parts at a customer, most of the time it's just a simple fuse.
Running your videos
nice fix
0w20 was correct. got ody with over 250k miles, been using 0w20 for 10 years.
@@MylifeMB 5w20 come in vehicle. Not 0w20
@@partsshooter you might want to do more research.
@MylifeMB I pay... for factory service information. Not sure what justification you need. While you get FREE GOOGLE INFO, I pay monthly. Retain your ideology, doesn't bother me due to the fact I FIX cars. My videos prove this, my reputation proves this. What do you have???
@@partsshooter i don't trust a mechaninc that doesn't know the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 oil LOL
@MylifeMB that's fine... but you're watching my video.
go to Scotty kimer channel, he'll appreciate you, respond and care more about your opinion than I. Until then, start your own channel and show us how to fix things. Good luck bro
The noise your hearing is from the timing chain slapping the side due to the tensioner becoming loose.
😆
That’s a timing belt motor
😂
You don't know about v6 Hondas huh
Which is the correct oil?
5w/30 is great overall on a higher millage engine.
@@partsshooter A mechanic put me 15w40 racing oil not sintetic and I have the code of rocker armer
@@ximeee1011 the thick oil can slow the flow, I had that happen before, put a new filter and 5w30
@@partsshooter I have bad the knock sensor after that it turns on the check engine vsa and fails and scans throws rocker armor and knock sensor
@@ximeee1011 if it wasn't there before repair, suspect human error and recheck work
1.Replace oil filter housing gasket (common leak )
2. Oil and filter change
3.Replace Oil pressure switch gaskets and O rings
Very common on odysseys with high mileage
Also the rattling noise could be timing tensioner gettin stuck wich is also very common on these odysseys due to the oil leaks .
All very easy to replace , taking care of the oil leaks that are common on these odysseys should get your engine 300,000 + miles easy .
Hope this info can help someone God bless 🙌
hola ya he echo ésos pasos y nada a un,el carro sigue igual con el mismo fallo sin fuerzas no se gue mas acer
Is it rattling ?
I have an 06 Honda Odyssey with 272000
That I bought from a Christian with a scanner in his hand 🤔
After driving it for about 10 minutes VSA/ engine light popped on and the engine was shake no power shitty gas mileage.
He said he had just change the oil in it after watching a couple videos on UA-cam change the oil w 30 the VSA light would pop on and off mostly on the expressway but not as bad so I knew had something to do with the oil or filter.
The oil change place recommended that I use a little thicker oil 5W30 because it has 272,000 Miles so my next oil change I use the right oil 5W20 and I used a wixon oil filter.
VSA light fixed the only time it pops up is when the oil gets real dirty.
Giving you guys some advice don't buy a vehicle from a Christian Arab or someone that has a scanner in his hand 🤷
🤣😆😂🙏🙏🤗
I
i used to go to late night congregations of hundreds of people with my dad when i was younger. One of those times we rode with a "cristian" car salesman. He mentioned to my dad why the speedometer wasnt working--- he would unplug the speedometer related sensor as to not log more miles on the engine.
He would drive many cars like this and not add more mileage to vehicles, thus keeping their price intact. I remember even hearing that somehow they would "revert" the miles on the display. Most of them were not digital at the time, mostly mechanical, like the counters used in events sometimes where you click once for every attendant and the numbers would just rollup.
I didnt say a thing but was aphalled that he so confidently and proudly admitted it.
FRAM filter 😠
Why frame a bad reputation? Is it better or worse than a house brand filter?
@@partsshooter Check some oil filters comparison clips on UA-cam. I won't touch it.
@@partsshooter the only fram filter that is good is the most expensive one everything else is trash especially the one pulled on this video, stick to mobil1 or pay for the high end ffram if you really want fram.
Read a little bit about, to be able to talk.
Elaborate on your comment.... What are you in opposition of?
This dude rambles and says nothing. Video is useless
Did the car come back a week later with the same code? I’ve had this problem intermittently before and did the oil change and it came back a week later and I had to change the vtec solenoid
As of now, I know the car was sold a while ago. They didn't wanna install an engine.