If you want your ditital photos to look more like film then why not try my go to lightroom preset, available here - www.lucylumen.com/shop/p/lucys-warm-film-preset
Thank you! I’ll go give it a watch! By the way, welcome to the incredible world of street photography! It’s truly amazing to see you giving this art form the attention it deserves. A lot of folks don’t quite grasp its essence or take the time to experience it fully. I remember you mentioning your serene beachy area, not as bustling as Sydney, but every place has its own unique charm. I reside in the serene town of Benicia, California, and I understand the beauty of finding hidden treasures in seemingly quiet places, just like you are doing. Embrace the subtle details of your surroundings, the people, the history, and the architecture, and you’ll uncover unexpected beauty. Keep exploring, my friend. You’ll be surprised by the stories your lens captures. Keep up the great work! -Ken
Hello Lucy. I am a follower who loves your channel. Since you've asked for help, here's some advice from a veteran street photographer: since you shoot digital, look for a smaller, more discreet camera. Please turn off the front focus assist light (oh, take the opportunity to turn off all the sound). Although you have mentioned that you like the mystery in the photos with the subject's back, it is something we have all gone through when starting out due to the fear of facing each other. You must work on that fear now and you will improve a lot by incorporating facial expressions and gestures. Hope this can help you. All the best
Spot on advice and picked up the points I noticed . One of the ways to build your confidence would be to shoot in an environment that calls to you . That could be bridge that people walk over to shooting faces through windows . When somebody notices you , smile and feel free to ask somebody if they mind if take their portrait. Before they can say no, show them photos from your instagram gallery . Keeping a camera on you at all times is a great way to capture golden moments on the go . We all can do that these days with our phones . When attending events there are loads of opportunities to take photos from all angles and increase those with faces. If you feel confident you will see the photo and will take it instantly . It is best to shoot on preset focus etc set up on the camera and then refocus and correct exposure . Shooting jpeg and plus raw is a good idea. Finally , I mainly shoot jpeg these days . Whether using phone or camera , everything is processed on my phone using Snapseed and posted to Instagram . I also produce several photo-books each year .
Looping in, I’d like to share one piece of advice few people fall into: become an expert of your preferred spots. The rest pieces are easily available to all but this one is not shared oftenly.
That’s great advice !! I would also add, if you can try to talk to people if they are open to it. As a street photographer you get to see so many cultures blend and sometimes people are more at ease when you talk to them about their life, this also helps you build rapport and in that, it can help you get some insight and some pretty good photos. It takes time, a lot of time. But it’s fun and rewarding when you’ve taken something you can hang up on a wall and be proud of. Best of luck out there in the streets l.
I have been a photographer for years, and you’re the first woman I’ve ever heard discuss the issue of taking photos of people without their consent, or how creepy and invasive it can feel when someone sticks a camera in your face, snaps a photo, and moves away without so much as a hello. Thank you for saying it. I do what some call urban landscape photography, others call street photography for introverts. It satisfies that desire to document my landscape without having to involve others.
I love street photography! For me, I love capturing people in the act of just living, not modeling. Much of the time, I will "shoot from the hip", literally holding the camera at down as if I am not taking a pic. I only shoot digital, so it is okay if some of the shots don't work out. My personal favorite focal length is around 40mm equivalent. I like how it gives me a bit wider image, but still gives me intimate results.
A great way to introduce people in your street photography without being obvious is learning the Zone Focus technique. Being that you shoot Nikon and many older cameras that have manual features like the Ai and D series lenses that have focus scales etched on the lens themselves. Choosing the average distance of subjects you want to capture, set you aperture [preferably mid range] and focsing distance range according to your aperture setting, you can simply shoot from the hip without having to always put the camera up to your eye. This makes it discrete and less obvious that you are shooting a photo of someone. You will soon learn camera fade tricks that makes it look like you are Not shooting or doing something else with the camera when in fact you are being creative with timing your shot... all this is possible with Zone Focusing technique.
Settings: Turn off focus light and focus confirmation sounds. Shutter Speed of 1/320 on darker days, and 1/400s or 1/500s on normal light days, set under Minimum Shutter Speed. Let the ISO go AUTO. Use Aperture Priority. Set focus point on back of screen where you want to subject to be, or is at the time of pulling the trigger. Use +1/3 or more against the light, and -1/3 or more if light is to your backside and you are getting indication of clipping, or just feel that subjects or the scene will be washed-out. Position self to be able to get something looking good in background, as the foreground lines up with what you need. Smaller and light cameras, like the Lumix GX9 with a wrist-strap, make for a good carry. Have fun, Loren Schwiderski
Love, love this!! This is so brilliant! I think street photography is something that constantly evolves with style and technique and that’s what makes it so exciting and appealing. After doing it for about a year in Manhattan during my office commute I feel like I’m more like Bill Cunningham grabbing candid expressions and outfits rather than complicated layering like Meyerowitz, Wisecup, Winnogrand, etc which is way beyond my skills. But always trying and getting out there.. I’ve found if you appear friendly and transparent with your intentions and have a compliment ready if someone confronts you, 99% of the time it’s a friendly interaction. Also I tend to keep the camera up to my eye after I take the shot so it’s not so obvious or shoot from the hip! And thanks for the Andre Wagner info, he is so incredible. You’re off to an amazing start, thanks for sharing your journey with us! Go Lucy Go!! 😊
The hardest part of street photography is two fold: overcoming the fear of someone confronting you if you take a shot, and then trying to get something interesting on top of that. Starting on digital is a very good way to start, as you can be freer to make mistakes, without the added nagging in the back of the mind about how much film costs by comparison. Every photographer is different, so you will find your niche eventually. If you haven't or do not watch Allan Schaller's channel, I highly recommend you do. The latest episode specifically talks about zone focusing and he's master at it.
I think it's really great you want to shoot Street Photography using longer lenses. Saul Leiter used longer focal-length lenses for his street work (he too is known for his color). His style stands out from the typical 28mm focal length that Garry Winogrand and the majority of today's street shooters opt for. I think your use of color and tighter crops will translate well in the street photography genre.
Streets is a very difficult genre in my opinion. Story telling is the most important part and I have been trying for over 2 years. Keep it up as it’s very rewarding in the long term 😊
It's always good to have another street shooter. My main bit of advice is something Reuben Radding told me which is to try to avoid a ton of back shots. I know it's scary at first to but a back really has very little information and I feel like people do it to avoid confrontation or conflict but I say own what you're doing you're not doing anything wrong. I'd also recommend looking at the masters Eggleston, HCB, Moriyama, Klein, Arbus, Atget, Friedlander, Webb, Parks, et al. Involving yourself into the canon of photography is an extremely worthwhile pursuit. I def think experimenting with focal lengths is vital. I've tried longer focal lengths and found it actually made me feel like a creepy sniper shooting people from far away. I'd rather be in the middle of things shooting with a 35 or 28 mixing it up. Also there's a look to a long focal length that makes people just seem isolated and sad which could be a look you go for! And one last rec is to try a smaller camera. The DSLR is just intimidating to a lot of people. I personally like rangerfinder style cameras so I shoot with those and I will actually just get a lot of compliments on my cameras which disarms people and makes you seem less intimidating which can be a good thing on the street. Anyways have fun!
Advice I can give to grow confidence is you just have to keep going out and shooting street, the more you do it the more your confidence will grow. I think this falls more into the documentary band but going to events like street parties or Protests and shooting there will help too, as people expect to see photographers capturing the event so you don't really have that fear of getting told off and it will help grow a comfort being around people in public shooting. Also advice with shooting with people, I always find my best shots come when shooting alone but being around others helps you a lot, you get to see how other people approach it and see what they do that might help you get the shot. Also just helps you stay out later as you have someone to talk to and have a laugh with when you don't feel like shooting (is just more fun in general) but what I found what works for is going somewhere with them shooting a bit together then just splitting off doing your own thing for a bit and then meeting again later on.
I struggle with street photography, definitely out of my element. But the few times I have done it, have gone out with photographer friends and have enjoyed the experience a lot more. Talking about photography and taking photos with like minded people, makes for a great day out.
Nikon NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR AF-P Lens , Trust me for street photography and isolation , wides, fun and stopping anxiety. 70 is just wide enough on a apc to get a bit of everything but keeping a comfortable distance and 300 mm lets you have full control of whats in you photo !! and zooming in and out and still getting sharp images is great !
So cool that you like Street. I stumbled on the genre in 2012 after taking a photography class. The quirkiness and fun side attracted me. I'm an introvert, so it was scary, but I love it. I first started with a Fuji X-100T, but found the 23mm limiting. Some random thoughts: don't worry about what is and isn't street; I settled on a small zoom 18-55mm on fuji X-T20; mostly f5.6; I don't understand using film for street (I'm 77YO, so I once shot film); I think people do not freak as much when women shoot street; don't listen to "what makes a good street photo", because you'll create your own style. I'm looking forward to more.
Also, find the D200. Jpeg, L, Fine, HIGH NR is how you get film like grain set to 3200 ISO (Hi 1.0). AWD -1. You'll want a filter with at least -5 to -7 stops of adjustments so you can get all of the lens aperture if you have an f1.8 lens during the day.
My photography teacher is making us take pictures of strangers on the street. Ive been nervous about it. But this video helped me. Im excited to try and get some good pictures.
Roman Fox and Gareth Danks are my go to UA-camrs for practical advice on street photography, as well as photography in general. Also, both use Fujifilm cameras, and I own a Fujifilm x100F, and I’m considering an XT5. I also own and use an Olympus OM-2, which is how I landed on your channel!
“If your photo’s not good enough, you’re not close enough.” Try 35 or 28mm (fullframe), different experience. Agreed on the “people are not needed”. Use your own style, always.
That canonet QL17 that you have is a blast to shoot with. It was my first 35mm film camera. It took me a while to get used to because I was so used to shooting at low apertures with my digital camera that I was struggling to nail focus with the QL17. I feel like I only started to appreciate how easy it is to shoot with when I started shooting more around f5.6-11. It suddenly all clicked for me mentally
The heart of "street photography" is telling stories about the human condition, everything else is just a trend. The street guys I followed and know from LA 20 years ago only shot tri-x and Leicas...but the best cared little about that and the most successful told timeless stories about the human condition. Some were up in your face, some preferred to be ghosts, but their goal was to observe humans where they were and tell stories about what they saw, and the best showed you who they were by the stories they told, not by a brand, fashion statement, trope or clique. I hope you have fun and can't wait to see where your street journey goes. I've been doing this for a bit now, and crazily am trying to do it with a Polaroid SX-70...and my advice is listen to what you want to say, first pick out the things that intrigue you, observe, try not to rely on your tropes, and be okay with being uncomfortable, so long as it's in service of telling your story. You'll hate the stuff you've done last week, then last month, then last year, but if you stick with it, you WILL find you have a collection of stories that have a common thread, and that's the moment of freedom for a street photographer.
Love all the street photography channels you mentioned. As a photographer, I like to try my hand at every genre. I did some wildlife photography recently and quickly found out how difficult it is.
OMG there are so many comments here I'm not sure if this has been said but the best tip I've received is DON'T MAKE EYE CONTACT with your subject. Seems a bit unnatural at first but now I go unnoticed like 80% of the time. Or, making sure sounds and lights are off, act like you're making a video and then quietly click and keep moving the camera. People don't seem to mind being on video as much as being in a photograph. I also use zone focusing and a mixture of EVF, screen or just point-and-shooting. Not so much 'from the hip' as this feels a bit sneaky to me. Parades/protests are great places to practice. Oh, and absolutely bring your own style. For me that's the whole point.
Here’s a thought for you Lucy as a film shooter, next time you go out limit yourself to just 36 shots. One of the temptations with digital is to bang off frame after frame and then cull. Nup. Keep on keeping on✌️
That was an excellent video presentation. I really appreciate how you shared your thought process as well as your nervousness about undertaking a new photographic genre. I cannot wait to see your next. video covering this topic. Please keep up the wonderful work. 😎
Thank you so much! This is such a lovely comment. I am working on another video now that involves some street photography so keep an eye out. Thanks again for the nice words and for watching too!
Lucy, the only advice I’d give you is even though you’re doing street photography, that should not be a reason to change your style of shooting. You have a unique style and you shooting like how you do produced amazing images. Even when it’s street photography. Just be you and you’d do great. Love from Ghana 🇬🇭
I am a fan of street photography. I have dabbled in it myself. But the thing that I am always unsure about is the ethics part of it. Some of my favourite photographers' work seems in that grey zone of documenting stuff and being intrusive. I mean, I understand you are out in the open, in the public, so you can't really control what other people do, but isn't their something like not wanting to be photographed ? Again, I'm not saying this as a Diss on street photography. Just a thought I have me mulling over. Last month, my brother was in the hospital for a few days before he sadly passed away. Me, my brother and nieces would make frequent trips to the hospital on the underground/subway, and we were crying and looking glum throughout those journeys. I bet some or even some of my favourites would love to document our sad moment. But in my personal opinion, it feels intrusive. But I guess I am overthinking. It is like I love the idea of street photography so much, but still, a lot of the pictures make me uncomfortable. Maybe that is the introvert in me speaking 😊
Hello Lucy , just one more heads up on street photography , I use either a Nikon 16-85 mm or a Nikon 18-200 mm for street photography , let's face it no one's going to know the lens used on the photograph & a multi focal length lens opens so many doors & offers huge amount of photography versatility when your out there on the street , the most important aspect is capturing that image , any fixed focal length lens has a lot of limitations on the street trust me , the Nikon 16-85 is obviously the smaller out of the two lenses , so that may be more convenient in terms of carrying it around , if you attach a Nikon 16-85mm to your D7100 your good to go rest assured , you can add a little sharpness in post , but most of street photography isn't so much about sharpness . Everyone has their preferences with their focal length lens & fair enough , personally with street photography , I would never of captured half the images on street photography without the variable focal length lens , I have all the prime lenses too , but I hardly ever use them , I just keep them for the studio or specific location photoshoots . Another heads up is street security , ideally it's best if your with a partner out there on the street , be aware of your surroundings & carry a camera holster so you can quickly holster the camera if need be , I wear my camera holster with the strap across the chest / under the arm so the holster is to the left side of my torso , this way no one can snatch the camera as it's round the neck & under the arm , you can just also position the holster to your front if need be & just keep the camera face down in the holster for when just browsing around , it's easy enough to pull out the camera quickly when you need it & the holster lid is useful if it rains too , I recommend Lowepro TLZ 1 camera holster for your set up . This sort of information isn't in books & it's difficult to explain , but it's a must have for street photography . There's a lot of walking with Street photography , so the above set up will be ideal in all situations & weather conditions .
It's tough to do street, then get a closeup of a flower or figurine in a window..."ooh, that reflection is cool...wait, let me go wide angle sideview to get this cool building...", then back to street. It's even tougher when you are in 1/100 of a second but see someone on a scooter that looks cool. BAM! Blurry photo because you couldn't get 1/500 dialed in quickly enough. So, street will make you a much better photographer in general and will set you up nicely for portraits, ie breaking the ice, figuring out which lens works best for people, and getting a grasp on lighting of and distance away from subjects. Great to see you spaning out. Good luck!
I've been shooting street for a few years but here in Omaha there are not a lot of opportunities to shoot all over the city and have the streets packed with people so I have to mix in Urban Landscape shots just to stay in the flow. I do try to find parades, political rallies, large events that are happening in the city so I have more subjects to shoot. Love that you're getting into street photography, and I'm very much looking forward to more street content from you🤘
I realized that my 5 star keepers for street photography is mostly with my little daughter as the main subject exploring streets. Nobody feels disturbed, because it is a natural situation (papa taking pictures of his kid). Even staging a scene is kind of "semi-natural": "darling, would you be so kind and walk from here to there?". So street photography and family documentary can be very complementary.
I loved your video. I completely agree with your point of view on using digital for street photography film is too expensive to be wasting shots 😅 tbh. Personally I prefer film for studio work anyway
A little more advice: shoot wide, like 28mm equivalent or even wider, but generally crop 1:1 to rein that in. If you don't, you'll find your wide photos are just a waist on either side anyway. Hey, crop in post if that happens. And generally, if shooting wide, get in real close to your subjects. Enjoy!
You need a Df if you're shooting Nikon digital. It's a beautiful looking camera but unlike the newer Zf and Zfc you get the benefit of the F mount and all those lenses.
When i shoot street i typically look for dynamic shadows and lighting to amplify and tell the story i want to tell. Also sitting somewhere for a while and being patient for that interesting subject to walk into the scene is a good practice too.
Just found your channel! Wanted to say Hi! and that your style of minimalistic "street" photos really speaks to me. I usually end up shooting this style myself. I really like looking for lines, shadows, and textures that play well in compositions. Explore any style you want, but you should know those "Lucy Lumen" style photos absolutely rock!
Hello Lucy , really nice photography , I shoot street photography , I mainly shoot photos from the hip , the moment I bring the camera to my eye everyone becomes paranoid & it kills the scene dead in it's tracks , you get used to the angle of hip photography & you can always crop in , your Nikon D7100 is a good camera for that hence 25MP , as I also shoot on a D 7100 & a D800 . Seriously believe it or not you will achieve amazing results just by shooting at waist level , & besides a TLR Rolleiflex 120 camera is often shot from waist level ,it just takes practice & lets face it look at the amazing results of Vivian Mayor using the TLR Rolleiflex camera at waist level angle ! , the trick is to point the camera at the subjects direction & look away , it's like covert photography , to begin with I wouldn't suggest using film , unless you actually have a TLR camera of course , digital is fine & on full frame you can just level or crop everything in post . Of course there are times when I bring the camera to eye level , it's a luxury I find , but it's not often I have the privilege of framing with the eye , I find it's easier to frame with the eye using a longer lens as I can then simply blend in the background . There's waist shot's you'll never get by using the eye , if you can master waist shots you won't look back & it will be another string to your bow rest assured . I really like your photography Lucy & I also like the way that your really up together with everything & more power to you .
Lots of great advice here for everyone. The only thing I would add is that you might want to try a more tourist-oriented area where people taking photos is already a common sight. I also find that tourists are often more willing to have their photo taken then residents because residents are often trying to get somewhere or do something ie get to work, etc
What worked for me about being nervous: Focus on the scene. Like architectur photography with a human in the frame. If people come across and you are here already, they will think: oh she makes a picture of the mall, stairs, whatever and they just walk through your frame. Some of them will apologize or stop and wait for you until you´re finished, then just tell them: no problem, just go ahead.
50mm is the easiest geometry, easy composition and avoids distortion. The 35mm and 28mm includes more, and might be best if in tight, as in a busy city. But when you need less to worry about, or the long reach of across a street, the 50mm to 90mm is great. I am trying to go wider and wider, as in closer and closer, but in small towns it is a challenge. Hey, there we go, a challenge. Henri Cartier-Bresson shot mostly at 50mm, but I hear later maybe the 28mm. I think he might have liked the geometry and forgiving nature of 50mm when composing. Currently I am trying my best using a 15mm Leica MFT lens on my Lumix GX-9 -- so yea, 30mm equivalent.
Thanks, inspiring! It is so easy to forget your own work in the hunt for god knows what. For me at least. I think taking the time and sit down with your own photos and sort them out is very good and a key to find your strength and weaknesses - and move on.
Excellent upload. Welcome to the party. Advice: Keep on going, you clearly already know what you're looking for, don't let anyone sway you from that on your streetphotography journey. Just continue to be you!… LL on da streets!… Props! 🙏🏿
I've found that using a mirrorless camera and just using the LCD and holding the camera so when you see finding is a flick of the wrist. I found trying to move your camera to your eye is slower. Unless you are shoots with a telephoto lens.
Great video, Lucy! This may sound like obvious advice, but the best way to improve as a street photographer is to just consistently go out and shoot. Street photography is a very instinctual artform, and it takes time to figure out what kinds of photos you want to take. As far as focal lengths go, I think this depends on where you're going to shoot. If you're in a crowded city center, then a 28mm or 35mm lens is ideal, but longer focal lengths like 50 or 85 are not unheard of in street photography. Sean Tucker's channel is a great resource for street photography (and photography in general), and he even has a video on focal lengths that I enjoyed. There's also Tatiana Hopper, who does a lot of profiles of famous photographers if you're looking for inspiration or a direction of where to go. Highly recommend both channels!
I also like to photograph interesting footwear, especially on subways and trams. I can see it. Street photography is absolutely easier in crowded areas. Tilt screens and small cameras can help.
I don't shoot film but to be honest I find mf3 cameras great for street I also have a Nikon D7200 which I bought new at the time. I use the 16 - 85 f3.5-5.6 ED VR DX lens which give great versatility and can now be bought used cheaply now I don't think it's made any more. I've also used it for landscapes in the past. In spite of all the talk about Fuji, I think the Nikon D7000 series of cameras are probate best and easiest to use crop sensor cameras ever made. I shoot RAW Best of look with your street - you're getting there 📷👍
I love the fact that you like to feature a specific colour in your work. In my work it is orange and yellow for some reason. Did you know that the term street photography is relatively new. Termed in the 80's. I would call myself a ' legacy photographer".I document my life and the pics are what I saw in the current to be turned into legacy a second after pushing the shutter button. That way my kids can see the past through their dads eyes
If you can shoot street in a place that isn't the stereo typical city I think you would be more interesting than the generic youtube street photographer. I hope you try it in the town you live it. It's where I started when I lived in Coastal NSW and I think my photos looked more unique than the street photos I have taken in Melbourne which look generic at least at my level.
Great vid, thanks Lucy. Liked and subscribed :-) So much to discuss but will focus on just one point you made. Right place, right time. In street photography more often than not you find the right place and by revisiting that location over weeks and even months you find out how the location looks under different light conditions, depending on the time of day and season. And finally it's a case of keep going back to that location and shoot it over and over again until you capture that special moment, a man with an interesting hat, a couple holding hands, whatever human touch that completes the story. So in short, it is very rarely about luck and the right time, right place - it's about knowing the elements of a shot you can control and then persistence and patience to get the special, random elements you can't. Hope this is of some help for your Street strategy. Best wishes, Jeremy
Every time I go to a tourist spot I incorporate people into my photography after all people are everywhere in these places and I take advantage of using people to make the tourist places more interesting
Just an fyi, Nikon pop up flashes (on the older DSLRs) are not like other brands. They're speedlights and that's also for their old film bodies too. Set rear sync (also in the menus, turn your lowest flash shutter speed to as low as possible) sync speed can stay at 1/250. It's going to open up a whole new door. Again Nikon pop up flashes are not created equal when you start looking at other brands. They're the most advanced you'll ever come across. Also start in P mode until you figure it out. Day time flash comp +1, exp. Comp 0. These tools have been around since the 80s.
Pop up the flash on that DSLR and dial in -1 or -2 flash comp. Then set the flash to rear sync and thank me later 😅 Also learn SLOW sync and shoot cars at night. (-2 exp comp, -1 flash comp, rear sync) play with the comps. WB flash ⚡
Was really looking forward to this video and it didn’t disappoint! I think going with digital to start with was a good idea - the instant feedback really speeds up the learning about what you like, what you don’t like, and things you need to improve while you’re still on the street. I don’t have advice as such, except maybe that you don’t have to justify why you shoot street your way eg shooting from the back - all perspectives are valid with street I think, and standing out is better than shooting like everyone else. Excited to see more! I’m going to try to shoot some street in Melbs when I’m there later this month and this gave me such good motivation ❤
Try the L-CA+ - zone focus - wide 32mm 2.8 and max shutter speed 500. ISO 100-1600 double exposure and silent as the night( wait for the double click for the right exposure). Been using this camera in its variations for years and it never fails to surprise me despite all my film slr’s and range finders.
Following as a photographer who plays bass. When I’m shooting in public I use a long exposure so the public have motion blur. Not a fan of taking people’s picture without their consent.
Thanks so much lovely! Yeah 28mm is definitely a vibe. Can’t wait to use that for some street and share a video with you all. Thanks for watching and your kind words. 🙋🏻♀️🙏🏻
Yes but.... A different vibe comes from a different focal length, so not really a rule then. The trick is to know what you are going to see through whatever FL you choose (on the day or bolted on to your camera) and be able to compose to your style and liking. The only thing I would feel qualified to say is that learning using a film camera is expensive, and feedback is slow. Taking lots of shots regularly over an extended period, looking at your growing portfolio, refining things, and chucking out lots of stuff allows you to see the patterns in your work and what works for you. Unlike many other photographic genre you don't have a lot of control and no time to work it out.
Great video and breakdown of your impressions. My favourite lens for shooting street photography when I mainly used Nikon was with the 55-200mm, that's defintely a lens worth checking out if you like closely framing people and objects.
Great video Lucy! I’m more a “streetscape” kinda gal. I love street scenes with a human element, but without actual people in the frame. So, I can’t give any real advice on how to shoot street, but keep in mind a longer lens (focal length) will typically equate to a more conspicuous rig. Maybe try using the OM-10 with a nice, compact little 85mm zuiko on the front and zone focusing. I’d think this would help achieve that signature “LL” style while keeping it street easy in terms of shooting in the field.
I think what I’m struggling with is what makes a good street photo. I could go out without thinking about it and get a good landscape or a great sports shot, I specialise in interiors so not my area of expertise, but I know what a good shot in most fields of photography looks like. What I just don’t get it the look of a street photo, seen a few vlogs about composition, colour, framing, all that normal jazz which is the same in every genre, composition is composition right, but it’s just what makes a great street photo. I’ve watched a few vlogs on Framelines channel and a couple of others and when I look at what they shoot and even other stuff from other snappers it all just looks like accidental shots, misfires. Framelines did a thing on fave photos and there was this shot of a guy with a sad face and a birthday badge on his tie…. and that was it…. It just didn’t make sense to me, it all just seems so random and even more subjective that other genres of photography. Going into London to meet a mate in a couple of weeks and give street a go, but I have to say I have no idea what I’m gonna do, never been so out of my depth in over 20 yrs as a pro. #whatisstreet 🤦♂️🤷🏼♂️🧐
Commented before without actually finishing the video, lol. I tried shooting street with a 17mm, which sounds nuts but it got some great stuff at a BBQ festival (so crowded and easy to be up close), and it let me get some of those scenes you talked about where you want stuff from the background (and it's got such a short infinity point, everythings in focus even if you're reacting fast. So try super wide, too!
Going out on my first street shoot for the next 3 days. I’m diving in with a shorter lens than I’m used to for my general photography. Using just a 50mm 1.8 lens will be a good exercise especially as I only, up to now, shoot scenes without humans, but made by humans. My main approach will be taking photos of people with dogs or people in reflections etc, to add an abstract element. I don’t find photographing a straight shot of someone walking along the street interesting so at least I don’t have to face that fear I have.
I don’t do it as much anymore but street photography was the style I was very much into in the beginning and seeing experiment with it is bringing me back to those days. Though there are some limitations to it, I feel that you using a longer focal length will help you out a bit in maybe taking more photos that you are happy with.
I've been shooting cityscapes/architectural (nature landscape here & there) for 13 years and obliviously shot street throughout the years. Started hunting for a street shot the past 2 years, but wide angle "environmental street" (subject and it's surroundings). But the last 2 months, I've gotten closer to shooting, what Paulie B coined, "run & gun" genre here in San Francisco. I'm around 3-5 feet/1+ meter close to the subject. Kinda nerve racking at first (shot from the hip) but once you get into that groove, "f**k it" attitude kicks in, just get the shot. The thrill of getting confronted makes it a little fun. Lol
Out on the street? Currently for me, the smaller the camera the better... shooting mostly digital since film is so expensive these days. Camera of choice is the Canon Powershot S95... It's a point and shoot camera.
I'm local, I shoot street photography in Surfers 90% of the time, typically 35mm with a full frame mirrorless camera, not sure if I'm any good lol. I love to shoot 35mm maybe even 28mm (never used one but I could imagine I'd like it), I find 50mm and longer so hard to get anything I like. 50mm is especially hard for me to find a flow state with and it lacks some benefits that 85mm and longer lengths have, like compression and being far from the subject. 35mm just "feels right" and have found it to be easier for me to take front shots of people because I definitely don't want any altercations, which is the opposite of what most photographers advise, "Shy? Use an 85mm!".
Early on I fell into the trap of replicating Street Photography trends. These days I take my Landscape photography style and apply that to my Street work. I actually like how you shot your style but in the street.
Lucy, don't tell me you're using "prosumery cameras" just to use the scene modes on them :-) If most of your street is shot in daylight, try zone focus, hyperfocal, or aperture priority shooting. Those are ideal for the art of street photography. Glad you've entered the wonderful world of street photography! Try wider focal legnths for street. You want to get close to your subject matter even though that's normally quite uncomfortable for people new to the practice of street. It's every street photographer's first mental challenge to overcome. Also, I agree with you that it's a bit of a high to keep walking around and hunting down interesting shots and places. The stimulation is addictive, especially for adhd people like me. However, often, the best street photography shots come about by allowing yourself to linger in one place, observe, and "work" the scene over an extended period of time. Try resisting the urge to stay on the move for some of your shoots and see what results you get instead. Sometimes that also helps acclimate people to your presence so they don't feel like you're ambushing them with a camera from left field. Shooting the backs of people is often street photography practice 101, but eventually you want to move to photographing people's faces, emotions, and interactions. Its uncomfortable, but the emotional connection it affords the viewer is what makes a successful street photograph. It also allows you to start honing skills interacting with people, making them feel at ease, overcoming reservations, and becoming more inconspicuous while avoiding people sensing you're try to be sereptitious. I mean this very respectfully when I say you have an advantage in this genre being a young woman rather than a man shooting so use it to your advantage to be bold. I agree street photography doesn't have to contain humans in them. At one point though, it becomes urban landscape photography or some other genre rather than street photography. It's a fine line.
Well done. Don't listen to the street "gatekeepers". They're mostly arrogant full of crap. There are many images of people shot from the back or the side that are outstanding examples of street photography. And who decided that a street photo must include people? Know your gear and shoot what you want. But be warned. . .street photography is addicting.
Make up some business cards which say, street photography and invite them to view your website, as one way to explain what you are doing. Smile. Yes a smile usually will disarm most people. If a person looks angry or an aggressive type, just avoid. If someone is displeased by having a photo taken, assure them you are deleting the photo and will not be using it. If they ask why me, then have the answer, you look good in that dress or coat, or you match the scene in some way. Tell them you are documenting a great moment in time, where that scene showed some emotion, or timely bit of joy you were trying to capture forever. Be honest. Try not to be noticed as taking people shots, but once again, not looking shady, as in you belong there taking shots. Most times they think a person is a tourist. The funny thing is that people use cell phones to photograph, but when I have even the smallest of cameras in hand, I see their eye is trained on it, like it is weapon. Every corner, or at the least, every store has cameras pointed at them, yet they have not a care in the world about those. Interesting. Their cell phone tracks every move they make and listens in 24 hrs a day on them, and they look at a little camera as possibly suspicious? This being said, I find many people, especially younger people, asked if a photo is OK, as in doing a portrait don't really care, or find it fun. I will include that as street, though it is street portraits. I never change a position of any items photographed as street photography, nor ask someone to do the walk by or pose. If anything is posed, it is obvious as a street portrait instead. Street as candid is more challenging to get right, but also most rewarding. You get lucky breaks, now and then. Luck favors the prepared, is the quote. Take care, Loren - if you have some free time, visit my site.
Tip get rid of that camera strap that advertises that you have a camera Nikon in big bright yellow letters. Also don’t waste film on boring bad photos.
Hi Lucy, Do you ever check out Karin Majoka's youtube chanel? She does some neat street photography in Germany. She's also film first but did some cool street on a Fuji digital (X100 I think?). I love aperture priority when I'm doing street!
I have similar reservations for street photography, coming from landscape mostly. I am not really in cramped street setting so it would be very noticeable to take pictures of people. I don’t like taking pictures of randos generally but I am trying. For non-cramped environments I’ll use a 70-200 in order to achieve that and not be so obvious. I’m a cramped street I’ll hold the camera to my side or pre-focus before taking a shot, or compose and let people walk into the shot. I don’t think street photography requires that you be an asshole. Oh and people who say street requires people are just gate keeping
Skillshare sponsored this video so it has an ad in it. There should be a “paid partnership” card that comes up at the start of the video to confirm. this helps me to keep creating free content thanks for watching.
I wonder if there's a way to make money on the spot with this. Offer a $3 portrait in 3 minutes. Send the photo to your phone, send the photo to their phone, then show that you're deleting their number from your phone. 🤷
I think being a female street photographer would have benefits. Fewer people would be intimidated by you. And your motives would not be questioned if you shoot some younger kids.
Shooting the backs of people is unfortunately not very interesting. Try shooting from the hip, and focus your gaze beyond your subject, then hold that attitude even while your subject has gone past. That way, people will just think that they are not the intended subject of your picture. You can argue that peoples feet and legs are interesting, but they just are not.
![ON THE STREET WITH [012] : Julie Hrudová](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HqKPAoW04E0/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want your ditital photos to look more like film then why not try my go to lightroom preset, available here - www.lucylumen.com/shop/p/lucys-warm-film-preset
Thank you! I’ll go give it a watch!
By the way, welcome to the incredible world of street photography! It’s truly amazing to see you giving this art form the attention it deserves. A lot of folks don’t quite grasp its essence or take the time to experience it fully. I remember you mentioning your serene beachy area, not as bustling as Sydney, but every place has its own unique charm. I reside in the serene town of Benicia, California, and I understand the beauty of finding hidden treasures in seemingly quiet places, just like you are doing. Embrace the subtle details of your surroundings, the people, the history, and the architecture, and you’ll uncover unexpected beauty. Keep exploring, my friend. You’ll be surprised by the stories your lens captures. Keep up the great work!
-Ken
Hello Lucy. I am a follower who loves your channel. Since you've asked for help, here's some advice from a veteran street photographer: since you shoot digital, look for a smaller, more discreet camera. Please turn off the front focus assist light (oh, take the opportunity to turn off all the sound). Although you have mentioned that you like the mystery in the photos with the subject's back, it is something we have all gone through when starting out due to the fear of facing each other. You must work on that fear now and you will improve a lot by incorporating facial expressions and gestures. Hope this can help you. All the best
Spot on advice and picked up the points I noticed .
One of the ways to build your confidence would be to shoot in an environment that calls to you . That could be bridge that people walk over to shooting faces through windows . When somebody notices you , smile and feel free to ask somebody if they mind if take their portrait. Before they can say no, show them photos from your instagram gallery .
Keeping a camera on you at all times is a great way to capture golden moments on the go . We all can do that these days with our phones .
When attending events there are loads of opportunities to take photos from all angles and increase those with faces.
If you feel confident you will see the photo and will take it instantly . It is best to shoot on preset focus etc set up on the camera and then refocus and correct exposure . Shooting jpeg and plus raw is a good idea.
Finally , I mainly shoot jpeg these days . Whether using phone or camera , everything is processed on my phone using Snapseed and posted to Instagram . I also produce several photo-books each year .
Looping in, I’d like to share one piece of advice few people fall into: become an expert of your preferred spots.
The rest pieces are easily available to all but this one is not shared oftenly.
That’s great advice !! I would also add, if you can try to talk to people if they are open to it. As a street photographer you get to see so many cultures blend and sometimes people are more at ease when you talk to them about their life, this also helps you build rapport and in that, it can help you get some insight and some pretty good photos. It takes time, a lot of time. But it’s fun and rewarding when you’ve taken something you can hang up on a wall and be proud of. Best of luck out there in the streets l.
I have been a photographer for years, and you’re the first woman I’ve ever heard discuss the issue of taking photos of people without their consent, or how creepy and invasive it can feel when someone sticks a camera in your face, snaps a photo, and moves away without so much as a hello. Thank you for saying it. I do what some call urban landscape photography, others call street photography for introverts. It satisfies that desire to document my landscape without having to involve others.
I love street photography! For me, I love capturing people in the act of just living, not modeling. Much of the time, I will "shoot from the hip", literally holding the camera at down as if I am not taking a pic. I only shoot digital, so it is okay if some of the shots don't work out. My personal favorite focal length is around 40mm equivalent. I like how it gives me a bit wider image, but still gives me intimate results.
A great way to introduce people in your street photography without being obvious is learning the Zone Focus technique. Being that you shoot Nikon and many older cameras that have manual features like the Ai and D series lenses that have focus scales etched on the lens themselves. Choosing the average distance of subjects you want to capture, set you aperture [preferably mid range] and focsing distance range according to your aperture setting, you can simply shoot from the hip without having to always put the camera up to your eye. This makes it discrete and less obvious that you are shooting a photo of someone. You will soon learn camera fade tricks that makes it look like you are Not shooting or doing something else with the camera when in fact you are being creative with timing your shot... all this is possible with Zone Focusing technique.
Settings: Turn off focus light and focus confirmation sounds. Shutter Speed of 1/320 on darker days, and 1/400s or 1/500s on normal light days, set under Minimum Shutter Speed. Let the ISO go AUTO. Use Aperture Priority. Set focus point on back of screen where you want to subject to be, or is at the time of pulling the trigger. Use +1/3 or more against the light, and -1/3 or more if light is to your backside and you are getting indication of clipping, or just feel that subjects or the scene will be washed-out. Position self to be able to get something looking good in background, as the foreground lines up with what you need. Smaller and light cameras, like the Lumix GX9 with a wrist-strap, make for a good carry. Have fun, Loren Schwiderski
Love, love this!! This is so brilliant! I think street photography is something that constantly evolves with style and technique and that’s what makes it so exciting and appealing. After doing it for about a year in Manhattan during my office commute I feel like I’m more like Bill Cunningham grabbing candid expressions and outfits rather than complicated layering like Meyerowitz, Wisecup, Winnogrand, etc which is way beyond my skills. But always trying and getting out there.. I’ve found if you appear friendly and transparent with your intentions and have a compliment ready if someone confronts you, 99% of the time it’s a friendly interaction. Also I tend to keep the camera up to my eye after I take the shot so it’s not so obvious or shoot from the hip! And thanks for the Andre Wagner info, he is so incredible.
You’re off to an amazing start, thanks for sharing your journey with us! Go Lucy Go!! 😊
The hardest part of street photography is two fold: overcoming the fear of someone confronting you if you take a shot, and then trying to get something interesting on top of that. Starting on digital is a very good way to start, as you can be freer to make mistakes, without the added nagging in the back of the mind about how much film costs by comparison. Every photographer is different, so you will find your niche eventually. If you haven't or do not watch Allan Schaller's channel, I highly recommend you do. The latest episode specifically talks about zone focusing and he's master at it.
I think it's really great you want to shoot Street Photography using longer lenses. Saul Leiter used longer focal-length lenses for his street work (he too is known for his color). His style stands out from the typical 28mm focal length that Garry Winogrand and the majority of today's street shooters opt for. I think your use of color and tighter crops will translate well in the street photography genre.
Streets is a very difficult genre in my opinion. Story telling is the most important part and I have been trying for over 2 years. Keep it up as it’s very rewarding in the long term 😊
It's always good to have another street shooter. My main bit of advice is something Reuben Radding told me which is to try to avoid a ton of back shots. I know it's scary at first to but a back really has very little information and I feel like people do it to avoid confrontation or conflict but I say own what you're doing you're not doing anything wrong.
I'd also recommend looking at the masters Eggleston, HCB, Moriyama, Klein, Arbus, Atget, Friedlander, Webb, Parks, et al. Involving yourself into the canon of photography is an extremely worthwhile pursuit.
I def think experimenting with focal lengths is vital. I've tried longer focal lengths and found it actually made me feel like a creepy sniper shooting people from far away. I'd rather be in the middle of things shooting with a 35 or 28 mixing it up. Also there's a look to a long focal length that makes people just seem isolated and sad which could be a look you go for!
And one last rec is to try a smaller camera. The DSLR is just intimidating to a lot of people. I personally like rangerfinder style cameras so I shoot with those and I will actually just get a lot of compliments on my cameras which disarms people and makes you seem less intimidating which can be a good thing on the street.
Anyways have fun!
Advice I can give to grow confidence is you just have to keep going out and shooting street, the more you do it the more your confidence will grow. I think this falls more into the documentary band but going to events like street parties or Protests and shooting there will help too, as people expect to see photographers capturing the event so you don't really have that fear of getting told off and it will help grow a comfort being around people in public shooting.
Also advice with shooting with people, I always find my best shots come when shooting alone but being around others helps you a lot, you get to see how other people approach it and see what they do that might help you get the shot. Also just helps you stay out later as you have someone to talk to and have a laugh with when you don't feel like shooting (is just more fun in general) but what I found what works for is going somewhere with them shooting a bit together then just splitting off doing your own thing for a bit and then meeting again later on.
I struggle with street photography, definitely out of my element. But the few times I have done it, have gone out with photographer friends and have enjoyed the experience a lot more. Talking about photography and taking photos with like minded people, makes for a great day out.
Nikon NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR AF-P Lens , Trust me for street photography and isolation , wides, fun and stopping anxiety. 70 is just wide enough on a apc to get a bit of everything but keeping a comfortable distance and 300 mm lets you have full control of whats in you photo !! and zooming in and out and still getting sharp images is great !
I've been waiting for this moment for as long as I've been subscribed! Lucy Lumen Street Arc.
So cool that you like Street. I stumbled on the genre in 2012 after taking a photography class. The quirkiness and fun side attracted me. I'm an introvert, so it was scary, but I love it. I first started with a Fuji X-100T, but found the 23mm limiting. Some random thoughts: don't worry about what is and isn't street; I settled on a small zoom 18-55mm on fuji X-T20; mostly f5.6; I don't understand using film for street (I'm 77YO, so I once shot film); I think people do not freak as much when women shoot street; don't listen to "what makes a good street photo", because you'll create your own style. I'm looking forward to more.
Also, find the D200. Jpeg, L, Fine, HIGH NR is how you get film like grain set to 3200 ISO (Hi 1.0). AWD -1. You'll want a filter with at least -5 to -7 stops of adjustments so you can get all of the lens aperture if you have an f1.8 lens during the day.
My photography teacher is making us take pictures of strangers on the street. Ive been nervous about it. But this video helped me. Im excited to try and get some good pictures.
Good luck! 📸🙋🏻♀️
Roman Fox and Gareth Danks are my go to UA-camrs for practical advice on street photography, as well as photography in general. Also, both use Fujifilm cameras, and I own a Fujifilm x100F, and I’m considering an XT5. I also own and use an Olympus OM-2, which is how I landed on your channel!
“If your photo’s not good enough, you’re not close enough.” Try 35 or 28mm (fullframe), different experience. Agreed on the “people are not needed”. Use your own style, always.
That canonet QL17 that you have is a blast to shoot with. It was my first 35mm film camera.
It took me a while to get used to because I was so used to shooting at low apertures with my digital camera that I was struggling to nail focus with the QL17. I feel like I only started to appreciate how easy it is to shoot with when I started shooting more around f5.6-11. It suddenly all clicked for me mentally
The heart of "street photography" is telling stories about the human condition, everything else is just a trend. The street guys I followed and know from LA 20 years ago only shot tri-x and Leicas...but the best cared little about that and the most successful told timeless stories about the human condition. Some were up in your face, some preferred to be ghosts, but their goal was to observe humans where they were and tell stories about what they saw, and the best showed you who they were by the stories they told, not by a brand, fashion statement, trope or clique.
I hope you have fun and can't wait to see where your street journey goes. I've been doing this for a bit now, and crazily am trying to do it with a Polaroid SX-70...and my advice is listen to what you want to say, first pick out the things that intrigue you, observe, try not to rely on your tropes, and be okay with being uncomfortable, so long as it's in service of telling your story. You'll hate the stuff you've done last week, then last month, then last year, but if you stick with it, you WILL find you have a collection of stories that have a common thread, and that's the moment of freedom for a street photographer.
Love all the street photography channels you mentioned. As a photographer, I like to try my hand at every genre. I did some wildlife photography recently and quickly found out how difficult it is.
Trevor Wisecup is suddenly everywhere.
OMG there are so many comments here I'm not sure if this has been said but the best tip I've received is DON'T MAKE EYE CONTACT with your subject. Seems a bit unnatural at first but now I go unnoticed like 80% of the time. Or, making sure sounds and lights are off, act like you're making a video and then quietly click and keep moving the camera. People don't seem to mind being on video as much as being in a photograph. I also use zone focusing and a mixture of EVF, screen or just point-and-shooting. Not so much 'from the hip' as this feels a bit sneaky to me. Parades/protests are great places to practice. Oh, and absolutely bring your own style. For me that's the whole point.
Here’s a thought for you Lucy as a film shooter, next time you go out limit yourself to just 36 shots. One of the temptations with digital is to bang off frame after frame and then cull. Nup. Keep on keeping on✌️
That was an excellent video presentation. I really appreciate how you shared your thought process as well as your nervousness about undertaking a new photographic genre. I cannot wait to see your next. video covering this topic. Please keep up the wonderful work. 😎
Thank you so much! This is such a lovely comment. I am working on another video now that involves some street photography so keep an eye out. Thanks again for the nice words and for watching too!
Lucy, the only advice I’d give you is even though you’re doing street photography, that should not be a reason to change your style of shooting. You have a unique style and you shooting like how you do produced amazing images. Even when it’s street photography. Just be you and you’d do great. Love from Ghana 🇬🇭
I am a fan of street photography. I have dabbled in it myself. But the thing that I am always unsure about is the ethics part of it. Some of my favourite photographers' work seems in that grey zone of documenting stuff and being intrusive. I mean, I understand you are out in the open, in the public, so you can't really control what other people do, but isn't their something like not wanting to be photographed ? Again, I'm not saying this as a Diss on street photography. Just a thought I have me mulling over. Last month, my brother was in the hospital for a few days before he sadly passed away. Me, my brother and nieces would make frequent trips to the hospital on the underground/subway, and we were crying and looking glum throughout those journeys. I bet some or even some of my favourites would love to document our sad moment. But in my personal opinion, it feels intrusive. But I guess I am overthinking. It is like I love the idea of street photography so much, but still, a lot of the pictures make me uncomfortable. Maybe that is the introvert in me speaking 😊
Hello Lucy , just one more heads up on street photography , I use either a Nikon 16-85 mm or a Nikon 18-200 mm for street photography , let's face it no one's going to know the lens used on the photograph & a multi focal length lens opens so many doors & offers huge amount of photography versatility when your out there on the street , the most important aspect is capturing that image , any fixed focal length lens has a lot of limitations on the street trust me , the Nikon 16-85 is obviously the smaller out of the two lenses , so that may be more convenient in terms of carrying it around , if you attach a Nikon 16-85mm to your D7100 your good to go rest assured , you can add a little sharpness in post , but most of street photography isn't so much about sharpness .
Everyone has their preferences with their focal length lens & fair enough , personally with street photography , I would never of captured half the images on street photography without the variable focal length lens , I have all the prime lenses too , but I hardly ever use them , I just keep them for the studio or specific location photoshoots .
Another heads up is street security , ideally it's best if your with a partner out there on the street , be aware of your surroundings & carry a camera holster so you can quickly holster the camera if need be , I wear my camera holster with the strap across the chest / under the arm so the holster is to the left side of my torso , this way no one can snatch the camera as it's round the neck & under the arm , you can just also position the holster to your front if need be & just keep the camera face down in the holster for when just browsing around , it's easy enough to pull out the camera quickly when you need it & the holster lid is useful if it rains too , I recommend Lowepro TLZ 1 camera holster for your set up .
This sort of information isn't in books & it's difficult to explain , but it's a must have for street photography .
There's a lot of walking with Street photography , so the above set up will be ideal in all situations & weather conditions .
It's tough to do street, then get a closeup of a flower or figurine in a window..."ooh, that reflection is cool...wait, let me go wide angle sideview to get this cool building...", then back to street. It's even tougher when you are in 1/100 of a second but see someone on a scooter that looks cool. BAM! Blurry photo because you couldn't get 1/500 dialed in quickly enough. So, street will make you a much better photographer in general and will set you up nicely for portraits, ie breaking the ice, figuring out which lens works best for people, and getting a grasp on lighting of and distance away from subjects. Great to see you spaning out. Good luck!
If you want a small SLR film camera for street photography try Olympus. Great lenses & really wonderful cameras.
I've been shooting street for a few years but here in Omaha there are not a lot of opportunities to shoot all over the city and have the streets packed with people so I have to mix in Urban Landscape shots just to stay in the flow. I do try to find parades, political rallies, large events that are happening in the city so I have more subjects to shoot. Love that you're getting into street photography, and I'm very much looking forward to more street content from you🤘
Yes Yes Yes! 🤩
I realized that my 5 star keepers for street photography is mostly with my little daughter as the main subject exploring streets. Nobody feels disturbed, because it is a natural situation (papa taking pictures of his kid). Even staging a scene is kind of "semi-natural": "darling, would you be so kind and walk from here to there?". So street photography and family documentary can be very complementary.
I love your style. very minimilastic. I love colorful and minimalistic photos
You are so great and inspiring I love you! Loving the shots at 10:35, 10:39 and 16:51. We want more…
Great video, getting fed up with youtubers trying to be comedians all the time. no BS just good content.
Ohhhhh thanks so much for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Have a great weekend!
I loved your video. I completely agree with your point of view on using digital for street photography film is too expensive to be wasting shots 😅 tbh. Personally I prefer film for studio work anyway
Thanks
Thank you so much! That is very kind of you. 🙋🏻♀️📸
❤ your videos are super practical. Thanks a lot 😊
A little more advice: shoot wide, like 28mm equivalent or even wider, but generally crop 1:1 to rein that in. If you don't, you'll find your wide photos are just a waist on either side anyway. Hey, crop in post if that happens. And generally, if shooting wide, get in real close to your subjects. Enjoy!
Thank you soo much. Very interesting.
You’re welcome lovely
You need a Df if you're shooting Nikon digital. It's a beautiful looking camera but unlike the newer Zf and Zfc you get the benefit of the F mount and all those lenses.
When i shoot street i typically look for dynamic shadows and lighting to amplify and tell the story i want to tell. Also sitting somewhere for a while and being patient for that interesting subject to walk into the scene is a good practice too.
Just found your channel! Wanted to say Hi! and that your style of minimalistic "street" photos really speaks to me. I usually end up shooting this style myself. I really like looking for lines, shadows, and textures that play well in compositions. Explore any style you want, but you should know those "Lucy Lumen" style photos absolutely rock!
Hello Lucy , really nice photography , I shoot street photography , I mainly shoot photos from the hip , the moment I bring the camera to my eye everyone becomes paranoid & it kills the scene dead in it's tracks , you get used to the angle of hip photography & you can always crop in , your Nikon D7100 is a good camera for that hence 25MP , as I also shoot on a D 7100 & a D800 .
Seriously believe it or not you will achieve amazing results just by shooting at waist level , & besides a TLR Rolleiflex 120 camera is often shot from waist level ,it just takes practice & lets face it look at the amazing results of Vivian Mayor using the TLR Rolleiflex camera at waist level angle ! , the trick is to point the camera at the subjects direction & look away , it's like covert photography , to begin with I wouldn't suggest using film , unless you actually have a TLR camera of course , digital is fine & on full frame you can just level or crop everything in post .
Of course there are times when I bring the camera to eye level , it's a luxury I find , but it's not often I have the privilege of framing with the eye , I find it's easier to frame with the eye using a longer lens as I can then simply blend in the background .
There's waist shot's you'll never get by using the eye , if you can master waist shots you won't look back & it will be another string to your bow rest assured .
I really like your photography Lucy & I also like the way that your really up together with everything & more power to you .
I personally use the Nikon D5500 for my street photography
Lots of great advice here for everyone. The only thing I would add is that you might want to try a more tourist-oriented area where people taking photos is already a common sight. I also find that tourists are often more willing to have their photo taken then residents because residents are often trying to get somewhere or do something ie get to work, etc
What worked for me about being nervous: Focus on the scene. Like architectur photography with a human in the frame. If people come across and you are here already, they will think: oh she makes a picture of the mall, stairs, whatever and they just walk through your frame. Some of them will apologize or stop and wait for you until you´re finished, then just tell them: no problem, just go ahead.
7:52 The Guccied out dude 😆 definitely a banger
50mm is the easiest geometry, easy composition and avoids distortion. The 35mm and 28mm includes more, and might be best if in tight, as in a busy city. But when you need less to worry about, or the long reach of across a street, the 50mm to 90mm is great. I am trying to go wider and wider, as in closer and closer, but in small towns it is a challenge. Hey, there we go, a challenge. Henri Cartier-Bresson shot mostly at 50mm, but I hear later maybe the 28mm. I think he might have liked the geometry and forgiving nature of 50mm when composing. Currently I am trying my best using a 15mm Leica MFT lens on my Lumix GX-9 -- so yea, 30mm equivalent.
Thanks, inspiring! It is so easy to forget your own work in the hunt for god knows what. For me at least. I think taking the time and sit down with your own photos and sort them out is very good and a key to find your strength and weaknesses - and move on.
Excellent upload. Welcome to the party. Advice: Keep on going, you clearly already know what you're looking for, don't let anyone sway you from that on your streetphotography journey. Just continue to be you!… LL on da streets!… Props! 🙏🏿
I've found that using a mirrorless camera and just using the LCD and holding the camera so when you see finding is a flick of the wrist.
I found trying to move your camera to your eye is slower. Unless you are shoots with a telephoto lens.
Great video, Lucy! This may sound like obvious advice, but the best way to improve as a street photographer is to just consistently go out and shoot. Street photography is a very instinctual artform, and it takes time to figure out what kinds of photos you want to take. As far as focal lengths go, I think this depends on where you're going to shoot. If you're in a crowded city center, then a 28mm or 35mm lens is ideal, but longer focal lengths like 50 or 85 are not unheard of in street photography.
Sean Tucker's channel is a great resource for street photography (and photography in general), and he even has a video on focal lengths that I enjoyed. There's also Tatiana Hopper, who does a lot of profiles of famous photographers if you're looking for inspiration or a direction of where to go. Highly recommend both channels!
Thank you for the SkillShare link! ...signed up...since it's a great deal with many classes that apply to me creatively and professionally.
Go Lucy! The book “Magnum Contact Sheets” might give you some more confidence shooting street on film.
I also like to photograph interesting footwear, especially on subways and trams. I can see it. Street photography is absolutely easier in crowded areas. Tilt screens and small cameras can help.
I don't shoot film but to be honest I find mf3 cameras great for street
I also have a Nikon D7200 which I bought new at the time. I use the 16 - 85 f3.5-5.6 ED VR DX lens which give great versatility and can now be bought used cheaply now
I don't think it's made any more. I've also used it for landscapes in the past. In spite of all the talk about Fuji, I think the Nikon D7000 series of cameras are probate best and easiest to use crop sensor cameras ever made. I shoot RAW
Best of look with your street - you're getting there 📷👍
Thanks for sharing Lucy
I love the fact that you like to feature a specific colour in your work. In my work it is orange and yellow for some reason.
Did you know that the term street photography is relatively new. Termed in the 80's.
I would call myself a ' legacy photographer".I document my life and the pics are what I saw in the current to be turned into legacy a second after pushing the shutter button. That way my kids can see the past through their dads eyes
If you can shoot street in a place that isn't the stereo typical city I think you would be more interesting than the generic youtube street photographer. I hope you try it in the town you live it. It's where I started when I lived in Coastal NSW and I think my photos looked more unique than the street photos I have taken in Melbourne which look generic at least at my level.
Nice hobby 💝💐✨️
Great vid, thanks Lucy. Liked and subscribed :-) So much to discuss but will focus on just one point you made. Right place, right time. In street photography more often than not you find the right place and by revisiting that location over weeks and even months you find out how the location looks under different light conditions, depending on the time of day and season. And finally it's a case of keep going back to that location and shoot it over and over again until you capture that special moment, a man with an interesting hat, a couple holding hands, whatever human touch that completes the story. So in short, it is very rarely about luck and the right time, right place - it's about knowing the elements of a shot you can control and then persistence and patience to get the special, random elements you can't. Hope this is of some help for your Street strategy. Best wishes, Jeremy
Every time I go to a tourist spot I incorporate people into my photography after all people are everywhere in these places and I take advantage of using people to make the tourist places more interesting
Just an fyi, Nikon pop up flashes (on the older DSLRs) are not like other brands. They're speedlights and that's also for their old film bodies too.
Set rear sync (also in the menus, turn your lowest flash shutter speed to as low as possible) sync speed can stay at 1/250.
It's going to open up a whole new door. Again Nikon pop up flashes are not created equal when you start looking at other brands. They're the most advanced you'll ever come across.
Also start in P mode until you figure it out. Day time flash comp +1, exp. Comp 0.
These tools have been around since the 80s.
Pop up the flash on that DSLR and dial in -1 or -2 flash comp. Then set the flash to rear sync and thank me later 😅
Also learn SLOW sync and shoot cars at night.
(-2 exp comp, -1 flash comp, rear sync) play with the comps. WB flash ⚡
Was really looking forward to this video and it didn’t disappoint! I think going with digital to start with was a good idea - the instant feedback really speeds up the learning about what you like, what you don’t like, and things you need to improve while you’re still on the street. I don’t have advice as such, except maybe that you don’t have to justify why you shoot street your way eg shooting from the back - all perspectives are valid with street I think, and standing out is better than shooting like everyone else. Excited to see more! I’m going to try to shoot some street in Melbs when I’m there later this month and this gave me such good motivation ❤
Amazing mam supper like ur videography
Try the L-CA+ - zone focus - wide 32mm 2.8 and max shutter speed 500. ISO 100-1600 double exposure and silent as the night( wait for the double click for the right exposure). Been using this camera in its variations for years and it never fails to surprise me despite all my film slr’s and range finders.
Following as a photographer who plays bass.
When I’m shooting in public I use a long exposure so the public have motion blur. Not a fan of taking people’s picture without their consent.
Love your work Lucy! Kudos. I agree with Hasham's take on using a 28mm for street photography. You are going places. Keep at it.
Thanks so much lovely! Yeah 28mm is definitely a vibe. Can’t wait to use that for some street and share a video with you all. Thanks for watching and your kind words. 🙋🏻♀️🙏🏻
Yes but.... A different vibe comes from a different focal length, so not really a rule then. The trick is to know what you are going to see through whatever FL you choose (on the day or bolted on to your camera) and be able to compose to your style and liking. The only thing I would feel qualified to say is that learning using a film camera is expensive, and feedback is slow. Taking lots of shots regularly over an extended period, looking at your growing portfolio, refining things, and chucking out lots of stuff allows you to see the patterns in your work and what works for you. Unlike many other photographic genre you don't have a lot of control and no time to work it out.
Great video and breakdown of your impressions. My favourite lens for shooting street photography when I mainly used Nikon was with the 55-200mm, that's defintely a lens worth checking out if you like closely framing people and objects.
Free Street Photography advice. Use the LCD display, don’t use the view finder because it screams “I am taking a photo!”. Become invisible.
Great video Lucy! I’m more a “streetscape” kinda gal. I love street scenes with a human element, but without actual people in the frame. So, I can’t give any real advice on how to shoot street, but keep in mind a longer lens (focal length) will typically equate to a more conspicuous rig. Maybe try using the OM-10 with a nice, compact little 85mm zuiko on the front and zone focusing. I’d think this would help achieve that signature “LL” style while keeping it street easy in terms of shooting in the field.
I like the thought of no people for street photography. Gained a follow from me
I think what I’m struggling with is what makes a good street photo. I could go out without thinking about it and get a good landscape or a great sports shot, I specialise in interiors so not my area of expertise, but I know what a good shot in most fields of photography looks like. What I just don’t get it the look of a street photo, seen a few vlogs about composition, colour, framing, all that normal jazz which is the same in every genre, composition is composition right, but it’s just what makes a great street photo. I’ve watched a few vlogs on Framelines channel and a couple of others and when I look at what they shoot and even other stuff from other snappers it all just looks like accidental shots, misfires. Framelines did a thing on fave photos and there was this shot of a guy with a sad face and a birthday badge on his tie…. and that was it…. It just didn’t make sense to me, it all just seems so random and even more subjective that other genres of photography. Going into London to meet a mate in a couple of weeks and give street a go, but I have to say I have no idea what I’m gonna do, never been so out of my depth in over 20 yrs as a pro. #whatisstreet 🤦♂️🤷🏼♂️🧐
Commented before without actually finishing the video, lol. I tried shooting street with a 17mm, which sounds nuts but it got some great stuff at a BBQ festival (so crowded and easy to be up close), and it let me get some of those scenes you talked about where you want stuff from the background (and it's got such a short infinity point, everythings in focus even if you're reacting fast. So try super wide, too!
Going out on my first street shoot for the next 3 days. I’m diving in with a shorter lens than I’m used to for my general photography. Using just a 50mm 1.8 lens will be a good exercise especially as I only, up to now, shoot scenes without humans, but made by humans. My main approach will be taking photos of people with dogs or people in reflections etc, to add an abstract element. I don’t find photographing a straight shot of someone walking along the street interesting so at least I don’t have to face that fear I have.
I don’t do it as much anymore but street photography was the style I was very much into in the beginning and seeing experiment with it is bringing me back to those days.
Though there are some limitations to it, I feel that you using a longer focal length will help you out a bit in maybe taking more photos that you are happy with.
I've been shooting cityscapes/architectural (nature landscape here & there) for 13 years and obliviously shot street throughout the years. Started hunting for a street shot the past 2 years, but wide angle "environmental street" (subject and it's surroundings). But the last 2 months, I've gotten closer to shooting, what Paulie B coined, "run & gun" genre here in San Francisco. I'm around 3-5 feet/1+ meter close to the subject. Kinda nerve racking at first (shot from the hip) but once you get into that groove, "f**k it" attitude kicks in, just get the shot. The thrill of getting confronted makes it a little fun. Lol
Out on the street? Currently for me, the smaller the camera the better... shooting mostly digital since film is so expensive these days. Camera of choice is the Canon Powershot S95... It's a point and shoot camera.
I'm local, I shoot street photography in Surfers 90% of the time, typically 35mm with a full frame mirrorless camera, not sure if I'm any good lol. I love to shoot 35mm maybe even 28mm (never used one but I could imagine I'd like it), I find 50mm and longer so hard to get anything I like. 50mm is especially hard for me to find a flow state with and it lacks some benefits that 85mm and longer lengths have, like compression and being far from the subject. 35mm just "feels right" and have found it to be easier for me to take front shots of people because I definitely don't want any altercations, which is the opposite of what most photographers advise, "Shy? Use an 85mm!".
Early on I fell into the trap of replicating Street Photography trends. These days I take my Landscape photography style and apply that to my Street work. I actually like how you shot your style but in the street.
Lucy, don't tell me you're using "prosumery cameras" just to use the scene modes on them :-) If most of your street is shot in daylight, try zone focus, hyperfocal, or aperture priority shooting. Those are ideal for the art of street photography. Glad you've entered the wonderful world of street photography! Try wider focal legnths for street. You want to get close to your subject matter even though that's normally quite uncomfortable for people new to the practice of street. It's every street photographer's first mental challenge to overcome.
Also, I agree with you that it's a bit of a high to keep walking around and hunting down interesting shots and places. The stimulation is addictive, especially for adhd people like me. However, often, the best street photography shots come about by allowing yourself to linger in one place, observe, and "work" the scene over an extended period of time. Try resisting the urge to stay on the move for some of your shoots and see what results you get instead. Sometimes that also helps acclimate people to your presence so they don't feel like you're ambushing them with a camera from left field.
Shooting the backs of people is often street photography practice 101, but eventually you want to move to photographing people's faces, emotions, and interactions. Its uncomfortable, but the emotional connection it affords the viewer is what makes a successful street photograph. It also allows you to start honing skills interacting with people, making them feel at ease, overcoming reservations, and becoming more inconspicuous while avoiding people sensing you're try to be sereptitious. I mean this very respectfully when I say you have an advantage in this genre being a young woman rather than a man shooting so use it to your advantage to be bold.
I agree street photography doesn't have to contain humans in them. At one point though, it becomes urban landscape photography or some other genre rather than street photography. It's a fine line.
You're being FAR too modest saying you're not on the same level as Faizal. He's great of course, but you have your own style that's also great.
Well done. Don't listen to the street "gatekeepers". They're mostly arrogant full of crap. There are many images of people shot from the back or the side that are outstanding examples of street photography. And who decided that a street photo must include people? Know your gear and shoot what you want. But be warned. . .street photography is addicting.
Make up some business cards which say, street photography and invite them to view your website, as one way to explain what you are doing. Smile. Yes a smile usually will disarm most people. If a person looks angry or an aggressive type, just avoid. If someone is displeased by having a photo taken, assure them you are deleting the photo and will not be using it. If they ask why me, then have the answer, you look good in that dress or coat, or you match the scene in some way. Tell them you are documenting a great moment in time, where that scene showed some emotion, or timely bit of joy you were trying to capture forever. Be honest. Try not to be noticed as taking people shots, but once again, not looking shady, as in you belong there taking shots. Most times they think a person is a tourist. The funny thing is that people use cell phones to photograph, but when I have even the smallest of cameras in hand, I see their eye is trained on it, like it is weapon. Every corner, or at the least, every store has cameras pointed at them, yet they have not a care in the world about those. Interesting. Their cell phone tracks every move they make and listens in 24 hrs a day on them, and they look at a little camera as possibly suspicious? This being said, I find many people, especially younger people, asked if a photo is OK, as in doing a portrait don't really care, or find it fun. I will include that as street, though it is street portraits. I never change a position of any items photographed as street photography, nor ask someone to do the walk by or pose. If anything is posed, it is obvious as a street portrait instead. Street as candid is more challenging to get right, but also most rewarding. You get lucky breaks, now and then. Luck favors the prepared, is the quote. Take care, Loren - if you have some free time, visit my site.
Tip get rid of that camera strap that advertises that you have a camera Nikon in big bright yellow letters. Also don’t waste film on boring bad photos.
Hi Lucy, Do you ever check out Karin Majoka's youtube chanel? She does some neat street photography in Germany. She's also film first but did some cool street on a Fuji digital (X100 I think?). I love aperture priority when I'm doing street!
welcome to peru
I have similar reservations for street photography, coming from landscape mostly. I am not really in cramped street setting so it would be very noticeable to take pictures of people. I don’t like taking pictures of randos generally but I am trying. For non-cramped environments I’ll use a 70-200 in order to achieve that and not be so obvious. I’m a cramped street I’ll hold the camera to my side or pre-focus before taking a shot, or compose and let people walk into the shot. I don’t think street photography requires that you be an asshole. Oh and people who say street requires people are just gate keeping
Is this an avert for Skillshare?
Skillshare sponsored this video so it has an ad in it. There should be a “paid partnership” card that comes up at the start of the video to confirm. this helps me to keep creating free content thanks for watching.
Make sure you are always telling a story with the image.
one street photography rule to keep in mind: forget any photos with people shot from behind, those doesn't count, not street photography :d
Street photography. Or how to be an intrusive jerk.
Photographer
I wonder if there's a way to make money on the spot with this. Offer a $3 portrait in 3 minutes. Send the photo to your phone, send the photo to their phone, then show that you're deleting their number from your phone. 🤷
I think being a female street photographer would have benefits. Fewer people would be intimidated by you. And your motives would not be questioned if you shoot some younger kids.
Shooting the backs of people is unfortunately not very interesting. Try shooting from the hip, and focus your gaze beyond your subject, then hold that attitude even while your subject has gone past. That way, people will just think that they are not the intended subject of your picture. You can argue that peoples feet and legs are interesting, but they just are not.