I just bought a continental Contitech timing belt kit and Continental serpentine tensioner and idler and belt. From what I can see they are top quality, and pretty high-end. It's Japanese and German parts from what I can tell, I've been watching the Continental timing belt kits for a while, and they're usually more expensive then the Aisen kits sometimes. And from all the reviews I see it is pretty top-notch. So hopefully this Continental kit is good
@@bundysgarage completely agree with you brother! Gates basically sold out to China. The Continental kit has been bulletproof since I installed it when rebuilt my car. I don't know if you remember me brother. I emailed you. And we talked on the phone! You helped me with my car. I'm in Canada. It's been bulletproof since
@@bundysgarage can never go wrong with a Toyota man. I still have my 6-speed Accord. It's giving me very very little issues since I did all that work on it. It's been a few years now! Didn't even have a check engine light at all until last week and it's just something minor it's my oxygen sensor. The car doesn't owe me nothing it has been so reliable. How you been man how's life treating you?
Thanks for the link for the tensioner tool, I tried aftermarket ones for a few days. This one looks like it'll work much better. Also, you have the spring loaded tensioner, lucky. My 08 Oddy (EX-L I think) has the hydraulic tensioner which is a pain in the backside.
He was standing it the front of the car so he meant push forward from the camera perspective but yes, saying push towards rear of car would be more descriptive.
Great video man, I got an 07 honda rudgeline and I'm getting some squeaking rattling on start of acceleration and I noticed the idler puller has a slight wobble to it when the engine running, I believe it needs a tensioner. Gonna attempt the repair by myself it seems pretty straight forward
Hey just for your description, my 2010 crosstour has the hydraulic belt tensioner, the 2011 and 2012 ones have this mechanical tensioner, 2013-15 switched to a different hydraulic tensioner. I am currently in the process of getting a different ac compressor bracket to use this tensioner because the hydraulic ones suckkk, very cheap aluminum
Sir, or anyone, im working on honda accord 2.4 8th gen rn. Does the thread is clockwise too? Im going to replace the bearing only but i dont know if he thread is the same way as this video. Thanks
Súper awesome video thank you so much for sharing. I have a 2012 Honda Accord EXL coupe V6 3.5 it gets noisy after 10 minutes of driving. Mechanic wants $140.00 to change it I was going to do it my self but I probably take it to him
I changed my drive belt 6 months ago. I'm hearing that chirp again. Thinking this time its the tensioner. It chirps intermittently. Even when warm. Last time the tensioner was replaced was 2016. Thoughts?
I got my belt off and changed the Power Steering pump.But Ican't get it back on -- going counter clockwise on the tensioner bolt just loosens the bolt. ( It worked once because it hadn't been disturbed. I tried torquing it down, but don't want to break the bolt. Any ideas? I would have thought everyone would run into this situation -- after allwe've all. loosened thousands of bolts by turning counter clockwise
any hints on the torque specs for reinstalling the 14 and 12 mm bolts? All i can find is references to the pre 2012 Gen 3 tensioner bolt torque - which it used a completely different style with the external spring cartridge.
Yes you are right, I apologize. I have updated the link in the description and the size of the bearing is 17 x 47 x 14 deep grove sealed bearing. Take that to any bearing / industrial store and they can get you one, if you can’t wait for Amazon.
Will the pulleys have a little play side to side? When I replaced them, the top one (looking at it installed) has a little play. I torqued it to spec (didn't want to over torque. I've had one break on me before), but it has a little play. thoughts?
Autozone and Oreilley didn't have the bearings alone. And the 2 pulleys (with preinstalled bearings) are within $5 as the whole tensioner with preinstalled pulleys/bearings, so I bought the whole tensioner. O'reilleys tensioner has chinese bearings, Autozone's tensioner has Michigan-made bearings, I chose to avoid the Chinese bearings.
Dealer's choice. But for only $100 more, I get - a new tensioner spring (they don't often fail, but it's not unheard of them getting weak and the pulleys bouncing around) - time and work savings of not needing to put bearings into pulleys, pulleys back into the tensioner with a vice/reverse thread schtick), - a new Duralast thick belt included. While you're doing this, might as well install a new belt.
That tensioner is such a bad design. No room to work. On the mdx the idiots at Honda put the hard ac line 1/2 inch in front of the tensioner bolt. After rounding the bolt with a crows foot, I ended up having to hammer on a 14mm socket and used a harbor freight serpentine belt bar to Alternator was huge PIA on the MDX. Take your time and watch several tutorials. Anyone who brags how fast they did the job is prob full of It. Take your time and do it right
I wish I could find a part number for the oem honda auto tensioner assembly for a 2007 honda ridgeline RTL, if anyone knows the part number I'd love to get and oem tensioner. Thanks
Bought a complete tensioner today for $70 with 2 year warranty. That’s the way to go instead of wasting time.
Where and what brand did you go with?
@@smittysmitty4681 went with dayco brand got it from my local store with a year warranty
@@smittysmitty4681 Its probably best to go with oem. They're a bit more expensive, but you don't really gotta worry about it messing up on you.
I got mine for $145 lifetime warranty tho
Man the tool makes the job way easier. I was using a regular socket with breaker bar ...trouble . Went got the tool. Piece of cake.
Great video, thanks. When I drive in bearings like this, I find it helpful to freeze the bearing for a few hours. It works great.
You made look easy breaking the tensioners pulley bolt and crank pulley's bolt.
word of advice when driving out/in bearings with sockets. use the other side of the socket the flatter part not the open part.
I just bought a continental Contitech timing belt kit and Continental serpentine tensioner and idler and belt. From what I can see they are top quality, and pretty high-end. It's Japanese and German parts from what I can tell, I've been watching the Continental timing belt kits for a while, and they're usually more expensive then the Aisen kits sometimes. And from all the reviews I see it is pretty top-notch. So hopefully this Continental kit is good
It’s a good kit. Just stay away from Gates, they use to be good 30+ years ago, now Gates is junk.
@@bundysgarage completely agree with you brother! Gates basically sold out to China. The Continental kit has been bulletproof since I installed it when rebuilt my car. I don't know if you remember me brother. I emailed you. And we talked on the phone! You helped me with my car. I'm in Canada. It's been bulletproof since
@youandiryan yeah I remember you! It’s been awhile. I have no J Series cars in my arsenal right now. I have all Toyota’s but I do love that J Series.
@@bundysgarage can never go wrong with a Toyota man. I still have my 6-speed Accord. It's giving me very very little issues since I did all that work on it. It's been a few years now! Didn't even have a check engine light at all until last week and it's just something minor it's my oxygen sensor. The car doesn't owe me nothing it has been so reliable. How you been man how's life treating you?
Thanks for the link for the tensioner tool, I tried aftermarket ones for a few days. This one looks like it'll work much better. Also, you have the spring loaded tensioner, lucky. My 08 Oddy (EX-L I think) has the hydraulic tensioner which is a pain in the backside.
moving the wrench end "forward" would mean (to most people) towards the front of the car. You're pushing it to the back.
He was standing it the front of the car so he meant push forward from the camera perspective but yes, saying push towards rear of car would be more descriptive.
Great video thank you
My 09 honda accord gots a hydralic shock and welded nuts to use for relieving the the tension seprate from the pulleys
Great video man, I got an 07 honda rudgeline and I'm getting some squeaking rattling on start of acceleration and I noticed the idler puller has a slight wobble to it when the engine running, I believe it needs a tensioner. Gonna attempt the repair by myself it seems pretty straight forward
Results????
Hey just for your description, my 2010 crosstour has the hydraulic belt tensioner, the 2011 and 2012 ones have this mechanical tensioner, 2013-15 switched to a different hydraulic tensioner. I am currently in the process of getting a different ac compressor bracket to use this tensioner because the hydraulic ones suckkk, very cheap aluminum
Did you get the new bracket and did it work?
Sir, or anyone, im working on honda accord 2.4 8th gen rn. Does the thread is clockwise too? Im going to replace the bearing only but i dont know if he thread is the same way as this video. Thanks
*the thread
I'm pretty sure that the bolt holding that specific pulley on your car is REVERSE threaded.
Súper awesome video thank you so much for sharing. I have a 2012 Honda Accord EXL coupe V6 3.5 it gets noisy after 10 minutes of driving. Mechanic wants $140.00 to change it I was going to do it my self but I probably take it to him
I changed my drive belt 6 months ago. I'm hearing that chirp again. Thinking this time its the tensioner. It chirps intermittently. Even when warm. Last time the tensioner was replaced was 2016. Thoughts?
When taking off the belt, are you in the center of the pulley or behind it ???
I got my belt off and changed the Power Steering pump.But Ican't get it back on -- going counter clockwise on the tensioner bolt just loosens the bolt. ( It worked once because it hadn't been disturbed. I tried torquing it down, but don't want to break the bolt. Any ideas? I would have thought everyone would run into this situation -- after allwe've all. loosened thousands of bolts by turning counter clockwise
Just watched you explain that it's reverse threaded!
any hints on the torque specs for reinstalling the 14 and 12 mm bolts? All i can find is references to the pre 2012 Gen 3 tensioner bolt torque - which it used a completely different style with the external spring cartridge.
Hi!
Were you able to find the torque specs? Running into same issue here. Thanks for your help!
do you have a full j series timing belt replacement video?
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/lEg9_OCas_w/v-deo.html
Tank you for you help
Glad it helped you out!
Your link is wrong for the large bearing.
Why is the link wrong?
@@bundysgarage just the wrong part for the larger bearing. Great video. Should be 6303 per your video
Yes you are right, I apologize. I have updated the link in the description and the size of the bearing is 17 x 47 x 14 deep grove sealed bearing. Take that to any bearing / industrial store and they can get you one, if you can’t wait for Amazon.
Will the pulleys have a little play side to side? When I replaced them, the top one (looking at it installed) has a little play. I torqued it to spec (didn't want to over torque. I've had one break on me before), but it has a little play. thoughts?
thanks for sharing
Mine a 03 honda pilot has a bolt in the middle 😡. Alternator bracket was broken too
I hav 07 acura tl. 246k miles. Ill likely need to replace these bearings right?
eventually
Are you on the pulley or behind the pulley, Help ,
Isn't there another grooved idler in there to remove and replace?
Autozone and Oreilley didn't have the bearings alone. And the 2 pulleys (with preinstalled bearings) are within $5 as the whole tensioner with preinstalled pulleys/bearings, so I bought the whole tensioner.
O'reilleys tensioner has chinese bearings, Autozone's tensioner has Michigan-made bearings, I chose to avoid the Chinese bearings.
Ebay. Lower Bearing is a 6303 upper one is a 6203. $20 total
Dealer's choice.
But for only $100 more, I get
- a new tensioner spring (they don't often fail, but it's not unheard of them getting weak and the pulleys bouncing around)
- time and work savings of not needing to put bearings into pulleys, pulleys back into the tensioner with a vice/reverse thread schtick),
- a new Duralast thick belt included. While you're doing this, might as well install a new belt.
Replaced mine through the top, but it's also a lot of wiggling.
That tensioner is such a bad design. No room to work. On the mdx the idiots at Honda put the hard ac line 1/2 inch in front of the tensioner bolt.
After rounding the bolt with a crows foot, I ended up having to hammer on a 14mm socket and used a harbor freight serpentine belt bar to
Alternator was huge PIA on the MDX.
Take your time and watch several tutorials. Anyone who brags how fast they did the job is prob full of It. Take your time and do it right
2003 honda pilot serpentine tensioner its 2 x 10mm and 1 x 8 mm in center
I wish I could find a part number for the oem honda auto tensioner assembly for a 2007 honda ridgeline RTL, if anyone knows the part number I'd love to get and oem tensioner. Thanks
hey man im doing a j series swap on a 97 Acura any advise?
Thank for that. I was need those part numbers. We haven't videos about engines Hondas' J series in Brazil.
I have a bunch of videos about the infamous Honda Acura J Series V6 engine on my channel, I LOVE that engine!!!!!
@@bundysgarage I love too. I have a Honda Accord 2006 J Series V6! That engine is wonderful! Thank you for your channel, now I follow you!
Isn't it easier to do it from the bottom ?
That's the one that always makes noises like the bearing is done
"Before it gets too late"
Not applicable for 2010 and up. They have hydraulic tensioners…
Maybe your car.....My 2012 Accord is a spring tensioner.