I absolutely love learning videos like this! I love the way you put it across exaggerating certain parts of how important it is to listen to what you are saying. I work in the motor trade in the UK, in the winter you can service a car and the adjust the tyre pressures to the correct pressure, the next week they will come in saying you have adjusted their pressures wrong.... in the UK it can go from +14Degrease centigrade to -8 centigrade in a night. people really don't understand how much temperature affects a lot of variables. love the videos you do, keep teaching. 👌
I'm guessing by the tone of this video that some people have been claiming Reefs servos are not worth the price due to failure or other issues when the issue is in fact usually not the servo but instead the problem is with the power source. I personally knew most of this info about batteries from years ago racing oval track and off-road short-course trucks, but this was a great explanation and demonstration. Reefs still make great products. Thank you.
Solid math, here in Maine we frequently crawl at single digit temperatures. We keep spare batteries inside our pockets to keep them warm. On really cold days we put hand warmer packs around the batteries in the rigs so they don't freeze up
you do means some offense or you wouldn’t word it as you did. Either way I don’t care it’s a free country but if you’re going to call someone a genius then compare apples to apples in your explanation and not apples to speakers.
@G59Cwalwur ive tested hundreds of batteries and traxxas is the only battery that says 25c on the label and the cells actually make 25c. Very few have made more than 25c but it doesn't matter when the label says 100c.... please inform me what batteries you've actually tested that actually make the c rating on the label.
@NLiteNRC i don't take offense to what he says.... but if he says this battery says this c rating on the label and actually hits that c rating id be glad to check on my own!
@@rc-daily also how did you test these batteries and how did you get your baseline ? Did you have the device you used to test them calibrated? All I’m saying is all you guys are using absolutes but none of you took care of any variables or did the actual math . It’s not as simple as just plugging in battery after battery . Lots of variables to consider . @NLiteNRC
the hardest lesson i learned was after almost frying a $300+ AFGRC 5th scale servo. yes it's rated to 16v direct power, HOWEVER...if you plug it into your 4s battery that is in series with another 4S, now you have 32v!!! immediately started smoking and boy did I panic. i got very very very lucky and unplugged it fast enough it didn't damage the servo but yeah, your balance plug becomes 32v if its connected to another battery in series
Electricity is magic to me. Most of the different terms bounce off my thick skull but some of them do get in and I understand a bit. I know what I don't know so I'm generally cautious. That being said, you explained this so well that even I could grasp it. If you could do a series on a wider range of RC electronic topics that would be awesome and hopefully helpful to others. This is bringing back memories from math classes lol. I barely passed basic ones in high school but in college I got a B+ in trigonometry. It seems I need to luck my way into my particular brain matching up with the right person's way of explaining something.
I love my esr meter! Owned 1, since racing lipo's years ago! Built my own servo checker-tester + torque meter. Batteries, whoever really makes the smart batteries are really close to their actual 'C' ratings.
Also, always remember to discharge your lipo batteries down to storage charge voltage. Usually 30%. Keeping a lipo charged over a period of time, a week for instance weakens the battery, & it/they won't hold AS much charge next time, & in rare instances CAN catch on fire. ANY battery that had 'puff' to it, destroy it! It's a bomb waiting to go off! [Ask me how I know].
I like this style of content. Its easy for us to get comfortable in this hobby and forget some of the basics. As always, I appreciate you and your efforts. Be well.
The other 2 keys to long servo life is endpoints, and not stalling on a rock for a long period of time,(while taking a picture, or waiting in line). They will overheat fast in the wrong situation.
Solid explanation and demonstration 🫡 My only comment is the wire leads and extra plugs on your battery tester will have some effect on the readings. This is also true on the RCs themselves. Ive seen folks with multiple battery adapters, or thin wires to the ESC, all of this limits how many amps can be drawn. If you're trying to allow your vehicle to pull more amps, you need the wire gauge and good connectors to back it up. This is why 1/10 and 1/8 race vehicles use 5mm bullet connectors, and many people are using XT90 connectors on 1/10 rigs, throw out those deans plugs!
Happy Holidays everyone!!! I've been using women's stockings to keep my lipos warm while running. I start with cutting the foot off at lenght for the lipo to fit in with extra room. Put a knot in the next section of the leg cut from the foot. Then cut so the lipo fits in with some extra again and make 3 to 4 layers of stocking. Your lipo will not get cold. It's like a sleeping bag for your😊 lipo. I know it sounds weird!!!!😂😂😂Give it a try after laughing at this😂😂😂
It’s interesting seeing you talk about temperature… I came to the RC world from the off grid camping realm where lithium based batteries are used frequently and a major topic of conversation in this area is temperature. I was very surprised to see how infrequently temperatures are mentioned in the RC world.
I was frying servos left and right til I swapped over to a bec and a servo running at 8.4 instead of 4s direct wire. And you are correct everyone wants to blame everyone else. I think that I just finally narrowed it down to battery. I mean usually when it fries em it’s like 30 seconds into a run with not much load. I’m running the crawlmaster v3 with a team spec revolver. Seriously I fried 3 servos now I almost don’t want to send this last one back
The smallest battery I run is 2200 milliamp 3 cell I usally keep my batteries in the gurage in the cold I will definitely have to move them inside now I allready have the safety bag of course
Hey Joe burnin up servos also can be from esc amps output rating being lower than combined load of power draw from motor and servo/servos i fought the under power problem fir 6 dang months n i burnt up 5-6 motors and 4 servos and 2 mb100 esc's b4 i figured it out n yeah this video is 100% correct im just adding info i learnededed financially and time sriving tiny truck loss And thank you for this video because it's helping a bunch of folks 🤘💯 thats why i started watching ya no bs strait shootin vids
I'm gonna keep watching but c rating on a known brand name battery is pretty accurate.. plus you gotta take into account different types of batteries graphene batteries have a much higher continuous current rating than a regular lipo
I'm not really into mini anything. Even my Groms i generally cram the biggest battery i can into all my stuff. Coincidentally i rarely have servo issues. Even stock servos have held up really well. I prefer bashing to changing batteries every few minutes.
I have a lipo question, i used to run a traxxas brushless e revo with the traxxas batteries which i think had a c rating of around 30. They would get hot and the truck was a bit down on power compared to some off brand 100c battery. I belive what your saying about c rating being marketing bs, but what im wondering is why did the 100c batteries make such a diffeence then? Or is it maybe the 100c batteries were actually 30c. And the 30c Traxxas packs werent actually 30c? Just curious here if someone can explain. Happy holidays everybody !
The only time my batteries get hot on my racers and bashers is if the MAH is not large enough and or I stay full throttle a lot and pull max draw for extended periods. Or the whole system is not big enough for the type of driving you are going. There are so many variables in this question it impossible to give you a correct answer for your situation. I do know like I said if your at max draw on your battery most of the time it will heat up.
The only time my batteries get hot on my racers and bashers is if the MAH is not large enough and or I stay full throttle a lot and pull max draw for extended periods. Or the whole system is not big enough for the type of driving you are going. There are so many variables in this question it impossible to give you a correct answer for your situation.
So for someone who doesn't compete just crawls for fun. Am i correct in thinking running a bigger battery, 3s but like 5,000 milliamps is a better option. Also if im running a fusion pro, how do you wire in an external bec? I just built a four wheel steer rig and i know i need more power to my servos.
Great video Joe, I get this gist of smaller batteries in cold can cause problems but im unsure what to take away here. Got me fearful to run in the cold now lol. Direct power bad, BEC powered good? Smaller batteries are okay if it’s warm or can still be problematic either way? What’s the threshold for battery size vs temperature??
As a person with slightly above average electrical knowledge, this is an excellent video with great information! Your content is fantastic! But... back off on the coffee and stop yelling at us.... please..
Don't worry about the 'technical' stuff, just enjoy what u like! WE 'geeks' will explain what we find out, just for other geeks🤪. Do whatever makes YOU happy!
all of this stuff doesn't really matter till you start spending all your money on the high end stuff lol. just make sure you're being safe with your lipos and you'll be fine. I haven't killed a servo in maybe 6 years.
My favorite servo I've ever bought was a reefs raw 500. I put it in my tekno mt410. It has taken 4 years of complete abuse and still in great shape. The only issue is they are expensive. But I guess if you only ever have to buy 1 it's really not.
Obviously i am too stupid, this was completely useless to me - main point is missing - why does it ruin the servo when there is not enough power ? I would assume when it gets less amps it moves slower or weaker.
The battery is very rarely the culprit for a servo burning up . Endpoints are the most important thing . I get what you were trying to do with this video but I didn’t appreciate how you spoke . We aren’t a bunch of idiots . This is by no means a “scientific “ channel or a true “testing “ channel . I can’t take someone serious when they say “ I got more experience than you ! “ and “ come on guys smarten up “ this isn’t common knowledge for people (nor is it factual information ) how are you backing up your information? How can you prove that tester is accurate? Just because you do something for a long time doesn’t mean you know it all . Maybe if you truly want to help people or show them something don’t talk to them like they are stupid and should know it already . Clearly you don’t know all the information either .
Endpoints are part yes, but parking the truck on an obstacle with pressure against the front wheel will kill a servo almost instantly. Thermal runaway from sustained load. People will park it in a cool looking position on an obstacle, take a picture, or waiting in line at a comp to take on an obstacle. It can overheat remarkably fast.
This hobby is full of battery liars. It sux that UA-camrs like KT spread BS lies like "24s" when he really is using four 6s packs in parallel thus he would be using a 6s4p setup but clickbaits and scams ignorant people by saying it's 24s. By his logic a Tesla would be like 7000s.
I run 4s and 3s 9000 milliamp batteries in all of my Crawlers 1/10 same thing with all of my truggy 1/8 and Buggies 8 scale I run 8,000 and up milliamp batteries and all of my servos I have not died plus I run all 1/8 scale brushless systems in my 1/10 crawlers and in my 1/8 scale vehicles
I absolutely love learning videos like this!
I love the way you put it across exaggerating certain parts of how important it is to listen to what you are saying.
I work in the motor trade in the UK, in the winter you can service a car and the adjust the tyre pressures to the correct pressure, the next week they will come in saying you have adjusted their pressures wrong.... in the UK it can go from +14Degrease centigrade to -8 centigrade in a night. people really don't understand how much temperature affects a lot of variables.
love the videos you do, keep teaching. 👌
Thank you. This is why I don't like racing my trucks in the winter. Plus I HATE Like hell having to clean them, from mud an crap.
I'm guessing by the tone of this video that some people have been claiming Reefs servos are not worth the price due to failure or other issues when the issue is in fact usually not the servo but instead the problem is with the power source. I personally knew most of this info about batteries from years ago racing oval track and off-road short-course trucks, but this was a great explanation and demonstration. Reefs still make great products. Thank you.
Solid math, here in Maine we frequently crawl at single digit temperatures. We keep spare batteries inside our pockets to keep them warm. On really cold days we put hand warmer packs around the batteries in the rigs so they don't freeze up
Got a link for the warmers? 😃
I didn’t realize it was that drastic. Nice explanation
Only honest battery is traxxas. No way they're pulling 35+ c from a battery that small. It would melt the wires instantly.
you do means some offense or you wouldn’t word it as you did. Either way I don’t care it’s a free country but if you’re going to call someone a genius then compare apples to apples in your explanation and not apples to speakers.
@G59Cwalwur ive tested hundreds of batteries and traxxas is the only battery that says 25c on the label and the cells actually make 25c. Very few have made more than 25c but it doesn't matter when the label says 100c.... please inform me what batteries you've actually tested that actually make the c rating on the label.
@NLiteNRC i don't take offense to what he says.... but if he says this battery says this c rating on the label and actually hits that c rating id be glad to check on my own!
@@rc-daily also how did you test these batteries and how did you get your baseline ? Did you have the device you used to test them calibrated? All I’m saying is all you guys are using absolutes but none of you took care of any variables or did the actual math . It’s not as simple as just plugging in battery after battery . Lots of variables to consider . @NLiteNRC
You always scream at us like you had one two many coffees this morning 😂😂😂😂😂
LoL I usually do 1 energy drink a day. I had none for this one.
Great show, Joe! Super clear. Just the tone of your voice demonstrates the knowledge you do have on the subject. Thanks for sharing!
Appreciate the info Joe 🫡
the hardest lesson i learned was after almost frying a $300+ AFGRC 5th scale servo. yes it's rated to 16v direct power, HOWEVER...if you plug it into your 4s battery that is in series with another 4S, now you have 32v!!! immediately started smoking and boy did I panic. i got very very very lucky and unplugged it fast enough it didn't damage the servo but yeah, your balance plug becomes 32v if its connected to another battery in series
That meters rad! you're channels awesome 💯🤸♂️🙌❤️
My friend you just blown my mind I know nothing really about electics and now I know why I'm having problems in my winter running lol
Electricity is magic to me. Most of the different terms bounce off my thick skull but some of them do get in and I understand a bit. I know what I don't know so I'm generally cautious. That being said, you explained this so well that even I could grasp it. If you could do a series on a wider range of RC electronic topics that would be awesome and hopefully helpful to others.
This is bringing back memories from math classes lol. I barely passed basic ones in high school but in college I got a B+ in trigonometry. It seems I need to luck my way into my particular brain matching up with the right person's way of explaining something.
I love my esr meter! Owned 1, since racing lipo's years ago! Built my own servo checker-tester + torque meter.
Batteries, whoever really makes the smart batteries are really close to their actual 'C' ratings.
Also, always remember to discharge your lipo batteries down to storage charge voltage. Usually 30%. Keeping a lipo charged over a period of time, a week for instance weakens the battery, & it/they won't hold AS much charge next time, & in rare instances CAN catch on fire. ANY battery that had 'puff' to it, destroy it! It's a bomb waiting to go off! [Ask me how I know].
How do you know?@@old-rcplane-phart
That was a great one, Joe! Very helpful 👌 Thanks 👊
I like this style of content. Its easy for us to get comfortable in this hobby and forget some of the basics. As always, I appreciate you and your efforts. Be well.
@11:51 thinking and common sense is my motto as well! 😅 Great info for the community! Cheers Joe!
I learnt something new today!
there is also the grease inside the gears that solidify with the cold, and can smoke the servo's motor, or esc for the brushless ones.
Thank you Joe I learned something about batteries I didn’t know or realize! I knew heat effects them but I didn’t know the cold is the same! you rock!
I'm very interested at this. I've never had the problem personally, but this is very useful INFO! Thank you sir!
Thanks for the explanation! Great video 👍
Thank you for the information in an easy to understand way
The other 2 keys to long servo life is endpoints, and not stalling on a rock for a long period of time,(while taking a picture, or waiting in line). They will overheat fast in the wrong situation.
Yes this is so true.
Solid explanation and demonstration 🫡
My only comment is the wire leads and extra plugs on your battery tester will have some effect on the readings. This is also true on the RCs themselves. Ive seen folks with multiple battery adapters, or thin wires to the ESC, all of this limits how many amps can be drawn.
If you're trying to allow your vehicle to pull more amps, you need the wire gauge and good connectors to back it up. This is why 1/10 and 1/8 race vehicles use 5mm bullet connectors, and many people are using XT90 connectors on 1/10 rigs, throw out those deans plugs!
Happy Holidays everyone!!!
I've been using women's stockings to keep my lipos warm while running. I start with cutting the foot off at lenght for the lipo to fit in with extra room. Put a knot in the next section of the leg cut from the foot. Then cut so the lipo fits in with some extra again and make 3 to 4 layers of stocking. Your lipo will not get cold. It's like a sleeping bag for your😊 lipo. I know it sounds weird!!!!😂😂😂Give it a try after laughing at this😂😂😂
It’s interesting seeing you talk about temperature… I came to the RC world from the off grid camping realm where lithium based batteries are used frequently and a major topic of conversation in this area is temperature. I was very surprised to see how infrequently temperatures are mentioned in the RC world.
Thanks for posting this. I learned alot.
I was frying servos left and right til I swapped over to a bec and a servo running at 8.4 instead of 4s direct wire. And you are correct everyone wants to blame everyone else. I think that I just finally narrowed it down to battery. I mean usually when it fries em it’s like 30 seconds into a run with not much load. I’m running the crawlmaster v3 with a team spec revolver. Seriously I fried 3 servos now I almost don’t want to send this last one back
Very informative video.
Great video joe glad someone else made this video.... it's crazy how much were lied to about the lipos we buy
What a fantastic vid bro never knew it was that bad temp wise... Like what an eye opener . Thanks for the understandable vid RC brother ❤
That battery tester looks like it's straight out of a 1982 Radio Shack catalogue.
LoL it’s a few years old for sure. But simple and effective.
The smallest battery I run is 2200 milliamp 3 cell I usally keep my batteries in the gurage in the cold I will definitely have to move them inside now I allready have the safety bag of course
Stop buying reefs servos!! 😂😂
You mean nsdrc
@@jdmtyteeeyo yeah...those too😏
What servos do we buy? 👀
Hey Joe burnin up servos also can be from esc amps output rating being lower than combined load of power draw from motor and servo/servos i fought the under power problem fir 6 dang months n i burnt up 5-6 motors and 4 servos and 2 mb100 esc's b4 i figured it out n yeah this video is 100% correct im just adding info i learnededed financially and time sriving tiny truck loss And thank you for this video because it's helping a bunch of folks 🤘💯 thats why i started watching ya no bs strait shootin vids
Very good video ❤ helpful too 👌
YOU TELL EM JOE.............
I'm gonna keep watching but c rating on a known brand name battery is pretty accurate.. plus you gotta take into account different types of batteries graphene batteries have a much higher continuous current rating than a regular lipo
Good informative video but does the type/ size of BEC mater ?
Thanks Joe!! Great video.
Where did you get that meter? I'd like to have one so I can mark my batteries with the info.
servo saver has to give also, haven't killed a servo in forever (arrma bashing)
Great content for new rc folks
Preach it brutha 👍🏼👍🏼
You are the WWE of rc. L O V E it!!!!
👍👍😃
Same stuff I have been saying for years.also the reason I run a hobby wing 20a bec on my hv servos.
I'm not really into mini anything. Even my Groms i generally cram the biggest battery i can into all my stuff. Coincidentally i rarely have servo issues. Even stock servos have held up really well. I prefer bashing to changing batteries every few minutes.
I have a lipo question, i used to run a traxxas brushless e revo with the traxxas batteries which i think had a c rating of around 30. They would get hot and the truck was a bit down on power compared to some off brand 100c battery. I belive what your saying about c rating being marketing bs, but what im wondering is why did the 100c batteries make such a diffeence then? Or is it maybe the 100c batteries were actually 30c. And the 30c Traxxas packs werent actually 30c? Just curious here if someone can explain. Happy holidays everybody !
The only time my batteries get hot on my racers and bashers is if the MAH is not large enough and or I stay full throttle a lot and pull max draw for extended periods. Or the whole system is not big enough for the type of driving you are going. There are so many variables in this question it impossible to give you a correct answer for your situation. I do know like I said if your at max draw on your battery most of the time it will heat up.
The only time my batteries get hot on my racers and bashers is if the MAH is not large enough and or I stay full throttle a lot and pull max draw for extended periods. Or the whole system is not big enough for the type of driving you are going. There are so many variables in this question it impossible to give you a correct answer for your situation.
These are facts guys and gals
So for someone who doesn't compete just crawls for fun. Am i correct in thinking running a bigger battery, 3s but like 5,000 milliamps is a better option. Also if im running a fusion pro, how do you wire in an external bec? I just built a four wheel steer rig and i know i need more power to my servos.
Great video Joe, I get this gist of smaller batteries in cold can cause problems but im unsure what to take away here. Got me fearful to run in the cold now lol.
Direct power bad, BEC powered good? Smaller batteries are okay if it’s warm or can still be problematic either way? What’s the threshold for battery size vs temperature??
👍😁😎✌️
Low mah battery's produce lower amps. Simple. On a micro or mini though you dont want all that weight in battery if possible.
STOP YELLING AT ME when I click the video, okay? lol. :)
Bro I just said the same thing. 😂
i warmed up my 4s 5200s in my hands while charging and the IR went from 6 to 4 milliohms
Yep
😁👍
🥱💤💤💤💤
I was reading exo's gear improvement on the vigilante. Hopefully maiden mine today or tmrw. It'll stay stock on 8s
As a person with slightly above average electrical knowledge, this is an excellent video with great information! Your content is fantastic! But... back off on the coffee and stop yelling at us.... please..
Great upload.
Now do lipo saftey.... for the noobs.
Lmao not a chance they will figure it out lmao 🤣
It's good thing I'm in hot ass Florida then.
Simple run hv servos, never an issue yet, only directpower had issues
Batteries lie on the mah and the “c” ratings… servos lie on the torque ratings
I use a B4s 2500 mah lilon 10 with all my hv servo promodeler has all kinds batteries
I'm so confused and this stuff keeps me from enjoying the hobby.
Don't worry about the 'technical' stuff, just enjoy what u like! WE 'geeks' will explain what we find out, just for other geeks🤪. Do whatever makes YOU happy!
all of this stuff doesn't really matter till you start spending all your money on the high end stuff lol. just make sure you're being safe with your lipos and you'll be fine. I haven't killed a servo in maybe 6 years.
I kill my servos because I removed the bad servo saver on the outcast 4S.
My favorite servo I've ever bought was a reefs raw 500. I put it in my tekno mt410. It has taken 4 years of complete abuse and still in great shape. The only issue is they are expensive. But I guess if you only ever have to buy 1 it's really not.
Obviously i am too stupid, this was completely useless to me - main point is missing - why does it ruin the servo when there is not enough power ? I would assume when it gets less amps it moves slower or weaker.
The battery is very rarely the culprit for a servo burning up . Endpoints are the most important thing . I get what you were trying to do with this video but I didn’t appreciate how you spoke . We aren’t a bunch of idiots . This is by no means a “scientific “ channel or a true “testing “ channel . I can’t take someone serious when they say “ I got more experience than you ! “ and “ come on guys smarten up “ this isn’t common knowledge for people (nor is it factual information ) how are you backing up your information? How can you prove that tester is accurate? Just because you do something for a long time doesn’t mean you know it all . Maybe if you truly want to help people or show them something don’t talk to them like they are stupid and should know it already . Clearly you don’t know all the information either .
Endpoints are part yes, but parking the truck on an obstacle with pressure against the front wheel will kill a servo almost instantly. Thermal runaway from sustained load. People will park it in a cool looking position on an obstacle, take a picture, or waiting in line at a comp to take on an obstacle. It can overheat remarkably fast.
I do not. Most power problems LIKE I SAID start at the source. You get 10 amps, you drive with 7amps you have 3 amps left. It’s not rocket science
This hobby is full of battery liars. It sux that UA-camrs like KT spread BS lies like "24s" when he really is using four 6s packs in parallel thus he would be using a 6s4p setup but clickbaits and scams ignorant people by saying it's 24s. By his logic a Tesla would be like 7000s.
I run 4s and 3s 9000 milliamp batteries in all of my Crawlers 1/10 same thing with all of my truggy 1/8 and Buggies 8 scale I run 8,000 and up milliamp batteries and all of my servos I have not died plus I run all 1/8 scale brushless systems in my 1/10 crawlers and in my 1/8 scale vehicles