Like you, I was surprised at just how wee it was. None of the hundreds of pilot figures in my odds and sods box fitted. I wanted one to represent one of my all-time heroes, Eric 'Winkle' Brown, who flew one, and reckoned it was 'Delightful to fly'. (He also, famously, flew an Me-163 'Komet', using it's rocket engine, despite being told that he must not, by some Blakey in the air ministry. Brown knew a couple of Luftwaffe engineers who knew where some Komets, their Walter engines, and the lethal 'T-Stoff' and 'C-Stoff' rocket fuel components were hidden. The Luftwaffe blokes begged him not to try it, but Brown wanted to, before the equipment was removed, and probably destroyed. He flew it successfully, and again, was astonished with how beautifully it flew. The Hobby Boss Komet comes with a set of RAF markings, by the way.)
I didn’t understand until the end of the video, (Which you alluded to throughout the build!) that the two Salamander kits were being assembled for a Star Wars themed diorama!The ME262 as Darth Vaders (Tie) Fighter?! I’m gonna go watch that video next! Quite Fun!
Yet another great vid. Thanks for using Humbrol Matt varnish I've used the gloss but never the Matt because never finished one. Except now!👍 Thanks to lockdown I'm finally going to finish one. Thanks for the tips.
A short time ago in a galaxy not far away. Loving these Star Wars builds. You’ve inspired me to swap from my usual Bandai Star Wars kits to try some of these. I have the Spitfire as x-wing, bf 109 as tie. Planning on a mosquito for the y-wing and a Lancaster for the falcon. Looking forward to your diorama. 👍
Currently making a 'space base' (toy) for a kiddie, these are perfect being small and not too expensive. 50+ years ago I used the Airfix SR71 for mine but those are long OOP.
@@SteamGeezerUK The Airfix SR53 had virtually solid wings and the balance was good - So, once the undercarriage broke off after a heavy landing on the carpet, you could pack the nose with sand and PVA and set a nail into it angled back. Then (taking it to the local recreation field) you could launch it using strips of inner tube tied between two trees and it 'flew' brilliantly. It was very robust indeed !
Years ago I built the Frog kit of the Heinkel He162 Salamander and it was a minor nightmare. In comparison a recent build of the HobbyBoss version was an absolute breeze with few of the poor fit problems of Frog edition from the 1960s.
Good lord, theres more packaging than model! As for doing the decals in white, maybe cutting a round stencil and spraying a white circle to lay the decal down onto?
I printed similar decals on white inkjet transfer paper and got fairly good results, though you need a good amount of patience, a steady hand and a clear conscience to trim them.
I thought of that, as I did some white background ones on the Messerschmidt, but this would be a white symbol with no background which would mean cutting the design out completely and I don't have the patience for that :-)
What is that huge loop on the engine? At first glance I thought it wasa suspending device, but I guess there is something else behind it. Radio antenna? I love how you consider 220 to be aggressive :) I'm more used to wood and metal. I start at 40, machine-powered, and work up from there. Fancier levels of finish are usually attained later. 220-grit? Luxury. When I were young I had to sand entire trees with toilet paper.
SteamGeezer and Son Independent Traders was joking, really. When building a kit, infrequently, I probably default to 500 wet and dry for flashing mitigation purposes.
I try to avoid buying any more paints, to be fair. I've got paints that are over 30 years old so I really don't want to be buying any more if I can avoid it :-)
Love your videos & the models you make - you make it all look so effortless. I'm just starting to get back into model making (I used to do it badly up to being a teen & have done very little since). I have a nice little model stash building up along with paints & tools. I've got tamiya and italeri paints so far - what varnishes would you recommend to work with them (asking as I notice that you use several different brands)? Also I'm keen to use the Alclad 2 paints that you often mention, but I'm conscious that they're lacquers (or similar) - do I need to use anything different to clean up my airbrush after using Alclad 2 compared with using tamiya paints? Do I need to swap out any of the seals in my airbrush before using it with Alclad 2 (it's a Sparmax MAX-4 if that makes any difference)? Thanks :)
Thanks :-) I tend to use Humbrol Clear Gloss a lot and I've just started experimenting with Humbrol Clear Matt, although I have a big bottle of Vallejo Matt I use mostly. As for the Alclads, as a lacquer you will need to use a lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush. I use a cheap brand I get from a budget store near me that works fine, but it's aggressive stuff so you must have very good ventilation or you'll gas yourself. I don't know if the Sparmax brush seals are solvent resistant or not - I would advise checking their website or contacting their customer service for a definitive answer. Thanks for watching :-)
It looks like you achieved a nice "engine turned" look for the metal cowlings on the engine intake and exhaust. Practice for another Eindecker? The result of deft application of the Citadel chainmail paint?
I recently got excellent results with Humbrol matt by shaking the bottle a bit longer than usual, then a bit more and then just a little more for luck.
@@ianthomson9363 I shook the bottle for almost 30 minutes. Same results, even tried thinning in different amounts... same. Not sure if its a bad batch or what. Gloss works fantastic. If I was looking for an aged, sun dried look, I nailed it...
How are you spraying it? I literally took mine out of the bottle into the brush and sprayed it at 15psi - no thinner or anything. I'm genuinely curious to find out what causes this so we can try to help folks having the same problem.
I wonder if you have a bottle from a dodgy batch. My bottle, when standing overnight separates into about equal amounts of white stuff at the bottom and clear stuff at the top- is yours similar? Maybe there's more white stuff than clear, which might be an excess of matting agent that dries to the white powder.
I would like to ask you if you are on FB and how much you paid for the JLC saw and the other one where you can use to draw lines on the plane’s body. I really enjoy watching your inspirational videos. PS: the pastels you use are they oil pastels? Can I use the oil pastels because I have them!
Facebook page is in the description, or here - facebook.com/Steamgeezer/ I don't exactly recall how much I paid for the saw. It was at a model show, I think about £17. As for the pastels, I use soft pastels but you can certainly try :-)
Tinted glass??, where are the germans getting tinted glass from when they can't even get metal for the airframe and it was mostly made of wood causing a catastrophic airfraim failure in its test flight killing the pilot, mm yeah tinted glass!!
Like you, I was surprised at just how wee it was. None of the hundreds of pilot figures in my odds and sods box fitted. I wanted one to represent one of my all-time heroes, Eric 'Winkle' Brown, who flew one, and reckoned it was 'Delightful to fly'. (He also, famously, flew an Me-163 'Komet', using it's rocket engine, despite being told that he must not, by some Blakey in the air ministry. Brown knew a couple of Luftwaffe engineers who knew where some Komets, their Walter engines, and the lethal 'T-Stoff' and 'C-Stoff' rocket fuel components were hidden. The Luftwaffe blokes begged him not to try it, but Brown wanted to, before the equipment was removed, and probably destroyed. He flew it successfully, and again, was astonished with how beautifully it flew. The Hobby Boss Komet comes with a set of RAF markings, by the way.)
I never knew that, cheers :-)
The imperator will be proud of you !!
Cheers :-)
Great airplane , excelent work ,and many details !
Glad you liked it!
I couldnt think of a better plane to represent the tie fighter. That's amazing!
Cheers :-)
Nice model kits easy build.
And todaaaaaayyyyy (boom) THIS Hahahaha love that intro nice work buddy loving the videos inspired me to try my hand at it again after many years away
Glad to hear it :-)
I didn’t understand until the end of the video, (Which you alluded to throughout the build!) that the two Salamander kits were being assembled for a Star Wars themed diorama!The ME262 as Darth Vaders (Tie) Fighter?! I’m gonna go watch that video next! Quite Fun!
I did actually think of that after I posted it - I hadn't really explained all that well what was going on :-)
Yet another great vid. Thanks for using Humbrol Matt varnish I've used the gloss but never the Matt because never finished one. Except now!👍 Thanks to lockdown I'm finally going to finish one. Thanks for the tips.
Glad to help :-)
Used it great results 👍
I enjoyed these videos very nice planes.
Glad you enjoyed it :-)
A short time ago in a galaxy not far away.
Loving these Star Wars builds. You’ve inspired me to swap from my usual Bandai Star Wars kits to try some of these. I have the Spitfire as x-wing, bf 109 as tie. Planning on a mosquito for the y-wing and a Lancaster for the falcon. Looking forward to your diorama. 👍
profbrownlove sounds cool
That sounds great. Let us know how you get on with them :-)
I asked before, any chance of a video of what can be done by just using a brush, for those of us who don't have airbrushes? All the best.
I will do at some point. I've got a couple of big projects coming up, but it's on the list.
Another great vlog, makes a nice change from Covid 19 😀
I'm glad you enjoyed it :-)
Very entertaining video and nicely done model :)
Keep it up :)
Cheers :-)
Nice kits
Cheers :-)
Amazing build dude! They do look a bit alien dont they? Keep up the good work!
Cheers :-)
That is really nice. The Hobby Boss Easy Build kits are an interesting bunch.
I'm a big fan of their Harvard, and the MiG-15.
This is the first HobbyBoss kit I've made. I may try some more just for comparison.
@@SteamGeezerUK An old build vid for a Hobby Boss kit. I love their helicopter kits. ua-cam.com/video/YsTC3vO49iw/v-deo.html
Really good video, keep the excellent work up.
Cheers :-)
Hope you have recovered from the lergie good video great ideas
Cheers :-)
Yet another excellent build 👍😆
Cheers :-)
I can just imagine how small those parts are. The 1/48 Tamiya Salamander is a small kit as it is, so; 1/72 must be miniscule. Good job X 2.
Cheers :-)
Currently making a 'space base' (toy) for a kiddie, these are perfect being small and not too expensive. 50+ years ago I used the Airfix SR71 for mine but those are long OOP.
Argh - SR53, the jet with a rocket engine
They'd certainly be good for that - with so few parts they're quite sturdy once they're built.
@@SteamGeezerUK The Airfix SR53 had virtually solid wings and the balance was good - So, once the undercarriage broke off after a heavy landing on the carpet, you could pack the nose with sand and PVA and set a nail into it angled back. Then (taking it to the local recreation field) you could launch it using strips of inner tube tied between two trees and it 'flew' brilliantly. It was very robust indeed !
Wonderful!
Cheers :-)
Years ago I built the Frog kit of the Heinkel He162 Salamander and it was a minor nightmare. In comparison a recent build of the HobbyBoss version was an absolute breeze with few of the poor fit problems of Frog edition from the 1960s.
i suspect a trench run diorama next week
Shhh...
Good lord, theres more packaging than model!
As for doing the decals in white, maybe cutting a round stencil and spraying a white circle to lay the decal down onto?
I printed similar decals on white inkjet transfer paper and got fairly good results, though you need a good amount of patience, a steady hand and a clear conscience to trim them.
I thought of that, as I did some white background ones on the Messerschmidt, but this would be a white symbol with no background which would mean cutting the design out completely and I don't have the patience for that :-)
I want that for myself tie fighter edition.
looks great. FYI the "wings" on TIEs are solar panels
That's what I always thought, but someone said on another video they were heat sinks. I'm not that fussed either way to be honest :-)
I might have to do this and buy a tie fighter and some other plane and swap the paint and decals over
Try it. It's good fun :-)
What is that huge loop on the engine? At first glance I thought it wasa suspending device, but I guess there is something else behind it. Radio antenna?
I love how you consider 220 to be aggressive :)
I'm more used to wood and metal. I start at 40, machine-powered, and work up from there. Fancier levels of finish are usually attained later.
220-grit? Luxury. When I were young I had to sand entire trees with toilet paper.
Yes, it's a radio antenna. I do a lot of wood and metal work, so 220 would normally be a finishing grit, but for models it's crazy aggressive :-)
SteamGeezer and Son Independent Traders was joking, really. When building a kit, infrequently, I probably default to 500 wet and dry for flashing mitigation purposes.
@@AJC508 I know :-) I'm actually tempted to hit a model with a 60 grit drum sander one day just for a laugh :-)
A great build. Love how they came out. I'm gueasing Trench Run?
Kind of ;-)
If you want a kit of the same with engine and cockpit Tomiya or Hasahawa had a 1/48 kit out. Sorry about the spelling i know its awful!
Yes, I've seen them, but these are going on a 1/72 diorama so I was a bit more limited in choice :-)
A color you should try for your engines instead of citadel chainmail (forvthe weathered parts of bare metal) is P3 brands acrylic paint 'pig iron'.👍
I try to avoid buying any more paints, to be fair. I've got paints that are over 30 years old so I really don't want to be buying any more if I can avoid it :-)
Wow, that was fast. How long did it take you build & paint both? About a day I reckon...
Anyway, can't wait to see what you do with it. Great vid.
It was about four hours for both, all in.
Love your videos & the models you make - you make it all look so effortless.
I'm just starting to get back into model making (I used to do it badly up to being a teen & have done very little since). I have a nice little model stash building up along with paints & tools. I've got tamiya and italeri paints so far - what varnishes would you recommend to work with them (asking as I notice that you use several different brands)? Also I'm keen to use the Alclad 2 paints that you often mention, but I'm conscious that they're lacquers (or similar) - do I need to use anything different to clean up my airbrush after using Alclad 2 compared with using tamiya paints? Do I need to swap out any of the seals in my airbrush before using it with Alclad 2 (it's a Sparmax MAX-4 if that makes any difference)?
Thanks :)
Thanks :-) I tend to use Humbrol Clear Gloss a lot and I've just started experimenting with Humbrol Clear Matt, although I have a big bottle of Vallejo Matt I use mostly.
As for the Alclads, as a lacquer you will need to use a lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush. I use a cheap brand I get from a budget store near me that works fine, but it's aggressive stuff so you must have very good ventilation or you'll gas yourself.
I don't know if the Sparmax brush seals are solvent resistant or not - I would advise checking their website or contacting their customer service for a definitive answer.
Thanks for watching :-)
@@SteamGeezerUK
Excellent - thanks :)
Not quite half the span SG! Me262 is 41 ft 4, Hurricane is 40ft and Spitfire is 36ft 10,
It looks like you achieved a nice "engine turned" look for the metal cowlings on the engine intake and exhaust. Practice for another Eindecker? The result of deft application of the Citadel chainmail paint?
Actually no. I never recorded it, but it was Alclad Airframe Aluminium with Humbrol Clear Matt over the top, nothing fancy.
Looks like I’m first.. hehe... great stuff Mr Geezer..
Cheers :-)
My Humbrol matt varnish turns everything white. Its like a dusting of white powder...
I recently got excellent results with Humbrol matt by shaking the bottle a bit longer than usual, then a bit more and then just a little more for luck.
@@ianthomson9363 I shook the bottle for almost 30 minutes. Same results, even tried thinning in different amounts... same. Not sure if its a bad batch or what. Gloss works fantastic. If I was looking for an aged, sun dried look, I nailed it...
How are you spraying it? I literally took mine out of the bottle into the brush and sprayed it at 15psi - no thinner or anything. I'm genuinely curious to find out what causes this so we can try to help folks having the same problem.
@@SteamGeezerUK straight outta the bottle...
I wonder if you have a bottle from a dodgy batch. My bottle, when standing overnight separates into about equal amounts of white stuff at the bottom and clear stuff at the top- is yours similar? Maybe there's more white stuff than clear, which might be an excess of matting agent that dries to the white powder.
I would like to ask you if you are on FB and how much you paid for the JLC saw and the other one where you can use to draw lines on the plane’s body. I really enjoy watching your inspirational videos. PS: the pastels you use are they oil pastels? Can I use the oil pastels because I have them!
Facebook page is in the description, or here - facebook.com/Steamgeezer/
I don't exactly recall how much I paid for the saw. It was at a model show, I think about £17. As for the pastels, I use soft pastels but you can certainly try :-)
that kit looks like it costs about 5-8 dollars
I don't remember exactly how much, but it wasn't far off that.
Tinted glass??, where are the germans getting tinted glass from when they can't even get metal for the airframe and it was mostly made of wood causing a catastrophic airfraim failure in its test flight killing the pilot, mm yeah tinted glass!!