One thing that you are missing that is very important is the frequency. The frequency must be 60 HZ (Hertz) when not under load. The frequency and voltage are controlled by engine speed. That is why there is an engine speed adjustment. There should also be a governor that will increase the engine speed under load. You should measure the voltages with a multimeter before you connect it to your machinery. Some multimeters can measure the frequency as well. It will show an HZ on the meter selection. You could permanently damage your equipment if you do not set the correct voltage and frequency.
I have the same Genny. Runs great. But I can't get excitation current to provide any voltage output greater than 17 volts AC. I have the entire Manuel pdf for all three of these models
Auxillary fuel pump is for running off of a external tank. The brass fitting down by the pump is where that would connect. never move the voltage selectors when the engine is running, and you will need to figure out the hz meter or use a voltmeter to make sure your running 60 hz.
I'm 67 and I have to say that one of the things I get from your channel is that it gets me off my ass and gets me out fixing my own stuff that's been sitting around for years. You're good! I like the way you work.
That is the most unique piece I've ever seen....what an amazing opportunity for you to showcase your phenomenal restoration skills on. BRAVO yet again. Your part of the world truly does have a love and appreciation for saving these one of a kind masterpieces from the past. Thank you for another satisfying and inspirational video.
What a good find. With its 3 phase capable operation and a reliable diesel, it’s a heck of a resource when needed. Clean it up a bit more and such and she’s ready for another 30 years of service.
Matt,You might be able to crank the voltage up from 120/208 to 137/240, but you still only have 3 kW. The regulator may do " voltage roll out" if overloaded. This would explain why your band saw start switch had to be held in until the motor came up to speed. If you tried to cut metal, the saw's contactor would probably drop out. As far as the auxiliary pump, that pump is very common on marine generators, both gas and diesel. It looks like it has a shielded power lead so what you thought was a heater is probably an RFI noise filter. The military shields everything. Older Onan marine gas generators ran aircraft style shielded spark plugs so it would not disrupt 2 way marine radio. The auxiliary pump suction is the quick disconnect fitting. The bottom cap will come off with a bayonet style mount revealing a filter. I have also seen the clear plastic breaker cover on what they call a shore power intermediate breaker on pleasure boats with stern connected shore power. A marine supply might be a source. Nice to hear from you again.
Section 2.2 of the TM says the voltage output can be changed to 120-240. The output selector switch is located in the control box. Also we always set the no load frequency to 60.5 Hz unless it was a “precise power” unit.
Never hurts to have a little extra speed to lose a little if the load kicks up; I really don't think you'll see anything much weirder than clocks running a little fast at a ~1% difference
It's not always easy to get those old beauties up and running. But boy it sure is satisfying when you do. Can't wait to see you get back to the old woodworking machines someday.
Holding the button just energizes an auxiliary contact that energizes the coil that pulls in the magnetic switch on the motor (starter)controller energizing T1,T2,T3 which sends 3phase power to your load. The coil is typically 120 volt., but could be a 208 volt coil. Don’t run 240 volt motors on 208. Check voltage with multimeter from L0 to L1(120volts), L0 to L2 (120volts) L0 to L3 (120volts) then between phases L1 to L2 (240volts), L1 to L3 (240volts), L2 to L3 (240volts). Check wiring diagram of the generator stator to see if wired differently it could generate 240 v
He would just need a vfd controller to use 208 on 240 motors but considering they're the same price as a battery that he isn't willing to spend, I'd say that's not an option for him 😅
Congratulations to the new generator, new to you, and that's what counts. Good to see that your uncle is there to help you. Get a hold of C & C Equipment, They can get all kinds of military parts, vehicles included.
this generator will run forever. Just keep the oil changed, and always use fresh gas. I was responsible for testing out the quiet reliable generators for the 18th Airborne Corps in the Army, back in 1987-88. Military generators are very reliable. I want a 50K when I retire.
Looks like a solid piece of kit, especially for the price! The only suggestion I have to make it more practical is to make permanent what you did temporarily in this video. Weld up some RHS to make a forkliftable frame, then attach it permanently beneath the existing generator frame. On the bottom of the tubes that the fork tines go into, attach some large diameter puncture proof castor wheels (at least two of them braked). Being ex-military it will already have lifting/tie down points, so you're covered for that.
That phenomena with the bandsaw is caused by inrush current, it needs probably a 10-15kW capable surge generator to start up reliably, wheres this 3kW genset probably only has a 5-6kW surge capacity. A second thing is voltage, as the genset is only 208V the voltage during startup drops below the pull and hold voltage of the contactor, which means it does not latch in the on position until the motor is up to speed where the voltage is able to climb back up to 208 or atleast close to, and barely at that.
if you are running for some time check your 60hz with an electric ie plug in, clock. if it keeps good time your gen-set is running at the right speed. matt be careful. ground that unit so that you can't be killed by the electric. this is easy to forget when producing your own power. i want to watch you for along time to come
That was so great Matt nice generater could not run better thank you for sharing and your time was really great never miss a video and can't wait for next video.
For Parts and info - You should be able call up the Manufacturer (Onan Corp), and give them the Model Number and NSN, and they might be able to get you a manual & parts list. NATO Standard for all Vehicles is 24 Volt - as is the fact that it's Diesel.
James Condon has a youtube channel. He diagnoses the the generator power head and the engines. I’ve never seen him work on a diesel however. I’ve never seem him stumped on generator a generator powerhead.
Ah, brings back memories from the military only used 1 that small 1 time most of ours were 20, 30, and 40kw generators and were all trailer generators as electrician and former military user of those machines you definitely want to check the HZ output because all of the ones I was using were 50 and 60Hz capable
Protec is a wix brand BTW and is only designed to be used with conventional motor oil. Also, it's the bottom of the barrel for Wix like the orange Fram that was already on it in frams filter lineup... In comparison. I'd still say it's a decent filter for light use and regular oil changes using non synthetic oils
I can't speak for other branches but we had a few of these when I was AD USAF. I was in a TALCE squadron (Tanker AirLift Control Element) and we would go into airbases that did not have suitable Command & Control setups (anything from established remote asphalt runways to dirt setups in the boonies), so for smaller setups where we didn't need our big C&C control shelter to set up we would send one of these generators along with a small comm suite package. So we could set up secure satcom communications with the HQ in Scott AFB, IL, as well as UHF and VHF radios for talking to planes arriving and departing (we had the ability to set up HF antenna farms as well, but the Walker Spy Ring destroyed our ability to transmit encrypted. So I was told). Beam all that info to HQ until the full amount of cargo was received and then pack it all up and send it off to wherever it needed to go. These generators are really wonderful. Back then the military designed these things to work practically anywhere and to be able to sustain absolute beatings in the harshest of settings, so it does not surprise me at all that it fired right up after a minimum of effort. Bear in mind I got out in 97' so I'm very rusty on it, but I very much recall the throttle control knob that you could adjust the idle. It was a black plastic/bakelite knob with scalloped edges attached to a long steel rod that connected to the linkages you guys are adjusting on the side. I was one of the COMM guys in the unit and we had a cadre of generator guys as part of our squadron that would come along with us whenever we deployed. The slave socket you examined on the front of the unit could plug into vehicles (if you see an older Hummer or older GMC Blazer military truck you'll see matching sockets near the night vision light on the front grille). In addition to this you can use variations of this cable plug in that would allow you to hard wire the generator into allowing power generation to small outdoor camp arrangements, certain amounts of lighting for A frame tents and such for austere airfield setups in the boonies. The cable would plug in one side on the adapter, and the other end of the cable would break into its component 3 phase wiring arrangement that could hard wire into a small electrical circuit for a small amount of tents. We carried much larger wheeled generators that could power whole tent cities if we arranged them in parallel. Like I said, I wasn't one of the generator guys and knew only enough to make me dangerous with regards to these units. One small note, I recall the generator guys telling me these had a weird sort of wiring arrangement/color scheme for attaching to hard circuits. There's 4 color wires and they have to go in a specific order to power stuff, remembered by the mnemonic, George Washington Rode Backwards: Green/White/Red/Black. Again, I am VERY rusty. It's been almost 30 years. They are absolutely wonderful and reliable generators and if you ever have a hard power outage due to storms, natural disasters, or the Norks dropping the US power grid, this bad boy is full analog and can power your house for eons, provided you have enough diesel to keep it powered. I am jealous as hell you managed to find one of these hardy units for so very little! I've shared this video with my TALCE buddies and I'm hoping the generator guys (or perhaps even a few of the Comm guys) can come in and help you out with the finer details! Well done, sir! I envy you!!
Also...and I know I'm going to regret this because it has been a *really* long time since I operated one of these units and I could easily be misremembering...but I think the variable idle control was a fine tuning adjustment for the voltage output. I could very well be wrong. But you can test the theory out by having one person monitor the voltage output and the other moving the linkage back and forth to see if it pans out.
Military equipment always runs on 24V and there is a standardized NATO plug, in german called Schweinenase (pig nose) due to it's shape, to give start assist from one vehicule to another, be it a tank, heavy truck or a jeep.
I would advise you to purchase a manual on that generator , when i was in the military all generators were required to have a ground rod to elemenate elecetral shock !
I like the Gehl skid steer.. This I think is my favorite machine to run of all manufactures.. I have a John Deere 325 and have had it for four years with no repairs other than replacing the A/C compressor.. A bit of advise to keep your driveway smoother and make your tires last longer..... Roll rather than turn in one spot.. Good video..
Great to see someone cleaning before they start, that got you a like before I even watched the video. I don’t know how folk can stand to work on something that’s filthy . Good job
I found a parts breakdown on line. The throttle is just like a simple aircraft throttle. You screw it in for faster, unscrew it for slower. There is a thumb button in the middle of the know that uncouples the threads and allows you to simply push or pull the knob quickly.
That fuel pump is a Bendix Clack-Clack fuel pump. They came in 6Vdc, 12Vdc, 24Vcd and I don't know if there were others. They were very common when I was a lot younger. I'm 83 yrs old. That one is probably 24Vdc. You could use anything the same voltage to replace it if it's bad.
On a positive note,I enjoy people that save things from destruction.On the negative side you never checked the oil or pulled the air filter.Just my thought.
Love watching your junk to jewel videos. And an Onan single throatier to boot? My motorhome has an Onan diesel generator with a three cylinder Kubota. I kind of expected it to sound like an old John Deere one cylinder “poppy john” tractor. Keep it up. Looking forward to that genset’s big brother.
Very useful. You know military diesels will run on whatever crap is available. I bet you could cobble up a mechanism to raise the revs, just a simple cam affair would work.
Very nice little find you got there. I had the opportunity to pick 1 of these up from an auction a few months ago, but someone wanted it more than I did, so I didn't end up winning it.
Wix makes Protec. What funny with me, my 99 GMC Suburban ate the guts of a new Wix filter, got some of the internal filter material stuck in the oil adapter thing on the truck, one day I had no oil pressure, made it home, and decided to do a quick oil change just to see, and the Wix filter was coming apart internally, I took the oil filter apart just to make sure, and yeah it was indeed coming apart, I threw on a old Fram I had to get by, I had to end up taking the oil pan off to dig out the pickup, and threw it back together with a AC Delco and no problems since. I contacted Wix with pictures and I sent in the oil filter and the only thing they offered me was a new filter for my truck, no oil change or anything, whatever I declined as I wasn't going to run it anyway, I wont touch them again personally, I'd ran Fram before I touch a Wix again, even if it was just a one off.
to answer your question as to why you had to hold the start button for an extended period of time is because of the lower voltage. you did not have enough voltage to hold in the run contact. running at 240 vac 3 ph will naturaly give you the voltage to hold in the contact.
Turn the speed up to its highest. That’s why you had to hold the run button down longer. hSelect the highest current select. Most electric motors are designed to work with 208/230vac so you should be fine. In hvac we would wire the control transformer for 208 or 240. Running 208 on a transformer set for 240 will weaken contactors.
That has A 32-volt difference is from 240-volts minus - 32-volts =208-volts three phase set-up. Basically you need 32-volt input from A secondary plugged in generator.,or off of switched DC current over to AC current power to add.,or make up for loss voltage required to run 240-volts power output source.
Great video,never seen one of these,minor problems,minor tweaking,I believe you will have a nice addition to your collection,once you get it the way you want it.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎
I started a Volvo car with a VW 100hp diesel engine, and the fuel was 5 years old, and the car actually started. It was low in cetane, so it had yellow smoke when it was running, but it did run okay.
The main threads I come across in europe are BSPP 55° round threads, in inches (but not the diameter of the threads, you have to look that up!) BSPT 55° round threads, which is the same as BSPP but tapered NPT 60° flat threads, tapered, with a different thread pitch than BSP! eg. BSP 3/8" has 19 TPI and NPT has 18 TPI (Diameter also not equal to name) And metric 60° flat threads, here the diameter matches Name. Eg M14 has 14mm diameter.
did you get that from a guy in pekin il? somehow it showed up on my market place in west palm beach flordia lol, and he said he was coming down here in a week and might be able to bring it.. never heard back from him.. was even on a pallet like that.. pretty cool!. you need to get the cycles up to 61-63 for it to start that band saw without holding the switch so long.. just needs a manual throttle cable thats missing to fine tune the rpms to up the hertz. as for the battery issue, cut the frame for the battery tray and modify it to use two 90s honda civic 12v batteries.. needs to have them to properly regulate the voltage or you will damage the charging system and overheat the regulator
There is another thing to consider 208 is a wye connection on a transformer. Look up connections for transformers and see what the generator has It could be wye, delta, or combination of the two. It might be even possible to add a capacitor bank to the generator that you could switch on or off depending on what equipment you want to test it on. Checking the transformer type against the equipment is important to get as close to the voltage ratings as possible. If numbers don't match up performance will suffer. The name plate on the equipment you are trying out should be closely matched with the output of the generator. That means volts, amps, ohms, and any other resistances. If you do put in a capacitor bank you could switch the bank on or off based on need or requirements your equipment you try out is in need of.
If I wanted to boost the genset from 208 to 240v I would use 3 x 35v 240v 5a transformers which would give about 30v output with 208v on the primary, one for each phase. You would wire each transformer primary across a 208v phase output but wire the 35v secondaries each in series with its phase to boost 208 to ~240v. The transformers only need to be rated for the load current at 35v say 200w and not 3kw !
The auxilary fuel pump is probably 12 Volt, so there there is a resistant put in series with the pump to operate it under 24 Volts. You had to hold the startbutton for the saw you connected, that's because the voltage will drop (sack) for a few seconds (because of the starting current is higher than the generator can deliver) and then is regulated correctly again. Nice generator by the way. Maybe handy to put the same type auxilary battery connector on your truck( in case it's a;so 24 Volt) and use a jumper-cable.
When you press the start button power goes through it to the motor contactor coil, then when you let go power goes through the contactor maintain contact and the stop button to the coil and the contactor stays in, I suspect the contactor maintain contact or the stop buttons contact reisitance is a little on the high side, so when the motor is spooling up the voltage drop from the bad contacts and the voltage being pulled low by the motor there isnt enough juice to hold the contactor in.
Or whatever size you said In the standard pitch thread size. Onan generators are made in Germany and France they use metric sizes A lot on their stuff over there like other countries do to.
A NATO field plug is a charging solution that can be used with NATO ground tactical vehicles, which are equipped with a 24-volt DC port. The thing at the low pressure fuel pump is a power resistor?
Running your 240v 3phase motors on 208 will burn them up quickly. You can get by usually with a 10% voltage difference but you are way above the tolerance. Would not recommend it for that application.
I would like to know what you have against FRAM filters,they seem to work just fine here in Europe.or is it that you are not used to see them that often and are just sceptical of other brands than you normally use?
You are force loading your saw motor will ground short ,be careful. Generator voltage regulator is also not going to take that for along time. 22 mm and 13/16 inches one metric one USA, generator has a British engine so it's metric.That electric fuel pump setup is when they hook up with a fuel trailer.
I haje a bad voltage regulator and it wont give ma any excitation current to provide any voltage output above 17VAC I do have the pdf file for all series of this genny. It came in 24vdc output as well
Yet we need to refit those spare power generators we have which use the batteries externally even since the 80’s but now also need to hook up with solar and wind arrays fir starters and soon combine with eventual fusion energy+ hydrogen or alcohol alternative to petrol and even biofuel like corn based ethanol etc
You stole that generator, lol. You will normally pay several times that much for one that is half as powerful. That is amazing. You definitely have room to invest a little money into it. That generator would bring good money if you ever decide to sell it.
I can't understand why a three phase gen would only have top voltage of 208 no 240 or 380 which is our standard 3 phase here in South Africa and normal single phase 240 V.
1. If you aren't going to replace the wiring, I would coat them with liquid rubber or Flex-Seal. 2. If you're going to use that beast at home, I would build a soundproof shelter so you don't piss off your neighbors! LOL! By the way, WHERE'S OLD RED?!?!?!?
The slave receptacle is indeed for 24v connection. It is also used on most nato vehicles to add a quick and easy way to jumpstart them. Most 24v vehicles have an external "pig nose" connector like that for jumpstarting etc.
"The smart thing to do would be not to do that again. But, we're going to do that again." And again, and again. But you made it work. Yet another awesome recovery.
"the guy I bought it from said since he couldn't get it running, then I NEVER would!" That made me smile! So, thanks for that. I do enjoy watching you go through the motions of making this thing run. Good job!
There's a few things on that that match the generator we have on our bucket truck at work. Here's my take on a few of them: 1. The coating on the wires isn't cloth. It's asbestos. I would recommend wrapping them with foil cord wrapping. That's what we did. 2. The slave plug is to run generators in series. They link together to provide more wattage, but also they link together to start each other with 1 battery. 3. you need to set your voltage gain when it's under load. that controls the Hz, and we use 60Hz here in the US. But you can run 3 phase on 70Hz, that's why you were able to run a 240V with 208V. 4. The idle speed switch is missing, but that's not actually needed when the unit is a slave. The idle is controlled by the master. You might want to locate one of those so it will idle down when not under load. 5. You might want to have a tech take a look at it and check the sine wave. If the sine wave is off you take the risk of burning up some electronics...learned that the hard way. RIP brand new LED shop light. 6. When you're looking for parts, check Cummins first. Onon is owned by Cummins so they might have parts. I suggest calling the Cummins in Indianapolis. They're the best around, and really great guys. They'll be able to help you out.
If you want to loom up those wires, use fiberglass, do not use a metal braid, as the braid itself will wear against the wires as the generator runs and vibrates and will cause a massive short.
I have a 4 cylinder version of this from 1986, It's by far the heaviest duty most reliable generator I've ever owned. It ran our entire house and a cord to the neighbor's from Sunday to Sunday around the clock last hurricane season.
We had several of these in my shop while in the service. Usually used them if we needed power in a tight spot where we couldn't get a larger generator in or if we went out into the field which we often did. Works great and I wish I had one.
One thing that you are missing that is very important is the frequency. The frequency must be 60 HZ (Hertz) when not under load. The frequency and voltage are controlled by engine speed. That is why there is an engine speed adjustment. There should also be a governor that will increase the engine speed under load. You should measure the voltages with a multimeter before you connect it to your machinery. Some multimeters can measure the frequency as well. It will show an HZ on the meter selection. You could permanently damage your equipment if you do not set the correct voltage and frequency.
Perfect info.
I have the same Genny. Runs great. But I can't get excitation current to provide any voltage output greater than 17 volts AC. I have the entire Manuel pdf for all three of these models
The frequency should also remain at 60 Hz with a load
@OldFatBubba You are correct. I meant to add that but I failed to do so. Yes I watch James Condon who is with no doubt the generator master.
@@Brrrap743 +/- a couple of Hz.
Auxillary fuel pump is for running off of a external tank. The brass fitting down by the pump is where that would connect. never move the voltage selectors when the engine is running, and you will need to figure out the hz meter or use a voltmeter to make sure your running 60 hz.
I'm 67 and I have to say that one of the things I get from your channel is that it gets me off my ass and gets me out fixing my own stuff that's been sitting around for years. You're good! I like the way you work.
That is the most unique piece I've ever seen....what an amazing opportunity for you to showcase your phenomenal restoration skills on. BRAVO yet again. Your part of the world truly does have a love and appreciation for saving these one of a kind masterpieces from the past. Thank you for another satisfying and inspirational video.
What a good find. With its 3 phase capable operation and a reliable diesel, it’s a heck of a resource when needed. Clean it up a bit more and such and she’s ready for another 30 years of service.
Matt,You might be able to crank the voltage up from 120/208 to 137/240, but you still only have 3 kW. The regulator may do " voltage roll out" if overloaded. This would explain why your band saw start switch had to be held in until the motor came up to speed. If you tried to cut metal, the saw's contactor would probably drop out. As far as the auxiliary pump, that pump is very common on marine generators, both gas and diesel. It looks like it has a shielded power lead so what you thought was a heater is probably an RFI noise filter. The military shields everything. Older Onan marine gas generators ran aircraft style shielded spark plugs so it would not disrupt 2 way marine radio. The auxiliary pump suction is the quick disconnect fitting. The bottom cap will come off with a bayonet style mount revealing a filter. I have also seen the clear plastic breaker cover on what they call a shore power intermediate breaker on pleasure boats with stern connected shore power. A marine supply might be a source. Nice to hear from you again.
Section 2.2 of the TM says the voltage output can be changed to 120-240. The output selector switch is located in the control box. Also we always set the no load frequency to 60.5 Hz unless it was a “precise power” unit.
Never hurts to have a little extra speed to lose a little if the load kicks up; I really don't think you'll see anything much weirder than clocks running a little fast at a ~1% difference
It's not always easy to get those old beauties up and running. But boy it sure is satisfying when you do. Can't wait to see you get back to the old woodworking machines someday.
Holding the button just energizes an auxiliary contact that energizes the coil that pulls in the magnetic switch on the motor (starter)controller energizing T1,T2,T3 which sends 3phase power to your load. The coil is typically 120 volt., but could be a 208 volt coil. Don’t run 240 volt motors on 208. Check voltage with multimeter from L0 to L1(120volts), L0 to L2 (120volts) L0 to L3 (120volts) then between phases L1 to L2 (240volts), L1 to L3 (240volts), L2 to L3 (240volts). Check wiring diagram of the generator stator to see if wired differently it could generate 240 v
He would just need a vfd controller to use 208 on 240 motors but considering they're the same price as a battery that he isn't willing to spend, I'd say that's not an option for him 😅
208 volt L1 to L2 = 120 volt L0 to L1 on 3 phase
Congratulations to the new generator, new to you, and that's what counts. Good to see that your uncle is there to help you. Get a hold of C & C Equipment, They can get all kinds of military parts, vehicles included.
this generator will run forever. Just keep the oil changed, and always use fresh gas. I was responsible for testing out the quiet reliable generators for the 18th Airborne Corps in the Army, back in 1987-88. Military generators are very reliable. I want a 50K when I retire.
Looks like a solid piece of kit, especially for the price! The only suggestion I have to make it more practical is to make permanent what you did temporarily in this video.
Weld up some RHS to make a forkliftable frame, then attach it permanently beneath the existing generator frame. On the bottom of the tubes that the fork tines go into, attach some large diameter puncture proof castor wheels (at least two of them braked). Being ex-military it will already have lifting/tie down points, so you're covered for that.
That phenomena with the bandsaw is caused by inrush current, it needs probably a 10-15kW capable surge generator to start up reliably, wheres this 3kW genset probably only has a 5-6kW surge capacity.
A second thing is voltage, as the genset is only 208V the voltage during startup drops below the pull and hold voltage of the contactor, which means it does not latch in the on position until the motor is up to speed where the voltage is able to climb back up to 208 or atleast close to, and barely at that.
Yup low voltage and wattage.
The coil voltage, for the contactor, is probably in the brown out range (below 100vac).
BTW, 120/208Y is normally used for lighting and receptacle power.
You could also use a VFD to help prevent in rush current and or add some ac capacitors.
if you are running for some time check your 60hz with an electric ie plug in, clock. if it keeps good time your gen-set is running at the right speed. matt be careful. ground that unit so that you can't be killed by the electric. this is easy to forget when producing your own power. i want to watch you for along time to come
That was so great Matt nice generater could not run better thank you for sharing and your time was really great never miss a video and can't wait for next video.
For Parts and info - You should be able call up the Manufacturer (Onan Corp), and give them the Model Number and NSN, and they might be able to get you a manual & parts list.
NATO Standard for all Vehicles is 24 Volt - as is the fact that it's Diesel.
James Condon has a youtube channel. He diagnoses the the generator power head and the engines. I’ve never seen him work on a diesel however. I’ve never seem him stumped on generator a generator powerhead.
Ah, brings back memories from the military only used 1 that small 1 time most of ours were 20, 30, and 40kw generators and were all trailer generators as electrician and former military user of those machines you definitely want to check the HZ output because all of the ones I was using were 50 and 60Hz capable
It's good to see you back again. You have been missed ❤
Protec is a wix brand BTW and is only designed to be used with conventional motor oil. Also, it's the bottom of the barrel for Wix like the orange Fram that was already on it in frams filter lineup... In comparison. I'd still say it's a decent filter for light use and regular oil changes using non synthetic oils
I can't speak for other branches but we had a few of these when I was AD USAF. I was in a TALCE squadron (Tanker AirLift Control Element) and we would go into airbases that did not have suitable Command & Control setups (anything from established remote asphalt runways to dirt setups in the boonies), so for smaller setups where we didn't need our big C&C control shelter to set up we would send one of these generators along with a small comm suite package. So we could set up secure satcom communications with the HQ in Scott AFB, IL, as well as UHF and VHF radios for talking to planes arriving and departing (we had the ability to set up HF antenna farms as well, but the Walker Spy Ring destroyed our ability to transmit encrypted. So I was told). Beam all that info to HQ until the full amount of cargo was received and then pack it all up and send it off to wherever it needed to go.
These generators are really wonderful. Back then the military designed these things to work practically anywhere and to be able to sustain absolute beatings in the harshest of settings, so it does not surprise me at all that it fired right up after a minimum of effort. Bear in mind I got out in 97' so I'm very rusty on it, but I very much recall the throttle control knob that you could adjust the idle. It was a black plastic/bakelite knob with scalloped edges attached to a long steel rod that connected to the linkages you guys are adjusting on the side. I was one of the COMM guys in the unit and we had a cadre of generator guys as part of our squadron that would come along with us whenever we deployed. The slave socket you examined on the front of the unit could plug into vehicles (if you see an older Hummer or older GMC Blazer military truck you'll see matching sockets near the night vision light on the front grille). In addition to this you can use variations of this cable plug in that would allow you to hard wire the generator into allowing power generation to small outdoor camp arrangements, certain amounts of lighting for A frame tents and such for austere airfield setups in the boonies. The cable would plug in one side on the adapter, and the other end of the cable would break into its component 3 phase wiring arrangement that could hard wire into a small electrical circuit for a small amount of tents. We carried much larger wheeled generators that could power whole tent cities if we arranged them in parallel.
Like I said, I wasn't one of the generator guys and knew only enough to make me dangerous with regards to these units. One small note, I recall the generator guys telling me these had a weird sort of wiring arrangement/color scheme for attaching to hard circuits. There's 4 color wires and they have to go in a specific order to power stuff, remembered by the mnemonic, George Washington Rode Backwards: Green/White/Red/Black. Again, I am VERY rusty. It's been almost 30 years. They are absolutely wonderful and reliable generators and if you ever have a hard power outage due to storms, natural disasters, or the Norks dropping the US power grid, this bad boy is full analog and can power your house for eons, provided you have enough diesel to keep it powered. I am jealous as hell you managed to find one of these hardy units for so very little! I've shared this video with my TALCE buddies and I'm hoping the generator guys (or perhaps even a few of the Comm guys) can come in and help you out with the finer details! Well done, sir! I envy you!!
Also...and I know I'm going to regret this because it has been a *really* long time since I operated one of these units and I could easily be misremembering...but I think the variable idle control was a fine tuning adjustment for the voltage output. I could very well be wrong. But you can test the theory out by having one person monitor the voltage output and the other moving the linkage back and forth to see if it pans out.
It has been a long time since I have seen any videos update from you, sure would be nice to see more from you more often !
You really need to get the TM manual for that Genset it will help you out a lot . Steel Soldiers should have what you need .
If you can find the TM, get the dash 15 or the dash 35 version of the TM.
Military equipment always runs on 24V and there is a standardized NATO plug, in german called Schweinenase (pig nose) due to it's shape, to give start assist from one vehicule to another, be it a tank, heavy truck or a jeep.
I would advise you to purchase a manual on that generator , when i was in the military all generators were required to have a ground rod to elemenate elecetral shock !
I like the Gehl skid steer.. This I think is my favorite machine to run of all manufactures.. I have a John Deere 325 and have had it for four years with no repairs other than replacing the A/C compressor.. A bit of advise to keep your driveway smoother and make your tires last longer..... Roll rather than turn in one spot.. Good video..
Sounds really sweet, nice bit of kit and very useful. 👍🤗
Great to see someone cleaning before they start, that got you a like before I even watched the video. I don’t know how folk can stand to work on something that’s filthy . Good job
I saw that pro-tec filter said it was made in Gastonia, NC so it’s a Wix/Afina or now it’s called Mann&Hummel. They make filters for Orileys too.
I found a parts breakdown on line. The throttle is just like a simple aircraft throttle. You screw it in for faster, unscrew it for slower. There is a thumb button in the middle of the know that uncouples the threads and allows you to simply push or pull the knob quickly.
F'n autocorrupt that doesn't know the difference between "know" and "knob".
That fuel pump is a Bendix Clack-Clack fuel pump. They came in 6Vdc, 12Vdc, 24Vcd and I don't know if there were others. They were very common when I was a lot younger. I'm 83 yrs old. That one is probably 24Vdc. You could use anything the same voltage to replace it if it's bad.
On a positive note,I enjoy people that save things from destruction.On the negative side you never checked the oil or pulled the air filter.Just my thought.
hi i really admire how you tackle the problems keep up making videos Greetings from Amsterdam Holland
FYI- your uncle's shirt ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love watching your junk to jewel videos. And an Onan single throatier to boot? My motorhome has an Onan diesel generator with a three cylinder Kubota. I kind of expected it to sound like an old John Deere one cylinder “poppy john” tractor. Keep it up. Looking forward to that genset’s big brother.
Quite a shop! My first time here!
Very useful. You know military diesels will run on whatever crap is available.
I bet you could cobble up a mechanism to raise the revs, just a simple cam affair would work.
Thank you for sharing ,i learn a lot and i have a pleasure watch your video 👍👍👍👍
Good choice, always handy👍💪
The bandsaw is probably needing more than 3kw to get it started due to the weight of the flywheel, but less than 3kw once it's up to speed
Very nice little find you got there. I had the opportunity to pick 1 of these up from an auction a few months ago, but someone wanted it more than I did, so I didn't end up winning it.
MUST BE READY FOR SERVICE SOLDER'S CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT GOING THEY NEED IT NOW.
Wix makes Protec. What funny with me, my 99 GMC Suburban ate the guts of a new Wix filter, got some of the internal filter material stuck in the oil adapter thing on the truck, one day I had no oil pressure, made it home, and decided to do a quick oil change just to see, and the Wix filter was coming apart internally, I took the oil filter apart just to make sure, and yeah it was indeed coming apart, I threw on a old Fram I had to get by, I had to end up taking the oil pan off to dig out the pickup, and threw it back together with a AC Delco and no problems since.
I contacted Wix with pictures and I sent in the oil filter and the only thing they offered me was a new filter for my truck, no oil change or anything, whatever I declined as I wasn't going to run it anyway, I wont touch them again personally, I'd ran Fram before I touch a Wix again, even if it was just a one off.
You could probably use two 12v atv or lawnmower batteries sided by side in that battery box to get to your 12v ... run them in series obviously ..
to answer your question as to why you had to hold the start button for an extended period of time is because of the lower voltage. you did not have enough voltage to hold in the run contact. running at 240 vac 3 ph will naturaly give you the voltage to hold in the contact.
Nice genny, I need to get a deal like that 🤙
Turn the speed up to its highest. That’s why you had to hold the run button down longer. hSelect the highest current select. Most electric motors are designed to work with 208/230vac so you should be fine. In hvac we would wire the control transformer for 208 or 240. Running 208 on a transformer set for 240 will weaken contactors.
That has A 32-volt difference is from 240-volts minus - 32-volts =208-volts three phase set-up. Basically you need 32-volt input from A secondary plugged in generator.,or off of switched DC current over to AC current power to add.,or make up for loss voltage required to run 240-volts power output source.
After high-pressure cleaning, the unit looks like new again.
Great video,never seen one of these,minor problems,minor tweaking,I believe you will have a nice addition to your collection,once you get it the way you want it.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Just FYI.. the pro-tec oil filter is also produced by wix.. I know you prefer tht brand so...
I started a Volvo car with a VW 100hp diesel engine, and the fuel was 5 years old, and the car actually started. It was low in cetane, so it had yellow smoke when it was running, but it did run okay.
The main threads I come across in europe are
BSPP 55° round threads, in inches (but not the diameter of the threads, you have to look that up!)
BSPT 55° round threads, which is the same as BSPP but tapered
NPT 60° flat threads, tapered, with a different thread pitch than BSP! eg. BSP 3/8" has 19 TPI and NPT has 18 TPI
(Diameter also not equal to name)
And metric 60° flat threads, here the diameter matches Name. Eg M14 has 14mm diameter.
did you get that from a guy in pekin il? somehow it showed up on my market place in west palm beach flordia lol, and he said he was coming down here in a week and might be able to bring it.. never heard back from him.. was even on a pallet like that.. pretty cool!.
you need to get the cycles up to 61-63 for it to start that band saw without holding the switch so long.. just needs a manual throttle cable thats missing to fine tune the rpms to up the hertz.
as for the battery issue, cut the frame for the battery tray and modify it to use two 90s honda civic 12v batteries.. needs to have them to properly regulate the voltage or you will damage the charging system and overheat the regulator
look for the 60 cycle AC , the governor speed must be controlled
There is another thing to consider 208 is a wye connection on a transformer. Look up connections for transformers and see what the generator has It could be wye, delta, or combination of the two. It might be even possible to add a capacitor bank to the generator that you could switch on or off depending on what equipment you want to test it on. Checking the transformer type against the equipment is important to get as close to the voltage ratings as possible. If numbers don't match up performance will suffer. The name plate on the equipment you are trying out should be closely matched with the output of the generator. That means volts, amps, ohms, and any other resistances. If you do put in a capacitor bank you could switch the bank on or off based on need or requirements your equipment you try out is in need of.
If you need 240 volts you can get a 208/240 step up transformor
If I wanted to boost the genset from 208 to 240v I would use 3 x 35v 240v 5a transformers which would give about 30v output with 208v on the primary, one for each phase. You would wire each transformer primary across a 208v phase output but wire the 35v secondaries each in series with its phase to boost 208 to ~240v. The transformers only need to be rated for the load current at 35v say 200w and not 3kw !
The auxilary fuel pump is probably 12 Volt, so there there is a resistant put in series with the pump to operate it under 24 Volts. You had to hold the startbutton for the saw you connected, that's because the voltage will drop (sack) for a few seconds (because of the starting current is higher than the generator can deliver) and then is regulated correctly again. Nice generator by the way. Maybe handy to put the same type auxilary battery connector on your truck( in case it's a;so 24 Volt) and use a jumper-cable.
Is this the Electroboom channel? 😂😂
WIX makes protec filters.
FREQUENCY...CHECK THE FREQUENCY.....Also the auxiliary fuel pump is for use when there is a another tank to supply then fuel.
use the stuff they use on electric storage radiator heaters its rated for high temp wiring
When you press the start button power goes through it to the motor contactor coil, then when you let go power goes through the contactor maintain contact and the stop button to the coil and the contactor stays in, I suspect the contactor maintain contact or the stop buttons contact reisitance is a little on the high side, so when the motor is spooling up the voltage drop from the bad contacts and the voltage being pulled low by the motor there isnt enough juice to hold the contactor in.
Or whatever size you said In the standard pitch thread size. Onan generators are made in Germany and France they use metric sizes A lot on their stuff over there like other countries do to.
Wow, thats a different way of getting the same answer.
Wow I thought the generator was painted black lol never seen something that dirty and still get to work.
A NATO field plug is a charging solution that can be used with NATO ground tactical vehicles, which are equipped with a 24-volt DC port.
The thing at the low pressure fuel pump is a power resistor?
Pro tec is the same as wix!
Running your 240v 3phase motors on 208 will burn them up quickly. You can get by usually with a 10% voltage difference but you are way above the tolerance. Would not recommend it for that application.
. * * * * You may be able to adapt that gen to produce 24 3phase , call ONan
They all require preheating when cold
"Really Good" and "Fram" are an oxymoron. :-)
I would like to know what you have against FRAM filters,they seem to work just fine here in Europe.or is it that you are not used to see them that often and are just sceptical of other brands than you normally use?
Good stuff
looks like diesel, smells like dieses, tastes like ...........😄
You are force loading your saw motor will ground short ,be careful. Generator voltage regulator is also not going to take that for along time. 22 mm and 13/16 inches one metric one USA, generator has a British engine so it's metric.That electric fuel pump setup is when they hook up with a fuel trailer.
I haje a bad voltage regulator and it wont give ma any excitation current to provide any voltage output above 17VAC I do have the pdf file for all series of this genny. It came in 24vdc output as well
Yet we need to refit those spare power generators we have which use the batteries externally even since the 80’s but now also need to hook up with solar and wind arrays fir starters and soon combine with eventual fusion energy+ hydrogen or alcohol alternative to petrol and even biofuel like corn based ethanol etc
🔥🔥🤘🤘
In the NATO supply chain diesel is tainted yellow . US Military stuff, yellow diesel . . .
I think yellow is old jp grade fuel sounded fine not a lot of smoke most jp when out of grade seams fluffy /algae ifed be safe
I have been in construction and all kinds of mining .I don
You stole that generator, lol. You will normally pay several times that much for one that is half as powerful. That is amazing. You definitely have room to invest a little money into it. That generator would bring good money if you ever decide to sell it.
I can't understand why a three phase gen would only have top voltage of 208 no 240 or 380 which is our standard 3 phase here in South Africa and normal single phase 240 V.
Just for curiosity sake, I looked up Pro Tec filters, and they are made by Wix. So save that filter number. Good deal on that generator.
1. If you aren't going to replace the wiring, I would coat them with liquid rubber or Flex-Seal.
2. If you're going to use that beast at home, I would build a soundproof shelter so you don't piss off your neighbors! LOL!
By the way, WHERE'S OLD RED?!?!?!?
The slave receptacle is indeed for 24v connection. It is also used on most nato vehicles to add a quick and easy way to jumpstart them. Most 24v vehicles have an external "pig nose" connector like that for jumpstarting etc.
That is the old Nato 2 wire instead of the new single plug connection that is used in the modern nato equipment
@@farmingsmallkubota1783 I stand corrected thank you. I guess it shows that it's been a little while since I left the green uniform behind 🙂
With minimal modifications to the battery tray, you can fit a pair of lawn mower batteries in series. $70 in batteries instead of $500.
Was thinking the same thing.
"The smart thing to do would be not to do that again. But, we're going to do that again." And again, and again. But you made it work. Yet another awesome recovery.
"the guy I bought it from said since he couldn't get it running, then I NEVER would!" That made me smile! So, thanks for that. I do enjoy watching you go through the motions of making this thing run. Good job!
Don't forget to replace the spare fuse. Ironically, you could charge the battery that got it started (if and after you get another battery.)
You need to download the manuals for your generator.
I'm with you 100% on keeping your stuff clean,it pays in the end.if you don't treat your mules right,they'll let you down.
There's a few things on that that match the generator we have on our bucket truck at work. Here's my take on a few of them:
1. The coating on the wires isn't cloth. It's asbestos. I would recommend wrapping them with foil cord wrapping. That's what we did.
2. The slave plug is to run generators in series. They link together to provide more wattage, but also they link together to start each other with 1 battery.
3. you need to set your voltage gain when it's under load. that controls the Hz, and we use 60Hz here in the US. But you can run 3 phase on 70Hz, that's why you were able to run a 240V with 208V.
4. The idle speed switch is missing, but that's not actually needed when the unit is a slave. The idle is controlled by the master. You might want to locate one of those so it will idle down when not under load.
5. You might want to have a tech take a look at it and check the sine wave. If the sine wave is off you take the risk of burning up some electronics...learned that the hard way. RIP brand new LED shop light.
6. When you're looking for parts, check Cummins first. Onon is owned by Cummins so they might have parts. I suggest calling the Cummins in Indianapolis. They're the best around, and really great guys. They'll be able to help you out.
If you want to loom up those wires, use fiberglass, do not use a metal braid, as the braid itself will wear against the wires as the generator runs and vibrates and will cause a massive short.
I have a 4 cylinder version of this from 1986, It's by far the heaviest duty most reliable generator I've ever owned. It ran our entire house and a cord to the neighbor's from Sunday to Sunday around the clock last hurricane season.
We had several of these in my shop while in the service. Usually used them if we needed power in a tight spot where we couldn't get a larger generator in or if we went out into the field which we often did. Works great and I wish I had one.
Onan generator parts are available from Cummins, the owning corporation. Probably also pick up a manual... Cheers, man.
New workshop looks awesome - no doubt you'll have her running! If it aint seized you got a good chance!
“Take care of your tools and they’ll take care of you back” immediately following using a razor knife to cut wires..!!! I kid I kid
Great video