Lighting & Photographing A Residential Interior
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- A video showing how to light & photograph a residential interior using a DSLR camera. Descriptive screen shots show how to composite in Photoshop, ending up with the final image.
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I don't understand why he is masking the left side of the picture after stitching and then paints it all back in?!
Phenomenal tutorial. Please let me know if you are going to post more videos, or need a protege/assistant.
Great tutorial!
Please, answer this question.
How do you align the layers as you bring them into photoshop?
Thank you!
Keep up the good work.
P.S.
Do you work in raw? I didi the same but once I had all layers in photoshop my file was over 2 gb's and my computer could handle it.
I worked with a D600 at 24 mpx each take! What do you suggest I do?
Without doubt one of the best tutorials on interior lighting, and post production techniques... more please.
It was fun to do! Glad you got something out of it!
When creating a layer mask, just hold down alt or option while making one to create black mask. Quicker and easier.
Good stuff. Can't understand why you wouldn't stitch first. Seems like it would cause less headaches in terms of matching additional lighting.
Yep
Really great tutorial! Love it! Thanks.
Quality over quantity, thanks Roger.
my god what a drawn out process. Imagine doing that for all your photo's on the shoot. your time for money just goes out the door
Depending on the purpose of the image, for example, a shot for an advertiser (rather than a real estate agent), there may be a very short shot list. What would matter would be not the number of shots, but the quality. In this case, it's not unusual for a great deal of effort to go into a single finished image. And the price of that image can often be measure in the many hundreds or even thousands. So, it's long, but it's relative to the VALUE of the shot. But you're right in the sense that you wouldn't do that all that if you were getting a much lower shot rate.
Thank you! I want to try it now!
Well done video...Finally someone took sometime to do one well :)
Awesome sir thank you 👍
very impressive work, well documented too TFS!!
Wow, I've learned more in this 13 minutes video than most other training sessions I have taken. Thank you Mr Brooks
it looks like a 3d house made in a specific software, not real:(
Why fill the opassity layer with black and pain most the picture with whit to show the left image...... start by filling the oppassity layer with white showing the left image, and ajust the stiching by painting with black...... you only have to ajust the overlapping areas,- not the whole left image.... faster and more logical.
What a great tutorial! Very detailed! Thank you!
Awesome tips sir, Thank you!
Better than Ambien. Thanks Roger.
OK for the various lighting areas via masks, but while stiching: why cover the top picture to reveal it afterwards? What did I miss? Thank you for your answer.
when you start adding lights.. do you change any exposure settings? I would think they would stay the same as for the same base ambient light shot, correct or not?
Amazing !! thank you for the tutorial!!!
Hi Roger, is the second shot taken by shifting? That doesn't look like a pano head so how did you avoid parallax issues with the second shot?
Brilliant work! I have used PhotoMerge in PS with somewhat mixed results. This method, though more involved, seems to work better or at least more predictably. The key of course is to keep the camera perfectly level for both images. I use a 3 axis spirit level that slides into my hotshoe.
I think that it would pretty much have to be that way. The exposure settings would need to be consistent across all layers.
difference mode while lining up the images works better. otherwise great tutorial!!!
***** Absolutely; the Difference Mode is a phenomenal alignment tool, the slightest pixel askew stands out in bold relief and once all turns to black you have it nailed.
229 subscribed (including me)! only one video? c'mon man, your video good, but people, who subscribed waiting for more!
That is my question as well. I don't see any benefit in brushing in the left side since there's no content underneath that layer. Seems utterly pointless!
Good video, great tips, but you should drink a Redbull or something. You sound like you're about to fall asleep.
How have you done the Flash lighting? Take a flash picture with the lens shifted to the left and then shift the lens to the right and take another picture while keeping the flash in the same position?
Strobe was used in the areas where the tungsten wouldn't register using the base exposure.
Yep, very good tutorial - thanks Roger. All I need now is a Cube House to photograph!
Will you shoot in 100 ISO or will you go higher ISO...I find some spot light always get spread out...
I am guessing he shifted his lens and left everything else at the exact position.
Yes he camera had changed it position and author mad tripod stayed in place
I'm not clear on how you took the two separate images and created the exact same perspective so that they could easily be stitched together?
he used a tilt shift lens; he positioned the camera in such a way that only 2 lateral shift are required; he took more than 2 photos
What I did, was set the lens up at the mid-point of the area that I wanted to photograph. Then I shifted the lens to the far left of its range and then to the far right of its range to make sure that I could cover the whole areas, and that there was enough overlap to brush in the edges or feather blend in post-production.
You mentioned s 17mm would cause a lot more distortion. Is this also the case with a 17MM tilt shift lens? Im interested in buying a tilt shift for my interiors work and was considering a 17mm as I also work in very tight spaces onboard yachts.
Using a shift lens horizontally and shooting two separate images has been done for a very long time, even back in the film days, but back then you had to perform dodging and burning to blend the two during the printing process.
Today, Photoshop does it much better, quicker, and easier, and you don't need a skilled lab technician to do it.
Another trick using side shift was how large format photographers could seemingly take a photo of a large wall mirror from directly in front, without being in the shot. You set the camera up slightly to one side of the mirror, then shift the lens sideways to bring the centre of the mirror back into view. The same trick can be done with a shift lens, you just don't have as much movement to play with.
The exposure on the pillow of the sofa bothers me way more than it should. You should try and make it more soft, more believable.
When I tried this method and it seems that things don't always line up perfectly. So you can end up with an uneven edge from time to time. When you overlap the two images and use a brush to feather in the area where the two halves meet, you can make it look much better.
I think if you try it out for yourself you will see what the benefit is.
I saw this video a few months ago and just had an opportunity to try it out. There are some details missing from the video, but you can figure them out as you experiment with the lens and the technique. There's enough info here in the video to guide you to a good final result. So thank you to Roger Brooks for sharing this different approach for the photography of interiors.
One of the best "over view'" explanations I have seen of shoot and post production . It would be nice to see more on how the lighting is accomplished however, as this is critical to getting the proper exposure and result.
Nice and easy to understanding.. thx
You can change the blending mode to difference of the top layer. It will accurately align the top layer over the bottom layer easily.
I found myself asking questions during the video only to have you answer them a moment later. Brilliant work.
hello
Thank you so much. Great video
Guestion, are you using just one light…
name and type…thank you
When is the next video
He used the horizontal displacement of the shift lens....And the camera position is not moved.
Thank you very much. Very interesting!!! Always great to see how someone else does it!!!
Great tip. thank you very much.
Thanks Sir .very useful for me
Great video! Can you explain more about the horizontal movement of the tilt-shift lens?
thank you Roger, very interesting and informative.
Great tutorial. similar to Michael Kelley's technique but with the 2 pictures to stitch, I guess it made it a bit harder to light the area in the middle twice! I'm not sure if I can use the shifting mechanism to straighten the vertical lines (so shifting up) and also to do a pano (shifting left to right) at the same time
+fkrtna Michael Kelly's technique? Are kidding? He was the last to do this. But kuddos to him he made it look like he was the innovator as you bought it.
I'd be terrible at this. I despise HDR photography. I'd have to drag around a dozen strobes to do this :p
that's not hdr
Not HDR.
Most useful, thanks.
good tutorial,
straight to the point,
thank you!
The best tutorial in youtube....and very good narration....
tilt shift lens
Awesome!!
Great!
Praise indeed! Thanks for the positive feedback!
That was an awesome tut. Hope to see more!!!
Excellent video, let's see more!
Thank you . Best video by far.
Very good tutorial, Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback!
VERY well done!
Awesome!
I loathe the idea of such forged photography
+Thomas McCaul
?? Loath is a strong hateful word, There is room for many styles especial within commercial applications as well as fine art.
that's not forged at all; as any field of photography composition and light is the most important thing; he was not happy with the available light , so he improved it using a real strobe and taking multiple photos; it would have been forged if only one exposure should have been used, and than artificially adding light in photoshop; he did completely different
here I am again and am being hired for a similar job. Well, can't say no to money so..eating my words a year later