Well, I personally prefer to apply washes after oil dots, because sometimes when you blend dots oil paint might cover washes. Quite difficult to clean it up from all gaps and etc. And the funny thing - despite of the lacquer (surface) type, I wait for about 10-15 minutes for thinner to evaporate, and then goes another layer of effects. What's the secret? Apply varnish :D Surprisingly, it doesn't affect previous layer of oil or enamel if the varnish is acrylic. Well at least it works for me))
I have to say, as a long, long time miniature-wargamer/painter who's recently started applying modelling techniques to my painting (oils, enamels, filters etc.) your channel is fast becoming my favourote source for inspiration and tips! Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video!
All of your videos are the BEST. Well videoed, lighted, explained, etc. Thank you soooooo much. I am in very poor health and modeling helps me relax. I am building models to pass on as part of the art that I do.
Friiiiiiiday... and with a new exciting Night Shift video.... Best day of the week of course 😍😍😍. Thank you so much for this very inspiring tutorial. You are my hero !!!
I recently discovered your channel and can't get enough of your videos! So many interesting techniques. Are you going to setup a Patreon account? I'd definitely support!
Well, that has to be the first time I have actually seen anyone do the dot technique that I could actually understand, and follow. So, I suppose I need to dig out the oils, and see if I can actually duplicate the results.... although I will be working on a hulk at first. This definitely is a great channel, and I am learning a lot.... definitely love the weld seams and texture. Thank you for sharing...
Martin, my dude, every single technique you do is astounding! I also really appreciate that you explain every step. I now know why my dot fading has never worked well (I flood the surface with thinner) =P
Andrew Schnack thank you for pointing that out, man i had the same problem but don't abandon the technique when you apply too much thinner with the oil dots it makes for great streaks and similar effects i love the filter washes but the dot filter technique is more direct
I do not know if someone has already said it sir, but its channel has become one of the best (If not, the best) modeling channels here in you tube. And I assure you that I do not like to praise in a simplistic way. Congratulations! I wish to reach soon the 300 thousand subscribers or more, which is the number of subscribers that has another fantastic modeling channel here.
Wow looks like from the photo. Great video as always. My friend started to watch your videos too. Btw my broken Fw-190 canopy glass is back in game! I contacted eduard support if they could send me another clear pieces. They said yes and they sent them. Now I can continue :D yay. If is anybody reading this from eduard I have to say THANK YOU to you!
Love your Channel man! Your voice and accent are perfekt and easy to the ear' you should dö podcasts 😁 Your toutorials are exelent and you tecniqes amacing. Thank you for a wonderfully proffesional channel.
Once again awesome video. I just got the remaining oil colours and can’t wait to start blending. I’m glad I have seen this because I would have done them one at at time...
Martin. Thanks buddy, bloody clever. Although I was with both aircraft and armour I am getting back into modelling aircraft after a few decades and your techniques and skills are inspired chap. Don't worry about the English. My Russian sucks and most of us can't speak English properly either😁
OMG... thank you, thank you so much, there is so many video, guide talk about using oil dot paint.... but i never found anyone talk about how each color will influence or change the tone of base coat
Brother, this is exactly why I think your next project should be a fantasy model - a robot of some kind (I think W.H.40K or Robotech) - it's because people who build, compete and judge these things need to see YOUR take on interpreting things like maintenance and environmental effects, how and what to add to a model, not to mention WHEN to leave the instruction's script in favor of your own, and especially, how to get the most realistic effects by not limiting yourself to just acrylics and a sharpie. (Whenever I see a kid on UA-cam color something in with a red sharpie, one of my sea monkies climbs out of his included underwater environment and throws itself into the 'money' candle I vigilantly keep burning next to the roller coaster section of the 9 piece ocean zoo. We have to stop the madness!) So you see, it's not just for me, it's for the monkies.
When it comes to varnish, I paint the base coat and camo, then gloss to apply water markings so they don't silver and to make pin washing faster, and then apply a matt coat to eliminate the gloss.
Thanks for the tutorial :) i am in the procces of washing Tamiya tiger I early, and while there is not much to wash on lower deck, the wheels are quite time consuming (overall 36 wheels :).
Great video as usual! I only discovered your channel recently, but I've been watching a lot of your videos as the techniques you use are really good and I want to try them out for warhammer vehicles and possibly infantry.
So apparently I will have to stop my King Tiger build (I am at chipping right now) and wait for your videos. They are so informative and right now I can see I fucked up a little with oils. Anyways keep up the good work!
Martin. Really detailed and well done, excellent .thank you Please do a Soviet KV2 or JSU 152, or ISU 2 Rough Soviet armor , really enjoyed your video !!
Martin, as many others have said, I think your videos are excellent and so helpful. I have a question for you. It looks like you sometimes apply acrylic paint techniques over oil washes and filters. Have you ever found this to be a problem? Do you use clear coats between the layers? I feel like I remember way back hearing that you can't put acrylics over oils. Thanks again for your wonderful videos
Hello! Happy New Year to you!!! Thank you for all this amazing content 🙂 Please, as we are using enamel thinner, is it possible to use enamel paints (e.g. Humbrol) instead of oil paints? Thank you very much
Exciting!!! Like fine wine - getting better with age. Thanks for answering on your forum - much appreciated. If you were doing a three tone German camo late war what paint would you mix in to distress the base colour of Late War German Yellow - I'm using Mission Paints (similar to Tamiya's dark yellow...sort of). And for Red camo? Green camo? Would you distress an open fighting compartment like a Hummel or Nashorn? I'm thinking not however might be an interesting look. Thanks, Tim
That's a pretty interesting question. As for fighting compartments, I would probably add lots of distressing to the lower parts like the floors and lower half of the walls and keep it more "cleaner" towards the top. For distressing German yellow I'd just add white or light grey. Green and brown, hmm... adding German yellow could work, it would make them look more faded and would also work as a textured filter - it would slightly merge those 3 paints together.
Its so upsetting because i really want more videos from you as their so enjoyable to watch, however as a fellow modellor i know you cant rush these things😣😂
Hi, I painted a model with Vallejo spray paint. I’m using oil paint and mineral spirits for this and realized the spirits is also stripping the base coat. Haha... is this the reason for a clear coat??!! I thought Vallejo spray paint was an acrylic?
hey Night Shift! Really cool material as always! But I do have a question. Could you please tell me if is it possible that after base colour, when I protected it by leyer of Vallejo gloss varnish and painted it enamel washes tneh they did not dry in 24 hours?
Man everytime I see one of your videos it makes me want to get back to modelling! I really want to try those techniques on miniatures, especially the oil blending, the textures are really awesome! But something's always bothering me, they say to never put acrylic over oils, but I saw in some of your videos that you go back to acrylics for details after using oil washes and blending, without a varnish. Is it because the amount of oil paint you use is so low that it doesn't create problems? Or is it an overblown problem? Anyways, thanks for the videos, really enjoying them!
I guess it's like you said, their amount is very small. Might be also a bit overblown issue. Modellers have been doing it like this since I can remember (aka roughly since 2005) and there were never any issues reported in the modelling community. And hey, thanks a lot! I hope you'll give it a try and return to this hobby!
Great video as always. I just did a pin wash on a model that was coated in Vallejo satin varnish and I get tide marks... I don't see that happening in this video and you mention you used a semi gloss coat. What could be my problem? Thanx in advance.
That's very interesting. I often had tide marks on matt surfaces, but never on a glossy or satin one. I honestly can't say what went wrong, but you can eliminate most of them by gently tapping the entire model with a large brush and small amount of thinner. Give the washes enough time to dry so you don't remove them. And also, there are many weathering techniques that can hide any remaining tide marks, like rust tones, dust, etc
@@NightShiftScaleModelsThank for the advice... I also noticed that my base coat.... Done using Tamiya Olive Green... Was a bit rough and sandy... Something I have noticed before on my models. I'm now thinking that was the initial issue and that the varnish was not sufficient to form a nice coat and take away the rough edges... I'll try some different combinations on plastic spoons to test...you also use Tamiya with lacquer Thinner... I'm going to give that a try to. Thanx and ill be looking forward to you next video 😀
Nice techniques sir👍I'd like to do the oil dots blending technique on my gray painted tank, any advice for what colours of oil paint would look good for the dots blending on a gray tank?
Wow this was nearly a year ago, Do you Thin the oils down at all? They look quite thin when you apply the dots to the model, do you allow them to dry on the model before you start to blend them?
Tvoje videa jsou top, nedivim se ze rostes tak rychle ( tim myslim tvuj kanal. Kanal na youtubu) Spravny fun / serious business ratio. Po 20 letech si chci zkusit nejakej tancik, tak jsem sjel vsechna tvoje videa a je to parada. Odkud jsi, CR nebo SK, z prizvuku asi SK ?
Hey, night. What oil colours would you generally use for olive drab base colours? I plan to do a Pershing (m26 by Tamiya). I avoided doing the filters on my Sherman as i didn't want to mess it up because i did a good preshading with it (i was experimenting)
Hello night shift I am quite new to this I am right now 3d printing a LT 35, i want to make it look nice It has to be sandet a lot, What is the most important thing you recommend me to buy. Greetings my friend Btw. Can you link everything you use in the vids, would be quite usefull Edit: Thanks a lot btw. (How rude of me)
eternalASV120 well then I am actually using sandpaper to get rid of the lines (the lines are almost not visible) Now i have the good ol ender 3 It is a FDM 3d printer If you want it for printing models buy a SLA or SLS (if you have enough money) I bought my printer in mind if printing for customers and for my electronics projects I loved these small things when i was young, so i thought why not get into this hobby
@@NightShiftScaleModels thats cool because the LT35 had bolts (these bolts are on the actuall model that i printed) If you see a nice modell on thingiverse and you want it printed you can ask me
Well, they make specific tones we, armor modellers use, i.e. rust, mud, dust etc. When I was using regular oils I always had to mix them to get those tones and it was often tricky. These modelling oils also contain less linseed oil so they're not as messy and are easier to work with.
Did you notice something weird?
I usually apply washes first, then add oil dots. OOPS!
JK, it doesn't really matter.
good to know , i got myself a chi-nu and will use your tips and tricks!
cant be breaking the rules lol
Well, I personally prefer to apply washes after oil dots, because sometimes when you blend dots oil paint might cover washes. Quite difficult to clean it up from all gaps and etc. And the funny thing - despite of the lacquer (surface) type, I wait for about 10-15 minutes for thinner to evaporate, and then goes another layer of effects. What's the secret? Apply varnish :D Surprisingly, it doesn't affect previous layer of oil or enamel if the varnish is acrylic. Well at least it works for me))
že ty hravaš wotko?
urob TOG II
new video from martin, best day of the week :D
Easily one of the coolest modeling channels in 2019 😍
You had me at "living bananas".
Great tutorial as always.
I have to say, as a long, long time miniature-wargamer/painter who's recently started applying modelling techniques to my painting (oils, enamels, filters etc.) your channel is fast becoming my favourote source for inspiration and tips!
Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video!
All of your videos are the BEST. Well videoed, lighted, explained, etc. Thank you soooooo much. I am in very poor health and modeling helps me relax. I am building models to pass on as part of the art that I do.
Your advice is super helpful! I’m glad smaller channels such as yours in no way lack quality of content. Really cool vid
Friiiiiiiday... and with a new exciting Night Shift video.... Best day of the week of course 😍😍😍. Thank you so much for this very inspiring tutorial. You are my hero !!!
I recently discovered your channel and can't get enough of your videos! So many interesting techniques. Are you going to setup a Patreon account? I'd definitely support!
Thanks a lot! I'm thinking about it, but I don't yet have a clear idea about tiers and rewards :)
Another great one Martin.....cant wait for your next one, you have committed now ;-)
Watching the pin wash getting around the small details.... ASMR part of every paintjob!
Keep rockin' it! 🖖
Well, that has to be the first time I have actually seen anyone do the dot technique that I could actually understand, and follow. So, I suppose I need to dig out the oils, and see if I can actually duplicate the results.... although I will be working on a hulk at first.
This definitely is a great channel, and I am learning a lot.... definitely love the weld seams and texture.
Thank you for sharing...
Martin, my dude, every single technique you do is astounding! I also really appreciate that you explain every step. I now know why my dot fading has never worked well (I flood the surface with thinner) =P
Andrew Schnack thank you for pointing that out, man i had the same problem but don't abandon the technique when you apply too much thinner with the oil dots it makes for great streaks and similar effects i love the filter washes but the dot filter technique is more direct
I do not know if someone has already said it sir, but its channel has become one of the best (If not, the best) modeling channels here in you tube. And I assure you that I do not like to praise in a simplistic way. Congratulations! I wish to reach soon the 300 thousand subscribers or more, which is the number of subscribers that has another fantastic modeling channel here.
Thanks a LOT!!!
Always nice to see another night shift video and that sexy Eastern European accent. Informative and fun/ny
Well...the bloopers remind me of being in school and doing a presentation in front of the class.
And to think I used to hate night shift, not anymore lol.....Great video.
Thank you for this very helpful and informative video. Great sense of humor too! Wish you were part of our model club. Cheers!
It is really enjoyable to view your videos. And adding your sense of humour, HAH! Boooom ;)
Absolutely fantastic! simply the best channel from youtube!
Wow looks like from the photo. Great video as always. My friend started to watch your videos too. Btw my broken Fw-190 canopy glass is back in game! I contacted eduard support if they could send me another clear pieces. They said yes and they sent them. Now I can continue :D yay. If is anybody reading this from eduard I have to say THANK YOU to you!
That's great news! Awesome!
Love your videos Night Shift! I learn more from your videos than any other or magazines for that matter.
Your channel is so entertaining!! Even if you're not a modeler!
From Polka Party Tank to Weathered Warmachine by Martin Kovac
You, good sir are in need of some of the fabled (liquid) green stuff. That stuff is fabulous to use.
"Just sit back, grab your bottle of enamel thinner and enjoy!"
That came out waaaaay too wrong! XD
Love your Channel man!
Your voice and accent are perfekt and easy to the ear' you should dö podcasts 😁
Your toutorials are exelent and you tecniqes amacing.
Thank you for a wonderfully proffesional channel.
Once again awesome video. I just got the remaining oil colours and can’t wait to start blending. I’m glad I have seen this because I would have done them one at at time...
That's also a way of doing it and there's nothing wrong about it! But hey, this way it seems a bit more fun and time efficient
Nice Martin. It's looking good so far.
Thanks Scott. Great job with that new video of yours.
Night Shift thanks so much bud!!
Martin. Thanks buddy, bloody clever. Although I was with both aircraft and armour I am getting back into modelling aircraft after a few decades and your techniques and skills are inspired chap. Don't worry about the English. My Russian sucks and most of us can't speak English properly either😁
I can't wait to see the wheels video
OMG... thank you, thank you so much, there is so many video, guide talk about using oil dot paint.... but i never found anyone talk about how each color will influence or change the tone of base coat
Awesome video as always. Learned a lot!
This channel is going to be huge
our-pour =) I just can't stop enjoying these bloopers =)
Again a very good video! Btw, i grabbed a beer instead of some thinner. Tastes better i think 😋.
Brother, this is exactly why I think your next project should be a fantasy model - a robot of some kind (I think W.H.40K or Robotech) - it's because people who build, compete and judge these things need to see YOUR take on interpreting things like maintenance and environmental effects, how and what to add to a model, not to mention WHEN to leave the instruction's script in favor of your own, and especially, how to get the most realistic effects by not limiting yourself to just acrylics and a sharpie. (Whenever I see a kid on UA-cam color something in with a red sharpie, one of my sea monkies climbs out of his included underwater environment and throws itself into the 'money' candle I vigilantly keep burning next to the roller coaster section of the 9 piece ocean zoo. We have to stop the madness!) So you see, it's not just for me, it's for the monkies.
Oh, well I guess I’ll have to do it then. For the monkies of course 🙉
I love it, helps a lot like allways
Excellent tutorial! Always make me laugh 🤣
Awesome video brother keep up the hard work you are the best on UA-cam on the planet
Martin, thanks for new model fun video!
Just found your channel these are some of the best models i have seen. Too bad im an aircraft guy but you make me want to try tanks now
Your tanks always look so good! Great videos too ( the only videos I dont skip lol)
Amazing humour ...and of course nice paint technique....🚿😎...... regards Fred
Great vid Martin, that's some fast brushstrokes 🙃
Keep them coming 👍🏻
gold hand !! Amazing !
Brilliant video as usual Martin.
What a timing! I just got my first oil colours and was looking for a tutorial on them
What a great time to be alive!!!
When it comes to varnish, I paint the base coat and camo, then gloss to apply water markings so they don't silver and to make pin washing faster, and then apply a matt coat to eliminate the gloss.
Blended oil dots knock the glossy finish down significantly, so they eliminate the need to apply another coat of varnish.
Such a great video! Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. I am just trying to learn before trying on my first model and this is really helpful!
The plane man 🥺
"So sit back, grab your bottle of enamel thinner.." 😮
(12 seconds later)
Me: spit out enamel thinner 😝
got my glass of enamel thinner ..
CHEERS!!
Cheers!!
Thanks martin !!!!😃😃😃😃
Thank you 🙏🏻!
Again an awesome video! Thank you!
Top notch; learning (or shoudl that be re-learning?) a lot. Nice work so far; looking forward to next vid.
Thanks for the tutorial :) i am in the procces of washing Tamiya tiger I early, and while there is not much to wash on lower deck, the wheels are quite time consuming (overall 36 wheels :).
nice video Martin
Great video as usual! I only discovered your channel recently, but I've been watching a lot of your videos as the techniques you use are really good and I want to try them out for warhammer vehicles and possibly infantry.
Please please please add the other oil paint tip! Loving all these videos
Great video as usual, thanks a lot!
youre my hero 🥺🫡🫡🍻🍻🍻
thanks for this tutorial. id like to know if there is a rule of thumb of what colors of oil paint you need for a specific color or tone. thanks !
Imaš odlične tehnike i odlično ih objašnjavaš. Sub+like! :D
Thanks for another well done video :)
So apparently I will have to stop my King Tiger build (I am at chipping right now) and wait for your videos. They are so informative and right now I can see I fucked up a little with oils. Anyways keep up the good work!
Martin. Really detailed and well done, excellent .thank you
Please do a Soviet KV2 or JSU 152, or ISU 2
Rough Soviet armor , really enjoyed your video !!
Rough Soviet armor is my favorite! :)
Martin, as many others have said, I think your videos are excellent and so helpful. I have a question for you. It looks like you sometimes apply acrylic paint techniques over oil washes and filters. Have you ever found this to be a problem? Do you use clear coats between the layers? I feel like I remember way back hearing that you can't put acrylics over oils. Thanks again for your wonderful videos
Hello! Happy New Year to you!!! Thank you for all this amazing content 🙂 Please, as we are using enamel thinner, is it possible to use enamel paints (e.g. Humbrol) instead of oil paints? Thank you very much
OUR POWER aka NEXT VIDEO срочно!
this was really detailed :D
Yeah
Lovely 😊 videos! For German ‘Dark Yellow’ distressing technique, which Tamiya paints would you recommend?
Help, I am trapped in a wash applying/removin loop for 3 months now! D:
Exciting!!! Like fine wine - getting better with age. Thanks for answering on your forum - much appreciated. If you were doing a three tone German camo late war what paint would you mix in to distress the base colour of Late War German Yellow - I'm using Mission Paints (similar to Tamiya's dark yellow...sort of). And for Red camo? Green camo? Would you distress an open fighting compartment like a Hummel or Nashorn? I'm thinking not however might be an interesting look.
Thanks,
Tim
That's a pretty interesting question. As for fighting compartments, I would probably add lots of distressing to the lower parts like the floors and lower half of the walls and keep it more "cleaner" towards the top. For distressing German yellow I'd just add white or light grey. Green and brown, hmm... adding German yellow could work, it would make them look more faded and would also work as a textured filter - it would slightly merge those 3 paints together.
Thank you
Its so upsetting because i really want more videos from you as their so enjoyable to watch, however as a fellow modellor i know you cant rush these things😣😂
Bro you read my mind? I had some questions about blending oils. I was just about to do random stuff with them
Hi, I painted a model with Vallejo spray paint. I’m using oil paint and mineral spirits for this and realized the spirits is also stripping the base coat. Haha... is this the reason for a clear coat??!! I thought Vallejo spray paint was an acrylic?
hey Night Shift! Really cool material as always! But I do have a question. Could you please tell me if is it possible that after base colour, when I protected it by leyer of Vallejo gloss varnish and painted it enamel washes tneh they did not dry in 24 hours?
Not sure if I missed it but a direct before and after at the end of the video would be awesome just to see the effect in action
Thanks for the advice! I'll start doing that whenever possible!
Man everytime I see one of your videos it makes me want to get back to modelling! I really want to try those techniques on miniatures, especially the oil blending, the textures are really awesome! But something's always bothering me, they say to never put acrylic over oils, but I saw in some of your videos that you go back to acrylics for details after using oil washes and blending, without a varnish. Is it because the amount of oil paint you use is so low that it doesn't create problems? Or is it an overblown problem?
Anyways, thanks for the videos, really enjoying them!
I guess it's like you said, their amount is very small. Might be also a bit overblown issue. Modellers have been doing it like this since I can remember (aka roughly since 2005) and there were never any issues reported in the modelling community.
And hey, thanks a lot! I hope you'll give it a try and return to this hobby!
timestamp 4 : 15
"gently"
I'd love to try this technique but the Wilder weathering oils seem pretty hard to get a hold of- is there an easier to find alternative?
Sir, how do you clean the brush after using the texture effect process, the putty and cement residues? What and how to clean?
He told me in the comments that he uses cement so clean the brushes. Works surprisingly well.
@@krautreport202 Yep, this. I've just finished some Shermans up and used the same cement for the technique to clean the brush. Works great 👍
Great video as always.
I just did a pin wash on a model that was coated in Vallejo satin varnish and I get tide marks... I don't see that happening in this video and you mention you used a semi gloss coat. What could be my problem?
Thanx in advance.
That's very interesting. I often had tide marks on matt surfaces, but never on a glossy or satin one. I honestly can't say what went wrong, but you can eliminate most of them by gently tapping the entire model with a large brush and small amount of thinner. Give the washes enough time to dry so you don't remove them. And also, there are many weathering techniques that can hide any remaining tide marks, like rust tones, dust, etc
@@NightShiftScaleModelsThank for the advice... I also noticed that my base coat.... Done using Tamiya Olive Green... Was a bit rough and sandy... Something I have noticed before on my models.
I'm now thinking that was the initial issue and that the varnish was not sufficient to form a nice coat and take away the rough edges... I'll try some different combinations on plastic spoons to test...you also use Tamiya with lacquer Thinner... I'm going to give that a try to.
Thanx and ill be looking forward to you next video 😀
Nice techniques sir👍I'd like to do the oil dots blending technique on my gray painted tank, any advice for what colours of oil paint would look good for the dots blending on a gray tank?
In the past, I've had issues with tide marks left over from the washes. What can I do to help prevent those tide marks?
Where do I buy wilder oils because I can’t seem to find the website.
Wow this was nearly a year ago, Do you Thin the oils down at all? They look quite thin when you apply the dots to the model, do you allow them to dry on the model before you start to blend them?
For the oil dots, are you thinning the oil paint first before applying? If so, how thin?
Loving the channel btw!
another perfect video from God himself made my day
Tvoje videa jsou top, nedivim se ze rostes tak rychle ( tim myslim tvuj kanal. Kanal na youtubu) Spravny fun / serious business ratio. Po 20 letech si chci zkusit nejakej tancik, tak jsem sjel vsechna tvoje videa a je to parada. Odkud jsi, CR nebo SK, z prizvuku asi SK ?
Moc pekne ďakujem! Jo uhádol si, som Slovák :)
Hey, night. What oil colours would you generally use for olive drab base colours? I plan to do a Pershing (m26 by Tamiya). I avoided doing the filters on my Sherman as i didn't want to mess it up because i did a good preshading with it (i was experimenting)
nice!
I don't ever see anyone else use this dot technique.
How so? The results are pretty good, so why not?
@@NightShiftScaleModels I have no idea why no one else uses it; but as a new modeler, I intend to! It looks very easy compared to other techniques.
Cool job! Can you make Warsaw uprising panther in future?
Hmmm, maybe
@@NightShiftScaleModels will be cool and in this year is 75 anniversary of Warsaw uprising.
Hello night shift
I am quite new to this
I am right now 3d printing a LT 35, i want to make it look nice
It has to be sandet a lot,
What is the most important thing you recommend me to buy.
Greetings my friend
Btw. Can you link everything you use in the vids, would be quite usefull
Edit: Thanks a lot btw. (How rude of me)
Sounds like a cool project. What kind of printer are you using?
Guess the most important thing will be tons of putty to get rid of printer lines))
eternalASV120 well then
I am actually using sandpaper to get rid of the lines (the lines are almost not visible)
Now i have the good ol ender 3
It is a FDM 3d printer
If you want it for printing models buy a SLA or SLS (if you have enough money)
I bought my printer in mind if printing for customers and for my electronics projects
I loved these small things when i was young, so i thought why not get into this hobby
I don't have any experience with 3D printing, but from what I've seen on UA-cam, using spray primer/filler can eliminate most of those printer lines
@@NightShiftScaleModels thats cool because the LT35 had bolts (these bolts are on the actuall model that i printed)
If you see a nice modell on thingiverse and you want it printed you can ask me
From your point of view, is there any difference between Wilder or Abteilung brands in comparison with ordinary decent oil paints?
Well, they make specific tones we, armor modellers use, i.e. rust, mud, dust etc. When I was using regular oils I always had to mix them to get those tones and it was often tricky. These modelling oils also contain less linseed oil so they're not as messy and are easier to work with.