Diffraction Calculator
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Discover this groundbreaking tool, diffraction.cam, where you can select your camera, filter, and ƒ-stop to identify the optimal settings for avoiding diffraction and achieving razor-sharp images.
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Whew. Been using between f8 and f9 for my Nikon Z8 and f5.6 for my Panasonic G95 with the 590nm filter. Looks like I guessed correctly plus it reduces the risk of hot spots. 🙂
Just ran a check for my 830nm Sony A7 converted camera. I had run many test in the past and found that f/5.6 was the sweet spot. Exactly what your calculator shows. Thanks for doing this.
That is an excellent tool
Rob, thank you so much. I've been battling sharpness issues since I got into this field. I'm hoping this will answer some of questions.
Nice video.
@robshea I have been shooting in infrared now for about a month. (converted Canon RP 720nm) Your channel, your knowledge and advice have been immensely helpful to me getting up and running. The tools you have made available are extremely useful as well. As a way of saying thanks, I purchased a copy of Color Doesn't Exist. CHEERS!
Great work, thanks Rob ;-)
♥♥♥ Thank you!
thank u so much rob
Bonjour, votre livre est en anglais. Une édition en français ?
Merci encore pour toutes ses vidéos sur UA-cam.
Je suis un passionné de la photographie infrarouge que je pratique depuis 10 ans, mais j'en apprends encore avec vos vidéos merci.
Merci! Le livre n'est actuellement disponible qu'en anglais. Il est difficile de publier le livre dans d’autres langues en raison du coût de la traduction.
Rob, you are a real Oracle of knowledge in all things Infrared! In my very unscientific tests, I've noticed significant differences in real depth of field between lenses, when using the same aperture f-stop. For example the Sigma 35mm F1.4 (Art) has significantly LESS DoF than the 35mm F1.2 Art. The F1.2 also blows it out of the water in all other respects. Especially in IR. It's sharp corner to corner.
Anywho. I need to get your book. There's so much more to learn on this subject! :)
Thanks! I'm also curious about DOF testing. I suspect, based on your results, that the output could vary widely between lens models and not just focal length, which complicates testing.
@robshea I'd be more than happy to share my test images with you if it helps?
@@AddictedtoProjects I'd be curious to see them. You can send them here: 590.red/share
Thanks for sharing your images! I'll hang on to these for when I get around to DoF testing.
Many thanks for this very helpful video and calculator. Could you possibly add the Lumix G9 mk2 to the calculator? TIA
Added!
Thank you
Hello, great work! Could you add Sigma foveon cameras, such as Sd Quattro or Sd1 Merrill? Maybe they are a bit harder to calculate due to non-Bayer sensors, but very usable for IR. Thank You!
I've added these. However, I have not tested Sigma cameras to validate that a Diffraction Ratio of 3 is the right threshold. Sigma Foveon sensors use stacked color sensors and do not use the same demosaicing as Bayer or X-Trans sensors. If you have tested these cameras for diffraction, I'd love to see the test images.
is there an interaction with the lens quality that could be somehow calculated? Would better glass push the limits vs lower quality glass?
Lens quality can affect overall resolving sharpness, corner sharpness, depth of field, and hot spots, but it does not affect diffraction, which is purely a property of light. Diffraction is determined by lens aperture size, wavelength, and pixel size.
@@robshea thank you. Then are we forever limited in the depth of field and clarity in our infrared images? I'm guessing my camera's sweet spot at f/5.6 won't be ideal for landscapes? Should we do focus stacking to overcome this limitation?
@@ambientjapan4k I am primarily a landscape photographer and shoot most of my shots on APS-C cameras at f/5.6. I find the depth of field manageable with a single frame. To take advantage of hyperfocal distance, I usually focus on a point about 1/3 of the distance from the closest object and infinity. If you have a situation requiring great depth, such as a foreground element 2 meters away and a subject at infinity, you could focus stack to overcome this.
Add Canon 5DsR and the 5Ds please to the camera drop down.
Added!
@@robshea You're a rock star, Rob!
The add camera link does not work for me. I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100
Added!
@@robshea Thank you so much Rob!
Im using a modified sony rxo with a mft mount(590nm).i think my diffraction limit is f4 which is kinda low. i wonder how much f8 affects my image.
I've added the RX0 and RX0 II to the calculator. You should be fine at f/4. f/5.6 will start to introduce some diffraction at the longer end of the range. f/8 will likely result in noticeable diffraction. The softness might add some character to the image. If sharpness if key, then I would stick to f/4.
@@robsheaAwesome.Thanks for adding the rxo, i only shoot with a 590nm filter some i can manage shooting at 5.6
It's funny how manufacturers are cramming more and more pixels into the 35mm format sensor and how diffraction eats that right up, leaving fewer and fewer aperture values for images that actually make use of that sensor resolution. On my old 5DsR, f8 is already the maximum I use for maximum DoF and sharpness across the frame. On the new 60MP sensors, you're already down to f5.6, essentially forcing you to focus stack in visible light spectrum if you want to use the sensor resolution. This really is an argument for not getting any of the 60MP 35mm cameras and just go to the pseudo-medium-format sensor size.
Exactly, that has been one of the most telling outcomes of this exercise. I'll be sticking to medium format for high resolution, but looking for lower resolution sensors on full frame and APS-C cameras that I'm using for infrared.
Maybe I'll add a view that sorts cameras by pixel pitch for each sensor size...
@@robshea A view sorting cameras by pixel pitch for sensor size would be nice. On that note, maybe add a few more camera models: Leica SL2, SL3, Pentax 645Z and D, Fuji X100VI, Ricoh GRIII, GRIIIx.
The equation you're using here assumes a color filter array (Bayer, XTrans), right? How would the math change when considering both true monochrome cameras (no color filter array) and Foveon cameras (also no color filter array)? Would be interesting to see how that CFA impacts diffraction, e.g., looking at the Leica Monochrome cameras, the Pentax Monochrome DSLR just released and the Sigma SD1, sd Quattro, sd Quattro H and so on. I shoot the SD1 and sd Quattro side by side with the Canon 5DsR and even the SD1 with its nominal image dimension of just 15MP keeps up in detail resolution with the 5DsR in my opinion. It's quite insane actually.
@@thedarkslide Added the cameras you mentioned. I've tested Bayer and X-Trans sensors; both show no visible diffraction with a Diffraction Ratio of 3 or lower and clear diffraction above 4.5. I have yet to test Foveon or monochrome sensors; I hypothesize a Diffraction Ratio of 1 or lower would produce no visible diffraction for those sensors.
@@robshea I got two sd Quattro bodies. If you wanted to test the sd Quattro with its excellent 30mm f1.4 Art lens, we could figure something out and get that setup shipped to you as a loaner. You could turn it into an episode on UA-cam. Also, the sd Quattro has a removable IR Cut filter. So you can "convert" the camera into a full spectrum camera back and forth at will with the only tool required a toothpick or a chopstick. Let me know if you're interested to discuss this, I can reach out via email to you to arrange for that.
@@thedarkslide That is a most generous offer. It has been on my "buy" list for some time, and I would love the opportunity to test one. You can email me at yt@590.mozmail.com. Thanks!
Can you add the gh5s?
Added. Thanks!
ok wait...so I should use my FS Fuji X-H1 till 5.6, but my 18-135 is only good btw f10 and f13....if I use 5.6, on some focallength its the worst f-stop and for landscapes f5.6 is just not that cool... damn so I chose the absolute wrong Cam 😢
EDIT: using the IR Chrome Filter, thought to use it as a JPG Cam with Recipes and stuff, coming from Sony and the Overall Picture Quality and Corner Sharpness is just terrible 😂 taking Pictures since 2 weeks in every possible f-stop, trying to find the sweetspot but its like the worst Cam I ever had with Focussing...I mean Landscape Focussin come one - 10 Pictures with the same Focus Point and 5 out of 10 have different Focuses wtf 😂
The calculator has certainly been revealing. It might impact cameras that I use for IR in the future. For now, I'm happy to shoot most of my Fujifilm APS-C cameras at f/5.6. When I need more depth, I focus at the hyperfocal distance.
@@robshea I bought the 14mm and the XH-1 + IR Chrome because of your Video, loved your Shots, but when I use the 14mm or the 18-135, the Corners are unusable from f5.6 till f10, and after f10 its sharper but....blurry or sth...and the Overall Clarity is so off, clearly doing sth wrong but doing everything as you tought us^^ the X-H1 should be the exact same as your X-T2 and I'm really not Pixelpeeping, just lookin at a normal Picture it just hurts my Eyes :/ perhaps my X-H1 or both of my Lenses have some Issues 😣
@@stillsbyjann Feel free to send me a raw image. I can compare it to mine. 590.red/share
@@robshea that's too nice of you, uploaded some right now :) thanks!