Typo edit: Man, when he was backing his brother's car out of the bay it looked like he missed hitting the lift by millimeters. Good luck with the dyno, Nick!
There used to be people who could fix electric equipment. There was a circuit schematic attached to the panel of each piece, and the tech would track down the problem. Most times it was a 50 cent part.
I'm a die hard mopar guy, but that 51 Chev is gorgeous! They really knew how to design cars (appearance wise) back then. As always, love hearing Phil's machine scream. That's a nasty car. Good luck sorting out the dyno!
I agree with u nick about the carpet in cars and trucks...they just water and dirt and just rust out everything...I just love how they were made back then...better..
As someone that used to work on digital and analog CNC machines years ago we had similar problems with control circuit boards. On some of the older model machines we didn't have the luxury of getting new replacements either so one of the problems we found was silver migration causing micro tracks that were causing bridges between circuits that would cause erratic behaviour. We would send them out to an outside company that would wash the boards and remove the silver that had migrated from the solder. It might be worth looking into an industrial maintenance company that works on all types of equipment before pulling the trigger on an expensive upgrade.
Nick always has something good to say about every vehicle he works on. That's a true car guy in my opinion. That race Challenger runs like a scalded cat! I hope you get the Dyno repaired soon Nick. I know you miss your most important piece of equipment in your shop. It's like your signature on every engine you and your guys build.
I've watched and subscribed to Nick's channel since the beginning. You can sense the honesty, integrity and experience in the man; he's the real deal, a true car guys' car guy. Damn sad to see the dyno go on the fritz. How does the deal work with those, anyways? Are new ones only sold outright or are there payment and/or leasing options available from that company? Either way, Nick will figure it out. He always does with the tenacity he has.
moparedtn. No, to buy an upgrade dyno, you have to pay in full before delivery. Not only that, I have to pay in US dollars with exchange of 34%. Next, pay transport, pay for someone from SuperFlow to fly to Montreal, pay Hotel and car rental. And of coarse, I have to put my time in it to help for the installation. After all this, It will take a some time to recover this expense.
A trick I use when I put a valve cover gasket on a straight 6 I put Indian head gasket shellac on the gasket and place it on the valve cover it helps keep it in place
Maybe a gofund thing...... Idea. Alot money for a engine new dyno. It make you a lot happier with the dyno numbers and tune in. Wish u the best of luck.
COOL ! my dad bought a 51 chevy 2dr coupe new...drove it till about 62...his said it threw a rod and he sold it for 50 US..ha. Won some money in reno and bought a new Olds 394 holiday LOL.. I agree on the carpet ...I have a chevy pick up 1974 6cyl 3 on the floor STOCK no carpet...great truck... thanks for sharing .. good luck with the dyno what ever you do !
Nick: you might have to go with the new electronics package. Thank you for posting. My son told me about your UA-cam channel. I thought "yeah, sure." I found it on my own, then tried telling him about it. He busted me! You truly have a great garage, and a great UA-cam channel. Thank you for keeping those great old machines alive!! I ordered a couple Nick's Garage stickers; one for my son, and one for my garage refrigerator.
As always, good video! I used to put a smear of contact cement on the valve cover gasket to hold it in place in the valve cover... that worked well as long as it was clean. My old Dad used to always say the same thing about carpet in cars!
On the 51 valve cover gasket I use Indianhead Gasket Shellac. I learned from my grandfather who ran a top notch service station till 1980 that this is how it's done. He would put it on the valve cover and glue in the gasket so it couldn't move, then install it. You never saw any sealant, it always held and it's not to hard to remove.
I swear I could smell you guys spraying that carb cleaner from memory on that old Chevy from all the way down here in the U.S. in my bedroom watching this! lol! thanks again guys! great stuff! ▪☆☆☆▪
Never gave the carpet issue a second thought, but l agree...l drove a 1988 R model Mack with a rubber mat floor that had insulation underneath it - it was perfect
Sorry to hear about the Dynamometer being still down. I hate to hear that the only thing that the manufacturer can do is replace. I know that it would be nice to fix it but time is money. Sure if you had lots of time and someone who is knowledgeable in electronics it could be fixed with enough time. The problem is how long can you afford to be down. I say try the simple fixes like swap out the power supply, clean contacts, replace cables, re-seat the socketed ICs, and look for the obvious. If that does not work plan on spending the money and getting it up and making money again. You might get some money from selling the old unit for parts as well.
Sorry about your Dyno. I love the Mopar rides. First car was a 426 1968 Roadrunner 4 spd. Paid $300 bucks in 1976 for it. It was toast. Electrical, mechanical, body and paint damage. Dad rebuilt it for my 16th birthday. What a car to start out in. I somehow survived. Lol. PS. It made me a better driver.
Nick is totally right about car carpets. Why there has to be those, those collect snow and melt and therefore rusting. You're not walking home with shoes on so why putting carpets to the car? Nick and his team are like surgeons, opening the heart of the car and fix it ♥ Nick, I'm a electrician, and that dyno gives you wrong info, so I think the issue might be on the other stuff which are on the engine room, sensors or something. Mostly if something breaks up, it goes dead, but your dyno is still alive, and probably gets wrong info from broken sensor.
Don't forget, moisure can also be trapped behind rubber floor coverings - especially once they get a hole or tear in them. Best thing, most probably, would be a nice thick layer of paint (and sealer?) as a barrier between any floor covering and the metal of the vehicle.
I'm assuming that dyno doesn't have a good troubleshooting booklet. If you knew what the operating range was, you could ohm check the resistance of all the sensors and see if one of em is sending bad values
18 years was a good run for it. I'm sure some local electronics guy could fix it, if parts are available. I'd start by looking at the rpm "pickup" first and back-trace to the console with an oscilloscope. I'm not in Canada or I'd visit for fun. no youtube though ;)
Love that 51 things were more simple then. I’d rather work on those all day than what we have now!! Of course I love my nice cold meat locker air on while my Hemi is going up and down 75!!
man those chip to chip wiring systems are solid man, you probably will find the faults within the power supply or, bad caps or burnt resistors, things from 18 years ago is a lot easier to fix by yourself than todays electronics, with its small circuits and surface mount components. go and get a hold of a electronics repair man, and get a hold of a reputable one, and then get a hold of the schematics of this thing, so he can probe it out for faults and fix the probelms, if they are electronical.
What Pioneerz said but also check to be sure all the grounds are tight. It looks like the tachometer is hunting as if there is no zero reference or loose ground. Check on the dyno end first as that is where the majority of the vibrations are.
also, this circuit if you know what you look at looks rather simple and easy to troubleshoot, I think Nick would lose a treasure if he upgrades to a new system, as it will be a lot harder to user service and probably much more expensive to repair when fault occurs as I would imagine that a whole new replacement part will be used instead of troubleshooting the circuits, plus old electronics are built much more discrete and simpler thus making it more bulletproof to faults, and I think it's for these reasons that Nick has been able to use this daily for 18 years.
I was thinking about this broken dyno. One technique I used in diagnosing electronic assemblies (alarm systems and fire controls) was to look for a microchip that was either too hot or too cold, starting with the power supply. If you haven't given up the repair, you could test for a hot chip with a laser temperature gun, or even the back of a finger on each chip. If you can read and list the numbers on the chips, and list them, perhaps another viewer can suggest testing for those, and maybe replacements (I had to swap whole circuit boards). However, unless you get lucky, one might have to de-solder each component (or unplug each sub-assembly) to isolate the offening part. For the continuity testing, I use a terminal strip with a set of different value resistors at one end of the harness, one for each pair, and a familiar ohm-meter at the other end. For contact points, I operate each contact for consistant resistance, or swinging resistance. A big headache just thinking about it. So, how many shop hours do you need to bill to buy new equipment? Big ouch.
Wow, what a bummer, really sorry to hear about the dyno Nick. I hope you get it sorted out, to update to 902 has to be really expensive, dynos are expensive to begin with, I feel for you, I wish you good luck with it.
thats where the "stove bolt" expression came from. the valve cover nuts. the trick I would use with the valve cover gasket was to use rubber cement or door gasket cement to stick the gasket to the cover first. my dad owened a 50 hudson commodore 6. the car I always wanted was the olds rocket 88 but never got one. its to late now. low gear not synchronized.
I lv Gasgacinch, works on both sides of the valve cover & gasket together, works great all the time & never slips, nice 12 volt battery for that old beast !
Time to SUPPORT our Friend Nick ..... Please purchase an Item from Nicks store , T-Shirts, Hoodies and even Stickers for your ride. Also, Maybe Nick could do a LIVE show for real time Donations, and have a few customers do a driveby/burnout for us. we'll get you a New Dyno in No Time Nick !
just thinking out loud but, did you happen to pull your records and do the cost analysis of what each dynoed engine cost, vers the original dyno purchase price? Not asking, simply seems it would be a neat figure for YOU to know.. Good Luck.
Dave Barron. I know one thing, prices are going up on Dyno testing. I was told that I never charged enough in the first place. This tools are not cheap, plus my time.
I like Nicks oppinion on the carpet in cars. My 86 GMC K2500 High Sierra has a rubber floor cover from the factory but my 85 Chevy C30 Silverado has carpet. And that console for the dyno looks more like an ancient Commodore 64 with all those computer chips and PCBs.
Look at the connections that connected and disconnected when connecting/disconnecting an engine. Visually look at where the wires a spliced and where the connector pins are connected. Where the wires connect you may have just a few strains of wire connected giving you good continuity with a meter but there won't be enough wire to carry the power it needs.
Perfectly good, 18 year old dynamometer shot! They just don't build things like they used to. Now Nick is going to have to get a new one. I guess the price of old school muscle just went up.
Dang Nick, tell us how you really feel about carpet.... I myself like the rubber floor, However summer time, new carpet, pull the sandals off and drive barefoot. It's a sweet, sweet feeling.
I wrote this before, and I love your background music. Please either list it or make a CD with Nick Garage's favorite background tracks - I'll buy it! :)
Nick I think with the floors its moisture, if water gets trapped behind the rubber it can and does rot it out, hence why they have carpet to allow it to breath and evaporate but for the winter time you can put in the rubber floor mats that snap in over it. Me personally living on the east coast in an area that gets all the seasons, I took the carpet that snaps in over the carpet and put it in the attic and leave the rubber in all year long and then wash it out and off, and the carpet below it still looks new despite how much sand and crap gets in and around the rubber matt plus sound deadening, carpet probably acts inherently like a sound deadner, and some boats even use specially made carpet that dries out and doesnt hold moisture. think of it like a car cover, you want one that breaths while keeping mosture and dirt off of it otherwise it bakes the paint underneath, same idea, except this time your allowing the mosture to escape so it doesnt rust the metal as I remember peeling the rubber floor mats off my floor once, a concrete floor in the garage, a place that always has humidity, there was water underneath it and it was rotting the carpet, hence the smell, like condensation from the seasons had actually gotten stuck underneath it, stayed in place and was stinking the place up. hence why its the other way around in cars, the carpet first so that moisture can escape through it, and the rubber ontop to catch the dirt Also, Question the challenger is it running a hydraulic cam? it doesnt sound quite like a solid lifter, seems smoother and more rev happy. and when it comes to old technology, the only person I could think of is, not someone who specializes in Dynos, its actually vintage computer gaming, kids name is Clint, does a channel on here called lazy game reviews, not sure if that would be of any help, but 18 years ago would be about 1998, which is where most of his computers seem to be from and earlier, and he just loves building them and dealing with old tech. and guy does fascinating tech history stuff, even from the early 70's with some of that stuff, hence my interest in it as i grew up in that era of gaming, the 90's I mean, sounds weird but it was an era where anything went gaming wise so you had some really unique titles in that time period that no one would put the money behind to create now. as sadly when any industry matures, it looses its creative edge and focuses far more on the bottom line than just trying new things, which is why while I loved movies growing up, I maybe see maybe 1 new one every 3 years now. last one was John Wick 2 with the car battle with the 69 mustang at the start lol and even then while that seems like a few months ago, it was really apparently like a year and a half now. plus side is by the time I want to go see a new movie, they've made a new one already for a series I like I guess lol
When I do valve cover gaskets, especially cork ones, I like to glue them to the valve cover with yellow super weatherstrip adhesive and put a thin film of grease on the side that goes against the cyl. head. I have never had a leak or any problems. Only with cork though.
Went to help my cousin with her stick shift compact that needed a caliper. Anyway.... when I went to drive it it came to me I hadn't driven a standard in 30 years or so. With the small, low torque engine, the first few minutes were "pretty rough" with a few stalls. Ha....
Hey Nick in those days they only used 2nd & 3rd in those old classics 1st was only take off from the lights. Because those old blue flames side valve mopars n ford 6s had tons of torque. Sad news about the Dyno. Time for a heart transplant on the shop
I’m with you Nick on the carpets. Why do trucks essentially come with them it doesn’t make sense. I remember when my dad worked for ford and carpets were an option in a lot of vehicles.
have you looked closely at the board for burn marks or discolouring, I would concentrate on the capacitors and carefully follow the traces on the boards looking for broken ones. Good luck, hate to see perfectly good machines being replaced because the manufacturer says no more parts or support from them. Every part on the boards is available.
ThrillKill good call. He is right Nick. First thing ya do is inspect it to see if it is obvious. Could be the difference between a few bucks or 10s of thousands of bucks. If that doesn't work just remember back and follow your own troubleshooting rules. Knowing what it was and was not doing is the place to start. Something affecting the entire system in other words could be a power or wire connection problem. If you can get a schematic diagram it will help. Again sorry about the dyno Nick. Check wiring harness. It could be just a 600hp rat chewed a wire.
Also the grounds and connectors can get corroded. It may not be visible, just a layer of oxidation. As well as check the power supply is putting out the correct voltages.
I would check the solder connections to that Green switch you always push, especially if the switch is mounted on a circuit board. Every time that switch is pushed, there is stress applied. It may also just be the switch itself.
Nick likely works Saturdays because (it is soo obvious) he loves his work, but it's just as likely because he always has,, why change. We hadda chuckle at Nick putting the ol Chev in reverse when he parked - just as if it were an automatic and put it in "P" :-)
Old Chevys like that you should have just the valves when you have the cover off and you have to glue the gasket to the valve cover and there's a oil tube that flows oil back you supposed to squeeze it off for more oil to the rocker arms
The little I saw of the display indicated an intermittent connection as a likely cause. I would at least disconnect and re-connect any cables, pull and re-seat all the boards, and finally, remove all removable chips that are socketed and re-seat them into their socket.. Just doing those three things may cause the problem to become non-existent. All connections save gold are subject to oxidation, and doing the R&R to them may make the oxidized connection good again. The taillights make me think that was a 49-50 as the 51-2 has a curvier fender and lights that were 'inboard' a bit. The older model looked nicer to me.
Love old cars, hate old technologies(sketchy valve cover gasket sealing/clamping method and crank splash lubrication). My neighbor owned a 51 too, saw the engine completely apart for a full rebuild, no drilled crank, no pressurized oiling in it, just the top end and some other moving parts.
My Dynowas made in 1958 and it's new owner is very happy with it. it was a Heenan And Froude G series . Zero electronics. Heenan and Froude no longer exist as a company but they invented the dyno to determine the power of Naval Steam ships.
yup the old 51.. it was built like a tank.. none of this fiberglass or tin they make cars out of today.. you hit a brick wall with this beaut and the wall falls down with no damage to the car.. and the hoods were always head bangers..... I like the road skirts too.. But it is missing the curb feelers..
I Love Your Brothers Car Nick 😀😀😀 I am Now Officially a Mopar Fan 😊👍🏼 I Sure Hope The Dyno is a Cheap Fix You Need an Electronics Guy Who can Test all The Components And Figure Out What is Wrong The Dyno Situation Really Makes me Sad 😭😭😭
Nick, I know it's been awhile since you posted this video but, places like chevsofthe40s, and the filling station carry parts for the 51 Chevy. Also, the fuel pump arms that are 3 pieces of steel riveted together can be hard on the cam of used as-is out of the box.
Nick, If Laval University isn't too far you probably could find a EE with a scope that could troubleshoot that board no problem. Start with the RPM it is either the sensor or the board and move from there. If you know what the input should be you can test the circuit with a waveform that matches the input. Also many commented on looking for a bad solder joint or blown Cap. Those EEPROMs would also look funny if someone let the smoke out of them-they don't work if you let the smoke out. Or you could print up some new shirts to fund a new dyno maybe one that says "The Hemi that Killed the Dyno" Worst comes to worst get a new Dyno and fix the old one as a backup!
I remember those cars and that column shifter. And if I’m thinking right that valve cover gasket was a thin neoprene v-shape and they would roll over and twist on you
Re carpet vs rubber floor mats. There are a couple reasons why carpet is better,, no one is "tempted to take a hose" (as opposed to a spray bottle and wiping) to the interior of the car is the first GOOD reason for carpet. Floor mat soundproofing (yes,, water seeps in around the edges) soaks up water, causes interior mildew, floor pan rusting, etc, etc. If there's carpet - that is eliminated plus it looks better. The key to keeping carpet in tip top shape - vac and clean it often.
a rubber mat can be taken out and washed,carpet -no.a rubber mat takes years of abuse and doesnt deteriorate,carpet-no,carpet absorbs and holds water,rusting out floor-pans quite easily,rubber-no.i think the rubber idea is brilliant.
I learnt to drive as a 12 year old sitting on a toolbox in a GM HG Holden in far northwest Australia with a 3 on the tree, drum brakes and also learnt how to do standstill burnouts and drift on gravel mining site roads way out the back of the open pit area, safety back then was common sense and the managers were cool, we were miles from anything.
I've owned several cars & trucks with a 3-speed on the column. They are ok, but the bushings go bad & having to pop the hood to yank the shift arms because they got in a bind can be a pain. Of course this occurs much sooner if ya really beat on them, such as racing, lol. Time for new bushings again, and again. They just don't hold up to banging gears. But they absolutely belong on an old classic vehicle to keep all original........it would be a crime to replace it with a 4-speed transmission or automatic.
@cleanview70 had a 66 Dodge A-100 van (first vehicle that I owned) 225 slant six (leaning tower of power) with a 3 on the tree crash box (no syncro in 1st), then I stupidly loaned it to a friend who rode the clutch until it burned out and then he somehow took out half the teeth in 1st so after that it was a fully syncronized 2 speed, later on I boiled all the water out of the cooling system(not a bit of steam) on the California I-5 during a very hot 105 degree F. day, had to drive for half hour before I could get some water, somehow the motor survived that ridiculously bad overheating with zero problems, it boiled water to steam even after I let it cool for half hour. Anyhow I almost forgot I was gonna say it had no carpet on the floor but had purple shag all over the walls and rear and side doors and the raised sleeping platform this truly was a shagging wagon.
Bummer about the Dyno. Hopefully, it's an easy fix. I can't help but think that there isn't a electronic technician that could fix this? It seemed like only the load control failed and the numbers were way off. Hate to see most of it replaced over an obsolete part and probably can be upgraded on the cheap.
Nick looking in the engine department of the beautiful '51 Chevy with his Glasses on is like a good surgeon saving lives...
Not many people build engines than Dyno tune them. Just proves how much of a great person nick is.
Chris Horst. Thanks Chris.
Typo edit: Man, when he was backing his brother's car out of the bay it looked like he missed hitting the lift by millimeters. Good luck with the dyno, Nick!
Nice old car that 51 Chev, hope you get your dyno working soon Nick.
There used to be people who could fix electric equipment. There was a circuit schematic attached to the panel of each piece, and the tech would track down the problem. Most times it was a 50 cent part.
Steve Drake. Those were the good old days Steve. I wish I had the schematics on the Dyno.
I'm a die hard mopar guy, but that 51 Chev is gorgeous! They really knew how to design cars (appearance wise) back then. As always, love hearing Phil's machine scream. That's a nasty car. Good luck sorting out the dyno!
I agree with u nick about the carpet in cars and trucks...they just water and dirt and just rust out everything...I just love how they were made back then...better..
Nick always tells how it is..without drama..without yelling..and people always respect and listen to what he says...
Beautiful piece of history
Cannot find another garage with so much different muscle cars , good place to hang out.NICK'S GARAGE
As someone that used to work on digital and analog CNC machines years ago we had similar problems with control circuit boards. On some of the older model machines we didn't have the luxury of getting new replacements either so one of the problems we found was silver migration causing micro tracks that were causing bridges between circuits that would cause erratic behaviour. We would send them out to an outside company that would wash the boards and remove the silver that had migrated from the solder. It might be worth looking into an industrial maintenance company that works on all types of equipment before pulling the trigger on an expensive upgrade.
Nick always has something good to say about every vehicle he works on. That's a true car guy in my opinion. That race Challenger runs like a scalded cat! I hope you get the Dyno repaired soon Nick.
I know you miss your most important piece of equipment in your shop. It's like your signature on every engine you and your guys build.
I've watched and subscribed to Nick's channel since the beginning. You can sense the honesty, integrity and experience in the man; he's the real deal, a true car guys' car guy.
Damn sad to see the dyno go on the fritz. How does the deal work with those, anyways? Are new ones only sold outright
or are there payment and/or leasing options available from that company?
Either way, Nick will figure it out. He always does with the tenacity he has.
moparedtn. No, to buy an upgrade dyno, you have to pay in full before delivery. Not only that, I have to pay in US dollars with exchange of 34%. Next, pay transport, pay for someone from SuperFlow to fly to Montreal, pay Hotel and car rental. And of coarse, I have to put my time in it to help for the installation. After all this, It will take a some time to recover this expense.
Good Lord. Well, it will be glorious when the problem is found then anyways.
Good luck!
18 years from 1 dyno is a pretty good run. It has done a number of engines. 😉
David W. Very true, time to upgrade.
Nick, i'm so sorry to hear bout your dyno..my best to you as you figure it out. And you will.... but all that down time bites....... bless you,
A trick I use when I put a valve cover gasket on a straight 6 I put Indian head gasket shellac on the gasket and place it on the valve cover it helps keep it in place
High Five to no carpet~!
Maybe a gofund thing...... Idea. Alot money for a engine new dyno. It make you a lot happier with the dyno numbers and tune in. Wish u the best of luck.
Tim D. I wish I had luck on this issue, but no luck.
Nick you have the best attitude of any mechanic that I have ever seen. Keep up the great job
Nick get someone to re-cap the dyno.
Capacitors dont last forever, probably the power supply.
Also pull the boards and reseat them, use deoxit.
Thanks! Your comment about carpets in an automobile, 100% correct
COOL ! my dad bought a 51 chevy 2dr coupe new...drove it till about 62...his said it threw a rod and he sold it for 50 US..ha. Won some money in reno and bought a new Olds 394 holiday LOL.. I agree on the carpet ...I have a chevy pick up 1974 6cyl 3 on the floor STOCK no carpet...great truck... thanks for sharing .. good luck with the dyno what ever you do !
Blessed mother of acceleration, please help Nick fix the dyno!
Nick: you might have to go with the new electronics package. Thank you for posting. My son told me about your UA-cam channel. I thought "yeah, sure." I found it on my own, then tried telling him about it. He busted me! You truly have a great garage, and a great UA-cam channel. Thank you for keeping those great old machines alive!! I ordered a couple Nick's Garage stickers; one for my son, and one for my garage refrigerator.
Thanks guys. We’re glad that you’re part of the channel.
As always, good video! I used to put a smear of contact cement on the valve cover gasket to hold it in place in the valve cover... that worked well as long as it was clean. My old Dad used to always say the same thing about carpet in cars!
That sucks that it broke down. I hope your able to find the issue. With some luck it is a bad switch or control rely/driver. Fingers crossed 🤞.
mike fedele. No luck, going with an upgrade Dyno.
On the 51 valve cover gasket I use Indianhead Gasket Shellac. I learned from my grandfather who ran a top notch service station till 1980 that this is how it's done. He would put it on the valve cover and glue in the gasket so it couldn't move, then install it. You never saw any sealant, it always held and it's not to hard to remove.
Werewolf486. Thanks, good to know.
My dad always had Plymouth Fury's when I was a kid and they never had carpet.
So Right on About Carpet in Trucks etc. Always a Good Watch.
The only problem with the 51 Chevy was dip oiled connecting rods.
I swear I could smell you guys spraying that carb cleaner from memory on that old Chevy from all the way down here in the U.S. in my bedroom watching this! lol! thanks again guys! great stuff! ▪☆☆☆▪
Never gave the carpet issue a second thought, but l agree...l drove a 1988 R model Mack with a rubber mat floor that had insulation underneath it - it was perfect
Sorry to hear about the Dynamometer being still down. I hate to hear that the only thing that the manufacturer can do is replace. I know that it would be nice to fix it but time is money. Sure if you had lots of time and someone who is knowledgeable in electronics it could be fixed with enough time. The problem is how long can you afford to be down. I say try the simple fixes like swap out the power supply, clean contacts, replace cables, re-seat the socketed ICs, and look for the obvious. If that does not work plan on spending the money and getting it up and making money again. You might get some money from selling the old unit for parts as well.
Nathan R. Been there, done that. Waiting on a new upgrade.
Sorry about your Dyno. I love the Mopar rides. First car was a 426 1968 Roadrunner 4 spd. Paid $300 bucks in 1976 for it. It was toast. Electrical, mechanical, body and paint damage. Dad rebuilt it for my 16th birthday. What a car to start out in. I somehow survived. Lol.
PS. It made me a better driver.
sorry but NO.nice fantasy though,best of luck in your future and try to keep it REAL.428 HEMI ROADRUNNER at 16,i dont frigging think so dude.
Nick is totally right about car carpets. Why there has to be those, those collect snow and melt and therefore rusting. You're not walking home with shoes on so why putting carpets to the car? Nick and his team are like surgeons, opening the heart of the car and fix it ♥ Nick, I'm a electrician, and that dyno gives you wrong info, so I think the issue might be on the other stuff which are on the engine room, sensors or something. Mostly if something breaks up, it goes dead, but your dyno is still alive, and probably gets wrong info from broken sensor.
Don't forget, moisure can also be trapped behind rubber floor coverings - especially once they get a hole or tear in them.
Best thing, most probably, would be a nice thick layer of paint (and sealer?) as a barrier between any floor covering and the metal of the vehicle.
I'm assuming that dyno doesn't have a good troubleshooting booklet. If you knew what the operating range was, you could ohm check the resistance of all the sensors and see if one of em is sending bad values
GordoWG1 WG1. You are so correct.
K Note. You are so correct. No schematics.
Nice old film effects while test driving the '51. Yellow tint and scratches, I half expected to see the film break and burn up!
I always wondered why carpet was put in instead of rubber floor board covers. Beautiful old Chevy!
Amen to the rubber floor mats. If it could get things that way, I would.
18 years was a good run for it. I'm sure some local electronics guy could fix it, if parts are available. I'd start by looking at the rpm "pickup" first and back-trace to the console with an oscilloscope.
I'm not in Canada or I'd visit for fun. no youtube though ;)
I gotta say...
It's good to be Nick~!
After 18 years of service from that dyno Nick has more than gotten his moneys worth out of it.
Love that 51 things were more simple then. I’d rather work on those all day than what we have now!! Of course I love my nice cold meat locker air on while my Hemi is going up and down 75!!
man those chip to chip wiring systems are solid man, you probably will find the faults within the power supply or, bad caps or burnt resistors, things from 18 years ago is a lot easier to fix by yourself than todays electronics, with its small circuits and surface mount components. go and get a hold of a electronics repair man, and get a hold of a reputable one, and then get a hold of the schematics of this thing, so he can probe it out for faults and fix the probelms, if they are electronical.
What Pioneerz said but also check to be sure all the grounds are tight. It looks like the tachometer is hunting as if there is no zero reference or loose ground. Check on the dyno end first as that is where the majority of the vibrations are.
also, this circuit if you know what you look at looks rather simple and easy to troubleshoot, I think Nick would lose a treasure if he upgrades to a new system, as it will be a lot harder to user service and probably much more expensive to repair when fault occurs as I would imagine that a whole new replacement part will be used instead of troubleshooting the circuits, plus old electronics are built much more discrete and simpler thus making it more bulletproof to faults, and I think it's for these reasons that Nick has been able to use this daily for 18 years.
Pioneerz. I am doing my best to solve this problem. Gone through so much with others to fix it but no luck.
Nick Panaritis I can pop in to take a look myself if you like.
Peter Struwing. That's nice of you, but I have an upgrade Dyno coming in soon. Thank you.
Nick, the "Hello Kitty" version wasn't good enough?
GOOD! I LIKE the Demon!
steve
I was thinking about this broken dyno. One technique I used in diagnosing electronic assemblies (alarm systems and fire controls) was to look for a microchip that was either too hot or too cold, starting with the power supply. If you haven't given up the repair, you could test for a hot chip with a laser temperature gun, or even the back of a finger on each chip.
If you can read and list the numbers on the chips, and list them, perhaps another viewer can suggest testing for those, and maybe replacements (I had to swap whole circuit boards).
However, unless you get lucky, one might have to de-solder each component (or unplug each sub-assembly) to isolate the offening part.
For the continuity testing, I use a terminal strip with a set of different value resistors at one end of the harness, one for each pair, and a familiar ohm-meter at the other end. For contact points, I operate each contact for consistant resistance, or swinging resistance.
A big headache just thinking about it.
So, how many shop hours do you need to bill to buy new equipment? Big ouch.
Mark Robson. I did all I can like you mentioned Mark, and with no schematics, no luck. And yes, many shop hours to pay for new equipment.
Well to Bad about the Dyno. That Chevy is really Clean, but your brothers Drag Car looks and sounds Wicked.
Wow, what a bummer, really sorry to hear about the dyno Nick. I hope you get it sorted out, to update to 902 has
to be really expensive, dynos are expensive to begin with, I feel for you, I wish you good luck with it.
Gadsden Viper. Thanks Gadsden, you are correct, not cheap to upgrade to a SF902.
thats where the "stove bolt" expression came from. the valve cover nuts. the trick I would use with the valve cover gasket was to use rubber cement or door gasket cement to stick the gasket to the cover first. my dad owened a 50 hudson commodore 6. the car I always wanted was the olds rocket 88 but never got one. its to late now. low gear not synchronized.
I lv Gasgacinch, works on both sides of the valve cover & gasket together, works great all the time & never slips, nice 12 volt battery for that old beast !
Diggin that jazzy intro 🎷🎺🎸
Now that's a HEMI!!!
Well I hope it is an easy fix but if you have to upgrade then take it to heart that it did it's job and cranked out hundreds of motors!
That RT is Radical!
Time to SUPPORT our Friend Nick .....
Please purchase an Item from Nicks store , T-Shirts, Hoodies and even Stickers for your ride.
Also, Maybe Nick could do a LIVE show for real time Donations, and have a few customers do a driveby/burnout for us.
we'll get you a New Dyno in No Time Nick !
Because I cannot Live without Nicks Garage once a week !
You guys are the best!
Just dropped 50 bucks in the store 👍
No doubt Michael got to get the fix of the bad ass Mopars with some Dyno runs
Nick's Garage and so are you sir!
sorry to hear about your Dino hopefully you can get it fixed soon
just thinking out loud but, did you happen to pull your records and do the cost analysis of what each dynoed engine cost, vers the original dyno purchase price? Not asking, simply seems it would be a neat figure for YOU to know.. Good Luck.
Dave Barron. I know one thing, prices are going up on Dyno testing. I was told that I never charged enough in the first place. This tools are not cheap, plus my time.
I bet, those things are expensive I am sure. Enjoy all your work / videos. Thanks.
I like Nicks oppinion on the carpet in cars. My 86 GMC K2500 High Sierra has a rubber floor cover from the factory but my 85 Chevy C30 Silverado has carpet. And that console for the dyno looks more like an ancient Commodore 64 with all those computer chips and PCBs.
The carpet is there to help keep the road noise down and stuff...I was in the second year of High School when this car hit the road...in 1961....!
Nick when ever you start a hemi it drowns the sound out because of the power. Too 😎!
Look at the connections that connected and disconnected when connecting/disconnecting an engine. Visually look at where the wires a spliced and where the connector pins are connected. Where the wires connect you may have just a few strains of wire connected giving you good continuity with a meter but there won't be enough wire to carry the power it needs.
USN_Ret-84-05. Been there and done that.
Good luck, brother, wish I was there to lend a hand.
A couple of awesome rides and hope the Challenger does well at the track! Pity about the Dyno but I'm sure you will get it sorted Nick, best of.
I agree, on rubber floor ;)
Sorry about the dyno nick, that sucks for sure. Agreed 100% on the carpet issue! Thanks bud, take care!
Rubber rules! Thanks for your comment.
Perfectly good, 18 year old dynamometer shot! They just don't build things like they used to. Now Nick is going to have to get a new one.
I guess the price of old school muscle just went up.
Dang Nick, tell us how you really feel about carpet....
I myself like the rubber floor, However summer time, new carpet, pull the sandals off and drive barefoot. It's a sweet, sweet feeling.
I wrote this before, and I love your background music. Please either list it or make a CD with Nick Garage's favorite background tracks - I'll buy it! :)
We're pleased that you like our picks. All the music is in UA-cam's creator's tools section, free for you to download.
Nick I think with the floors its moisture, if water gets trapped behind the rubber it can and does rot it out, hence why they have carpet to allow it to breath and evaporate but for the winter time you can put in the rubber floor mats that snap in over it. Me personally living on the east coast in an area that gets all the seasons, I took the carpet that snaps in over the carpet and put it in the attic and leave the rubber in all year long
and then wash it out and off, and the carpet below it still looks new despite how much sand and crap gets in and around the rubber matt
plus sound deadening, carpet probably acts inherently like a sound deadner, and some boats even use specially made carpet that dries out and doesnt hold moisture.
think of it like a car cover, you want one that breaths while keeping mosture and dirt off of it otherwise it bakes the paint underneath, same idea, except this time your allowing the mosture to escape so it doesnt rust the metal
as I remember peeling the rubber floor mats off my floor once, a concrete floor in the garage, a place that always has humidity, there was water underneath it and it was rotting the carpet, hence the smell, like condensation from the seasons had actually gotten stuck underneath it, stayed in place and was stinking the place up.
hence why its the other way around in cars, the carpet first so that moisture can escape through it, and the rubber ontop to catch the dirt
Also, Question the challenger is it running a hydraulic cam? it doesnt sound quite like a solid lifter, seems smoother and more rev happy.
and when it comes to old technology, the only person I could think of is, not someone who specializes in Dynos, its actually vintage computer gaming, kids name is Clint, does a channel on here called lazy game reviews, not sure if that would be of any help, but 18 years ago would be about 1998, which is where most of his computers seem to be from and earlier, and he just loves building them and dealing with old tech.
and guy does fascinating tech history stuff, even from the early 70's with some of that stuff, hence my interest in it as i grew up in that era of gaming, the 90's I mean, sounds weird but it was an era where anything went gaming wise so you had some really unique titles in that time period that no one would put the money behind to create now.
as sadly when any industry matures, it looses its creative edge and focuses far more on the bottom line than just trying new things, which is why while I loved movies growing up, I maybe see maybe 1 new one every 3 years now.
last one was John Wick 2 with the car battle with the 69 mustang at the start lol and even then while that seems like a few months ago, it was really apparently like a year and a half now.
plus side is by the time I want to go see a new movie, they've made a new one already for a series I like I guess lol
Kavinisky Smith. The cam in the Challenger is Hydraulic.
When I do valve cover gaskets, especially cork ones, I like to glue them to the valve cover with yellow super weatherstrip adhesive and put a thin film of grease on the side that goes against the cyl. head. I have never had a leak or any problems. Only with cork though.
David. Thanks for the info David.
I agree about carpet in cars in trucks . Rubber is so much cleaner and easier to keep clean . Why manufacturers insist on carpeting , it’s ridiculous
Went to help my cousin with her stick shift compact that needed a caliper. Anyway.... when I went to drive it it came to me I hadn't driven a standard in 30 years or so. With the small, low torque engine, the first few minutes were "pretty rough" with a few stalls. Ha....
Keep it up boss... Great job
Sad about dyno hope you can fix
Thats why i always put throw away pieces of carpet or floor mats in my trucks
I clap my feet before I get in my car, and I force my passengers to do it too haha
Hey Nick in those days they only used 2nd & 3rd in those old classics 1st was only take off from the lights. Because those old blue flames side valve mopars n ford 6s had tons of torque. Sad news about the Dyno. Time for a heart transplant on the shop
Dyno is a gotta have.Anything else is just best guess.
I’m with you Nick on the carpets. Why do trucks essentially come with them it doesn’t make sense. I remember when my dad worked for ford and carpets were an option in a lot of vehicles.
have you looked closely at the board for burn marks or discolouring, I would concentrate on the capacitors and carefully follow the traces on the boards looking for broken ones. Good luck, hate to see perfectly good machines being replaced because the manufacturer says no more parts or support from them. Every part on the boards is available.
ThrillKill Yes electrolytic caps especially , they go bad after the period Nic said.
Check all Capacitors on that Nick....18 years old you're gonna have some leaky ones. Also could have cold solder joints on some of those boards
ThrillKill good call. He is right Nick. First thing ya do is inspect it to see if it is obvious. Could be the difference between a few bucks or 10s of thousands of bucks. If that doesn't work just remember back and follow your own troubleshooting rules. Knowing what it was and was not doing is the place to start. Something affecting the entire system in other words could be a power or wire connection problem. If you can get a schematic diagram it will help. Again sorry about the dyno Nick. Check wiring harness. It could be just a 600hp rat chewed a wire.
Also the grounds and connectors can get corroded. It may not be visible, just a layer of oxidation. As well as check the power supply is putting out the correct voltages.
I would check the solder connections to that Green switch you always push, especially if the switch is mounted on a circuit board. Every time that switch is pushed, there is stress applied. It may also just be the switch itself.
Hope you get a new dyno soon
I hope you get your Dyno figured out!!
I agree I’m a Ford guy but I do love all cars and will never put anyone’s car down
Nick likely works Saturdays because (it is soo obvious) he loves his work, but it's just as likely because he always has,, why change. We hadda chuckle at Nick putting the ol Chev in reverse when he parked - just as if it were an automatic and put it in "P" :-)
Old Chevys like that you should have just the valves when you have the cover off and you have to glue the gasket to the valve cover and there's a oil tube that flows oil back you supposed to squeeze it off for more oil to the rocker arms
The little I saw of the display indicated an intermittent connection as a likely cause.
I would at least disconnect and re-connect any cables, pull and re-seat all the boards, and finally, remove all removable chips that are socketed and re-seat them into their socket.. Just doing those three things may cause the problem to become non-existent. All connections save gold are subject to oxidation, and doing the R&R to them may make the oxidized connection good again.
The taillights make me think that was a 49-50 as the 51-2 has a curvier fender and lights that were 'inboard' a bit. The older model looked nicer to me.
Wish I could hang around that shop .
Love old cars, hate old technologies(sketchy valve cover gasket sealing/clamping method and crank splash lubrication). My neighbor owned a 51 too, saw the engine completely apart for a full rebuild, no drilled crank, no pressurized oiling in it, just the top end and some other moving parts.
Non power steering cars the steering wheel actually turns quite easy if you wait until the car is trying to roll then they actually turned pretty easy
Rusty Stuff. TRUE.
Hopefully you can fix the dyno as opposed to having to buy a new one but 18 years Damn it maybe time for an upgrade
My Dynowas made in 1958 and it's new owner is very happy with it. it was a Heenan And Froude G series . Zero electronics. Heenan and Froude no longer exist as a company but they invented the dyno to determine the power of Naval Steam ships.
Love the old cars you're right mate carpets are a pain cleaning they should do hard plastic or rubber sorry to hear about your engine Dyno
Rubber floors rock!
yup the old 51.. it was built like a tank.. none of this fiberglass or tin they make cars out of today.. you hit a brick wall with this beaut and the wall falls down with no damage to the car.. and the hoods were always head bangers..... I like the road skirts too.. But it is missing the curb feelers..
I Love Your Brothers Car Nick 😀😀😀 I am Now Officially a Mopar Fan 😊👍🏼 I Sure Hope The Dyno is a Cheap Fix You Need an Electronics Guy Who can Test all The Components And Figure Out What is Wrong The Dyno Situation Really Makes me Sad 😭😭😭
Nick, I know it's been awhile since you posted this video but, places like chevsofthe40s, and the filling station carry parts for the 51 Chevy. Also, the fuel pump arms that are 3 pieces of steel riveted together can be hard on the cam of used as-is out of the box.
Brad Boustead. Good point there Brad. Nice to know and thanks for the info.
Nick,
If Laval University isn't too far you probably could find a EE with a scope that could troubleshoot that board no problem. Start with the RPM it is either the sensor or the board and move from there. If you know what the input should be you can test the circuit with a waveform that matches the input. Also many commented on looking for a bad solder joint or blown Cap. Those EEPROMs would also look funny if someone let the smoke out of them-they don't work if you let the smoke out.
Or you could print up some new shirts to fund a new dyno maybe one that says "The Hemi that Killed the Dyno"
Worst comes to worst get a new Dyno and fix the old one as a backup!
MP G. I like the way you think, thanks, good idea.
cold solder on the board, I'm thinking a tv tech could source it for you.
I remember those cars and that column shifter. And if I’m thinking right that valve cover gasket was a thin neoprene v-shape and they would roll over and twist on you
That challenger sounds awesome !
Re carpet vs rubber floor mats. There are a couple reasons why carpet is better,, no one is "tempted to take a hose" (as opposed to a spray bottle and wiping) to the interior of the car is the first GOOD reason for carpet. Floor mat soundproofing (yes,, water seeps in around the edges) soaks up water, causes interior mildew, floor pan rusting, etc, etc. If there's carpet - that is eliminated plus it looks better. The key to keeping carpet in tip top shape - vac and clean it often.
a rubber mat can be taken out and washed,carpet -no.a rubber mat takes years of abuse and doesnt deteriorate,carpet-no,carpet absorbs and holds water,rusting out floor-pans quite easily,rubber-no.i think the rubber idea is brilliant.
For all you young ones out there thats called a 3 on the tree.
I had a Chevy Van with 4 on the tree! The reverse was a thick steel wire jury rigged. That van was a blast!
I learnt to drive as a 12 year old sitting on a toolbox in a GM HG Holden in far northwest Australia with a 3 on the tree, drum brakes and also learnt how to do standstill burnouts and drift on gravel mining site roads way out the back of the open pit area, safety back then was common sense and the managers were cool, we were miles from anything.
They give you a great feeling of 'command' when you slam 'em down from 2nd to 3rd.
I've owned several cars & trucks with a 3-speed on the column. They are ok, but the bushings go bad & having to pop the hood to yank the shift arms because they got in a bind can be a pain. Of course this occurs much sooner if ya really beat on them, such as racing, lol. Time for new bushings again, and again. They just don't hold up to banging gears. But they absolutely belong on an old classic vehicle to keep all original........it would be a crime to replace it with a 4-speed transmission or automatic.
@cleanview70 had a 66 Dodge A-100 van (first vehicle that I owned) 225 slant six (leaning tower of power) with a 3 on the tree crash box (no syncro in 1st), then I stupidly loaned it to a friend who rode the clutch until it burned out and then he somehow took out half the teeth in 1st so after that it was a fully syncronized 2 speed, later on I boiled all the water out of the cooling system(not a bit of steam) on the California I-5 during a very hot 105 degree F. day, had to drive for half hour before I could get some water, somehow the motor survived that ridiculously bad overheating with zero problems, it boiled water to steam even after I let it cool for half hour. Anyhow I almost forgot I was gonna say it had no carpet on the floor but had purple shag all over the walls and rear and side doors and the raised sleeping platform this truly was a shagging wagon.
Thank you.
i was so looking forward to you giving the Challenger some gas! Thanks!
You're welcome. Isn't that a sweet sound?
A New dyno will have 90 percent less wires etc. and easier to trouble shoot swap out bad parts. 18 yrs is good for that.
Bummer about the Dyno. Hopefully, it's an easy fix. I can't help but think that there isn't a electronic technician that could fix this? It seemed like only the load control failed and the numbers were way off. Hate to see most of it replaced over an obsolete part and probably can be upgraded on the cheap.
1962pjb. I was hoping it would be an easy fix. After trying so many things, and with outside help, no luck.
Nick Panaritis Yikes! The alternative is pricey. I wish there was another way? Hmm? 🤑😬