Thoroughly impressed with everything you went over and how you went over it. Thank you...i'm going to clean my EGR now...see if i can get rid of that pesky code!!
Thanks for the video, a lot of us guys, and girls of course, just can't afford to be paying shop rates every time something goes wrong. And a lot of us are mechanically inclined but simply don't have the knowledge. Guys like you and your videos are a huge help and we all appreciate them! So Thank You!
Once you get in there and get your hands on it you'll never be afraid of an EGR again. Go get that thing. Remember no vacuum leaks allowed when you put it back on the vehicle! It must be 100% air tight. If your EGR comes with a metal shim or seal replace it during installation with a new one.
Means the valve is stuck open and needs to be cleaned. If cleaning doesn't fix it then it's likely a rusted valve piston keeping it stuck in place. There's no way to fix a rusted stuck piston to my knowledge, it would need to be replaced. A bad/busted rubber diaphragm will keep the valve closed, not stuck open, so it's not the rubber diaphragm in your case.
@Linda Sellers There is no reply button on the bottom of your message. Usually this is due to the privacy settings you have. It only makes sense if he attempts to use the 91 octane as a replacement for brake cleaner... using fuel as the cleaning agent. Fuel does OK on carbon as does Kerosene which is the main ingredient in Mopar's CCC or Seafoam. I hope that makes more sense.
Hi, I have a 1995 Acura legend with 226,000 miles, my check engine light comes on and stays solid after driving few miles, I got a egr sensor code reading. I’m wandering if I just need to replace the egr valve with sensor and don’t have carbon buildup. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cleaner valves and IM sounds like a good enough reason to me!! Thanks!! Now I'm assuming that by blocking it off, it would cause a CEL light since the EGR has a sensor. Is there a way around that?? Like maybe an ECU flash of some sort?? Also would blocking it off affect any of the other systems that use vacuum pressure on that line??? (or are there any??)
Codes only tell you that a part is not functioning as it should. That's why I say cleaning the EGR doesn't mean it's going to fix an EGR code. It's still just as important to test the sensor which I cover in a different video but it's for the Mazda 626. You'll want to find a repair manual for your vehicle to learn how to test your EGR sensor. I recommend everyone check out my sensor diagnostic video too no matter what vehicle you own. I show how EGR passages are built into the intake manifold and the best place to look for clogs. The same concept applies pretty much to any vehicle older than 1997 as they all used vacuum EGR valves back then. More learning about older EGR systems ->. ua-cam.com/video/ZSKs1WfM70I/v-deo.html If you don't have a 626 then start watching at 6:39 in that video to get a better understanding of EGR passages. They're important to finding clogs. ;)
Hey i had to do the same on my 626 i just bought another EGR clean the throtel body and were the egr goes but the engine light its still one keep going to autozone and advance to get the engine light check and it keeps telling me the egr its not reading
What's the code? Could be the wiring or grounding issue. Check the plug for corrosion and make sure the pins are making good contact. Test the EGR solenoids. All Mazda 626's have EGR solenoids but some might have 2 and some have 3. Depends on year, engine, and transmission config. A solenoid can fail and still report that it's working just fine to the ECU especially on the 93-95 OBD-I models. Also make sure that port where the gas enters the intake manifold isn't clogged that's the #1 source of EGR clogs on the 626, MX6, Probe, and Protege!
+Gustavo Melendez Find the factory diagnostic procedure for electrically testing your EGR valve. P2144 means the control circuit is below expected threshold. The PCM cannot control venting of EGR gasses correctly. Generally this means faulty wiring, faulty sensor, or clogged EGR passage to the point the measuring piston gets stuck open. Needs electronic diagnostics and if necessary a physical inspection of the inside of the valve for a clog.
This is a great educational video. It's funny how you recently got a vacuum pump, after I considered getting one - what a strange coincidence. One suggest I would give is to shorten your intro, maybe keep the extending version as the main video on your channel's home page.
Thanks for the great compliment! Due to your suggestion I might begin tinkering with the intro again. Oh and I've had my vacuum pump for about a year. Just never got around to using it in a video. ;)
mrjost55 In case you haven't noticed I've been running a much shorter 10 second intro for a while now. It's much more appealing to new users. Thanks for the suggestion.
The O2 sensors will force the ECU to compensate fuel trims automatically. That means no change in performance or MPG. The only thing that will change is higher emissions. In some states it's illegal to disable the EGR system the same way it's illegal to delete the catalytic converter. If you have a stock setup there's no beneficial reason to delete those things.
I live in a part of the country where emission testing is not required. (Lucky me!) I was thinking about deleting the egr with a small piece of sheet metal with 2 holes drilled where the bolts go. I heard that outside of emissions control, it does nothing more than gunk up your intake manifold. Would this be a good or bad idea in your professional opinion??? Btw, Thank You for everything you've done here and on your other vids!!! Has helped me sooooooo much!!! Restoring a 94 Probe GT!!!! I am going to do everything in my power (and budget) to have it running better than ever before by Spring 2015!!!!!!!!
I'm hardly a professional but thanks for thinking of me in such a way. Honestly anything you do to deviate from the stock setup will force the vehicle to run in an unoptimized state. It would require me to write an essay on why deleting the EGR is not in your best interest. Unless you're highly advanced and getting into turbo tuning leave the EGR where it is. Sheet metal should work ok but keep an eye out for it rusting through. Sheet metal won't last forever. A milled piece of aluminum would probably last longer and be a better option. I've seen guys cut up beer cans, flatten them out, and drill holes for the bolts. Free aluminum block off. ;)
Thank you for taking the time out of your day to comment. Brake cleaner is no joke. Feels like acid in your eyes. Nasty stuff. I didn't have any blind spots, I rushed to the sink in seconds. I have a sink very close by. Flushed my eye for like 5 mins. I don't know what I would have done if I'd gone blind for a day. That's some seriously permanently life altering scary stuff. Any lingering effects? How long ago was your incident? I get teased sometimes about being too cautious but you really validate the danger associated with any procedure using aerosol carb/brake cleaner. I try to provide full disclosure on anything that might cause harm to a viewer that follows the procedures I show. Thank you.
DJDevon3 this was about 3 or 4 years ago. I ran straight to the sink too. I got a ton of it straight in my eyes. started going blind after about 15 minutes of flushing and called ambulance. they flushed with saline solution on the way to hospital where they flushed for another hour and said there was nothing else they could do. no lasting effects that I can tell other than anxiety about chemicals. I wear splash proof Google search now haha. I want so blind that I couldn't see, everything was just so blurry that I could make anything out. I have a mechanic friend that gets in his eyes all the time and said he's never gone blind, it just burns. maybe I just got a ton in there. thanks for the reply! I know how hard it can be to stay caught up on that! great vids!
I've also added a pair of goggles that have full contact foam around the eye sockets similar to dirt bike goggles. Dewalt makes an awesome pair with an elastic headband, I love em. I usually use them when I'm grinding on something as they're excellent for protection against airborne metal particles like aluminum dust. They fog up easily so gotta work quick with them.
Nice video. You explained every part of the egr indetail. Good to know that there's a diffenrence between man and auto trans. The quick field test is also good to know for a diy guy like myself. Thx Cheeks4929
It mostly does. Our EGR's look almost identical and operate almost exactly the same way. I pulled my EGR a couple years ago shortly after I bought my '97 NA, as I was getting the P040x code. The plunger was stuck closed and wouldn't move. I cleaned it the "wrong" way by soaking it in carb cleaner first. Ultimately I had to pry on the end of the EGR piston with a flat screwdriver to break it free. After further cleaning of the EGR body and lubricating the piston, I have had no codes since. Still I wish I'd seen this video first.
Peacefrog0521, you bring up a good point. It's a good idea to lubricate the rubber with silicon grease to prolong the life of the rubber. As long as it's silicon based. Never use petroleum based grease on rubber parts, it will eventually melt through them like acid over a long period of time. Thanks for the compliment. :)
Never really concerned on how to clean this, but just looked it up for the hell of it if it was a good thing to do... glad to see a vid of someone who knows what they're talking about. Good vid!
BTW, I have been struggling with the 407 emissions code (I think that's the number) and the guy who replaced the OEM EGR said I should use a tankfull of 91 octane to clean out the "line." Does that make sense? I like that you're careful to do things right and make the process logical and easier...
91 octane is not good for prolonged use if your vehicle is not rated for it, alot of people use it thinking it is better gas but infact if the vehicle is not meant to use 91 the 91 octane will not burn as efficiently and leave behind carbon deposits. Octane is the resistance to burn so the higher the octane rating the more resistant it is to burning which is why higher compression engines use 91 or higher octane that way the fuel does not preignite in the combustion chamber. If your vehicle is rated for 87 prolonged use of 91 will leave behind carbon as all of the fuel is not being burned.
Are you talking the holes like a port matching polish or just an exterior polish? I can do both but is there any benefit to polishing the interior holes?
LOL! No... there would be no benefit. I polished the exterior. I polished the exterior of a fart re-breather. On a 4g63 it's buried under the intake manifold, covered up by the car battery, so nobody will ever see it anyways. It's the dumbest thing I've ever polished and I showed it in my cylinder head port and polish video. lol. :F
***** I don't think it's dumb to try and make things look nice. However, in the case of the EGR it would be a really dumb thing to do. It has that special rust inhibitor coating from the factory. Don't want to take that off if you can help it. No I've never polished one but I've done my fair share of stupid stuff like everyone else.
I have taken my truck to a couple mechanics, because it surges so bad that it about dies at low rpm, they think that it is my egr valve, would cleaning it fix the surge?
+Shane Economu Depends on the year, model, and how the evap system is setup. All vehicles are different. There's no way I can answer your question. Ask your mechanic to provide you diagnostic proof. If he's guessing then he isn't doing his job. Mechanics are like car doctors. You wouldn't go to a doctor that says "well i'm pretty sure your limp is because you have a bad leg, we need to amputate." Get professional diagnostic proof.
will it be a bad idea to soak the bottom part of the EGR in some sort of liquid clear? taking good care not getting any of it on the rubby part? idk, maybe paint thinner?
You could definitely do that. I would use Acetone based paint thinner. Carb and brake cleaner is basically just an aerosol version of acetone, that's all it is. Guess what else is acetone based... fingernail polish remover. The entire premise behind carb cleaner is that some guy a long time ago borrowed his wife's fingernail polish remover to clean car parts... when he discovered how well it worked he decided to make it into an aerosol and sell it ;) For really bad carbon build up that you cannot scrape off (it's possible). You can indeed soak it overnight being careful not to get it on the diaphragm or sensor.
For the 2 ports I take a brass or steel pipe cleaner-clip the loop off of the end and put it into a drill. Use caution when inserting it into the egr valve as you could hit the piston rod. It works much faster than picking. Then use the carb cleaner.
U won't believe it; i went to change my fuel filter and found that the rubber hose was falling apart and needed replaced but the rubber line was factory made onto the steel line. i cut off the steel line on both sides of the filter and used a compression fitting on the cut off steel line ;the opposite end of the fitting was barbed and allowed me to clamp on efi hose and i though that would fix my stalling issue but it did not. Next i filled up and put in a can of sea foam in the tank...Almost instantly the stalling stopped Plus, the smoke i was getting went i'd first start the truck is Gone! I call that additive Mechanic in a Can! I think that deteriorating rubber fuel line was getting into the gas and clogging things up, and/or water in the gas. Try the sea foam and tell me if it helps.
A regular vacuum gauge can do it and is much cheaper. The gun is only used to apply the vacuum but vacuum can still be measured with a stand alone gauge. Some type of vacuum gauge is required to accurately measure vacuum.
I was experimenting with video editing. Almost every intro was a little different back. All of my most recent videos now have a 10 second intro. I've heard this complaint so many times already, they're really old videos. I don't do that anymore. Go watch a recent one and you'll see. :)
+Billy Hurley WD40 is a lubricant not a cleaner. I wouldn't be against using it on the rod directly after a thorough cleaning in order to lube the piston again but that's about it.
The wires on dremels are notorious for flying off and they don't work very well. I consider them a waste of money. A small bottle brush is a good idea but it's not going to get the backside of the pintel or stopper.
If I just wanted to work and get it done then I wouldn't be making instructional videos. There's more to learning than just watching someone else work.
Most EGR's prior to 1996 were vacuum actuated. There were still some manufacturers that used vacuum EGR's well after 1996 but around 2003 everything started to go electronic with the world-wide adoption of OBD-II. If your vehicle is older than 1996 chances are you could benefit from watching this video. Glad it helped with your 4Runner that's awesome. :)
I went and tested it. It fixed the stutering and stalling, but I still loose acceleration on second gear. I am going to be cleaning my throttle Body tomorrow.
Could be a lot of things such as bad injector, faulty purge solenoid, or low fuel pressure to name a few. Don't throw parts at it, take it to a professional technician for diagnostic.
Started getting a little frustrated trying to figure out a good way to explain it because it's so hard to see in those holes. Thank you for the compliment at least I got the message across to one person. :)
Yup this video can be beneficial to Ranger and Mazda B-series owners of the 90's since they would have used a very similar design. Most 90's vehicles used vacuum actuated EGR valves. Other manufacturers had wildly different designs (Chevy, dodge, etc..) but the concept is the same. I wouldn't be surprised if you found a Mitsubishi symbol on your Ranger EGR valve as well. ;)
No I don't think wetdry sandpaper would work well in this scenario at all. The cavern inside the EGR is oddly shaped you couldn't clean inside it in that manner plus the carbon would clog up the paper the first time you used it. Use pick tools instead. Something as simple as a flathead eyeglass screwdriver would work well. Use whatever you need to as a pick tool.
Sorry I never noticed your reply Elliott. The most common source for EGR clogs is inside the throat of the intake manifold where the EGR gas is shot into the manifold. It's about the size of a pencil and what I was referring to in the video. This video is only for showing how to clean the EGR valve not the entire EGR system. I have another video that does show the opening into the intake manifold that I'm talking about here... ua-cam.com/video/ZSKs1WfM70I/v-deo.htmlm40s
Ary M Sure, carb clean, brake clean, throttle body cleaner are all basically the same thing (with minor differences). Any acetone or benzine based aerosol solvent would work just fine.
+TheSeriousCat Good to know. Thanks. I was always under the impression that break cleaners are solvents that do remove oil products as well! Perhaps not.
***** Brake cleaner is for cleaning brake dust which is hazardous to your health. It helps minimize dust to wet everything down so you don't breath brake dust while wailing away on a stuck rotor or something like that. It cleans the rotor surface of dust allowing for clean contact... just to name one of many potential uses for it. You can clean petroleum based grease and oils with it no problem. Brake cleaner is a more caustic aggressive version of carb cleaner. Spray one of each on each hand and see which one aggravates your skin more. Carb cleaner can be found in "sensor safe" varieties so that it's not as caustic on metal, plastic, or rubber. Brake cleaner is not recommended for usage on anything other than brakes because of it's caustic nature. It can degrade plastic and rubber with prolonged exposure because they are petroleum based products, only use on metal parts if possible. So avoid spraying it on OEM rubber brake lines. Best practice is targeted spraying not wild spraying.
People are impatient. Let the solution react with the combustion product. The chemical rate of reaction is slow. One spray is not going to magically clean it. Let it sit.
Letrool Haje I try to cut out all dead air so that you don't have to waste time listening to a pause in the action and keeping the length of the video much shorter. That's what all of the jump cuts are hiding... that and every time I say "umm" or "so" and things like that. I don't get them all but I try to.
Absolutely. Use whatever you'd like. Picks are more commonly used because brushes take a while to brush off carbon. Imagine brushing a charcoal briquette instead of using a pick to break it up. It can take longer but eventually you'll get the same result.
Thoroughly impressed with everything you went over and how you went over it. Thank you...i'm going to clean my EGR now...see if i can get rid of that pesky code!!
Thanks for the video, a lot of us guys, and girls of course, just can't afford to be paying shop rates every time something goes wrong. And a lot of us are mechanically inclined but simply don't have the knowledge. Guys like you and your videos are a huge help and we all appreciate them! So Thank You!
Tommy West Thanks for the nice comment Tommy. That means a lot to me, thank you.
Very descriptive video. Learned a lot. Bravo!!!
Have the courage now to tackle mine.
Cheers.
Once you get in there and get your hands on it you'll never be afraid of an EGR again. Go get that thing. Remember no vacuum leaks allowed when you put it back on the vehicle! It must be 100% air tight. If your EGR comes with a metal shim or seal replace it during installation with a new one.
That was such a gay intro😂😂
You sound like Big Hoss on Pawnstars...but you're a much nicer guy. :-)
Thanks for your videos.
Great job on the well explained video!
Thank you
@@DJDevon3 very well explained thank you sir. from philippines
Both ports in the bottom are connected????
I can spray liquid on one hole and it comes out of the other with out sucking on that thing
Means the valve is stuck open and needs to be cleaned. If cleaning doesn't fix it then it's likely a rusted valve piston keeping it stuck in place. There's no way to fix a rusted stuck piston to my knowledge, it would need to be replaced.
A bad/busted rubber diaphragm will keep the valve closed, not stuck open, so it's not the rubber diaphragm in your case.
@@DJDevon3 thanks... i ran a bicycle with thru it... it was clogged... thats what it was... THANK YOU!!!!
@Linda Sellers There is no reply button on the bottom of your message. Usually this is due to the privacy settings you have. It only makes sense if he attempts to use the 91 octane as a replacement for brake cleaner... using fuel as the cleaning agent. Fuel does OK on carbon as does Kerosene which is the main ingredient in Mopar's CCC or Seafoam. I hope that makes more sense.
DJDevon3
Hi, I have a 1995 Acura legend with 226,000 miles, my check engine light comes on and stays solid after driving few miles, I got a egr sensor code reading. I’m wandering if I just need to replace the egr valve with sensor and don’t have carbon buildup. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
You could turn it to the side and spray the carb remover in there so it doesn't spray in your eyes
Where's the fun in that?
Cleaner valves and IM sounds like a good enough reason to me!! Thanks!!
Now I'm assuming that by blocking it off, it would cause a CEL light since the EGR has a sensor.
Is there a way around that??
Like maybe an ECU flash of some sort??
Also would blocking it off affect any of the other systems that use vacuum pressure on that line??? (or are there any??)
I'm not really the one to ask about EGR block offs. I've never actually done it. There should be plenty of info on forums about it.
Great! Concise, detailed and very informative. I appreciate that you "cut to the chase." THANK YOU!
So basically for both holes in the bottom to be opened u will have to suck on it???? Cus i can just spray things in it and itl come out the other side
put the damn thing in a can of Barrymans carb cleaner for an hour hose it off let DRY over night bolt it back on and drive..
thanks, code 25 on my 91 toyota pickup states that EGR could be the problem. great video
Codes only tell you that a part is not functioning as it should. That's why I say cleaning the EGR doesn't mean it's going to fix an EGR code. It's still just as important to test the sensor which I cover in a different video but it's for the Mazda 626. You'll want to find a repair manual for your vehicle to learn how to test your EGR sensor. I recommend everyone check out my sensor diagnostic video too no matter what vehicle you own. I show how EGR passages are built into the intake manifold and the best place to look for clogs. The same concept applies pretty much to any vehicle older than 1997 as they all used vacuum EGR valves back then. More learning about older EGR systems ->. ua-cam.com/video/ZSKs1WfM70I/v-deo.html If you don't have a 626 then start watching at 6:39 in that video to get a better understanding of EGR passages. They're important to finding clogs. ;)
On the grass in the yard....
😂😂😂💀
Hey i had to do the same on my 626 i just bought another EGR clean the throtel body and were the egr goes but the engine light its still one keep going to autozone and advance to get the engine light check and it keeps telling me the egr its not reading
What's the code? Could be the wiring or grounding issue. Check the plug for corrosion and make sure the pins are making good contact. Test the EGR solenoids. All Mazda 626's have EGR solenoids but some might have 2 and some have 3. Depends on year, engine, and transmission config. A solenoid can fail and still report that it's working just fine to the ECU especially on the 93-95 OBD-I models. Also make sure that port where the gas enters the intake manifold isn't clogged that's the #1 source of EGR clogs on the 626, MX6, Probe, and Protege!
Well explain great video,I did learn something new🙂
Nice to know, I definitely want to start doing this stuff on my own soon, and this has been a big help!
Thank you for the eye safety warning. It's really, really important to take that seriously. Easy to overlook!
Hello, DJDevon3. can you help me? I'm having troubleshoting with p2144 on my mazda 6 3.0 what I have to do. thanks.
good video.
+Gustavo Melendez Find the factory diagnostic procedure for electrically testing your EGR valve. P2144 means the control circuit is below expected threshold. The PCM cannot control venting of EGR gasses correctly. Generally this means faulty wiring, faulty sensor, or clogged EGR passage to the point the measuring piston gets stuck open. Needs electronic diagnostics and if necessary a physical inspection of the inside of the valve for a clog.
Thanks myfriend
This is a great educational video. It's funny how you recently got a vacuum pump, after I considered getting one - what a strange coincidence. One suggest I would give is to shorten your intro, maybe keep the extending version as the main video on your channel's home page.
Thanks for the great compliment! Due to your suggestion I might begin tinkering with the intro again. Oh and I've had my vacuum pump for about a year. Just never got around to using it in a video. ;)
mrjost55 In case you haven't noticed I've been running a much shorter 10 second intro for a while now. It's much more appealing to new users. Thanks for the suggestion.
Her clean Toyota truck 1984
What happens if i just disconnect the vacuum tube? better mpg ?
The O2 sensors will force the ECU to compensate fuel trims automatically. That means no change in performance or MPG. The only thing that will change is higher emissions. In some states it's illegal to disable the EGR system the same way it's illegal to delete the catalytic converter. If you have a stock setup there's no beneficial reason to delete those things.
if I'm getting a bad egr valve will cleaning it make it better and able to use my sensors are built on top of my egr 2004 mercury gran marquis
I live in a part of the country where emission testing is not required. (Lucky me!)
I was thinking about deleting the egr with a small piece of sheet metal with 2 holes drilled where the bolts go.
I heard that outside of emissions control, it does nothing more than gunk up your intake manifold.
Would this be a good or bad idea in your professional opinion???
Btw, Thank You for everything you've done here and on your other vids!!!
Has helped me sooooooo much!!!
Restoring a 94 Probe GT!!!!
I am going to do everything in my power (and budget) to have it running better than ever before by Spring 2015!!!!!!!!
I'm hardly a professional but thanks for thinking of me in such a way. Honestly anything you do to deviate from the stock setup will force the vehicle to run in an unoptimized state. It would require me to write an essay on why deleting the EGR is not in your best interest. Unless you're highly advanced and getting into turbo tuning leave the EGR where it is. Sheet metal should work ok but keep an eye out for it rusting through. Sheet metal won't last forever. A milled piece of aluminum would probably last longer and be a better option. I've seen guys cut up beer cans, flatten them out, and drill holes for the bolts. Free aluminum block off. ;)
I've gotten brake cleaner in my eye the same way (with a motorcycle caliper)- went blind for 6 hours and had to call an ambulance. Great vid man!
Thank you for taking the time out of your day to comment. Brake cleaner is no joke. Feels like acid in your eyes. Nasty stuff. I didn't have any blind spots, I rushed to the sink in seconds. I have a sink very close by. Flushed my eye for like 5 mins. I don't know what I would have done if I'd gone blind for a day. That's some seriously permanently life altering scary stuff. Any lingering effects? How long ago was your incident? I get teased sometimes about being too cautious but you really validate the danger associated with any procedure using aerosol carb/brake cleaner. I try to provide full disclosure on anything that might cause harm to a viewer that follows the procedures I show. Thank you.
DJDevon3 this was about 3 or 4 years ago. I ran straight to the sink too. I got a ton of it straight in my eyes. started going blind after about 15 minutes of flushing and called ambulance. they flushed with saline solution on the way to hospital where they flushed for another hour and said there was nothing else they could do. no lasting effects that I can tell other than anxiety about chemicals. I wear splash proof Google search now haha. I want so blind that I couldn't see, everything was just so blurry that I could make anything out. I have a mechanic friend that gets in his eyes all the time and said he's never gone blind, it just burns. maybe I just got a ton in there. thanks for the reply! I know how hard it can be to stay caught up on that! great vids!
I've also added a pair of goggles that have full contact foam around the eye sockets similar to dirt bike goggles. Dewalt makes an awesome pair with an elastic headband, I love em. I usually use them when I'm grinding on something as they're excellent for protection against airborne metal particles like aluminum dust. They fog up easily so gotta work quick with them.
Nice video. You explained every part of the egr indetail. Good to know that there's a diffenrence between man and auto trans. The quick field test is also good to know for a diy guy like myself.
Thx
Cheeks4929
Thank you for your informative video.
Guess it applies to MX5 as well.
It mostly does. Our EGR's look almost identical and operate almost exactly the same way. I pulled my EGR a couple years ago shortly after I bought my '97 NA, as I was getting the P040x code. The plunger was stuck closed and wouldn't move. I cleaned it the "wrong" way by soaking it in carb cleaner first. Ultimately I had to pry on the end of the EGR piston with a flat screwdriver to break it free. After further cleaning of the EGR body and lubricating the piston, I have had no codes since. Still I wish I'd seen this video first.
Peacefrog0521, you bring up a good point. It's a good idea to lubricate the rubber with silicon grease to prolong the life of the rubber. As long as it's silicon based. Never use petroleum based grease on rubber parts, it will eventually melt through them like acid over a long period of time. Thanks for the compliment. :)
Never really concerned on how to clean this, but just looked it up for the hell of it if it was a good thing to do... glad to see a vid of someone who knows what they're talking about. Good vid!
BTW, I have been struggling with the 407 emissions code (I think that's the number) and the guy who replaced the OEM EGR said I should use a tankfull of 91 octane to clean out the "line." Does that make sense? I like that you're careful to do things right and make the process logical and easier...
91 octane is not good for prolonged use if your vehicle is not rated for it, alot of people use it thinking it is better gas but infact if the vehicle is not meant to use 91 the 91 octane will not burn as efficiently and leave behind carbon deposits. Octane is the resistance to burn so the higher the octane rating the more resistant it is to burning which is why higher compression engines use 91 or higher octane that way the fuel does not preignite in the combustion chamber. If your vehicle is rated for 87 prolonged use of 91 will leave behind carbon as all of the fuel is not being burned.
Yes, but have you ever POLISHED one? :P
Are you talking the holes like a port matching polish or just an exterior polish? I can do both but is there any benefit to polishing the interior holes?
LOL! No... there would be no benefit. I polished the exterior. I polished the exterior of a fart re-breather. On a 4g63 it's buried under the intake manifold, covered up by the car battery, so nobody will ever see it anyways. It's the dumbest thing I've ever polished and I showed it in my cylinder head port and polish video. lol. :F
*****
I don't think it's dumb to try and make things look nice. However, in the case of the EGR it would be a really dumb thing to do. It has that special rust inhibitor coating from the factory. Don't want to take that off if you can help it. No I've never polished one but I've done my fair share of stupid stuff like everyone else.
'just letting you know I can be a dumbass. ;)
*****
Maybe I'll try using coffee filters next time and paint the inner holes with glyptol. :P
What about how to plate the port?
Run a tank of Gumout in the engine to clean parts while you drive. The heat loosens carbon.
I have taken my truck to a couple mechanics, because it surges so bad that it about dies at low rpm, they think that it is my egr valve, would cleaning it fix the surge?
+Shane Economu Depends on the year, model, and how the evap system is setup. All vehicles are different. There's no way I can answer your question. Ask your mechanic to provide you diagnostic proof. If he's guessing then he isn't doing his job. Mechanics are like car doctors. You wouldn't go to a doctor that says "well i'm pretty sure your limp is because you have a bad leg, we need to amputate." Get professional diagnostic proof.
Thanks, Very helpful
Hi DJDevon3, I have a datsun 280z 1977, Can you please make a video... How to clean a "back pressure transducer valve" Thank you. My regards
Highly unlikely.
Be careful with the diaphragm. Acetone will dissolve rubber and high temperature silicon rubbers.
Excellent video
thanks so much, good video, I did mine in Toyota camry code cleared and won't come back
will it be a bad idea to soak the bottom part of the EGR in some sort of liquid clear? taking good care not getting any of it on the rubby part? idk, maybe paint thinner?
You could definitely do that. I would use Acetone based paint thinner. Carb and brake cleaner is basically just an aerosol version of acetone, that's all it is. Guess what else is acetone based... fingernail polish remover. The entire premise behind carb cleaner is that some guy a long time ago borrowed his wife's fingernail polish remover to clean car parts... when he discovered how well it worked he decided to make it into an aerosol and sell it ;) For really bad carbon build up that you cannot scrape off (it's possible). You can indeed soak it overnight being careful not to get it on the diaphragm or sensor.
94 galant dtc 43 4g64 sohc erg fault, hopefully easy fix
For the 2 ports I take a brass or steel pipe cleaner-clip the loop off of the end and put it into a drill. Use caution when inserting it into the egr valve as you could hit the piston rod. It works much faster than picking. Then use the carb cleaner.
Great tip! Will still require some manual cleaning if the EGR is stuck open but your idea sure would make really quick work of it! Great suggestion!
Will A bad EGR give fault code for 02 sensors
Hi' i'm not getting a code but could it be the case that a clogged egr is what's causing my 91 dakota to cough and stall out occasionally? thanks
aw man thanks a lot; my truck is idling fine so i can omit the egr thing today and look at the fuel and such...thanks again!
Hey I dont know what happened to the reply but what did you do? I have a stalling issue on my S10 as well.
U won't believe it; i went to change my fuel filter and found that the rubber hose was falling apart and needed replaced but the rubber line was factory made onto the steel line. i cut off the steel line on both sides of the filter and used a compression fitting on the cut off steel line ;the opposite end of the fitting was barbed and allowed me to clamp on efi hose and i though that would fix my stalling issue but it did not. Next i filled up and put in a can of sea foam in the tank...Almost instantly the stalling stopped Plus, the smoke i was getting went i'd first start the truck is Gone! I call that additive Mechanic in a Can! I think that deteriorating rubber fuel line was getting into the gas and clogging things up, and/or water in the gas. Try the sea foam and tell me if it helps.
Kevin S. alright I will have to try that. Did you just add it to the fuel or also spray it into the intake?
since mine would start up, i only poured it into the tank, plus it's designed to mix with a full tank. hope you have my luck!
great video-very thorough and easily explained from all aspects.
Holy shit! I did not know carb cleaner was water!!! I have been wasting money for years!!!
rickyboyz100 He clearly meant "liquid" when he said water. Either you're not very bright or just jumping on any opportunity to be a jerk.
Is there a way to test it without the gun?
A regular vacuum gauge can do it and is much cheaper. The gun is only used to apply the vacuum but vacuum can still be measured with a stand alone gauge. Some type of vacuum gauge is required to accurately measure vacuum.
ON 2001 Mictsubishi mirage where ISS THE EGR valve is at?
+Michael Mark Martinez ua-cam.com/video/xyn42Hb3upA/v-deo.html
Thanks buddy
Thanks buddy, great video and very well explained
Buy a new one
Thank you for such an informative and helpful video!
very good but the intro is not so relevant & necessary. thanks anyways for this video.
I was experimenting with video editing. Almost every intro was a little different back. All of my most recent videos now have a 10 second intro. I've heard this complaint so many times already, they're really old videos. I don't do that anymore. Go watch a recent one and you'll see. :)
Very good video!
Thanks for sharing!
are you ever going back to doing any more FSde videos or 626 videos ??
I've intended on it for years but I got sick and haven't been right since. That's just life when you get old I guess.
no permanent damage.. that i know of hahaha
was this EGR Valve on petrol engine or on diesel engine?
Petrol. I don't know much about the European 626 diesel since it wasn't available in North America. :(
would wd40 do the same job as the cleaner you used?
+Billy Hurley WD40 is a lubricant not a cleaner. I wouldn't be against using it on the rod directly after a thorough cleaning in order to lube the piston again but that's about it.
why not use a dremel with a brush on a medium speed wouldn't that be faster and cleaner???
The wires on dremels are notorious for flying off and they don't work very well. I consider them a waste of money. A small bottle brush is a good idea but it's not going to get the backside of the pintel or stopper.
When you're done with the dremel just vacuum any wires out. I've used mine on tons of projects and they have been a d.I.Y lifesaver.
CCdude I'm not against the idea. It's definitely a valid method and good suggestion for those that want to do it. As a preference it's not for me.
Where can we get that vacuum unit?
I got it from Amazon. Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit
DJDevon3 Cool. Also, can you please link to your EGR diagnosis and repair video? Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/ZSKs1WfM70I/v-deo.html Also added to the video description. It's in an annotation but mobile users do not see annotations anymore. :(
First, check to see if it holds a vacuum...
I cover theory of operation, testing, and cleaning in this video. ;)
can i use a round wire brush instead those picks
Sure. Bottle brushes and pipe cleaners will work well.
THUMPS UP.....VERY NICE
Habla mucho y trabaja poco. Creo que tiene que dedicar menos tiempo a la charla y poner manos a la obra.
If I just wanted to work and get it done then I wouldn't be making instructional videos. There's more to learning than just watching someone else work.
***** do not get me wrong, it's just a review (;
You are a mastermind mind. I just found this to be my issue on my 85 4runner re22. Thank you so much man.
Most EGR's prior to 1996 were vacuum actuated. There were still some manufacturers that used vacuum EGR's well after 1996 but around 2003 everything started to go electronic with the world-wide adoption of OBD-II. If your vehicle is older than 1996 chances are you could benefit from watching this video. Glad it helped with your 4Runner that's awesome. :)
I went and tested it. It fixed the stutering and stalling, but I still loose acceleration on second gear. I am going to be cleaning my throttle Body tomorrow.
Could be a lot of things such as bad injector, faulty purge solenoid, or low fuel pressure to name a few. Don't throw parts at it, take it to a professional technician for diagnostic.
I have tried. Been to many, but noone and the OBD 1. I'll keep looking. They said the dealer should have one.
Nicely explained on how the valve works!
Started getting a little frustrated trying to figure out a good way to explain it because it's so hard to see in those holes. Thank you for the compliment at least I got the message across to one person. :)
yOU THE MAIN THANKS
Thanks for video, I need to do this to my ranger
Yup this video can be beneficial to Ranger and Mazda B-series owners of the 90's since they would have used a very similar design. Most 90's vehicles used vacuum actuated EGR valves. Other manufacturers had wildly different designs (Chevy, dodge, etc..) but the concept is the same. I wouldn't be surprised if you found a Mitsubishi symbol on your Ranger EGR valve as well. ;)
what if we use sand paper the thin one?
No I don't think wetdry sandpaper would work well in this scenario at all. The cavern inside the EGR is oddly shaped you couldn't clean inside it in that manner plus the carbon would clog up the paper the first time you used it. Use pick tools instead. Something as simple as a flathead eyeglass screwdriver would work well. Use whatever you need to as a pick tool.
Excellent video
MAX APPRECIATION 💎
where will this valve in our engine
Mazda 626 - EGR Inspection & Testing
good imformation
thankyou fab
updates?
I'm also getting a map code
Ok thank you
Engine light still on sorry
Sorry I never noticed your reply Elliott. The most common source for EGR clogs is inside the throat of the intake manifold where the EGR gas is shot into the manifold. It's about the size of a pencil and what I was referring to in the video. This video is only for showing how to clean the EGR valve not the entire EGR system. I have another video that does show the opening into the intake manifold that I'm talking about here... ua-cam.com/video/ZSKs1WfM70I/v-deo.htmlm40s
200
Can I use a break cleaner instead of carb cleaner? Btw, great video. Thanks
Ary M Sure, carb clean, brake clean, throttle body cleaner are all basically the same thing (with minor differences). Any acetone or benzine based aerosol solvent would work just fine.
+DJDevon3 awesome, thanks
+TheSeriousCat
Good to know. Thanks. I was always under the impression that break cleaners are solvents that do remove oil products as well! Perhaps not.
***** Brake cleaner is for cleaning brake dust which is hazardous to your health. It helps minimize dust to wet everything down so you don't breath brake dust while wailing away on a stuck rotor or something like that. It cleans the rotor surface of dust allowing for clean contact... just to name one of many potential uses for it. You can clean petroleum based grease and oils with it no problem. Brake cleaner is a more caustic aggressive version of carb cleaner. Spray one of each on each hand and see which one aggravates your skin more. Carb cleaner can be found in "sensor safe" varieties so that it's not as caustic on metal, plastic, or rubber. Brake cleaner is not recommended for usage on anything other than brakes because of it's caustic nature. It can degrade plastic and rubber with prolonged exposure because they are petroleum based products, only use on metal parts if possible. So avoid spraying it on OEM rubber brake lines. Best practice is targeted spraying not wild spraying.
This guy talk to much mmmm
So do you. Actions speak louder than words. Show me what you do. K.
People are impatient. Let the solution react with the combustion product. The chemical rate of reaction is slow. One spray is not going to magically clean it. Let it sit.
just listening to you makes me feel out of breath
Letrool Haje I try to cut out all dead air so that you don't have to waste time listening to a pause in the action and keeping the length of the video much shorter. That's what all of the jump cuts are hiding... that and every time I say "umm" or "so" and things like that. I don't get them all but I try to.
You said "umm" right as I read "umm" on this comment. 😆 Lol.
thanks man
can you use a brush to clean ?
Absolutely. Use whatever you'd like. Picks are more commonly used because brushes take a while to brush off carbon. Imagine brushing a charcoal briquette instead of using a pick to break it up. It can take longer but eventually you'll get the same result.