I had really good success with a tiny dab of Silver Max Lithium Complex Molybdenum Grease (what I had kicking around) on the back of each lug where you can see it makes contact & bolt face (not body). Wipe up any excess with a patch after cycling. I originally cleaned with solvent and then oiled with Hoppes but I wasn’t satisfied. It was a lot better but the grease is where it’s at. I’ve heard good things about gear oil on the lugs too. Might be better for dusty scenarios but there is snow on the ground here. I popped the bolt open and it was nicely greased from the factory inside there - just wiped it around a bit. Appreciate the content!
When you're trying to troubleshoot metal to metal contact areas that need to be smoothed or lapped, a good method is to clean the parts off and color the areas with a Sharpie marker. When you work the parts, the Sharpie will wear off and show you the exact areas that need to be done, if any.
Thank you I appreciate you watching them all. I'm excited for some upcoming videos I plan on getting some different brands of ammo and doing some group testing at 100 yards
To date a CVA Cascade had the most zippery bolt of all the rifles i own until the Stevens 334. It actually binds and i have to work it until it runs in. I have thoroughly cleaned and oiled it (and it has gotten better). This is my biggest gripe with it. Hopefully it will work itself out. The trigger is a little heavy, but not horrible. I will probably adjust it down at some point. Overall I'm happy with mine. Thank you posting videos on this gun.
Commenting after reading the first sentence of your comment... have you never handled a ruger american? You can damn near feel the machining marks in the action
Yes, clean and re-oil every moving part, often. I did that more than a few times on 20MM weapons coming out of storage. That Cosmoline type coating we used would protect but needed a heated vat for removal. That Rem Oil is good enough.
Slip 2000 is one heck of an oil for this application. You may try rubbing the bolt body with 0000 Steel wool for a very, very fine polish. Also, a product called Flitz applied on the body, worked back and forth will give you a silky finish. Best of luck!
The reason you have to push it forward is there is a small spring loaded plunger on the left side of the bolt not sure what it’s for but you should try removing it n see if the gun functions without it
I wouldn't remove it. It's there to keep tension on the bolt. It keeps the bolt down and in battery and keeps pressure on the lugs. Do not remove it please!
I wouldn't do it on my bolt. But it may help. The majority of the high spots I saw were in the action not the bolt. I wouldn't want to rub the finish off the bolt at risk rusting issues down the road
You cannot lap the bolt lugs after the headspace has been set. I guess technically you could lap the bolt body but it would just remove the finish off the bolt and potentially contaminate the action with abrasive. All that type work needs to be done before finishing and final assembly. It's a really bad idea to lap the lugs after headspace has been set tho. Lubrication and working the bolt is the best safe way to do it. It's really smoothing up now already just after four shots and Lubrication
@Dartfreak75 actually ya can lap the lugs or lug if there is one that's not making full contact. As long as your not a Mr bean and just do the high spot very slow and checking every cpl turns. Don't worry the gunsmiths of the world love guys like you ♥️ ❤️ lol
@johncollins1958 I am the gunsmith! Lol I'm the one that sets the shoulder back on a barrel to get the correct headspace after someone laps the lugs on a headspaced barrel 😅
As an old-schooler, 3-in-1 oil and I go way back! Works. Thanks for sharing. Have a blessed day!
@jmac6242 thank you for watching! I have alot to learn from you old schoolers!
Exactly what I came looking for. Thought it was just me. Thanks for the video.
I had really good success with a tiny dab of Silver Max Lithium Complex Molybdenum Grease (what I had kicking around) on the back of each lug where you can see it makes contact & bolt face (not body). Wipe up any excess with a patch after cycling.
I originally cleaned with solvent and then oiled with Hoppes but I wasn’t satisfied. It was a lot better but the grease is where it’s at. I’ve heard good things about gear oil on the lugs too. Might be better for dusty scenarios but there is snow on the ground here.
I popped the bolt open and it was nicely greased from the factory inside there - just wiped it around a bit.
Appreciate the content!
When you're trying to troubleshoot metal to metal contact areas that need to be smoothed or lapped, a good method is to clean the parts off and color the areas with a Sharpie marker. When you work the parts, the Sharpie will wear off and show you the exact areas that need to be done, if any.
That's a great tip. Try some dykem layout fluid! Same principle but works better than sharpie. But I used to use sharpie as well!
Enjoying the series. We’ve had the Turqua here in Aus for a year or so.
Thank you I appreciate you watching them all. I'm excited for some upcoming videos I plan on getting some different brands of ammo and doing some group testing at 100 yards
To date a CVA Cascade had the most zippery bolt of all the rifles i own until the Stevens 334. It actually binds and i have to work it until it runs in. I have thoroughly cleaned and oiled it (and it has gotten better). This is my biggest gripe with it. Hopefully it will work itself out. The trigger is a little heavy, but not horrible. I will probably adjust it down at some point. Overall I'm happy with mine. Thank you posting videos on this gun.
Your welcome thank you for watching. I have never shot a cascade but I have heard good things about them id like to get my hands one one
Commenting after reading the first sentence of your comment... have you never handled a ruger american? You can damn near feel the machining marks in the action
Yes, clean and re-oil every moving part, often. I did that more than a few times on 20MM weapons coming out of storage. That Cosmoline type coating we used would protect but needed a heated vat for removal. That Rem Oil is good enough.
Thank you for watching I appreciate it! I've used rem oil for years probably time to get with the modern times and upgrade lol
That worked for me no problem, like glass good to go
Slip 2000 is one heck of an oil for this application. You may try rubbing the bolt body with 0000 Steel wool for a very, very fine polish. Also, a product called Flitz applied on the body, worked back and forth will give you a silky finish. Best of luck!
Thanks ill give those products a look. I appreciate you watching!
The reason you have to push it forward is there is a small spring loaded plunger on the left side of the bolt not sure what it’s for but you should try removing it n see if the gun functions without it
I wouldn't remove it. It's there to keep tension on the bolt. It keeps the bolt down and in battery and keeps pressure on the lugs. Do not remove it please!
@@Dartfreak75 absolutely correct! Do not remove anything and trust a professional not a keyboard tapper
Watched your other video try letting your gun feed from the magazine see if the bolt doesn't close easier
Good idea thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Wonder if polishing it with 000 steel wool would help ?
I wouldn't do it on my bolt. But it may help. The majority of the high spots I saw were in the action not the bolt. I wouldn't want to rub the finish off the bolt at risk rusting issues down the road
BTW I like your username im a mauser guy myself. I'm building a 6 5x55 m96. I have several videos on it check them out!
@@Dartfreak75 I’ve got a couple of Swedish Mausers myself and gave my Daughter & her husband each one . Have more but they’re different calibers .
@mausercal65 I've got several myself I love them. Probably my favorite rifle closely followed by the 1903
Nice! Good video brother 👍
Thank you my friend I appreciate you watching!
👍
You need to get aluminumoxide valve grinding compound. And lap the bolt . Thats the only way in my opinion to do this.
You cannot lap the bolt lugs after the headspace has been set. I guess technically you could lap the bolt body but it would just remove the finish off the bolt and potentially contaminate the action with abrasive. All that type work needs to be done before finishing and final assembly. It's a really bad idea to lap the lugs after headspace has been set tho. Lubrication and working the bolt is the best safe way to do it. It's really smoothing up now already just after four shots and Lubrication
@@Dartfreak75 not the lugs. Didn't say the lugs. The bolt body.
@Dartfreak75 actually ya can lap the lugs or lug if there is one that's not making full contact. As long as your not a Mr bean and just do the high spot very slow and checking every cpl turns. Don't worry the gunsmiths of the world love guys like you ♥️ ❤️ lol
@johncollins1958 I am the gunsmith! Lol I'm the one that sets the shoulder back on a barrel to get the correct headspace after someone laps the lugs on a headspaced barrel 😅
JB Bore compound would work better I think.
75!!
Thank you
Thank you I appreciate you!