Car Body Filler Bondo Tips and Tricks #12 + Evercoat Easy sand review
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2019
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Your work is the best, you should have your own TV show mate
Trev makes a very very good job with these videos and he is really good in his profession.Thank you
I learn much and enjoy your teaching style...you've got real talent!
Bought all the supplies for my first respray yesterday. They recommended this product so I got some - glad to see it get the thumbs up from a pro 👍🏻 no excuses now!
Trev, the guys who loves to share their knowledge to the community, makes you the pro who is not afraid to share knowledge. You sir, is very skilled and I enjoy watching you videos. Eventually I will be doing this to my project and sharing some of this too. I will definitely give you a shout out on my channel! Thanks again!
Great tips! Thank you, Trev.
What a craftsman you are. Thank you sir for your efforts.
W Lange Hey Thanks 🤩 much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
Thank you so much for making great videos like this! I've learnt so much from you.
Brilliant! By the way for those who might not know; keep a shallow pan with some lacquer thinner in it. Toss your spreaders in when you have finished spreading the filler. In a minute or two remove spreader and wipe with a rag and all the filler is off the spreader!
Trev, thanks for the helpful video. Lots of good tips! I like your old Sparco driver's suit!
Great video, lots of good techniques.
Class act, is our Trev!!!
Very good reviews. I really enjoy watching your tips and tricks. Thanks, Tom
Okie-Tom Hey Thanks, your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
I learn something new on every one of your videos thanks so much
Thanks Trevor...........nice to see you back with the tips. Have a great new year!
nouvalari thank you 🤩 cheers Trev 👍
Lovely work , really good instruction .
Well done again great work
Very interesting Trev, thank you for making and sharing this video. Many tips and tricks I never knew before 👌👍😎
Thanks Paul 👍
I’ve been looking forward to these Trev. Great tutorial and tips video there. I was in the trade for 25 years and this really is good information to help people get their work better. Happy New Year!
MARK842205 Thanks I appreciate that. Cheers Trev 👍
A lot of great tips thank you 😊
Some excellent work there👍👍
Cheers Trev
Excellent content thank you for sharing
Very good demo thx
Great work mate thanks for all the time and effort learning a lot your are a very talented teacher looking forward to seeing more of your work.
Many years ago, there was a product called Alumalead. It was the great thing since sliced bread!
This brings back memories for me. I remember the old rock hard fillers, which were hard work, then the lightweights, which had polystyrene as the filler, very easy to sand but the adhesion was so bad that you couldn't get a feather edge. Then the creamy ones came in like this product, which were very useful to finish with. I don't suppose you remember the old cellulose stopper? Great if you could leave it for 6 months!!. Thanks for sharing your skills Trev. Oh, and what possessed you to paint the wheels red ?!!?
Fillers are not all equal as I discovered either! I now use quality filler such as Upol and though a little more expensive than some, certainly save a lot of time in ease of application, sanding and re filling after shrinkage! The masking tape trick is one I had overlooked too!! Another top vid mate!
In case you have worked in some air in the putty, knock from the downside against your mixing board and you will see how the air bubbles come out.
What you also could try, is mixing of easy sand with fiber tech -results to a smooth surface and high building bodyfiller in one step!
Thanks for the very practical demonstrations. I'm going through them all.
One question, what grit are you using on the long block sanders?
OK, so where is the tutorial on how to go from rusty wheels to those? Great stuff as ever! 👍
Great work Trev, when are you going on tour? I live in Taree NSW Australia
Cool!
Hi Trev have you tried Evercoat Rage? performs pretty well ! similar to the easy sand but may work out cheaper?? We also use the Evercoat ultra light and Upol Dolphin but haveing issues with pinholeing in both thinking about a change there!
It's the differing lights, for example the panel in your demonstration has dark patches which reflect the light far less than the grey primer, the camera can only focus on one or tother therefore it goes in and out focusing on the nearest.
Thats a very fine finish filler. Good open time on it. Will have to try it rather than stopper for a final skim. What epoxy primer do you use? Never been keen on putting anything filler wise over a paint substrate unless its a stopper.
One thing I always reccomend is blowing the dust thoroughly out of the filler surface before recoating or priming. Helps adhesion and also helps prevent sinkage and scratching showing up. I also guide coat my filler as I would primer. This is especially useful when fine finishing the filler as it shows the scratching. Nice work as always👍
N K It’s HB body epoxy. Adhesion is definitely improved especially using fibreglass paste you really must key it well before filling. It is quite a brittle product so I wouldn’t put too much on. Cheers Trev 👍
Be interesting to see the ca bedford with rear hinged doors. Kennex made a pick up with hinged doors but at the front.
Hi trey great videos!!!
Can I ask where do you get the large flexible spreaders from as I’ve been trying to find some unsuccessfully?
Cheers Lee
lee regan Normally loads of different spreaders available on eBay 😁. Cheers Trev 👍
I have a big question I cannot seem to get answered. How long can rage Ultra stay over epoxy that is not primed during a restoration? Let me add that the car is inside the garage all the time but now that summertime is coming the humidity may be increased
Just done the side and rear doors of my van with the stuff using your tips and I’m really happy with how it’s gone. Very little clogging and dead easy to feather. Only problems are it’s damn expensive in Australia and so hot that I had to work in quick stages. It dries as I’m mixing but it is 44 degrees C. Both my fault for being on the wrong side of the globe. Thanks again m8!
simon ayton Hey Thanks 🤩, your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
Use less hardener?
Tezzr Terry that didn’t work either. Just ended up spending more time mixing it in and the. There were parts that didn’t harden. I had to scrape it off and go again.
HA - yes - us Australians may not have the cold weather issues Trev was mentioning.
Hi Trev, love your videos. I've seen so many different tools used to sand filler. I have a orbital sander that I use to finish sand woodwork. Is that any good for body filler?
bob wickham give it a go Bob, you could use 80 g to get the basic shape then finish in 180 g. Cheers Trev 👍
After I square the edges of my spreaders, I give it a fast rub on the leg of my blue jeans to give it a nice polished edge. Also, I add a bit of finishing glaze to my filler thus eliminating the need to skim coat for pin holes...time is money, eh?
Hi Trev. Do you not use either a powder guide coat or a light airosol guide coat?. I agree it is amazing what you can sense when you run your hand over a panel. What grade of grit do you use on your long sanders?. Keep up the good work.
majorscope I personally never use a guide coat, just occasionally spray it with panel wipe and look at the reflection. Cheers Trev 👍
"The name is Bondo...James Bondo". Bondo is an American of body filler in case you didn't know. Body filler is talc mixed with polyester resin...same resin as is used in fibreglass. All fillers depend on mechanical grip...a.k.a. grinder marks. I can recommend that the best of all worlds is to buy whatever filler you want...and then mix a small can of polyester glaze, which sands easy, into your filler...then your filler will sand easier and have less pinholes. Also...you can mix in small amounts of fiberglas resin into any body filler you buy, to make it apply smoother. Given that anything with polyester resin needs an oxygen free atmosphere to harden...I also recommend that you take a piece of masking paper and stick it to the filler you apply...then let it harden. When you peel it off you will find that there is no tacky surface to eat up your sandpaper. Of course, you can also use a body file/rasp to take the tacky surface off. Perhaps I should have my own UA-cam channel LOL! Anyway ...cheers from Canada!
Mark Anthony all points raised I’d heard before but I hadn’t appreciated that oxygen stopped the resin from curing 🤩 many thanks. Cheers Trev 👍
@@bobbofly I thought that was gel coat that doesn't cure unless oxygen free?
What grit did you start with on that easy sand filler, tks for your time and the willingness to teach, I'm soaking up as much as I can retain, God bless
I generally start with 80g and finish 180g. Cheers Trev 👍
we can get evercoat in the US, i've never used the "easy sand", but it looks like i need to get some.
portabull Hey Thanks, your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
As a bodyman in a production shop I will admit to abusing ez sand because, well... It just sands so damn easy.
Lemme get this straight. You suggest finish prepping the work área with a 180 grit? Currently, we prep the area with an 80 grit & feather out the edges of course, but all with an 80 grit.
Ok 👍
Hi Trev. Would you recommend filler on bare metal or after epoxy primer? I've watched so many videos and its a little confusing.
Mercedes Maintenance. Filler will stick to steel or sanded epoxy primer well. The benefit of epoxy priming is you can do a long term restoration and epoxy prime as you restore the car and it won’t go rusty before you paint it. You can do all your welding, prime it as you go round then sand it and fill it over the epoxy primer. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks Trev. You have to key the epoxy before painting, correct? Sand paper or scotch Brite pads? From my understanding it dosen't sand well after its cured for a long time. Thank's again Trev, love your videos
Mercedes Maintenance. I just key it with 180g which is the perfect base for feathering and finishing filler. The HB Body epoxy seems to sand fine, I have found other epoxy primers almost rubbery in comparison. Cheers Trev 👍
Hey mate, I haven’t got the time to watch the whole video but I did watch bits so sorry if you answered them during the video.
Can you mix easy sand with a filler with a bit more build to it. I like 3m platinum plus, I just want it to be a bit more runny for doing skim coatings.
And how far does a bottle of the easy sand get you ? Doing a skim like you did on the door, how many panels around the same size could you do with one bottle ? Thanks
Doing a ford galaxie at home .. long flat panels lol! And I’m not a metal finishing expert like you Lol !so just want to do a thin skim to get it straight
I been 3D-Printing applicators at a fraction of the price of new ones.
HHahahahahha makes no sense to anybody in the states! Hahahahha. I have some family in England and I caught some of watcha saying. Hahahahaha. Love it. Thanks again for the tips
You spray epoxy primer over bare steel after metal work then you go on with body fillers?
How would you do it? Genuine question, I'm a beginner to bodywork looking to learn best practice.
Not a PRO here, but this is my understanding...you take your part to bare metal, getting rid of whatever rust etc there is. Use epoxy primer to seal the surface. Then apply your filler and high build primers, and smooth it all out. Then seal again your work, typically with an epoxy. The epoxy is impervious to just about everything, whereas fillers and primers can soak up moisture or solvents that will react with your paint.
@@ronr6450
Sounds good. Incidentally whenever I've tried to use rust conversion type products on bare metal I then have awful issues with getting sufficient adhesion of subsequent primers/paint etc. Don't know if I'm doing something wrong but don't use them anymore for that reason.
I think as long as the prepped base metal is completely sealed from air & moisture - which is where epoxies come into their own for sure - rust shouldn't be an issue going forward.
Famous last words...
@@andrewcheatle4691 be sure to key any epoxy primer before applying filler though as you may have adhesion issues , you do get some time to apply fillers, primers and top coats to epoxy but better to be safe than sorry
Trev as I'm from the Colonies, how much is a quid in American.
Currently 1 dollar 35 cents to the British pound (quid) 👍
It's like your sheetrock mudding, if you e done sheetrock mud then this should be right up a person alley
Trev is ca finished yet ,I need a coffee!
Ray Chambers it’s getting there buddy. Part 20 later this year. Cheers Trev 👍
I take the Trump approach to body filler. Don't know if never used it, I don't recall buying it. That is not a picture of me standing next to it.
When are we going to see the last of the Bedford?
pbysome it greatly depends on a lot of things not just getting it finished. Hopefully later on this year. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog I look forwards to it
Watching your fabrication and problem solving gives me much enjoyment, you bring pragmatism to unattainable and it inspires me to believe my thought processes aren't wrong.
On another point my father owned a brg one of these though I think it was a later model and we went everywhere in it, he put two rover seats in the front and we would fight over who sat in the front with the sliding door open.
He used to make us get under it and wire brush it before a liberal coat of red lead....those where the days lol.
Great, what about a shrinking Disk, lol
HA - have you purchased shares in the EverCoat company BEFORE you published this video Trev? Surely their sales will go up after this video - HA. Interesting re the additive that stops clogging.
I know this may sound like a "What the f,,," ---- But for certain situations I can use a panel file instead of sandpaper to shape filler - yes it requires a certain skill (I started out as a Dental Tech - fine shaping skills required and can shape just about anything with a file) - but then just requires an over the top with very fine sandpaper to finish - does away with deep scratch issues that can arise from using coarse paper to shape filler. Not suitable for all situations and requires clear thought about the direction of the file teeth or you can end up with nasty slices in the filler - but with careful thought and a deft hand - very useful.
Sorry bud never ever use a wax& grease over talc body filler wet acrylic primer that can sand off . Wax&grease could = solvent trap sorry as I like how you put and explain and think your craftsmanship is good
Steve Ridell Thanks for your comment Steve. I get the theory of solvent entrapment but provided the substrate that the degreaser has been sprayed on has had sufficient time to stand and allow for total evaporation this shouldn’t create a problem. The only time I’ve ever witnessed solvent entrapment on filler was when it was coated with multiple heavy coats of primer without leaving flash off time in between coats. Cheers Trev 👍