If the crimp pulls out, you have not formed the crimp correctly, so you either need a different crimp or tool or you are not using the correct wire size for the crimp. Carling switches arre exceedingly cheap, they only are popular because of the price point and the variety of decals, as for the switch, it is really a very poor design and the electricity for some points goes through springs.
Comment 1: hammer 0-8 GA. Crimper = $20 vs ratcheting crimper =$23-35 (~$25 ave) on Amazon. Spend the extra $5 and some come with a large ga. cutting tool.
I would like to see a video of how you made your relay panel but then how to connect the accessories after. Maybe that'd the simplest part but from all the videos I've tried to find on UA-cam they all miss that.
nice video.....circuit breakers ---> never ever go cheap....enerdrive, blue sea systems or similar super quality brands.....plenty of tests on YT showing these amazon, ebay POS circuit breaker not switching according to their ratings....so if you want a fire in your RV or home, then buy the cheap stuff.
How do you deal with relay wiring harnesses? The harnesses I find always have 14 or 12 awg wires and on a 30 amp relay. I don’t feel comfortable running 30 amps on 12awg…
Comment 3. Dielectric grease every connection exposed to air. Prevents the green-meanies. (From a marine tech guy). My motto: build it like it is for a boat. (From a retired DDS guy)
When you talked about the piggy back connectors it was like a light went on. I wondered what they are used for. For the stuff I have done I avoid using crimp connectors.
Comment 2) pairing butt connector leads works best if the thickness of the main wire = the Guage thickness of the paired wire. (For ex... 2 blue size = 1 red, 2 red = 1 yellow. Split the wire mass in half of each wire to be paired and twist the 4 separate wire ends. Use dielectric grease and heat shrink the pair prior to heat shrinking the final connection. As bullet proof as possible... but still not soldered which prob takes less time than 'cheating'
Great video, how many ancillary items would you say to add before thinking about installing a split charger system? Im just starting my overland build.
Thanks! Depends on how yo are going to use the extra equipment, for example this install includes lights that will only likely be used while the engine is running or if not only for a short time so a split charge system isn't necessary However if you are running a fridge and camp lights for a week with out turning a the key then a split charge system is necessary, if your planning an overland build then I would suggest installing a split charge system We have other videos on this subject on the channel if you need more Information
@@OverlandExplorersUKI'm still trying to decide how far I want to take the build. But like you say split charge system it's expensive if im only running small items for short periods. Thanks again, I'll def be back for more videos. 👌🏻
@@182Outdoors Even small items will drain the battery if left on accidentally. IMO it's best to go for a dual battery system even if you only have a few ancillaries. Will most likely find you'll be adding more later.
Hi you seam very up on 12v I’ve got a 12v reducer from my power supply to a diesel heater and I’d like to switch it automatically to a 12v battery if I got a power cut have you got any suggestions please regards John
Sounds like a change over relay would work Connect your heater to the input of the relay and the two separate power sources to the output then use a feed from your power supply to trigger the relay I can't be sure it will work 100% but I would try that first
A few good ideas there thanks. I have been doing wiring on my Defender for some years and I'm still not happy withe result even though. There are two major problems in my experience. Firstly the lack of space so one ends up with mini fuse boxes and relay boxes dotted around the vehicle. Secondly the electrical installation is done incrementally - if one could plan the total installation at the start one could do a much neater job. The worst of my problems is in the battery box where is no decent location for the low voltage cut out and the midi fuse box. There's no really neat solution.
I never use crimped connecters, only soldered ones. Over 40 plus years of off-road in the bush in Australia most failures I have had were crimped, rarely soldered one. Soldered failures were all mechanical damage. 🤓🤓🤓
There seams to be arguments for and against both soldering and crimping. I guess its down to preference, this is why I started using adhesive lined heat shrink to give that extra bit of security
@@OverlandExplorersUK 🤔 I appreciate you are in a temperate to cool climate and plastics and glues last for long periods but where I am and travel it can be over 40 C for two months of the year in tropical conditions. Plastics mostly only last 2 to 3 years before they start to crumble and consequently are a real hassle. For example the white plastic bottles and drums that are common might survive one summer exposed to the sun before you can poke your finger through them. I guess it’s horses for courses. Keep going, you’re going great. Happy New year and have a prosperous 2021. 😎😎😎
hi Mate, great video so thankyou for that. I understand how the relay etc works. Just wondering how or where u get the positive for the switch to activate the relay? Can u piggy back off the constant? U do u have another method? Cheers
If your talking about the 'trigger feed' which will actually trigger the relay it all depends on what you want to happen If you want to be able to turn it on at anytime then take a constant feed into a switch then into the relay If you want it to only be able to be turned on when the keys are in and the ignition is on then you need to find a feed which becomes live then the ignition is on like the standard 12v socket for example
@@OverlandExplorersUK Thanks mate, thats what i figured. I have another question if u dont mind. what is the max amp for 1 accessorie do u use on this method? Id guess looking at wire size etc 10-15amps would be a big as u could go with the terminal strip? if thats the case What do u use for higher amp connections like 50amp anderson plug? Do u just run it through Another Circuit breaker? Thanks again
@@uareslick I can't remember the rating for the terminal strip but I wire everything with 25amp wire unless it requires a higher amp rating but 25amp cover most things these days Any higher then say 35-40amps o would run a dedicated circuit with a mega fuse or one of them circuit breakers if there is room for it. Then simply find a relay that is rated to the current, you can get relays that handle 300+amps
If the crimp pulls out, you have not formed the crimp correctly, so you either need a different crimp or tool or you are not using the correct wire size for the crimp.
Carling switches arre exceedingly cheap, they only are popular because of the price point and the variety of decals, as for the switch, it is really a very poor design and the electricity for some points goes through springs.
Yes correct heat shrink tubing is the best Raychem invented it have you tryed the automotive type with the adhesive inside .
I wouldn’t trust those crimps. Especially on 0 gauge or bigger wiring. Get a hydraulic crimping tool! They are cheap on Amazon
go on then what are those switches!
Comment 1: hammer 0-8 GA. Crimper = $20 vs ratcheting crimper =$23-35 (~$25 ave) on Amazon. Spend the extra $5 and some come with a large ga. cutting tool.
I would like to see a video of how you made your relay panel but then how to connect the accessories after. Maybe that'd the simplest part but from all the videos I've tried to find on UA-cam they all miss that.
nice video.....circuit breakers ---> never ever go cheap....enerdrive, blue sea systems or similar super quality brands.....plenty of tests on YT showing these amazon, ebay POS circuit breaker not switching according to their ratings....so if you want a fire in your RV or home, then buy the cheap stuff.
How do you deal with relay wiring harnesses? The harnesses I find always have 14 or 12 awg wires and on a 30 amp relay. I don’t feel comfortable running 30 amps on 12awg…
Crimp then lightly solder all connections !
The lug indent tools is the worst. I always use a 10 ton hydraulic crimper.
Comment 3. Dielectric grease every connection exposed to air. Prevents the green-meanies. (From a marine tech guy). My motto: build it like it is for a boat. (From a retired DDS guy)
When you talked about the piggy back connectors it was like a light went on.
I wondered what they are used for. For the stuff I have done I avoid using crimp connectors.
Comment 2) pairing butt connector leads works best if the thickness of the main wire = the Guage thickness of the paired wire. (For ex... 2 blue size = 1 red, 2 red = 1 yellow.
Split the wire mass in half of each wire to be paired and twist the 4 separate wire ends. Use dielectric grease and heat shrink the pair prior to heat shrinking the final connection. As bullet proof as possible... but still not soldered which prob takes less time than 'cheating'
a vice grip and a nut work well for crimping if you dont have a crimper.
Let's talk about those marine rocker switch things.
very helpfull thank you for this video
Waffling
Great video, how many ancillary items would you say to add before thinking about installing a split charger system? Im just starting my overland build.
Thanks!
Depends on how yo are going to use the extra equipment, for example this install includes lights that will only likely be used while the engine is running or if not only for a short time so a split charge system isn't necessary
However if you are running a fridge and camp lights for a week with out turning a the key then a split charge system is necessary, if your planning an overland build then I would suggest installing a split charge system
We have other videos on this subject on the channel if you need more Information
@@OverlandExplorersUKI'm still trying to decide how far I want to take the build. But like you say split charge system it's expensive if im only running small items for short periods. Thanks again, I'll def be back for more videos. 👌🏻
@@182Outdoors Even small items will drain the battery if left on accidentally. IMO it's best to go for a dual battery system even if you only have a few ancillaries. Will most likely find you'll be adding more later.
Hi you seam very up on 12v I’ve got a 12v reducer from my power supply to a diesel heater and I’d like to switch it automatically to a 12v battery if I got a power cut have you got any suggestions please regards John
Sounds like a change over relay would work
Connect your heater to the input of the relay and the two separate power sources to the output then use a feed from your power supply to trigger the relay
I can't be sure it will work 100% but I would try that first
Ummm ahh umm…
A few good ideas there thanks. I have been doing wiring on my Defender for some years and I'm still not happy withe result even though.
There are two major problems in my experience. Firstly the lack of space so one ends up with mini fuse boxes and relay boxes dotted around the vehicle. Secondly the electrical installation is done incrementally - if one could plan the total installation at the start one could do a much neater job.
The worst of my problems is in the battery box where is no decent location for the low voltage cut out and the midi fuse box. There's no really neat solution.
Well...... that was a waste of time...
I never use crimped connecters, only soldered ones. Over 40 plus years of off-road in the bush in Australia most failures I have had were crimped, rarely soldered one. Soldered failures were all mechanical damage. 🤓🤓🤓
There seams to be arguments for and against both soldering and crimping. I guess its down to preference, this is why I started using adhesive lined heat shrink to give that extra bit of security
@@OverlandExplorersUK 🤔 I appreciate you are in a temperate to cool climate and plastics and glues last for long periods but where I am and travel it can be over 40 C for two months of the year in tropical conditions. Plastics mostly only last 2 to 3 years before they start to crumble and consequently are a real hassle. For example the white plastic bottles and drums that are common might survive one summer exposed to the sun before you can poke your finger through them. I guess it’s horses for courses. Keep going, you’re going great. Happy New year and have a prosperous 2021. 😎😎😎
How to avoid wire overload???
I spliced one 12v cable to two others 12v and my fuse blown!!!
Don't splice into an existing circuit, create a new one by wiring to the battery with a fuse etc
@@OverlandExplorersUK can I use an fuse piggyback to do so?? Is it safe??? Thanks for the reply although it's a old video👍👍👍
informative.. thanks
hi Mate, great video so thankyou for that. I understand how the relay etc works. Just wondering how or where u get the positive for the switch to activate the relay? Can u piggy back off the constant? U do u have another method? Cheers
If your talking about the 'trigger feed' which will actually trigger the relay it all depends on what you want to happen
If you want to be able to turn it on at anytime then take a constant feed into a switch then into the relay
If you want it to only be able to be turned on when the keys are in and the ignition is on then you need to find a feed which becomes live then the ignition is on like the standard 12v socket for example
@@OverlandExplorersUK Thanks mate, thats what i figured.
I have another question if u dont mind. what is the max amp for 1 accessorie do u use on this method? Id guess looking at wire size etc 10-15amps would be a big as u could go with the terminal strip? if thats the case What do u use for higher amp connections like 50amp anderson plug? Do u just run it through Another Circuit breaker?
Thanks again
@@uareslick I can't remember the rating for the terminal strip but I wire everything with 25amp wire unless it requires a higher amp rating but 25amp cover most things these days
Any higher then say 35-40amps o would run a dedicated circuit with a mega fuse or one of them circuit breakers if there is room for it. Then simply find a relay that is rated to the current, you can get relays that handle 300+amps
Great video- thank you!
I thought you in the U.K. had 6V
Nope, its ethier 12v or 24v in the uk