I bought one of these 5 gang power hubs for my camper van and was a bit confused about how everything wired in properly. I watched your video and replicated every single aspect on your video all the way down to the isolation switch. Everything is working 100%. I would just like to say that this video is Brilliant and you made my job a hell of a lot easier by the way you explained everything to me. Thank you so much for this video….👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Exactly what PBS#007 said. Don't be worried about if you bore people. People won't watch the video if they think you're boring. Excellent video! Keep them coming please bud 👌🤙
Follow up: I was doing what you showed and I thought I only needed 2 spare switches. So I took the 12 v meter positive wire from the meter and pulled it off and took the #6 switch fuse wire and attached to the positive lead on meter and it worked. So i did the same procedure for the USB and it worked. Beings the 12v utility socket isn't alive till you plug something in I left it alone. If you didn't make your video I would have never thought of any of this. Thanks again, Mike.
You do the same as he done in the video but instead of adding the extra switch you just do it on to one of the switchs on the panel I didn’t use a fuse as there is already one on the switch
echoing the comments below really, thanks for posting this video! when searching this topic, many videos show how to poke wires through holes 🤦.. not helpful! For a novice like me, your video is so helpful. To the point, spelling out what might be obvious to some, not me. thanks.
Surprised the switch panel doesn't come with a block like that to connect the negatives coming from your loads, so glad I found this video! Awesome job explaining it!
You made this look easy and easy to understand maybe do another explaining what size fuses and how to work what size fuse you need for ie watts divided by volts equals amps
If you want to use one of the switches as a master switch: On the switch where the power comes in (far right most) there's a positive and negative lead that would go to a battery (or the way mark set it up, an additional master switch). I figured, since there's already five switches there let's use one of them as the master. It will be the one where the power comes in. The top wire is the ground (black), middle wire is load (what will go to whatever you're powering up) and the bottom one is the positive in. When you turn on the switch, it takes the power from the bottom connector and sends it to the middle connector. So to make that switch a master switch that turns off the power to the rest of the switches (and volt meter and USB plug) so you don't just have a phantom load, you just reverse the middle and bottom wires from how they came from the factory ON THE FIRST SWITCH ONLY. So you'll notice that the bottom connectors are all chained together. What you want to do is make it so the "load" from the first switch sends power to the rest of them. Disconnect the bottom and middle connectors (of the first switch only!), connect what was connected to the bottom connector to the middle connector instead. Then take the one you disconnected from the middle switch and connect it to the bottom connector, and that will go to your battery (and it comes with a fuse built in! - might want to upgrade it to a 30A as all the other loads are going to go through this switch now). Now when you turn on the first (far right) switch, it will send power on to the rest of the switches.
Hey man, I saw your long explanation on how to make a master switch and thought it was so advanced that you might know the answer to my other question ! The negative wire on this switch board is really thin, right ? It's less than awg 16 probably (which I think the red wires are). First of all, is that not strange, and second of all, is that not limiting the amount of amps you should run through this board ? I had a 50W fridge and 85W laptop charger plus a few USB extras, now from my (noobish) calculatjons it seems like this small baby negative wire isn't even made to handle that! What do you think ? Thanks 😲
@@meyqool you are correct to worry, these switches will take up to 35amps each, the wiring supplied is no where near any good for that, if you use relays the switch panel will only be switching the relay (less than 1 amp), the advice given is poor if you intend to use high current devices, you are likely to start a fire. Use the correct gauge wiring for the current you need and that is where relays come in to it, even if you put 20amps through these switches it won't take long for them to burn out
@@Alton-x Thanks for the reply ! It worked so far with a 50W fridge, 85W laptop and charge phone, tested over several months. But yeah I am not happy with this doomed black wire they provide in it, which seems like a pain to change, and I am not advanced enough to understand the wiring you describe 🤪
You couldn't have illustrated this any better! I took delivery of my panel today, took it out of the box and had no idea what was going on 🤣 You, my friend, have just saved me a whole lot of confusion and swearing. Thanks!
Brilliant! I just purchased an older conversion van and the 4 gang switch panel controlling lights throughout the van is a bit worse for wear. I will be replacing the panel with a 4 gang version of the panel you wired in this video. Your explanation has saved me a tremendous amount of searching for an original wiring diagram for this older vehicle. I am now confident I can install the new switch without starting a fire or shorting out the electrical system! Thanks, mate!
I had a go with using one of the switches to control power to the voltmeter. Here is how I did it: ua-cam.com/video/NTErvErgJEE/v-deo.html. To isolate the whole panel, extend that concept by having the rest of the power coming from the first switch load.
Like many below I am not an electrician , you explain how and straight easy terms I was wondering how the negetive was going to work , now I do well done KP
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. As most people said, it is very helpful. I would like to ask few questions if you allow me. Note: As I have no experience with electricity, some of them may not make sense at all. 1. What is the role of the additional in-line fuse you added near the extra switch, as each switch on the panel has its own fuse? 2. What cable size would you recommend to connect the battery to the panel? 3. I have read somewhere that car accessories do not need to be connected to negative. Instead, I could ground them to the vehicle. Is that true? 4. I am not planning on using it for heavy stuff, only led lights, so I assume I do not need to upgrade any wires or fuses. What specification should I look for to make sure it will not exceed the capacity? Many Thanks
You sir are a legend hats off to you explaining it so easy. And its neater than fuse box and can have it where u want it in van makes it nice looking and in back can just have solar set up. The isolation button a must ie when not in use.
Straight forward and simple, great, could you update with a newer version of the negative plastic wiring block though. ? Someone mentioned another method (a post ?)
Outstanding video! Really struggled to understand my antique bass boat renovation wiring to include this same panel ! Very clear, I’ve got a control panel antique now! Very clear, easy to understand video ! Thanks so much! Incredibly helpful! Well done Sir !! This WORKS FINE !!
Very helpful thank you Mark. The online fuse to the battery. Is that calculated depending on the max load if every appliance was turned on through the control panel.
I've just come across this excellent useful video. Does it not matter which side of the negative block you put the sequential wires as you placed them on the opposite side of the block to where the negative comes in from the battery, or that is what it looked like to me?
Brialliant video, exactly what I was looking for, quick question, could you not have used one of the switches on the panel as the isolator ? To provide power to the whole panel like you’ve done with the 3 way
This is outstanding i was trying to figure out the approach to setting up to battery and i would have totally missed that it remains live until done. This video also shows that a panel like this would be better if a power toggle switch to battery was already on this panel. This shows you're still better off buying the isolation switch and connector as well as block connector for negative. Thanks for links that also helps. 👍👍👍👍👋👋👋
Great video, really helpful! Could you advise exactly where I would add one of those small battery level monitors? Between the battery and rocker switch? Or between the rocker switch and the switch panel?
Thanks Mark, this was just what i was looking for. an easy to understand video for someone who has no idea about wiring. Like Gordon, i have just picked up an old camper van and the wiring is non existent of lethal! so I'm starting again. thanks for the video and a pointer in the right direction.
My problem with your switch is depending on how many amps you're pulling through the switch could overload the switch itself and cause it to burn out. My suggestion is get a relay and wire it in so the load is not a the power switch but on the switches in the control panel. I believe your switch is rated at 5amp.
Great video!! Thanks. Quick question?? How does the leisure battery charge? As I’m connecting my leisure battery to my campervan starter battery…does the rocker switch isolate the charge from the starter battery? Thanks
my leisure batteries are charged via one 100w solar panel if i want to isolate my battery i would use a 30amp isolating switch plus the only time i would link my starter battery to my leisure battery is via a split relay so keeping my starter battery safe hope this helps
I had in mind to do better battery connections for my telescope setup, but I had doubts because it's my first DIY project for me, but your explanations gave me the confidence to go with it and ... it worked ! :D Thank you for the video!
I like how you keep things simple. I'm yet to do this. Have you done a blog on wiring up start to finish? It's great that you get to the point. Keep them coming. Thank you very much 😊
Very well explained. This switch set is only for lights, nothing else? You said you used 1.5v lighting cable. What size amperage are the fuses? They should be lower, right? I think it would be good if you did a video about cables, fuses and amperage. Cheers!
I've always hated electrics, always struggled with them in my previous camper...this is a gem, cheers ! I've successfully wired in my switch panel to 10 LEDs, 1 strip light and some fairy lights....
Nice one Iv got to wire up 3 car gauges live and earth to the live cigarette lighter so if I piggyback both live and earth this way will I get the same volts even power to each gauge
Great video Mark. I have got the same panel for my van. My worry is that the LCD, USB and Cig all power off 1 daisy chain feed and therefore 1 fuse (in my case I'm connecting this to a fuse box) but they all draw different power. Wondering if wiring them individually to my fuse box is a safer option
Hi Mark great video but the van I've brought has 6 led ceilings lights with one cable coming out the roof so do I connect one live and one neutral to the block ?
Thanks from me too. I have this panel in my van already but needed the method of connecting a new device clarified which you did perfectly. Appreciate the assist,
Can you use a bus bar instead of a connector block or are they basically the same thing a little confused of which is better thank you great video by the way
i have the same control box, i swapped the wires around on the back so the the middle switch is for the incoming power, so that switches it all on or off.
I had the same idea but remember that the master switch must be capable of feeding all the other switch circuits, I think that the switches are capable of carrying approx 15A.
Thank you so much! I was wondering if the switch company was expecting me to attach 6 ground wires from devices to the one ground wire on the panel...seemed a bit weird. Thank you!
Could I use a wago lever nut to connect all of the negatives and then connect that one negative from there back to one negative terminal on my 12v panel?
They do, 4-5 prong switches have switch and device negative prongs, you can save wire grounding to metal, I run relays so the switch is just a positive interrupter grounded in the cab of my 4x4
This was the best video on how to wire up a rocker panel!! One question.... is it possible to make one of the rocker switch the MAIN... so that it would turn all the other switches on and off?
Hi mark. Instead of installing a individual switch to power the whole unit on and off could you of not used one of the switch’s already in the gang unit itself?
Hey Mark i have a 6 gang switch in my boat and use the top left as "power on/accessories". basically master power switch for the other 5 switches, this helps when regularly using boat i dont have to turn the battery isolate off
David Carter does that mean 1 switch is dedicated to cutting the power from the battery .So when you flip that switch everything in that ganged switch Box is dead ?
This is connected to the leisure battery so either it is isolated from the main battery and they will just return to the negative on the leisure battery, or the leisure batter is connected to the main battery, in which case it is grounded to the chassis
Does the negative wire also look like 16AWG or even 18 on yours ? The red wires seem like 16, and the black one seems even smaller, is it the same on yours, and is that safe to plug a 50W fridge and a laptop or a few other things ?! I see on your installation you go with a maybe 14AWG to the battery, but then we get screwed on the board with some 16 or even 18 AWG ?!!
Hi there! I just wanted to reach out and let you know that I loved your video, thank you so much! I learned a lot from it, especially as a first-time boat owner with limited electrical knowledge. The video was a tremendous help. However, I had a question regarding the switch that you mentioned in the video. Is that switch connected using an SAE connector to an O ring? I didn't quite grasp that concept and would appreciate some clarification on how it works and connect the cables Once again, thank you for creating such an informative video. It's been incredibly valuable to me as I navigate my new role as a boat owner.
Regarding those 15amp fuses that are already on each of the five switches: Are they to be replaced with fuses suitable for whatever appliance you are connecting? Or must the 15amp ones remain there to protect the cable? I have the same switch panel but do not know what current rating the cables are. Thank you 🙏
Thank you for the video. I have ordered the same one for my van and was thinking to do it a bit differently: I will remove the plus arriving on the volt meter and the usb and instead use the load of the first switch on the panel.
Nice video Mark. will certainly help me when im creating an Aux 12V system for my camper van. Just a comment though, perhaps you could have used one of the 5 switches to isolate the board instead of adding a separate rocker switch? Ofcourse you would loose a switch for accessories but would make for a cleaner setup.
Hi Mark, great vid very helpful. Am I ok to run 16awg (1.5mm) cable straight off the leisure battery through a fuse (what fuse?) to the control panel? Unsure how thick / safe different size cable would be?
Mark, thanks for the brilliant video. Can i hook up my 12v fridge to the panel and If so what amps fuse would i need?i can’t get over it you’ve added to my knowledge bank. Yay. Thanks
get the same switch panel today but with green LED‘s 😁 thanks for helping me how to do it the right way and not like the most times like may way 😜 cause that takes more time and some flashes to my fingers 😂
This is the most comprehensive video I've come across on this topic. Thank you! I am doing a similar setup but going through a solenoid. Now I dont know what to do about the ground because it's on the chassis off the solenoid. In this video you go straight from the battery. Would I just connect a second ground off the solenoid that goes straight to the accessories like you did here?
@@MrMeltedwellies l followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly, before I watching your presentation I thought l had a faulty pump and tap having said that l was wrong You saved the day Thanks, so much, keep up the good work kind regards Terry
Thanks for the video. You have confirmed for me that my first attempt at wiring up my van is correct. I must be some kind of genius. Although I'm wondering what Amp connector block id need for my negative? Is it the mac ampage of all appliances combined or the mac ampage of the highest use appliance? Thanks
Great video, very helpful. just finsished wiring mine in the van to the leisure battery but I only have 4 volts coming to the switch panel and the leisure battery is reading a steady 12.3 volts. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Mark, Thank you for this. Very Helpful! I'm wondering if there is a way to use one of the rocker switches on the switch panel as the activation switch as opposed to adding the additional isolation switch that you added
I bought one of these 5 gang power hubs for my camper van and was a bit confused about how everything wired in properly. I watched your video and replicated every single aspect on your video all the way down to the isolation switch. Everything is working 100%. I would just like to say that this video is Brilliant and you made my job a hell of a lot easier by the way you explained everything to me. Thank you so much for this video….👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thank you Richie
Because you took the time to explain the wiring, that makes this video a great video, that is why people watch these videos thanks.
I appreciate that thanks
Exactly what PBS#007 said. Don't be worried about if you bore people. People won't watch the video if they think you're boring. Excellent video! Keep them coming please bud 👌🤙
What gauge wire do you use? @@MrMeltedwellies
Follow up: I was doing what you showed and I thought I only needed 2 spare switches. So I took the 12 v meter positive wire from the meter and pulled it off and took the #6 switch fuse wire and attached to the positive lead on meter and it worked. So i did the same procedure for the USB and it worked. Beings the 12v utility socket isn't alive till you plug something in I left it alone. If you didn't make your video I would have never thought of any of this. Thanks again, Mike.
Mike you are so welcome thanks for watching
Nice and simple. Tells us the basics without either patronising or assuming we know more than we do, really helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful Andy
Wow! Finally instructions in layman’s terms. Well done pal this is a great help for a novice like me. 👍
I never write on these things but compelled to with this ,excellent ,simple and concise. I understood it completely,well done !
I just made one of the switches on the panel a off/on switch to power it instead of running a separate switch works great
Did you run it off a relay or just an inline fuse to a switch to the panel?
How
You do the same as he done in the video but instead of adding the extra switch you just do it on to one of the switchs on the panel I didn’t use a fuse as there is already one on the switch
Same,, works fine
I was wondering why he didn’t do that.
echoing the comments below really, thanks for posting this video! when searching this topic, many videos show how to poke wires through holes 🤦.. not helpful! For a novice like me, your video is so helpful. To the point, spelling out what might be obvious to some, not me. thanks.
Surprised the switch panel doesn't come with a block like that to connect the negatives coming from your loads, so glad I found this video! Awesome job explaining it!
You made this look easy and easy to understand maybe do another explaining what size fuses and how to work what size fuse you need for ie watts divided by volts equals amps
If you want to use one of the switches as a master switch: On the switch where the power comes in (far right most) there's a positive and negative lead that would go to a battery (or the way mark set it up, an additional master switch). I figured, since there's already five switches there let's use one of them as the master. It will be the one where the power comes in. The top wire is the ground (black), middle wire is load (what will go to whatever you're powering up) and the bottom one is the positive in. When you turn on the switch, it takes the power from the bottom connector and sends it to the middle connector. So to make that switch a master switch that turns off the power to the rest of the switches (and volt meter and USB plug) so you don't just have a phantom load, you just reverse the middle and bottom wires from how they came from the factory ON THE FIRST SWITCH ONLY. So you'll notice that the bottom connectors are all chained together. What you want to do is make it so the "load" from the first switch sends power to the rest of them. Disconnect the bottom and middle connectors (of the first switch only!), connect what was connected to the bottom connector to the middle connector instead. Then take the one you disconnected from the middle switch and connect it to the bottom connector, and that will go to your battery (and it comes with a fuse built in! - might want to upgrade it to a 30A as all the other loads are going to go through this switch now). Now when you turn on the first (far right) switch, it will send power on to the rest of the switches.
Hey man, I saw your long explanation on how to make a master switch and thought it was so advanced that you might know the answer to my other question ! The negative wire on this switch board is really thin, right ? It's less than awg 16 probably (which I think the red wires are). First of all, is that not strange, and second of all, is that not limiting the amount of amps you should run through this board ? I had a 50W fridge and 85W laptop charger plus a few USB extras, now from my (noobish) calculatjons it seems like this small baby negative wire isn't even made to handle that! What do you think ? Thanks 😲
@@meyqool you are correct to worry, these switches will take up to 35amps each, the wiring supplied is no where near any good for that, if you use relays the switch panel will only be switching the relay (less than 1 amp), the advice given is poor if you intend to use high current devices, you are likely to start a fire. Use the correct gauge wiring for the current you need and that is where relays come in to it, even if you put 20amps through these switches it won't take long for them to burn out
@@Alton-x Thanks for the reply ! It worked so far with a 50W fridge, 85W laptop and charge phone, tested over several months. But yeah I am not happy with this doomed black wire they provide in it, which seems like a pain to change, and I am not advanced enough to understand the wiring you describe 🤪
@@meyqool to work out current draw, amps = watts ÷ volts (Google Watts law, very simple maths) 85w ÷12v = 7amps
Hi, I noticed how old this video is but it was exactly what I was after! Thanks for taking the time to upload, super helpful 😁👍
You're so welcome!
Very helpful. So many confusing 😕 videos on UA-cam on this subject. To the point and simple to follow. Thankyou
This was so helpful. I couldn't figure out what to connect all the negative wires from my lights to to complete the circuit. Thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
You couldn't have illustrated this any better!
I took delivery of my panel today, took it out of the box and had no idea what was going on 🤣
You, my friend, have just saved me a whole lot of confusion and swearing.
Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Brilliant! I just purchased an older conversion van and the 4 gang switch panel controlling lights throughout the van is a bit worse for wear. I will be replacing the panel with a 4 gang version of the panel you wired in this video. Your explanation has saved me a tremendous amount of searching for an original wiring diagram for this older vehicle. I am now confident I can install the new switch without starting a fire or shorting out the electrical system! Thanks, mate!
Thanks for watching Gordon
Mark, could you please show us how you would use the 1st switch as the power on/off switch, video is great, very simple to follow, thanks.
got a new video coming this weekend
Are you asking if it's possible to make one of the switches an isolation switch for the panel?
This would be ideal
I had a go with using one of the switches to control power to the voltmeter. Here is how I did it: ua-cam.com/video/NTErvErgJEE/v-deo.html. To isolate the whole panel, extend that concept by having the rest of the power coming from the first switch load.
Very nice instructional video. Thorough explanation without being too technical....Cheers
Like many below I am not an electrician , you explain how and straight easy terms I was wondering how the negetive was going to work , now I do well done KP
This completely helped me understand how to install this panel and how to utilize the bus bar. Excellent tutorial. Thank you
Glad it helped
thank you so much ,,I bought exactly this ,,saw the positive wires and thought ive been ripped off ,,,thank you for helping one dumb lad ❤👍👍👍
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. As most people said, it is very helpful. I would like to ask few questions if you allow me. Note: As I have no experience with electricity, some of them may not make sense at all.
1. What is the role of the additional in-line fuse you added near the extra switch, as each switch on the panel has its own fuse?
2. What cable size would you recommend to connect the battery to the panel?
3. I have read somewhere that car accessories do not need to be connected to negative. Instead, I could ground them to the vehicle. Is that true?
4. I am not planning on using it for heavy stuff, only led lights, so I assume I do not need to upgrade any wires or fuses. What specification should I look for to make sure it will not exceed the capacity?
Many Thanks
Brilliant made it so easy, no technical jargon,, just straight forward 👍👍👍👍
Nice little control panel, just got the same type. Another option for - wires is to run them to a post. Saves a bit of wiring on the plastic block.
You sir are a legend hats off to you explaining it so easy. And its neater than fuse box and can have it where u want it in van makes it nice looking and in back can just have solar set up. The isolation button a must ie when not in use.
Great video but instead of using a block for your negative could you not just connect all the black wires to a busbar?
I used a block for the negative.
This is great! Making a truck camper and trying to figure out electrical,, Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Straight forward and simple, great, could you update with a newer version of the negative plastic wiring block though. ?
Someone mentioned another method (a post ?)
will do
Outstanding video! Really struggled to understand my antique bass boat renovation wiring to include this same panel ! Very clear, I’ve got a control panel antique now! Very clear, easy to understand video ! Thanks so much! Incredibly helpful! Well done Sir !! This WORKS FINE !!
Glad you liked it Dennis
Very helpful thank you Mark. The online fuse to the battery. Is that calculated depending on the max load if every appliance was turned on through the control panel.
yep
Thanks for this! I’m about to rewrite my T5 camper. Previous wiring was done really badly! Not one fuse to be seen!! Thank you again
No problem 👍 Rebecca
Thanks for this simple instruction, instead of the negative block can I just use a blade fuse holder?
I've just come across this excellent useful video. Does it not matter which side of the negative block you put the sequential wires as you placed them on the opposite side of the block to where the negative comes in from the battery, or that is what it looked like to me?
Brialliant video, exactly what I was looking for, quick question, could you not have used one of the switches on the panel as the isolator ? To provide power to the whole panel like you’ve done with the 3 way
Outstanding.... I finally understand connector boxes and bus bars properly..... thankyou, that was the perfect demo for what I needed
This is outstanding i was trying to figure out the approach to setting up to battery and i would have totally missed that it remains live until done. This video also shows that a panel like this would be better if a power toggle switch to battery was already on this panel. This shows you're still better off buying the isolation switch and connector as well as block connector for negative. Thanks for links that also helps. 👍👍👍👍👋👋👋
Thanks Vince
Wago connector blocks will be much quicker and easier for connecting all the negatives together. Just a thought.
That's what he did didn't he ?
Great video, really helpful! Could you advise exactly where I would add one of those small battery level monitors? Between the battery and rocker switch? Or between the rocker switch and the switch panel?
Thanks Mark, this was just what i was looking for. an easy to understand video for someone who has no idea about wiring. Like Gordon, i have just picked up an old camper van and the wiring is non existent of lethal! so I'm starting again. thanks for the video and a pointer in the right direction.
My problem with your switch is depending on how many amps you're pulling through the switch could overload the switch itself and cause it to burn out. My suggestion is get a relay and wire it in so the load is not a the power switch but on the switches in the control panel. I believe your switch is rated at 5amp.
This is well explained, and without any type of music in the background.
Great video!! Thanks. Quick question?? How does the leisure battery charge? As I’m connecting my leisure battery to my campervan starter battery…does the rocker switch isolate the charge from the starter battery? Thanks
my leisure batteries are charged via one 100w solar panel if i want to isolate my battery i would use a 30amp isolating switch plus the only time i would link my starter battery to my leisure battery is via a split relay so keeping my starter battery safe hope this helps
I had in mind to do better battery connections for my telescope setup, but I had doubts because it's my first DIY project for me, but your explanations gave me the confidence to go with it and ... it worked ! :D
Thank you for the video!
Brilliant, thank you. Just bought one of these to build a solar trailer setup and the clarity of your explanation really helped. Cheers! Mick.
Extremely helpful. I didn't know how to ground all of my wires. Great video.
Instaling this same panel in my van next week great vid well explained feel more confident after watching thankyou
I like how you keep things simple. I'm yet to do this. Have you done a blog on wiring up start to finish?
It's great that you get to the point. Keep them coming. Thank you very much 😊
Very well explained. This switch set is only for lights, nothing else? You said you used 1.5v lighting cable. What size amperage are the fuses? They should be lower, right? I think it would be good if you did a video about cables, fuses and amperage. Cheers!
Really helpful , shed loads of light on it for me and answered all my questions ! Top fella !
Glad it helped
I've always hated electrics, always struggled with them in my previous camper...this is a gem, cheers ! I've successfully wired in my switch panel to 10 LEDs, 1 strip light and some fairy lights....
Nice one Iv got to wire up 3 car gauges live and earth to the live cigarette lighter so if I piggyback both live and earth this way will I get the same volts even power to each gauge
Thanks mate. This really helped with understanding how to wiring this up and wiring in general. Appreciate the help
Glad it helped
Great video. Just one question can the connector block be replaced for a bus bar? I think it would be easier to install. Maybe I'm wrong.
defo
Great helpful video.... But what are the black wires on the back of the switch panel? That confuses me.
Great video Mark. I have got the same panel for my van. My worry is that the LCD, USB and Cig all power off 1 daisy chain feed and therefore 1 fuse (in my case I'm connecting this to a fuse box) but they all draw different power. Wondering if wiring them individually to my fuse box is a safer option
Hi Mark great video but the van I've brought has 6 led ceilings lights with one cable coming out the roof so do I connect one live and one neutral to the block ?
yes
thanks for the very helpful video, can you share the link where you purchased the connection block
Brilliant. Just bought this exact gang panel and this was the perfect explanation, many thanks
Glad it helped Matt
What sort of things can you wire to these plz
Probably could have used a bus bar instead of a terminal block for the negative side, but good to see all all the same. Nice video Mark.
Thanks 👍 just boughtt a bus bar so ill give it a go
@@MrMeltedwellies so with the bus bar there would be no reason to loop those wires? Correct? Just connect negative from load?
For the negative block you've added, I'm guessing a bus bar would do the same thing? But you wouldn't have to do the loop wiring for the negatives?
yes i got one later
Hey Mark great video, where did you buy the push connector from? I can't find any similar to yours. A link would be even more helpful! Cheers
ebay Dan
Thanks from me too. I have this panel in my van already but needed the method of connecting a new device clarified which you did perfectly. Appreciate the assist,
You're welcome!
Can you use a bus bar instead of a connector block or are they basically the same thing a little confused of which is better thank you great video by the way
i have the same control box, i swapped the wires around on the back so the the middle switch is for the incoming power, so that switches it all on or off.
Paul Compton PDphotography GREAT idea!
I had the same idea but remember that the master switch must be capable of feeding all the other switch circuits, I think that the switches are capable of carrying approx 15A.
Thank you so much! I was wondering if the switch company was expecting me to attach 6 ground wires from devices to the one ground wire on the panel...seemed a bit weird. Thank you!
Perfect explanation!!
Just rewired my boat with everything you explained.. love it 👍🏼👍🏼
Could I use a wago lever nut to connect all of the negatives and then connect that one negative from there back to one negative terminal on my 12v panel?
Fantastic. I have the same type of panel you have and "Now" it all makes sense, Thanks so much and I also downloaded your video.
You're welcome Michael
Brilliant clip, I have this panel, and plan to wire in various 'off grid' electrics in my Land Rover. Perfect clip for a beginner like myself.
They do, 4-5 prong switches have switch and device negative prongs, you can save wire grounding to metal, I run relays so the switch is just a positive interrupter grounded in the cab of my 4x4
This was the best video on how to wire up a rocker panel!! One question.... is it possible to make one of the rocker switch the MAIN... so that it would turn all the other switches on and off?
Hi mark. Instead of installing a individual switch to power the whole unit on and off could you of not used one of the switch’s already in the gang unit itself?
Great video. Thanks for the instructions. You have given me the confidence to giving this a go.
Hey Mark i have a 6 gang switch in my boat and use the top left as "power on/accessories". basically master power switch for the other 5 switches, this helps when regularly using boat i dont have to turn the battery isolate off
David Carter does that mean 1 switch is dedicated to cutting the power from the battery .So when you flip that switch everything in that ganged switch Box is dead ?
@@christiangladu Yes that correct just like the main breaker on a house switchboard panel
@David Carter, do you have a diagram on how you did this and which brand of 6 gang switch?
@David Carter how did you make one of the switches the master switch? I have this exact switch panel for my boat.
Best video of this nature I've seen, and as I'm sure you're aware how this works, I've seen many!
amazing thanks. would you not then need to earth the negative block to your vehicle chassis some how?
This is connected to the leisure battery so either it is isolated from the main battery and they will just return to the negative on the leisure battery, or the leisure batter is connected to the main battery, in which case it is grounded to the chassis
Hi mate what cable dod you use to for wiring the power switch up please
Does the negative wire also look like 16AWG or even 18 on yours ? The red wires seem like 16, and the black one seems even smaller, is it the same on yours, and is that safe to plug a 50W fridge and a laptop or a few other things ?! I see on your installation you go with a maybe 14AWG to the battery, but then we get screwed on the board with some 16 or even 18 AWG ?!!
That was great. I’m not clear as to why the connector block was necessary.
Thank you for sharing this. Greetings from Romania, you saved my day!
You're welcome!
Thanks for sharing just fitting one in my camper van and was wondering how to earth everything just the ticket nicely explained 👍
Glad it was helpful Bob
Hei mark! Thanks really helpfull video!
Is it safe to connect two different size wire has you did? Thanks again.
Hi there! I just wanted to reach out and let you know that I loved your video, thank you so much! I learned a lot from it, especially as a first-time boat owner with limited electrical knowledge. The video was a tremendous help.
However, I had a question regarding the switch that you mentioned in the video. Is that switch connected using an SAE connector to an O ring? I didn't quite grasp that concept and would appreciate some clarification on how it works and connect the cables
Once again, thank you for creating such an informative video. It's been incredibly valuable to me as I navigate my new role as a boat owner.
this might explain it better then me typing a load of waffle thank you for your comment and watching ATB Mark
ua-cam.com/video/wpnqvNS5jqg/v-deo.html
can you connect the usb, volt meter and 12v socket together and connect it to one of the switches so you don't have to install an extra switch?
Hi great video, the plug from the battery to the panel before the fuse do you have a link as I'm struggling to find one online.
Hi Mark great video but can I ask what size cable you used from your leisure battery ? Thanks
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143681257494?var=442666885406 1.5 mm 21amp
Great video! Very helpful. Question: What is the push connector you used at 3:17 to snap the power on and off and where can I find it? Thank you!
Perfect. Thanks. Wired my van up with confidence
Glad it helped
Regarding those 15amp fuses that are already on each of the five switches: Are they to be replaced with fuses suitable for whatever appliance you are connecting? Or must the 15amp ones remain there to protect the cable? I have the same switch panel but do not know what current rating the cables are.
Thank you 🙏
YES DEFO
Perfect man! Just what I was looking for. Cheers!
Thank you for the video. I have ordered the same one for my van and was thinking to do it a bit differently: I will remove the plus arriving on the volt meter and the usb and instead use the load of the first switch on the panel.
Thanks for that tip. I did exactly that and now I can control the power to the volt meter with a switch on the panel.
Nice video Mark. will certainly help me when im creating an Aux 12V system for my camper van. Just a comment though, perhaps you could have used one of the 5 switches to isolate the board instead of adding a separate rocker switch? Ofcourse you would loose a switch for accessories but would make for a cleaner setup.
Thanks for the info! Steven thanks for watching
Hi Mark, great vid very helpful. Am I ok to run 16awg (1.5mm) cable straight off the leisure battery through a fuse (what fuse?) to the control panel? Unsure how thick / safe different size cable would be?
Mark, thanks for the brilliant video. Can i hook up my 12v fridge to the panel and If so what amps fuse would i need?i can’t get over it you’ve added to my knowledge bank. Yay. Thanks
yep i would use 15 amp fuse and thanks for watching Gulam
get the same switch panel today but with green LED‘s 😁 thanks for helping me how to do it the right way and not like the most times like may way 😜 cause that takes more time and some flashes to my fingers 😂
This is the most comprehensive video I've come across on this topic. Thank you! I am doing a similar setup but going through a solenoid. Now I dont know what to do about the ground because it's on the chassis off the solenoid. In this video you go straight from the battery. Would I just connect a second ground off the solenoid that goes straight to the accessories like you did here?
did this work? I was thinking the same thing
Want to give you a round of applause for doing this... Well done Mark!
Extremely well presented kind regards Terry
Thank you Terry
@@MrMeltedwellies l followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly, before I watching your presentation I thought l had a faulty pump and tap having said that l was wrong You saved the day Thanks, so much, keep up the good work kind regards Terry
Thanks for the video. You have confirmed for me that my first attempt at wiring up my van is correct. I must be some kind of genius. Although I'm wondering what Amp connector block id need for my negative? Is it the mac ampage of all appliances combined or the mac ampage of the highest use appliance? Thanks
Great video, very helpful. just finsished wiring mine in the van to the leisure battery but I only have 4 volts coming to the switch panel and the leisure battery is reading a steady 12.3 volts. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Mark, Thank you for this. Very Helpful! I'm wondering if there is a way to use one of the rocker switches on the switch panel as the activation switch as opposed to adding the additional isolation switch that you added
yep should be fine
@@MrMeltedwellies thanks I just asked about this and hadn't read the replies. thanks for the great video