Thanks Henry for your time and question. To be honest, this is tough one and I still have yet to fully investigate. Very few people (not saying you) don’t know the difference between the composite RGB and Luminosity histogram as they are both white and look similar. What doesn’t help the situation, is that most call the RGB histograms (plural), three separate channels, the RGB histogram (singular), that’s why I distinguish between RGB and colour histogram. So when I say RGB, I’m talking about a composite Histogram, like the RGB histogram found in photoshop. The RGB histogram displays the combined value of Red, Green and Blue of each pixel instead of looking at each channel separately, like the Colour histogram. The Luminosity histogram is also white looking, but is very different in the way it works out values. It shows you the values of the colours based on how the human eye perceives light. The human eye is more sensitive to green light then it is to blue or red light and calculates the value accordingly, green makes up 59%, blue is 30% and red is 11% of the brightness of the colour. Also it’s good not to confuse luminance with luminosity. There are many on the Fujifilm forums who believe the white histogram on their cameras is a luminosity histogram. I’ve tried to investigate, without much luck, but I’m not convinced it is. I believe it’s the same as most modern digital cameras, it is displaying the “composite” RGB histogram. I believe this because when I take an image into photoshop and look at the different histogram options for the same image, Luminosity produces a vastly different histogram and the composite RGB one is similar to what’s seen in camera. I’m totally happy if we find out that the in-camera Fujifilm white histogram is indeed luminosity, I’ve pinned your question so hopefully someone who knows for sure can help or maybe you have further info. Cheers, thanks again.
Hello John. Having been a photographer for about 12 years now, I recently moved to Fujifilm and have been struggling to get my Raw images where I want them. This was absolutely the best video I've seen with regard to this topic and incredibly educational for any photographer. Thank you!
I've been shooting on a Nikon D7200 and I bought an XT30ii for something more portable for street photography. I shoot raw and this is by far the most informative video on the subject. Thanks for posting. I still think that the images I get from the nikon are more vibrant sharper and with more depth than the fuji, but that might change once I learn to make better use of the fuji.
Bit late coming to this one.....but so glad I did! Just discovered your chanel when I watched your take on the new X-T5 which I really enjoyed. This video came up as a clickable choice so followed that. This is the best information I have ever seen on the histogram. I have learned so much, so thank you. I have now subscribed to your chanel to keep up with your views on Fujifilm. Being a 100% stills shooter I have just pre-ordered the X-T5 to replace my X-T3 and am really looking forward to putting it through it's paces.
Outstanding, thank you for posting. As I read through the comments I wish you had replied Abhishek from about a year ago! I don’t see how you could make that scene with tools in Fuji x studio raw alone. Would love the details. 🙏👍
You save the fun part of viewing your beautifully photographed image until the very end. Your method makes a lot of sense but it would take some real discipline to resist the temptation of viewing a somewhat edited image while shooting. I’m glad I happened upon your page. Good video.
Thanks for your comment and time Rafael, it most certainly takes discipline. After years of shooting this way, I’m the opposite, I find it hard to create good looking images out of camera. Cheers
Well worth waiting for this post since your last one, John. Valuable, practical info, clearly presented.👍 I’ve seen many YT posts about ETTR, histograms, and “leeway” built into displays because they are based on JPEGS. However, you are the first to explain how to get histograms to more closely represent RAW values by adjusting JPEG settings - even when shooting only in RAW. Will definitely have a go with this method. Other YT vids say, or imply, JPEG settings when shooting RAW are irrelevant. Would have been closer to “perfect” had you shown side-by-side histogram comparisons of same scene with and without JPG adjustments. (OK, I’m lazy, but will have to try it for myself😀.) Some cams can display zebras in photo mode, but Fuji limits zebra option to movie mode only - zebra clip values can be more finely adjusted, as I understand, compared to clipping “blinkies”. Why don’t you use AEL? Do you retain exposure lock funtion tied to shutter release? Super opening segment that tells vid theme - cool pano. [Clip reminds me of possible new cocktail - John On The Rocks, w/twist of Fuji; make it a double 😁.] Cheers!
Thank you Paul, so glad to hear it was beneficial. You are right, I should have also shown live changes to the histogram with jpg setting changes. Towards the end of the video I showed natural live view on and off changes to the histogram, which is effectively turning off jpg settings, but also showing jpg setting changes would also be beneficial. I only change my jpg settings for playback histogram as I use natural live view on mostly. What I will tell you is when doing your test, changes between simulations without tonal curve changes produce small changes, but once you make highlight and shadow changes, you’ll see an obvious change. Simulation change is less important then tone curve change, but I like to do both to get the most. Since using mirrorless I seldom use my photometer settings, just keep it on average metering and no longer use AEL. I find the instant exposure feedback either in full manual or priority mode with exposure compensation negates most of their benefits for the type of shooting I do. Thanks for the info on the zebra highlight alert and thanks again for your time and support. Cheers
I've been investigating Natural Live View which brought me to this video. First, nicely done. It's very detailed and clearly explained. I have a question. Do I need to modify this procedure when shooting in black and white since Natural Live View retains some of the simulation information there? Or, does modifying the highlights/shadows setting as you explained take care of that issue?
Was really impressed by the quality of video and sound on your 3 favourite things about the XT4 vid. What happened to your video and sound here? Great reviews by the way from a fellow Cape Town dweller.
John- thanks this is really terrific, chunky, full of info. At one workshop I attended, the leader emphasized looking at the post view histogram as more accurate. Can you elaborate on that a bit? I'm going back to look at your whole series on exposure. Thanks again!
Thanks Geoff, glad you enjoyed. When you say post view histogram, are you referring to post production, your software histogram or rather the generated preview in camera histogram, after taking the image? Thanks
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography he was referring to looking at the histogram in camera after exposure. As I think about it, it may not have been so much about the difference in accuracy, but a confirmation that you got a good exposure w/o blown out highlights or maybe unrecoverable shadows. Thanks. Geoff
Thanks Geoff, I wouldn’t imagine the playback histogram would be different to the live view. Obviously if you are using natural live view, the histogram would be different to the playback preview, which would show jpg settings. Was the workshop leader using a DSLR? On a DSLR, the histogram is not displayed while shooting, it can only be viewed at playback. Mirrorless offers instant feedback with histogram, which reduces chimping. Thanks again
I found the video very helpful. Thank you. I would like to get my JPEG histogram as contrast less as possible. You suggest using the film simulation ProNegS. I shoot only in RAW but like to use a B&W film simulation to see focus better. Am I defeating the purpose of achieving less contrast in my JPEG preview by doing so?
Thanks Barbara, no not at all, I know many people who use a B&W simulation even though they are shooting RAW only, for various reasons. The amount of time a histogram is needed in general is not that often. The amount of time your b&w simulation is needed is most of the time. I would make sure I set highlights and shadows to -2, so you will still be stretching the histogram. Set the natural live view to a function button, then all you do when a tricky contrasty situation presents itself, hit the natural live view function button, the b&w simulation will turn off, check your histogram to make sure, set your exposure, turn off natural live view and carry on as usual. If you prefer to add contrast and raise highlights to your b&w simulation to aid focus, set the highlight and shadow as required, and just use natural live view where needed and ignore the histogram when turned off or at playback. Hope this helps. Thanks for your time.
A clarification question: do you stitch photos with LR or with plug-in or other software to get a DNG file? I’m using Capture One to edit but could use LR too. Thank you for your time.
I’m pretty sure the top white histogram is luminance.
Thanks Henry for your time and question. To be honest, this is tough one and I still have yet to fully investigate. Very few people (not saying you) don’t know the difference between the composite RGB and Luminosity histogram as they are both white and look similar. What doesn’t help the situation, is that most call the RGB histograms (plural), three separate channels, the RGB histogram (singular), that’s why I distinguish between RGB and colour histogram. So when I say RGB, I’m talking about a composite Histogram, like the RGB histogram found in photoshop. The RGB histogram displays the combined value of Red, Green and Blue of each pixel instead of looking at each channel separately, like the Colour histogram. The Luminosity histogram is also white looking, but is very different in the way it works out values. It shows you the values of the colours based on how the human eye perceives light. The human eye is more sensitive to green light then it is to blue or red light and calculates the value accordingly, green makes up 59%, blue is 30% and red is 11% of the brightness of the colour. Also it’s good not to confuse luminance with luminosity. There are many on the Fujifilm forums who believe the white histogram on their cameras is a luminosity histogram. I’ve tried to investigate, without much luck, but I’m not convinced it is. I believe it’s the same as most modern digital cameras, it is displaying the “composite” RGB histogram. I believe this because when I take an image into photoshop and look at the different histogram options for the same image, Luminosity produces a vastly different histogram and the composite RGB one is similar to what’s seen in camera. I’m totally happy if we find out that the in-camera Fujifilm white histogram is indeed luminosity, I’ve pinned your question so hopefully someone who knows for sure can help or maybe you have further info. Cheers, thanks again.
John Armstrong Photography good point. You are probably right.
Hello John. Having been a photographer for about 12 years now, I recently moved to Fujifilm and have been struggling to get my Raw images where I want them. This was absolutely the best video I've seen with regard to this topic and incredibly educational for any photographer. Thank you!
Thank you so much .... the Natural live view is awesome. this is the best tip someone has given me for fujifilm
I've been shooting on a Nikon D7200 and I bought an XT30ii for something more portable for street photography. I shoot raw and this is by far the most informative video on the subject. Thanks for posting. I still think that the images I get from the nikon are more vibrant sharper and with more depth than the fuji, but that might change once I learn to make better use of the fuji.
Another excellent tutorial. Thank You John…..!
Bit late coming to this one.....but so glad I did! Just discovered your chanel when I watched your take on the new X-T5 which I really enjoyed. This video came up as a clickable choice so followed that. This is the best information I have ever seen on the histogram. I have learned so much, so thank you. I have now subscribed to your chanel to keep up with your views on Fujifilm. Being a 100% stills shooter I have just pre-ordered the X-T5 to replace my X-T3 and am really looking forward to putting it through it's paces.
Fantastic tip on enabling Natural Live View! Thank you for making these videos. Just discovered this channel and have a lot to catch up on!
Good to hear Pete, thanks for your time and support.
As always John, very concise and detailed information. Cheers!
Thanks Greg, I appreciate the comment, glad I could help.
Solid information that is really useful. Thank you John.
Pleasure, glad it was helpful. Thanks for your time.
Amazing video as usual John!
Cheers Ludovic
Outstanding, thank you for posting. As I read through the comments I wish you had replied Abhishek from about a year ago! I don’t see how you could make that scene with tools in Fuji x studio raw alone. Would love the details. 🙏👍
Thanks for the clarification, it is very helpful and thanks for the great picture
Highly educational! Thank you so much for sharing.
Cheers Daniel, thanks for your time.
Thank you John,for sharing very helpful...
Pleasure Fred, I appreciate your time.
Thanks a lot for such an in depth explanation. Very helpful indeed.
Game changer re settings for jpeg camera preview. Thank you so much!
Thanks for your time Michael, I appreciate your comment.
Best tips ever
Thanks, you make great, useful and inspiring content
Thank you Victor, I appreciate your time, glad you enjoyed.
You save the fun part of viewing your beautifully photographed image until the very end. Your method makes a lot of sense but it would take some real discipline to resist the temptation of viewing a somewhat edited image while shooting. I’m glad I happened upon your page. Good video.
Thanks for your comment and time Rafael, it most certainly takes discipline. After years of shooting this way, I’m the opposite, I find it hard to create good looking images out of camera. Cheers
Nice and very helpful video! Especially for me after switching systems to Fuji, I always find some little tweaks in your video which help a lot. ;)
Cheers M T, glad to hear. Thanks for your time again.
Well worth waiting for this post since your last one, John. Valuable, practical info, clearly presented.👍 I’ve seen many YT posts about ETTR, histograms, and “leeway” built into displays because they are based on JPEGS. However, you are the first to explain how to get histograms to more closely represent RAW values by adjusting JPEG settings - even when shooting only in RAW. Will definitely have a go with this method. Other YT vids say, or imply, JPEG settings when shooting RAW are irrelevant. Would have been closer to “perfect” had you shown side-by-side histogram comparisons of same scene with and without JPG adjustments. (OK, I’m lazy, but will have to try it for myself😀.) Some cams can display zebras in photo mode, but Fuji limits zebra option to movie mode only - zebra clip values can be more finely adjusted, as I understand, compared to clipping “blinkies”. Why don’t you use AEL? Do you retain exposure lock funtion tied to shutter release? Super opening segment that tells vid theme - cool pano. [Clip reminds me of possible new cocktail - John On The Rocks, w/twist of Fuji; make it a double 😁.] Cheers!
Thank you Paul, so glad to hear it was beneficial. You are right, I should have also shown live changes to the histogram with jpg setting changes. Towards the end of the video I showed natural live view on and off changes to the histogram, which is effectively turning off jpg settings, but also showing jpg setting changes would also be beneficial. I only change my jpg settings for playback histogram as I use natural live view on mostly. What I will tell you is when doing your test, changes between simulations without tonal curve changes produce small changes, but once you make highlight and
shadow changes, you’ll see an obvious change. Simulation change is less important then tone curve change, but I like to do both to get the most. Since using mirrorless I seldom use my photometer settings, just keep it on average metering and no longer use AEL. I find the instant exposure feedback either in full manual or priority mode with exposure compensation negates most of their benefits for the type of shooting I do. Thanks for the info on the zebra highlight alert and thanks again for your time and support. Cheers
I've been investigating Natural Live View which brought me to this video. First, nicely done. It's very detailed and clearly explained. I have a question. Do I need to modify this procedure when shooting in black and white since Natural Live View retains some of the simulation information there? Or, does modifying the highlights/shadows setting as you explained take care of that issue?
This amazing!!!! Thank you!
Great Mike, good to hear. Thanks for your time.
Was really impressed by the quality of video and sound on your 3 favourite things about the XT4 vid. What happened to your video and sound here? Great reviews by the way from a fellow Cape Town dweller.
John- thanks this is really terrific, chunky, full of info. At one workshop I attended, the leader emphasized looking at the post view histogram as more accurate. Can you elaborate on that a bit? I'm going back to look at your whole series on exposure. Thanks again!
Thanks Geoff, glad you enjoyed. When you say post view histogram, are you referring to post production, your software histogram or rather the generated preview in camera histogram, after taking the image? Thanks
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography he was referring to looking at the histogram in camera after exposure. As I think about it, it may not have been so much about the difference in accuracy, but a confirmation that you got a good exposure w/o blown out highlights or maybe unrecoverable shadows. Thanks. Geoff
Thanks Geoff, I wouldn’t imagine the playback histogram would be different to the live view. Obviously if you are using natural live view, the histogram would be different to the playback preview, which would show jpg settings. Was the workshop leader using a DSLR? On a DSLR, the histogram is not displayed while shooting, it can only be viewed at playback. Mirrorless offers instant feedback with histogram, which reduces chimping. Thanks again
18:00 was the car really this glossy? or did you edit it? if yes, then how? I always want to have such glossy finish on cars but I never get it.
I really wish he would have responded to this!! 🤔🙏
Hi John and everyone,
With the nature live view on, should we only turn on when we shoot without flash? Please advise.
I found the video very helpful. Thank you. I would like to get my JPEG histogram as contrast less as possible. You suggest using the film simulation ProNegS. I shoot only in RAW but like to use a B&W film simulation to see focus better. Am I defeating the purpose of achieving less contrast in my JPEG preview by doing so?
Thanks Barbara, no not at all, I know many people who use a B&W simulation even though they are shooting RAW only, for various reasons. The amount of time a histogram is needed in general is not that often. The amount of time your b&w simulation is needed is most of the time. I would make sure I set highlights and shadows to -2, so you will still be stretching the histogram. Set the natural live view to a function button, then all you do when a tricky contrasty situation presents itself, hit the natural live view function button, the b&w simulation will turn off, check your histogram to make sure, set your exposure, turn off natural live view and carry on as usual. If you prefer to add contrast and raise highlights to your b&w simulation to aid focus, set the highlight and shadow as required, and just use natural live view where needed and ignore the histogram when turned off or at playback. Hope this helps. Thanks for your time.
the problem i see shooting with b&w is if one of the rgb histogram clips, you will miss it. so your colors may not be accurate
A clarification question: do you stitch photos with LR or with plug-in or other software to get a DNG file? I’m using Capture One to edit but could use LR too. Thank you for your time.
Thanks for the question. I don’t do stitching often, but when I do, I use LR with its built-in plugin which produces a stitched DNG file.
please make video about 50mm f1.0 🙏
Hopefully soon👍