Thanks for the video it helped me a lot. I'm a member of Men in sheds in Hornsea and I have been asked to make one of these by a customer, this sure will help.
Many thanks for the video - I’ve just finished mine. I made it slightly taller (1800mm and 1700mm). I upgraded the ladder frame to 2*4 and sat the whole frame on adjustable decking pedestal risers to help with levelling as it’s not on a complete flat. I used 22*150 boards for the roof and I also made the slats on the base removeable with a couple of batons to hopefully make it easier to clean out below once the bark and bits begin to build up. Build time was about 8 hours, material costs including my changes in was £215 (Oct 24). I would have struggled without this video - cheers
Great video thank you for putting together the drawings as well. Just finished mine using the same approach but made it slightly wider 2.8m, so added a fourth frame. Really pleased with the result and wouldn't have been possible without this guide 💪
Recommended by rag n brown. First video I have watched because I need to build one of these soon. The rest of your content looks great so I'm looking forward to watching it over the next while . Great work
Excellent video - clear, simple instructions. easy to follow. And the shed is a good design. In a store I built a while ago I used recovered pallets for the rear, and disassembled one to recover the slats for the sides etc.; but if I was starting from scratch (no pallets etc.) then this a good design. Likely could be adapted to provide a garden tool store as well (lawn mowers/shredders etc.) as all one would do is ensure rear & sides are not open to the weather, and provide a some form of door(s)...? 🤠😺
I'm a full on amateur diyer when it comes to woodwork but I've managed to put the frame together, albeit not as big as yours, do I need to screw in the battens to clad or can I just nail them to the frame?
Thank you for doing this . Could you tell me how to calculate and cut my angles without one of the mitre saws you have. I only have a hand saw. Thanks.
Hi francis, you could cut two peices of timber at just over 1200mm and two peices at exactly 500mm. Then use the 500's to space the two longer peices. Ensure the bottoms are even. You could lie them on the floor and butt them up to a flat surface like a wall. Then with these timbers evenly spaced at 500mm mark one timber at 1200 and the other at 1100 and put a straight edge accoss them and draw the angle on. Following this, cut them and then use these peices to mark all your other timbers. This way they will all be identical.
Great video! Really well explained and the diagrams are easy to follow - just one question - did you pre drill the holes for the frame before screwing?
It was built last year so not 100% if I did. With that said, it is always a good idea to predrill, as it will avoid splitting the wood and it also makes it easier to drive your screws in
Hi Michael, we used this log store all last winter and there was zero issue with rot, mould, or even damp wood. We did cover with a small piece of tarp to avoid wood getting wet from rain, but my understanding is the wood needs to breathe. Even when it did get a little wet, it was just on the surface and would quickly dry (even in cold weather). The wood we buy has been stored and dried for over a year. For rot to form, moisture content throughout the wood needs to be over a certain percentage. This would take a prolonged period of saturation, and you would also need rot spores to be present on the wood.
@@thediyfix Maybe he is suggesting that the cut ends of the frame might rot if exposed to the floor as the end grain will suck up moisture. It would probably last a bit longer if the long grain was down to the floor.
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Thanks for the video it helped me a lot. I'm a member of Men in sheds in Hornsea and I have been asked to make one of these by a customer, this sure will help.
Glad I could help
Many thanks for the video - I’ve just finished mine. I made it slightly taller (1800mm and 1700mm). I upgraded the ladder frame to 2*4 and sat the whole frame on adjustable decking pedestal risers to help with levelling as it’s not on a complete flat. I used 22*150 boards for the roof and I also made the slats on the base removeable with a couple of batons to hopefully make it easier to clean out below once the bark and bits begin to build up. Build time was about 8 hours, material costs including my changes in was £215 (Oct 24). I would have struggled without this video - cheers
Nice one, glad it helped
Thanks so much for your video - we used your design to build to our own custom size. Very clear and we're super pleased with the result. Great job.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thank you for putting together the drawings as well. Just finished mine using the same approach but made it slightly wider 2.8m, so added a fourth frame. Really pleased with the result and wouldn't have been possible without this guide 💪
Glad it helped
Recommended by rag n brown. First video I have watched because I need to build one of these soon. The rest of your content looks great so I'm looking forward to watching it over the next while . Great work
Thanks Vincent. I’m glad you liked the video. Any questions let me know and I’ll do my best to help
Best I’ve seen. Thanks! Think I’ll amend your design slightly to have two shelves.
Thanks Frank, glad you liked it
Newbie question but how to you cut the 10 degree angles for the side of the frame?
Very good result and very good and detailed plan and instructions. Please keep up the good work.
Thank you very much! Glad you liked it
Excellent video - clear, simple instructions. easy to follow. And the shed is a good design. In a store I built a while ago I used recovered pallets for the rear, and disassembled one to recover the slats for the sides etc.; but if I was starting from scratch (no pallets etc.) then this a good design. Likely could be adapted to provide a garden tool store as well (lawn mowers/shredders etc.) as all one would do is ensure rear & sides are not open to the weather, and provide a some form of door(s)...? 🤠😺
Glad you liked it mate
good video mate very helpful....cheers
Glad you fund it helpful mate
Great explanation - I’ve just created a twin! 👍
Glad it was helpful Rob
Great video! I have 2 questions, what mm thickness is the plywood and what chop saw do you use? (looking for a new one)
Hi Tom, the ply was 18mm and the saw is Dewalt, althought its pretty old, a more modern comparable is this one amzn.to/4gYiOvb
Thanks for the video and really effective design - do you an idea of the total cost including the timber, felt and fixings? Keep up the good work!
If my memory serves me correctly it was just under £150
Great video, for the roof would it be cheaper to use the same timber (no gaps) and then felt or would there be little difference
Off the top of my head im not 100% sure, but yeah it probably would be a little cheaper
I'm a full on amateur diyer when it comes to woodwork but I've managed to put the frame together, albeit not as big as yours, do I need to screw in the battens to clad or can I just nail them to the frame?
Personally I would nail them as it will give a better fixing
Thank you for doing this . Could you tell me how to calculate and cut my angles without one of the mitre saws you have. I only have a hand saw. Thanks.
Hi francis, you could cut two peices of timber at just over 1200mm and two peices at exactly 500mm. Then use the 500's to space the two longer peices.
Ensure the bottoms are even. You could lie them on the floor and butt them up to a flat surface like a wall.
Then with these timbers evenly spaced at 500mm mark one timber at 1200 and the other at 1100 and put a straight edge accoss them and draw the angle on. Following this, cut them and then use these peices to mark all your other timbers. This way they will all be identical.
@@thediyfix Thank you very much. That is great.
Great video! Really well explained and the diagrams are easy to follow - just one question - did you pre drill the holes for the frame before screwing?
It was built last year so not 100% if I did. With that said, it is always a good idea to predrill, as it will avoid splitting the wood and it also makes it easier to drive your screws in
Will the ends of the wood not rot?
Hi Michael, we used this log store all last winter and there was zero issue with rot, mould, or even damp wood. We did cover with a small piece of tarp to avoid wood getting wet from rain, but my understanding is the wood needs to breathe.
Even when it did get a little wet, it was just on the surface and would quickly dry (even in cold weather).
The wood we buy has been stored and dried for over a year. For rot to form, moisture content throughout the wood needs to be over a certain percentage. This would take a prolonged period of saturation, and you would also need rot spores to be present on the wood.
@@thediyfix Maybe he is suggesting that the cut ends of the frame might rot if exposed to the floor as the end grain will suck up moisture. It would probably last a bit longer if the long grain was down to the floor.
Could you tell me how many pieces of wood you will need for this
Hi Neal, there is a full list of materials in the description. You can also see them here: thediyfix.com/diy-log-store/