I think Mads is fantastic, it takes a lot to get out there every week and do this in his spare time. HOWEVER, I do agree with you that he has a tendency to find a part of the boat that isn't a problem, spend months over-thinking it, massively over-engineer a "solution" to his non-existent problems and then spend weeks implementing it. Meanwhile the real problems on the boat (the lack of a bulwark, the missing final coat of paint going into winter, the boats short 38ft size which is going to be very limiting) all go unaddressed.
@@KarelvanBrederode no, not at all. He still gets a higher margin of safety on the chainplate itself since the cross-sectional area is increased by 20%, so the chainplate can take 20% higher loads, or get damaged 20% more. I can't remember seeing many chainplates fail due to pulling the knees or bulkheads they were mounted to out of the hull, atleast not on reasonably made knees and bulkheads. They usually fail around bolt/pin holes, in welds or due to corrosion, often were they pass through the deck. Sure, it was likely not necessary to upsize the chainplates a bit, but it doesn't hurt. A wider chainplate would possibly have been better, but may have other downsides, it would have provided a stronger connection to the the bulkhead due to a larger contact area, but that is most likely not the weak point anyway. Bolted connections like th doesn't really rely on loading the bolts in shear, but rather on the friction between the components, but how well that actually works between fiberglass and stainless may be hard to quantify. Probably a good idea to have a smooth contact surface on the composite. If the bolts transfered all the loads, we would see a lot more oval holes around chainplates :) Bolted connections often use slightly oversized holes to not load the bolts in shear. If there is one component on a boat were a bit of overdimensioning is more than okey, it's the chainplates :) I've seen rules of thumb that state they should be about 5 times stronger than the wire they support, and that you should be able to lift the boat in the capshroud chainplates, seems reasonable to me. The only dismastings I've directly experienced so far have be due to broken chainplates. In one the capshroud chainplate failed in a weld on a 28 foot yacht while going upwind in moderate breeze, the mast came down in 2 pieces very quickly :/
@@Robinlarsson83 Hi Robin, there are many possible points of failure: chainplate, bolts (in shear), bulkhead. Just increasing the thickness of the chainplate is easy but not very efficient. It's about the weakest link.
The double chainplate (Cap Shroud & Intermediate Shroud) will eventually leak because the two pieces of steel are butted up against each other and sealant will be hard to get in there. Whats worse, that's the area where crevice corrosion will start to set in. There are two solutions; Ideally the chainplate should have been made from just one piece of alloy. Because you went with two, there should be a strip of butyl tape run between the two chainplates where they touch.
I had the exact same thought. If there is a way for water to enter a boat, it always finds it. That butt joint between the double plates is going to be an easy path for water to follow.
That caught my eye also. Making those water proof might be a challenge. Interesting design too, I wonder why they did not put a one peace there from the beginning. It would also have been stronger.
Hi, may I ask that you turn the caption option on for the video? I know UA-cam changed the caption settings and now the makers need to allow them: your video's a highlight of our week, but my Deaf wife can't even hear the "o glorious sanding" and all I can hear is her complaints that its not captioned anymore 😉
Saying "I wish Ava were here to hold the wrench" definitely lets Ava know that she is missed, but I am not sure it is the most endearing comment you could use to persuade a female to join you.
I don't know - he's asserting she is both capable and interested in the project - which I think a lot of women would find a delightful change of pace from the general assumption that women are shit with tools. A woman always looking to be flattered and pampered isn't going to enjoy cruising much. Ava seems to be a sturdy sort of woman, the kind who would enjoy an epic adventure and holding a wrench or two along the way.
I installed a Groco thru hull just like that with the same white Groco mounting disk. I used 3M 4200 to hold everything together, so the epoxy seems like an extra step to me. Also, when I took the old seacock out (also a Groco, but a different configuration they no longer make), I needed to remove the previous mounting block. That was SO MUCH WORK. So, it seems to me you have created a lot of work for whoever has to replace that seacock you just installed. The Groco I replaced was original to my 1973 boat, but who knows, you might still be sailing Athena in 40-50 years when that seacock needs to be replaced and cursing yourself for fiberglassing that disk in. ;-)
+Großer Maik: Not only his _patience_ , but also just _him_ ! Don't he be _lookin'_ like a mostly *_happy Buddah-man?_* All he have to do, be to fold _him arms_ ! And now, we got- _Shades of SV Delos_ ... 🤔
Yes this will leak, how couldn’t it, there’s nothing between the two pieces right? Or am I missing something, maybe not rain, but waves are much heavier no?
You might be able to weld the two plates together to seal the gap. Since the plates are installed you can tack weld supports on them to hold them in position while you weld the gap shut in the shop. You only need to weld far enough down to get a good four sided seal with the butal tape. Just my 2 cents.
David Hill I don’t think you’d weld, they might move independently no? Not much I agree, it just seems if you can weld them, why isn’t it made that way as a single unit?
Looks like your going to get water in down between the double chainplates. I think a silicone type sealant would work better considering the chainplate will probably flex when under load and may open up voids with the butyl.
Wouldn't it be simpler to make the doubled up chainplates into one double size chainplate with two connections? Then you wouldn't have to worry about water getting in between the plates. It would be all one plate.
Its coming along nicely Mads, One thing appears to be a glaring potential problem. The double chain plates, because they are so close together it will become a place for water to enter over time. Perhaps you might consider welding the two together, I know having to make a new double chain plate from one piece will be expensive, but,,,,, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" .and now would be a good time to address it.
8:26 For the holes that have 2 chain plates next to each other the water is going to leak down between them no matter how much you try and seal it, it's going to be a matter of when not if. Worse once a little salt gets down between them it's going to be a nice invisible location for corrosion to set in that your can't see or inspect. You would have been much better off having the fabricator make one double wide plate.
Hi Mads, obviously ATHENA closes in for splashing by the minute. A remark on the chainplates, as onother comment already mentioned the way you are installing the chainplates will lead to crevice corrosion. Even the highest quality stainless steel items suffer of it when there is no air flow over them. The sealing with butyl tape prevents exactly that. Now, you increased the thickness of the chainplates from 10 to 12 mm so it will presumably take maybe a decade before they fail, but fail they will. A solution to that problem is to make chainplate and cover in one piece, by welding or casting. Sealing is than done only around the rim of the cover which will also suffer from crevice corrosion but that doesn't lead to structural failure it's just cosmetics. Since both you yourself and Ava are still young and ATHENA is practically a new boat because of your incredible work, you might think about it.
... I have just spent the better part of the last two weeks binge watching the Sail Life videos ... I continue to be amazed at your tenacity ... I have thoroughly enjoyed all of them ... not that it matters, but I have agreed with most of your decisions and have learned many new ways of solving problems ... thank you for sharing this project ... fair winds and following seas ...
She looks great! You should consider giving a class on Glorious sanding. I painted aircraft in the United States Air Force. You would be surprised how many people carve a gouge in whatever they are sanding, even using an orbital sander. I watched a guy using a belt sander grind a hole in his cockpit sole by bearing down too hard in one spot!
I don't like butyl tape! Sika Flex is the thing you need for "no leaks". I tried butyl once on my boat and I will never apply it again. I don't know why every DIY channels use butyl and say that it is good to prevent leaks? Mads. ... You are the best...
With all this amazing progress I am strting to get a bit anxious.... Soon Athena will be finished, I just hope that you are saving enough sanding footage so you can upload weekly 20min videos of Oh Glorious Sanding to keep us deciples sane!!
Madz, would you consider using Dynema Dux rigging? Go look at Colligo Marine Website. They have fitted hundreds of yachts with this now and have a plethora of super spiffy specialist fittings that fit with it too. NO CORROSION. FIT AND REPAIR YOURSELF. VISUAL INSPECTION. STRONGER AND WAY WAY LIGHTER THAN STAINLESS. Just a tip from a bushman biker in NZ. lol She IS a Spiffy Boat, Dude. Oh ps. After India trip, I bought a special spiffy hose for the toilet with a water valve on the end, no more toilet paper for me, and much more hygienic than the westerners method of smearing poop round till content. So I vote with Ava on that for your toilet. No paper, no blockages.
I have to ask if you plan to utilize the dead space above the new floating fridge from the ceiling. I was thinking about this as it would be somewhere to "hang" a microwave as if you place the potential microwave in the cubby under the window, you'll cover up that little hatch you made (and found dead space in when ripping it all apart so long ago). If not a microwave, then why not a TV suspended from the ceiling in the parallel position to the ground and then pulled down when needed and put up when not used and out of the way. Run an HDMI cable from the TV, through the ceiling and behind the wall to the seating area, and now you have UA-cam and Netflix hardwired in from a laptop or micro PC or even a NAS, filled with movies on it (which is my plan) for the long winter nights :) Fellow tech geek throwing ideas your way to mull over and ya never know... might love one of the ideas :) Cheers brother! As always, loved the episode.
Butyl Tape works excellent in the chain plate application. Butyl being sticky will adhere to the chain plates and you will never have leaks. If you do, just stuff more Butyl under the cover. I did this for my 23' sailboat, never had a leak.
My 86 Catalina has chainplates similar to yours. Originally there was silicone sealing them. One of them leaked. I have owned the boat for 7 years now and 6 years ago I dug out the silicone and replaced it with butyl tape. I sail in the Great Lakes and we hail out our boats every winter and take down the mast etc. Six years later, and a lot of flexing and temperature changes, no leaks at all. You should be fine.
Since you used that "old chestnut" .. "Greatest thing since sliced bread" : (1) Sliced bread became (US) available on July 6, 1928, (2) My mother used to always look forward to one of her uncle to come over because he brought store bought slice bread with him.
for next time If you look at the back of the through haul you will see that there is a perfect round countersink you could put an o-ring in as a secondary seal so you don't have to worry about turning it from either side.
Put the butyl in between two aluminum pie tins and paint them black leave in the sun for a couple hours which will allow it to become really workable then clamp down. You may use duct tape to hold the wrench in place while snugging down the chain plates.
We used butyl tape for our own chainplate cover plates on SVBD and have had no leaks now after 3 years. Your cover plates look MUCH more beefy than ours which had a little flex in them plus ours were not through-bolted. Instead we had to use very small #8 screws so we really could not put a whole lot of torque into them to get them super tight without fear of stripping out the screws just holding into thickened epoxy pockets (drill-fill-drill to protect the core.). I can physically see the plates bending down at the screw holes a tiny bit so I know that not all the force at the screws on the ends is transferred to the middle to press down on the butyl there tightly. Still, it is holding fast with no leaks so far. I was not sure it would work and was prepared to remove all the cover plates and use something like sikaflex instead to do the job, but so far so good.
I think you need to put some sealer between the two chainplates where they touch each other, because water will go down into the boat through that tiny crack. My double chainplate is a single piece of metal instead of two separate units. That would solve the leak issue described above. I made my chainplates out of titanium so I never have to worry about crevice corrosion.
Perhaps a bevel on the underside of the chainplates would help compress the butyl tape and ensure a good seal. On the double chainplates you might need to put a bead of Sikaflex between them to seal water from seeping. Butyl is perfect for sealing chainplates and other deck penetrations, not because it seals permanently but because it is easy to replace. 3M 5200 is permanent! It is great to see Athena getting closer to splashdown. Here is hoping you get your needed weather window soon.
Thank you Mads for making Sunday complete. Here is hoping you get some good sun to finish the painting. Take care. stay well and my best to Ava and Jurkill.
The only problem i foresee with the butil tape is tied to the fact that it might separate from the chain plate whenever the chain plate is moving about, and they are moving with sway, tension, temp dif. etc. I'd squeeze in some butil from the top, into the gap of the chain plate and the chain plate guard. With a bit of soapy water, you can shape it nicely. That way, you're giving it a fighting chance (more surface area, thus less of a chance that a section might come unstuck. I wouldn't have shined the area under the plate either, to give the tape more sticktion.
Your videos are both good news and bad. Good because they ARE good and bad because I have to wait for Sunday. Also, and I think i speak for many others, longer videos please, if you can, even if it's glorious sanding, you can be assured they are not in the least boring
think about installing a ss u-bolt in the bow just above the waterline. You can order a 9/16" or 5/8" with long threads, this can be used for towing and for anchoring with a chain snubber
I dug out all of the old sikaflex from mine that was old and leaking and mushed in butyl tape..screwed the plate down, trimmed off the excess then rolled what was left over into a tube like play dough then put it around the top of the plate. It's not as pretty but it hasn't leaked since. In fact I'm so confident that they no longer leak that I've started to under go the task of insulating the cabin roof. ( the tube was probably overkill)
Butyl tape is absolutely the correct choice for bedding the chainplates. You want a sealant that always remains flexible and butyl tape does that better than any other compound. You are correct on beveling the edges to force the butyl to form an 'O Ring' seal around everything, but you don't have to make the bevels so deep and wide. You are correct in your observation that most of the butyl might get squeezed out because of the large bevels and that is likely what happened with the one that leaked. Keep in mind that 'O rings' are very small diameter while keeping things sealed (even in high vibration areas like the engine). To make perfect bevels I use small router bits on a trim router.
My boat’s chainplates leaked after only a couple of years from factory, a reputable Skandinavian boatyard. Sealant was some sort of polyurethane. That lost grip of the metal because it was polished. I fixed that by taking the shine off from the chainplate with fine grade sandpaper (not that glorious sanding) just where the sealant sits in the deck. That was 10 years ago and no leakage so far. Regards from Finland, we enjoy of the same weather here!
I went on a sail life binge watching spree again, Amazing to see how far both Athena and Mads have come in the past 4 years :P... Inspiring! Best wishes!
Bit of Butel tape between the double chainplates first would seal them then the cover and butel. Capillary action is going to suck water in between those two like crazy.
I replaced my 1/4" SS chainplates with 1/2" Alum. bronze, and fitted them the same way; wrapping them with paper and cellophane tape and sealing with thickened epoxy. I bedded with Life Caulk though. So far, so good. Immensely satisfying to see Mads tackle a project the same way.
Awesome idea, bronze is so much better... but do your turnbuckle toggles still fit to pin onto the chainplates? If you have 1/2" or larger turnbuckles, the toggle gap should be at least 1/2". Life Caulk is fine, it is a flexible sealant. Long term flexibility is the key factor.
If I understand you correctly, I think everything should be fine. I maintained the profile of the original chainplates, and the pins were all 1/2" already, so in my mind, there is more bearing surface for the pins and they are more stable than the original rig because toggles that accommodate 1/2" clevis pins are wide enough to accommodate the thicker chainplates. TLDR: the old chainplates looked "wobbly," the new ones look solid. I'm sure the old setup was sufficient, but since the age (1974) dictated a refresh, I figured why not do it once and (hopefully) never again?
@@curtislong4305 Yes, you did all the right things. Bronze is not quite as strong in tensile than Stainless Steel, but it is more ductile. Going with bronze chainplates requires up-sizing from the SS original, but sometimes people forget to consider the hardware factors and upsize too much. That is not the case with your boat since you had 1/2" clevis pin and obviously 1/2" turnbuckles. Had your turnbuckles been 3/8" you'd be in trouble. Since your gear is that large, you probably should have had 3/8" thick stainless chainplates to begin with, 1/4" was too small for world cruising scantlings but sufficient for coastal standards.
I think all volvo rev counters and dials are made by Siemens. If you need to replace one, get the serial number off the volvo badged one and order the identical Siemens at a much lower price.
We have a Volvo-Penta MD-2003 and I will never again in this life buy another product made by Volvo EVER. When this engine breaks and costs more than a couple of thousand to fix it will get pulled and tossed into the glorious dumpster to be replaced by a Beta Marine Diesel. I am so disgusted hy Volvo that I may not ever buy anything made in Sweden ever again. Crooks, Thieves, Brigands!
Buy Kubota parts from a tractor supply company. The only parts you need to ever buy from Beta are rhe marinizing bits like the heat exchanger. Even these are sourced from 3rd party suppliers. But still, Beta's mark-up is nothing like VP, especially since on an out of production engine where their stated company policy is to raise parts prices by 10% every year to force owners to "upgrade" to a newer engine. There is a special level of hell for everyone who works at VP. I hope they roast for eternity.
@@svbarryduckworth628 I think we are going to have to agree to disagree - we run 9 boats at present and in the past 20 years have put more than 60 through the fleet. Longest serving engine is a VP D2-55A fitted to a boat which has done 260k nm on charter and which, thus far, has only needed one engine mount replacing. This contrasts with the Beta engines we have fitted - five of the seven new units have all developed significant faults within the first 3 weeks of use - including both Beta parts and those from third parties. Beta are the only marine engine supplier I know of who specifically exclude their stop solenoids from their warranties. Any engine is only as good as the base block it is built around, but in our experience the Volvo's are better marinised than the Betas and, to us as a commercial operator, reliability is key.
As a Shipwtight and Rigger, i enjoy your channel, and i can fault very few of your idea's, BUT, as many have already mentioned, the twin chain plate install is not good, as far as stopping water intrusion, ideally it should have been one plate, with two pin hole's, that way, there would have been no issue with water getting between the two plates, if you think about it, there is no good way to caulk between the two plate's, due to movent, when tensioning , and movment under sail, this can be salvaged by removing the plates and welding toghethet, e.g., making one plate, also, thru bolting, makes it difficult to re-bed the caulking, with out removing the head liner and un-bolting, better to use a screw fastning. Keep up the good work. e.g., interested in the fridge system you will be using, as i am a refrigeration mechanic. Allfernow, Doug.
Hey mads, two things. First I just got done redoing the deck of my Catalina 22 alone and found that a vice grip with a piece of cut open tubing was a great set of extra hands that I knew would not fall off. Second, if your chainplates do leak, is there a reason that those pieces of trim need to be separate? I would do a quick tack weld while they are in place and then take them off and weld them into one big piece. That way it could only leak around the trim (now a flange) which WILL be sealed with butyl under compression. I did that with my boat and it looks “super spiffy”. Cheers
I was thinking the same thing on the chain plates. But worry that any weld may cause a stress riser in the weld area making them more prone to cracks at the weld under working loads and continual bending moments. Possibly brazing or post welding heat treating would make this a non issue but it's a great idea.
@@clearasmud376 because it will be a weak spot and where it will crack or start corroding. You don't even want a scratch on the chain plate. Smooth and unbroken surface is your friend. Polished like a baby's bottom.
Also, the chainplates move. Right now that stress is transferred via those big bolts to structural members in the hull. Welding the flanges means those stresses will be transferred to the deck via two small bolts. Something bad will happen.
Hi Mads. A couple of things we would comment on constructively. Nuts and bolts; Hold the bolt tighten the nut or you get a false sense of torque. The through hull appeared to have an O ring groove machined in it? May have been a belt and braces addition? Have you made provision for grounding wire to the through hulls and an anode? Silicone bronze is low on the galvanic table but worth the extra work for long term protection. We worked for 35 years + with silicone, buytal, polysulphide and other sealants in our business. None of the major suppliers will give more than a 10 year product guarantee out the water. (Dow, Sika, Arbo-seal, etc) A lot less under water. Both Dow and Sika need their own primer products. Butyl products and polysulphide have a specific shelf life that's no more than a year and it needs to be stored in set conditions, as do Sika, Arbo and Dow. Just making sure your aware of this mate? Your nearly there! Hope we have added to yours and the hive mind. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
HI great video, why not use an O ring around the chain plate with Dow Corning.DC4 Silicone Compound for the O ring to keep it supple the compound will not brakdown like the clear silicones, it is been used on north sea installations for years,i noticed in last weeks video you where installing some very expensive lip seals may i surgest if you have requirement you contact TESS Hydraulics in Norway we use them to supply hose,fittings and all marine sundary items we have used them for some time best regards.
I’ve been watching your channel for about a year and a half. I’m envious of your attention to detail. I’ve always wanted to get a live aboard. I’m convinced I don’t have the technical skills to do anything close to what you’ve done but I really enjoy watching you so great job!
Hi Mads, things are coming along smashingly! I am curious though, why the rush to get Athena in the water? It seems so convenient to have her right there at the workshop with access to every tool imaginable A mere step or two away.Why not leave her right where she sitsUntil everything is complete, that way she spends less time in the corrosive Soup we call the ocean. Just thinking out loud here, keep up the good work things are looking great.
Those offset screw holes will drive some people ABSOLUTELY BONKERS ! You had better make sire the screw heads are in perfect alignment ! :) !! Smart, you used Allen head socket screws !
From what I saw it looked like you didn't have enough butyl tape around the chain plates themselves. So water could sit in the gap between the plate and the trim piece and eventually it will find a way in .
I’ve been watching since right after you got Athena, and Im super excited to see you guys in the water. Hopefully once you two move in and start your sailing you still do some videos, or perhaps even a podcast which would be amazing to listen to.
Hello Mads I have used fittings from the Danish manufacturer Blue Wave there rigging is fantastic and very very spiffy indeed have a look well worth it it comes in both swag and swag less I went for the swag less as you just need to replace the inner core and wire next time saving a lot. regards Chris S.V.Nagisa
I share the concern voiced about butting two chain plates so close to each other. But, as to your question... Butyl tape has worked well on my 30 ft. sloop for over 20 years and +/- 10,000 nm.'s. Your mileage may vary!
Clean a channel in the deck covers around the chain plates and squeeze in a bead of sikaflex. If it's good enough to seal windows and ports it should keep it dry and still allow a bit of flexing under sail...
3:53 Don't clamp down super tight on butyl -- you'll squeeze it out. With curing sealants such as Sikaflex, the usual thing is to allow it to cure with the bolts fairly loose, then tighten up once it has formed a cured gasket. But butyl does not cure, and if you keep squeezing it'll keep flowing. Butyl is great and I use it wherever I can (above the waterline). I expect it'll do well in the chainplates but I'll be interested to see how you get along.
Hi Mads, the Butyl will work great and as you know it is much easier to replace as well. As the folks said below the double plate may need a different approach between the two.
at 14:33 you should hold your spanner the other way, with the adjustable part towards the rotation, it's less likely to slip then. Great video as usual!
You missed a double entendre there Mads 7:20 "Its certainly going to be a lot easier when Ava moves aboard for I will always have someone to hold my nuts"
I would be sceptic of lekkage between you're two tuching chain plates on the main bulkhead🤔😁 Maybe a double instead of 2 singels next eachother? My complements for you're patience 💪
Hmmmm, Butyl tape, hmmmm. My first concern is where you have 2 chainplates touching, I'm thinking there may be room between the two for water penetration. Darn water gets through the smallest spaces. As long as the butyl remains flexible I'm thinking it should work pretty well as the chain plates flex a bit. But, we'll see!
One of the advantages of butyl tape is that it does not harden. I did mine with butyl over three years ago and they don't leak and my boat has been through two (2) hurricanes in that time. I do share your concern about the two chainplates through the same hole though.
LOL, the 12mm chainplates must win the overkill award....when bolted into a plywood bulkhead.
I think Mads is fantastic, it takes a lot to get out there every week and do this in his spare time. HOWEVER, I do agree with you that he has a tendency to find a part of the boat that isn't a problem, spend months over-thinking it, massively over-engineer a "solution" to his non-existent problems and then spend weeks implementing it. Meanwhile the real problems on the boat (the lack of a bulwark, the missing final coat of paint going into winter, the boats short 38ft size which is going to be very limiting) all go unaddressed.
Thicker without increasing number of bolts and/or surface area is pointless. Wider would have made some sense structurally.
@@KarelvanBrederode no, not at all. He still gets a higher margin of safety on the chainplate itself since the cross-sectional area is increased by 20%, so the chainplate can take 20% higher loads, or get damaged 20% more.
I can't remember seeing many chainplates fail due to pulling the knees or bulkheads they were mounted to out of the hull, atleast not on reasonably made knees and bulkheads.
They usually fail around bolt/pin holes, in welds or due to corrosion, often were they pass through the deck.
Sure, it was likely not necessary to upsize the chainplates a bit, but it doesn't hurt.
A wider chainplate would possibly have been better, but may have other downsides, it would have provided a stronger connection to the the bulkhead due to a larger contact area, but that is most likely not the weak point anyway.
Bolted connections like th doesn't really rely on loading the bolts in shear, but rather on the friction between the components, but how well that actually works between fiberglass and stainless may be hard to quantify. Probably a good idea to have a smooth contact surface on the composite.
If the bolts transfered all the loads, we would see a lot more oval holes around chainplates :)
Bolted connections often use slightly oversized holes to not load the bolts in shear.
If there is one component on a boat were a bit of overdimensioning is more than okey, it's the chainplates :)
I've seen rules of thumb that state they should be about 5 times stronger than the wire they support, and that you should be able to lift the boat in the capshroud chainplates, seems reasonable to me.
The only dismastings I've directly experienced so far have be due to broken chainplates.
In one the capshroud chainplate failed in a weld on a 28 foot yacht while going upwind in moderate breeze, the mast came down in 2 pieces very quickly :/
@@Robinlarsson83 Hi Robin, there are many possible points of failure: chainplate, bolts (in shear), bulkhead. Just increasing the thickness of the chainplate is easy but not very efficient. It's about the weakest link.
Sunday wouldn't be Sunday without these videos...
“Slightly thickened dinosaur squeezings”. Brilliant. Douglas Adams and Terry Pratchett wouldn’t have been ashamed by using that...
The double chainplate (Cap Shroud & Intermediate Shroud) will eventually leak because the two pieces of steel are butted up against each other and sealant will be hard to get in there. Whats worse, that's the area where crevice corrosion will start to set in. There are two solutions; Ideally the chainplate should have been made from just one piece of alloy. Because you went with two, there should be a strip of butyl tape run between the two chainplates where they touch.
My external Z-drive has nylon washers wherever stainless steel meets stainless steel. I wonder if you could use those?
My thought exactly...definitely a weak spot...too late to weld together?
The things you can do with neopreen.....
I had the exact same thought. If there is a way for water to enter a boat, it always finds it. That butt joint between the double plates is going to be an easy path for water to follow.
That caught my eye also. Making those water proof might be a challenge. Interesting design too, I wonder why they did not put a one peace there from the beginning. It would also have been stronger.
How can 33 people not like this? Absolute dinosaur squeezings. Thanks Mads brilliant as ever.
Hi, may I ask that you turn the caption option on for the video? I know UA-cam changed the caption settings and now the makers need to allow them: your video's a highlight of our week, but my Deaf wife can't even hear the "o glorious sanding" and all I can hear is her complaints that its not captioned anymore 😉
I would consider go into a shipbuilding shed for 2 days and finish the paintwork
justsomeguy, like the bow railing on the foredeck 😉
Aaaaah my Sunday is complete 👍
3rd coat of paint for UV resistance can't be applied because you don't have enough sun ... what an irony ...
after reading some of the comments, I get the feeling that there will be a 'part three' in the chainplate saga.
Saying "I wish Ava were here to hold the wrench" definitely lets Ava know that she is missed, but
I am not sure it is the most endearing comment you could use to persuade a female to join you.
I don't know - he's asserting she is both capable and interested in the project - which I think a lot of women would find a delightful change of pace from the general assumption that women are shit with tools. A woman always looking to be flattered and pampered isn't going to enjoy cruising much. Ava seems to be a sturdy sort of woman, the kind who would enjoy an epic adventure and holding a wrench or two along the way.
"She Who Must Be Obeyed"...
Mads you should start making 1-2 hours videos ..this is not enough !
I would watch two 1-hour episodes each week.
Mads should really go to a twice-weekly publication schedule once he is done at his day job.
I installed a Groco thru hull just like that with the same white Groco mounting disk. I used 3M 4200 to hold everything together, so the epoxy seems like an extra step to me. Also, when I took the old seacock out (also a Groco, but a different configuration they no longer make), I needed to remove the previous mounting block. That was SO MUCH WORK. So, it seems to me you have created a lot of work for whoever has to replace that seacock you just installed. The Groco I replaced was original to my 1973 boat, but who knows, you might still be sailing Athena in 40-50 years when that seacock needs to be replaced and cursing yourself for fiberglassing that disk in. ;-)
Boatwork Outdoors would be a great name for a UA-cam channel.
Your patience is almost Buddah-like.
+Großer Maik: Not only his _patience_ , but also just _him_ ! Don't he be _lookin'_ like a mostly *_happy Buddah-man?_* All he have to do, be to fold _him arms_ ! And now, we got- _Shades of SV Delos_ ... 🤔
Mads, the problem for me is that I probably know more about your boat than my own.
In that you technically completed "install chainplates", you should close that story and open a new one in your backlog for "install chainplate." :-D
only issue I see is on the dual chainplates, surely water will wick down between the two plates straight into the boat.
I agree - probably capillary action down like a fountain pen
Yes this will leak, how couldn’t it, there’s nothing between the two pieces right? Or am I missing something, maybe not rain, but waves are much heavier no?
You might be able to weld the two plates together to seal the gap. Since the plates are installed you can tack weld supports on them to hold them in position while you weld the gap shut in the shop. You only need to weld far enough down to get a good four sided seal with the butal tape. Just my 2 cents.
David Hill I don’t think you’d weld, they might move independently no? Not much I agree, it just seems if you can weld them, why isn’t it made that way as a single unit?
Butyl tape between them
Looks like your going to get water in down between the double chainplates. I think a silicone type sealant would work better considering the chainplate will probably flex when under load and may open up voids with the butyl.
I was thinking the same.
Wouldn't it be simpler to make the doubled up chainplates into one double size chainplate with two connections? Then you wouldn't have to worry about water getting in between the plates. It would be all one plate.
Agreed.
Not silicone. Anything but silicone....chewing gum. Anything...
I have a solid double on my boat. Two singles together is a recipe for continued leaks.
What can be better than a rock solid thru hull valve ...makes you sleep better . cheers skipper
I have watched all your videos and you have help me beyond measure. Thank you!
Its coming along nicely Mads, One thing appears to be a glaring potential problem. The double chain plates, because they are so close together it will become a place for water to enter over time. Perhaps you might consider welding the two together, I know having to make a new double chain plate from one piece will be expensive, but,,,,, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" .and now would be a good time to address it.
8:26 For the holes that have 2 chain plates next to each other the water is going to leak down between them no matter how much you try and seal it, it's going to be a matter of when not if. Worse once a little salt gets down between them it's going to be a nice invisible location for corrosion to set in that your can't see or inspect. You would have been much better off having the fabricator make one double wide plate.
Hi Mads, obviously ATHENA closes in for splashing by the minute.
A remark on the chainplates, as onother comment already mentioned the way you are installing the chainplates will lead to crevice corrosion. Even the highest quality stainless steel items suffer of it when there is no air flow over them. The sealing with butyl tape prevents exactly that. Now, you increased the thickness of the chainplates from 10 to 12 mm so it will presumably take maybe a decade before they fail, but fail they will. A solution to that problem is to make chainplate and cover in one piece, by welding or casting. Sealing is than done only around the rim of the cover which will also suffer from crevice corrosion but that doesn't lead to structural failure it's just cosmetics. Since both you yourself and Ava are still young and ATHENA is practically a new boat because of your incredible work, you might think about it.
... I have just spent the better part of the last two weeks binge watching the Sail Life videos ... I continue to be amazed at your tenacity ... I have thoroughly enjoyed all of them ... not that it matters, but I have agreed with most of your decisions and have learned many new ways of solving problems ... thank you for sharing this project ... fair winds and following seas ...
She looks great! You should consider giving a class on Glorious sanding. I painted aircraft in the United States Air Force. You would be surprised how many people carve a gouge in whatever they are sanding, even using an orbital sander. I watched a guy using a belt sander grind a hole in his cockpit sole by bearing down too hard in one spot!
I don't like butyl tape! Sika Flex is the thing you need for "no leaks". I tried butyl once on my boat and I will never apply it again. I don't know why every DIY channels use butyl and say that it is good to prevent leaks? Mads. ... You are the best...
Funny.. almost everyone seems to have no problems with it. Maybe you didn't apply it correctly?
@@Garryck-1 Yea, perhaps 🤔. Never had problems with SikaFlex.
“Hold the spanner!?” Is that what they are calling it now? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes in Australia we call then Spanners
Capt Chef Mark SV Alcina. Yup and in the UK.
Posted 3 minutes ago, and already 88 views. That says something about your subscribers! ;-) Thanks for another great video.
How can you tell what time it was published?
I love watching him
My Sunday afternoons are set aside for these videos. I love the craftsmanship
@@peteralund When it shows up in my queue, it says "3 minutes ago" or "6 hours ago" or "8 years ago" underneath the thumbnail. Hope that helps! ;-)
Whew... I really thought you were gonna say "Hold my nuts"..... LOL ;-)
A true Viking!
With all this amazing progress I am strting to get a bit anxious.... Soon Athena will be finished, I just hope that you are saving enough sanding footage so you can upload weekly 20min videos of Oh Glorious Sanding to keep us deciples sane!!
It ain't Sunday without watching Sail Life, great work, thanks for sharing.
I used butyl tape on my chain plates and it worked well
Madz, would you consider using Dynema Dux rigging? Go look at Colligo Marine Website. They have fitted hundreds of yachts with this now and have a plethora of super spiffy specialist fittings that fit with it too. NO CORROSION. FIT AND REPAIR YOURSELF. VISUAL INSPECTION. STRONGER AND WAY WAY LIGHTER THAN STAINLESS. Just a tip from a bushman biker in NZ. lol She IS a Spiffy Boat, Dude. Oh ps. After India trip, I bought a special spiffy hose for the toilet with a water valve on the end, no more toilet paper for me, and much more hygienic than the westerners method of smearing poop round till content.
So I vote with Ava on that for your toilet. No paper, no blockages.
Rewording the mast is pretty easy provide there are baffles inside the mast to separate the electric cables form the halyards. Thanks Mads.
I have to ask if you plan to utilize the dead space above the new floating fridge from the ceiling. I was thinking about this as it would be somewhere to "hang" a microwave as if you place the potential microwave in the cubby under the window, you'll cover up that little hatch you made (and found dead space in when ripping it all apart so long ago). If not a microwave, then why not a TV suspended from the ceiling in the parallel position to the ground and then pulled down when needed and put up when not used and out of the way. Run an HDMI cable from the TV, through the ceiling and behind the wall to the seating area, and now you have UA-cam and Netflix hardwired in from a laptop or micro PC or even a NAS, filled with movies on it (which is my plan) for the long winter nights :) Fellow tech geek throwing ideas your way to mull over and ya never know... might love one of the ideas :) Cheers brother! As always, loved the episode.
Butyl Tape works excellent in the chain plate application. Butyl being sticky will adhere to the chain plates and you will never have leaks. If you do, just stuff more Butyl under the cover. I did this for my 23' sailboat, never had a leak.
My 86 Catalina has chainplates similar to yours. Originally there was silicone sealing them. One of them leaked. I have owned the boat for 7 years now and 6 years ago I dug out the silicone and replaced it with butyl tape. I sail in the Great Lakes and we hail out our boats every winter and take down the mast etc. Six years later, and a lot of flexing and temperature changes, no leaks at all. You should be fine.
Since you used that "old chestnut" .. "Greatest thing since sliced bread" : (1) Sliced bread became (US) available on July 6, 1928, (2) My mother used to always look forward to one of her uncle to come over because he brought store bought slice bread with him.
Neverseze on all metal threads is a must
He never stops! Just keep swimming Mads!
for next time
If you look at the back of the through haul you will see that there is a perfect round countersink you could put an o-ring in as a secondary seal so you don't have to worry about turning it from either side.
Put the butyl in between two aluminum pie tins and paint them black leave in the sun for a couple hours which will allow it to become really workable then clamp down. You may use duct tape to hold the wrench in place while snugging down the chain plates.
Burrrr.. ohh yes, winter is definitely coming early this year..
We used butyl tape for our own chainplate cover plates on SVBD and have had no leaks now after 3 years.
Your cover plates look MUCH more beefy than ours which had a little flex in them plus ours were not through-bolted. Instead we had to use very small #8 screws so we really could not put a whole lot of torque into them to get them super tight without fear of stripping out the screws just holding into thickened epoxy pockets (drill-fill-drill to protect the core.).
I can physically see the plates bending down at the screw holes a tiny bit so I know that not all the force at the screws on the ends is transferred to the middle to press down on the butyl there tightly.
Still, it is holding fast with no leaks so far. I was not sure it would work and was prepared to remove all the cover plates and use something like sikaflex instead to do the job, but so far so good.
I think you need to put some sealer between the two chainplates where they touch each other, because water will go down into the boat through that tiny crack. My double chainplate is a single piece of metal instead of two separate units. That would solve the leak issue described above. I made my chainplates out of titanium so I never have to worry about crevice corrosion.
See you next week! 😀
Du er dyktig Mads,jeg lære meget af dig så tak for det.
You could get on piece of stainless double the width of those 2 chain plates so it can’t leak between the 2 plates. Or weld between the 2.
Great job Mads, you are real inpiration to all us diy wannebees. 👍
Perhaps a bevel on the underside of the chainplates would help compress the butyl tape and ensure a good seal. On the double chainplates you might need to put a bead of Sikaflex between them to seal water from seeping. Butyl is perfect for sealing chainplates and other deck penetrations, not because it seals permanently but because it is easy to replace. 3M 5200 is permanent!
It is great to see Athena getting closer to splashdown. Here is hoping you get your needed weather window soon.
Your work and attention to detail is amazing. You set an excellent example.
Thank you Mads for making Sunday complete. Here is hoping you get some good sun to finish the painting. Take care. stay well and my best to Ava and Jurkill.
The only problem i foresee with the butil tape is tied to the fact that it might separate from the chain plate whenever the chain plate is moving about, and they are moving with sway, tension, temp dif. etc. I'd squeeze in some butil from the top, into the gap of the chain plate and the chain plate guard. With a bit of soapy water, you can shape it nicely. That way, you're giving it a fighting chance (more surface area, thus less of a chance that a section might come unstuck. I wouldn't have shined the area under the plate either, to give the tape more sticktion.
Your videos are both good news and bad. Good because they ARE good and bad because I have to wait for Sunday. Also, and I think i speak for many others, longer videos please, if you can, even if it's glorious sanding, you can be assured they are not in the least boring
think about installing a ss u-bolt in the bow just above the waterline. You can order a 9/16" or 5/8" with long threads, this can be used for towing and for anchoring with a chain snubber
Can't wait till next week it so good to watch your videos YOU ARE THE MAN ..........👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great job, I would have made the two edge to edge chain plates into one. That prevents the leak point between.
Best wishes
Always enjoy your videos.
I dug out all of the old sikaflex from mine that was old and leaking and mushed in butyl tape..screwed the plate down, trimmed off the excess then rolled what was left over into a tube like play dough then put it around the top of the plate. It's not as pretty but it hasn't leaked since. In fact I'm so confident that they no longer leak that I've started to under go the task of insulating the cabin roof. ( the tube was probably overkill)
Butyl tape is absolutely the correct choice for bedding the chainplates. You want a sealant that always remains flexible and butyl tape does that better than any other compound. You are correct on beveling the edges to force the butyl to form an 'O Ring' seal around everything, but you don't have to make the bevels so deep and wide. You are correct in your observation that most of the butyl might get squeezed out because of the large bevels and that is likely what happened with the one that leaked. Keep in mind that 'O rings' are very small diameter while keeping things sealed (even in high vibration areas like the engine). To make perfect bevels I use small router bits on a trim router.
in my book, butyl tape can never be wrong. i use it around my farm for everything!
My boat’s chainplates leaked after only a couple of years from factory, a reputable Skandinavian boatyard. Sealant was some sort of polyurethane. That lost grip of the metal because it was polished. I fixed that by taking the shine off from the chainplate with fine grade sandpaper (not that glorious sanding) just where the sealant sits in the deck. That was 10 years ago and no leakage so far. Regards from Finland, we enjoy of the same weather here!
Plod on, Mads, plod on........
I went on a sail life binge watching spree again, Amazing to see how far both Athena and Mads have come in the past 4 years :P... Inspiring! Best wishes!
Bit of Butel tape between the double chainplates first would seal them then the cover and butel. Capillary action is going to suck water in between those two like crazy.
I replaced my 1/4" SS chainplates with 1/2" Alum. bronze, and fitted them the same way; wrapping them with paper and cellophane tape and sealing with thickened epoxy. I bedded with Life Caulk though. So far, so good.
Immensely satisfying to see Mads tackle a project the same way.
Awesome idea, bronze is so much better... but do your turnbuckle toggles still fit to pin onto the chainplates? If you have 1/2" or larger turnbuckles, the toggle gap should be at least 1/2". Life Caulk is fine, it is a flexible sealant. Long term flexibility is the key factor.
If I understand you correctly, I think everything should be fine. I maintained the profile of the original chainplates, and the pins were all 1/2" already, so in my mind, there is more bearing surface for the pins and they are more stable than the original rig because toggles that accommodate 1/2" clevis pins are wide enough to accommodate the thicker chainplates. TLDR: the old chainplates looked "wobbly," the new ones look solid.
I'm sure the old setup was sufficient, but since the age (1974) dictated a refresh, I figured why not do it once and (hopefully) never again?
@@curtislong4305 Yes, you did all the right things. Bronze is not quite as strong in tensile than Stainless Steel, but it is more ductile. Going with bronze chainplates requires up-sizing from the SS original, but sometimes people forget to consider the hardware factors and upsize too much. That is not the case with your boat since you had 1/2" clevis pin and obviously 1/2" turnbuckles. Had your turnbuckles been 3/8" you'd be in trouble. Since your gear is that large, you probably should have had 3/8" thick stainless chainplates to begin with, 1/4" was too small for world cruising scantlings but sufficient for coastal standards.
World cruising/crossing oceans is the goal, so I appreciate your affirmation here!
I think all volvo rev counters and dials are made by Siemens. If you need to replace one, get the serial number off the volvo badged one and order the identical Siemens at a much lower price.
Volvo, those greedy, greedy bastards... (I own 3 Volvo cars) I always buy OEM parts.
We have a Volvo-Penta MD-2003 and I will never again in this life buy another product made by Volvo EVER.
When this engine breaks and costs more than a couple of thousand to fix it will get pulled and tossed into the glorious dumpster to be replaced by a Beta Marine Diesel.
I am so disgusted hy Volvo that I may not ever buy anything made in Sweden ever again.
Crooks, Thieves, Brigands!
@@svbarryduckworth628 Be warned. We run a charter company here in SCotland and have found Beta spares to also be eye watering in terms of cost
Buy Kubota parts from a tractor supply company. The only parts you need to ever buy from Beta are rhe marinizing bits like the heat exchanger. Even these are sourced from 3rd party suppliers.
But still, Beta's mark-up is nothing like VP, especially since on an out of production engine where their stated company policy is to raise parts prices by 10% every year to force owners to "upgrade" to a newer engine.
There is a special level of hell for everyone who works at VP. I hope they roast for eternity.
@@svbarryduckworth628 I think we are going to have to agree to disagree - we run 9 boats at present and in the past 20 years have put more than 60 through the fleet. Longest serving engine is a VP D2-55A fitted to a boat which has done 260k nm on charter and which, thus far, has only needed one engine mount replacing. This contrasts with the Beta engines we have fitted - five of the seven new units have all developed significant faults within the first 3 weeks of use - including both Beta parts and those from third parties. Beta are the only marine engine supplier I know of who specifically exclude their stop solenoids from their warranties. Any engine is only as good as the base block it is built around, but in our experience the Volvo's are better marinised than the Betas and, to us as a commercial operator, reliability is key.
As a Shipwtight and Rigger, i enjoy your channel, and i can fault very few of your idea's, BUT, as many have already mentioned, the twin chain plate install is not good, as far as stopping water intrusion, ideally it should have been one plate, with two pin hole's, that way, there would have been no issue with water getting between the two plates, if you think about it, there is no good way to caulk between the two plate's, due to movent, when tensioning , and movment under sail, this can be salvaged by removing the plates and welding toghethet, e.g., making one plate, also, thru bolting, makes it difficult to re-bed the caulking, with out removing the head liner and un-bolting, better to use a screw fastning. Keep up the good work. e.g., interested in the fridge system you will be using, as i am a refrigeration mechanic. Allfernow, Doug.
Hey mads, two things. First I just got done redoing the deck of my Catalina 22 alone and found that a vice grip with a piece of cut open tubing was a great set of extra hands that I knew would not fall off. Second, if your chainplates do leak, is there a reason that those pieces of trim need to be separate? I would do a quick tack weld while they are in place and then take them off and weld them into one big piece. That way it could only leak around the trim (now a flange) which WILL be sealed with butyl under compression. I did that with my boat and it looks “super spiffy”. Cheers
I was thinking the same thing on the chain plates. But worry that any weld may cause a stress riser in the weld area making them more prone to cracks at the weld under working loads and continual bending moments. Possibly brazing or post welding heat treating would make this a non issue but it's a great idea.
Bad idea.
@@svbarryduckworth628 -- Because?
@@clearasmud376 because it will be a weak spot and where it will crack or start corroding. You don't even want a scratch on the chain plate. Smooth and unbroken surface is your friend. Polished like a baby's bottom.
Also, the chainplates move. Right now that stress is transferred via those big bolts to structural members in the hull. Welding the flanges means those stresses will be transferred to the deck via two small bolts. Something bad will happen.
Hi Mads. A couple of things we would comment on constructively. Nuts and bolts; Hold the bolt tighten the nut or you get a false sense of torque. The through hull appeared to have an O ring groove machined in it? May have been a belt and braces addition? Have you made provision for grounding wire to the through hulls and an anode? Silicone bronze is low on the galvanic table but worth the extra work for long term protection. We worked for 35 years + with silicone, buytal, polysulphide and other sealants in our business. None of the major suppliers will give more than a 10 year product guarantee out the water. (Dow, Sika, Arbo-seal, etc) A lot less under water. Both Dow and Sika need their own primer products. Butyl products and polysulphide have a specific shelf life that's no more than a year and it needs to be stored in set conditions, as do Sika, Arbo and Dow. Just making sure your aware of this mate? Your nearly there! Hope we have added to yours and the hive mind. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
The groove in the through-hull isn't for an o-ring. It's designed for sealant to squeeze into, forming something like an o-ring, only better.
HI great video, why not use an O ring around the chain plate with Dow Corning.DC4 Silicone Compound for the O ring to keep it supple the compound will not brakdown like the clear silicones, it is been used on north sea installations for years,i noticed in last weeks video you where installing some very expensive lip seals may i surgest if you have requirement you contact TESS Hydraulics in Norway we use them to supply hose,fittings and all marine sundary items we have used them for some time best regards.
I like to see a tour of cement boat. Or "behind the scene."
I’ve been watching your channel for about a year and a half. I’m envious of your attention to detail. I’ve always wanted to get a live aboard. I’m convinced I don’t have the technical skills to do anything close to what you’ve done but I really enjoy watching you so great job!
Hi Mads, things are coming along smashingly! I am curious though, why the rush to get Athena in the water? It seems so convenient to have her right there at the workshop with access to every tool imaginable A mere step or two away.Why not leave her right where she sitsUntil everything is complete, that way she spends less time in the corrosive Soup we call the ocean. Just thinking out loud here, keep up the good work things are looking great.
I hope you keep Athena at the shop until you have finished the interior and all other major tasks!!!
Those offset screw holes will drive some people ABSOLUTELY BONKERS ! You had better make sire the screw heads are in perfect alignment ! :) !! Smart, you used Allen head socket screws !
From what I saw it looked like you didn't have enough butyl tape around the chain plates themselves. So water could sit in the gap between the plate and the trim piece and eventually it will find a way in .
I think it might be good to put butyl between the twin chain plates. Water could easily wick down between them.
I’ve been watching since right after you got Athena, and Im super excited to see you guys in the water. Hopefully once you two move in and start your sailing you still do some videos, or perhaps even a podcast which would be amazing to listen to.
Mads did you check that your turnbuckles will fit with your new chainplates. A 1/2" turnbuckle has a 13mm pin.
P.S. great work on the boat , can't wait until we all see her splash in the water !!
Hello Mads I have used fittings from the Danish manufacturer Blue Wave there rigging is fantastic and very very spiffy indeed have a look well worth it it comes in both swag and swag less I went for the swag less as you just need to replace the inner core and wire next time saving a lot.
regards Chris S.V.Nagisa
I share the concern voiced about butting two chain plates so close to each other.
But, as to your question...
Butyl tape has worked well on my 30 ft. sloop for over 20 years and +/- 10,000 nm.'s.
Your mileage may vary!
I bed chainplates all the time, 3m 4000 is the way to go imo
Doug again, my comment in regard to bedding was in regard to "thru bolting the COVER PLATE, not the chain plate.
Clean a channel in the deck covers around the chain plates and squeeze in a bead of sikaflex. If it's good enough to seal windows and ports it should keep it dry and still allow a bit of flexing under sail...
Hi Tenacity 10 out of 10 MADS ,Great videos and if any one is going to refit a boat a must watch ,take care ,keep moving the lists of jobs to do .
me time with mads!
👍👌🇨🇦❤, Sail Life Sunday, is viewers day, thanks Mads
Changed to butylmastic tape for our chainplates a few years ago after trying every other material known to man. Never looked back.
3:53 Don't clamp down super tight on butyl -- you'll squeeze it out. With curing sealants such as Sikaflex, the usual thing is to allow it to cure with the bolts fairly loose, then tighten up once it has formed a cured gasket. But butyl does not cure, and if you keep squeezing it'll keep flowing. Butyl is great and I use it wherever I can (above the waterline). I expect it'll do well in the chainplates but I'll be interested to see how you get along.
Hi Mads, the Butyl will work great and as you know it is much easier to replace as well. As the folks said below the double plate may need a different approach between the two.
Another well produced video! GOD speed. JC
at 14:33 you should hold your spanner the other way, with the adjustable part towards the rotation, it's less likely to slip then. Great video as usual!
Use Dow Corning 795 around chainplates. It contains an adhesive and doesn't harden.
The coolant reservoir for you engine can be made new again using sulfamic acid
You missed a double entendre there Mads 7:20 "Its certainly going to be a lot easier when Ava moves aboard for I will always have someone to hold my nuts"
I would be sceptic of lekkage between you're two tuching chain plates on the main bulkhead🤔😁
Maybe a double instead of 2 singels next eachother?
My complements for you're patience 💪
Hmmmm, Butyl tape, hmmmm. My first concern is where you have 2 chainplates touching, I'm thinking there may be room between the two for water penetration. Darn water gets through the smallest spaces. As long as the butyl remains flexible I'm thinking it should work pretty well as the chain plates flex a bit.
But, we'll see!
One of the advantages of butyl tape is that it does not harden. I did mine with butyl over three years ago and they don't leak and my boat has been through two (2) hurricanes in that time.
I do share your concern about the two chainplates through the same hole though.