thank you so much for being the only UA-camr to show the cas actually going back in instead of jump cutting to it being assembled again.... I was having a lot of difficulty with it and seeing someone else do it is very encouraging
Hey Chad, I'm glad you found the video useful. I've recently found a few other videos online showing people do this as well. I had a hard time getting my CAS in and out from the side (near the dipstick), so I had to remove my coil pack to take the CAS out and back in. I saw another UA-camr remove a bracket on the side, and he had no problem removing the CAS from the side near the dipstick. It's really not as difficult as it sounds, so when you're doing yours, play around with different options for removal.
Bummer that you had to go through all of that because you didn't want to remove the valve cover. I did mine about a year ago and coupled it with a change of the valve cover gasket, repainting the cover with black crinkle finish and replacing the heater hoses. This made the o-ring fix much easier. Accessing the CAS with the heater hose and valve cover removed was a lot easier than what you had to go through. I also found that there exists an o-ring upgrade with a much higher temperature range which helps to prevent it from cracking and leaking. A bag of ten was around the same price as one OEM replacement. They don't sell them individually, or at least I couldn't find it that way on-line. Nice video though!
Very helpful vid, thanks. I managed to get mine out without removing the coil pack. I moved the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster out of the way by removing the two bolts and popping the rubber grommets out of their keepers. This also helped wrench access to the bolt in the back. Then I kept tilting and twisting the CAS until it could fit by the heater hoses. It was a very specific orientation but it worked.
That brackets tab for the cas is to keep the bolt holding the cas in place. In case it backs out, it won't back out far and still kinda do itd job prolly grt you home. Its a indicatiok of s bygone era where stuff was designed to not break down. And car manufacturers actually had consideration for the customer.
thank you so much for being the only UA-camr to show the cas actually going back in instead of jump cutting to it being assembled again....
I was having a lot of difficulty with it and seeing someone else do it is very encouraging
Hey Chad, I'm glad you found the video useful. I've recently found a few other videos online showing people do this as well. I had a hard time getting my CAS in and out from the side (near the dipstick), so I had to remove my coil pack to take the CAS out and back in. I saw another UA-camr remove a bracket on the side, and he had no problem removing the CAS from the side near the dipstick. It's really not as difficult as it sounds, so when you're doing yours, play around with different options for removal.
Bummer that you had to go through all of that because you didn't want to remove the valve cover. I did mine about a year ago and coupled it with a change of the valve cover gasket, repainting the cover with black crinkle finish and replacing the heater hoses. This made the o-ring fix much easier. Accessing the CAS with the heater hose and valve cover removed was a lot easier than what you had to go through. I also found that there exists an o-ring upgrade with a much higher temperature range which helps to prevent it from cracking and leaking. A bag of ten was around the same price as one OEM replacement. They don't sell them individually, or at least I couldn't find it that way on-line. Nice video though!
Very helpful vid, thanks. I managed to get mine out without removing the coil pack. I moved the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster out of the way by removing the two bolts and popping the rubber grommets out of their keepers. This also helped wrench access to the bolt in the back. Then I kept tilting and twisting the CAS until it could fit by the heater hoses. It was a very specific orientation but it worked.
Start to finish with some clean up and taking my time was about 1hr 15mins for anyone wondering if they want to do this.
That looks like a 4 hour job 😳 now I'm rethinking about doing mine 🤣🤣🤣
That brackets tab for the cas is to keep the bolt holding the cas in place. In case it backs out, it won't back out far and still kinda do itd job prolly grt you home. Its a indicatiok of s bygone era where stuff was designed to not break down. And car manufacturers actually had consideration for the customer.
Nice Intro bro, don't blow your O-Ring!
+GearHeads Thanks for the support! If I blow another, I'll make sure I give a courtesy flush. Haha
Hello, excellent video, do you hear a question? To install CAS 1.8 do I have to time the engine??
Hey Uncle it's me Roquer 👋
Hey Roquer!! Thanks for stopping by to say Hi :)
good video bro 👍
+Miata Gang Garage Hey man, Thanks for watching it!
great info
That weird little cover, to get it off I pulled on it with a pair of pliers. It also helped loosen the bolt on the back of the CAS as well.
Thanks for sharing this!
@@BecauseMiata hell thanks for sharing the rest of your video. For a simple little o-ring, this thing is a massive pain in the ass
yew
hahaha ...