Thanks a lot, Wayne- just replaced the O ring on my 95. Used a Fel-Pro 35608 from AutoZone, just under three bucks. Same part for the thermostat O ring. One thing I should mention: it was impossible to lift out the CAS- no matter which orientation I tried, there simply wasn't enough clearance between the firewall and motor. Maybe a peculiarity to the 95 model year? In any case, with the CAS still trapped between the firewall and motor, I gently cut the old ring with a new matte knife blade, removed it, slid the new ring on, lubed it with a little clean oil from the dipstick, and popped the CAS back in. After tightening up the timing bolt and reconnecting the two wiring clips, she started right up with a quarter turn, and settled to perfect idle as soon as she reached op temp.
@@soapbxprod I am almost positive the magic combo happened off camera because I was frustrated. but I assure you when you are about to give up, it just pops out...
Hi Wayne, I have watched your video and got some vital information. Thanks! My son has got a 1990 Miata and we have just changed the camshaft cover gasket. However, we still have a small oil-leak which we have identified as the CAS oil seal. His car is the 1600 engine with the CAS on the left hand cam under the coil pack.(typical). The car has an automatic gearbox, so not so much worry about oil contamination. Is it going to be easy to get enough space to carry out the "O" ring change without too many problems. Anthony.
Because I been talking about whats happening in the world right now for over a decade and they shadow banned me. try searching for my channel name. never suggests it unless you get every letter correct. i had 3 successful instagrams too, all deleted for various reasons.
@@pawpatina you got suggested to me. That's why I clicked on your video. Have you ever used hashtags in the description or when uploading videos there's a box where you can put words? like labels, to help your video be easier to find in case people didn't write all letters correct or if there're multiple names for the same thing? I don't know but your channel is pretty interesting, I just found it thanks to this video. You did a good job explaining, I'm about to do the same job tomorrow!
@@mihaiserbanescu8676 yea been on here since it started. once i gave up and started doing whatever i waned it started getting better. Thanks! Glad i could help!
Dam, I did the same thing and I thought I was good , but still getting some oil under the bottom part where it makes contact after bolting it back on. Talk to mazda about it too and they couldnt help me at all just trying using some silicon. :/ Thanks for replying fast!!! subbed!
black rtv silicon should be applied to the cas corners where it goes under the valve cover gasket and also at the four corners up front where the cams go under. also could be the valve cover gasket itself or the cas oring got nicked putting it in
Wayne'sWorkVlog so I had a random thought, do you think the o ring I bought doesn't have a high enough heat resistant? The o ring I picked up is a brand called "national "o ring 1-1/2 x 1-3/4 1/8 thickness from oreillys
@@andyvaid69 then if you did the cam belt, that is the timing belt. so set timing properly with TDC piston 1. 19 teeth between each cam mark etc... for the running hot, and didn't do it before? if the system was drained and refilled, then your thermostat was exposed to air and flash rusted shut. otherwise you have other issues. bleed procedure is just run it with cap off, when thermostat opens top off radiator. engine may be full of air. especially if you see the temp gauge jumping around.
I'm not knocking the video, it was very informative. I have an actual Factory Miata shop manual and it says to remove the coil pack. Maybe to keep from disturbing the setting of the sensor being removed?
@@pawpatina I just went through the process of removing the coil pack, because it's bad. It was a pain, needing short metric sockets, which I was lucky to find at pawn shop cheap, and a bent crooked 14/15 metric wrench 🔧for the bottom nut on the coil pack. Another lucky find, this one at flea market. I had already replaced the Cam sensor without pulling the coil pack. (Easy) I have come to the conclusion the reason to pull coil pack as per factory shop manual, to replace Cam sensor is just for the flat rate shop hours to replace the Cam sensor.
Lol, found this just after i struggled to remove, but now know how to pu it back in. Well done explanation- good lighting!
HAHH THANKS!!
Thanks a lot, Wayne- just replaced the O ring on my 95. Used a Fel-Pro 35608 from AutoZone, just under three bucks. Same part for the thermostat O ring. One thing I should mention: it was impossible to lift out the CAS- no matter which orientation I tried, there simply wasn't enough clearance between the firewall and motor. Maybe a peculiarity to the 95 model year? In any case, with the CAS still trapped between the firewall and motor, I gently cut the old ring with a new matte knife blade, removed it, slid the new ring on, lubed it with a little clean oil from the dipstick, and popped the CAS back in. After tightening up the timing bolt and reconnecting the two wiring clips, she started right up with a quarter turn, and settled to perfect idle as soon as she reached op temp.
NICE!!! and no its just tricky to get out and back in. had to grow up playing Tetris I think. lol
@@pawpatina LOL! I swear, I watched you do it over and over like twenty times and still couldn't do it... :)
@@soapbxprod I am almost positive the magic combo happened off camera because I was frustrated. but I assure you when you are about to give up, it just pops out...
I have a 1.6L and just did one. My clutch was ruined, so one little O ring is that important. Thanks for the video.
Hi Wayne, I have watched your video and got some vital information. Thanks! My son has got a 1990 Miata and we have just changed the camshaft cover gasket. However, we still have a small oil-leak which we have identified as the CAS oil seal. His car is the 1600 engine with the CAS on the left hand cam under the coil pack.(typical). The car has an automatic gearbox, so not so much worry about oil contamination. Is it going to be easy to get enough space to carry out the "O" ring change without too many problems. Anthony.
I have only done those once or twice and if i recall you can get it out once you remove the valve cover. pretty easy.
why did this channel not take off massively?
Because I been talking about whats happening in the world right now for over a decade and they shadow banned me. try searching for my channel name. never suggests it unless you get every letter correct. i had 3 successful instagrams too, all deleted for various reasons.
@@pawpatina you got suggested to me. That's why I clicked on your video. Have you ever used hashtags in the description or when uploading videos there's a box where you can put words? like labels, to help your video be easier to find in case people didn't write all letters correct or if there're multiple names for the same thing? I don't know but your channel is pretty interesting, I just found it thanks to this video. You did a good job explaining, I'm about to do the same job tomorrow!
@@mihaiserbanescu8676 yea been on here since it started. once i gave up and started doing whatever i waned it started getting better. Thanks! Glad i could help!
was there still a bit of oil in the space in-between the cas and where it goes after installing the new oring after driving around?
no, clean it off before reinstalling the CAS. and it doesn't leak now.
Dam, I did the same thing and I thought I was good , but still getting some oil under the bottom part where it makes contact after bolting it back on. Talk to mazda about it too and they couldnt help me at all just trying using some silicon. :/ Thanks for replying fast!!! subbed!
black rtv silicon should be applied to the cas corners where it goes under the valve cover gasket and also at the four corners up front where the cams go under. also could be the valve cover gasket itself or the cas oring got nicked putting it in
and thanks for the sub!!!
Wayne'sWorkVlog so I had a random thought, do you think the o ring I bought doesn't have a high enough heat resistant? The o ring I picked up is a brand called "national "o ring 1-1/2 x 1-3/4 1/8 thickness from oreillys
Help a lot! Thanks Man
Hey no problem! thanks for watching!
Hi from London. U have to do the timing etc after removing and reinstalling the cas??
not unless you undo the timing.
scribe it before removal and you don't even need to check the timing.
@@pawpatina u da man!!
Kool. Did it today also cam belt water pump.. New Rad fans etc. Car ran hot after a while. Air lock I think.. Best way to bleed it?
@@andyvaid69 then if you did the cam belt, that is the timing belt. so set timing properly with TDC piston 1. 19 teeth between each cam mark etc... for the running hot, and didn't do it before? if the system was drained and refilled, then your thermostat was exposed to air and flash rusted shut. otherwise you have other issues. bleed procedure is just run it with cap off, when thermostat opens top off radiator. engine may be full of air. especially if you see the temp gauge jumping around.
I'm not knocking the video, it was very informative.
I have an actual Factory Miata shop manual and it says to remove the coil pack.
Maybe to keep from disturbing the setting of the sensor being removed?
nope, its just easier to get to.
@@pawpatina
I just went through the process of removing the coil pack, because it's bad.
It was a pain, needing short metric sockets, which I was lucky to find at pawn shop cheap, and a bent crooked 14/15 metric wrench 🔧for the bottom nut on the coil pack. Another lucky find, this one at flea market.
I had already replaced the Cam sensor without pulling the coil pack. (Easy)
I have come to the conclusion the reason to pull coil pack as per factory shop manual, to replace Cam sensor is just for the flat rate shop hours to replace the Cam sensor.
@@oscardavis7796 always remember, the manual was written by the engineers, not the mechanics...