my humble suggestion about the procedure of this work,if firstly make a "v"groove near to required dimension with the compound rest ,and make a rough shape radius groove using a radius tool, finally finished that the job with the tool you can used in this video showing .it may reduce your physical effort and get more speed to finish your job.any way it is very great effort you did.👍
seen someone use a adjustable holle cutter (for a mill ) for sumtin like this , there adjustable so you can make the radius any size you like using the same tool
Other than the terrible WAAAHHHH noise of your lathe in my headphones, this is fantastic! Now I need to try this. So, I need to make a jig for my crappy Atlas and 2; make sure my steel supplier doesn't screw me for the blanks! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, sorry, it's quite a noisy motor, I took off the old one and replaced it with a larger one which is much louder than it was standard. Some metal suppliers will chop short lengths (2" minimum or so) off a large diameter round bar for parts like this.
The dies I made create a circular channel for the tubes, I went with 0.010 clearance which is 1% of the tube diameter and also the tolerance the tubes are made to. They work just fine.
Nice work James. I was just in a shop yesterday getting a demonstration of a tube bender at work and my immediate thought was how to make my own dies for different sized materials and different finished curvatures. I will also need to make straight followers and there was your UA-cam - half the answer waiting there for me. Well done. The material you used, was it cast iron? Now the next step, making the follower which has a straight section with the matching curve may be a challenge. I was thinking of holding the work end on in a vice and machining on the mill with a boring bar and slowly working outwards with the diameter set in a similar way to how your cutting head ran on the lathe. Any thoughts?
Hi, the steel is EN3B. I've been thinking about a straight follower myself, my plan was to use a ball end mill of the same size as the tube done horizontally on a mill, possibly moving side to side a little at the end to get a slightly larger radius. I'm sure a boring bar would work too.
James, soon I will be lucky enough to collect a second hand tool and cutter grinder from a die making machine factory that was happy to part with one for a good price. The best thing about this is that I will also be able to learn from the staff there how to make stuff on this useful tool. Maybe I could shape a tool that could go on the milling machine that would cut the curve quickly, like a large format ball end mill. Rough it out with a boring bar and finish with the super-sized ball end cutter. I also picked up some super sized drill bits and reamers from a second hand machine shop that is going into liquidation. All I need is an 1-7/16" drill bit and 1-1/2" reamer and slice the end result down the middle and the job would be done quickly. Now all I need is a huge drill press that has a morse 5 or 6 taper head. Not sure if they come that big but that I cannot justify. It never ends. However, today I picked up my markup table that was surface ground across the full width {900mm} with what looked like 2/3rds of the width of the slash grinder disc. The finish is beautiful and smooth. This factory has huge machines. Makes mine look tiny by comparison.
Very nice James. I notice you made dies for different tubing diameters. Did you end up making different sized insert holders and extra posts to manage the different diameters? If the insert holder could slide back and forth and be adjustable (kind of like those lantern style lathe tool holders) would the rigidity be a concern? Thanks, nice video.
That steel is basically SAE 1020. You wont get any hardness to it. See if you can find someone who does industrial hard chrome single step. About .0100 mm.or .0005 inch. It doesn't need to be hammer hard or thick. Just slippery hard if that makes sense.Especially with stainless pipe. It'll gall like hell on plain steel or another piece of stailess but slide right over hard chrome or that Delron some dies are made with
VERY good piece of advise. Some of the chips of this part are long and razor sharp. I hope I didn't do this here without realizing, I do have some pliers to hand I was using which make an appearance here and there.
Would it be an idea to increase rpm to compensate for large diameter (with carbide insert). Maybe get better chips and be quicker? Any pros know the answer?
he talked about it going 600ft/min. That would be about the right speed for any steel that you can harden or 4140 and 4150. For just mild steel it would be a little on the low tho.
That lathe is sold in the US as a Smithy & various knock offs with a mill head, total crap, poorly engineered & worse manufacturing . Do you have some kind of backgear? Mine did not & while you could swing 12" you couldn't turn more than 2-3 because the speed was too high unless you bought their uber expensive planetary reduction sheave.
£300 quid I paid, amazing what you can do with it if you're patient. Usually very patient... 180rpm is the slowest you can go with the standard belts on mine, carbide tooling at this radius is fine.
Excellent video, best one I've seen on making your own dies!!
Brilliant...cheers from the USA, Paul
Wooooow that lathe set up is Legit
Nice job James!
my humble suggestion about the procedure of this work,if firstly make a "v"groove near to required dimension with the compound rest ,and make a rough shape radius groove using a radius tool, finally finished that the job with the tool you can used in this video showing .it may reduce your physical effort and get more speed to finish your job.any way it is very great effort you did.👍
Thank you very much for the video. Now i know to make my pulley.
Great and cool method. Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow and more wisdom always.
Excellent, you know exactly what you are doing, and using home made tooling.
great work but what about the following die can you show making it thanks
Nice work great job, all the best from Birmingham uk 👍
Great idea James!👍
seen someone use a adjustable holle cutter (for a mill ) for sumtin like this , there adjustable so you can make the radius any size you like using the same tool
Excellent idea
hello ... very good job you make it easy to do it ..... it looked dangerous when you pass the sandpaper and you have long sleeves ..... greetings
Your ideas brilliant..amazing...👍👍👍
Other than the terrible WAAAHHHH noise of your lathe in my headphones, this is fantastic! Now I need to try this. So, I need to make a jig for my crappy Atlas and 2; make sure my steel supplier doesn't screw me for the blanks! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, sorry, it's quite a noisy motor, I took off the old one and replaced it with a larger one which is much louder than it was standard. Some metal suppliers will chop short lengths (2" minimum or so) off a large diameter round bar for parts like this.
How did the die work? I was under the assumption that the dies were not a perfect radius. I thought more side clearance that .010 was needed .
The dies I made create a circular channel for the tubes, I went with 0.010 clearance which is 1% of the tube diameter and also the tolerance the tubes are made to. They work just fine.
Great job sir......I like it..... continue to this job God bless you
Brilliant my man that's awesome
Nice job, thanks for sharing.
...,,
Which is the relationship between the tube diameter and the diameter of the Die ???
Got skills mate.
How did you get the blank piece? I mean is it there a rod 250 mm díameter? Soldered seversl pieces or how did you do it?
Nice work James. I was just in a shop yesterday getting a demonstration of a tube bender at work and my immediate thought was how to make my own dies for different sized materials and different finished curvatures. I will also need to make straight followers and there was your UA-cam - half the answer waiting there for me. Well done. The material you used, was it cast iron?
Now the next step, making the follower which has a straight section with the matching curve may be a challenge. I was thinking of holding the work end on in a vice and machining on the mill with a boring bar and slowly working outwards with the diameter set in a similar way to how your cutting head ran on the lathe. Any thoughts?
Hi, the steel is EN3B. I've been thinking about a straight follower myself, my plan was to use a ball end mill of the same size as the tube done horizontally on a mill, possibly moving side to side a little at the end to get a slightly larger radius. I'm sure a boring bar would work too.
James, soon I will be lucky enough to collect a second hand tool and cutter grinder from a die making machine factory that was happy to part with one for a good price. The best thing about this is that I will also be able to learn from the staff there how to make stuff on this useful tool. Maybe I could shape a tool that could go on the milling machine that would cut the curve quickly, like a large format ball end mill. Rough it out with a boring bar and finish with the super-sized ball end cutter. I also picked up some super sized drill bits and reamers from a second hand machine shop that is going into liquidation. All I need is an 1-7/16" drill bit and 1-1/2" reamer and slice the end result down the middle and the job would be done quickly. Now all I need is a huge drill press that has a morse 5 or 6 taper head. Not sure if they come that big but that I cannot justify. It never ends. However, today I picked up my markup table that was surface ground across the full width {900mm} with what looked like 2/3rds of the width of the slash grinder disc. The finish is beautiful and smooth. This factory has huge machines. Makes mine look tiny by comparison.
Sounds like you're getting there! Good luck
Peter Marsh, check with tool supply shops they may have suitable adaptors that can fit in a smaller MT and take that particular MT
Very nice James. I notice you made dies for different tubing diameters. Did you end up making different sized insert holders and extra posts to manage the different diameters? If the insert holder could slide back and forth and be adjustable (kind of like those lantern style lathe tool holders) would the rigidity be a concern? Thanks, nice video.
And I've love to see more of your tube bender and the follow die you may have made.
Very nice job thanks for this trick
it"s wonderful work ! thank you very much
Nice thought
I really love show did you have have video bout tube die how to make it
Thank you very much
i think you turning good.thank you very good
That is brilliant how you are making the Dies. Do you need to harden them before using them?
Hi. I haven't hardened them yet. They are on the machine making parts. At some point I will make some more and then get those ones hardened.
That steel is basically SAE 1020. You wont get any hardness to it. See if you can find someone who does industrial hard chrome single step. About .0100 mm.or .0005 inch. It doesn't need to be hammer hard or thick. Just slippery hard if that makes sense.Especially with stainless pipe. It'll gall like hell on plain steel or another piece of stailess but slide right over hard chrome or that Delron some dies are made with
valveman12
Nice homemade one it's the same toolbit holder l made more than 20 yrs. ago.
excellent job
DONT EVER GRAB SWARF WITH A BARE HAND WITH THE LATHE RUNNING!!!!!!!!!
if it grabs it it will take the skin off you finger like a glove.
VERY good piece of advise. Some of the chips of this part are long and razor sharp. I hope I didn't do this here without realizing, I do have some pliers to hand I was using which make an appearance here and there.
Yep.Done that before,will never do it again lol.
Friend, have you modified the lathe holder or is it original?
I liked the way the tool is stuck.
Wow! Very impressive
Do you know how many mm diameter of this you made need tube 63.5mm?
How much would you charge to make the same die but for 1.25" steel tubing?
Where was the raw material taken from?
James very good
Great job James, exactly what I was needing to know. Tell me were you using 4140 for the die?
i think use thread tip make a good radius
What type of steel did you use?
Seu trabalho é muito bom, obrigado por compartilhar .
Nice job!!!
what type of steel is the die made from?
I’ve been waiting over a month to get one from JD Square
Good job man!! 👍
What is the actual time you used to finish the job?
how much would you charge to make a 1 1/2 die ?
exelente ! saludos desde argentina
How much would it cost?
Nice video
What's the stock composition?
Me gusto su metodo
Gracias
Exelente forma de definir una tarea!! Probaré!
Good job very good..from indonesia
great job!!
Can i order you sir, stainlees pipe bender.?
Great job sir ji
pq q o som tá em estéreo e só tá saindo de um lado?
excellent
Genial desconosia ese metodo gracias
thanks for sharing....
giroo ji aap kaise banaye ho is tool k
Good work Good Job nice think
He sounds like Brian May
ótima solução para um trabalho bem difícil , de ser executado , parabéns!!!!
How did you harden it?
by looking at dirty pictures
It's nice but how can make inside same ??
Would it be an idea to increase rpm to compensate for large diameter (with carbide insert). Maybe get better chips and be quicker? Any pros know the answer?
he talked about it going 600ft/min. That would be about the right speed for any steel that you can harden or 4140 and 4150. For just mild steel it would be a little on the low tho.
Nice
Where did you get 50 or 54mm plate, may i ask!!!
Safety first, you're wearing a long sleeve..
Good 👍👍
why worry about centering the cut, just face it after...
Noice !
No audio
Nice...
le e mandando un correo para una maquina de tubo 2x6 rectangular ..
It was necessary to make at first a flute for simplification!
Exelent
Terbaik 👍
Nice!
Qué habras demora 2 días
Witam Kolegę podoba mi się pomysł świetny pozdrawiam
Mucha velocidad.
بسیار الی
دمتگرم اوستا
Классно. 👍
You should go to woodprix if you'd like to make it yourself mate.
Молодець!
shak
That lathe is sold in the US as a Smithy & various knock offs with a mill head, total crap, poorly engineered & worse manufacturing
. Do you have some kind of backgear? Mine did not & while you could swing 12" you couldn't turn more than 2-3 because the speed was too high unless you bought their uber expensive planetary reduction sheave.
£300 quid I paid, amazing what you can do with it if you're patient. Usually very patient... 180rpm is the slowest you can go with the standard belts on mine, carbide tooling at this radius is fine.
I've got one of the smithy 1340s and it works really well for home hobby use. But it does have some pretty big shortcomings and limitations.
علاء الحداد
Abubakermaher
Nice sir please check my video on diameter radius
d
Sorry friend, your audio is very poor.
you sound weak and about to cry or run away?