The instructions that came with my Cat6 connectors were vague and illegible. My 5 attempts failed, until I stumbled upon this excellent video. Thanks, man.
I got those same connectors years ago, and I could never figure out wtf the spreader thing was for, never used it on a single RJ45 and I've crimped them all now, and still have those left haha. Thanks for making this video, glad to finally know what they're for and how to install them. I'm going to go ahead and say that it's not needed, because I've never had an issue without them, and because most cat6 RJ45s now days do NOT come with them anymore.
The 3-piece connectors from Ideal (at Home Depot) have that last wire guide, but it is not a pass-through. You have to cut the wires short and straight like the video. I agree though, if they are pass-through, cutting them afterward would be better!
Yep. Thanks. Just what I needed. Was always used to RJ45 and Cat5 like I taught in the Cisco Academy. Never worked with these before. Always learning something in IT!
Good video, but people need to remember there are two wiring standards... T568A and T568B. You've shown T568B, which is most common in the USA. It doesn't really matter at the end of the day as long as both ends of the cable are the same standard, but if you're in Australia and most parts of Europe its T568A you should be wiring to. The difference being instead of starting with Orange White at top on pin1, you are starting with Green/White. The sequence for T568A (in the pin order you are showing on the video with the locking tab underneath), is Green/White at the top, then Green, Orange/White, Blue, Blue/White, Orange, Brown/White, and finally Brown at the bottom on pin8. This then affects how you split the cable at the start with the plastic splitter. Instead of putting the Orange and Brown pairs at either end, you put the Green and Brown pairs at the far ends, and keep the Blues and Oranges in the middle portions.
I find the spreader makes things harder (for me). Straighten the wires by running along the back of a knife or something similar with a dull edge. I cut the wires after putting into the wire holder. It doesn't matter if they poke out 1/2 a mm or so.Note that the colour sequence he uses is not standard in Aust or the UK, however it doesn't matter as long as both ends of the cable are the same.
Almost. You can only substitute pairs with pairs. The first 2 wires have top be a matched pair, the middle 2 have to be a matched pair, and the last 2 have to be a matched pair. Wire 3 and 6 have to be a matched pair. The signals on each twist are designed to travel together because it's differential signaling and each pair is different lengths because the number of twists is different to cut down on cross talk.
Is it just me or is the reason why the BLUE pair is reversed because they used to run voice on rj-45 too? (R/T) Thanks - I wanted to make sure I was doing this right. I leave them twisted as close to the pin as humanly possible but I couldn't figure out why it kept going back to 10/100 after a few months You're wiring is called TIA-EIA 568-B (rather than A that have green and orange pair swapped). I've hardly ever seen an 'A' in the field (except for crossover cables). With Cat6 (and 5e gigabit) however - the blue and brown must also be swapped on the other plug Crossover cables are nice if you have nothing (no router, switch, anything) and want to connect "AD-HOC" or ethernet card - ethernet card
For life of me I can not understand why did you cut wires so short prior to inserting it into load bar - it is a pass thru load bar so you trim it after inserting right to the top of the load bar. One more point - the spreader is there to keep the twisted wires as close as possible to load bar so you unwind wires just to the top of the spreader. I think these two points are missing, otherwise all good
OP has probably figured it out by now, but it is basically orange and green reversed; green-white, green, orange-white, blue, blue-white, orange, brown-white, brown.
Quite possibly the worst video I've seen on UA-cam in well over a decade, but then it IS 12 years old and still the only one out there that explains this.
For the life of me, I can't seem to make cables that work, anymore. I bought a huge grocery bag of RJ45s. They just do not work, on any different cable I use. No kick-down of bandwidth. They just do not allow a connection to be made. No lights on the jacks. Period. I tried these 3-piece ones with category 6 cable, and they just barely work. They are loose in the jacks of both my router and switch. It's not the locking tab, it's side-to-side and up-and-down play. Bump the cable passing by, you lose connection. You have to keep removing and inserting it to get a connection. Sometimes it will make a connection, but instead of a gigabit connection, it will be booted down to a 100 mbit one. I guess the days of hand-making cables is over.
Tim Ramich And my other big point is that even if I could make successful cables, these newer connectors are so expensive and can't be bought in bulk. I got the grocery bag of old RJ45s for $40. It has to be well over 1,000 connectors. These newer ones are $18 for 25 of them. That's almost $1 per connector.
The instructions that came with my Cat6 connectors were vague and illegible. My 5 attempts failed, until I stumbled upon this excellent video. Thanks, man.
I got those same connectors years ago, and I could never figure out wtf the spreader thing was for, never used it on a single RJ45 and I've crimped them all now, and still have those left haha. Thanks for making this video, glad to finally know what they're for and how to install them. I'm going to go ahead and say that it's not needed, because I've never had an issue without them, and because most cat6 RJ45s now days do NOT come with them anymore.
Very helpful. I would not have known what to do without this.
Thank you, great vid, has helped me make a few cables. I find it easier to cut the wires _after_ pushing on the second bit of plastic though.
The 3-piece connectors from Ideal (at Home Depot) have that last wire guide, but it is not a pass-through. You have to cut the wires short and straight like the video. I agree though, if they are pass-through, cutting them afterward would be better!
Thank you. I looked everywhere for instructions on how to run the wires through the pair separator.
Yep. Thanks. Just what I needed. Was always used to RJ45 and Cat5 like I taught in the Cisco Academy. Never worked with these before. Always learning something in IT!
Thanks for sharing - Great help for me as I used plugs without load bar in the past
Good video, but people need to remember there are two wiring standards... T568A and T568B. You've shown T568B, which is most common in the USA. It doesn't really matter at the end of the day as long as both ends of the cable are the same standard, but if you're in Australia and most parts of Europe its T568A you should be wiring to. The difference being instead of starting with Orange White at top on pin1, you are starting with Green/White. The sequence for T568A (in the pin order you are showing on the video with the locking tab underneath), is Green/White at the top, then Green, Orange/White, Blue, Blue/White, Orange, Brown/White, and finally Brown at the bottom on pin8. This then affects how you split the cable at the start with the plastic splitter. Instead of putting the Orange and Brown pairs at either end, you put the Green and Brown pairs at the far ends, and keep the Blues and Oranges in the middle portions.
Hi my friend, are you interested in reviewing rj45 crimp tool kit?
It's Cables 2 Go C2G 00890 RJ45 connector.
I find the spreader makes things harder (for me). Straighten the wires by running along the back of a knife or something similar with a dull edge. I cut the wires after putting into the wire holder. It doesn't matter if they poke out 1/2 a mm or so.Note that the colour sequence he uses is not standard in Aust or the UK, however it doesn't matter as long as both ends of the cable are the same.
Almost. You can only substitute pairs with pairs. The first 2 wires have top be a matched pair, the middle 2 have to be a matched pair, and the last 2 have to be a matched pair. Wire 3 and 6 have to be a matched pair. The signals on each twist are designed to travel together because it's differential signaling and each pair is different lengths because the number of twists is different to cut down on cross talk.
thanks for the tutorial mate, appreciate the effort.
The shop must have had some of these laying around and they sent them out today...Oh Hell No!!!..Thank you pass thru connectors.
Thank you you for helping me
Is it just me or is the reason why the BLUE pair is reversed because they used to run voice on rj-45 too? (R/T)
Thanks - I wanted to make sure I was doing this right. I leave them twisted as close to the pin as humanly possible but I couldn't figure out why it kept going back to 10/100 after a few months
You're wiring is called TIA-EIA 568-B (rather than A that have green and orange pair swapped). I've hardly ever seen an 'A' in the field (except for crossover cables).
With Cat6 (and 5e gigabit) however - the blue and brown must also be swapped on the other plug
Crossover cables are nice if you have nothing (no router, switch, anything) and want to connect "AD-HOC" or ethernet card - ethernet card
Thank a lot. Very thank u to post this.
Throw these in the trashcan where they belong and buy pass through RJ45 connectors with a cut off crimp tool you’ll be much happier about it.
For life of me I can not understand why did you cut wires so short prior to inserting it into load bar - it is a pass thru load bar so you trim it after inserting right to the top of the load bar. One more point - the spreader is there to keep the twisted wires as close as possible to load bar so you unwind wires just to the top of the spreader. I think these two points are missing, otherwise all good
How to make a 568A ?
OP has probably figured it out by now, but it is basically orange and green reversed;
green-white, green, orange-white, blue, blue-white, orange, brown-white, brown.
Quite possibly the worst video I've seen on UA-cam in well over a decade, but then it IS 12 years old and still the only one out there that explains this.
Thank you mam
Thank you.
Good video, except you're supposed to add the plastic bits before cutting, and then insert the whole thing.
Thank you!
Thank you!!!
OMG thank you thank you thank you
For the life of me, I can't seem to make cables that work, anymore. I bought a huge grocery bag of RJ45s. They just do not work, on any different cable I use. No kick-down of bandwidth. They just do not allow a connection to be made. No lights on the jacks. Period. I tried these 3-piece ones with category 6 cable, and they just barely work. They are loose in the jacks of both my router and switch. It's not the locking tab, it's side-to-side and up-and-down play. Bump the cable passing by, you lose connection. You have to keep removing and inserting it to get a connection. Sometimes it will make a connection, but instead of a gigabit connection, it will be booted down to a 100 mbit one. I guess the days of hand-making cables is over.
Tim Ramich And my other big point is that even if I could make successful cables, these newer connectors are so expensive and can't be bought in bulk. I got the grocery bag of old RJ45s for $40. It has to be well over 1,000 connectors. These newer ones are $18 for 25 of them. That's almost $1 per connector.
I always wondered why the b standard existed. Leave it to the Americans to feel the need to be different I guess.
Be different? What side of your car has the steering wheel? 90% of the world has it on the left.
@@fabbell5020 including mine...
Thank you!!!