Thanks Jeffrey... I must admit I only did this to learn in case I needed to do it on the road. It's doable, but definitely worth handing over $30 for someone else to do it 😎.
I like the car method for breaking the bead. Haven't seen that before. I'm doing a tire change for the first time this weekend. I'll have to try using zip ties.
@@BigTedInOz I know, I've done some myself, you have to enjoy the editing process the results will show it. Going to change front tire on my FJR tomorrow using this technique. Thanks again for putting in the effort, cheers. FYI, marks movies is my youtube channel, check it out if you are bored sometime.
OK, did the front tire on my FJR, zip tie method worked way better than prying it off and on. One helpful thing i did was to use a wood working clamp to squeeze tire together to easily get the zippies on. This clamp is basically 2 blocks of wood and 2 screws which allows the block to clamp at various angles, also the middle screw can be set and used as a fulcrum, pretty handy things they are. Thanks again for the excellent video.
Tire for front on my 2016 gold wing-dang if I can get the stiff tire to collapse with the ties. When I get ready to take the front tire off. I drill 1/2” hole in center of tread (tire on bike) take a knife and cut the tire in half comes off with ease when you only have little more than your hands to change it.
This is frickin brilliant! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. I love your bead breaker! 37,000 kms on a PR3? Holy crap. I'm lucky to get 9,000. Good tire but my I can't get them to last. Good video! Thanx for this. One thing I might add and will try once spring rolls around up here in Canada is to leave the tire in the sun for a bit to get it softer.
Many thanks! I figured I'd go as far as I could and then take it to a shop if required - no need in the end. Perhaps you're right about the warmth in the tyre making it easier to get off - I was doing it in December - and sweating like a pig!
Fantastic. I certainly appreciate you making all this effort to teach others the tricks to the trade. Shops around here charge $35-50 a tire if you take the tires off the bike yourself and bring them in. Next time I will certainly try myself first.
Love the bead breaker! Hints on the tire irons: stick all under the bead at once (3 or 4 is better than 2) before prying the bead over the rim - that way you are not fighting the tight bead to get the second and subsequent irons under the bead.. Should mention the rim should be well cleaned before sticking on wheel weights. Never used the tie-wrap method and not sure it adds much. Soapy water and the first bead will go over easily and then iron on the second with more soapy water.
Great video. One suggestion. Protect the rotors with something when lifting the bead of the old tire. It's gratifying to do these repairs yourself, not to mention cost saving.
It appeared that you didn't pay any attention to direction of tire rotation or rotation of the tire to place the red dot at the air valve. Greasing the axle shaft is not a good idea. The inner bearing race and axle do not rotare, they are clamped to prevent them from rotating. A light coating of oil is ok to avoid corrosion. Lastly, avoid using red (perment) loctite, use blue if you must, but cleaning bolt threads and tightening with a torque wrench to correct torque value is sufficient. so, if the tire rotation is backwards the tire groves direction are backwards, affecting the tire's ability to channel water away from the contact patch. Placement of red dot at air stem makes balancing easier and can bring the tire in balance with out any weights. Use of red loctite is like creating a rusty joint. Its use complicates future disassembly. still, you gave me some insights that will make the task easier for me, the next time I change my tire. Thanks
YT recommended your video as I was looking at similar. Would this technique be quite so easy on a rear wheel/tyre, a single sided swing arm wheel as well? 190 width tyre. Tyre shops have hydraulic machines which make easy work of changing tyres and also protecting them from damage which could so easily be done with tyre irons to both a rim and a tyre bead. Just a thought.
Hi Alex, I really only did this just to see if it could be done as I was heading out in a trip from Perth to Adelaide. The front was pretty easy, but the rear was impossible. The rear Pirelli for the StT300 was a "GT" - which had extremely stiff side walls. I've not tried it again... as I'm happy to hand over $30 to save the effort 😉. Cheers!
@@BigTedInOz Thank you for your quick reply. Yes the front is easier. I tried the rear of my VFR using tire irons and substantially chewed the edge even with plastic rim protectors. I like you had to give up at my first attempt as like you say it was impossible. I got the first bead off but just couldn't get the second bead over the rim and the tyre off. I guess this is because tyres have to be like this to stop them coming off when they become hot and subject to all the forces they experience. I am actually in the process of using the cable/zip tie method as I write to try again to get the rear tyre off as I must get it off to have my now damaged rim repaired and repainted plus to put a new tyre on. My local bike shop want about 70-75 AUS$ just to remove the tyre which is extortionate. My knees and hands are feeling rather sore. i think once I have my rim repainted and back to square one next time I need new tyres I take it to the shop. Hydraulic machines with plastic fittings to protect rim and tyres make light work of swapping tyres. I'd rather pay in future than struggle. I visited Western Australia and Perth in 1991. It was a fraction of the size it is now from the pictures I have seen. the distances between places were HUGE. I guess your Pan European is a perfect choice of bike in WA. Many thanks and ATB.
Much the same as I do for our ST1100A except that I only remove the RH caliper and the front half of the two piece mudguard only needs to come off. I take the wheel and new tyre to the tyre dealer for the swap over instead of doing it myself.
All went well on my tire change, but I can not get the pin through the front bearings. The last fork will not line up. Any tips or tricks. You did it in the video in a flash..
Wow, that is a bizarre install method with the tie wraps. The rim will pop-right "into" the tire if you stand the tire up and press the rim into the bottom of the tire (you can see the technique here; you don't need the metal thing he uses. It's a lot easier than he shows since he is installing a very stiff dirt bike tire. ua-cam.com/video/9Dw4_VsxN6A/v-deo.html). Lots of soapy water and none of the tie wrap stuff is needed.
hi, it could - depending on the type of tyre. I tried the rear on my ST1300 and couldn't do it as it was a "touring" tyre - much stiffer walls... I just could not get it off the rim.
My Honda is a
2008 ST1300 with 20k miles.
This is a Very Very
nice and
Insightful Video.
Thank You Sir.
This will be saved to my reference library.😮
Thanks Jeffrey... I must admit I only did this to learn in case I needed to do it on the road. It's doable, but definitely worth handing over $30 for someone else to do it 😎.
Thanks Big Ted for a superb video. I like how it’s no nonsense get on with with and well explained. Cheers mate. From NZ.
I like the car method for breaking the bead. Haven't seen that before. I'm doing a tire change for the first time this weekend. I'll have to try using zip ties.
Good instruction and good editing, just what is important to see with out wasting time, well done mate.
Editing is the time consuming part... that took about 3 times as much as the change itself. 😎
@@BigTedInOz I know, I've done some myself, you have to enjoy the editing process the results will show it. Going to change front tire on my FJR tomorrow using this technique. Thanks again for putting in the effort, cheers.
FYI, marks movies is my youtube channel, check it out if you are bored sometime.
OK, did the front tire on my FJR, zip tie method worked way better than prying it off and on. One helpful thing i did was to use a wood working clamp to squeeze tire together to easily get the zippies on. This clamp is basically 2 blocks of wood and 2 screws which allows the block to clamp at various angles, also the middle screw can be set and used as a fulcrum, pretty handy things they are.
Thanks again for the excellent video.
Tire for front on my 2016 gold wing-dang if I can get the stiff tire to collapse with the ties. When I get ready to take the front tire off. I drill 1/2” hole in center of tread (tire on bike) take a knife and cut the tire in half comes off with ease when you only have little more than your hands to change it.
Great video guy! I'm heading to "The Harbor" for some large zip ties later for this. Thank you,,,,,,now go put another shrimp on the "Bobby".
Great demo, will now change my own tyre, many thanks
This is frickin brilliant! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. I love your bead breaker!
37,000 kms on a PR3? Holy crap. I'm lucky to get 9,000. Good tire but my I can't get them to last.
Good video! Thanx for this.
One thing I might add and will try once spring rolls around up here in Canada is to leave the tire in the sun for a bit to get it softer.
Many thanks! I figured I'd go as far as I could and then take it to a shop if required - no need in the end. Perhaps you're right about the warmth in the tyre making it easier to get off - I was doing it in December - and sweating like a pig!
Fantastic. I certainly appreciate you making all this effort to teach others the tricks to the trade. Shops around here charge $35-50 a tire if you take the tires off the bike yourself and bring them in. Next time I will certainly try myself first.
Love the bead breaker! Hints on the tire irons: stick all under the bead at once (3 or 4 is better than 2) before prying the bead over the rim - that way you are not fighting the tight bead to get the second and subsequent irons under the bead.. Should mention the rim should be well cleaned before sticking on wheel weights. Never used the tie-wrap method and not sure it adds much. Soapy water and the first bead will go over easily and then iron on the second with more soapy water.
Excellent video and narration. Make more, they are fantastic mate!
Fabulous job, the commentary is also done well. Am gonna follow your example soon. Thank you for the details n pointers!!!
Very informative video. Thanks for encouraging to DIY.
cool video man, you deserve more subs.
i like that screwdriver stopper for truing the wheel
Great video. One suggestion. Protect the rotors with something when lifting the bead of the old tire. It's gratifying to do these repairs yourself, not to mention cost saving.
It appeared that you didn't pay any attention to direction of tire rotation or rotation of the tire to place the red dot at the air valve. Greasing the axle shaft is not a good idea. The inner bearing race and axle do not rotare, they are clamped to prevent them from rotating. A light coating of oil is ok to avoid corrosion. Lastly, avoid using red (perment) loctite, use blue if you must, but cleaning bolt threads and tightening with a torque wrench to correct torque value is sufficient. so, if the tire rotation is backwards the tire groves direction are backwards, affecting the tire's ability to channel water away from the contact patch. Placement of red dot at air stem makes balancing easier and can bring the tire in balance with out any weights. Use of red loctite is like creating a rusty joint. Its use complicates future disassembly. still, you gave me some insights that will make the task easier for me, the next time I change my tire. Thanks
Great video mate. Thanks!! Excuse me if I missed something.... Did you mention lining up the dot on the tyre with the value ?
Hi Justin, I forgot to do that 😯, but I was lucky that it was within an inch just by chance. 😎
@@BigTedInOz Good luck follows good fellas, ah? Cheers again
Interesting use of cable ties. I always used to get one side on then the other.
Well done mate. Thanks for taking the time to make and post.
Great Video. Good high def camera work..Adding audio later works well.
YT recommended your video as I was looking at similar. Would this technique be quite so easy on a rear wheel/tyre, a single sided swing arm wheel as well? 190 width tyre. Tyre shops have hydraulic machines which make easy work of changing tyres and also protecting them from damage which could so easily be done with tyre irons to both a rim and a tyre bead. Just a thought.
Hi Alex, I really only did this just to see if it could be done as I was heading out in a trip from Perth to Adelaide. The front was pretty easy, but the rear was impossible. The rear Pirelli for the StT300 was a "GT" - which had extremely stiff side walls.
I've not tried it again... as I'm happy to hand over $30 to save the effort 😉.
Cheers!
@@BigTedInOz Thank you for your quick reply. Yes the front is easier. I tried the rear of my VFR using tire irons and substantially chewed the edge even with plastic rim protectors. I like you had to give up at my first attempt as like you say it was impossible. I got the first bead off but just couldn't get the second bead over the rim and the tyre off. I guess this is because tyres have to be like this to stop them coming off when they become hot and subject to all the forces they experience.
I am actually in the process of using the cable/zip tie method as I write to try again to get the rear tyre off as I must get it off to have my now damaged rim repaired and repainted plus to put a new tyre on. My local bike shop want about 70-75 AUS$ just to remove the tyre which is extortionate. My knees and hands are feeling rather sore.
i think once I have my rim repainted and back to square one next time I need new tyres I take it to the shop. Hydraulic machines with plastic fittings to protect rim and tyres make light work of swapping tyres. I'd rather pay in future than struggle.
I visited Western Australia and Perth in 1991. It was a fraction of the size it is now from the pictures I have seen. the distances between places were HUGE. I guess your Pan European is a perfect choice of bike in WA.
Many thanks and ATB.
@@alexmorgan3435 huge indeed! However, I'm riding something German these days :).
If you put a 2x8 or 2x10 under the center stand there is no need to take front fender off. Good video thanks.
You could use a ratchet strap to squeeze the tyre for every cable tie, that would work wonders and no effort at all.
Much the same as I do for our ST1100A except that I only remove the RH caliper and the front half of the two piece mudguard only needs to come off. I take the wheel and new tyre to the tyre dealer for the swap over instead of doing it myself.
Best tire changing video I’ve seen..
Before you cut the zip ties ensure you rotate the tire to the air valve mark!
All went well on my tire change, but I can not get the pin through the front bearings. The last fork will not line up. Any tips or tricks. You did it in the video in a flash..
It sounds like you may have a bent fork. Was it difficult/tight when you removed the axle?
It seemed tight. In the video he tapped the pin out. I will check it out.
Up Date.... I got my son to push the pin while I teetered the bike on the stand to align the tire. So it's on. Thanks for everything.
Thank you big Ted. Great u tube.
Not sure about levering against the brake disc though....
hello you know if you could put a cover 180 55 17 thanks
Great video but every one of these zip tie videos shows putting a front tyre on. It never shows a rear tyre
I did try my rear tyre, but I couldn't even get the old one off the rim. The stiff side walls made it impossible.
@@BigTedInOz I cut the center of the tire all the way around with a razor blade knife and it will come off easily by hand
восхитительно ! )
I'm gonna try this on my m365, I'll let you know!
worked like a charm!
Brilliant. Top work.
Brilliant Aussie inventiveness. well done.
Thanks for the video!
great video all around.
What's on your wrist?
That's the remote control for the Drift Ghost camera. It was a great device but started to fail, & they don't make that design/model anymore.
Very hard job if you not got the right tools.
Wow, that is a bizarre install method with the tie wraps. The rim will pop-right "into" the tire if you stand the tire up and press the rim into the bottom of the tire (you can see the technique here; you don't need the metal thing he uses. It's a lot easier than he shows since he is installing a very stiff dirt bike tire. ua-cam.com/video/9Dw4_VsxN6A/v-deo.html). Lots of soapy water and none of the tie wrap stuff is needed.
Would this technique work with a rear tyre?
hi, it could - depending on the type of tyre. I tried the rear on my ST1300 and couldn't do it as it was a "touring" tyre - much stiffer walls... I just could not get it off the rim.