Hey great video. Very detailed and informative. I just purchased my 2007 ST a few months ago. I love it. Very comfortable ride. I was looking for a video tutorial on changing oil, this one was perfect. Thanks for sharing. Be safe.
Thanks for the detailed video. After viewing, I successfully changed the oil/filter in my 2008 Honda ST1300. It was a little tricky getting the right amount of oil (4 qts) added so that I didn't overfill. As a first timer, the local shop suggested that I remove/add the oil filter while the bike (and exhaust pipe) was cold. No burns. Also, I purchased/installed the K&N filter with the nut. Awesome suggestion! Thanks again! Only wish I was a little neater when draining the oil. Next...adding coolant.
I'll give it a try on the new to me. From the right side as a comment stated. Some types of oil may blow away in the wind like hairs, so my ultimate advice is to not do this in windy weather. Always have enough plastic underneath. Recycle the old oil, some shops have heaters that burn old oil and I used to deliver it there. These oil plug rings are from soft metal. Put them back in the same orientation and clean the drain plug before removal. Study the amount of torque the plug needs (22 foot pounds by manual but being dry. With a little oil on it, more likely round 17 foot pound. The thread is easily stripped from the engine. People do not require torque wrenches, they just stop when the washer is being compressed. Removal of the drain plug is another story. Some are stuck into place and that happens a lot. Warm engines help and treating with penetrating oil the day before. The best penetrating oil is made on demand: 50 percent acetone with 50 percent Automatic Transmission Fluid or final drive oil and keep shaking. Do not use no penetrating oil on a new to you motorcycle. Don't hammer or pull the wrench repeatedly, like many people do. When you followed up my advice, warm engine and penetrating oil, I would say it is most safe to lengthen the socket wrench with a metal bar and it will crack loose in just one pull. The funnels that are commonly used have necks that can bend and a screen at the bottom of them, that some day may safe you. I had oil from unknown origin and it contained a welding droplet. Everyone could want to keep an already opened can because those are large. When filling bottles with the old oil the screen will also reveil small objects. My other Honda (PC800) would not accept a straight neck funnel and the long neck funnel does not have a large volume. Filling soda bottles gives you an idea how much oil should be added back in and you use one of the same preferably for adding. Riding with too much oil and being ok with it is a common mistake. Oils that can slip the wet clutch have friction enhancers like teflon in them. Not any kind of factory gasket material can really withstand full synthetics and the cleaning power may dissolve the dirt from old gaskets, being not always a good thing. Half synthetics are way more gentle. I have read somewhere the oil being low in the inspection window, will show to contain more after the inspection procedure of 3 to 5 minutes running stationary, a 2 to 3 minutes wait and then placing the motorcycle level. Level being on two wheels. I wanted to do the oil inspection safe enough and have fine results placing a shaving mirror on a short stem a little further up front and shining vertically towards the mirror with a LED flashlight. After all oil changes I hear a burp from the oil filter, mostly after a few miles. So I ride fairly slow and wait for it.
I would like to answer to myself. Today I changed the oil and it was very easy from the right side, reaching to the left. Now I am afraid the oil gets stolen. Not any fairing had to be removed and my reservoir, being a pan 7 cm (little less then 3 inches) high, could be put underneath with ease. The engine head cover was a pain to remove. The rear and most close to you corner has a grommet over a steel pin The other rear corner has a rubber ring only but this is in the way. As soon as the grommet is off the pin vertically and you can move despite of the rubber ring having a conflict with a rubber spark plug cap, the plastic is removed horizontally from a rail up front, where two half a centimeter wide clips slide under. The level glass was fine to see from the saddle with a mirror in the hand and bending over. This should be safe enough. It must be checked with the bike level and held up straight. Then still after 3-5 minutes idle (outside temperature difference) and a wait of 2-3 minutes (viscosity). The difference in checking cold was from exactly between min and max to minimum after the procedure. I expect to check the level, engine being cold, at maximum now. Trust me. I use a larger funnel with a screen and the difference was half that funnel filled. The oil plug has a magnet. I fasten bolts with the hand close to the center, or halfway the lever. There was no difference with trying to fasten it tighter. It should be no problem. Did you know police officers on motorcycle can wave at you? What a day. Now the final drive oil change. Did you know you need a small plastic bottle with a piece of, not too wide, tube glued tight to the cap? ATF is very slippery.
Hoi, ik heb zelf ook een pan european st1300 en ik deed tot nu toe steeds de motor binnen in de garage, maar vanaf nu doe ik het ook zelf. Jou video maakt alles duidelijk en ik ben wel een mechanieker, maar sommige dingen vergen toch wel specifieke handelingen en die heb je prima uitgelegd ! Ook dan nog eens extra in de engelse taal , dat maakt het zeer toegankelijk voor het grote publiek! Prima gedaan, ik ben fan !
Synthetic automotive oils are fine as long as they don't have friction modifier additives. Basically, as long as it starts with 10W- or higher, it's fine. I've been running Mobil 1 10W-40 and 15W-50 in multiple motorcycles for decades. Avoid anything with "EC" (Energy Conserving) on the label. By the way, the W stands for Winter, not weight. As in the cold weight of the oil at winter temperatures.
the washer is called a crush washer. and warm oil is less viscous. which means its not as thick and flows better. and the filter doesn't need to be primed. the oil pump will force fluid through the filter anyway. other than that, great job!
Good to know, thanks! It may not be necessary to prime the filter but on some engines it can effect the oil pressure for a few minutes with an unprimed filter. But you are right, you don't have to prime it.
John Cummins/ If you would like a link to a dozen or so self maintenance videos on the ST 1300 send me your email and I will forward them to you. I collect the ST 1300 series and I used to have the ST 1100's. The videos I'll send you are basic maintenance that anyone can do in their garage. If you're not comfortable with sending me your email that's fine. All you have to do is go to UA-cam type in whatever you want for maintenance on the ST 1300 series or any motorcycle and you can view a number of related videos and save them. That way there you have a collection of videos that you can view while you're actually working on your motorcycle. That's what I do. Good luck and happy riding. My email is as follows: NashuaWarren@ hotmail.com
Thanks for the video mate, big help and easy advice. I just did the 1300 for the first time after upgrading from the 1100. As much as I love the new bike, the 1100 had a much easier to access oil filter. 😛
Great video. Very helpful. I've changed the oil twice on my '04 ST1300 (once every year I've owned it) but the video is a great refresher. Funny, I sold my '74 Mini to buy the ST. Good luck with the car. Most fun you can have on four wheels. Subscribed.
Great video mate! Very informative! Thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge and skills via UA-cam. Regards from the Land Down Under. Long live the ST. Jochen
Hi. Good thorough job. Why do you remove the lower left cowling? If you put the bike on the side-stand you can gain easy access to the filter and drain plug from the right side of the bike.
Thanks for the video. Have always changed my own oil on the ST but enjoy looking at a video like this for any extra tips to help save time or reduce chances of making a mistake. Couldn't help but notice the Acura TL in the driveway. We appear to own the same bike and same car :)
Jeezzz Buddy. Get yourself a proper drain pan. Replace the aluminum crush washer only every 3 to 5 changes or if it's visibly thin. Clean the filler cap area as grit can accumulate under it. Compressed air blast if you have it. The oil cap washer might need replacement every 20 changes...maybe. And just add 4.8 ltrs of oil. No need to overthink it. 2006 ST1300 178000 kms, oil/filter changed every 5000 kms religiously. I can do it with my eyes closed and a beer in my right hand.
I have a 2006 st, i don't have to remove any plastic. There is enought space to do the work. The only thing you have to do is to put de central stand up. Put your bike on a front wheel stand, if you have one.
You can certainly do that but I always get oil on the lower cowl if I don't take it off. So it comes off every time when I do it. It is rare that I do an oil change without spilling a drop. Maybe I am just messy!
I have a Honda NT700V ABS and I commute a lot of miles and it is starting to multiple fail and maintenance it is getting a bit too much. So the question is, for the UK, is the ST1300 worth nowadays the investment for long ride versus maintenance?? I travel 154 miles return trip from countryside roads to motorways everyday.
Hi there, mister WrightGarage, I live in the Netherlands to, and I wander where you buy your K&N oil filter, so I can do my own oil change. by the way where in holland do you live?
Great vid. How many miles on your ST? And how often you doing the services? I've just bought a 2nd hand ST, with 20k miles and really has an impressive Honda service history - all oils changed every year regardless of miles. Un decided whether I'll do my own services or not.
Welcome to the ST community! They are great bikes an VERY reliable. I have done over 70k miles on mine and only done regular maintenance. I would highly recommend doing you own services because shops charge a lot due to the time to remove the plastics. FYI your bike should have had a valve inspection/adjustment at 16k. Make sure that was done because some people skip it due to the cost of having it done. I do my oil changed every 3k under normal riding. If I take a long trip I will change it again. I do the final drive oil every 2 oil changes and I do a fork, brake, and clutch flush every 30k
No worries! The clunk you are referring to is completely normal. Some bikes do it more than others. It is the gear catching from neutral and basically picking up the space between the gear. When you shift into first and the clunk does not happen then that is because the gear happens to be perfectly lined up in the transmission. Enjoy the ride my friend!
What is the black wing attachment for right in front of the knees? How may I suppress heat coming from the right side of the engine to my knees especially the right knee. I don't have tank pads now.
+Peter W. Santa-Maria Sr. The pads in front of the knees serve no purpose as far as I am aware. The pads were on the bike when I bought it. As for the heat... I took the tank off and wrapped the frame with heat shield and put a barrier between myself and the engine bay to protect myself from all of that heat. It is great in the winter but in the summer and in traffic it is quite miserable.
I have used only synthetic oil in my motorcycles for over 20 years and never had a clutch slip and several of the bikes were Honda. What you are saying is not true.
+Susan Lurens Sorry for the late response, I have been away. Have you resolved your rear brake pad issue? I highly recommend the ST1300 service manual from Honda. The job is fairly easy and the pads are held in with "pins".
TheWrightGarage is right :-) . You probably already done it but anyone else considering it, go get yourself the Haynes workshop manual, it's very worthwhile. I did a full brake and clutch bleed with this manual, excellent tutorials. If you are not bleeding the brakes, put a couple of feet of clear plastic tube on each bleed valve first, tape it to the side of the bike. Crack the valves remove the old pads and carefully press the pistons back, not with metal, I use an old toothbrush handle. When you have the new pads in, close the valves, pinch the hoses one at a time and remove catching as much of the oils as possible in a jar, top up the master cylinder and give it a few pumps to bring up the pressure. Flush with fresh water as brake oil is water soluble. www.st-owners.com/ has plenty of advice and tutorials. By the way if your bleeding hydraulics and a neighbour comes over to chat, make sure you close the bleed valve or gravity will suck the thing dry and you will waste a lot of fluid getting all the air out :-D.
I have done the final drive oil and the coolant. Final drive is very simple. Lower nut on the final drive is to drain it and the larger nut on the top left is to fill it. Just fill it with 80W-90 gear oil until it drops out. The coolant can be drained from the Lower rad hose or I recommend taking off the water pump and replacing the gasket. This will completely drain the system and you will have a new water pump gasket!
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Hey great video. Very detailed and informative.
I just purchased my 2007 ST a few months ago. I love it. Very comfortable ride. I was looking for a video tutorial on changing oil, this one was perfect.
Thanks for sharing.
Be safe.
Thanks for the detailed video. After viewing, I successfully changed the oil/filter in my 2008 Honda ST1300. It was a little tricky getting the right amount of oil (4 qts) added so that I didn't overfill. As a first timer, the local shop suggested that I remove/add the oil filter while the bike (and exhaust pipe) was cold. No burns. Also, I purchased/installed the K&N filter with the nut. Awesome suggestion! Thanks again! Only wish I was a little neater when draining the oil. Next...adding coolant.
I'll give it a try on the new to me. From the right side as a comment stated.
Some types of oil may blow away in the wind like hairs, so my ultimate advice is to not do this in windy weather. Always have enough plastic underneath.
Recycle the old oil, some shops have heaters that burn old oil and I used to deliver it there.
These oil plug rings are from soft metal. Put them back in the same orientation and clean the drain plug before removal.
Study the amount of torque the plug needs (22 foot pounds by manual but being dry. With a little oil on it, more likely round 17 foot pound. The thread is easily stripped from the engine. People do not require torque wrenches, they just stop when the washer is being compressed. Removal of the drain plug is another story. Some are stuck into place and that happens a lot. Warm engines help and treating with penetrating oil the day before. The best penetrating oil is made on demand: 50 percent acetone with 50 percent Automatic Transmission Fluid or final drive oil and keep shaking. Do not use no penetrating oil on a new to you motorcycle. Don't hammer or pull the wrench repeatedly, like many people do. When you followed up my advice, warm engine and penetrating oil, I would say it is most safe to lengthen the socket wrench with a metal bar and it will crack loose in just one pull.
The funnels that are commonly used have necks that can bend and a screen at the bottom of them, that some day may safe you. I had oil from unknown origin and it contained a welding droplet. Everyone could want to keep an already opened can because those are large. When filling bottles with the old oil the screen will also reveil small objects. My other Honda (PC800) would not accept a straight neck funnel and the long neck funnel does not have a large volume.
Filling soda bottles gives you an idea how much oil should be added back in and you use one of the same preferably for adding. Riding with too much oil and being ok with it is a common mistake.
Oils that can slip the wet clutch have friction enhancers like teflon in them. Not any kind of factory gasket material can really withstand full synthetics and the cleaning power may dissolve the dirt from old gaskets, being not always a good thing. Half synthetics are way more gentle.
I have read somewhere the oil being low in the inspection window, will show to contain more after the inspection procedure of 3 to 5 minutes running stationary, a 2 to 3 minutes wait and then placing the motorcycle level. Level being on two wheels. I wanted to do the oil inspection safe enough and have fine results placing a shaving mirror on a short stem a little further up front and shining vertically towards the mirror with a LED flashlight.
After all oil changes I hear a burp from the oil filter, mostly after a few miles. So I ride fairly slow and wait for it.
I would like to answer to myself. Today I changed the oil and it was very easy from the right side, reaching to the left. Now I am afraid the oil gets stolen. Not any fairing had to be removed and my reservoir, being a pan 7 cm (little less then 3 inches) high, could be put underneath with ease. The engine head cover was a pain to remove. The rear and most close to you corner has a grommet over a steel pin The other rear corner has a rubber ring only but this is in the way. As soon as the grommet is off the pin vertically and you can move despite of the rubber ring having a conflict with a rubber spark plug cap, the plastic is removed horizontally from a rail up front, where two half a centimeter wide clips slide under.
The level glass was fine to see from the saddle with a mirror in the hand and bending over. This should be safe enough. It must be checked with the bike level and held up straight. Then still after 3-5 minutes idle (outside temperature difference) and a wait of 2-3 minutes (viscosity). The difference in checking cold was from exactly between min and max to minimum after the procedure. I expect to check the level, engine being cold, at maximum now. Trust me. I use a larger funnel with a screen and the difference was half that funnel filled.
The oil plug has a magnet. I fasten bolts with the hand close to the center, or halfway the lever. There was no difference with trying to fasten it tighter. It should be no problem. Did you know police officers on motorcycle can wave at you? What a day.
Now the final drive oil change. Did you know you need a small plastic bottle with a piece of, not too wide, tube glued tight to the cap? ATF is very slippery.
Thanks. Very helpful video. I just got a 2006 ST1300 a week ago. Great bike.
Hoi, ik heb zelf ook een pan european st1300 en ik deed tot nu toe steeds de motor binnen in de garage, maar vanaf nu doe ik het ook zelf. Jou video maakt alles duidelijk en ik ben wel een mechanieker, maar sommige dingen vergen toch wel specifieke handelingen en die heb je prima uitgelegd ! Ook dan nog eens extra in de engelse taal , dat maakt het zeer toegankelijk voor het grote publiek! Prima gedaan, ik ben fan !
Synthetic automotive oils are fine as long as they don't have friction modifier additives. Basically, as long as it starts with 10W- or higher, it's fine. I've been running Mobil 1 10W-40 and 15W-50 in multiple motorcycles for decades. Avoid anything with "EC" (Energy Conserving) on the label. By the way, the W stands for Winter, not weight. As in the cold weight of the oil at winter temperatures.
Great video! You really have a talent to explain things and give nice tips right around.
Would love to see more of them with this famous bike.
the washer is called a crush washer. and warm oil is less viscous. which means its not as thick and flows better. and the filter doesn't need to be primed. the oil pump will force fluid through the filter anyway. other than that, great job!
Good to know, thanks! It may not be necessary to prime the filter but on some engines it can effect the oil pressure for a few minutes with an unprimed filter. But you are right, you don't have to prime it.
Man your video is absolutely spot on.. thank you for making it
great video . looking at getting a pan st1300 .might be coming back to you for advice. thanks for taking the time to share.
Much appreciated , I've always done my own oil changes , however not being familiar with ST intricacies I found your video helpful.cheers
Another hint, don't buy expensive oil sold as 'motorcycle oil'. 10W-40 API-SG or higher is the same oil regardless.
Thank you very much for providing me with this very informative video! I'm hoping you'll do a few more about the servicing of our own ST1300's.
JC.
John Cummins/ If you would like a link to a dozen or so self maintenance videos on the ST 1300 send me your email and I will forward them to you. I collect the ST 1300 series and I used to have the ST 1100's. The videos I'll send you are basic maintenance that anyone can do in their garage. If you're not comfortable with sending me your email that's fine. All you have to do is go to UA-cam type in whatever you want for maintenance on the ST 1300 series or any motorcycle and you can view a number of related videos and save them. That way there you have a collection of videos that you can view while you're actually working on your motorcycle. That's what I do. Good luck and happy riding. My email is as follows: NashuaWarren@ hotmail.com
Thanks for the video mate, big help and easy advice. I just did the 1300 for the first time after upgrading from the 1100. As much as I love the new bike, the 1100 had a much easier to access oil filter. 😛
Thank you for posting this video, I'm considering doing the oil change myself too.
Great video. Very helpful. I've changed the oil twice on my '04 ST1300 (once every year I've owned it) but the video is a great refresher. Funny, I sold my '74 Mini to buy the ST. Good luck with the car. Most fun you can have on four wheels. Subscribed.
Great video mate! Very informative! Thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge and skills via UA-cam. Regards from the Land Down Under. Long live the ST.
Jochen
Thank you for your support! The ST is about due for a valve adjustment so look out for that video within the month.
you can use diesel oil instead of pricey M/C oil..diesel oil has added zinc compounds and works great , many riders use it successfully
Perfect! Just what I needed to see. Thanks for sharing!!
Hello from France, great vidéo ! Thank you very mutch👍✌️
Nice windscreen bro! Great video, thanks for sharing!
Nice !, I'm pickup up an 07 ST next week, same in go-faster black with a top box. Twins !.
It's a nice bike, enjoy the ride!
Thank you for your time...!!
Hi. Good thorough job. Why do you remove the lower left cowling? If you put the bike on the side-stand you can gain easy access to the filter and drain plug from the right side of the bike.
Thanks for the video. Have always changed my own oil on the ST but enjoy looking at a video like this for any extra tips to help save time or reduce chances of making a mistake. Couldn't help but notice the Acura TL in the driveway. We appear to own the same bike and same car :)
Great vid. Very detailed. Gave me the confidence to do it myself.
Awesome! Let me know if you need anything else!
I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve owned my ST1300 for 6 months and figured it’s time to find out how to check the oil
Thanks for this video very useful, can You make a video for change the temperature sensor?
Jeezzz Buddy. Get yourself a proper drain pan.
Replace the aluminum crush washer only every 3 to 5 changes or if it's visibly thin.
Clean the filler cap area as grit can accumulate under it. Compressed air blast if you have it.
The oil cap washer might need replacement every 20 changes...maybe.
And just add 4.8 ltrs of oil. No need to overthink it.
2006 ST1300 178000 kms, oil/filter changed every 5000 kms religiously. I can do it with my eyes closed and a beer in my right hand.
Excellent job learn a lot from you . Thanks
Thank you and good to hear! I wish everyone had the willingness to work on their own vehicles.
Excellent advice
Excelente, very good vídeo, thanks.
Great Job!!!
I have a 2006 st, i don't have to remove any plastic. There is enought space to do the work. The only thing you have to do is to put de central stand up. Put your bike on a front wheel stand, if you have one.
You can certainly do that but I always get oil on the lower cowl if I don't take it off. So it comes off every time when I do it. It is rare that I do an oil change without spilling a drop. Maybe I am just messy!
Yes very good video , thanks
oil level check should be performed both wheel touching the ground.
I have a Honda NT700V ABS and I commute a lot of miles and it is starting to multiple fail and maintenance it is getting a bit too much. So the question is, for the UK, is the ST1300 worth nowadays the investment for long ride versus maintenance??
I travel 154 miles return trip from countryside roads to motorways everyday.
Hi there, mister WrightGarage, I live in the Netherlands to, and I wander where you buy your K&N oil filter, so I can do my own oil change. by the way where in holland do you live?
Great vid. How many miles on your ST? And how often you doing the services? I've just bought a 2nd hand ST, with 20k miles and really has an impressive Honda service history - all oils changed every year regardless of miles. Un decided whether I'll do my own services or not.
Welcome to the ST community! They are great bikes an VERY reliable. I have done over 70k miles on mine and only done regular maintenance. I would highly recommend doing you own services because shops charge a lot due to the time to remove the plastics. FYI your bike should have had a valve inspection/adjustment at 16k. Make sure that was done because some people skip it due to the cost of having it done. I do my oil changed every 3k under normal riding. If I take a long trip I will change it again. I do the final drive oil every 2 oil changes and I do a fork, brake, and clutch flush every 30k
No worries! The clunk you are referring to is completely normal. Some bikes do it more than others. It is the gear catching from neutral and basically picking up the space between the gear. When you shift into first and the clunk does not happen then that is because the gear happens to be perfectly lined up in the transmission. Enjoy the ride my friend!
😉👍
Great video!! What is the company and model of the back trunk, looks great?
OEM Honda trunk for a Pan European
@@TheWrightGarage Thanks for getting back to me.
I have an '08 and I live in Miami.
Thank you helps a lot
Thank you
Semi or fully synt oil???
Where did you get the rear set decal/sticker protectors?
What is the black wing attachment for right in front of the knees? How may I suppress heat coming from the right side of the engine to my knees especially the right knee. I don't have tank pads now.
+Peter W. Santa-Maria Sr. The pads in front of the knees serve no purpose as far as I am aware. The pads were on the bike when I bought it. As for the heat... I took the tank off and wrapped the frame with heat shield and put a barrier between myself and the engine bay to protect myself from all of that heat. It is great in the winter but in the summer and in traffic it is quite miserable.
Great bike wrap the pipes with one inch heat tape that will fix the heat problem
Matt Wright! Intelligence asset?
I'm thinking of changing my 2005 Kawasaki Nomad 1600 for a Honda ST1300. Any honest thoughts and opinions?
Do it
I have used only synthetic oil in my motorcycles for over 20 years and never had a clutch slip and several of the bikes were Honda. What you are saying is not true.
hi there trying to find a video on how to change rear brake pads on a st1300
+Susan Lurens Sorry for the late response, I have been away. Have you resolved your rear brake pad issue? I highly recommend the ST1300 service manual from Honda. The job is fairly easy and the pads are held in with "pins".
TheWrightGarage is right :-) . You probably already done it but anyone else considering it, go get yourself the Haynes workshop manual, it's very worthwhile. I did a full brake and clutch bleed with this manual, excellent tutorials. If you are not bleeding the brakes, put a couple of feet of clear plastic tube on each bleed valve first, tape it to the side of the bike. Crack the valves remove the old pads and carefully press the pistons back, not with metal, I use an old toothbrush handle. When you have the new pads in, close the valves, pinch the hoses one at a time and remove catching as much of the oils as possible in a jar, top up the master cylinder and give it a few pumps to bring up the pressure. Flush with fresh water as brake oil is water soluble. www.st-owners.com/ has plenty of advice and tutorials. By the way if your bleeding hydraulics and a neighbour comes over to chat, make sure you close the bleed valve or gravity will suck the thing dry and you will waste a lot of fluid getting all the air out :-D.
i would have cleaned around oil filler hole before unscrewing it
DO U DO HOUSE VISITS?
Have you done the drive shaft oil and the coolant?
I have done the final drive oil and the coolant. Final drive is very simple. Lower nut on the final drive is to drain it and the larger nut on the top left is to fill it. Just fill it with 80W-90 gear oil until it drops out. The coolant can be drained from the Lower rad hose or I recommend taking off the water pump and replacing the gasket. This will completely drain the system and you will have a new water pump gasket!
this kn oil fitler like to blown away when you ride........ big shit i see it twice in my bike f4i and in friends r6
👍
Use a tripod man, your filming is making me feel sick, can't watch.
Or... get a mate to help you videoing. This was a very informative and planned video