Cheer Jeremy, it good to have this video out there so I can refer people to it. I get asked heaps about settings, so know I can direct them to this to get an overview, cheers mate! 👍
the one tip I got from your videos a few years ago that has been a game changer for me ever since Andrew was the use of 'Back Button Focus'. Great video for those getting to grips with their camera and also a treat to see some of your great images from the past few years.
That's great mate, BBF was one of those game changers for me as well. Once I got used to it, BBF made focusing out in the field so much easier. It was fun going through some of the older images as well as the older videos from years past. Hope you have a great weekend. 👍
I have my XT3 settings to all that you described in your video. Another important setting (well I think it is) is having the "Electronic Level" active not just for the horizonal pitch but also the vertical pitch, especially when creating panoramas. Yet another awesome video mate 👍🇦🇺
Cheers Shane, thanks so much for your suggestion. This is actually a great feature to have set up. I might have to come out with a part 2 down the track and include a few of advanced functions. Thanks again for your comment and support mate! 👍
Thanks John, tried to get this down to the essential settings, conscious of not drawing it out just for watch time! 😀 Cheers for the feedback mate, hope you're having a good weekend and not getting too wet over there! 👍
I use the XT3 as my main camera next to the XT2. ISO 640 I use a lot in the woodland the get enough shutterspeed. And frankly I do not see any image degredation when using ISO 640. So for me a lot of times ISO 640 is the "base ISO". I shoot with the fujifilm primes and never go above F8. To my believe a larger depth of field is not needed. For me details at a long distance is not exactly to be called "natural". Beautiful photographs and as always an infromative video.
I recognise that little cove you featured in this video, a little drive south of Dunsborough. Had a few late arvo shoots in there, all alone, while the crowds swarm to the popular spot on the other side. Can’t beat it. Awesome vid mate well presented. 🙏
Haha, yes this is one of my favourite little spot to shoot around Dunsborough. Away from the crowds just a few hundred meters up the coast 😀 Thanks for the feedback mate, I appreciate it! 👍
Cheers Jörg, wanted this to be concise and to the point, so thanks for that mate! Haha, hopefully it wasn't too much like a lecture. Practicing for a possible online course perhaps down the track maybe! 😀👍
@@Andrew_marr nah, no worries, the inbetween clips of actuall trips and locations kept it very entertaining and loosend it up (I have no idea if that word makes any sense in this context. We say "auflockern" in the meaning of taking the weight out of something like lectures or even dough 😋) Wonderful to hear you're planing or preparing for lectures. This for sure is not everyones dish but you've got it all: knowledge, didactics, audience and passion. Let me know if you need some kind of sparring partner or alphatester at any time 👍
Haha, thanks for that just playing around with some ideas at this stage. It'll take some time, to plan and get the structure right. I want to auflockern the content so it's not too heavy...did I get that right? 😁😂 I'll let you know how I go! 👍
Great information there Andrew. Your settings etc are very similar to mine. Not sure if you have one, but my 6d has a menu page where I can set up most used settings, and I find I use it quite a lot. One additional setting I use a bit is the crop marks on the LCD so I can compose direct to that crop. It takes a normal shot, but I can see what a particular crop, such as a 1:1 or 16:9 might look like before I hit the shutter button. Anyway, great video and tons of good info there.
Hey Andrew, love the idea of having all the 'important' setting accessible under the one menu. Plus being able to view what the image may look like cropped on the LCD is very helpful, it's great that it still takes the shot at the full crop so you have all the pixels to play with in post! 👍
When using the self timer, on the XT4 GFX50R GFX 100 and 100s, but not on XT3 or earlier model, there is a setting that will allow the camera to remember what you have the self timer set for. Very useful as the camera goes to sleep and those settings are gone right in the middle of a shoot.
Yeah, I've had that where the timer has reset after going to sleep. Good to know the 100S will remember what the timer is set at, that could come in handy 😊🤔
Great concise video Andrew, cheers. I've never been to Perth or anywhere on the west coast, I live on the Gold Coast, I was wondering when you'd get your most/best seascapes over there, sunrise or sunset? A bit of cloud in the morning lights up the sky and the ocean here but the high-rises and hinterland mountains give very limited sunset seascape photos. Eagerly awaiting part 2 of The Kimberleys series. Keep them coming please. If you run out of them, then go back and get some more, haha.
Cheers Craig, this is a subject that I could talk about for hours but I didn't want to video to go on too long. I was hoping to create a helpful resource that people could refer back to. Sunsets are best in the west! :) The challenge though in the west is there we have a strong sea breeze that comes in most days and kick up the waves in the evenings. Things are much calmer in the mornings and we can get a bit of colour caught by the clouds in the opposite direction to the where the sun is setting. We are luck with such an extensive coastline, that we have bay that will point to the east, north and south, provide an alternative perspective on any sunset or sunrise. There are a few more videos from the Kimberley to come, then I'm out of content. Luckily I'm planning the next trip as we speak! 🤔😀
Very good video! Fuji recommends always shooting at ISO800 for better highlights and shadows. Did you also notice that or does that only concern JPEGs? Also the photonstophotons DR shadow improvement vs ISO chart says that ISO800 gives you a boost. That confuses me a bit :) (In the past I always shot either at base ISO or ISO800 because of that, not in between)
Hmmm...that's interesting. I haven't seen or heard that. I'm a little confused at what the reason might be behind that information. Where did you see it? I might have to do a little research. :) Thanks for your comment, very interesting! 👍
@@Andrew_marr i saw it in my Fuji X-H1 book (German) where the author mentioned it. There it says that Fuji even recommends using ISO800 in bright daylight. But not sure if they also improved the dynamic range setting then and therefore only meant JPEGs. I always struggled with highlights after I moved from Nikon to Fuji and ISO 800 really improves that in my experience in tough conditions. (I shoot only RAW) But of course you get some fine grain. Then I saw the photons to photos ISO/dynamic range chart here: www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR_Shadow.htm But I have to admit that I don't understand it 100 % yet :)
Tough to just pick two and it depends on what you're shooting. I love shooting landscape wide so a 17-35mm is a must, I love the reach of a 70-200mm, but a 24-70mm is a great middle ground that fills the gap between the other two lens.
I have to disagree with "best settings" because the best settings are the ones you need for the lighting condition. The only variable that mostly remains the same is your ISO which is normally set at 100 or lower. But the rest is all based on the lighting conditions. If you shoot in raw WB can be fixed in post later anyway. Shoot to the conditions and shoot how you want to shoot.
Thanks for your comment Ross. As I said in the intro, these are the settings that I think are more important. I agree, what the setting actually are will depend on the scene you are shooting, the available light and the effect you are trying to achieve. "Shoot to the conditions and shoot how you want to shoot" sounds reasonable, however those who are just getting into landscape photography or are looking to improve their landscape images are after a little more guidance and that's what I'm trying to provide through this video. 😀
Great video and explanation legend!.
Cheer Jeremy, it good to have this video out there so I can refer people to it. I get asked heaps about settings, so know I can direct them to this to get an overview, cheers mate! 👍
Another great and informative video, thank you.
Cheers David, I appreciate your feedback mate. Glad you found this one interesting, thanks!
I recently purchased the XT3 and this video will be of great help . Love your work and I’m looking forward to more informational videos like this.
Awesome, thank you Greg! So pleased to hear this is going to be a helpful resource for you mate. Thanks for your comment! 👍
Wise words.
Excellent video
Thank you
In a word Terrific and in another Thankyou.
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed this one! 👍
the one tip I got from your videos a few years ago that has been a game changer for me ever since Andrew was the use of 'Back Button Focus'. Great video for those getting to grips with their camera and also a treat to see some of your great images from the past few years.
That's great mate, BBF was one of those game changers for me as well. Once I got used to it, BBF made focusing out in the field so much easier. It was fun going through some of the older images as well as the older videos from years past. Hope you have a great weekend. 👍
Great video Andrew. There are so many setting options, you do a great job of describing each of them and why you choose the settings you do.
Glad you liked this video Gary, thank mate! Was trying to be concise and to the point otherwise the video may have turned into a long one, cheers! 👍
I have my XT3 settings to all that you described in your video. Another important setting (well I think it is) is having the "Electronic Level" active not just for the horizonal pitch but also the vertical pitch, especially when creating panoramas. Yet another awesome video mate 👍🇦🇺
Cheers Shane, thanks so much for your suggestion. This is actually a great feature to have set up. I might have to come out with a part 2 down the track and include a few of advanced functions. Thanks again for your comment and support mate! 👍
@@Andrew_marr I will be keeping an eye out for the part 2 if you end up doing it mate! Keep up the great informative videos mate......
Great video Andrew. Concise and very informative. As always the images that you use in your videos are superb.
Thanks John, tried to get this down to the essential settings, conscious of not drawing it out just for watch time! 😀 Cheers for the feedback mate, hope you're having a good weekend and not getting too wet over there! 👍
Great video. Many thanks to you.
Glad you liked it Colin, thanks for your comment mate! 👍
It’s nice to see your video again, great and useful to share, have a nice weekend Andrew ☺️
Thanks Chen, two videos in two weeks 😲 I don't know what's happening 🤣 Hope you have a good weekend as well. 👍
Thanks for sharing... Great location & comments Andrew... I am always learning from your videos... Cheers..
Very helpful video thank you for it
Cheers Nikos, glad you found this one helpful! 👍 Thanks for leaving a comment. 😀
Great video images that you use in your videos are superb and amazing.thank for sharing
Great video Andrew this is very applicable for moi! Keep them coming buddy some good tips in this one.
I use the XT3 as my main camera next to the XT2. ISO 640 I use a lot in the woodland the get enough shutterspeed. And frankly I do not see any image degredation when using ISO 640. So for me a lot of times ISO 640 is the "base ISO". I shoot with the fujifilm primes and never go above F8. To my believe a larger depth of field is not needed. For me details at a long distance is not exactly to be called "natural". Beautiful photographs and as always an infromative video.
I recognise that little cove you featured in this video, a little drive south of Dunsborough. Had a few late arvo shoots in there, all alone, while the crowds swarm to the popular spot on the other side. Can’t beat it.
Awesome vid mate well presented. 🙏
Haha, yes this is one of my favourite little spot to shoot around Dunsborough. Away from the crowds just a few hundred meters up the coast 😀 Thanks for the feedback mate, I appreciate it! 👍
Nice succinct explanation, Andrew. I'll make a note of Dunsborough in case we're ever let back in to Oz!
Good one Andrew. Very compact allround settings episode. It shows that you've got a strong background in education/teaching. 👍 Thanks for sharing. 🌈🍻
Cheers Jörg, wanted this to be concise and to the point, so thanks for that mate! Haha, hopefully it wasn't too much like a lecture. Practicing for a possible online course perhaps down the track maybe! 😀👍
@@Andrew_marr nah, no worries, the inbetween clips of actuall trips and locations kept it very entertaining and loosend it up (I have no idea if that word makes any sense in this context. We say "auflockern" in the meaning of taking the weight out of something like lectures or even dough 😋)
Wonderful to hear you're planing or preparing for lectures. This for sure is not everyones dish but you've got it all: knowledge, didactics, audience and passion. Let me know if you need some kind of sparring partner or alphatester at any time 👍
Haha, thanks for that just playing around with some ideas at this stage. It'll take some time, to plan and get the structure right. I want to auflockern the content so it's not too heavy...did I get that right? 😁😂 I'll let you know how I go! 👍
@@Andrew_marr haha, exactly... Sometimes I have the impression we need to massively auflockern the whole world 🧐🙈🙂🍻
@@jiffijoff9780 haha, absolutely! 🤣
Great information there Andrew. Your settings etc are very similar to mine. Not sure if you have one, but my 6d has a menu page where I can set up most used settings, and I find I use it quite a lot. One additional setting I use a bit is the crop marks on the LCD so I can compose direct to that crop. It takes a normal shot, but I can see what a particular crop, such as a 1:1 or 16:9 might look like before I hit the shutter button. Anyway, great video and tons of good info there.
Hey Andrew, love the idea of having all the 'important' setting accessible under the one menu. Plus being able to view what the image may look like cropped on the LCD is very helpful, it's great that it still takes the shot at the full crop so you have all the pixels to play with in post! 👍
When using the self timer, on the XT4 GFX50R GFX 100 and 100s, but not on XT3 or earlier model, there is a setting that will allow the camera to remember what you have the self timer set for. Very useful as the camera goes to sleep and those settings are gone right in the middle of a shoot.
Yeah, I've had that where the timer has reset after going to sleep. Good to know the 100S will remember what the timer is set at, that could come in handy 😊🤔
Great concise video Andrew, cheers. I've never been to Perth or anywhere on the west coast, I live on the Gold Coast, I was wondering when you'd get your most/best seascapes over there, sunrise or sunset? A bit of cloud in the morning lights up the sky and the ocean here but the high-rises and hinterland mountains give very limited sunset seascape photos. Eagerly awaiting part 2 of The Kimberleys series. Keep them coming please. If you run out of them, then go back and get some more, haha.
Cheers Craig, this is a subject that I could talk about for hours but I didn't want to video to go on too long. I was hoping to create a helpful resource that people could refer back to. Sunsets are best in the west! :) The challenge though in the west is there we have a strong sea breeze that comes in most days and kick up the waves in the evenings. Things are much calmer in the mornings and we can get a bit of colour caught by the clouds in the opposite direction to the where the sun is setting. We are luck with such an extensive coastline, that we have bay that will point to the east, north and south, provide an alternative perspective on any sunset or sunrise. There are a few more videos from the Kimberley to come, then I'm out of content. Luckily I'm planning the next trip as we speak! 🤔😀
Very good video!
Fuji recommends always shooting at ISO800 for better highlights and shadows. Did you also notice that or does that only concern JPEGs?
Also the photonstophotons DR shadow improvement vs ISO chart says that ISO800 gives you a boost.
That confuses me a bit :)
(In the past I always shot either at base ISO or ISO800 because of that, not in between)
Hmmm...that's interesting. I haven't seen or heard that. I'm a little confused at what the reason might be behind that information. Where did you see it? I might have to do a little research. :) Thanks for your comment, very interesting! 👍
@@Andrew_marr i saw it in my Fuji X-H1 book (German) where the author mentioned it. There it says that Fuji even recommends using ISO800 in bright daylight. But not sure if they also improved the dynamic range setting then and therefore only meant JPEGs. I always struggled with highlights after I moved from Nikon to Fuji and ISO 800 really improves that in my experience in tough conditions. (I shoot only RAW) But of course you get some fine grain.
Then I saw the photons to photos ISO/dynamic range chart here: www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR_Shadow.htm
But I have to admit that I don't understand it 100 % yet :)
Which one is the two lenses you must have for your landscape photography?
Tough to just pick two and it depends on what you're shooting. I love shooting landscape wide so a 17-35mm is a must, I love the reach of a 70-200mm, but a 24-70mm is a great middle ground that fills the gap between the other two lens.
I have to disagree with "best settings" because the best settings are the ones you need for the lighting condition. The only variable that mostly remains the same is your ISO which is normally set at 100 or lower. But the rest is all based on the lighting conditions. If you shoot in raw WB can be fixed in post later anyway. Shoot to the conditions and shoot how you want to shoot.
Thanks for your comment Ross. As I said in the intro, these are the settings that I think are more important. I agree, what the setting actually are will depend on the scene you are shooting, the available light and the effect you are trying to achieve. "Shoot to the conditions and shoot how you want to shoot" sounds reasonable, however those who are just getting into landscape photography or are looking to improve their landscape images are after a little more guidance and that's what I'm trying to provide through this video. 😀