Thanks for the video! Epic Z now running. Unbelievable how well the wire trick worked. Drying a second load now. Couldn't get reasonably priced board replacement. Will brag on this video more in a few months if it holds up 🤞
This is really cool! I have the same dryer and found that the motor relay burned as well. I dont have the skills to replace that, so I am replacing the control board with one from ebay
That is a very good question and I don't know. That's part of the reason I put that copper jumper wire in. I think the load is variable depending on how heavy the material that is being dried is. The owner of the dryer said his wife was washing heavy throw rugs and then putting them in the dryer and he thinks that was the cause.
My client gave me the relay to install. He got it be putting the numbers on the relay into a search and came up with a source. It was also very inexpensive to buy it that way.
The heater relay on a Samsung dryer u can hear it clicking on and off . The dryer only heats up very little. Everything else I replaced. Except for the control board. U can hear the relay kicking on and off.. do u think the control board is bad???
I didn't troubleshoot the issue with the relay that I replaced. I don't know what to tell you. Maybe there are other videos or postings on the internet to help you.
kenmore electric dryer he5t -error F01 code bought a new relay switch and cleaned up the board and re-soldered the new relay switch and put all back together, but it did not work? Just wondering not the best a soldering could this be the problem
I didn't do the troubleshooting on the relay. My friend looked up common problems with his machine on the net and came up with this. The new relay did click when he reinstalled the board.
@@supertrucker1356 They are soldered onto the board. I have this tool called a solder sucker. You heat up the solder with and soldering pencil and then suck up the solder with the suction tool. Look up solder sucker on the web.
I don't have that information. My client supplied the part. There will be a part number on your relay than you can do an internet search on. That will provide suppliers for another or an equivalent part. Good Luck!
Im troubleshooting a relay that i think is bad on a pcb...i am trying to determine if the relay is not receiving the correct voltage/ground before i make my call that the relay is not working...i am getting 12 volts on one end of the coil and only 6 volts on the other....not sure if the other side should be ground voltage or it should be also 12 volts OR everything is normal.... Trying to rule out the possibility of the relay not receiving the correct power/ground as the problem before i think about the relay being faulty because obviously the relay cant be bad if it is not receiving the correct voltage in the first place
If it is a mechanical relay like the one in the video, you will usually feel it click when you energize the coil. You can check the coil resistance with an ohm meter. In general they will be around three to five ohms. Depending on the number of working contacts in the relay there will be two or three circuit paths for the relay to switch too. There will be a common contact which will be normally closed to one leg when the coil is not energized. The other contact will be closed only when the coil is energized. I've never checked for differences in voltage across a relay. The ohm meter tells a better story.
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. relay was bad...I jumped it and got no continuity at the contacts....swapped relays and new one works perfect except for after about an hour it started rattling sparking really bad...i found the problem....I have only 6v at the transistor side or the relay coil....when I measure across the relay it is 6v total....the transistor is most likely bad....the supply side is 12v so everything is good there...
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. I'm getting so frustrated...I tested transistor on board and it failed...then I took it off board and it passed...so transistor is not my problem....this .5v is my problem....that is too low to turn on the transistor fully....I really need to figure this out....what else could it be? Thermostat not sending a strong enough signal? Microcontroller? Sorry forgot to mention that...I am getting .5v at the transistor base...I should see .7 or even higher
@@macknumber9 I'm sorry that I can't answer your question on the transistor. I don't have the old board to be able to look at an suggest other possibilities. Let us know what you find if anything.
@@repairsecrets My understanding is that potting is a form of resin that boards are dipped/sealed in to protect them from moisture/environmental exposure.
The relay apparently was a standard part. It is a lot smaller, runs at 120 volts AC and is soldered in place on a circuit board. I don't understand your point?
@@repairsecrets A relay is a moving part. Moving parts tend to break and need replacement. If they designed a socket for the relays to fit into, like they do for relays in automobile fuse boxes, then it would be a cinch to swap out a failed relay instead of having to solder it.
@@JoshuaRichards2010 Engineering design doesn't work that way anymore. The engineer has a couple of dozen catalogs in the book case behind him. He needs a component to do something and he doesn't have the manufacturing capability to make it so he picks up a catalog and looks for one supplied by someone else. It has to meet specifications and apparently for this use, this is what he finds. Automotive units aren't this small and solder is the accepted method of attaching to a circuit board. The big deal is that people shouldn't put huge loads like heavy coats and floor rugs in the dryer to pull so much current that it burns out the relay.
Very helpful! Saved a bunch of money! $180 for circuit board. $10 for relay. Need a hot iron, though. That solder does not want to melt. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Epic Z now running. Unbelievable how well the wire trick worked. Drying a second load now. Couldn't get reasonably priced board replacement. Will brag on this video more in a few months if it holds up 🤞
My Epic Z still works 11/26/2022 over 100 loads since this repair that I thought had a 10% chance.
This is really cool! I have the same dryer and found that the motor relay burned as well. I dont have the skills to replace that, so I am replacing the control board with one from ebay
Very informative. I will definitely look into this to see if this is my issue
Thanks for the comment, it's an easy and inexpensive repair.
200 bucks for an ECB is an outrage but it is what we consumers have accepted as the new normal.
Any idea about the current which will go through the white wire you soldered as a jumper?
That is a very good question and I don't know. That's part of the reason I put that copper jumper wire in. I think the load is variable depending on how heavy the material that is being dried is. The owner of the dryer said his wife was washing heavy throw rugs and then putting them in the dryer and he thinks that was the cause.
Where did you find that relay? So happens to be the exact one I need
My client gave me the relay to install. He got it be putting the numbers on the relay into a search and came up with a source. It was also very inexpensive to buy it that way.
Wish I would have seen this video before I shelled out over 500 dollars to get this same issue resolved. The board itself was $320. Now I know... smh.
The heater relay on a Samsung dryer u can hear it clicking on and off . The dryer only heats up very little. Everything else I replaced. Except for the control board. U can hear the relay kicking on and off.. do u think the control board is bad???
I didn't troubleshoot the issue with the relay that I replaced. I don't know what to tell you. Maybe there are other videos or postings on the internet to help you.
kenmore electric dryer he5t -error F01 code bought a new relay switch and cleaned up the board and re-soldered the new relay switch and put all back together, but it did not work? Just wondering not the best a soldering could this be the problem
It's hard to say without looking at the soldering job. It also might have had something else wrong in the dryer.
F01 is the thermistor error.
Was that relay still clicking? How did you know it was that particular relay? I'm trying to troubleshoot my Thermoking apu motherboard.
I didn't do the troubleshooting on the relay. My friend looked up common problems with his machine on the net and came up with this. The new relay did click when he reinstalled the board.
@@repairsecrets How are they held on? What did you use to pull it off? So the burned out relay didn't click anymore?
@@supertrucker1356 They are soldered onto the board. I have this tool called a solder sucker. You heat up the solder with and soldering pencil and then suck up the solder with the suction tool. Look up solder sucker on the web.
What gauge wire you used?
As I recall I cut one strand out of a piece of 14 gauge stranded wire and then laid the solder over the top of that.
What's the relay part number?
I don't have that information. My client supplied the part. There will be a part number on your relay than you can do an internet search on. That will provide suppliers for another or an equivalent part. Good Luck!
Im troubleshooting a relay that i think is bad on a pcb...i am trying to determine if the relay is not receiving the correct voltage/ground before i make my call that the relay is not working...i am getting 12 volts on one end of the coil and only 6 volts on the other....not sure if the other side should be ground voltage or it should be also 12 volts OR everything is normal....
Trying to rule out the possibility of the relay not receiving the correct power/ground as the problem before i think about the relay being faulty because obviously the relay cant be bad if it is not receiving the correct voltage in the first place
If it is a mechanical relay like the one in the video, you will usually feel it click when you energize the coil. You can check the coil resistance with an ohm meter. In general they will be around three to five ohms. Depending on the number of working contacts in the relay there will be two or three circuit paths for the relay to switch too. There will be a common contact which will be normally closed to one leg when the coil is not energized. The other contact will be closed only when the coil is energized. I've never checked for differences in voltage across a relay. The ohm meter tells a better story.
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. relay was bad...I jumped it and got no continuity at the contacts....swapped relays and new one works perfect except for after about an hour it started rattling sparking really bad...i found the problem....I have only 6v at the transistor side or the relay coil....when I measure across the relay it is 6v total....the transistor is most likely bad....the supply side is 12v so everything is good there...
@@macknumber9 That's nice work!
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. I'm getting so frustrated...I tested transistor on board and it failed...then I took it off board and it passed...so transistor is not my problem....this .5v is my problem....that is too low to turn on the transistor fully....I really need to figure this out....what else could it be? Thermostat not sending a strong enough signal? Microcontroller?
Sorry forgot to mention that...I am getting .5v at the transistor base...I should see .7 or even higher
@@macknumber9 I'm sorry that I can't answer your question on the transistor. I don't have the old board to be able to look at an suggest other possibilities. Let us know what you find if anything.
Damn Samsung potted their board so I can't even look at the back of the PCB without really being careful with a Dremel and razer blade.
What do you mean be potted?
@@repairsecrets My understanding is that potting is a form of resin that boards are dipped/sealed in to protect them from moisture/environmental exposure.
You know in vehicles these relays are swappable. If they made the board the same way this would be easy as pie. Guess we all know why they don't...
The relay apparently was a standard part. It is a lot smaller, runs at 120 volts AC and is soldered in place on a circuit board. I don't understand your point?
@@repairsecrets A relay is a moving part. Moving parts tend to break and need replacement. If they designed a socket for the relays to fit into, like they do for relays in automobile fuse boxes, then it would be a cinch to swap out a failed relay instead of having to solder it.
@@JoshuaRichards2010 Engineering design doesn't work that way anymore. The engineer has a couple of dozen catalogs in the book case behind him. He needs a component to do something and he doesn't have the manufacturing capability to make it so he picks up a catalog and looks for one supplied by someone else. It has to meet specifications and apparently for this use, this is what he finds. Automotive units aren't this small and solder is the accepted method of attaching to a circuit board. The big deal is that people shouldn't put huge loads like heavy coats and floor rugs in the dryer to pull so much current that it burns out the relay.
@@repairsecrets My dryer is 30 years old. It takes big loads like a champ. They don't build them like they used to.
@@pibblesnbits I can beat that. My WP dryer is 35 years old & still going strong. They didn't have circuit boards...control was all mechanical.
Help my whole controls bored fried