Great video! Just one question, when you put back the fill screw right at the end, oil is still dripping. Aren’t you supposed to wait for it to stop dripping, so that you leave it with the right amount of oil?
Good question. You need to wait until it is a slow drip as when the engine is running, the oil will be constantly expanding due to the increase in temperature. Due to this, it won't stop dropping
Greetings, Mark, from a New Yorker who moved to Germany in 2016! I should preface the question I have with the fact that your video, your facility and sense of humor make me want to bring my 2007 2.7 diesel over to from Germany! Great video! :) And I'm wondering why "in their great wisdom", they made it so difficult to fill the transmission! :) As for my question? I bought my 2.7 Diesel (which I think carries the same ZF 6-speed auto transmission as yours) in 2017 with 86K km on her. About 2 years after I bought it, I started developing what has become a familiar problem that arises whenever the outside temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius. When I start the engine cold, after driving a few hundred meters, I get a "thunk" as the transmission locks in to third gear, and I get the message on the dashboard "Transmission fault". I have since learned through trial and error that if I continue driving in 3rd until the engine (or perhaps transmission?) warms up, pull over, switch off the engine, wait 30 seconds and re-start, the fault code goes away and the transmission works flawlessly, like silk through all gears. Once i reach my destination, I can actually leave the car for 2 or 3 hours (depending on how cold the weather is), and when I re-start, everything is perfect. I also notice (given these winter months and early morning darkness) that when I'm idling after I first start the car and my lights are on, there is a little flicker in the lights at exactly the moment the "Transmission fault" comes on. This all leads me (and I'm no expert in auto mechanics!) to believe there may be a temperature sensor of sorts inside the transmission? If there IS one, could it somehow be faulty (causing this "fault") and replaced without too much of a problem? This problem only arises during the winter months, and never during spring or summer. I had a terrible experience at the local German Jaguar dealership and refuse to go back (a whole other story), but I DO have a friend here who has a repair shop and who works on mostly American cars and who would gladly help out if you might have any advice? I apologize for writing so much, but as German is tough for me, it's an ordeal even trying to explain all this to someone who has no experience with Jaguars here. Perhaps you might be able to give me a pointer or two? All the best, and Happy New Year to you and yours! Stan
Hi Stan. Your symptoms sound like a case of old dirty transmission fluid. It's much harder to pump around especially when cold so I would suggest that you start with a gearbox oil and filter change.
@@MarksWheels Thanks SO much for the reply. I'm not sure if this might make any difference, but the story with the Jaguar dealership here might figure in? Around 3 years ago, during the early summer season, I replaced the battery (stamped from 2007 so I assume it was the original) after getting a series of fault codes including the EPB and a few others. I had read in several forums that a weak battery might well be the cause, so I replaced it and the codes problem disappeared. About a month later, I noticed a fluid leak under the car, so I drove it over to Jaguar, and after checking it, they informed me there was a small crack in the plastic sump (or pan) and they replaced it and the fluid for 980 Euros, telling my the transmission itself was fine! No more leaks, but when winter rolled around, so returned the transmission fault problem, which I had thought (mistakenly) would no longer be a problem after the battery change. So the fluid is 3 yrs old and I've driven about 37,000 km since then. I'll try and do a change again, but if that doesn't help, do you think it could be a sensor (if there is one)? I realize I might be wish thinking, but I'm thinking that if there IS one and that it's somehow not working properly, it wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to replace? Again, thanks so much for any advice!
@@playinhard There are a set of solenoids that control thee gear changes which could also b the cause. I'll be doing a video soon on the as I need to replace mine but the symptoms I'm getting are a bit different. I'm not sure about any sensors but might be worth getting the transmission codes read and see if there are any codes stored
Great informative video. Can you pre fill the pan with oil prior to fitting if two people work together, one holding it up whilst the other screws in the plastic bolts?
The grinding sound from the engine is nothing to worry about. My larger Land Rover intake (ua-cam.com/video/vIoQUKEwuuk/v-deo.html) is just touching the strut brace. I need to do a little more grinding 😬
Hi Mark, brilliant information & video, I followed your guidance and have been driving mine for a couple of weeks now and like you said.. transformed it. May I ask which Foxwell scanner you used in the video? I have their NT510 Pro from way back but it's not as comprehensive as yours. I'm feeling spendy so thinking of treating myself lol.
Hi Joe. That's a good question! I know what you mean. I try to change my oil every couple of years so I'm pretty happy the few litres of oil left in the system would mix with the fresh and still leave a pretty clean oil. Draining all the oil from from system isn't really a diy job
@@MarksWheels Cheers mate, Ive seen a few vids where they disconnect the trans cooling lines up front and spin the engine over to help drain the convertor. Seems a bit dodgy but, especially as the pump would be sucking air.
Hi Mick, Im sorry i didn't see your message until now. We are booked a few weeks in advance at the moment but let me know when you are next able to come down and ill see what i can do for you
hi Mark I can come to you on Wednesday 6th it will take a couple of hours to get there, you can book me in for 10am on 6th November, if you ping me your address, cheers
I love your videos. Are you by any chance familiar with a p0706 and p1798 transmission codes? I currently have those and just recently checked the fuses and they are good. 🤷
You would probably need to have the car diagnosed. Fault codes are a great indicator of where to start looking. The fault isn't always what the codes say
I'm changing the bridge seal on mine , I need to remove the tcm plug to drop the valve body . Do I need to brace the trans before I remove the bracket to gain access the the plug ? Any help would be great
@@MarksWheels , thanks for the response . I have big hands and try as I may no way I was getting behind the plug lol. I measured the distance from the ground and the drive shaft I cut a 2x4 to snug before I removed the bracket. The whole process went smooth. The only touchy thing was the new sleeve for the tcm plug . I'm paranoid about breaking plastic. It was a pain to seat it. I used a small rubber mallet and gently tapped it in. Holding my breath of course. The transmission shifts flawlessly like new again. Thanks
My 01 Xj vanden Plas shifts hard into reverse and back into drive unless I'm careful. It shifts hard into second after a sudden acceleration also. This is after it ran lownon trans fluid for quite awhile. I ordered the gasket and trans filter. Yester I drained the black fluid but I did not pull the pan because some of the bolts are rusted and I don't want to have a problem reinstalling the pan due to strippage. The symptoms I described are after the fluid change. And somewhat before. I am wondering if it will do any good to drain again, pull the pan and change the trans filter or if I have messed up the trans already.
Have you done a lot of these? I ask because when I pulled the pan on my 00 Mercedes C280 the aluminum housing threads stiripped and the bolts would not hold the pan on snugly when reassembled. This is almost the exact same transmission on my 01 Jaguar. Thats what has made me a little afraid to try it.
I did that to buy transmission the problem. I'm having is when it's cold. And not get in it. It's s***'s great. Everything's fine. But soon as I go at 4 or 5 miles of park, it go in the store. Come back out then it's like it's in second year. First and it won't shift to do 50 miles per hour. I'm running almost 4000 rpm. Uh must be a censor can you help me with it
@@jagvolvo33I had the filter replaced it never solved the issue. If I put the automatic gearbox into 2nd gear and pull away very slowly and then work through the gears the gearbox works OK sometimes, when I get onto the motorway and put my foot down the gearbox bangs and you can hear the gears slipping, think it must need a new gearbox
hi I'm Deano from skelmersdale Lancashire UK 🇬🇧 iv just bought my first jag 2005 S-Type 3.0 Auto. iv been quoted upto £400 to get my Gearbox oil and filters replaced by a jaguar Specialist at Southport Lancashire. is that actually a fair and proper price for the job to be done as he said oil is the expensive bit and obviously his labour
Hi Dean. Yes that sounds like a pretty fair price to me. The last one i did at work wasn't far off that price. It my seem expensive but you will notice the difference
@@MarksWheels thank you Mark for replying so promptly I really didn't know if you would contact me or not. So appreciate you telling me that my quote for the Gearbox oil change is fair. As I'm new to jags my friend only owned this one 6 days tomorrow. Its silky smooth I feel special driving this old Classic of a Classic. I will follow you on UA-cam channel. Are you on messenger so I can write ✍️ directly to you .the program that you host I just came across tonight brilliant watching you work in detail as you explained the process 👍 👌
I'm just doing this on my 2.7d but when filling back with new oil it started running out at about 3.5L or less. I waited a while, tried again but the oil just runs out. I'm afraid there's too little oil in there and will ruin the gearbox if I start the engine... HELP?...
No sounds about right. Most of the fluid stays in the pipework, gearbox cooler etc so although the system takes 8 -10 litres, th sump only holds about half that
Ok, cheers for that! I later realised that the car is maybe not 100% level on its 4 jack stands and possibly leaning a little towards the filling hole side. Later or tomorrow I'll take it down one click on the opposite side to level it better and finish the job (an absolute pain without a car lift). I should have no problems getting the transmission to 30-40 degrees, seeing as it will be 34 tomorrow 😬. Thanks for replying!
@@MarksWheels Sorry for the delay in coming back. Finished the job! It still took another 2 full bottles before it started dripping out. Got a little worried at some point because, with the car up in stands, there was a clunk when putting it into D... This was much less noticeable after it was on the ground and I can no longer notice it after driving a few 100s of kms. Hit the 200.000 km mark yesterday 🙂 Buttery smooth gear changes, can almost not tell when it does it (not that in changed poorly before, but I bought it with no history about 9 month ago, so this was long overdue. But it's definitely a little better). Now, onto the next issues...: a whine from the rear when the engine is neither pulling the car nor being pulled by it (sort of when the throttle is just keeping up with the car's speed... differential?) and a nasty kinda rumbling + tapping sound from the engine; suspect an exhaust leak at a flexi or thereabouts. Hopefully not something internal; it appears much worse when driving (so, under load) than when just revving in P, so I'm tending to rule out lifters. Thanks again for your input, I'll be sure to nag more about Jag issues 😁!
@@paulopinheiro7550 Engine noise sounds like it could be an exhaust leak. There are a couple of flexi joints before the cat. You can get repair sections for them. The whine probably is the rear differential. Have you changed the oil on it yet?
I feel that this not an easy DIY job. Need a lift to work under the car. You need room under the car to work. Working with the car sitting on 4 axle stands may not give you the room required. I suppose in the end home/DIY mechanics will all have to have diagnostic tools. Until then work like this is harder. The tip for the heat sensor is a good one for this work. Where would you aim it for? Obviously somewhere on the metal casing. Sound like your cars like to make grinding noises. 😉
Id have to agree with you there! I think it would be much harder to do this on the driveway although not impossible. The temperature should be ok being read straight off the filter/sump pan as it is plastic and will transfer heat pretty quick. The grinding noise is just my larger intake touching the front strut brace.
Jaguar, S type car is not starting, what could be the problem, I would be very happy if you tell me. When the battery is connected, the engine is switched on, the headlights are on, everything is fine, only the engine is not starting.
This could be starter motor, battery, ignition switch, wiring among many other faults. Without seeing the car in person it would be a guessing game tbh
Thanks for your comment. This is the stuff i used - www.britishparts.co.uk/jaguar-parts-c11/jaguar-xk-xkr-1996-2006-c45/gearbox-c312/transmission-oil-6hp-series-zf-p8714
if anyone wants charge you more than £250 . your being mugged off its an hours labour to drop the oil change the pan and refill . 350 if they prove to you they used genuine zf lifeguard 6 7 ltrs of it . if your going do it youself smith allen lifeguard 6 is half the price and exactly same spec .
You could contact a Chinese company and mass produce that little modified tool for the trans filler and sell them for £50 quid each X a million then you'd be worth £50m quid and you wouldn't have to screw around with old Jaguars anymore 😉
Many thanks, exactly my xj6 problem. Massive bang form first to second gear. Now I now what it is needed…
Thanks for watching
I'm still learning the Foxwell. The JLR version seems thorough. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching
Torque spec for pan bolts is 10 nm.
Thanks Robert
Very informative mate
Much appreciated. 😊
Thanks for watching
Great video! Just one question, when you put back the fill screw right at the end, oil is still dripping. Aren’t you supposed to wait for it to stop dripping, so that you leave it with the right amount of oil?
Good question. You need to wait until it is a slow drip as when the engine is running, the oil will be constantly expanding due to the increase in temperature. Due to this, it won't stop dropping
@@MarksWheels zf says u need to wait until its single drops otherwise u have extra oil which will lead high temperatures
Greetings, Mark, from a New Yorker who moved to Germany in 2016! I should preface the question I have with the fact that your video, your facility and sense of humor make me want to bring my 2007 2.7 diesel over to from Germany! Great video! :) And I'm wondering why "in their great wisdom", they made it so difficult to fill the transmission! :) As for my question?
I bought my 2.7 Diesel (which I think carries the same ZF 6-speed auto transmission as yours) in 2017 with 86K km on her. About 2 years after I bought it, I started developing what has become a familiar problem that arises whenever the outside temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius. When I start the engine cold, after driving a few hundred meters, I get a "thunk" as the transmission locks in to third gear, and I get the message on the dashboard "Transmission fault". I have since learned through trial and error that if I continue driving in 3rd until the engine (or perhaps transmission?) warms up, pull over, switch off the engine, wait 30 seconds and re-start, the fault code goes away and the transmission works flawlessly, like silk through all gears. Once i reach my destination, I can actually leave the car for 2 or 3 hours (depending on how cold the weather is), and when I re-start, everything is perfect. I also notice (given these winter months and early morning darkness) that when I'm idling after I first start the car and my lights are on, there is a little flicker in the lights at exactly the moment the "Transmission fault" comes on.
This all leads me (and I'm no expert in auto mechanics!) to believe there may be a temperature sensor of sorts inside the transmission? If there IS one, could it somehow be faulty (causing this "fault") and replaced without too much of a problem? This problem only arises during the winter months, and never during spring or summer.
I had a terrible experience at the local German Jaguar dealership and refuse to go back (a whole other story), but I DO have a friend here who has a repair shop and who works on mostly American cars and who would gladly help out if you might have any advice?
I apologize for writing so much, but as German is tough for me, it's an ordeal even trying to explain all this to someone who has no experience with Jaguars here. Perhaps you might be able to give me a pointer or two?
All the best, and Happy New Year to you and yours!
Stan
Hi Stan. Your symptoms sound like a case of old dirty transmission fluid. It's much harder to pump around especially when cold so I would suggest that you start with a gearbox oil and filter change.
@@MarksWheels Thanks SO much for the reply. I'm not sure if this might make any difference, but the story with the Jaguar dealership here might figure in?
Around 3 years ago, during the early summer season, I replaced the battery (stamped from 2007 so I assume it was the original) after getting a series of fault codes including the EPB and a few others. I had read in several forums that a weak battery might well be the cause, so I replaced it and the codes problem disappeared. About a month later, I noticed a fluid leak under the car, so I drove it over to Jaguar, and after checking it, they informed me there was a small crack in the plastic sump (or pan) and they replaced it and the fluid for 980 Euros, telling my the transmission itself was fine! No more leaks, but when winter rolled around, so returned the transmission fault problem, which I had thought (mistakenly) would no longer be a problem after the battery change. So the fluid is 3 yrs old and I've driven about 37,000 km since then.
I'll try and do a change again, but if that doesn't help, do you think it could be a sensor (if there is one)? I realize I might be wish thinking, but I'm thinking that if there IS one and that it's somehow not working properly, it wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to replace? Again, thanks so much for any advice!
@@playinhard There are a set of solenoids that control thee gear changes which could also b the cause. I'll be doing a video soon on the as I need to replace mine but the symptoms I'm getting are a bit different. I'm not sure about any sensors but might be worth getting the transmission codes read and see if there are any codes stored
hi good video thanks. Do you have a video or info on changing the gearbox position sensor on the s type?
Hi Nick. No not yet but I will bear it in mind for a future video
Great informative video. Can you pre fill the pan with oil prior to fitting if two people work together, one holding it up whilst the other screws in the plastic bolts?
I suppose in theory this would work but you would still need to top the fluid up as it takes alot more fluid that just what the pan holds.
Thank you appreciate the offer, if I can get to you I will, I'm in Twickenham
No worries
@@MarksWheels hi Mark if you don't see my messages before tonight, will have to arrange another day to pop to Eastbourne
Hi, great video, what size allen bit was used for the fill plug? Thanks
From memory it is a 7 or 8mm.
great video. i just bought a 2008 stype 3.0 wit 16k kms on the odo. when should i change the transmission oil and filter. thanks
If you don't have any history of if being changed, I would definitely do one now
hi great video can you tell what model number the foxwell scanner is you use thank you
Hi Patrick. Its the Foxwell 530nt. Thanks for watching
@@MarksWheels thank you
The grinding sound from the engine is nothing to worry about. My larger Land Rover intake (ua-cam.com/video/vIoQUKEwuuk/v-deo.html) is just touching the strut brace. I need to do a little more grinding 😬
Hi mark. Good video, thanks. My question is that I did not see any gasket being changed. Was there one on the new cover? Cheers. AL
Hi Al, good question! Yes it comes with the new sump, already attached to it
Hi Mark, brilliant information & video, I followed your guidance and have been driving mine for a couple of weeks now and like you said.. transformed it. May I ask which Foxwell scanner you used in the video? I have their NT510 Pro from way back but it's not as comprehensive as yours. I'm feeling spendy so thinking of treating myself lol.
Mine is the nt530
Hi, old video i know but what about the old oil in the torque convertor, there is usually more oil in that than the pan.
Hi Joe. That's a good question! I know what you mean. I try to change my oil every couple of years so I'm pretty happy the few litres of oil left in the system would mix with the fresh and still leave a pretty clean oil. Draining all the oil from from system isn't really a diy job
@@MarksWheels Cheers mate, Ive seen a few vids where they disconnect the trans cooling lines up front and spin the engine over to help drain the convertor. Seems a bit dodgy but, especially as the pump would be sucking air.
25nm on the sump bolts mate 👊🏼
Thanks bud!
Awesome 👌 video
Very helpful!
Tha k you Edward
Hi Mark. I can come to you on Wednesday fir you to look at my gearbox if that's okay
Hi Mick, Im sorry i didn't see your message until now. We are booked a few weeks in advance at the moment but let me know when you are next able to come down and ill see what i can do for you
hi Mark I can come to you on Wednesday 6th it will take a couple of hours to get there, you can book me in for 10am on 6th November, if you ping me your address, cheers
I love your videos. Are you by any chance familiar with a p0706 and p1798 transmission codes?
I currently have those and just recently checked the fuses and they are good. 🤷
You would probably need to have the car diagnosed. Fault codes are a great indicator of where to start looking. The fault isn't always what the codes say
I'm changing the bridge seal on mine , I need to remove the tcm plug to drop the valve body . Do I need to brace the trans before I remove the bracket to gain access the the plug ? Any help would be great
I think you should be able to leave the gearbox mounting in place.
@@MarksWheels , thanks for the response . I have big hands and try as I may no way I was getting behind the plug lol. I measured the distance from the ground and the drive shaft I cut a 2x4 to snug before I removed the bracket. The whole process went smooth. The only touchy thing was the new sleeve for the tcm plug . I'm paranoid about breaking plastic. It was a pain to seat it. I used a small rubber mallet and gently tapped it in. Holding my breath of course. The transmission shifts flawlessly like new again. Thanks
Mark -2001 would that be the same pan and filter
Hi Tony. I believe the 99-02 had a different gearbox to the 03 on but I think the process is pretty much the same
My 01 Xj vanden Plas shifts hard into reverse and back into drive unless I'm careful. It shifts hard into second after a sudden acceleration also. This is after it ran lownon trans fluid for quite awhile. I ordered the gasket and trans filter. Yester I drained the black fluid but I did not pull the pan because some of the bolts are rusted and I don't want to have a problem reinstalling the pan due to strippage. The symptoms I described are after the fluid change. And somewhat before. I am wondering if it will do any good to drain again, pull the pan and change the trans filter or if I have messed up the trans already.
I think you definitely need to remove the pan and replace the filter. Even with fresh oil, the filter will stay dirty
Have you done a lot of these? I ask because when I pulled the pan on my 00 Mercedes C280 the aluminum housing threads stiripped and the bolts would not hold the pan on snugly when reassembled. This is almost the exact same transmission on my 01 Jaguar. Thats what has made me a little afraid to try it.
@@tainchains yes I have done a few but to be honest never had a issue like that
Hi Mark, do you have to leave the engine running once it gets to 30° to top it back up
Yes top it back up with the engine running
Just done mine yesterday and it's like a different car, seamless gear change again
@@craiglynn8115 Good to hear!
Question. I changed my oil pan and the electric pin o rings. Now the transmission is not detected. Won't start at all saying gearbox fault.
I would suggest having a look to make sure the electric pins are seated correctly
@@MarksWheels 99% certain thats it and the sleeth probly wasnt pressed fully "home"
(thank, you for you're helpful video)👍
Thanks for watching
were r u situated would you service my 2006 2.7 diesel
Hi Don. My garage is in Eastbourne bn24 and would happily service your s type
@@MarksWheels oh shit to far mark im in lpool mate seen you doin the s type R great job
@@donreston5660 no worries. Thanks for watching
@@MarksWheels keep doin jags and that jrgo needs compertion mate
All this messing about just to change the ATF !! ..... How often do I need to do this then, and how long between oil changes ?
Yep. Not like the old days lol. I think the recommended interval is 60,000 miles
Hello mate my jag has issue of delay in shifting gear and I have to press accelerator little hard to pick up the speed. So could tell me the solution?
Gearbox oil and filter change is always the first place to start in my opinion
Loved it.
Thanks DVD
Do you keep the car running to mesure the temperature after the first fill ?
Yes you do
good night. What automatic transmission oil did you use ?
This is the stuff i used - www.britishparts.co.uk/jaguar-parts-c11/jaguar-xk-xkr-1996-2006-c45/gearbox-c312/transmission-oil-6hp-series-zf-p8714
I did that to buy transmission the problem. I'm having is when it's cold. And not get in it. It's s***'s great. Everything's fine. But soon as I go at 4 or 5 miles of park, it go in the store. Come back out then it's like it's in second year. First and it won't shift to do 50 miles per hour. I'm running almost 4000 rpm. Uh must be a censor can you help me with it
Sounds very similar to what i had before doing this oil and filter change.
Why would the mechanic only change my fluid and not my filter on 03 jaguar stype
I'm not sure. That's a bit like changing your engine oil without replacing the filter
So my jag is not moving would it be the transmission fluid
It could be. My Pontiac stopped moving when the fluid was too low.
Hi I have issue with my 2004 stype gearbox and this could solve my problem, where are you as I'd like you to look at mine, I'm in Tw2 area
My workshop is in Eastbourne BN24
did you get it sorted ?
@@jagvolvo33I had the filter replaced it never solved the issue. If I put the automatic gearbox into 2nd gear and pull away very slowly and then work through the gears the gearbox works OK sometimes, when I get onto the motorway and put my foot down the gearbox bangs and you can hear the gears slipping, think it must need a new gearbox
@@jagvolvo33 Yes i did. These gearboxes really don't like dirty oil.
@@ziggy14u Check your oil level. Sounds to me like its too low
Mike 2001 S-Type V6 when I put it in drive as little delay I'm taking off how are you think I might be I thank you in advance
Definately worth changing the gearbox oil and filter first. Can do wonders for it.
Hi there, where abouts are you based? As I wouldn’t mind you changing the oil on mine
My garage is in East Sussex, near Eastbourne
@@MarksWheels ahh okay thanks! Not too far away! How much do you charge?
hi I'm Deano from skelmersdale Lancashire UK 🇬🇧 iv just bought my first jag 2005 S-Type 3.0 Auto. iv been quoted upto £400 to get my Gearbox oil and filters replaced by a jaguar Specialist at Southport Lancashire. is that actually a fair and proper price for the job to be done as he said oil is the expensive bit and obviously his labour
Hi Dean. Yes that sounds like a pretty fair price to me. The last one i did at work wasn't far off that price. It my seem expensive but you will notice the difference
@@MarksWheels thank you Mark for replying so promptly I really didn't know if you would contact me or not. So appreciate you telling me that my quote for the Gearbox oil change is fair. As I'm new to jags my friend only owned this one 6 days tomorrow. Its silky smooth I feel special driving this old Classic of a Classic. I will follow you on UA-cam channel. Are you on messenger so I can write ✍️ directly to you .the program that you host I just came across tonight brilliant watching you work in detail as you explained the process 👍 👌
Thanks for the comment. I am not on Messenger yet but am looking to start a facebook page soon and will then be on messenger
Hi were did u buy the filter ?
Britishparts.co.uk
I'm just doing this on my 2.7d but when filling back with new oil it started running out at about 3.5L or less. I waited a while, tried again but the oil just runs out. I'm afraid there's too little oil in there and will ruin the gearbox if I start the engine... HELP?...
No sounds about right. Most of the fluid stays in the pipework, gearbox cooler etc so although the system takes 8 -10 litres, th sump only holds about half that
Ok, cheers for that! I later realised that the car is maybe not 100% level on its 4 jack stands and possibly leaning a little towards the filling hole side. Later or tomorrow I'll take it down one click on the opposite side to level it better and finish the job (an absolute pain without a car lift). I should have no problems getting the transmission to 30-40 degrees, seeing as it will be 34 tomorrow 😬. Thanks for replying!
@@paulopinheiro7550 No problem
@@MarksWheels Sorry for the delay in coming back. Finished the job! It still took another 2 full bottles before it started dripping out. Got a little worried at some point because, with the car up in stands, there was a clunk when putting it into D... This was much less noticeable after it was on the ground and I can no longer notice it after driving a few 100s of kms. Hit the 200.000 km mark yesterday 🙂 Buttery smooth gear changes, can almost not tell when it does it (not that in changed poorly before, but I bought it with no history about 9 month ago, so this was long overdue. But it's definitely a little better).
Now, onto the next issues...: a whine from the rear when the engine is neither pulling the car nor being pulled by it (sort of when the throttle is just keeping up with the car's speed... differential?) and a nasty kinda rumbling + tapping sound from the engine; suspect an exhaust leak at a flexi or thereabouts. Hopefully not something internal; it appears much worse when driving (so, under load) than when just revving in P, so I'm tending to rule out lifters. Thanks again for your input, I'll be sure to nag more about Jag issues 😁!
@@paulopinheiro7550 Engine noise sounds like it could be an exhaust leak. There are a couple of flexi joints before the cat. You can get repair sections for them. The whine probably is the rear differential. Have you changed the oil on it yet?
I feel that this not an easy DIY job. Need a lift to work under the car. You need room under the car to work. Working with the car sitting on 4 axle stands may not give you the room required. I suppose in the end home/DIY mechanics will all have to have diagnostic tools. Until then work like this is harder. The tip for the heat sensor is a good one for this work. Where would you aim it for? Obviously somewhere on the metal casing.
Sound like your cars like to make grinding noises. 😉
Id have to agree with you there! I think it would be much harder to do this on the driveway although not impossible. The temperature should be ok being read straight off the filter/sump pan as it is plastic and will transfer heat pretty quick. The grinding noise is just my larger intake touching the front strut brace.
I did this in a driveway on my F-Pace. literally same process.
Thanks for watching
Jaguar, S type car is not starting, what could be the problem, I would be very happy if you tell me. When the battery is connected, the engine is switched on, the headlights are on, everything is fine, only the engine is not starting.
This could be starter motor, battery, ignition switch, wiring among many other faults. Without seeing the car in person it would be a guessing game tbh
Great video thanks. One question though, what Oil are you using?
Thanks for your comment. This is the stuff i used - www.britishparts.co.uk/jaguar-parts-c11/jaguar-xk-xkr-1996-2006-c45/gearbox-c312/transmission-oil-6hp-series-zf-p8714
if anyone wants charge you more than £250 . your being mugged off its an hours labour to drop the oil change the pan and refill . 350 if they prove to you they used genuine zf lifeguard 6 7 ltrs of it . if your going do it youself smith allen lifeguard 6 is half the price and exactly same spec .
Thanks for watching
Always loosen of the filler bung first that is just basic common sense learn by others mistakes rule of life
Thanks for watching Paul
You could contact a Chinese company and mass produce that little modified tool for the trans filler and sell them for £50 quid each X a million then you'd be worth £50m quid and you wouldn't have to screw around with old Jaguars anymore 😉
Tempting but i love screwing around with old Jags!
Thanks, great clarity and clear instructions.
@@martintimlin1827 thanks for watching
I just cut an Allen wrench shorter, which will still do its normal job...
Hello mate my jag has issue of delay in shifting gear and I have to press accelerator little hard to pick up the speed. So could tell me the solution?
Any issue like yours I would always start with an oil and filter change. Thanks for watching
Hi were did u buy the filter ?
I got it from Britishparts.co.uk. you should also be able to get it from any good motor factors