Liberty SJ10 Radon Install
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Installation of the Liberty SJ10 water powered back-up sump pump over a sealed crock (sump pit) lid for use with a radon reduction system. I discussed the details of this installation with our City of Peoria plumbing inspector and followed all the code requirements and recommendations before starting the work.
Key points:
1. Take care of your primary sump pump first before installing the back-up pump. Make sure the crock is clean so that debris won't jam the impeller of your primary pump.
2. The SJ10 has a backflow check valve built in, but the local plumbing code may require additional backflow protection for your city water supply. Check with your city plumbing inspector for backflow protection requirements in your area.
3. Highly recommend installing a separate discharge line instead of tying in to the primary discharge line.
4. Test both the primary and back-up pumps periodically to ensure reliable operation.
I appreciate you taking the time to record the video. Helped me make the decision about the system.
There are rubber grommets that slide on the shaft above and below the float to adjust the level that the pump actuates. I had it adjusted as low as it would go.
You are right about the plumbing code. However, I consulted with the city plumbing inspector before the installation and he said the ASSE 1024 dual check valve was all that was needed. He also strongly recommended the separate discharge line.
Goodjob
Thanks for your reply. I am going to watch your video again before I do my Liberty install up here in Milwaukee! Great Vid thanks for taking the time to make it (GoPro cam head band mount??) :)
How do you do your monthly service on the water jet?
Great job
Hello, I have one of these pumps to install a Liberty just like yours, I wanted to t into the main discharge line, but they tell you not to do that in the manual, called liberty and ask about it and tech kind of didn't give me a good answer, told me I would get a hissing noise from liberty pump when the main sump pump runs, said I should go to a battery back up if I can't run separate discharge Line. You have any feedback you could give me on that, would really like to t into main line. Thanks Steve, ps I am doing away with Battery Backup
Shouldn’t this pit be vented to the atmosphere?
Thanks for the video; What is your take on wyeing in a ball valve from the fresh water supply, and sticking that just barely down into the crock, in order to use as a water inflow test?
Quick question, can you rotate the discharge/ flange downward 90 deg. instead of up?
My problem is the backup/ secondary discharge line is in the pit (4" down from the top)
It's good to test your pump regularly, but I'd recommend against installing a pipe directly into the crock for testing purposes, as there is a risk of back siphoning crock water into your fresh water supply if there was a loss of water pressure. To me, the convenience would not be worth the risk.
I installed a hose bib in my basement and put an atmospheric vacuum breaker on it, and even still, I only put the hose in the crock when I'm testing it and I take it out right away when I'm done.
Eugene how much do you charge for this?
how do you adjust the float ?? thanks
I wish you had better lighting than the led flash light...otherwise...good work.
looking at Illinois plumbing code, it says atmospheric vent is required on dual checkvalve for water powered sump pump
Illinois plumbing code
830.1140
k) Water-Powered Sump Pump. Sump pumps powered by potable or reclaimed water pressure shall be used only as an emergency backup pump. The water-powered pump shall be equipped with a battery powered alarm having a minimum rating of 85 dBa at 10 feet. Water-powered pumps shall have a water efficiency factor of pumping at least 1.4 gallons of water to a height of 10 feet for every gallon of water used to operate the pump, measured at a water pressure of 60 psi. Pumps shall be clearly labeled as to the gallons of water pumped per gallon of potable water consumed. Water-powered stormwater sump pumps shall be equipped with a dual check valve with atmospheric vent conforming to ASSE 1012 or CSA B64.
I consulted with our city plumbing inspector prior to the install, and he said the ASSE 1024 dual check valve was all that is needed. But you are right, the code does specify a ASSE 1012 vented dual check valve.
It won’t work with the duel check in there. There is one already built into the foot valve
This system has been working for years with the dual check valve and has saved our basement from heavy flooding and extended power outage a few years ago. Check with your local plumbing inspector before installation. The foot valve is on the suction/discharge side of the pump and does not provide backflow prevention for the supply side.
like the video.Good ideas and tips.Any issues with the Liberty yet or have you not lost power to see if it runs and keeps up.?
A few winters ago we had a 5 hour power outage from heavy freezing rain. The Liberty SJ10 went on every 5 minutes and kept our basement dry. Most of the houses on our street without a backup or generator had flooded basements, so this did the job.
Thanks for the response. I have a radon lid also,but the radon pipe is thru it unlike yours and have yet to actually put a radon fan in attic..I am leaning towards one of these Liberty pump systems but may have someone do it if not too expensive. I don,t want to mess with the PEX plumbing.The rest of installation looks pretty easy.Where did you get a clear lid on the crock?
wish2fish
The clear lid came on the crock with the house. It’s probably 3/8” plexiglass or similar material. Hardware stores also sell solid black lids that would work. You could put a clamped rubber coupling on your radon line to take it apart to open the lid if you want to go that route.