How To Shorten 1932 Ford Lever Shock Links
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- At the end of the last video on the Schroll 32 Coupe Matt mentioned an issues with the shock links being to long. Since we reversed the main leaf and removed some leaves, the front end is lower then stock. This pushed the lever shocks to their travel limit and prevented the front end from sitting fully on the spring. After removing the links the car settled to where it should have sat. Matt took a closer look at the DeLorean Roadster which has a dropped front axle and stock shocks. Matt found the shock links have been shorted to allow the shocks to sit where they would from factory. After some cutting and welding the Schroll 32 Coupe has a set of from shocks that now work correctly!
Get 10% Off Your Eastwood Order With The Coupon Code ITG15 At Checkout * Some Products Excluded -
Tools Used -
Eastwood Elite MP250i Multi-Process Welder - www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Panoramic View Auto Darkening Helmet - www.eastwood.c...
Wanna send us something?
Iron Trap Garage
PO Box 6
New Berlinville, PA
19545
Amazon Wishlist - www.amazon.com...
Matt's Instagram - @irontrap - / irontrap
Mike's Instagram - @mhammsteak - / mhammsteak
Email us - irontrapgarage@gmail.com
Get Your Iron Trap Merch Here - irontrapgarage...
Hey Matt, that's a pretty nifty way of doing the shock mounts. Looks like if a hard bump or a chuck hole sneaks up on you and y'all don't have time to avoid it, looks as if the axle is going to contact the frame. Not to mention the grill might go bye bye on ya too. Man I would hate to see that happen, but stuff happens, we all know that. Great video, thanks for doing it.
On a Wednesday too, go figure, ha!
Thanks Matt. Good idea. Be aware that some of the aftermarket dog bones are cast iron.
Hi Matt I just spent the last two days putting two strut Towers on a 92 Toyota Corolla for my friend Chris I had to replace the short pieces on the back tensioner on the back and new short brake lines that thing has 300 thousand miles on it an original clutch I can't believe it has the original clutch in it but it raised the car by 2in and it runs so much better on the road this weekend I get through the front struts on it
Neat little trick. Be safe and stay well.
Nice work Matt and it's great to get a bonus video as well!
Nice Wednesday morning surprise. Thanks.
Great video Matt. Love these little tech vids.
Are you going to run any cycle style fenders on any of your cars? I'd love to see a video of how you would make brackets to hold them in place so that they don't flop around.
The real old fashion, cool video, thanks Mat.
Thanks Matt for the technical video!!
Be safe...God Bless!!!
Love the extra video and how to keep the original shocks.
I heard my Dad refer to them as knee action shocks once. Never knew what exactly he was meaning till I seen them.
Oh yeah, thank you for the cool decals, they're nifty. I'll send you a picture or 2 of 'em after the rain finally quits and then I can put them on the old truck.
Matt you had me laughing looked like you were banging your head off the rad shell while testing the modified shock link. Like always thanks for the great content! Cheers!
Buick used thos sort of shocks as well,until the mid/late 50's. Might be something to look for to use on the old Fords
Thanks Mat, love the bonus video!
I can hardly wait to see it start and drive. I guess you know your radiator needs supports.
Brilliant Matt
Thanks
Donnie
Great tip thanks Steve
QUESTION could you not index the shock lever??
Hey Matt! Perhaps you could do a road trip or sth in one of your hotrods? great channel!!!
Hi Mat did you Ever think about going to the pumpkin run in South Jersey
Tele shocks rear, use them in the front as well. not hard to make brackets and the ride will be superior. You may find a rear shock from a 70s Ford or Chev maybe better than a 'normal' front shock as you have a fairly light car.
Afco and QA1 make so called street stock shocks with normal rubber bushings and they are not expensive. In those I would say a straight 5 rate on all 4 corners would work well. IF you do not want the new look paint them black. Makes them hide in full view.
With those levers use heim joints. Stronger and more efficient
When you guys firing this up?
Matt thanks for sharing. Kevin
Have not seen the anvil/vise combo before. Any idea of the manufacturer?
cool way of doing that fix
Thank you Matt, very informative. Regards to Kate,Moon an Mike. C-ya Fri, Terry
Looking great Matt!
We're enjoying this and all the other builds.
Any word on the Ardun?
He’s been doing bonneville things. Will be a while.
@@IronTrapGarage
Well, you can't rush the Master.
Thanks for all you share with us.
4:10 There was no need to bevel the joint area before rewelding ?
I was thinking the same thing.
I was able to get to both sides of the weld and crank the heat up to get 100% penetration. This isn’t thick material.
@@IronTrapGarage after l watched it again on a bigger screen l did see that.
@@IronTrapGarage Thanks, in your video you didn't explain that. I'm sure people who are starting to weld with TIG would have liked that info.
Wait, a Wednesday episode? Nice.
Curious why you would not at least measure the axle travel vs. the shock travel, and KNOW what length the link should be........and make it so...
Another fabulous Hot Rodders High Tech gimick one ups Detroit again
My 31 Model A had no shocks in the front. Turns out that Armstrong lever shocks on some British sports cars bolt right up to the original bolt holes. If my memory serves me right , the arms were splined and could be re-positioned, of course, as this was 30 years ago, they would be hard to source today.
Top parabéns!!! Seguindo vcs aqui do 🇧🇷👊🙂
Good tip!!!
Noce tip.👍🏼
Good deal!! I have these dampeners on all four corners of my 37 project, I dropped a buick 215 in and plan on keeping the leaf springs in the rear should I put tube shocks for the extra hp and torque?? ....... also does anyone here have experience with setting caster on a straight tube axle 6” drop with independent leaf springs?
Nice 👍
Doing things 'old school ' ,didn't know that there were tig welding machines in the 50s??????
What happened to the statement that you were going to do all external welding with a torch.
Actually TIG welding dates to the early 40s....but likely not common for the home craftsman.
@@danielwilson6401 --- most young rodders would have been lucky to have a oxy set !!!
wait... what day is it?
Bonus video!
Great vid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is this a “rat rod” or do you intend to pretty up the paint a bit?
This is a traditional hot rod, NOT a rat rod!
It's an old traditional hot rod from the 50s. That's it's original paint.
Not a Rat Rod but sure looks ratty…don’t understand Mat’s thought process.
👍
Bonus ,bonus
👍😎👍
🙂👍🇺🇸32🗽🤝
😎👍1932
First noicw