Exciting time huh Matt, finally all that hard work and labor is really starting to pay off. Nice job on taking your time with the assembly, can't wait to see it all come together..
Hello guys, it's a shame that your videos are so short !!!! I remain on my hunger every time on this project of Ford tree t ..... take care of yourself and continue with your great videos !! eric from France
Hi guys , have you ever considered using a Jaguar diff assembly, they are used here in New Zealand quite extensively as it gives independent suspension, in board disk brakes , nice stance, and a nice ride , just wondering.? Love you clips , good to see how and why you do stuff , good entertainment during lockdown.
Hello Matt, Another well done informative video! I know it"s a bit early, but What about installing A weathered looking copper panel over top of the firewall? I think it would contrast nicely with the black body color?! Great job on the car. Greg
Inspired by this video Mike. I will be doing the same wide five conversion on my diff. Would you be able to share the part numbers for the baring and seals that you ordered please?
Did you use a shorter model A main leaf? The spring perch width of the A is 49-1/2" and the Model T and 35-40 is 48" causing the shackles to hang wrong with weight on it.
Your title states “Model A spring”. Model A’s were made between 1928 & 1931 and the springs were mounted directly over the axel housing and used brass not rubber bushings in the shackles. This spring and axel are from a newer vehicle. Also I believe these later springs were wider. Hope this helps
Hi Matt I see you used 5 springs I had 9 in mine took the top two off shortened them for spacers but the ride is still stiff i,5 is softer but how is the bounce, did you install shocks or are planning to keep up the good work
You probably know this but if not always try to look for PN's on the old bearings/seals and try to order using that because they may be made for common applications like for tractors or pumps still being produced today.
I'm restoring a 26 model T coup in Australia but having a hard time finding a company to send parts to Australia at a reasonable price. Any suggestions?
Hi Corey, yes I sell cars we find all the time. We have a few coming in here shortly. Shoot me an email with what you're after and maybe I can help! -Matt/ITG Irontrapgarage@gmail.com
obviously you have never seen a "Spring Center bolt" Dorman has been making them for a hundred years. The head of the spring bolt centers the spring in the frame also, which your threaded rod will not, also , the REAL spring bolt is SAE thread and an enlarged slotted head (The things that actual experience can teach you).
We only used the threaded rod to align the springs when pulling the pack together. We simply do not recommend using the "Spring Center Bolt" to draw the pack together, we prefer to use two c clamps. Once the pack is tight, we remove the threaded rod or dowel pin and install the correct bolt. -Mike/ITG
I really enjoy your videos. Real hands-on work without a lot of drama. I appreciate someone who gets their hands dirty. Keep it up.
Thanks for the tip on the backing plate orientation, I'll have to double check mine
Exciting time huh Matt, finally all that hard work and labor is really starting to pay off. Nice job on taking your time with the assembly, can't wait to see it all come together..
Hello guys, it's a shame that your videos are so short !!!! I remain on my hunger every time on this project of Ford tree t .....
take care of yourself and continue with your great videos !!
eric from France
Rear end components look great, the chassis looks awesome cant wait to see the frontend and engine installed .
that new table getting some use already. ready to see this running
Looking good 👍 thumbs up on putting grease tween those springs.
Hey there never worked on pre 49 before so all your info and tips are great info versus money helps a lot
Thanks for watching! -Mike/ITG
getting close to go for a ride ..real happy for you
nice Jod mat.
Matt I see your digging that new table you got when you bought that hole punch machine. The chassis looks great.
I can’t wait to see more updates!!
Thanks man, I wanna be cruising around like you are in yours! -Matt/ITG
Hi guys , have you ever considered using a Jaguar diff assembly, they are used here in New Zealand quite extensively as it gives independent suspension, in board disk brakes , nice stance, and a nice ride , just wondering.? Love you clips , good to see how and why you do stuff , good entertainment during lockdown.
Another great video 👍
Hello Matt, Another well done informative video! I know it"s a bit early, but What about installing A weathered looking copper panel over top of the firewall? I think it would contrast nicely with the black body color?! Great job on the car. Greg
looking good
Inspired by this video Mike. I will be doing the same wide five conversion on my diff. Would you be able to share the part numbers for the baring and seals that you ordered please?
Did you use a shorter model A main leaf? The spring perch width of the A is 49-1/2" and the Model T and 35-40 is 48" causing the shackles to hang wrong with weight on it.
Couldn't help but notice the wires on the little yellow racer. Race of Gentlemen?
What are you doing for rear shock absorbers, or did I miss that episode? Looking good as always...
Your title states “Model A spring”. Model A’s were made between 1928 & 1931 and the springs were mounted directly over the axel housing and used brass not rubber bushings in the shackles. This spring and axel are from a newer vehicle. Also I believe these later springs were wider. Hope this helps
Hi Matt I see you used 5 springs I had 9 in mine took the top two off shortened them for spacers but the ride is still stiff i,5 is softer but how is the bounce, did you install shocks or are planning to keep up the good work
Hi Dale, this car is so light I'm afraid even 5 might be too stiff! We'll see! I plan to run 46-48 Ford lever shocks on the car. -Matt/ITG
You probably know this but if not always try to look for PN's on the old bearings/seals and try to order using that because they may be made for common applications like for tractors or pumps still being produced today.
Yep that’s how I found the new ones. Totally my error I should have known better!
I'm restoring a 26 model T coup in Australia but having a hard time finding a company to send parts to Australia at a reasonable price. Any suggestions?
Those washer's look the same as the old Willy's Jeep's
All the cleaning and painting, and you put dirty wheels on it...... haha, nice work.
Matt u still work for /with Eastwood ?
Yessir I do. 👍
With the rear on the chain hoist l thought I was watching an old Ford film
do you ever have cars for sale?
Hi Corey, yes I sell cars we find all the time. We have a few coming in here shortly. Shoot me an email with what you're after and maybe I can help! -Matt/ITG Irontrapgarage@gmail.com
obviously you have never seen a "Spring Center bolt" Dorman has been making them for a hundred years. The head of the spring bolt centers the spring in the frame also, which your threaded rod will not, also , the REAL spring bolt is SAE thread and an enlarged slotted head (The things that actual experience can teach you).
We only used the threaded rod to align the springs when pulling the pack together. We simply do not recommend using the "Spring Center Bolt" to draw the pack together, we prefer to use two c clamps. Once the pack is tight, we remove the threaded rod or dowel pin and install the correct bolt. -Mike/ITG
First finally! Lol
What's the deal with the BROOKES hotrod and custom shirt, like the look of it, Google doesnt turn up anything