This series is actually the most comprehensive installation guide for 996/986’s.. I can’t believe UA-cam had this ranked as the 20th result. Ordered one of these for a fun little winter project, this has helped a lot. Thank you!!!
I appreciate you taking the time to let me know. It took me almost a most to study the unit since it did not come with any kind of manual or installation instructions. I'm planning to do a follow up as a long term test on operation of the Android unit and so I hope you'll check in later for more information. Thank you!
Not sure if you've mentioned this in your other videos already, but if you have PCM2.0 or CDR23, the car's ISO Socket A connector doesn't have the ignition/ACC switched 12V (pin 7) that the unit needs to turn on. You'll have to find somewhere else in the car that does provide that power and connect a wire to it. The seller said look in the fuse box
Yes, it's mentioned in Part 5 when I talk about MOST based cars. I personally owned a 2003 and 2008 Porsche and understand what you're saying regarding the PCM2 and CDR-23. In those cars, the CANBUS signal handles turning on and off of the radio as well as sending reverse trigger for backup cameras. There are also rare cases where the CDR-23 was ordered from the factory and setup for non-MOST (i.e. no fiber optics) base systems and output SPEAKER LEVEL only via the BROWN socket B. But the majority of CDR-23 and PCM2 were solely MOST based. Thanks for the comment!
Where should the orange cable for lighting up the buttons on a PCCM clone be connected, and where should it draw power from? Please provide a detailed explanation for this.
The orange line that comes from the PCCM clone handles illumination. The orange line is located on the PCCM clone's main ISO wire harness (black plug on the far right) and runs from the radio and to the CAN BUS decoder. You need to tap into that orange line and connect it to pin#6 on the car's ISO socket A (Black plug). The PCCM clone did NOT include a pin tap for pin#6 on the PCCM clone's ISO radio socket; therefore, you will need to cut the PCCM clone's orange line and either insert a pin on #6 of the PCCM clone's socket or tap into the car's illumination line that is found on the factory ISO plug A pin #6. I believe factory illumination wire on ISO A should be pin#6 and is light blue/white in color. Can't be 100% on the color. If more people ask, I might do a video demonstration on this topic.
I also have this radio for the 996 from 2001. I have 6 speakers and it wired just like you said. For me, however, only comes from two speakers on the dashboard sound. What could be the reason? Thanks in advance. Warm regards
My guess is the green/black line from the back of the C1 ISO socket is NOT connected (i.e. looped) to the red/white line. This connection is shown at 3:35 min on this video: ua-cam.com/video/RAOjPkOAfIE/v-deo.html A common mistake is to forget to connect these lines OR connect the red/white line to the green/black line that comes from the CAN BUS decoder cable. You do NOT want to connect the red/white line to the green/black line from the decoder. That's wrong. Instead, you want to loop the green/black line from the back of the ISO C1 socket to the red/while line that ALSO comes from the back of C1 ISO socket. (ref 4 min mark in the video) This will give you 4-channel audio to the factory 6-channel amplifier. As noted in the video series, the factory HAES amps receive 4-channel LINE LEVEL inputs, and then duplicate two of those channels to give you 6-channel SPEAKER LEVEL output to the dash, door, and rear speakers.
@ Hello, thank you for the quick reply. I had wired the cables correctly. Thank you for explaining why you need the bridge or loop. They are not off but only quieter than before have now tried to adjust it via the equalizer works now quite okay. If you have a hint why they are now quieter, I am very happy. Nevertheless, thank you very much for the super help! Warm regards
Yes, because the PCCM clone ONLY offers 2-channel pre-amp output (not counted the sub output). The factory HAES amplifier needs 4-channels of pre-amp LINE LEVEL audio to work correctly. Looping (i.e. splitting the audio signals) the 2-channels of pre-amp output to feed the 3rd and 4th pre-amp input on your ISO C1 socket works, BUT eliminates your ability to FADE the audio from front to back. If you FADE the audio from the front to the rear you'll notice a decrease in volume to the point of no audio at all. It's best to keep the FADER control to the middle or front, but NOT the rear. Hope that makes sense. The PCCM clone should have been designed to support 4-channel pre-amp audio output. Still a darn good unit for the price. They offer so much audio I/O but I'm still scratching my head why they didn't at least have 4-channels of pre-amp output via the RCA cables. Most higher-end aftermarket radios (Alpine, Kenwood, Sony, etc.) have begun offering 6+ channels of pre-amp output.
I think what would have been useful is to actually see you making all the connections and their respective uses or reasons of why you were doing something; rather than provide an explanation at the end which is still useful but there's no substitute to actually watching an expert like you actually do it. That would enable novices like me to remember and repeat :)
Thank you for that comment. In hindsight, I think I should have spent more time showing it being connected to the car. I appreciate your support. I'll definitely make a note of this for future productions.
@@RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe Mostly YTubers do not reply to those who aren't subscribers to their channel, and since you have so kindly, I'll subscribe.
Question... have you watched the entire series? If not you might find it useful to watch the first 5 parts where I explain the connections and how they connect in the car. Here's a link to the entire playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ1P17ZJCyACzWvQUT_h0gDWu8-daPvvI.html
@@RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe I did. An example if I may; Removing the 1 Din centre bar in the factory surround/fascia is fairly self explanatory. However, if I was doing it, I'd like to know how much to cut and where exactly to cut, so that the metal 2 Din cage goes in securely and tightly without either rattling around or repeatedly having to take chucks out of the plastic receiving body as it wasn't cut big enough initially. Similarly, with routing the cable for the climate control and installing it. It looks simple to do with an amount of manipulation, but would still have been better to see it done. Don't get me wrong your sectioned videos and explanation are first rate. Sorry for the rambling :)
This series is actually the most comprehensive installation guide for 996/986’s.. I can’t believe UA-cam had this ranked as the 20th result. Ordered one of these for a fun little winter project, this has helped a lot. Thank you!!!
I appreciate you taking the time to let me know. It took me almost a most to study the unit since it did not come with any kind of manual or installation instructions. I'm planning to do a follow up as a long term test on operation of the Android unit and so I hope you'll check in later for more information. Thank you!
Just got this same radio in the mail a day ago. appreciate the explanations and information you've provided. Thank you!
great! thank you for letting me know and I'm happy to hear it's helped you.
Not sure if you've mentioned this in your other videos already, but if you have PCM2.0 or CDR23, the car's ISO Socket A connector doesn't have the ignition/ACC switched 12V (pin 7) that the unit needs to turn on. You'll have to find somewhere else in the car that does provide that power and connect a wire to it. The seller said look in the fuse box
Yes, it's mentioned in Part 5 when I talk about MOST based cars. I personally owned a 2003 and 2008 Porsche and understand what you're saying regarding the PCM2 and CDR-23. In those cars, the CANBUS signal handles turning on and off of the radio as well as sending reverse trigger for backup cameras. There are also rare cases where the CDR-23 was ordered from the factory and setup for non-MOST (i.e. no fiber optics) base systems and output SPEAKER LEVEL only via the BROWN socket B. But the majority of CDR-23 and PCM2 were solely MOST based. Thanks for the comment!
Familiar sounding voice!
Where should the orange cable for lighting up the buttons on a PCCM clone be connected, and where should it draw power from? Please provide a detailed explanation for this.
And thank you deeply for the excellent video.
The orange line that comes from the PCCM clone handles illumination. The orange line is located on the PCCM clone's main ISO wire harness (black plug on the far right) and runs from the radio and to the CAN BUS decoder. You need to tap into that orange line and connect it to pin#6 on the car's ISO socket A (Black plug). The PCCM clone did NOT include a pin tap for pin#6 on the PCCM clone's ISO radio socket; therefore, you will need to cut the PCCM clone's orange line and either insert a pin on #6 of the PCCM clone's socket or tap into the car's illumination line that is found on the factory ISO plug A pin #6. I believe factory illumination wire on ISO A should be pin#6 and is light blue/white in color. Can't be 100% on the color. If more people ask, I might do a video demonstration on this topic.
I also have this radio for the 996 from 2001. I have 6 speakers and it wired just like you said. For me, however, only comes from two speakers on the dashboard sound. What could be the reason? Thanks in advance. Warm regards
My guess is the green/black line from the back of the C1 ISO socket is NOT connected (i.e. looped) to the red/white line. This connection is shown at 3:35 min on this video:
ua-cam.com/video/RAOjPkOAfIE/v-deo.html
A common mistake is to forget to connect these lines OR connect the red/white line to the green/black line that comes from the CAN BUS decoder cable. You do NOT want to connect the red/white line to the green/black line from the decoder. That's wrong. Instead, you want to loop the green/black line from the back of the ISO C1 socket to the red/while line that ALSO comes from the back of C1 ISO socket. (ref 4 min mark in the video) This will give you 4-channel audio to the factory 6-channel amplifier. As noted in the video series, the factory HAES amps receive 4-channel LINE LEVEL inputs, and then duplicate two of those channels to give you 6-channel SPEAKER LEVEL output to the dash, door, and rear speakers.
@ Hello, thank you for the quick reply. I had wired the cables correctly. Thank you for explaining why you need the bridge or loop. They are not off but only quieter than before have now tried to adjust it via the equalizer works now quite okay. If you have a hint why they are now quieter, I am very happy. Nevertheless, thank you very much for the super help! Warm regards
Yes, because the PCCM clone ONLY offers 2-channel pre-amp output (not counted the sub output). The factory HAES amplifier needs 4-channels of pre-amp LINE LEVEL audio to work correctly. Looping (i.e. splitting the audio signals) the 2-channels of pre-amp output to feed the 3rd and 4th pre-amp input on your ISO C1 socket works, BUT eliminates your ability to FADE the audio from front to back. If you FADE the audio from the front to the rear you'll notice a decrease in volume to the point of no audio at all. It's best to keep the FADER control to the middle or front, but NOT the rear. Hope that makes sense. The PCCM clone should have been designed to support 4-channel pre-amp audio output. Still a darn good unit for the price. They offer so much audio I/O but I'm still scratching my head why they didn't at least have 4-channels of pre-amp output via the RCA cables. Most higher-end aftermarket radios (Alpine, Kenwood, Sony, etc.) have begun offering 6+ channels of pre-amp output.
I think what would have been useful is to actually see you making all the connections and their respective uses or reasons of why you were doing something; rather than provide an explanation at the end which is still useful but there's no substitute to actually watching an expert like you actually do it. That would enable novices like me to remember and repeat :)
Thank you for that comment. In hindsight, I think I should have spent more time showing it being connected to the car. I appreciate your support. I'll definitely make a note of this for future productions.
@@RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe Mostly YTubers do not reply to those who aren't subscribers to their channel, and since you have so kindly, I'll subscribe.
Question... have you watched the entire series? If not you might find it useful to watch the first 5 parts where I explain the connections and how they connect in the car. Here's a link to the entire playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ1P17ZJCyACzWvQUT_h0gDWu8-daPvvI.html
@@thesheriff99 Thank you! Again!
@@RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe I did. An example if I may; Removing the 1 Din centre bar in the factory surround/fascia is fairly self explanatory. However, if I was doing it, I'd like to know how much to cut and where exactly to cut, so that the metal 2 Din cage goes in securely and tightly without either rattling around or repeatedly having to take chucks out of the plastic receiving body as it wasn't cut big enough initially. Similarly, with routing the cable for the climate control and installing it. It looks simple to do with an amount of manipulation, but would still have been better to see it done. Don't get me wrong your sectioned videos and explanation are first rate. Sorry for the rambling :)