The Risinger Build Ep 17 - Soundproofing, Drywall & Wall Penetration
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- In this episode of The Risinger Build, Matt introduces a groundbreaking construction material that’s transforming how homes are built. Joined by experts Kyle Flondor & Breton Betz of USG, they explore the remarkable capabilities of fire resistant and high STC STRUCTO-CRETE® Brand Structural Panels, originally designed for commercial applications but now redefining residential construction. These noncombustible panels combine safety, durability, and acoustic performance, making them ideal for enhancing comfort and privacy in custom homes.
Matt is joined by Lydia Crowder, also known as @drywallshorty on Instagram, and they explore best practices for achieving a flawless drywall finish. From addressing pocket door frames and hanger bulges to navigating skylight challenges and heavy utility plates, this walkthrough is packed with tips for builders and contractors.
Matt takes viewers on a walkthrough of The Risinger Build and demonstrates how these USG Sheetrock® Panels are installed in critical areas. He highlights their ability to reduce noise transfer, especially when paired with staggered stud framing, acoustic caulking, and proper insulation. Breton provides technical insights, explaining the panels’ structural strength, their mass for low-frequency sound attenuation, and their fire-resistant properties.
Learn how these panels are cut, installed, and finished to look like traditional walls while providing unmatched performance. Perfect for builders, architects, and homeowners, this episode is a masterclass in modern building science, offering practical tips to elevate any project. Whether you’re designing for fire safety, sound control, or structural integrity, this video is a must-watch for anyone in construction. Episode sponsored by USG.
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I'm addicted to your 'shows' Matt! + it's great the way you bring on experts (like Lydia).. when time for my 'dream house', just going to go to your channel - and w/ architect + GC, use same products (+ processes)!! THX.
Lydia is so personable and professional. Great to have her perspective.
Man. I wish all of these were part of standard build practice! 3 studs at door, alternating studs, double insulation, and 5/8”s drywall with double for sound walls!! Plus the acoustic sealant everywhere!! Man, if only they did this in nicer townhomes etc! 🎉
🤔 Thinking Structo-Crete to replace drywall in kitchens. Moisture resistant, strong flat structural surface for cabinets and backsplashes…. seems perfect solution. Great video as always Matt!
It’s a nice finish also , very modern classic especially if stained
loved seeing all the info on structure-crete. I would love to use it in my next house in Tampa Fl, Send that flood surge and hurricanes packing.
Would have save a friend condo in Naples! 🙌🏻
Matt is a good salesman...
Ill give him that...
I love her insight. Thanks for bringing her in!
I was planning a cinder block movie theater. Strutocrete is a tempting alternative.
Double 5/8 is great. So to reduce costs and to help isolate walls for soundproofing - consider using a beadbacker/caulk/beadbacker sandwich in all corners (ceiling/walls/floors/windows/doors) instead of just caulk. By mixing materials, you change densities and the beadbacker isolates surfaces to lessen vibrations. What are you going to do with ventilation noise Matt?
Here’s a trade secret. The green glue stuff and the special sound drywall is not nearly as good as just going with double 5/8”and staggered stud exterior with rockwool in all walls. What works in a lab won’t be replicated by your installers.
Not gonna lie, having a 5 min conversation about a skylight and not showing it was annoying.
I thought the same thing
I've commented on this in the past with some of his videos as well. It's perceived to be way more professional when the subject context/detail is being considered in the shot as you mentioned. I'm not sure if Matt thought it would be something that would be added via post editing from b-roll or if he's subbing out to a novice/helper cameraman...?
I thought you recommended Rockwool insulation for sound reduction because it performed much better than fiberglass batts due to it's mass. Why didn't you use it here. Was it because Owens Corning sponsored you on this build?
Comfortbatt is roughly 2lb per cubic foot, while the average fiberglass batt is 1.5 lb/ft3, so wouldn't that mean comfortbatt adds less than 3 ounces of mass to every square foot of 2x4 wall assembly compared with fiberglass?
If my math is off, I can say it's imperceptible and I've never seen any wall assembly test data which indicates the difference between the two is enough to increase the STC by 1 point
I believe ComfortBatt is Rockwells mineral wool product recommended for insulating, and SafeNSound is their interior wall mineral wool for sound deadening. I don't know the differences. Maybe density, maybe thickness. Time for some research. Maybe Matt has covered this in previous videos.
There are 16 ounces to a lb. So an increase of .5 lb is 8 ounces more, not 3. That is a 33% increase from 1.5 to 2.
The performance is very similar, and the pink stuff is way cheaper.
@@alwaysvacationing5341 that was per cubic foot, so I divided that by 3 since one square foot of wall would only have 12x12x4" of insulation, rather than a full cubic foot. Even if you did get 0.5lbs extra, you can add an extra 2lb per square foot by doubling the drywall on one side of the wall.
If you google "wall assembly STC rating test" you'll find several results in first couple pages with hundreds of different wall designs tested and their STC. Good luck with your build!
A lot of good info and as a tile man that outside corner in the bathroom that meets with the sheetrock corner has got to be dialed in Plumb both ways and it's got to be finished correctly because of patterns
You guys need to talk to hilti asap and get some of their Exo-S exoskeletons for the overhead blocking in the rest of the house. This repetitive overhead work is exactly what they were made for, and I'm sure they would love the exposure.
Great stuff. Thanks! Question: when doing double drywall layers with acoustic caulk: are you taping or caulking the gaps between sheets on the first layer? Not completely clear from the vids.
Im pretty sure the first layer was not taped at all
Eyy, my L&W brothers made it into a video!
Not a popular idea with USG, but I am a proponent of using alternate materials to sheet rock on surfaces where possible. Sheet rock is obsolete.
Matt the two drywalls are connected through your sill and top plates : to isolate have to use two separated plates!
Mat with 2 layers of drywall doesn't those electrical outlets need to be bumped out more or is there a difference electrical box for dbl drywall
I thought the same thing!
for big 'bulgy' areas where you put on drywall.... use 5/8 drywall and cut out the area where the plate it... then do a "repair" drywall with 1/2 drywall, or just remove some of the back side of the drywall to make room for the bulging object.
Mat should the tap joint be done b4 the next layer of drywall
You'd actually want as heavy as possible drywall for sound dampening. Holy hell!!! Those Structo-Crete panels are heavy!
I like the 5/8" drywall idea but what happens with all the stock interior door jambs and the windows? Gap between jambs and trim?
You have to prep for that with your door vendor. I learned that the hard way
Matt! Love your content! So so informative. But on this, why don’t you like mass load vinyl? ;)
Hey Matt, What do you think about using acoustic chalk between the layers of drywall to decouple the two layers?
Known to improve performance I believe you can find the official STC ratings for this
warner plumbing youll have to fill a aplication out with pulte HR dept
Mat I've seen on other builders for passive home they place drywall between the inner walls and the outer walls for thermo break what do you think about that
Can you make concrete forms with structo crete. And 3in foam on opposite side with ties back. With a bot to precut . Sort of like ICF - thinking about this idea. As way back did ICF and seems maybe a way to make better ICF , like unfilled precast ready to fill sort of product?
Since the 5/8" drywall adds mass does that mean you should not use a lightweight drywall? I'd like to use the 5/8" but will the lightweight negate this additional desired mass?
Exactly you want the heavy drywall for the heat mass. I did it at my house and it is double the weight than the 1/2 light, but the thermal mass really makes a huge difference. Its a lot more work to install because of the weight but the long term benefits are well worth it.
Just remember that not only does 5/8 block wifi substantially more than 1/2, the higher mass blocks it even more. When deciding to do major soundproofing and using high end materials like this, plan for WIRED wifi access points in a lot more rooms. Typically you are looking at a few db of signal loss on 1/2, an extar 2~ on 5/8, and another 1-2 on the higher mass ones.
Mat this calking just kills me lol
u can drop your app off at any pulte model home or the third floor of probation dept they handle applications also for me
Matt you just had to throw in that extra second to your video. My OCD is gonna drive me crazy
I cannot find the 1/2" product on USG's site, only 3/4".
Matt, obviously you don't do much caulking! 😂😂😂😂
One hour? Whoa.
I had all my ceilings done with 5/8", when the contractor says that's only 1/8" thicker than 1/2", point out it's also 25% thicker. They will likely complain about it and not want to do it but it's not the end of the world.
i think you need before/after testing for each change. some items might be useful, some seem more fluff.....
I would say it’s not quite accurate to use the term “soundproofing” when referring to the acoustic measures employed on that wall between the bedroom and hallway because there is no resilient layer to interrupt the transference of sound energy through the wall. Yes, the 2x4 framing on each side of the wall is staggered, but it’s attached to a solid 2x6 plate top and bottom. You will get a nice reduction in sound transmittance through this wall, but a resilient layer somewhere in the assembly (or a true double stud wall) is required for it to be considered a soundproofing strategy. You might think I’m splitting hairs, but using the term “soundproofing” can set up a performance expectation that this assembly will not be able to achieve. That said, I think the “cheap tricks” you have utilized in this wall will be relatively effective in accomplishing your acoustic goals at a very reasonable cost.
Interestingly, you touched on this point (soundproofing vs. sound abatement) in your discussion with the USG rep starting at around 36:50, but didn’t make the differentiation when talking with Drywall Shorty.
I also like the idea of using the 1/2” Structo-Crete for sound abatement. I’m curious as to why you didn’t add a layer of 5/8” Sheetrock over it in the Master BR like you did in the so-called baby’s room. As the USG guy said, that difference in mass between the two materials would cut out a broader range of sound frequencies. In this case, however, I think two layers of 5/8” gyp over a resilient acoustical mat (or other resilient layer) might have been more cost-effective-and better performance-than using the Structo-Crete. Would be interesting to see a cost and STC rating comparison between the two approaches.
true double walls eat up so much floor space though. I'd say staggered studs with pink stuff insulation is the best bang for the buck.
Why not knoch the spots out so the stuff would fit flush then
Out of curiosity, why use a 5$ putty pad instead of a quarter's worth of spray foam to stop air flow at the back of the junction boxes?
If imagine the pads have a little more elasticity as time goes on but I could be wrong
From the casual way he said “this elastic pad is cheap 3-5, 5 dollars…” … I thought “Five bucks for each electrical box in a house that size…” - oh wait, he gets em for free. So that’s the way I would do it too. Free.
What is the longest drywall sheet you can get
12 ft, the largest sheet is 4.5 ft x 12 ft x 5/8"
Ty
and sonically;... put a small air gap between the two sheets....
Shouldn't dur rock over drywall at corners in bathroom shower
That gal is strong, I can tell!
5/8 is not much more mass than 1/2. Just do 2 layers if you want more mass.
should use rock wool - much better sonically than fiberglass..........
I wager the drywallers would prefer you just used blocking to block out the area the access panel will take and let them route out that hole after applying a whole sheet.
Another tidbit although this is more of a commercial for 5/8 sheetrock which is better a bunch of it is unnecessary especially behind the sink area in the kitchen the problem is going to be on the floor
oh no not more youtubers!
You can get lightweight 5/8s drywall at a drywall supply, your installers will love you!... and it's just a hair more expensive.
All the "mass" he talks about is also reduced and the performance goes down.
@ true!
That totally negates the sound absorption properties.
Hey Matt, you know how you get the most mass the easiest way? ICF!
You show the common problems, how about sharing common fixes to spacing for rock .
my kids are jerks I wanna hear what's going on in their room
Please fire the camera who is absolutely clueless. How do you stand there and not show the skylight even once while they talk about it for ten mins and keep looking up the whole time. Maybe hire a cameraman that speaks and understands English so they can follow the conversation 🤦♂️
I see fiberglass, why... Come on !
My guess is cost since it is cheaper than acoustic insulation and fiberglass gets tax credits
haley tone it down some, paxton of listening to rachy...
rachy i found more plumbers, warner plumbing. are u still gonna adopt eddie or not? yes,tues when your teaching crypto class i run to the courthouse and file the adoption papers... i think its the job and family services who handles adoptions
Like this UA-cam channel but hate his annoying introduction and ending “ooooonn the rising we build!”
1/4 inch screws for the drywall around the pocket door??? Your drywall is 5/8... that makes 0 sense. If your drywall is 5/8... and the osb behind it is 1/2... You can use a 1 inch drywall screw and not damage the door behind the drywall+osb... what are these 2 thinking lol.
Damn you sck at everything you do, worst caulking 2024
fixmyproperty AI fixes this. Soundproofing, Drywall, Wall Penetration