I wish Scott could build my house. He truly seems like the type of builder that is giving his all to make these houses the absolute best that they can be within the budget. He also gives off the vibes that if something were to go wrong he would be there instantly to fix the problem without fighting the customer on it
Literally would have no doubts that things are getting done right and staying budget friendly. That would be a dream prize pack even if he could just be involved with planning of my house
@@buildshow Yes indeed. I just mentioned Scott's name and what he practices on exterior insulation and how he deals with penetration to the builder here on Prince Edward Island, Atlantic Canada. Details of air tight are part of the interviewing process with the builders for this air tight build planned for 2025'ish. Matt, your name was mentioned as well as Steve Baczeks and J. Lstiburek. The perfect roof and wall, window sealing and continuity of the outer envelope, rain screen, bug screen....framing details that Steve B. talkes and show in his Boston build show and what you have shown in your vids Matt. The "men" that I interview, as a female, are generally surprised by the building science I understand, as shown in my interviews with them. So, Matt, keep that Scott coming as a regular guest. He is so sincere and genuine and an honest kind of guy....nothing fake about him...Perfect, onnnn The Build Show!☺🇨🇦
Scott's last name, True, seems to be as much a statement about his striving for excellence and offering his clients the best value for money as it is a last name. Hats off to Matt and Scott for being true to their principles.
I'm a tile contractor who builds mostly showers. I whole heartedly agree with Scott's philosophy about mixing manufacturers and feeling comfortable with YOUR product. I also use Kerdi on top of my mortar bed shower pans, with FloFx drains, and Hydro Ban or Hydro Barrier with Laticrete reinforcing fabric on all corners and seams. It is a super bomb proof installation and I can say that Scott has nothing to worry about here. Another consideration is that any manufacturer warranty covers THEIR product, and if a shower needs to get ripped out due to a failure, the $1000 in that manufacturers materials is the least of my concerns. Worst case, that's what liability insurance is for. Best case, make sure that never happens.
Why not use all laticrete products? They make their own membrane to cover mud base? I get the drain you chose 1st it’s the best tho laticretes not bad . And why even use a mud pan? Use laticretes preformed pans- no need to worry about blocked weep holes you get perfect even slope you save hours of work and mess and of course laticrete in every product category cheaper than Schleuter equivalent as you undoubtedly know …
@@johnwhite2576 Good points. Sometimes I'm using what's available locally. For the laticrete products, I have to drive to Austin, which I do sometimes.
@@johnwhite2576 Good questions. I've tried many combinations and systems and this is what I install every time now. Kerdi is slightly thinner and more flexible than HyrdoBan sheet membrane, it lays down nicer on the pan. I use mortar beds over foam pans because I know that no matter the site conditions, shower size and shape, drain placement, subfloor levelness etc, I can install my base that day and it comes out exactly how I want it to every time. Also, mortar bed is money in my pocket, foam pan is money in Schluter's pocket. You are correct about Laticrete being cheaper than Schulter though. I do use all Laticrete thinset.
Can we get more Scott? I feel like we need to know his back story, his hobbies, his epic quests. And I feel like "Scott True" should be a rating of truth. Like 'That's not just true, that's Scott True!"
Scott is the best builder in my opinion. His attention to detail and thinking outside the box to bring value and durability to the homes he builds really shines through in his methods and attitude. Definitely my kind a honest builder who cares about his clients and the product he can give them at a reasonable value! Great job Scott! Thank you Matt for bringing him on your show from time to time.
Really great video - you asked Scott some great questions and he did a thorough job of provided detailed answers. I appreciate his attention to detail, without needing to use the most expensive stuff ever. A smart builder who gets 95% of the results with a much lesser budget.
@@buildshow Please post Scott regularly and when both your schedules permit. He represents what the average DIY"er would really like to know and understand...and afford. Thank you Matt for helping all of us so much. 🙏🇨🇦
Scott brings up a ton of valid points. The biggest is that few people have unlimited resources. Trade-offs must be made. His discussions on the return-on-investment are well explored. MORE SCOTT please!
I am fully impressed! It's just a complete ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions. These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Scott True! I subscribe to his channel as well. Totally enjoy watching what he has applied and what he thinks about trying things. So genuine and sincere. Keep educating us....just yesterday I mentioned Scotts name and practice with exterior insulation and the drainage wrap over the Zip but under the exterior insulation....thank you so much Scott and for Matt for having Scott on again. Keep him as a regular guest please! Atlantic Canada appreciates your channel! 👍 💯 🇨🇦
@@buildshow Yes, the build here on Prince Edward Island, zone 7, relies on your channels guests and air tight practices Matt. I cannot stress enough how instrumental your channel has been, as well as your podcasts and Steve Baczeks architectural Big Red moments. I am so grateful for all you are doing to help us. Outstanding contribution to all of us even here in the colder climates. I really appreciate when you comment about how cold climate builds need to consider different options compared to Texas or warmer climate builds. Please keep pointing out what Cold Climate builds may need to consider when you are showing a warmer climate build. You did a little bit of this pointing out in this vid. There are a lot of us who live in cold climates that are subscribers to your "warm" channel😉🙏🇨🇦
This is exactly how I wanted to build my exterior walls. I ended up just doing 2x6 walls and air sealing everything myself. When I mentioned exterior insulation to any builder around here, they looked at me like I had 2 heads. The one that entertained the idea wouldn't even estimate a price for labor.
My buddy found that out interviewing builders for his house. I think he went through a dozen. Nobody knew what ICF was, nobody knew how to do exterior insulation. Most builders are just lick and stick up a shitty house and walk away. They don't care about efficiency or best practice at all.
I've had a similar experience, except the few builders who know about and do this kind of thing are extremely expensive. Look up "Mooney" walls to break the thermal bridging.
Where abouts do you live? I live in the San Antonio area, and yes, the struggle is real here on this front. BTW, for those considering ICF, look into Helix micro rebar as a way to reduce the labor/time for working a rebar lattice into your build. I would have gone this route before the economy tanked and finances got screwey
I'm a true believer in higher performance windows 100% with the justification being comfort when standing/sitting beside the windows, and NOT anything to do with energy savings.
Really enjoyed this video. Enjoy your walk arounds with Scott. My builder was at the Las Vegas show with his crew. He was showing me a few new things he would like to do with my build. Can’t wait… breaking ground next week!
OMG, another amazing home detail review with SCOTT, for the more practical everyday homeowner! Only 1 QUESTION: why not ZIP R-6 sheathing? Is it more expensive than Zip with outside insulation? We definitely need more shows like this... AND we need a Matt & Steve list of builders nationally. I need one in Coastal NC. Cheers, Eric
Scott, always look forward to your reply to the comments below. You keep perspectives grounded without all the "hype" that youtube channels can bring. Thank you for putting yourself out there! Atlantic Canada is true to Scott True and a big fan!☺🙏🇨🇦
We are replacing the siding on the house,,, and new windows, doors as well. I've decided to ad the 1.5 Foamular iso board with a Block It wrap then vinyl siding. Love the content,, it's helping be prepare tremendously. Mid Michigan here,,looking forward to the more comfortable house.
It's not just drainage, it's a micro moisture barrier requirement. When installing exterior insulation you can encapsulate moisture from the dew point in the wall. With EIFS, for example, you need a 3/8s air gap to accommodate any moisture. If you heat or cool the space inside you're going to have a condensation point in most cases. Ideally, there would be no fastener penetrations channeling hot or cold inside the wall unless there's a thermal break as well. In warmer, drier climates it isn't as crucial, but here in Canada, it is imperative. I love the details in the build, especially the bug screens. Keep up the good work!
The single cable per hole electrical sealing thing made me think of how it's done in industrial applications. Might be able to do on homes also with far less labor and a neater / tighter final product. Search Eaton Crouse-Hinds EYS or conduit sealing fitting. They are used to seal off hazardous environments so by nature have to be air tight for say Class I hazardous gas locations. Could have the fitting inside the house to keep it out of the elements and use sealed conduit to then penetrate out.
I feel like there are so many builders who just check boxes and/or spec materials because they are the newest tech. Scott is a builder who actually considers the function of each item and whether or not the commonly-used components are overly redundant and the system as a whole can be better-engineered. He's a proper builder, rather than someone who installs homes.
Scott is great! Budget and future minded. Too often those two mix like oil and water, but not with Scott's attention to details and knowledge of what the goals are. Thank you Scott...oh ya and Matt.
I feel like the absolute lowest cost / best result airgap solution would be for ZIP to texture the surface of their OSB 1/16" when they compress it at the factory, before they apply the air barrier material.
I agree. I live in zone 7 here in Canada and will be applying 6 inches of rigid foam on the exterior, furring strips with counter sink holes for the structural screws. I was going to do what Joe Lstiburek said to Scott, the textured tyvek drain between the sheathing and the first of 3 layers of rigid foam. If zip would texture their sheathing....Boom! Mission accomplished! 👍☺💝
Scott True Builds 52 minutes ago Good points. This is a real dilemma. A while back, I use to try to sell high performance and it was difficult for me. I'm not going to change what people are interested in. So here's what I do: For my spec homes, I have a specific formula, which does not include exterior insulation, but does include many high performance details. I can build those homes at a low enough cost to sell them at competitive prices to people that pretty much don't care about high performance. In fact, I don't even tell them until after closing. I do this because I just can't build any other way. Plus, it allows me to constantly learn, get better, and show what I'm doing to people that do care. Most of this showing is happening off line when people call our company. Ideally, I would be on UA-cam more often to show this to a larger audience. I'm getting there. Then when people reach out looking specifically for high performance, we can dial in those details as far as they want to go with it.
At this point in building science, it makes more sense to insulate the outside of the house. It is much faster, and easier install than interior walls, and not a luxury like Scott says. My Dad was an architect, designed and built one of our houses in D.C., with extra wall insulation, but even then we had pipes freeze in the wall. And we also know that in Texas, it can and does get cold. Exterior insulation makes much more sense the more you think about it, as long as it can still withstand water and wind events..
I get why you add the air gap behind insulation for a drainage plane, in your climate. Being in a northern climate, would worry that the loss in R value of the wall assembly would defeat the purpose not to mention the potential to increase condensation potential there.
I love the out of the box sort of thinking he demonstrates. It is easy to just buy the latest and greatest, but overwhelmingly people cannot afford a home that is 2x-10x more than comparable homes in the area, even if the numbers work out over 20+ years. Last I read average time of owning a home is about 4 years... I really appreciate seeing the 1 inch foam detail on the exterior since that is what I am planning on doing. I first wanted two inches but it is (here) cheaper to buy two 1 inch pieces than 1 two inch piece, and you have the added advantage of two foil barriers. My current issue is trying to figure out how I am going to finish out windows with the unusual wall thicknesses. I've thought about recessing them so that they are flush with the interior wall, creating a shadow box effect, but I am not sold on that yet..
Love the efforts to practice building science within budget constraints. Having said that, the envelope would be more practical to be Insulated concrete forms, would be multiple steps of the build in one step and similar in cost if not cheaper.
13:53, a trick I read about for mounting a TV to an apartment's wall comes to mind. You buy some 2x4s and some drywall to create a bit of a false wall to place on top of the real wall. Just make sure that the studs in the false wall line up with the studs in the real wall for attachment purposes. Now, in the false wall, you can cut holes (behind the TV) to run wires and stuff like. Then, when it's time to move out, you can remove the false wall without any major damage to the real wall. This comes to mind, because this might be a hand way to inset speakers.
What is the cost difference between poly-iso (aftermarket) versus buying Zip sheathing with it built-in insulation? It seems like you could avoid a bunch of these details, risk, and labor. More labor “passes” for all these materials means more opportunities for things to not be right
I wondered about this too. Zip-R would save quite a lot of labor, while sacrificing the benefit of the foil layers. Not sure about the cost difference.
Always been thinking about insulation from outside as well as from inside. But two 1 inch layers with end joints staggered - even better. Love the vent pipes go trough the wall on top. Because those galvanized pipes roof boots get rusty in few years, and plastic ones also can UV deteriorate.
Matt, got hand it to who ever preped the thumbnail for this vid, Smart Builder photo of Scott True is well....really "smart" looking! Keep up the good work to you both from Atlantic Canada zone 7😊🇨🇦 🛠🪚🪜
At the end of the day. We (the contractor) must stand behind our work. I mix products all the time in order to make it bulletproof by my own standards👍 I do bathrooms remodel
I enjoyed the video! With all the talk about sustainability and reducing waste in the world of construction the one thing that I hope Scott is doing with those Arlington boxes is that if he is not using the adjustable flange in some situations that he sends it back to the manufacturer. To create a part like that for a product takes a lot of energy, time and resources and to just throw it into a landfill where it will sit for the next 500 years because you’re not using it on one particular install is a total waste. If Scott returns it to the manufacturer they can just send it out to the next customer and prevent a perfectly good piece of construction material from becoming garbage. Matt, do you ever ask your suppliers if they would be willing to take back parts that you don't need at that time so they can be reused by the manufacturer?
Here is a question for Matt or Scott or this community. Scott talked in the vid about Lstiburek suggesting placing the drainage wrap over the sheathing but inside of the rigid foam. I listened to Lstiburek in another vid suggest that in case water got between the sheathing and the most inside rigid foam it would have a space to drain. In doing more research there are building science people who do not include that drainage wrap over the sheathing and only over the most exposed rigid foam. We saw that Scott found even the dashes of liquid flash may not be effective to create enough of a gap. Remember, there is hydro tension to consider if the air gap is not wide enough. STeve Baczek talked about this on one of his vids. Can someone clarify, with being in zone 7 Canada, if that drainage plan is really needed? I talked with a builder here on Prince Edward Island, CAnada, where I live, and to eliminate any rain getting in between the rigid foam we were thinking of using the "brake" to bend aluminum to cap off the top. That would be the only place water could get in...maybe rain hitting it even under the eaves due to rain...and we are getting a lot of hurricanes now so wind direction is changing and more forceful. I continue to research and hope a few of you will answer. I might copy and paste this comment and add it to Matt's channel comments and Steve Baczeks as well. Cheers ☺🇨🇦 Long live our buildings👍
Try polyiso in the Midwest. Carpenter ants LOVE this stuff. They will channel it to an insulation value of R0! I have taken down polyiso panels on houses where only the aluminum foil was left. There was only dust in-between. All the way to the roof on 2-story houses. You have an obsession with foam boards, including ZIP, and it is time you pay attention to the insects that live on this planet and that obliterate this material!!! Customers be warned, you also need to pay attention to builders that don't know what they are doing.
Using a 4in deck screw, well it's a 3/4 inch fur strip, 2 inches of foam insulation, 1/2 zip sheeting, so your going into the stud 3/4 of a inch, an then you fastner you windows an siding to the fur strips? Pretty Hardie recommends 2 inch solid penetration into structure for the installation of their product.
I'll add one thing about out-sulation penetrations and even rainscreen penetrations. When possible (for wires, etc), angle the objects down slightly so water can travel away from the interior.
I talked to Joe when I took his course on Renovation and the dimpled material he suggests has to do with air and moisture moving through the sheathing and providing a means for any condensation to get out of the apace between the sheathing and exterior plastic foam. The exterior insulation will not let any moisture through it so it a conservative way to take care of the unknown. Without it there is no way for any moisture to get out and the sheathing will rot.
Scott, I just clicked you site from here. Please paint your HVAC vents the color of the wall. One of those things that you can't not see once you've been in a custom market. Easy to just lay them out in the garage when the walls are getting done. Back of the tip and settings. You'll get another type of paint after a while.
IMO better to detach an outdoor shower from the house. Even offset 6" from the house walls lowers cost and reduces risk to damaging the house. Plus way easier for a future owner to remove. Drain can go into a gray water waste system for landscape use. A much thinner concrete slab can be used.
Amazing details and love that he mixes lower cost with the high performance. That venting area is a phenomenal idea (would likely not work with the snow in my area) but if you did monopoly framing and frame on top for the overhang as well as to vent the roofing would you in theory be able to run your vents into that area so they would all disappear completely?
I love the details for your house, you are an awesome builder. At 23:15 you show the plumbing vents exiting the side wall which makes the roof lines amazingly clean. I would be concerned about cavity nesting birds like sparrows and starlings entering the uncovered side vents. Since the lower roof is so close to the opening it might be less attractive to the birds but in Wisconsin we have trouble with any openings over 1” in a side wall.
There are "ball head" push pins that have 1/4" or 1/8" plastic spheres as the head. Maybe sticking the business end of a few of those into the backside of each foam panel during installation would work as a cheap, uniform, and time-effective way to space them off the zip for a drainage plane? Too bad "Spaceballs" is already taken.
Is a four inch deck screw sufficient in this application? Two inches of foam, 3/4 stock and almost 1/2 inch sheathing; that leaves about 3/4 inch penetration into the wall stud. True, four inch deck screws are a lot less expensive than 5 inch GRK screws, but I would have thought code required a minimum of one inch penetration into the stud.
Exactly. It is the reason I went with 1.5" foam. I assume they overdrive the screw a bit and got 1" of penetration into the stud. If you include the 1/2" sheathing, that is 1.5" of grip.
So crazy how much siding has changed since my last build in 88. yes. That was a long time ago. So much goes into siding now it is nuts. Looking to redo my house that was built in 48. So the siding, insulation and windows may as well not be there.
That's why at least here in Finland all exterior XPS wall products are a) grooved b) fomed from the seams with urethane (manufacturer's guideline) also XPS is non water or vapor permeable when properly sealed but it does degrade quicky from UV in direct sunlight (hence the aluminum foil). As for insulation XPS is roughly 1/2 as thick to rockwool pads for comparable insulation levels but pricing for XPS is also often doubled so it kind of evens out for costs but XPS is not fire proof which should be kept in mind on fire risk areas both inside and outside. Also should add that here we would build the wall the otherway around with XPS on the inside and zip or wind barrier mats would then be the exterior cladding or do a combination wall with rockwool between joists and thin XPS sheets for inside wall (acts as vapor barrier) and zip or wind barrier on the outside as we have never used those house wraps in Finland (and not really anywhere in Europe I think) except under roofing to divert water.
The silicone dots space the insulation enough that I noticed the gap before you explained it and wondered why it wasn’t applied flush. If the human eye can see a shadow line through a camera, from 10 ft away…it will probably be sufficient for water drainage
Shout out to Scott for spray foaming his personal attic. We're afraid of locking important structures into spray foam, because what if there's a leak or maintenance that needs to be done? But it's an irrational fear not backed by evidence. Build things right and you will never need to touch the bottom of the roof in your lifetime.
Curious Question: Scott uses 4" deck screws to secure furring strips. We have 1/2" Zip sheathing, 2" PolyIso and 3/4" furring strips. So, at best we have the weight of siding beyond the 3-1/4" lever with only 3/4" bite. Is that sufficient to hold over time? I'm not bashing, I want to learn. Thoughts? Thank you!
- re condensation control -?? an open capillary break behind the external insulation - is a path for cold air to creep in to the sheathing layer - could this be a condensation problem - or merely a minor insulation bridge ?? (shedding all the water to the exterior at the cladding and reinscreen gap obviously is the real intent). - that electrical retrofit is great, accept the changes you can make - get on with it and hope noone ever needs to re-run one of those circuits. It would be great id plumbers and electricians got to the point of maintaining the integrity of installed insulation - rather than treating everything as a barrier to their fish tape . An extension to the idea of discrete roof penetrations - to "hide" roof vents and breathers (on a simple gable / or hip roof- would be to utilise a constructed "ridge vent" - to install all inlets and outlets under the eave of a hidden "second roof" at the ridge - again easier to permanently weatherproof at the ridge
I’m really curious of any ideas or advice on how to strap or a different technique when installing Hardie shingles to exterior insulation. Any ideas? Thank you!
I’m about to replace my 30 year old siding with a similar system. I want to remove the old fiberglass insulation and replace with spray foam. Question: The spray foam sub wants to make one trip. Should I be worried about removing all of my sheathing at once instead of a section at a time? Will this cause racking or more interior damage to the drywall? Is it safe? All comments/advice welcome. Thank you.
I’m curious if he doesn’t have the felt bug screen on top and only the venting in the soffit, won’t bugs be able to enter from the top through the soffit holes? I love listening to these guys. Great content as always!!
I wish Scott could build my house. He truly seems like the type of builder that is giving his all to make these houses the absolute best that they can be within the budget. He also gives off the vibes that if something were to go wrong he would be there instantly to fix the problem without fighting the customer on it
Literally would have no doubts that things are getting done right and staying budget friendly. That would be a dream prize pack even if he could just be involved with planning of my house
Nice to see when people really have a passion for what they do. Scott deserves all the success that comes his way.
Watching him makes me really upset at how terrible the general contractor I'm working with is
I couldn't agree more and I live in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.
There are a lot of contractors that lack business acumen. Maybe show him these vids and try to help him up his game
Scott reeks of trust ❤. You get a guy like this to build your house and its money well spent 👌
Indeed!
@@buildshow Yes indeed. I just mentioned Scott's name and what he practices on exterior insulation and how he deals with penetration to the builder here on Prince Edward Island, Atlantic Canada. Details of air tight are part of the interviewing process with the builders for this air tight build planned for 2025'ish. Matt, your name was mentioned as well as Steve Baczeks and J. Lstiburek. The perfect roof and wall, window sealing and continuity of the outer envelope, rain screen, bug screen....framing details that Steve B. talkes and show in his Boston build show and what you have shown in your vids Matt. The "men" that I interview, as a female, are generally surprised by the building science I understand, as shown in my interviews with them. So, Matt, keep that Scott coming as a regular guest. He is so sincere and genuine and an honest kind of guy....nothing fake about him...Perfect, onnnn The Build Show!☺🇨🇦
He stinks of trust.
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs when are you gonna start makin’ videos of your builds?! I’d happily come and support your channel when you do. 🙏🏻
@@trevorrisley5419 Hey thanks Trevor. Very kind of you to say. ☺ 🇨🇦 🔨🪜👷♀
This show has filled the information vacuum left by what HGTV and even This Old House has become. Thank you for the content.
Glad this channel is getting credit.
Scott's last name, True, seems to be as much a statement about his striving for excellence and offering his clients the best value for money as it is a last name. Hats off to Matt and Scott for being true to their principles.
Scott True is on the fast track to becoming a legend. Love it.
love every time you get Scott on the show!
i like this guy. he's just real. trying to do the best job he can and being honest with you
I'm a tile contractor who builds mostly showers. I whole heartedly agree with Scott's philosophy about mixing manufacturers and feeling comfortable with YOUR product. I also use Kerdi on top of my mortar bed shower pans, with FloFx drains, and Hydro Ban or Hydro Barrier with Laticrete reinforcing fabric on all corners and seams. It is a super bomb proof installation and I can say that Scott has nothing to worry about here. Another consideration is that any manufacturer warranty covers THEIR product, and if a shower needs to get ripped out due to a failure, the $1000 in that manufacturers materials is the least of my concerns. Worst case, that's what liability insurance is for. Best case, make sure that never happens.
Why not use all laticrete products? They make their own membrane to cover mud base? I get the drain you chose 1st it’s the best tho laticretes not bad . And why even use a mud pan? Use laticretes preformed pans- no need to worry about blocked weep holes you get perfect even slope you save hours of work and mess and of course laticrete in every product category cheaper than Schleuter equivalent as you undoubtedly know …
@@johnwhite2576 Good points. Sometimes I'm using what's available locally. For the laticrete products, I have to drive to Austin, which I do sometimes.
@@johnwhite2576 Good questions. I've tried many combinations and systems and this is what I install every time now. Kerdi is slightly thinner and more flexible than HyrdoBan sheet membrane, it lays down nicer on the pan. I use mortar beds over foam pans because I know that no matter the site conditions, shower size and shape, drain placement, subfloor levelness etc, I can install my base that day and it comes out exactly how I want it to every time. Also, mortar bed is money in my pocket, foam pan is money in Schluter's pocket. You are correct about Laticrete being cheaper than Schulter though. I do use all Laticrete thinset.
I like the way this guy works. well thought out, willing to experiment, and not throwing money at the wall.
Scot is an absolute stud of a builder, love his practical approach but yet he’s very detailed.
Matt needs to get a film crew to follow Scott’s every move. Scott would be a True asset to the build network.
Can we get more Scott? I feel like we need to know his back story, his hobbies, his epic quests. And I feel like "Scott True" should be a rating of truth. Like 'That's not just true, that's Scott True!"
He has his own social
Scott is the best builder in my opinion. His attention to detail and thinking outside the box to bring value and durability to the homes he builds really shines through in his methods and attitude. Definitely my kind a honest builder who cares about his clients and the product he can give them at a reasonable value! Great job Scott! Thank you Matt for bringing him on your show from time to time.
Really great video - you asked Scott some great questions and he did a thorough job of provided detailed answers. I appreciate his attention to detail, without needing to use the most expensive stuff ever. A smart builder who gets 95% of the results with a much lesser budget.
Glad you enjoyed it! Scott is fantastic and I’m thankful he’s invited me to his jobs!
@@buildshow Please post Scott regularly and when both your schedules permit. He represents what the average DIY"er would really like to know and understand...and afford. Thank you Matt for helping all of us so much. 🙏🇨🇦
Scott brings up a ton of valid points. The biggest is that few people have unlimited resources. Trade-offs must be made. His discussions on the return-on-investment are well explored. MORE SCOTT please!
I would love to see a Build Show Network of builders. Like, builders who meet the spirit and standards of the Build Show in various cities.
Stott's very humble but he's a True legend in my opinion!
I am fully impressed! It's just a complete ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions. These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Scott True! I subscribe to his channel as well. Totally enjoy watching what he has applied and what he thinks about trying things. So genuine and sincere. Keep educating us....just yesterday I mentioned Scotts name and practice with exterior insulation and the drainage wrap over the Zip but under the exterior insulation....thank you so much Scott and for Matt for having Scott on again. Keep him as a regular guest please! Atlantic Canada appreciates your channel! 👍 💯 🇨🇦
Right on!
@@buildshow Yes, the build here on Prince Edward Island, zone 7, relies on your channels guests and air tight practices Matt. I cannot stress enough how instrumental your channel has been, as well as your podcasts and Steve Baczeks architectural Big Red moments. I am so grateful for all you are doing to help us. Outstanding contribution to all of us even here in the colder climates. I really appreciate when you comment about how cold climate builds need to consider different options compared to Texas or warmer climate builds. Please keep pointing out what Cold Climate builds may need to consider when you are showing a warmer climate build. You did a little bit of this pointing out in this vid. There are a lot of us who live in cold climates that are subscribers to your "warm" channel😉🙏🇨🇦
This is exactly how I wanted to build my exterior walls. I ended up just doing 2x6 walls and air sealing everything myself. When I mentioned exterior insulation to any builder around here, they looked at me like I had 2 heads. The one that entertained the idea wouldn't even estimate a price for labor.
My buddy found that out interviewing builders for his house. I think he went through a dozen. Nobody knew what ICF was, nobody knew how to do exterior insulation. Most builders are just lick and stick up a shitty house and walk away. They don't care about efficiency or best practice at all.
I've had a similar experience, except the few builders who know about and do this kind of thing are extremely expensive. Look up "Mooney" walls to break the thermal bridging.
Where abouts do you live? I live in the San Antonio area, and yes, the struggle is real here on this front. BTW, for those considering ICF, look into Helix micro rebar as a way to reduce the labor/time for working a rebar lattice into your build. I would have gone this route before the economy tanked and finances got screwey
I'm a true believer in higher performance windows 100% with the justification being comfort when standing/sitting beside the windows, and NOT anything to do with energy savings.
Scott is awesome! He keeps it simple but with quality in mind. I really enjoy your videos, they are always very informative!
Scott is such an honest guy.
Really enjoyed this video. Enjoy your walk arounds with Scott. My builder was at the Las Vegas show with his crew. He was showing me a few new things he would like to do with my build. Can’t wait… breaking ground next week!
Very cool! Best to you in your new build
I have learnt so much from all the guy’s that featured on these episodes.
OMG, another amazing home detail review with SCOTT, for the more practical everyday homeowner!
Only 1 QUESTION: why not ZIP R-6 sheathing? Is it more expensive than Zip with outside insulation?
We definitely need more shows like this...
AND we need a Matt & Steve list of builders nationally. I need one in Coastal NC.
Cheers, Eric
This is cheaper for more r value!
Scott, always look forward to your reply to the comments below. You keep perspectives grounded without all the "hype" that youtube channels can bring. Thank you for putting yourself out there! Atlantic Canada is true to Scott True and a big fan!☺🙏🇨🇦
Very nice Scott, you are a very talented man. Superior craftsmanship and looking out for your customers and not breaking the bank
We are replacing the siding on the house,,, and new windows, doors as well. I've decided to ad the 1.5 Foamular iso board with a Block It wrap then vinyl siding. Love the content,, it's helping be prepare tremendously. Mid Michigan here,,looking forward to the more comfortable house.
It's not just drainage, it's a micro moisture barrier requirement. When installing exterior insulation you can encapsulate moisture from the dew point in the wall. With EIFS, for example, you need a 3/8s air gap to accommodate any moisture. If you heat or cool the space inside you're going to have a condensation point in most cases. Ideally, there would be no fastener penetrations channeling hot or cold inside the wall unless there's a thermal break as well. In warmer, drier climates it isn't as crucial, but here in Canada, it is imperative. I love the details in the build, especially the bug screens. Keep up the good work!
I was gonna do my exterior insulation just about the same way. Great to see this being done.
Good point on having no roof penetrations. Great video 👍
The single cable per hole electrical sealing thing made me think of how it's done in industrial applications. Might be able to do on homes also with far less labor and a neater / tighter final product. Search Eaton Crouse-Hinds EYS or conduit sealing fitting. They are used to seal off hazardous environments so by nature have to be air tight for say Class I hazardous gas locations. Could have the fitting inside the house to keep it out of the elements and use sealed conduit to then penetrate out.
Video of fittings I'm talking about. ua-cam.com/video/vonC9q0dGPQ/v-deo.html
Nice work Scott- thatnks for sharing Matt!
Thanks for watching!
I just have to mention Scott.......because every other comment mentioned how top shelf he is......I didn't want to be left out.
I feel like there are so many builders who just check boxes and/or spec materials because they are the newest tech. Scott is a builder who actually considers the function of each item and whether or not the commonly-used components are overly redundant and the system as a whole can be better-engineered. He's a proper builder, rather than someone who installs homes.
I would love to see a video on building affordable housing with this method.
Scott is great!
Budget and future minded. Too often those two mix like oil and water, but not with Scott's attention to details and knowledge of what the goals are.
Thank you Scott...oh ya and Matt.
Oil and waters don't mix
Caulk dabs could be placed and used to seal the nail holes in the Zip sheathing. 2 functions in one step.
I feel like the absolute lowest cost / best result airgap solution would be for ZIP to texture the surface of their OSB 1/16" when they compress it at the factory, before they apply the air barrier material.
I agree. I live in zone 7 here in Canada and will be applying 6 inches of rigid foam on the exterior, furring strips with counter sink holes for the structural screws. I was going to do what Joe Lstiburek said to Scott, the textured tyvek drain between the sheathing and the first of 3 layers of rigid foam. If zip would texture their sheathing....Boom! Mission accomplished! 👍☺💝
Thank you both so much for showing and discussing 🎈
Scott True Builds 52 minutes ago
Good points. This is a real dilemma. A while back, I use to try to sell high performance and it was difficult for me. I'm not going to change what people are interested in. So here's what I do: For my spec homes, I have a specific formula, which does not include exterior insulation, but does include many high performance details. I can build those homes at a low enough cost to sell them at competitive prices to people that pretty much don't care about high performance. In fact, I don't even tell them until after closing. I do this because I just can't build any other way. Plus, it allows me to constantly learn, get better, and show what I'm doing to people that do care. Most of this showing is happening off line when people call our company. Ideally, I would be on UA-cam more often to show this to a larger audience. I'm getting there. Then when people reach out looking specifically for high performance, we can dial in those details as far as they want to go with it.
At this point in building science, it makes more sense to insulate the outside of the house. It is much faster, and easier install than interior walls, and not a luxury like Scott says. My Dad was an architect, designed and built one of our houses in D.C., with extra wall insulation, but even then we had pipes freeze in the wall. And we also know that in Texas, it can and does get cold. Exterior insulation makes much more sense the more you think about it, as long as it can still withstand water and wind events..
i love every vid you do with this guy. Hope to see more. Matt your' the best
I love the videos with Scott True!
I really like that last detail about a house in a neighborhood only ever being able to sell for so much.
I get why you add the air gap behind insulation for a drainage plane, in your climate. Being in a northern climate, would worry that the loss in R value of the wall assembly would defeat the purpose not to mention the potential to increase condensation potential there.
Love what you guys do Sunday I hope to do it myself
I want to see you guys build with Hebel (AUTOCLAVED AERATED CONCRETE)
I love the out of the box sort of thinking he demonstrates. It is easy to just buy the latest and greatest, but overwhelmingly people cannot afford a home that is 2x-10x more than comparable homes in the area, even if the numbers work out over 20+ years. Last I read average time of owning a home is about 4 years... I really appreciate seeing the 1 inch foam detail on the exterior since that is what I am planning on doing. I first wanted two inches but it is (here) cheaper to buy two 1 inch pieces than 1 two inch piece, and you have the added advantage of two foil barriers.
My current issue is trying to figure out how I am going to finish out windows with the unusual wall thicknesses. I've thought about recessing them so that they are flush with the interior wall, creating a shadow box effect, but I am not sold on that yet..
I like the Spacers-- bit over the nailed holes in the Zip to make it more air tight-- vapor is less danger than air
Ive seen walk in fridges with less insulation, so good homes have these different systems now.
Todays word is Outsulation
Warm winter Jacket is better than fat between the ribs:)
Love the efforts to practice building science within budget constraints. Having said that, the envelope would be more practical to be Insulated concrete forms, would be multiple steps of the build in one step and similar in cost if not cheaper.
13:53, a trick I read about for mounting a TV to an apartment's wall comes to mind. You buy some 2x4s and some drywall to create a bit of a false wall to place on top of the real wall. Just make sure that the studs in the false wall line up with the studs in the real wall for attachment purposes. Now, in the false wall, you can cut holes (behind the TV) to run wires and stuff like. Then, when it's time to move out, you can remove the false wall without any major damage to the real wall. This comes to mind, because this might be a hand way to inset speakers.
What is the cost difference between poly-iso (aftermarket) versus buying Zip sheathing with it built-in insulation? It seems like you could avoid a bunch of these details, risk, and labor.
More labor “passes” for all these materials means more opportunities for things to not be right
I wondered about this too. Zip-R would save quite a lot of labor, while sacrificing the benefit of the foil layers. Not sure about the cost difference.
Super pumped about this one, thanks for sharing!
Always been thinking about insulation from outside as well as from inside. But two 1 inch layers with end joints staggered - even better. Love the vent pipes go trough the wall on top. Because those galvanized pipes roof boots get rusty in few years, and plastic ones also can UV deteriorate.
Scott repping the @TileCoach waterproofing method in the outdoor shower, LOVE IT!!!
Solid episode. Good insight and a solid builder. Thanks Matt!
Matt, got hand it to who ever preped the thumbnail for this vid, Smart Builder photo of Scott True is well....really "smart" looking! Keep up the good work to you both from Atlantic Canada zone 7😊🇨🇦 🛠🪚🪜
*"boring bricks"* and sand bag Homes...now *THAT'S* efficiency. Build a robust sand bag build an entire Civilization really is that simple.
Outdoor shower probably has better waterproofing then any shower built in Australia
At the end of the day. We (the contractor) must stand behind our work.
I mix products all the time in order to make it bulletproof by my own standards👍
I do bathrooms remodel
I enjoyed the video! With all the talk about sustainability and reducing waste in the world of construction the one thing that I hope Scott is doing with those Arlington boxes is that if he is not using the adjustable flange in some situations that he sends it back to the manufacturer.
To create a part like that for a product takes a lot of energy, time and resources and to just throw it into a landfill where it will sit for the next 500 years because you’re not using it on one particular install is a total waste. If Scott returns it to the manufacturer they can just send it out to the next customer and prevent a perfectly good piece of construction material from becoming garbage.
Matt, do you ever ask your suppliers if they would be willing to take back parts that you don't need at that time so they can be reused by the manufacturer?
I would hire Scott in a heartbeat.
Here is a question for Matt or Scott or this community. Scott talked in the vid about Lstiburek suggesting placing the drainage wrap over the sheathing but inside of the rigid foam. I listened to Lstiburek in another vid suggest that in case water got between the sheathing and the most inside rigid foam it would have a space to drain. In doing more research there are building science people who do not include that drainage wrap over the sheathing and only over the most exposed rigid foam. We saw that Scott found even the dashes of liquid flash may not be effective to create enough of a gap. Remember, there is hydro tension to consider if the air gap is not wide enough. STeve Baczek talked about this on one of his vids. Can someone clarify, with being in zone 7 Canada, if that drainage plan is really needed? I talked with a builder here on Prince Edward Island, CAnada, where I live, and to eliminate any rain getting in between the rigid foam we were thinking of using the "brake" to bend aluminum to cap off the top. That would be the only place water could get in...maybe rain hitting it even under the eaves due to rain...and we are getting a lot of hurricanes now so wind direction is changing and more forceful. I continue to research and hope a few of you will answer. I might copy and paste this comment and add it to Matt's channel comments and Steve Baczeks as well. Cheers ☺🇨🇦 Long live our buildings👍
I hope we will get to see move of this progress and the finished house!!!
Appreciate the update gentlemen! Looking good
Try polyiso in the Midwest. Carpenter ants LOVE this stuff. They will channel it to an insulation value of R0! I have taken down polyiso panels on houses where only the aluminum foil was left. There was only dust in-between. All the way to the roof on 2-story houses. You have an obsession with foam boards, including ZIP, and it is time you pay attention to the insects that live on this planet and that obliterate this material!!! Customers be warned, you also need to pay attention to builders that don't know what they are doing.
This is absolutely true, and fire ants do it as well. Personal experience in Texas.
That's part of why I like rockwool insulation for both interior and exterior.
Rockwool is the way. Foil faced exists there too.
Using a 4in deck screw, well it's a 3/4 inch fur strip, 2 inches of foam insulation, 1/2 zip sheeting, so your going into the stud 3/4 of a inch, an then you fastner you windows an siding to the fur strips? Pretty Hardie recommends 2 inch solid penetration into structure for the installation of their product.
I'll add one thing about out-sulation penetrations and even rainscreen penetrations. When possible (for wires, etc), angle the objects down slightly so water can travel away from the interior.
Really detailed install, although I would use treated strips on top of foam. Maybe just bottom 2 ft.
Haha, I too want Scott to move to Coastal NC and build my house!
Cheers, Eric
I talked to Joe when I took his course on Renovation and the dimpled material he suggests has to do with air and moisture moving through the sheathing and providing a means for any condensation to get out of the apace between the sheathing and exterior plastic foam. The exterior insulation will not let any moisture through it so it a conservative way to take care of the unknown. Without it there is no way for any moisture to get out and the sheathing will rot.
Scott, I just clicked you site from here. Please paint your HVAC vents the color of the wall. One of those things that you can't not see once you've been in a custom market. Easy to just lay them out in the garage when the walls are getting done. Back of the tip and settings. You'll get another type of paint after a while.
Really helpful content. Ideas I would use myself.
IMO better to detach an outdoor shower from the house. Even offset 6" from the house walls lowers cost and reduces risk to damaging the house. Plus way easier for a future owner to remove. Drain can go into a gray water waste system for landscape use. A much thinner concrete slab can be used.
Amazing details and love that he mixes lower cost with the high performance. That venting area is a phenomenal idea (would likely not work with the snow in my area) but if you did monopoly framing and frame on top for the overhang as well as to vent the roofing would you in theory be able to run your vents into that area so they would all disappear completely?
LOVED this video
I love the details for your house, you are an awesome builder. At 23:15 you show the plumbing vents exiting the side wall which makes the roof lines amazingly clean. I would be concerned about cavity nesting birds like sparrows and starlings entering the uncovered side vents. Since the lower roof is so close to the opening it might be less attractive to the birds but in Wisconsin we have trouble with any openings over 1” in a side wall.
There are "ball head" push pins that have 1/4" or 1/8" plastic spheres as the head. Maybe sticking the business end of a few of those into the backside of each foam panel during installation would work as a cheap, uniform, and time-effective way to space them off the zip for a drainage plane? Too bad "Spaceballs" is already taken.
Learned my trades in Canada, use polyiso for decades
Is a four inch deck screw sufficient in this application? Two inches of foam, 3/4 stock and almost 1/2 inch sheathing; that leaves about 3/4 inch penetration into the wall stud. True, four inch deck screws are a lot less expensive than 5 inch GRK screws, but I would have thought code required a minimum of one inch penetration into the stud.
Exactly. It is the reason I went with 1.5" foam. I assume they overdrive the screw a bit and got 1" of penetration into the stud. If you include the 1/2" sheathing, that is 1.5" of grip.
So crazy how much siding has changed since my last build in 88. yes. That was a long time ago. So much goes into siding now it is nuts. Looking to redo my house that was built in 48. So the siding, insulation and windows may as well not be there.
On my house i put a 1 inch foil fac e broad horizontal/,tape than a 1/2 foil vertical/ tape did a really good job .
I love seeing you guys doing videos like this. They give so many great information
That's why at least here in Finland all exterior XPS wall products are a) grooved b) fomed from the seams with urethane (manufacturer's guideline) also XPS is non water or vapor permeable when properly sealed but it does degrade quicky from UV in direct sunlight (hence the aluminum foil). As for insulation XPS is roughly 1/2 as thick to rockwool pads for comparable insulation levels but pricing for XPS is also often doubled so it kind of evens out for costs but XPS is not fire proof which should be kept in mind on fire risk areas both inside and outside. Also should add that here we would build the wall the otherway around with XPS on the inside and zip or wind barrier mats would then be the exterior cladding or do a combination wall with rockwool between joists and thin XPS sheets for inside wall (acts as vapor barrier) and zip or wind barrier on the outside as we have never used those house wraps in Finland (and not really anywhere in Europe I think) except under roofing to divert water.
I really appreciate hearing from European people on this topic. Thank you 🙏🇨🇦
The silicone dots space the insulation enough that I noticed the gap before you explained it and wondered why it wasn’t applied flush. If the human eye can see a shadow line through a camera, from 10 ft away…it will probably be sufficient for water drainage
Shout out to Scott for spray foaming his personal attic. We're afraid of locking important structures into spray foam, because what if there's a leak or maintenance that needs to be done? But it's an irrational fear not backed by evidence. Build things right and you will never need to touch the bottom of the roof in your lifetime.
Curious Question: Scott uses 4" deck screws to secure furring strips. We have 1/2" Zip sheathing, 2" PolyIso and 3/4" furring strips. So, at best we have the weight of siding beyond the 3-1/4" lever with only 3/4" bite. Is that sufficient to hold over time? I'm not bashing, I want to learn. Thoughts? Thank you!
You have an additional 1/2” bite on the sheathing, along with a 3/4” bite on a framing stud. The sheathing has support strength in my opinion.
More North Cold weather info please!
I been cutting those box up for awhile
- re condensation control -?? an open capillary break behind the external insulation - is a path for cold air to creep in to the sheathing layer - could this be a condensation problem - or merely a minor insulation bridge ?? (shedding all the water to the exterior at the cladding and reinscreen gap obviously is the real intent).
- that electrical retrofit is great, accept the changes you can make - get on with it and hope noone ever needs to re-run one of those circuits.
It would be great id plumbers and electricians got to the point of maintaining the integrity of installed insulation - rather than treating everything as a barrier to their fish tape .
An extension to the idea of discrete roof penetrations - to "hide" roof vents and breathers (on a simple gable / or hip roof- would be to utilise a constructed "ridge vent" - to install all inlets and outlets under the eave of a hidden "second roof" at the ridge - again easier to permanently weatherproof at the ridge
I’m really curious of any ideas or advice on how to strap or a different technique when installing Hardie shingles to exterior insulation. Any ideas? Thank you!
I’m about to replace my 30 year old siding with a similar system. I want to remove the old fiberglass insulation and replace with spray foam. Question: The spray foam sub wants to make one trip. Should I be worried about removing all of my sheathing at once instead of a section at a time? Will this cause racking or more interior damage to the drywall? Is it safe? All comments/advice welcome. Thank you.
I want to be Scott when I grow up
I’m curious if he doesn’t have the felt bug screen on top and only the venting in the soffit, won’t bugs be able to enter from the top through the soffit holes?
I love listening to these guys. Great content as always!!
Live FloFx, love Hydroban! Would love to talk tile tech anytime!
8:30 i have a hunch Scott watches tile coach on here lol
When I bought the window for my shop, it was only $50 different between the 3G vs 2G but the ufactor diff was huge so I went with the 3G