As a Structural Engineer who works on high end homes, the truss header is a game changer when it comes to the argument between thermal issues and structural issues colliding.
In commercial, we've see metal stud engineered, site built trusses supporting loads for decades. Taking that to residential and wood is "why didn't I think of that?"
Ok I rehabbed a 1913 house that had these as their headers and pass throughs. The only difference are nail plates. Otherwise exact same. What am I missing?? Why did we move away and come full circle a century later?
I did a DIY wall in our home using a staggered stud, both for sound performance and to make it thick enough to envelope an existing structural beam. It was great to work with. I did the studs 12" OC for the overall wall assembly, but that gives you 24" on each side which made it real easy for someone with no prior construction experience to get nails in without a nail gun. Its great after the framing too. You can just staple wiring to the inside edge of the studs without having to drill any holes. You might be able do the same with water lines if you use Pex. You can weave in continuous insulation horizontally, just staple one end of a roll to a kingstud and pass it back and forth. It'd be hard for me to comment on sound performance of the stagger stud aspect individually as I also used single leg resilient channel on one side and mass loaded vinyl on the other, but I doubt it hurt.
Out here in seismic, California 3x4 and 3x6 studs have been used forever, but the lumber yards stoped suppling untreated 3x and so we use 4x. We often use 3 x mud plates and stringers if the engineer calls for it. That's what the 8 ¼ skilsaw is for. And even though it's a demo model get the studs even and all touch the bottom plate. You're trying to sell precision cut lumber. If things don't line up, I seriously doubt precision claims.
my concern would be keeping all the parts for the room together and not spending time searching for the right piece of wood for each location. It would take a lot of discipline by the framing crew.
My ‘55 cape we just bought has R-boxes too under each window. Except in my house, the R is a puny convection Radiator recessed so deeply that there is no insulation behind it. Good to see they’ve improved the concept in 70 years!
I built a 16 ft. truss header for my garage in my house in Houston. It will never sag, and they are much lighter to handle plus the insulation value is much greater than the solid wooden headers. This was done 15 years ago, and it has remained straight as a string.
For commercial shear wall in the San Francisco Bay Area we use 3x studs and block on the sheathing joints all the time. Nice to see it being used for residential.
The staggered 2x4 wall studs are awesome for electricians because you don't need to drill any studs to run wire from one side of the wall to the other.
It looks like most studs had only 1 nail. I imagine they did that because this thing needs to be taken down since it's just a demonstration and would be easier to take apart
There was a pretty nice gap in many of them. They'll settle down I'm sure...... I didn't see toenails so I assume the studs were nailed to the plate from below?
The 1922 extension of my dining room has a truss like that over the triple window, a 10 ft span. Fortunately, it hasn't had much weight on it, but my reno contractor put supports between the windows, two of which I sealed up.
Just an observation at around 6:24, a structural engineer friend of mine told us to header high at the double top plate and cripple down to the window opening. We never header directly above the window since framers sometimes cut the cripples short. We always put a non-structural header out of two-by material above the window and the main header is above. We have been doing it this way for over 30 years and inspectors love us. Saving a few pieces of wood is not our concern since we build in a $5 million plus range.
That has been covered and shown multiple times on this channel. How terrible would a framing crew on new construction have to be to cut cripples short? Especially on a $5 million build.
how common are walls being built at 24 inch on Center for thermal performance? I would have thought I'd see some of that in the video. thanks, loved the ideas in this video
Everything pre-cut requires absolutely perfect foundation. Can be done but isn't always the case. Even if you have to custom cut some small percentage to replace those that don't work it could still be worth it.
I'm surprised there wasn't a sample of framing that you showed on another video. That was where you had 2 2x4s on a 2x8 or 2x10. This allowed a lot of insulation with no temperature break. It was also less expensive than using 2x6 studs.
I just wish customers cared as much about the bones of the house as most of the people reading this do. It only really makes sense in the context of custom home building, where you have a client sitting across the table from you, and you can say "if you want less noise transmitted from the bedroom to the hallway, I can do staggered stud walls and double layer drywall and sealed electrical boxes, and it'll add $500 to each room cost." I don't see how you could monetize these "hidden" methods on, say, a spec house.
I wonder, like others, on the gaps at bottom plate studs. Also, I want to see staggered 2x6 on 2x8 plates. The LSL is great for build of kitchen, bath and really most interior walls. What's the cost increase for all LSL comparison? Can they make the truss header with LSL? Also that span on the floor trusses...is that 2 feet on center? I want a solid floor that can handle weight...I wonder on the flex?
I worked on a house using LSL and when it rains and there’s no roof yet… you guessed it: Everything bloats. Mushrooming action on every member. I love seeing the staggered stud, been doing that for years. Truss header… never been an area that I was concerned with in regards to losing energy in the house. Solid, long term support for generations; go solid!
Not and be certified by an engineer. I'm sure a well built site built truss could work in theory, but the use of many 8d (or 10d) nails in the end of 1-1/2" width of pine boards used MIGHT split the wood and ruin the structural integrity of the truss.
I wish Matt would acknowledge that the reason his crew could save 40% on framing time is that other people at BFS did a ton of work before the materials arrived on site. I mean, if you use modular walls, which are fully prebuilt, you can save even more time, but thats because someone else did the work. Now, if there's something about the process that BFS can follow that means they spend only (say) 20% of the time to save you 40%, that would be worth noting. But I haven't seen Matt talk about a cost/benefit analysis of ReadyFrame. Saving time by paying someone else to do a bunch of work off-site is obviously a way to save time, but does it actually save money and/or time overall?
lol the picture of Matt on the wall as part of the Graphics of the display with the camera strategically placing Matt right behind the head of the guy with Matts eyes peering over the top of his head.
I believe, for those curious, the studs and bottom plate look odd as this was built to come together and come back apart in this show room. Not because that's what you should expect.
At first I didn't understand why T-Stud had the one 2x3 oriented sideways, but putting that to the outside gets you a much better nailing platform for sheathing, plus you don't have the thermal bridging you would have with 3x lumber. Matt, what are shear values for the 2x6 and 2x8 T-Studs? Are they going to resist that sideways force? I remember Brian Iverson talking about crushing force for these, but I don't think he mentioned shear values.
Gable end wall? I don't know why builders put oversized headers in non-loadbearing walls! Even this demo. house, did similar, it would appear at 9:28 . The IRC addresses this clearly for most openings @ R602.7.4 Nonbearing walls
I've been researching SIPs. Raycore is interesting, but I'm not completely sure about the materials they use for the vapor barrier that faces the exterior.
As a framer, the last thing you want to do is improperly nail an lvl or lsl, those nails are next to impossible to get out without tearing the heads off the nails. The nails hold a lot better than wood, and I'd imagine it's true for screws
I'm more interested in water resistance for exterior wall applications. Matt's comment about it being similar to OSB (that he's called vertical mulch in the past) does not engender confidence. These studs may be treated for water resistance, but I really think this should be advertised by the supplier here.
Just my two cents: When you are able to mark every piece of lumber where to go ... Why do not prefab the complete wall segment (with insulation and holes/channels for wiring, plumbing)? On site a simple crane would lift the segments in place. Or do you really want to puzzle each piece of lumber on site from a stack of hundrets of studs? This will be prone to errors. In the end you're just doing it like the station to be built in the famous 1968 movie "Once upon a time in the west".
That marked bottom seal plate is great until you have to throw it out and use another because the lumber isn't straight, which happens all of the time. Matt's picture on the wall...lol. He gets paid to promote this,,,of course.
People who are noticing studs not connecting with the baseplate are missing the point of this video. It is a technology demonstrator, assembled in 24hr, not a custom home for resale.
Actually, I once saw that kind of gap in a commercial build. It was like the foreman was, “close enough, nail it.” Surprisingly, it passed inspection, though the inspector might have been on the take…?
Oh look. Another 15 minute ad for builders first source disguised as a build show video. I remember the gool ol days of youtube when people would just make good videos and not worry about sponsorship deals.
I'm planning on using the technique of having a framed glazing unit, but taking it to the next level. I've got a 10' x 8' 4-panel slider that I can't install from the outside 7 feet above the ground using my minimal crew - me and my kid. So what I'm planning is to just build a minimal area completely around the door rough opening, flash it laying on the ground using the Prosoco system, install the door on the flat, and then lift it into the structural wall. To get the openings to work out, the bottom plate of the structural wall underneath the door is cut out after the wall is lifted. Wish me well as I work on building my off-grid home as an amateur! My guess that the thick layers of exterior insulation will hide any flaws in my carpentry!
Yeah, I don’t know if you’re aware but fire departments are not refusing to fight fires with houses with trusses due to injury and collapse safety concerns. You’re probably gonna see a point where insurance companies will not even offer fire insurance because there is no way that a fire department is gonna be able to safely tend to a house fire
If only we can get folks to use steel framing--if done correctly it eliminates a lot of the problems you're correcting with these materials and techniques.
Steel is 500 times more conductive than wood. I don’t think we’ll be framing houses with steel studs in VT anytime soon. We need more people to use spray foam and warm the globe for that.
@@sparksmcgee6641 Although thermal bridging can be addressed I hear you--it just seemed like a lot of material to me. I'll admit I've never run direct costs against using the materials shown so I take your point--former steel guy here. . .
This is the "corporate shill" channel if ive ever seen one. Why Would someone buy a web truss for an exterior header when you can just use LVL or 8" red iron beam... Oh wait are we going to hear how sealed the house is?? lol so these new home owners can spit out even more money on more mechanical equipment because you're going to need a spendy dehumidifier running full time alongside your HVAC... but there's a lot of dumb people out there.
Except for the truss header, (game changer) none of what they are doing is anything new. We all know there is a shortage of trained and skilled labor. I think Red is a system that allows a builder to use a lot less skilled labor and increasing the quality at the same time. Their system is extremely costly so there aren't many markets where the average home buyer is willing or able to pay for it. I see this as a great system for high end custom homes, like those that recently burned in CA. I think the future in single family home building is getting away from wood and start building homes the way we build commercial buildings, Red iron, metal studs, masonry, gypsum.
Theres just a few thing “fire proof”. the stud that cuts the air in the walls, its just retardant as almost everything in the modern house. in the continuous wall if you put an incombustible insulation, its does the same thing
As a Structural Engineer who works on high end homes, the truss header is a game changer when it comes to the argument between thermal issues and structural issues colliding.
Appreciate the comment from a Structural Engineer!
In commercial, we've see metal stud engineered, site built trusses supporting loads for decades. Taking that to residential and wood is "why didn't I think of that?"
Ok I rehabbed a 1913 house that had these as their headers and pass throughs. The only difference are nail plates. Otherwise exact same. What am I missing?? Why did we move away and come full circle a century later?
As a structural engineer shouldn't the trimmer and king studs touch the bottom plate?
this is a great way to show the different ways of how the house can be framed
As a noise adverse guy, I am so glad to hear you mentioning this so often. 😁
Good to hear! (Pun intended 😜). I think quiet homes is a reasonable ask and can be pretty cost effective to pull off with forethought.
Beautiful work and love that bfs is doing these techniques as does help so very much. Also, framing a ready frame nous is pretty fun!
Cheers✌🏻
Well done BFS! Very nice framing examples... Great video and thanks for sharing. 😁👍
I did a DIY wall in our home using a staggered stud, both for sound performance and to make it thick enough to envelope an existing structural beam. It was great to work with. I did the studs 12" OC for the overall wall assembly, but that gives you 24" on each side which made it real easy for someone with no prior construction experience to get nails in without a nail gun. Its great after the framing too. You can just staple wiring to the inside edge of the studs without having to drill any holes. You might be able do the same with water lines if you use Pex. You can weave in continuous insulation horizontally, just staple one end of a roll to a kingstud and pass it back and forth. It'd be hard for me to comment on sound performance of the stagger stud aspect individually as I also used single leg resilient channel on one side and mass loaded vinyl on the other, but I doubt it hurt.
You wouldn't want a wire or waterline anywhere near where a nail or screw can get to it, plus I don't think the "weave" would pass code.
It certainly passes code. Every project they do is code compliant for the area it’s built in.
Getting ready to build. Keep’em coming!
Out here in seismic, California 3x4 and 3x6 studs have been used forever, but the lumber yards stoped suppling untreated 3x and so we use 4x. We often use 3 x mud plates and stringers if the engineer calls for it. That's what the 8 ¼ skilsaw is for.
And even though it's a demo model get the studs even and all touch the bottom plate. You're trying to sell precision cut lumber. If things don't line up, I seriously doubt precision claims.
WOW, the printing on the framing is better than the instructions that come with an Ikea piece of furniture!
my concern would be keeping all the parts for the room together and not spending time searching for the right piece of wood for each location. It would take a lot of discipline by the framing crew.
@@lancedoyle5026 First pieces stacked on top of the lumber bundle and as you work your way down you'd keep coming to the next studs needed.
My ‘55 cape we just bought has R-boxes too under each window. Except in my house, the R is a puny convection Radiator recessed so deeply that there is no insulation behind it. Good to see they’ve improved the concept in 70 years!
I built a 16 ft. truss header for my garage in my house in Houston. It will never sag, and they are much lighter to handle plus the insulation value is much greater than the solid wooden headers. This was done 15 years ago, and it has remained straight as a string.
Another amazing video thanks 🙏🏻 I’ll be doing a whole home renovation soon and get so many ideas from your channel 😊
Appreciate that. Best to you
For commercial shear wall in the San Francisco Bay Area we use 3x studs and block on the sheathing joints all the time. Nice to see it being used for residential.
Very cool way to demonstrate the floor trusses
The staggered 2x4 wall studs are awesome for electricians because you don't need to drill any studs to run wire from one side of the wall to the other.
They're awesome for carps too because it's twice the work!
Great Vid ! Gracias Amigos ! 😁
Gracias for watching!
Would love to see an episode on Raycore panels. Thank you for this video showcasing new and interesting framing technologies.
agreed. surprised they aren't more popular
None of those studs seem to be making a connection with the bottom plate.
I know 😳... As he's trying to explain how everything is matching
It looks like most studs had only 1 nail. I imagine they did that because this thing needs to be taken down since it's just a demonstration and would be easier to take apart
@@leolionz3692They should have used framing screws
There was a pretty nice gap in many of them. They'll settle down I'm sure......
I didn't see toenails so I assume the studs were nailed to the plate from below?
It's a convention display.
You're and idiot claiming you know code for temporary displays.
The 1922 extension of my dining room has a truss like that over the triple window, a 10 ft span. Fortunately, it hasn't had much weight on it, but my reno contractor put supports between the windows, two of which I sealed up.
This feels like a solution for a problem that doesn’t exist…
The salesman sure is excited about it, how dumb are these framers?
Just an observation at around 6:24, a structural engineer friend of mine told us to header high at the double top plate and cripple down to the window opening. We never header directly above the window since framers sometimes cut the cripples short. We always put a non-structural header out of two-by material above the window and the main header is above. We have been doing it this way for over 30 years and inspectors love us. Saving a few pieces of wood is not our concern since we build in a $5 million plus range.
That has been covered and shown multiple times on this channel. How terrible would a framing crew on new construction have to be to cut cripples short? Especially on a $5 million build.
Very cool. Thanks Matt/Terry.
Thanks for watching!
how common are walls being built at 24 inch on Center for thermal performance? I would have thought I'd see some of that in the video. thanks, loved the ideas in this video
Everything pre-cut requires absolutely perfect foundation. Can be done but isn't always the case. Even if you have to custom cut some small percentage to replace those that don't work it could still be worth it.
Probably better to fix your foundation issues instead of custom cutting
But I agree, built in a lab doesn’t always work in the field.
I'm surprised there wasn't a sample of framing that you showed on another video. That was where you had 2 2x4s on a 2x8 or 2x10. This allowed a lot of insulation with no temperature break. It was also less expensive than using 2x6 studs.
I just wish customers cared as much about the bones of the house as most of the people reading this do. It only really makes sense in the context of custom home building, where you have a client sitting across the table from you, and you can say "if you want less noise transmitted from the bedroom to the hallway, I can do staggered stud walls and double layer drywall and sealed electrical boxes, and it'll add $500 to each room cost." I don't see how you could monetize these "hidden" methods on, say, a spec house.
Truss headers were a pretty common detail in the 1800s in balloon frame houses. I’m sure Wade Paquin can show you a few in NE. We’ve come full circle.
And full 2 inch material. Full circle again.
Matt what the percentage add to cost for ready frame?
Love love love those staggered stud interior walls!! I wish every house used this on the interior walls! That would be so awesome!!!! 🎉
im curious about the joists cut outs for duct work? seems that might be ok if it’s just straight attic space above but not for floor strength.
Check manufacture's literature for maximum cut openings (and locations) in i-joists for floor applications, you would be surprised.
The studs are not touching the bottom plate!! What is that?
I wonder, like others, on the gaps at bottom plate studs. Also, I want to see staggered 2x6 on 2x8 plates. The LSL is great for build of kitchen, bath and really most interior walls. What's the cost increase for all LSL comparison? Can they make the truss header with LSL? Also that span on the floor trusses...is that 2 feet on center? I want a solid floor that can handle weight...I wonder on the flex?
I worked on a house using LSL and when it rains and there’s no roof yet… you guessed it:
Everything bloats. Mushrooming action on every member.
I love seeing the staggered stud, been doing that for years.
Truss header… never been an area that I was concerned with in regards to losing energy in the house. Solid, long term support for generations; go solid!
A very good video, lots of lessons learned. If you are in Utah, I would like you to give us advice for our church small extension project.
The web truss header is very interesting. Can site built trusses use the strength of the OSB sheeting instead of pressed plates?
Not and be certified by an engineer. I'm sure a well built site built truss could work in theory, but the use of many 8d (or 10d) nails in the end of 1-1/2" width of pine boards used MIGHT split the wood and ruin the structural integrity of the truss.
A true "Custom Home" builder!!!!!!!!!!!
I wish Matt would acknowledge that the reason his crew could save 40% on framing time is that other people at BFS did a ton of work before the materials arrived on site. I mean, if you use modular walls, which are fully prebuilt, you can save even more time, but thats because someone else did the work.
Now, if there's something about the process that BFS can follow that means they spend only (say) 20% of the time to save you 40%, that would be worth noting. But I haven't seen Matt talk about a cost/benefit analysis of ReadyFrame. Saving time by paying someone else to do a bunch of work off-site is obviously a way to save time, but does it actually save money and/or time overall?
he wants to save labor as an architect...
No chance it saves as much as 40%. Saving money maybe. Paying someone that is less skilled to package that up might save a little
lol the picture of Matt on the wall as part of the Graphics of the display with the camera strategically placing Matt right behind the head of the guy with Matts eyes peering over the top of his head.
😆🤣
I believe, for those curious, the studs and bottom plate look odd as this was built to come together and come back apart in this show room. Not because that's what you should expect.
At first I didn't understand why T-Stud had the one 2x3 oriented sideways, but putting that to the outside gets you a much better nailing platform for sheathing, plus you don't have the thermal bridging you would have with 3x lumber. Matt, what are shear values for the 2x6 and 2x8 T-Studs? Are they going to resist that sideways force? I remember Brian Iverson talking about crushing force for these, but I don't think he mentioned shear values.
When I was a remodeler I was always amazed the shorter 4x12 headers shrunk and weren’t holding up anything.
Gable end wall? I don't know why builders put oversized headers in non-loadbearing walls! Even this demo. house, did similar, it would appear at 9:28 . The IRC addresses this clearly for most openings @ R602.7.4 Nonbearing walls
What happens to this demonstration house after the show? I imagine it goes into landfills
Should truck it out to a lot
How much load is the gap under the trimmer stud handling?
Pre-cut holes for the ductwork that would scare me because of the first thing I think of is a weakness in that spot where it could flex
What would you use to frame your house or barndominium?
I've been researching SIPs. Raycore is interesting, but I'm not completely sure about the materials they use for the vapor barrier that faces the exterior.
I’ll never understand why people want to live in a barn
Can staggered studs be used in advanced framing
Anything can be engineered. May need LSLs or a thicker wall stud, but it can be done.
How does LVL & LSL stack up with screw & nail hold power?
Great question. I actually don’t know. Any engineers or wood manufacturers want to comment?
As a framer, the last thing you want to do is improperly nail an lvl or lsl, those nails are next to impossible to get out without tearing the heads off the nails. The nails hold a lot better than wood, and I'd imagine it's true for screws
I'm more interested in water resistance for exterior wall applications. Matt's comment about it being similar to OSB (that he's called vertical mulch in the past) does not engender confidence. These studs may be treated for water resistance, but I really think this should be advertised by the supplier here.
How the heck do you do horizontal bracing with those staggered 2x4 walls?
It’s only an interior wall strategy. For sound between rooms
no ready frame near me in annapolis maryland,,,, wish there was, im getting ready build a new 3 story
Just my two cents: When you are able to mark every piece of lumber where to go ... Why do not prefab the complete wall segment (with insulation and holes/channels for wiring, plumbing)? On site a simple crane would lift the segments in place. Or do you really want to puzzle each piece of lumber on site from a stack of hundrets of studs? This will be prone to errors.
In the end you're just doing it like the station to be built in the famous 1968 movie "Once upon a time in the west".
That marked bottom seal plate is great until you have to throw it out and use another because the lumber isn't straight, which happens all of the time. Matt's picture on the wall...lol. He gets paid to promote this,,,of course.
It's not that hard straighten a bent piece of lumber.
Truss header, box girder in the wall assembly why didnt I think of that
People who are noticing studs not connecting with the baseplate are missing the point of this video. It is a technology demonstrator, assembled in 24hr, not a custom home for resale.
not a single stud is touching the bottom plate.
Hey, it's a demo, why east material, they can dismantle this and reuse.
Demo made in 10 hours that doesn't have to support too much weight and will be knocked down in days
yeah that won’t pass inspection 😂 Its a freaking demo good lord
Actually, I once saw that kind of gap in a commercial build. It was like the foreman was, “close enough, nail it.”
Surprisingly, it passed inspection, though the inspector might have been on the take…?
@@DanielinLaTunathings that can only be possible in Texas😂
Umm, I wouldn't except 2:14 at all. the studs are all away from the bottom plate.
I mean… it’s in a booth at a show. It’s not a real house lol.
@@CMCraftsman They are showing off their product! You'd think they would want it to look perfect.
@ They are trying to sell something, why buy something that causes issues like this to arise?
Why would they show a hack job at the bottom plate?
Oh look. Another 15 minute ad for builders first source disguised as a build show video. I remember the gool ol days of youtube when people would just make good videos and not worry about sponsorship deals.
Pepperidge Farm remembers
1:24 What? It can handle the weight of the trusses with no sheathing? How about 60 lbs/sq inch snow load?
I'm planning on using the technique of having a framed glazing unit, but taking it to the next level. I've got a 10' x 8' 4-panel slider that I can't install from the outside 7 feet above the ground using my minimal crew - me and my kid. So what I'm planning is to just build a minimal area completely around the door rough opening, flash it laying on the ground using the Prosoco system, install the door on the flat, and then lift it into the structural wall. To get the openings to work out, the bottom plate of the structural wall underneath the door is cut out after the wall is lifted. Wish me well as I work on building my off-grid home as an amateur! My guess that the thick layers of exterior insulation will hide any flaws in my carpentry!
Why don't you use Ready Frame on your builds?
Have you seen the video series “The Risinger Build”? We did two videos on that Ready Frame project. Turned out fantastic
The staggered stud wall isn't to code. It needs a fire break every 10ft, that is clearly more than 10ft tall.
Matt are you getting a little grey?
A little? I’m pretty much all grey these days
Precision cut? How come none of the studs are actually sitting on the bottom plate? 1/8" gap or more...
That's the thermal gap🎉
Cool they can make a house in 10 hours, but still took 2 years to make mine
at 3:38 matt says “i framed that house” . thats laughable
he likes clean hands lol
never seen a threeeeeeeeeeee by four! lol
Any Canadian representation
If a window frame is cracked, it needs to be replaced.
Yeah, I don’t know if you’re aware but fire departments are not refusing to fight fires with houses with trusses due to injury and collapse safety concerns. You’re probably gonna see a point where insurance companies will not even offer fire insurance because there is no way that a fire department is gonna be able to safely tend to a house fire
I’ve heard this argument for the better part of two decades. I don’t believe it.
Framing for dummies, taking the skill out of the skilled trades. Same with pex and propress.
People stopped learning practical skills in school 30 years ago, and construction workers are terrible teachers, this is overdue
If you think those things make you a trade I'll never hire you.
SIPS way faster!!!
We REALLY need to get away from these flimsy stick houses construction....
2 ½ x 3 ½ is 40% more wood. Or should I say cost. For a house which will be torn down in 30 years...
Matt's water sealing preaching would have these lasting for 100+ years easily for most situations.
If only we can get folks to use steel framing--if done correctly it eliminates a lot of the problems you're correcting with these materials and techniques.
Hmm. Thermal bridging though?
Wood grows on trees.
Steel is 500 times more conductive than wood. I don’t think we’ll be framing houses with steel studs in VT anytime soon. We need more people to use spray foam and warm the globe for that.
Cost multiples more. Thermal bridging.
What things does it fix that they're addressing here?
What does it take for a shear wall with steel at 22 guage
@@sparksmcgee6641 Although thermal bridging can be addressed I hear you--it just seemed like a lot of material to me. I'll admit I've never run direct costs against using the materials shown so I take your point--former steel guy here. . .
I built and supplied 4x2 headers to the builders 40 years ago. Nothing new, you better catch up.
Try finding a framer who is the least bit interested doing anything new.
This is the "corporate shill" channel if ive ever seen one. Why Would someone buy a web truss for an exterior header when you can just use LVL or 8" red iron beam... Oh wait are we going to hear how sealed the house is?? lol so these new home owners can spit out even more money on more mechanical equipment because you're going to need a spendy dehumidifier running full time alongside your HVAC... but there's a lot of dumb people out there.
If you dont know how to gang cut rake studs then you anrenr a framer.
King studs and trimmers are not even touching the plate. Junk company.
Definitely not a fan of pre cut materials
Why does he talkout the side of his mouth
Except for the truss header, (game changer) none of what they are doing is anything new. We all know there is a shortage of trained and skilled labor. I think Red is a system that allows a builder to use a lot less skilled labor and increasing the quality at the same time. Their system is extremely costly so there aren't many markets where the average home buyer is willing or able to pay for it. I see this as a great system for high end custom homes, like those that recently burned in CA. I think the future in single family home building is getting away from wood and start building homes the way we build commercial buildings, Red iron, metal studs, masonry, gypsum.
Metal studs should be looked at I agree. Red iron? Why? We already use huge amounts of gypsum...
None of these are fire proof. 😂
Theres just a few thing “fire proof”. the stud that cuts the air in the walls, its just retardant as almost everything in the modern house. in the continuous wall if you put an incombustible insulation, its does the same thing
Correct, wood burns.
Lots of nonsense
I'm glad to see that even in a demo booth the framing package is just as poorly cut so people know what they're getting.
Never again
Pssst - king stud & Jack stud ain’t touching ground !!! Hmmmmmm….. at a show ????! How much can we believe
Good job as usual “let’s get going !”