The conditioning spray has the same oils as the cream but in an aerosol form. So it can hydrate in all of its goodness but not mess up the fibers of the rough out. You can also put regular cream on the inside and the footboard as well. I have to clean my work boots almost twice a month(I work with metal, welding cutting and lots of rubber). I take them in the bathtub with some dawn dish detergent and a nylon bristle brush, the bath tub is black by the end of it. I let them dry out to the point where their damp then out my boot trees. Then the next day I coat the entire boot inside and out including the footboard with obenaufs boot oil. Thank for the great videos.
I have the same pair which I am using with the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome Competition. The event just started last October 1, 2021 and been using such boots for the past 24 days. Nice video.
If you live in the US and your red wing boot not a factory second. You can bring them back to retail red wing store for cleaning & conditioning also Free replacement laces. When you get it back then spray some water protection and you are good to go. I do that with all my 9 pairs of Red Wing just don't have the time. There are people to see & money to be made. Good Luck!👌👍
After cleaning the suede,nubuck boots with Saphir cleaner or Angelus easy cleaner,once the boots are dry,the leather will become hard and crunchy,thats cuz of the type of the leather. So you have to use a hard brush to revive and raise the nap,and they will be good as a new.
Honestly there’s really no 🧼 no these boots, yeah you can use rubber bar and nap brush. But you really can’t get these clean, clean. Like you think. The only thing I do to my mule’s is rubber bar nap brush and water proof spray 2-3 times a year. The patina on mine are strong, so they kind of always look dirty. The more I wear the better they feel. Had me be about 4 years. Still very comfy.😁👍
You are very right. I guess my thought is to just do the best I can to make them last. The grit and scuffs are what makes them “mine.”. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
I think they could of came out cleaner If you used less water and more solution. Also to avoid stains that can't come off, always treat any Nubuck, Suede, or Ruff out leather before you even put them on for the first time. At least two coats Minimum when they are new. Most cobblers will tell you how much cleaner they will be, and less stains on this type of leather if you would of treated them with 2-3 coats from day one. Not sure if you did? Or didn't?
@@hell0all that does make sense but i believe that doing circular gets the most nap out instead of just going in one direction thats what we say in my shop at least then u can just rub your hand over it if u want it all to be going the same direction, honestly probably doesnt make much of a difference though. i just say a good rule of thumb is to do anything in a circlular motion when working with boots unless its the aerosols then what u did there is perfect. just tips from a guy who works in a shoe repair shop :) also we dont even use brushes to get the nap up we just use the erasers
great vid buddy, have a couple of RW boots but no Muleskinner ones...might have to pick up a pair//troutbumandsam ps really enjoyed the range test video
any thoughts on how to darken a brand new pair of hawthorne muleskinners? I just got a pair of the weekend chukka's but they are too light. Mink oil? RedWing boot oil? thanks
@@hell0all Thank you. I won't get a chance to wear them often so would prefer to accelerate things. After doing more reading I'll give the boot oil a shot as it doesn't contain silicone like the Mink oil does. I don't really need the waterproofing of the silicone
Love the channel and my Iron Rangers. I’ve seen recommendations for shoe trees and wether you need them or not. Shoe trees no, BOOT TREES YES, the boot trees have a 6” ankle as well that we’ll help with shaping and extracting the sweat from the leather. Cedar boot/shoe trees are primarily needed to extract out the sweat that has been absorbed by the leather as you’ve worn them. The sweat salt really breaks down the leather so getting boot trees in for the night after you’ve worn your boots is very important. For IR boots, they also help with not having the toes curl up to look like clown boots. I get my boot trees from Woodlore, pricy, yes, but they’ll last forever and triple the life of your boots. Also, if you want to expand your Redwing collection, I’d check out Sierra, I’ve bought 3 pair of IRs from there for $249 each, yep, they’re factory seconds but I’ve yet to find the defect in any of them. I recently got the Muleskinners and they’re being shipped now. Anyway, you really need boot trees, ESPECIALLY if you wear them frequently. Again, love the channel and updates.
Boot trees are not important and are basically just an aesthetic difference from shoe trees. They’re also significantly more expensive. As long as you have cedar trees in your shoes/boots it does the job of moisture wicking and keeping the shape of the boot.
Saphir is the best, and I use kiwi regularly, but it's said they're more expensive but what 20 dollars instead of 15 compared to other brands. Spend the extra 5 dollars. I spent 200 dollars on a pair of shoes or 350 on these IRs, and im gonna skimp on five bucks for a better product that will keep my shoes going for longer? Nah
Oh boy, no English.... As if, in this modern day & age, there is no internet, no google. With a few simple clicks you're in a whole new universe, the "Saphire website", and guess what... Tutorials! Explanations! Products! In English, no less!!!! Good job on the shoes mate, but the "helplessness" after encountering non-english was a bit pathetic.
I think those rough out Iron Rangers are one of the best models for a great patina.
Agreed, I’m really happy with how these are looking.
The conditioning spray has the same oils as the cream but in an aerosol form. So it can hydrate in all of its goodness but not mess up the fibers of the rough out. You can also put regular cream on the inside and the footboard as well.
I have to clean my work boots almost twice a month(I work with metal, welding cutting and lots of rubber). I take them in the bathtub with some dawn dish detergent and a nylon bristle brush, the bath tub is black by the end of it. I let them dry out to the point where their damp then out my boot trees. Then the next day I coat the entire boot inside and out including the footboard with obenaufs boot oil.
Thank for the great videos.
Thanks. Yea good call on the footboard. Easy to forget about that.
Nice job!( And a great result) It's amazing how these products from Saphir conditions without changing the colour of suede and roughouts.
Thanks for the suggestion. Yea, virtually no color change!
I have the same pair which I am using with the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome Competition. The event just started last October 1, 2021 and been using such boots for the past 24 days. Nice video.
Looks like a neat competition. Good luck.
If you live in the US and your red wing boot not a factory second. You can bring them back to retail red wing store for cleaning & conditioning also Free replacement laces. When you get it back then spray some water protection and you are good to go. I do that with all my 9 pairs of Red Wing just don't have the time. There are people to see & money to be made. Good Luck!👌👍
Yes! Awesome. Thanks.
Thank for all the tips you should add links for the products
After cleaning the suede,nubuck boots with Saphir cleaner or Angelus easy cleaner,once the boots are dry,the leather will become hard and crunchy,thats cuz of the type of the leather. So you have to use a hard brush to revive and raise the nap,and they will be good as a new.
Great info, thanks!
I suggest you must use shoe tree while cleaning leather shoes to maintain its shape
I agree 100%. I need to get a pair for sure.
Your boots look great. A little TLC on those boots and it lasts for a long time .
Thanks! I’m excited to see how far they can go. Thanks for watching.
Honestly there’s really no 🧼 no these boots, yeah you can use rubber bar and nap brush. But you really can’t get these clean, clean. Like you think. The only thing I do to my mule’s is rubber bar nap brush and water proof spray 2-3 times a year. The patina on mine are strong, so they kind of always look dirty. The more I wear the better they feel. Had me be about 4 years. Still very comfy.😁👍
You are very right. I guess my thought is to just do the best I can to make them last. The grit and scuffs are what makes them “mine.”. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
I think they could of came out cleaner If you used less water and more solution.
Also to avoid stains that can't come off, always treat any Nubuck, Suede, or Ruff out leather before you even put them on for the first time. At least two coats Minimum when they are new.
Most cobblers will tell you how much cleaner they will be, and less stains on this type of leather if you would of treated them with 2-3 coats from day one.
Not sure if you did? Or didn't?
@@ELEVOPR I agree, More cleaner next time.for sure.
Challenge accepted.
I like the untreated with a brush out here and there.
Just a tip when brushing always use circular motions :)
I though it was in a single direction to keep the nap consistent
@@hell0all that does make sense but i believe that doing circular gets the most nap out instead of just going in one direction thats what we say in my shop at least then u can just rub your hand over it if u want it all to be going the same direction, honestly probably doesnt make much of a difference though. i just say a good rule of thumb is to do anything in a circlular motion when working with boots unless its the aerosols then what u did there is perfect. just tips from a guy who works in a shoe repair shop :) also we dont even use brushes to get the nap up we just use the erasers
great vid buddy, have a couple of RW boots but no Muleskinner ones...might have to pick up a pair//troutbumandsam ps really enjoyed the range test video
Thanks very much!
Great video
Thanks!
Why do people use such a small brush to clean with? That is for the welt area. Use a bigger brush and really scrub them, they will look far better!
any thoughts on how to darken a brand new pair of hawthorne muleskinners? I just got a pair of the weekend chukka's but they are too light. Mink oil? RedWing boot oil? thanks
Yep i’d say either would do it. They will darken alot with time but I understand you wanting to quicken the process.
@@hell0all Thank you. I won't get a chance to wear them often so would prefer to accelerate things. After doing more reading I'll give the boot oil a shot as it doesn't contain silicone like the Mink oil does. I don't really need the waterproofing of the silicone
Which model number are these Iron Rangers? 8083, Muleskinner?
Yep, Hawthorne muleskinner.
Love the channel and my Iron Rangers. I’ve seen recommendations for shoe trees and wether you need them or not. Shoe trees no, BOOT TREES YES, the boot trees have a 6” ankle as well that we’ll help with shaping and extracting the sweat from the leather. Cedar boot/shoe trees are primarily needed to extract out the sweat that has been absorbed by the leather as you’ve worn them. The sweat salt really breaks down the leather so getting boot trees in for the night after you’ve worn your boots is very important. For IR boots, they also help with not having the toes curl up to look like clown boots. I get my boot trees from Woodlore, pricy, yes, but they’ll last forever and triple the life of your boots. Also, if you want to expand your Redwing collection, I’d check out Sierra, I’ve bought 3 pair of IRs from there for $249 each, yep, they’re factory seconds but I’ve yet to find the defect in any of them. I recently got the Muleskinners and they’re being shipped now. Anyway, you really need boot trees, ESPECIALLY if you wear them frequently. Again, love the channel and updates.
Boot trees are not important and are basically just an aesthetic difference from shoe trees. They’re also significantly more expensive. As long as you have cedar trees in your shoes/boots it does the job of moisture wicking and keeping the shape of the boot.
Saphir is the best, and I use kiwi regularly, but it's said they're more expensive but what 20 dollars instead of 15 compared to other brands. Spend the extra 5 dollars. I spent 200 dollars on a pair of shoes or 350 on these IRs, and im gonna skimp on five bucks for a better product that will keep my shoes going for longer? Nah
its russian text, not french ;)
Oh boy, no English....
As if, in this modern day & age, there is no internet, no google.
With a few simple clicks you're in a whole new universe, the "Saphire website", and guess what...
Tutorials! Explanations! Products! In English, no less!!!!
Good job on the shoes mate, but the "helplessness" after encountering non-english was a bit pathetic.
Helplessness? Sorry to offend you so greatly Hans.