Molding and Casting Terrain for DnD & Wargaming
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- This week im building a heap of terrain elements for future builds, but taking it to the next level by Pouring Silicone Molds, and casting resin duplicates so i can have as many doors and windows and a crafter could ever dream of!
Seb Makes Stuff Socials - Come Say hi and share your work
linktr.ee/seb....
contact details
film.imakestuff@gmail.com
Have you tried cold casting powder or universal tinting paste with the polyurethane resin? If you're batching out pieces it could save time by cutting a few paint layers.
i haven't, but it is definitely something on my list of things i want to try. i would love to play around with the powders for coloring silicone aswell. maybe try my hand at a few costume pieces
Very cool 🔥🔥🔥
Cheers 😁
While awesomely done I can't help but feel the necessity behind learning this process is because of a certain unnamed DM who likes to drop big build ideas at very short notice... 🤣🤣
Haha it may or may not have something to do with it. We also are in talks of making tile sets so this was good practice
Awesome video ❤
Thankyou kindly 😊
Can’t wait to see the hobbit builds! 😍
Was fun to make one with you! 🫶🏻
Can't wait to finish them and have you feature in another video 😊😊😊
Excited for more halfling/hobbit builds!!
The next 2 videos should make you very happy then 😁
Did you take the paper backing off the foamboard first? I didn't see you do it but it looks like you did. Unless your foamboard doesn't have paper backing?
How did you account for levelling? I've used acrylic resin from a certain Spanish manufacturer, let's call them Verdant Things Planet, and I've found that levelling your workspace is incredibly important for those pours.
At any rate, it is always good to see more sebspiration.
I peeled all the paper off the foam board first for the carving. But just left it on for the molds. I wish I could find foam board without the paper. Would save me such a headache.
As for leveling I have another desk off to the side of my workspace where I usually let things like moulds and casts set that I know is level. Some of the stuff in video is a bit wonky because of the level of the fold out tables haha. Probably something worth bringing up next time I talk casting
Great work someday ill be brave enough to try this. Is there a good way to remove bubbles that is the high pressure thing? Do you have links to the stuff you used?
Yer for the best removal of bubbles you can put the mixes into a vacuum chamber before you pour and then a pressure pot while they set. But I don't have either of those. I just try my best to avoid bubbles haha. I would live to get a vaccume chamber tho as I want to do more casting in the future and would live to try my hand at dice. And my friends at The Ravensridge Emporium say that the vaccine chamber is the where they get most of their results for removing bubbles. But as a beginner in this space I haven't justified the purchase yet
@@SebMakesStuff I also don't have the funds for one of those fancy machines I know you can use a torch to get rid of bubbles in resin but not sure with your molding stuff.
The spray aka release agent.
What do you use?
If you don't mind using a push mold I use this Hinodewashi Oyumaru monochromatic
It's reusable
I have wanted to try that stuff out. The reusable factor makes it super handy. In this case I wanted to keep the molds long term. But the oyemaru seems to have a lot of extra capatlbilities for certain use cases
@@SebMakesStuff I love it Im making a nurgle army and making push molds off of mc farland toys etc and piecing it together
ill definitely have to get my hands on some and have a play with it, i can already think of some great uses
What silicone are you using? Looks like a nice quantity per bottle.
Silicreate
Silicrete. It's just a basic kit I get off Amazon. It's always done well for me. Just gotta make sure you get those measurements right
Awesome, thanks guys.
I do like Barnes Pinkasyl myself but it is more expensive. Been years since I casted like this but will need to restart soon as I should be able to see stuff properly soon ....