Yet another seemingly quite laid back but actually finely tuned and accomplished demonstration of what can only be described as "High Art" Thank you Mr Ox.
I like to see guys show mistakes and analyze them such as Tom did, even super experienced guys are still human at the end of the day. It was funny because I had that nervous cringe come over me immediately when I saw that setup, only because I've pretty much done that in the past and it did not end as well as it did for Tom! Those shank drills can be super grabby. Great build series by the way Tom, I've pondered this for years working in mold making it will be awesome to see someone actually do it!
Great video, I liked your style of describing each operation. Those bozo moments happen to all of us at a time when we least expect it. Job well done. Thanks, I get up around 4:30 every morning anxious to see what's up on U-tube. Thanks again for the informative entertainment.
You started out teaching a lesson on machining but ended up learning a lesson on physics; still saved the part. That's what separates a professional.from an amateur. THUMBS UP Mr. Wizard.
The style, the atmosphere and the contemplaemind me of my times at the physics lab where I worked a couple of years doing nuclear physics. There was a gentleman in the workshop cunning, smart, and motivated and Tom very much reminds me of him. It is always a cozy at home feeling visiting Tom's channel. Alle his detail knowledge, practical experience and wide encyclopedic background in mechanics and beyond is just awesome.
The entire way through the video, as time was tick, tick, ticking down I was getting more and more excited to see the arrival.... I was certain when you started talking to yourself, " what do you think of that Mr. Wizard" that it wasn't far off. Then, suddenly, all your hard work in teaching us (me) paid off, I could see it before it actually happened... Not sure I had an educated reason but I saw it plain as day. Then lift off happened and I was glad I saw it and that the part was saved! Great video with some cool tricks too. Thanks.
Tom, Thanks for leaving the Mr Bozo moment in the video. It just shows that for all our experience, planning and what all, stuff happens. Experience helps but even the best of us have "one of those days." It's all to easy to edit that out and make yourself look great. It's more instructive when you don't. And failure analysis is an important skill to have.
Nice work as always Tom. Here's a quick top for your porta band saw. You can plug in a cheap foot switch. It ends up being easier and safer. Keep up the great videos I love them all.
Great work Tom! Excited to see the completely finished Comparator. I am not a huge fan of Mr Bozo myself. But when he visits my little hobby corner without damaging something I am happy :D
I had to watch it in slo-mo just to see if the vise was tight, and it was! Not that I have ever forgotten to retighten the vise......well maybe less than a dozen anyways. I wonder if the vise now has an apprentice mark or it just hit the stop? That is way better than coffee to make you feel alive. Great video, now that is now on my todo list, thank you very much. Every time I watch one of your videos I see just how much I don't have.....So I just got one up one of those Danly steel guide pins delivered from ebay, now the fun begins!
I'm curious what brand of annular cutter you used starting at 11:18....I used to work for a company in Swartz Creek, MI called Hougen Mfg. and I produced too many thousands of those! Their brand name for those cutters was called "Rotabroach". Great video!
Drilling through a concave surface is often troublesome for me too. I've had instances where the work pulled away and out of the fixture, fractured the drill bit, and sent the part flying. It's no fun. Great work as always. Tom.
MrShobar if you have an end mill, the more flutes the better, you might find it safer to drill with it once you have a pilot hole of a suitable size. .
I hadn't seen anyone sweep for position on the outside of a part before, learned something new. Wonder how maddening that process would be with a tenths indicator...
Mr. Bozo is a man who has seen the world! He also visits my workshop in Hamburg, Germany form time to time... :-)))Could you explain for me as a non nativ speaker, for what the synonym BOZO stands and where it comes from?PS: Keep on youtubing!!!!
Joel Shields 3 feet V 4 feet, With 3 feet you could grind one foot to adjust, with 4 feet if you grind one foot the tool would rock about the axis at 90deg to the adjustment, what do you think ??
Darn it, got PT 1-3 in this morning, and have to come back for late to late for PT 4 :(> Hate when that happens (@@)! This was one tool I got attempt to make for our shop, Great tuning & tool Tom,,and the lay out time for the base feet was even fun to watch, even though the mill could do it faster,,hate it when the light bulb comes on,,,hehe!
Having used untold thousands of 316 SS nuts and bolts over 4 decades, I've had plenty, fresh out of the box, weld themselves together before they have even got clamping tension. In critical apps I use 304 nuts and or antiseize. Bronze or Monel nuts are better. Just imagine explaining to a rich yacht owner that the keel of his flash racing yacht has to come off.. I've had to (carefully) cut off a nut by sections and hand file, linnish and polish the keel bolt threads in situ (1 - 2 1/2 inch diameter)..
If removing material caused a loss of clamping force would that mean the part is slightly deforming and the when you remove from the clamp the hole isn't true? Or it's so minimal not to matter?
Watching Tom apply the self-adhesive aluminium to the chuck jaws as soft pads gave me an idea. That aluminium looked fairly thick, but I wonder whether the thinner self-adhesive aluminium tape could be put to use as a lapping surface on a surface plate, just like the aluminium kitchen foil that Tom demonstrated in Monday Night Meatloaf 116 Part 1. The advantage would be that the aluminium in the tape is a little sturdier than kitchen foil and that it is self-adhesive. The disadvantage might be that the overall thickness of the tape may vary due to variation in the adhesive thickness and consequently it may not faithfully reproduce the flatness of the surface plate. I expect that the aluminium foil itself would be accurately uniform in thickness. Aluminium tape seems to be readily available in widths up to 4” and typically with a foil thickness of about 0.016” (40 um). Copper foil tape of about the same thickness is also widely available. (Apparently, amongst other applications, it is used to shield electric guitars from EMI and as snail barriers!!!) Has anyone tried these self-adhesive tapes for lapping on a surface plate? Tom? Robin Renzetti?
Interesting,have had some work pieces ride the bit but not since I've used slightly smaller V blocks to hold cylindrical pieces leaving enough exposed for the drilling something my dad taught me
Great video Tom... nice work! Can you make a video on hardware compatibility in dissimilar metals? I think the viewers (including me) would find it valuable. I am running quite a bit of grade 5 6Al4V in one of my superbikes with no issues... yet. Thanks, Doug
Mr bozo visited my engineering class as well. Turned the spindle on in reverse by accident and chipped an insert on the face mill I had been using...in my defence, That was my second time using that machine, and the switch is wired so that you turn it in the opposite direction of the spindle rotation...very counterintuitive
Hi Tom, what are your thoughts on using 17-4 for making precision v blocks and or angle plates? I have enough to make what I want, didn't want to waste my time if it's not a good choice. Thank you again!
Hi Tom, great video as always! question - did you lap the "head" of the snug to get rid of the nub left over from the facing op in the lathe before clamping in the mill vise? I was thinking that maybe the nub (non flat) against the fixed jaw was causing the snug to not be level to the Y axis of the mill. In fact I thought that was where you were going to expose mr. Bozo.
I recently turned some stainless of unknown variety. It was slightly magnetic and formed a chip like that 17-4 produced, though I was using hss. Do you know the reason the chip wasn't breaking? I was turning the od of disks using a collet, so the part wasn't too far in the collet and I wasn't taking high DOC's, so I thought my chip wasn't breaking for that reason. But after seeing you turn the snug, it seems more like the material property. I really have to find the time to make a indicator depth gauge, its been on my list for a while. -Pat
So: how did you get that part back in the vise with the partial hole parallel to the mill spindle? I've only done it with real finicky work with an indicator in the spindle running in the hole and that's a real PITA with a rough drilled home. I'mhoping that you have some trick that makes it easier.
Russ Kepler I was wondering that as well. Maybe screw it back onto the drill, lower it down between the jaws of the vise, and clamp it down again? I'm thinking that, depending on how much material was left for the boring operation, it might not have needed to be _perfectly_ aligned anyway.
If I had a gage pin that fit the hole and also fit an available collet, I'd put the gage pin in the collet and then lower the pin into the hole in the part, then clamp it back in the vise. Then I suppose you could indicate it with a dial test indicator or coax. Then again I'm no expert.
Hi Tom, I wish you showed how you recovered. Usually you get screwed if you take the part out of the jaws before you're done. I'm guessing you indicated on the drilled hole and knocked it around until the hole was vertical? Did you start over with a new piece?
What are these neat adjustable shims called? Where can I get these? I've looked all over the place on the web, couldn't find them. Maybe I'm not using the right search terms. Great video, I always learn something.
I was a welder for a machine shop and the older machinist would tram his vise and quill with indicators. When he would drill pipes and cut key ways he would put an end mill smaller that he needed and would touch off and move the dials and change tools and next thing you know it was done and perfect fit. I was too busy burning rods to learn anything.
If you sweep an end mill across the top (and step it down) at some point the mark it makes will be the same width as the end mill. Just visually line the mark with the end mill and you are very close to dead center.
Who says you have to be lucky OR good? Both is better. :) nice save on that break out... I wouldn't have called that either, as thick as the little thing is I wouldn't have thought it would deflect in the vice like that. One of those things that only makes sense after you see it.
Four feet for perpendicularity, versus three: have you ever tried to make a Christmas tree plumb in a tree stand with three screws? If so, you understand the issue! Too much interaction between the adjustments.
Ahh the old helicopter, its one of the oldest tricks in the book! Next time you do a job like that go ahead and screw the nut on the end as it will protect the threads and it gives you a bigger lever arm so it won't be as easy to twist out of the vise. :-)
Take a closer look, in this case it didn't twist out of the vise at all. Once it broke through it pulled the part upwards. It didn't twist at all until it was lifted clear of the vise. There wasn't enough clamping pressure once it broke through to hold it in place against the uplift pressure of the drill.
Great demonstration. :-) It always makes me cringe a little, when the drill bit exits unevenly, especially on tough materials. Do you have any magic tricks to make it easier? Because I could really use it. :-)
This is going to be one awesome and BEEFY squareness comparator! Great vid as always. Oh yeah, I was curious if there was any particular reason you went with the liquid love rather than the misty mist. Granted I've learned most of what know from you, but I've always used coolant for SS, my thinking was coolant would help to mitigate it work hardening. Is 17-4 better in this respect? I have worked with 17-4PH before and remember thinking it finished well, but how the in hell do I break this chip??? The answer of course was feed it like a it's that's been fasting for a month of Good Fridays. lol Thx Tom
I think he said it was already at h900 hardness, which I believe is as hard as that material gets. If anything, a cutting related heat-affected-zone could be softer?
You may very well be right. I took that to mean its as hard as it comes. I've never heard of a metal coming as hard as gets because it'd be too brittle, but I don't know much about precipitation hardened steels. I've just alway thought it's better to run coolant stainless for both material and cutter, but Tom knows way more than me and it might have been as simple as he knew oil would be fine and didn't want to "make a mess" with coolant sprayin' everywhere as he says.
In slow mo it looks like you yanked it straight up and out instead of twisting it free. Presumably the drill flutes stopped cutting, caught the last tit of metal and they then acted like a thread in a jack and just dragged it straight up and out guided by the jaws.
I just need to know why when Mr. Bozo visits my shop, there is usually fire, blood, swearing and things flying? Hmmmm, I know, YOU aren't doing it right!!! lol ;)
To me, You are Mr Accurate. The centerpunch was a bozo move tho. Finding center with a centerpoint on the dot must be more accurate than the blind impression the centerpunch left. Just trying to learn here.
What ho young Tom, thought you might like to know I have posted some videos, at last, some of which even you might find interesting, now back to watching yours. ATB c
Yet another seemingly quite laid back but actually finely tuned and accomplished demonstration of what can only be described as "High Art"
Thank you Mr Ox.
I like to see guys show mistakes and analyze them such as Tom did, even super experienced guys are still human at the end of the day. It was funny because I had that nervous cringe come over me immediately when I saw that setup, only because I've pretty much done that in the past and it did not end as well as it did for Tom! Those shank drills can be super grabby. Great build series by the way Tom, I've pondered this for years working in mold making it will be awesome to see someone actually do it!
Great video, I liked your style of describing each operation. Those bozo moments happen to all of us at a time when we least expect it. Job well done. Thanks, I get up around 4:30 every morning anxious to see what's up on U-tube. Thanks again for the informative entertainment.
You started out teaching a lesson on machining but ended up learning a lesson on physics; still saved the part. That's what separates a professional.from an amateur. THUMBS UP Mr. Wizard.
The style, the atmosphere and the contemplaemind me of my times at the physics lab where I worked a couple of years doing nuclear physics. There was a gentleman in the workshop cunning, smart, and motivated and Tom very much reminds me of him. It is always a cozy at home feeling visiting Tom's channel. Alle his detail knowledge, practical experience and wide encyclopedic background in mechanics and beyond is just awesome.
The entire way through the video, as time was tick, tick, ticking down I was getting more and more excited to see the arrival.... I was certain when you started talking to yourself, " what do you think of that Mr. Wizard" that it wasn't far off. Then, suddenly, all your hard work in teaching us (me) paid off, I could see it before it actually happened... Not sure I had an educated reason but I saw it plain as day. Then lift off happened and I was glad I saw it and that the part was saved! Great video with some cool tricks too. Thanks.
Tom,
Thanks for leaving the Mr Bozo moment in the video.
It just shows that for all our experience, planning and what all, stuff happens. Experience helps but even the best of us have "one of those days."
It's all to easy to edit that out and make yourself look great. It's more instructive when you don't.
And failure analysis is an important skill to have.
Nothing but beautiful work, Tom.
No harm no foul. Thanks for the video, enjoying the series so far.
Nice work as always Tom. Here's a quick top for your porta band saw. You can plug in a cheap foot switch. It ends up being easier and safer. Keep up the great videos I love them all.
Great work Tom! Excited to see the completely finished Comparator. I am not a huge fan of Mr Bozo myself. But when he visits my little hobby corner without damaging something I am happy :D
Nice work Tom, this is going to be a great tool and a great series!
ATB, Robin
Thanks as always Tom. Mr. Bozo visits me more often than he does you, but he always teaches me more than a job with no hiccups does.
enjoyed Tom, with a foot switch on the porta band...favorite tool.....MISS YOU..atb
Its quite interesting seeing the finished part and then the making off. Makes me think a lot more about how to do it along the way.
I had to watch it in slo-mo just to see if the vise was tight, and it was! Not that I have ever forgotten to retighten the vise......well maybe less than a dozen anyways. I wonder if the vise now has an apprentice mark or it just hit the stop? That is way better than coffee to make you feel alive. Great video, now that is now on my todo list, thank you very much. Every time I watch one of your videos I see just how much I don't have.....So I just got one up one of those Danly steel guide pins delivered from ebay, now the fun begins!
Nice job Tom. Looks like no harm no foul on the spinning part excellent.
I'm curious what brand of annular cutter you used starting at 11:18....I used to work for a company in Swartz Creek, MI called Hougen Mfg. and I produced too many thousands of those! Their brand name for those cutters was called "Rotabroach".
Great video!
Very nice! Glad to see that Mr. Bozo didn't turn your project soft, brown & smelly. I am anxiously awaiting the next episode.
Love the work and the series. You always teach me something. Love your work.
Ha ha. South Florida huh? We’ll have to keep an eye out for him at Mr Abombs shop. Great stuff Sir. 👍🏼👍🏼
No, Adam is about as far north as you can get in Florida, but I'll be looking for him.
Don't let him come up the east coast.
Drilling through a concave surface is often troublesome for me too. I've had instances where the work pulled away and out of the fixture, fractured the drill bit, and sent the part flying. It's no fun. Great work as always. Tom.
MrShobar if you have an end mill, the more flutes the better, you might find it safer to drill with it once you have a pilot hole of a suitable size. .
Looks like really nice material to work with. I like your lathe, wish I saw it in action more often. Nice lookin part :)
hats of to you tom you could have edited that out but you showed it warts and all .another great project . :)
I hadn't seen anyone sweep for position on the outside of a part before, learned something new. Wonder how maddening that process would be with a tenths indicator...
Mr. Bozo is a man who has seen the world! He also visits my workshop in Hamburg, Germany form time to time... :-)))Could you explain for me as a non nativ speaker, for what the synonym BOZO stands and where it comes from?PS: Keep on youtubing!!!!
Joel Shields
3 feet V 4 feet, With 3 feet you could grind one foot to adjust, with 4 feet if you grind one foot the tool would rock
about the axis at 90deg to the adjustment, what do you think ??
I am glad to see that Mr. Bozo visits the better channels also. Maybe you should have had it running the other way in the vise.
How did you re-indicate the part so that the hole was lined back up where it needed to be?
I notice a little stiction. Will it be a problem in use? Will it get better as it wears in?
Tom,
I noticed you made your own boring head. That would be a great video series if you haven’t already done it.
17-4 machines great. Commonly used for pump shafts and valve stems
At 10:30, what kind of file are you using?
What kind of file were you using on those sides (10:12), Tom?
Darn it, got PT 1-3 in this morning, and have to come back for late to late for PT 4 :(> Hate when that happens (@@)! This was one tool I got attempt to make for our shop, Great tuning & tool Tom,,and the lay out time for the base feet was even fun to watch, even though the mill could do it faster,,hate it when the light bulb comes on,,,hehe!
So whats the issue with stainless nuts on stainless rods? Novice asking
Pant1KR I'd say galling would be an issue with both the nut and rod being stainless.
Is it OK to center drill on a round surface if it’s dead center? I thought the accepted practice is to mill a flat first?
What is the bad stuff that stainless nuts do on stainless fasteners?
Galling
Doesn't that take a while to happen?
xnoitulos sometimes not. If you machine them pretty close they tend Do Do it just by lightly fastening it sometimes..
Having used untold thousands of 316 SS nuts and bolts over 4 decades, I've had plenty, fresh out of the box, weld themselves together before they have even got clamping tension. In critical apps I use 304 nuts and or antiseize. Bronze or Monel nuts are better. Just imagine explaining to a rich yacht owner that the keel of his flash racing yacht has to come off..
I've had to (carefully) cut off a nut by sections and hand file, linnish and polish the keel bolt threads in situ (1 - 2 1/2 inch diameter)..
I like Mr. Bozo’s cameo appearances. :)
Im glad he is in California right now. :)
If removing material caused a loss of clamping force would that mean the part is slightly deforming and the when you remove from the clamp the hole isn't true? Or it's so minimal not to matter?
Watching Tom apply the self-adhesive aluminium to the chuck jaws as soft pads gave me an idea. That aluminium looked fairly thick, but I wonder whether the thinner self-adhesive aluminium tape could be put to use as a lapping surface on a surface plate, just like the aluminium kitchen foil that Tom demonstrated in Monday Night Meatloaf 116 Part 1. The advantage would be that the aluminium in the tape is a little sturdier than kitchen foil and that it is self-adhesive. The disadvantage might be that the overall thickness of the tape may vary due to variation in the adhesive thickness and consequently it may not faithfully reproduce the flatness of the surface plate. I expect that the aluminium foil itself would be accurately uniform in thickness.
Aluminium tape seems to be readily available in widths up to 4” and typically with a foil thickness of about 0.016” (40 um). Copper foil tape of about the same thickness is also widely available. (Apparently, amongst other applications, it is used to shield electric guitars from EMI and as snail barriers!!!) Has anyone tried these self-adhesive tapes for lapping on a surface plate? Tom? Robin Renzetti?
Interesting,have had some work pieces ride the bit but not since I've used slightly smaller V blocks to hold cylindrical pieces leaving enough exposed for the drilling something my dad taught me
Great video Tom... nice work! Can you make a video on hardware compatibility in dissimilar metals? I think the viewers (including me) would find it valuable. I am running quite a bit of grade 5 6Al4V in one of my superbikes with no issues... yet. Thanks, Doug
Mr bozo visited my engineering class as well. Turned the spindle on in reverse by accident and chipped an insert on the face mill I had been using...in my defence, That was my second time using that machine, and the switch is wired so that you turn it in the opposite direction of the spindle rotation...very counterintuitive
@Tom
What kind of file were you using when you dressed the edges of that bracket.
Hi Tom, what are your thoughts on using 17-4 for making precision v blocks and or angle plates? I have enough to make what I want, didn't want to waste my time if it's not a good choice. Thank you again!
The aluminum tape on the jaws is something I will have to remember.
Hi Tom, great video as always! question - did you lap the "head" of the snug to get rid of the nub left over from the facing op in the lathe before clamping in the mill vise? I was thinking that maybe the nub (non flat) against the fixed jaw was causing the snug to not be level to the Y axis of the mill. In fact I thought that was where you were going to expose mr. Bozo.
I was wondering about that too...
The classic pullout of a round piece from the vise...
all is well that ends well Nice save
I recently turned some stainless of unknown variety. It was slightly magnetic and formed a chip like that 17-4 produced, though I was using hss. Do you know the reason the chip wasn't breaking? I was turning the od of disks using a collet, so the part wasn't too far in the collet and I wasn't taking high DOC's, so I thought my chip wasn't breaking for that reason. But after seeing you turn the snug, it seems more like the material property.
I really have to find the time to make a indicator depth gauge, its been on my list for a while.
-Pat
So: how did you get that part back in the vise with the partial hole parallel to the mill spindle? I've only done it with real finicky work with an indicator in the spindle running in the hole and that's a real PITA with a rough drilled home. I'mhoping that you have some trick that makes it easier.
Russ Kepler
I was wondering that as well. Maybe screw it back onto the drill, lower it down between the jaws of the vise, and clamp it down again? I'm thinking that, depending on how much material was left for the boring operation, it might not have needed to be _perfectly_ aligned anyway.
He had Mr Gozo help him out. (He is Mr Bozo's opposite!! LOL)
Eric
If I had a gage pin that fit the hole and also fit an available collet, I'd put the gage pin in the collet and then lower the pin into the hole in the part, then clamp it back in the vise. Then I suppose you could indicate it with a dial test indicator or coax. Then again I'm no expert.
Hi Tom, I wish you showed how you recovered. Usually you get screwed if you take the part out of the jaws before you're done. I'm guessing you indicated on the drilled hole and knocked it around until the hole was vertical? Did you start over with a new piece?
Tom - Machinist apprentice toolbox parts PDF - the link broke, is on your website? If not, can you provide a working link?
thanks for the video,, nice work ,,,
What are these neat adjustable shims called? Where can I get these?
I've looked all over the place on the web, couldn't find them. Maybe I'm not using the right search terms.
Great video, I always learn something.
Found it, it's readable on the video at 33:58. It's the Starrett 154A Adjustable Parallel.
Could you not sweep over the top of the part with the indicator for maximum reading in the X axis and that be absolute center?
Is your indicator tip dead nuts to the center of the spindle?
That's why I was asking, I'm not a machinist.
I was a welder for a machine shop and the older machinist would tram his vise and quill with indicators. When he would drill pipes and cut key ways he would put an end mill smaller that he needed and would touch off and move the dials and change tools and next thing you know it was done and perfect fit. I was too busy burning rods to learn anything.
If you sweep an end mill across the top (and step it down) at some point the mark it makes will be the same width as the end mill. Just visually line the mark with the end mill and you are very close to dead center.
Who says you have to be lucky OR good? Both is better. :) nice save on that break out... I wouldn't have called that either, as thick as the little thing is I wouldn't have thought it would deflect in the vice like that. One of those things that only makes sense after you see it.
Tom you're not boring... well yes you are boring, but you are not boring while boring. Cheers
Neat trick using alum. foil tape to pad the jaws.
Question: what's the rate of exchange for "Bozos" vs "aw shits?"
did I just witness a G96 on a manual lathe?
Four feet for perpendicularity, versus three: have you ever tried to make a Christmas tree plumb in a tree stand with three screws? If so, you understand the issue! Too much interaction between the adjustments.
I think the open invitation for Mr Bozo went out at 12:52
Mr. Bozo visits a bunch of folks. Enjoyed the video.
Maybe but obvious why you wouldn't but why not use 4 ball bearings as the feet
Use an aluminum jaw on the front. The part will make an impression in it and be harder to pull loose. Hard jaws are slippery.
Wouldn't three feet be even better than four?
Nice workTom, fending off Mr. Bozo.
Clamp it to the moon! That made me laugh, so that the ppl on the train gave me a strange look... :D
Excellent
Ahh the old helicopter, its one of the oldest tricks in the book! Next time you do a job like that go ahead and screw the nut on the end as it will protect the threads and it gives you a bigger lever arm so it won't be as easy to twist out of the vise. :-)
Take a closer look, in this case it didn't twist out of the vise at all. Once it broke through it pulled the part upwards. It didn't twist at all until it was lifted clear of the vise. There wasn't enough clamping pressure once it broke through to hold it in place against the uplift pressure of the drill.
Exactly what happened, fairly obvious it didn't twist out at all. Simply lifted out by the drill bit
If you mean by Twist it basically "screwed" itself upwards on the Helix of the Drill then yes
Good idea!!!
Your so right Andrew !
Great demonstration. :-) It always makes me cringe a little, when the drill bit exits unevenly, especially on tough materials. Do you have any magic tricks to make it easier? Because I could really use it. :-)
Hi Tom,
I can grind your angle plate for you if you haven't done so yet. I'm located in San Leandro CA., near the Oakland Airport.
Every time you say mr. Bozo is coming to visit the shop I'm always concerned and try to guess when hes going to rear is head
Grab, pitch and roll and no damage lucky on that.
Nice save, skill or luck we'll take it.
This is going to be one awesome and BEEFY squareness comparator! Great vid as always. Oh yeah, I was curious if there was any particular reason you went with the liquid love rather than the misty mist. Granted I've learned most of what know from you, but I've always used coolant for SS, my thinking was coolant would help to mitigate it work hardening. Is 17-4 better in this respect? I have worked with 17-4PH before and remember thinking it finished well, but how the in hell do I break this chip??? The answer of course was feed it like a it's that's been fasting for a month of Good Fridays. lol Thx Tom
I think he said it was already at h900 hardness, which I believe is as hard as that material gets. If anything, a cutting related heat-affected-zone could be softer?
You may very well be right. I took that to mean its as hard as it comes. I've never heard of a metal coming as hard as gets because it'd be too brittle, but I don't know much about precipitation hardened steels. I've just alway thought it's better to run coolant stainless for both material and cutter, but Tom knows way more than me and it might have been as simple as he knew oil would be fine and didn't want to "make a mess" with coolant sprayin' everywhere as he says.
Ништяк! (Goog job!)
In slow mo it looks like you yanked it straight up and out instead of twisting it free. Presumably the drill flutes stopped cutting, caught the last tit of metal and they then acted like a thread in a jack and just dragged it straight up and out guided by the jaws.
I just need to know why when Mr. Bozo visits my shop, there is usually fire, blood, swearing and things flying? Hmmmm, I know, YOU aren't doing it right!!! lol ;)
Tom you need to change the locks-Mr Bozo shouldn't have the keys to your shop!
No No Tom. We have enough Mr. Bozos down here in Naples, south Florida. :-)
Hi I'm from south Florida
Mr Bozo looks like the guy I see in the mirror every morning.
They're both pretty ugly. 😁
Nice piece as usual, Tom.
Thanks,
John
With that kind of luck a person should rush right out and get a lottery ticket.
To me, You are Mr Accurate. The centerpunch was a bozo move tho. Finding center with a centerpoint on the dot must be more accurate than the blind impression the centerpunch left. Just trying to learn here.
I think 17-4 machines better hardened.
1st one a practice,unless one gets lucky.
Just a thought here, 3 feet on the bottom and that device will never rock, on any surface. If it was me, every such tool would have only 3 feet. :)
HAH! Tom while you were moving to put on the aluminum tape, I was screaming "CLEAN THE JAWS!!!"
There's always gotta be some file work on a project, eh Tom?
New UA-cam game... count the number of "UMM"s used in this video.
I think mr. Bozo is friends with my engineering professor
Don't send him our way!!!! We got enough problems here already!!!
What ho young Tom, thought you might like to know I have posted some videos, at last, some of which even you might find interesting, now back to watching yours.
ATB
c
I Think We're All Bozos on This Bus
Don't crush that dwarf....... hand me the pliers.
Close the door and the light says on.
activa tractuctor soy sordo