Love the feet, super elegant design. The results from the rough grind really goes to show how big a difference good inspection makes. Knowing the calibration on your plate is like night and day levels of confidence.
Enjoy seeing your Hermann Schmidt vise in the video. Got mine from the Hermann himself, in late 60's. He used to go door to door to the machine shops in North Jersey selling direct. I was an apprentice at the time and got to pay off in time. Also bought his vise sine plate, blocks, and angle. Still have everything.
Extremly interesting precesion construction of your master square. So interesting how pieces from raw steel can be fabricated into such a high precision square. I'm looking forward to the final work after the heat treat. Tom, Thank you for sharing.
I've watched Tom's videos long before I bought the machinery for my hobby shop.....Tom, thank you! You are like the king of this type of video. The machining footage is hypnotic and acts like a sedative...I must have been a machinist in a former life.....I can fall asleep watching your vids, no offense.....I just like them....Thanks for doing these.
Well Tom, just laying here after back surgery, the mind is feeling hungry, and look, Meatloaf! Just what I was hungry for, Yumm! The project is looking good, looking forward to the next installment. Nice trick on the adjustable little feet. Meanwhile, I'm rooting the refrigerator, looking for meatloaf & such I missed, a good way to spend on your back time! Thanks!!
For all of the CNC work that I do I still get a ton of enjoyment watching things done by hand like this. Well done, sir. Hope you are doing great! Tom Z
REALLY cool video. I've been learning from you and adam and mrpete for awhile now, but still a little bit the newb. it took me awhile to figure out your adjustment legs. I eventually figured it out, and allI have to say is BRILLIANT! Very elegant design. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice indeed. Food for thought as a Master Square is quite expensive especially here in Australia. Just to have a nice reference tool like that for the small workshop would be so handy. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Good looking project. The welded construction is a huge benefit as making/getting a casting as base for such project is usually beyond the resources of us home gamers.
I notice your square check indicator. I like how heavy duty it is, using a big dial drop indicator instead of the smaller interapid that I use. I will be making one soon. Thanks for the inspiration!!
I just watched the LB lab tour video with John Saunders this morning, so when I saw 'composite', I was thinking glues, plastics, layers, you know, composites. When you were working on the lightening holes, I would have swore you were milling a composite material. I began to doubt that, when it 'clunked' on the vise, just a little, as you sat it down. Sounded like steel, then I started thinking, why would he need to lighten composite, THAT is why they are used, composites are already light. It was the grinding that confirmed my confusion. When you said composite, you meant multiple part... Ah well, it's been one of those days. My morning got interrupted for about 3 hours when a dare devil squirrel was immolated by a tranformer, which then exploded, knocking out power. My day never recovered... Guess I need to go back, and look at the first milling sequence, to see what I thought I was seeing... Thanks for sharing... still blown away by where you get to work. GeoD
Man Tom that was a HUGE cut on that one side edge, hell even .003" is deep on my t&p, but i'm grinding dry for the moment, gotta weld up a pvc wier tank for coolant. Got all the stuff, just lack the time. Ps. Thanks for getting back to the vids!
Its a wussy soft start of sorts. Just old habit. Probably does not make a lick of difference but I probably got yelled at at some point for not doing it.......
I know this is old This was sent for heat treatment? What kind of steel was this? The base (1st part) looked like 2x2 1/4 hot rolled? The sides might be tool steel but look like plate?
how come when using a surface grinder, the stone doesnt continuously wear down changing the accuracy?
7 років тому+1
SapperJohn it does. It's just quite slow. The edges break down first, so you should always run the wheel all of the way off of the part in the Y axis before stepping the Z axis down. Also, always remember that the notches on the Z axis adjustment wheel are only indicating that the center of the wheel has moved whatever distance you wanted it to. The cutting surface if the wheel might have moved 1:1 for any particular movement of the wheel, but tiny errors caused by the slow wear of the grinding wheel over a large job with many steps down will eventually add up to measurable differences between indicated movement and actual results. If you have been doing a lot of grinding, say 0.090 inch in hardened steel, (which is crazy, btw) it is quite likely that you haven't actually removed 0.090 of an inch of material. Use your micrometer religiously, and mill as close as you can so you don't need to grind very much.
Silly question or maybe its obvious but what is that white material the sparks are hitting on your surface grinder? I assume its to stop the sparks from going further and to get them to drop down but it looks like material of some sort but it isn't getting burnt by the sparks.
that round cylinder square looks a lot like one of mine that I made on the lathe. pretty handy using a black granite tile I got at home depot was flat' latest sweep not so much. there's still a corner that leads to the middle but hey found my squarest square demonstrate some fleemarket find squares for bet you'll find some old rusty one's that'll blow your mind thanks tom got one of those huntsman mig welders just love that helmet always be my favorite
Looking good so far. I bet you get it to 1 millionth or some other almost unobtainable accuracy. Ahl be baak for the next part. (I am still an Arnold fan).
Tom Lipton and Stefan Gotteswinter star in: "The World's Most Accurate Fidget Spinner Showdown"! No plans, just mano-a-mano for run-out and rotation time. What a showdown that would be!
Why don't grinders always grind a slightly uphill slant as you feed the workpiece across the wheel (not the back and forth horizontal, but the steady motion perpendicular to the repetitive horizontal axis)? Doesn't the wheel wear away and effectively become further from the surface the longer it is used?
I assume that the heat treat would stress relieve the block some.. Not sure of that's correct. Would it have been a good idea to heat the whole part to stress relieve before doing the rough grinding before heat treat? I like the setup for milling out the triangles.. I assume that they were mainly for looks. If going for weight I would think you could mill rectangles in the flat sides that mate the plates before welding.. I look forward to seeing this project finished. Thanks for the video..
Hi Max, The neat thing about case hardening is you get both qualities in one part. A hard tough exterior and a soft ductile core. We will see about long term stability I guess. Easy enough to monitor. Mass and weight are you friends when it comes to stuff like this. Its the old if its heavy it must be quality and precise...... Cheers, Tom
Thanks, I understand the case hardening process.. I'm was curious about the project changing shape since it's manly all cold rolled steel. I know that machining will also allow the material to distort.. Guy Lautard mentioned it in one of his bedside reader books. As I understand the heat treat process. The metal is heated to a point that allows carbon to be introduced into the surface making the surface harder..Still have a can of Kasenit around here someplace. I'm thinking that at that temp any stress due to the cold rolling of the base pieces would be relieved causing the part to shift. Also the welding would create more stress in the part. I was wondering if it would have been a good idea to stress relieve the part before initial finishing and heat treat.
You didn't need to flip the vice around to mill those triangles. Simply flip the part in the vice around the spindle axis and those angles are now on the Y axis as they were before.
I'm just wondering why not do a stress-relief heat treatment after welding to remove the welding stresses and the material stresses. That way it doesn't move pretty much at all in hardening or if it moves much, then the heat treater is to blame.
Can someone explain to me why he surface grinds the part before welding? The precision will be gone after the welding and you will have to grind it after that anyway. Seems to me like a redundant step.
To make it as parallel as possible so I can keep everything about the same thickness and parallel as I move outward. The tube was out of parallel by 1/2mm so that would have come out in grinding the face plates which have significantly more area. Grinding was probably not necessary.
Tom, when does wheel degradation become and issue when grinding? I understand that the type of wheel and material have a lot to do with it, but if your taking large passes and wanted precision, how do you account for wheel degradation?
I still never be able to fully understand why grinders are used because those wheels can wear out. At the start, those wheel diameter were big and during grinding that diameter will get smaller therefore how can I ensure that the entire piece is perfectly flat?
oxtoolco Shouldn't the second pivot on the sine bar be resting against the the same jaw face as the gauge blocks? [edit] Never mind. . . Viewing error on my part. The tiny amount it obstructs the view of the vice, it appears to be resting on the end as others have observed.
Looking good Tom! Have you considered grinding/turning a very shallow taper on the head of a SHCS for your adjustment screws for better resolution and shock stability instead of the steep flat head angle? Thanks again for all your support! ATB, Robin
Hey Robin. You are probably right it would be better to have a steeper angle. I built one flexure before hand and tested it to see how well it behaved. It took considerable force to move the foot and seemed controllable so I decided I would trade fastener tension for resolution in this case. The goal is to lap the feet accurately but have an adjustable back door if needed. All the best, Tom
robrenz.....sir...the internet isnt the same without constant videos from you..I sure wish youd either stop making videos aLL TOGETHER SO WE SO SIT AND WAIT.,.,OR MAke some videos....youre missed ir!!
Tom, you should have age (old) the part after welding. It can be distorted, bent with time. Aging can be speed up by placing in fire, and then slow cool down
That is a better name than composite. Its a nod to the Pratt Whitney truss design level and snap gages. Look them up as they are pretty cool looking. Best, Tom
Another great video. What is your clean up after using the NOGA Cool Mist? I have a mill about identical to yours except it says EISON and I am concerned with rust under the vise after using the Cool Mist. Do you dismount your vise to clean after using the mister either on your mill or surface grinder?
Shop vac. The surface under the mag chuck is prepared and protected prior to mounting the chuck. Once you have the mag chuck trued up you generally leave it as long as possible.
oxtoolco how do you prep the surface under the chuck so it won't rust? I just got a surface grinder and am wondering what will I find under there. Not sure if I'll take it off yet, waiting to hook it up and see how flat it is first.
Fantastic video. Fascinating. Do you use the file wrong at 1:50? I had this idea that you're only supposed to move the file along its length, not side to side.
This was just rough grinding. The square still needs to go out for heat treating. I don't think an intermediate stress relief would have much effect. Cheers, Tom
Hi Kenny. Its actually two inches thick. I had the rough stock plate of my welding table blanchard ground. It was actually pretty cheap at $500 and free delivery. Cheers. Tom
The Metal Butcher that sort of tube material is bent from flat ish stock and welded into a tube, it's not exactly precision stock. The plates look like they're pretty flat plate material from the factory - which makes sense, those roller mills are pretty damn precise, much more so than the tube forming mills.
"A machinist can never leave good enough alone." That's the most accurate quote I've ever heard.
Amen
Just skived off what i am supposed to be doing to watch this. Time well spent...clearly. Thanks for the film, truly lovely to watch. thanks
Patience, precision and planning, that's what makes this channel so very interesting. Thanks for sharing young man. Kindest regards. Joe.
Love the feet, super elegant design. The results from the rough grind really goes to show how big a difference good inspection makes. Knowing the calibration on your plate is like night and day levels of confidence.
Love to see you making stuff again (on camera for us to watch). Very enjoyable.
Glad to see your smiling face working in your shop again on really neat projects.
Nothing better than to watch the creation of a precision measurement tool to unobtainium specs!
Enjoy seeing your Hermann Schmidt vise in the video. Got mine from the Hermann himself, in late 60's. He used to go door to door to the machine shops in North Jersey selling direct. I was an apprentice at the time and got to pay off in time. Also bought his vise sine plate, blocks, and angle. Still have everything.
Extremly interesting precesion construction of your master square. So interesting how pieces from raw steel can be fabricated into such a high precision square. I'm looking forward to the final work after the heat treat.
Tom, Thank you for sharing.
I've watched Tom's videos long before I bought the machinery for my hobby shop.....Tom, thank you! You are like the king of this type of video. The machining footage is hypnotic and acts like a sedative...I must have been a machinist in a former life.....I can fall asleep watching your vids, no offense.....I just like them....Thanks for doing these.
Well Tom, just laying here after back surgery, the mind is feeling hungry, and look, Meatloaf! Just what I was hungry for, Yumm! The project is looking good, looking forward to the next installment. Nice trick on the adjustable little feet. Meanwhile, I'm rooting the refrigerator, looking for meatloaf & such I missed, a good way to spend on your back time! Thanks!!
For all of the CNC work that I do I still get a ton of enjoyment watching things done by hand like this. Well done, sir. Hope you are doing great!
Tom Z
That's the nicest and cleanest welding table I've ever seen
Dear Mr. Wizzard I am so GLAD Your Back ! GREAT VID as usual .Greetings From New Mexico.
Additive manufacturing has it's advantages but nothing beats substrative when it comes to viewing pleasure!
REALLY cool video. I've been learning from you and adam and mrpete for awhile now, but still a little bit the newb. it took me awhile to figure out your adjustment legs. I eventually figured it out, and allI have to say is BRILLIANT! Very elegant design. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice indeed. Food for thought as a Master Square is quite expensive especially here in Australia. Just to have a nice reference tool like that for the small workshop would be so handy. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
It is very impressive to see how aggressively those professional machines go through material
Love watching the master at work Tom, Carn't wait for part two :) cheers mate
Good looking project. The welded construction is a huge benefit as making/getting a casting as base for such project is usually beyond the resources of us home gamers.
I'm finally buying my mini lathe tomorrow after many years of wanting it lol. I cannot wait to make some chips!
I notice your square check indicator. I like how heavy duty it is, using a big dial drop indicator instead of the smaller interapid that I use. I will be making one soon. Thanks for the inspiration!!
Love the new 1 2 3 blocks too. thanks for sharing. Very well done.
Was good to see you get well grounded in your task at hand...
Beautiful work, thanks for sharing. I love your videos!
Excellent work, Tom. Many thanks.
I just watched the LB lab tour video with John Saunders this morning, so when I saw 'composite', I was thinking glues, plastics, layers, you know, composites.
When you were working on the lightening holes, I would have swore you were milling a composite material. I began to doubt that, when it 'clunked' on the vise, just a little, as you sat it down.
Sounded like steel, then I started thinking, why would he need to lighten composite, THAT is why they are used, composites are already light.
It was the grinding that confirmed my confusion. When you said composite, you meant multiple part...
Ah well, it's been one of those days. My morning got interrupted for about 3 hours when a dare devil squirrel was immolated by a tranformer, which then exploded, knocking out power.
My day never recovered...
Guess I need to go back, and look at the first milling sequence, to see what I thought I was seeing...
Thanks for sharing... still blown away by where you get to work.
GeoD
You do amazing work! Love the channel.
Always super interesting Tom, enjoying this series I am!
Outstanding project Tom.
Bill from Seattle.
I envy that bat cave of yours Tom! All those wonderful toys -the surface grinder I would die for mate. Keep the loaf coming buddy.
Never forgot the ground clamp but have had it jump off a couple of times, frustrating as hell. Nice looking piece of tooling Tom..
Good stuff! I'm really looking forward to the results of heat treat, not enough about that whole field on the net. Thanks, mate!
Man Tom that was a HUGE cut on that one side edge, hell even .003" is deep on my t&p, but i'm grinding dry for the moment, gotta weld up a pvc wier tank for coolant. Got all the stuff, just lack the time.
Ps. Thanks for getting back to the vids!
With small step overs it works fine. You can take even more than that safely. Just think like a centerless grinder.
Cheers,
Tom
Love this video, watched it a few times now.
This is hypnotizing. Thanks for sharing!
really love the choice to use a truss design in there.
Классная работа. Почти как у ДМ! Мечики у Вас очень хорошие. Жаль у нас таких не делают. Успехов Вам!!!
Looks good Tom, will be interesting to see the movement after heat treat.
Nice trick with the rubber bands!
Loving the TT sticker! Greetings from the Isle of Man :)
Unusual method of construction. Many variables added to the long term stability equation. I guess the proof will be in the eating
enjoyed cant wait to see the finished piece
Can we get the sequel video sir? I would like to see how that finishes :)
Very nice video. Congratulations !
Forgot about earth clamp, lots of times. I'm wondering what's happening to the printing press? Thanks Tom.
Oh! Nice Plexiglas pry-bar. I'm stealing that idea :)
Hah, You spotted that!
Cheers,
Tom
Great project Tom. Matt C.
with the grinding wheel, do you notice the wear across a surface like the side of that object?
why do they use that vertical saw thing. is that like the big guns for milling flatness?
Good video, Mr. Ox.
Was their ever a follow up video of this after the heat treatment or did it not survive the process
Man, I just started building the 123 block, now you are showing something else?! Great video as always though.
Good video, great advice. Note: did not realize that Shasta made a good lubricant, lol. Thank you!
Curious as to why you give the grinder wheel a spin before powering it up.
Its a wussy soft start of sorts. Just old habit. Probably does not make a lick of difference but I probably got yelled at at some point for not doing it.......
Tom, that master square is looking real good so far, It'l be interesting to see how it fare's after heat treat.
I know this is old
This was sent for heat treatment? What kind of steel was this? The base (1st part) looked like 2x2 1/4 hot rolled?
The sides might be tool steel but look like plate?
how come when using a surface grinder, the stone doesnt continuously wear down changing the accuracy?
SapperJohn it does. It's just quite slow.
The edges break down first, so you should always run the wheel all of the way off of the part in the Y axis before stepping the Z axis down.
Also, always remember that the notches on the Z axis adjustment wheel are only indicating that the center of the wheel has moved whatever distance you wanted it to. The cutting surface if the wheel might have moved 1:1 for any particular movement of the wheel, but tiny errors caused by the slow wear of the grinding wheel over a large job with many steps down will eventually add up to measurable differences between indicated movement and actual results. If you have been doing a lot of grinding, say 0.090 inch in hardened steel, (which is crazy, btw) it is quite likely that you haven't actually removed 0.090 of an inch of material. Use your micrometer religiously, and mill as close as you can so you don't need to grind very much.
got it! thanks so much
Silly question or maybe its obvious but what is that white material the sparks are hitting on your surface grinder? I assume its to stop the sparks from going further and to get them to drop down but it looks like material of some sort but it isn't getting burnt by the sparks.
How stable is structural tubing for a master square? Or will it be stress relived and normalized in heat treat?
that round cylinder square looks a lot like one of mine that I made on the lathe. pretty handy using a black granite tile I got at home depot was flat' latest sweep not so much. there's still a corner that leads to the middle but hey found my squarest square demonstrate some fleemarket find squares for bet you'll find some old rusty one's that'll blow your mind thanks tom got one of those huntsman mig welders just love that helmet always be my favorite
Did a follow up video ever get made? The heat treat and final finishing?
Looking good so far. I bet you get it to 1 millionth or some other almost unobtainable accuracy. Ahl be baak for the next part. (I am still an Arnold fan).
You got to separate Arnold the man from Arnold the actor, two different people.
How do you protect sensitive electronics from high voltage? I'm building EBM metal 3d printer and don't want to fry shop equipment, thanks
Get rid of all your sensitive electronics....... Just kidding. Don't get any electronics between the ground and electrode.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom Lipton and Stefan Gotteswinter star in: "The World's Most Accurate Fidget Spinner Showdown"! No plans, just mano-a-mano for run-out and rotation time. What a showdown that would be!
Poncho likes bacon With robrenz quietly smiling in the background for some reason…
If Robin wants to join in it's open to all comers. This Old Tony, Mr. Crispin, Joe Pie, let's have a pissing contest!
Why don't grinders always grind a slightly uphill slant as you feed the workpiece across the wheel (not the back and forth horizontal, but the steady motion perpendicular to the repetitive horizontal axis)? Doesn't the wheel wear away and effectively become further from the surface the longer it is used?
Hey! Yer draggin that file backwards again lol. Thanks for the vid Tom. Im on the lookout for a surface grinder!
I assume that the heat treat would stress relieve the block some.. Not sure of that's correct. Would it have been a good idea to heat the whole part to stress relieve before doing the rough grinding before heat treat? I like the setup for milling out the triangles.. I assume that they were mainly for looks. If going for weight I would think you could mill rectangles in the flat sides that mate the plates before welding.. I look forward to seeing this project finished. Thanks for the video..
Hi Max,
The neat thing about case hardening is you get both qualities in one part. A hard tough exterior and a soft ductile core. We will see about long term stability I guess. Easy enough to monitor. Mass and weight are you friends when it comes to stuff like this. Its the old if its heavy it must be quality and precise......
Cheers,
Tom
Chewy on the inside and crunchy on the outside like an armadillo or a dime bar! Maybe that joke only works in Europe?
Thanks, I understand the case hardening process.. I'm was curious about the project changing shape since it's manly all cold rolled steel. I know that machining will also allow the material to distort.. Guy Lautard mentioned it in one of his bedside reader books. As I understand the heat treat process. The metal is heated to a point that allows carbon to be introduced into the surface making the surface harder..Still have a can of Kasenit around here someplace. I'm thinking that at that temp any stress due to the cold rolling of the base pieces would be relieved causing the part to shift. Also the welding would create more stress in the part. I was wondering if it would have been a good idea to stress relieve the part before initial finishing and heat treat.
what are the name of tools used in 23:14 :) ??
You didn't need to flip the vice around to mill those triangles. Simply flip the part in the vice around the spindle axis and those angles are now on the Y axis as they were before.
but how did they do the first master square?
I'm just wondering why not do a stress-relief heat treatment after welding to remove the welding stresses and the material stresses. That way it doesn't move pretty much at all in hardening or if it moves much, then the heat treater is to blame.
What's up with all the bearing noise from the surface grinder? Are the bearings a little sad? Is it a hydraulic drive?
Is there a follow on to this? i couldn't find it
Never made a part 2? Did heat treat really mess it up?
MAN TOM ID VISIT THAT BAND SAW SO MUCH IF I LIVED CLOSE LOVE IT !!!!! thanks for sharing
Can someone explain to me why he surface grinds the part before welding? The precision will be gone after the welding and you will have to grind it after that anyway. Seems to me like a redundant step.
The more square it is to start with the less you have to square up in the end.
But wouldn't milling be good enough?
To make it as parallel as possible so I can keep everything about the same thickness and parallel as I move outward. The tube was out of parallel by 1/2mm so that would have come out in grinding the face plates which have significantly more area. Grinding was probably not necessary.
Waiting for the heat treatment! Greetings from Finland!
Tom, when does wheel degradation become and issue when grinding? I understand that the type of wheel and material have a lot to do with it, but if your taking large passes and wanted precision, how do you account for wheel degradation?
See comment above. The edges break down first and the diameter lasts a long time.
Like the Isle of Man sticker on your welding mask
I enjoy your videos. A suggestion for a name, Slide Form, or Tap Form, kinda obvious but simple and easy to live with.
I still never be able to fully understand why grinders are used because those wheels can wear out. At the start, those wheel diameter were big and during grinding that diameter will get smaller therefore how can I ensure that the entire piece is perfectly flat?
3:17 - noob question, what in that picture is the 'sidebar' please? Thanks! :)
Hi Wireline. "Sine Bar". This is the plate/bar clamped in the vise to help me measure and set a precise angle. Cheers. Tom
oxtoolco Shouldn't the second pivot on the sine bar be resting against the the same jaw face as the gauge blocks? [edit] Never mind. . . Viewing error on my part. The tiny amount it obstructs the view of the vice, it appears to be resting on the end as others have observed.
Ahh ok thanks!
How do you think the carbourised case will stand up to the movement around the flexture radius? I enjoy these experiments!
As long as it works in the elastic deformation range it should be fine. And I don't think it's supposed to go in the plastic deformation range.
We will be moving the steel in the elastic range so it will not be a problem.
I guess you will be building it close enough to only need a few microns or so adjustment on each foot
first comment! thanks Tom, really appreciate the opportunity to learn that these videos present.
Hey Emma,
Thanks for stopping by!
All the best,
Tom
Looking good Tom! Have you considered grinding/turning a very shallow taper on the head of a SHCS for your adjustment screws for better resolution and shock stability instead of the steep flat head angle? Thanks again for all your support!
ATB, Robin
Hey Robin. You are probably right it would be better to have a steeper angle. I built one flexure before hand and tested it to see how well it behaved. It took considerable force to move the foot and seemed controllable so I decided I would trade fastener tension for resolution in this case. The goal is to lap the feet accurately but have an adjustable back door if needed.
All the best,
Tom
robrenz.....sir...the internet isnt the same without constant videos from you..I sure wish youd either stop making videos aLL TOGETHER SO WE SO SIT AND WAIT.,.,OR MAke some videos....youre missed ir!!
Tom, you should have age (old) the part after welding. It can be distorted, bent with time. Aging can be speed up by placing in fire, and then slow cool down
I am likeing Toms Truss Square.
That is a better name than composite. Its a nod to the Pratt Whitney truss design level and snap gages. Look them up as they are pretty cool looking.
Best,
Tom
Tom's Truly True Truss Square?
how to reduce stresses from a construction after welding?
Another great video. What is your clean up after using the NOGA Cool Mist? I have a mill about identical to yours except it says EISON and I am concerned with rust under the vise after using the Cool Mist. Do you dismount your vise to clean after using the mister either on your mill or surface grinder?
Shop vac. The surface under the mag chuck is prepared and protected prior to mounting the chuck. Once you have the mag chuck trued up you generally leave it as long as possible.
oxtoolco how do you prep the surface under the chuck so it won't rust? I just got a surface grinder and am wondering what will I find under there. Not sure if I'll take it off yet, waiting to hook it up and see how flat it is first.
Fantastic video. Fascinating.
Do you use the file wrong at 1:50? I had this idea that you're only supposed to move the file along its length, not side to side.
Which material did you use for this project. Apologies if you said and I missed it
shouldn't it be annealed or stress-relieved before grinding?
This was just rough grinding. The square still needs to go out for heat treating. I don't think an intermediate stress relief would have much effect.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco thanks for replying. I like your videos
Dying to know what happened during heat treatment, is there a part 2??
Has not been heat treated yet. Part 2 coming soon. Cheers. Tom
Cool!! It's a great project and I'm curious to see how it may move about. I may add this to my project pile to do about 5 years after I retire lol
great... always a pleasure to watch
Whoa are you welding on 1.5" ground stock plate?!! You get to play with all of the toys
Hi Kenny. Its actually two inches thick. I had the rough stock plate of my welding table blanchard ground. It was actually pretty cheap at $500 and free delivery. Cheers. Tom
i dont know if you mentioned this in the video, but what material is this master square made from?
a master of chip control.... I love it
Wait. You ground the square tube, but didn't grind the flat plates before welding? Why one and not the other?
The tube was pretty bad. The two plates were decent enough I didn't bother.
The Metal Butcher that sort of tube material is bent from flat ish stock and welded into a tube, it's not exactly precision stock.
The plates look like they're pretty flat plate material from the factory - which makes sense, those roller mills are pretty damn precise, much more so than the tube forming mills.
How's the square's stability so far? Any measurable changes?