Lots found and taken care of today. Best thing is they are all done right. Nice load off and you got a great find too my friend. Worth getting up on this day forsure eh. Take care eh.
The first time I watched this I missed the part of the Gr8 bolt. I worked in a logging shop that never reused a bolt. I brought home 5 gal buckets of them. The deal was if you can pack it the 50 feet out the door you can have it. I put them on a creeper, LOL but what a bear to lift into my pickup. From 2 inches to 1/4 inch and as well a few over 2 inch special order ones. Awesome lathe fodder eh my friend. I see you hand feeding the lathe. Dose it no longer work ? I know the lead screw does work for threading. I have the same threading tool holder. K makes good tooling. I love mine.
I was just thinking “I wish Steve would explain how to determine the depth of cut to get my hex to the right size” and at that exact moment you explained it perfectly. Mystery is over! Thanks, Steve.
The inside bed of Johnny Cash would look killer with a Raptor-liner self spray in bed liner! Keep it from rustin too! More content for the channel as well!
When saw you pull off the brake caliper I saw a Bendix 4152828 caliper. That is the same on my 30' Winnebago RV. I had to repair the right rear rotor which had completely worn out the outside edge and a missing brake pad, which had totally worn out. The problem was the caliper mounts had rusted and locked the caliper side-to-side motion. You must clean and smooth out the lower and upper mounts and apply caliper grease to prevent new rust. My rig has dual rear wheels and a pressed-on rotor to the hub.
Good job Steve. I missed it the year of the truck. I had a 1979 Silverado Suburban 1/2 ton with a 305 cui four spd. Actually a three spd with granny gear. Glad your brother is doing the seats because I had the front seat done way back when and it cast a small fortune. Had that truck for ~15 years.
Hi Steve. Old Johnny Cash keeps getting better and better. Wish I was closer, I would reach out to Rick for some interior work. That stuff is like a black art to me! He did a beautiful job. Thanks for the video!
So good to see this Saturday, every video is where in alot of ways I learn something. I must say Johnny Cash is really looking good. A man with many talents, and it's always a good time n experience. You are never to old to lean something new. Hope n pray that your daughter is doing good. Grandpa Steve. Enjoy your time as a grandfather, it goes faster than you think. So til next time, stay safe .
I misunderstood in the beginning and thought you said dumpster fire. Some of those can be interesting also. Johnny Cash is looking good I'm sure you will get a lot of good use out of it. Cooler weather will be here soon enough!
Looking at your compressor: Not many folks know that the first diesel locomotive in the USA was powered by a diesel engine built by Ingersoll Rand. "In 1923, General Electric built the electrical components, Ingersoll-Rand the four-stroke diesel engine, and the American Locomotive Company the carbody of a 300-horsepower 60-ton diesel-electric switcher." (from Steamtown). Thanks for another excellent video. It is always useful to hear how you calculate doc for making a hex. Cheers from Germany.
It could be a machining error, I guess. If it was me, I would swap a wheel and tire 1st, then dig deeper if it continued. I've seen rotors be out of balance before as well and cause high speed vibration. Especially on the larger ones like on heavier trucks. I'm interested to see what you find.
@@SteveSummers I have moved wheels around before and no change even tried a different set of wheels and tires so pretty sure it is something else. Could be rotor related. Would be nice if I had one of those on vehicle balancers to see what is going on but oh well, got to start somewhere!
I don't know that they'd be the same quality, but treadmills have similar DC motors. They show up occasionally in the local bike/fitness center. Only drawback might be the digital speed control circuitry. CHEERS
i picked up a roll up tonneau cover to replace the fiberglass cap it came with. it's so much nicer having full access of the bed without crawling into it
I do love the look of those fiberglass covers on a show truck. Access to the bed is horrible with them and even storing the cover when not being used is a pain because of the size.
Happy Saturday Steve, Elizabeth, Cora, and Grits! Good video on the lathe and the truck. It always pleases me when I find something in the junk that works and fills a need. Good Job, God Bless!
On little lathes I run backwards and pushes the tool up and away from the work piece. My small is as ridged as a noodle. I have done some work to it and it’s better. Thanks for sharing.
If I'd heard anybody else say "I carry an infrared thermometer with me" I would have considered that a clear invitation to mock/scorn etc etc. But when you said that, I immediately thought, makes absolute sense, Steve open carries that bad boy and he uses it.
Steve, I totaly agree with you about the amount of grease in bearings. During my working days (I'm retired now) I've seen more bearings die of far too much grease than too little. Sometimes it was so bad, that I needed a srewdriver to get the bearing out of its grave.
Everyday is a school day. I noticed when you were cutting the 45degree taper, the compound had been rotated clockwise... On my tiny lathe I have been rotating anticlockwise, which probably gives more tendency to chatter or snatch. I'll try it your way, as long as have clearance on the chuck. I've never had any machining tuition, so I really enjoy your stuff. (making wooden bows and arrows is where my expertise lies)
Used to do a lot of dumpster diving till I ran out of space to put things. That old adage of the amount of stuff you have is proportional to the amount of space you have. Love watching the machining work. Wish I had access to such machines at times.
Man you aint kidding, i love old manual machines, whether sewing machines or typewriters, old printing presses, you name it ive probably got it. I too have run out if space, so im in the market for a bigger house.
Yep, been saying no to more and more stuff! Infant, the stuff I've accumulated, I'm going to be thinning out! Basically, only got a limited time left here on earth.
maybe someone else said this. tightening wheel bearings.. snug up, back off. then tighten the nut HAND tight. if the cotter pin does not line up then back off until it does. i did not invent this. there was a GM campaign back in the days about this. getting technical there should be 1 to 3 thou end play
180VDC motor implies 240VAC feed. Maybe that’s why it’s anemic/doesn’t start from closer to zero on the dial? Or if it’s actually designed for 120VAC and has a doubler maybe the caps are shot.
The pot also needs some contact cleaner - it's pretty intermittent as he was adjusting it - dropping out randomly as it was adjusted. Some contact cleaner (with lube - pretty important for pots to use a cleaner that leaves a little bit of lube behind) in the pot and it'd be good as new
Thanks for another one Steve, great dumpster find there, 1hp with the drive probably a $6-800 find if you checked ebay. As a few other have mentioned may want to check input voltage on drive. I work with some smaller bodine& baldor DC 180v motors, 1/6-1/16hp and most those are 120v input to drive. Majority of 1/2-1hp DC motors ive seen use 220V input on drive
I think the only thing it needs is some contact cleaner (with lube) sprayed into the pot (speed control knob). Clearly the pot contacts have oxidized. With some contact cleaner in there, it'd be good as new
Nice to see some machining. I usually don't bother to turn the diameter down to the hex across points, because that will end up correct if it is milled to the correct A/F. I also generally side mill the hex, unless the print calls otherwise, it leaves a nice radius at the root and avoids the sharp corners.
they don't indicate off the bearing races. but they do use them to mount the rotors onto the brake lathe. they have tapered spacers the have a slow radius on them. one of these is placed at either bearing race and sinched down with the big stud you see on brake lathes. love your channel. thanks for sharing.
Steve, if you take that speed controller apart and spray some contact cleaner with lube into the potentiometer (like deoxit or fader cleaner), it will probably work a lot better. The contacts in the pots get oxidized with time - that's why it's a little flakey as you're turning it, and maybe not quite hitting the speed you think it should be - like when you said "I'd expect 35% to be more than that". Once you clean / lube the pot, that thing will work good as new!
I think if you stripped the speed control you would find a wirewound rheostat that needed a clean with some brake cleaner or electrical degreaser, and the result would be a smooth acceleration from low to high speed. Love your videos, keep it up! Phil, UK
I bet that motor has bushings and they are worn out, and the (commutator?) just needs a little clean and skuff with emory on a wood block, and it would run better at low current
if you got a desktop cnc, something capable of doing aluminum, and a 4th axis(maybe 225$ for the lot), you could mill flattish aluminum rose nut covers, or something else. for h-ween some skulls and skeleton hand crystal ball holders... next h-ween.
I was thinking the same thing. I don't have problems with milky oil in the compressor at all but my compressor is inside. I live not too far from Steve in east Tennessee, we have the same sort of humidity in the summer.
I became a Steve Summer addict, back when you worked on that old giant band saw. Do tell, whatever became the eventual fate of the saw,? Would love to know.
Good evening from Greece. My opinion it's time to change this lathe maybe something new convinied with digital screen to helping you. Best regards from Greece John Grizopoulos retired machinist
Have you ever mentioned that rather special leadscrew reverse that the Hendey lathes have? It appears to make thread cutting a lot less troublesome. No stopping and reversing the spindle, or (as I understand it) waiting for the right number on the threading dial)
I was thinking about that as well, I thought it was a bit of trickery with the filming. I've worked on Hendey shapers but not Hendey lathes so I wasn't aware of the leadscrew reverse facility. Regarding the plug being cut off the dumpster (skip here in the UK) find, it absolves whoever chucked it in there from any liability. Eleventh commandment for modern times :- Cover thine a55 at all times! All The Best from Somerset, England.
Well Mr Summers, I think you may just be telling fibs. I don’t think there is any way Elizabeth can get groceries into the back of Johnny Cash because she’s too small to reach past the tailgate and she’s definitely to small to reach over the sides😂. I do owe you an apology because even though I didn’t post a comment, I was one of those that thought the wheel spikes looked like something out of Mad Max and were dangerous without realising they were plastic and how easily they come off. Great score on the electric motor and controller, I’m a diehard dumpster diver and it still amazes me what gets thrown away, but hey, it’s great for people like us. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Sir, you know that anyone can drive a new vehicle, not everyone can drive a classic or an antique, so feel privileged when driving a classic or an antique.
the variety episode - great that your shop is all together and mostly functioning - you have an impressive array of tooling capability at this point and it shows - keep cranking and do some brainstorming on late fall projects and stuff you will do over the winter - thanks for the always excellent varied content #one piece at a time
Man, I could sure think of a bunch of better things to do with that DC variable speed motor that to put on a fan. It would make it great motor for a power feed of any kind. Would also make a great conveyor controller for a drum sander or the like. They certainly aren't cheap.
When you cut the hex on the bolt it might have been a good idea to turn off the spindle before rotating the part. You have the experience and are comfortable with leaving it running, but a novice might see this, think its the way they should do it, and meet the cutter with their hand!
And while on the safety subject. It's also not a good idea to support the weight of a vehicle on just a jack alone. Especially when said jack is on a soft surface.
I changed my compressor's oil (much smaller than yours) not too long ago, and to be honest, I was sort of surprised how clean it was after probably 5 years of use. I did quite a bit of searching for compressor oil since the "factory" oil was basically unobtainium and found that I could get a decent sized jug for the cost of the thimble full of factory oil.
I changed a basic I-R 60 gal two weeks ago and the oil looked like new after maybe 18 years, including 5 it sat. Looked like new which surprised me too
Moly D is the absolute best cutting lubricant for stainless. Why is it so hard to find? I have tried Anchor Lube and it’s not even close. Any suggestions on a good source? Maybe Castrol can sponsor you?
Hi Steve, great episode mate. Your brother's upholstery work is absolutely top notch that back seat looks fantastic! With your brake rotor change ( we call them discs here in the UK) I know you skimmed the other one and I bet the whole hub complete with disc is not a cheap item, but did you not consider changing out both hub/ rotors at the same time? I ask because usually here it is recommended that both are changed because if both discs are not of the same thickness it is considered to have a braking imbalance which will affect the way your vehicle will stop. Cheers from the UK
I just skimmed the driver rotor and it's still got a ton of life left. In regards to rotor thickness, it shouldn't make a difference in breaking power. A thinner rotor would heat faster and possibly fade quicker than a thicker rotor. Thanks for watching bud👍
I could never understand packing the hubs full of grease. Even the grease that's right in the bearing will move away from the rollers and not be in actual contact with them. Modern grease does not melt and flow until something like 250 degrees, and if the bearings ever get that hot, something is already failing.
Moth balls are the only trick that I know of, but they can be a little powerfull on the nose. My vehicles are parked outside but they get driven which sort of scares the mice off. They seem to settle in a vehicle when it doesn't move often.
I'm not sure why Steve does it but I do that when I'm making short passes or I don't care about the surface finish. Plus my lathe is over 80 years old and the less wear and tear I put on the gear train the better.
Great video
Cheers Steve, And Cheers Elisabeth too. Nice wheels!
Love the madmax wheel hubs.
Your brother does nice work
One piece at a time!
nice tooling
Thanks Buddy your uploads are always varied interesting and just plain top notch love your ch mate regards from DOWNUNDER
"Like I was going to drive through the dog park" made me laugh so hard… 🤣
Thanks, Steve, for reminding me to change my compressor oil.
Nice shop
Good stuff
Still missing your usual Sat posts but these always work for a Steve fix.
Lots found and taken care of today. Best thing is they are all done right. Nice load off and you got a great find too my friend. Worth getting up on this day forsure eh. Take care eh.
Excelent job by your brother. Looking good
44:45 I love the metal visors
The first time I watched this I missed the part of the Gr8 bolt. I worked in a logging shop that never reused a bolt. I brought home 5 gal buckets of them. The deal was if you can pack it the 50 feet out the door you can have it. I put them on a creeper, LOL but what a bear to lift into my pickup. From 2 inches to 1/4 inch and as well a few over 2 inch special order ones. Awesome lathe fodder eh my friend. I see you hand feeding the lathe. Dose it no longer work ? I know the lead screw does work for threading. I have the same threading tool holder. K makes good tooling. I love mine.
The thread shown on the drawing is a left-hand thread.
I was just thinking “I wish Steve would explain how to determine the depth of cut to get my hex to the right size” and at that exact moment you explained it perfectly. Mystery is over! Thanks, Steve.
Look up machinist handbook it will have dimensions
Yep, great idea/method!
Thank you for showing off your brother's work. He is going to be turning potential customers down because he'll be too busy.
The inside bed of Johnny Cash would look killer with a Raptor-liner self spray in bed liner! Keep it from rustin too! More content for the channel as well!
Afterwards Steve 😊
I have used that style of Dayton DC motor and controller on glacier drilling projects.
You get lots of water in your air compressor oil
When saw you pull off the brake caliper I saw a Bendix 4152828 caliper. That is the same on my 30' Winnebago RV. I had to repair the right rear rotor which had completely worn out the outside edge and a missing brake pad, which had totally worn out. The problem was the caliper mounts had rusted and locked the caliper side-to-side motion. You must clean and smooth out the lower and upper mounts and apply caliper grease to prevent new rust. My rig has dual rear wheels and a pressed-on rotor to the hub.
Good job Steve. I missed it the year of the truck. I had a 1979 Silverado Suburban 1/2 ton with a 305 cui four spd. Actually a three spd with granny gear. Glad your brother is doing the seats because I had the front seat done way back when and it cast a small fortune. Had that truck for ~15 years.
It's always a nice weekend,when i can enjoy a video of you.Thanks Steve
Thank you for sharing. Nice fine in the dumpster, enjoyed the video.👍
Hi Steve. Old Johnny Cash keeps getting better and better. Wish I was closer, I would reach out to Rick for some interior work. That stuff is like a black art to me! He did a beautiful job. Thanks for the video!
So good to see this Saturday, every video is where in alot of ways I learn something. I must say Johnny Cash is really looking good. A man with many talents, and it's always a good time n experience. You are never to old to lean something new. Hope n pray that your daughter is doing good. Grandpa Steve. Enjoy your time as a grandfather, it goes faster than you think. So til next time, stay safe .
Morning from Dorset, UK 👋
Ditto
I tighten my wheel bearings like those very similar to your method.
Those spiked lug covers are killer cool!
I misunderstood in the beginning and thought you said dumpster fire. Some of those can be interesting also. Johnny Cash is looking good I'm sure you will get a lot of good use out of it. Cooler weather will be here soon enough!
grate steve saludos de santiago de chile
Thanks 👍
Looking at your compressor: Not many folks know that the first diesel locomotive in the USA was powered by a diesel engine built by Ingersoll Rand. "In 1923, General Electric built the electrical components, Ingersoll-Rand the four-stroke diesel engine, and the American Locomotive Company the carbody of a 300-horsepower 60-ton diesel-electric switcher." (from Steamtown). Thanks for another excellent video. It is always useful to hear how you calculate doc for making a hex. Cheers from Germany.
That's a good score on the motor, I'm using a old treadmill with a 20 inch squirrel cage and it needs more power
Love the wheels n caps
Rick amazing work on the interior n trim
Great video Steve.
Thank you for sharing your time with us
We had a Kaiser air compressor at work. It needed special oil and filters . Every time you change the oil, it cost $300.
I need to still pull my front hubs and see if I can determine why my truck has wheel vibration above 70. I think something must be machined off axis.
It could be a machining error, I guess. If it was me, I would swap a wheel and tire 1st, then dig deeper if it continued. I've seen rotors be out of balance before as well and cause high speed vibration. Especially on the larger ones like on heavier trucks. I'm interested to see what you find.
@@SteveSummers I have moved wheels around before and no change even tried a different set of wheels and tires so pretty sure it is something else. Could be rotor related. Would be nice if I had one of those on vehicle balancers to see what is going on but oh well, got to start somewhere!
@bcbloc02 It probably is the hub / rotor. You will probably have to pull it and check it like you mentioned.
There is a hub step that can be put on the wheel which is convenient to use when cleaning the windshield instead of those spikes
I don't know that they'd be the same quality, but treadmills have similar DC motors.
They show up occasionally in the local bike/fitness center.
Only drawback might be the digital speed control circuitry.
CHEERS
Keep up the good work Steve. God Bless you and your family.
Usually a 180V DC motor is feed with 220V input. Looks to me that yoy have it on a 110 volt extension cord
i picked up a roll up tonneau cover to replace the fiberglass cap it came with. it's so much nicer having full access of the bed without crawling into it
I do love the look of those fiberglass covers on a show truck. Access to the bed is horrible with them and even storing the cover when not being used is a pain because of the size.
Happy Saturday Steve, Elizabeth, Cora, and Grits! Good video on the lathe and the truck. It always pleases me when I find something in the junk that works and fills a need. Good Job, God Bless!
On little lathes I run backwards and pushes the tool up and away from the work piece. My small is as ridged as a noodle. I have done some work to it and it’s better. Thanks for sharing.
If I'd heard anybody else say "I carry an infrared thermometer with me" I would have considered that a clear invitation to mock/scorn etc etc. But when you said that, I immediately thought, makes absolute sense, Steve open carries that bad boy and he uses it.
I have been keeping one in the glove box. Just nice to be able to check temps on a recent build. 🤳
It is certainly a good idea. Quick, easy an clean. Sure beats crawling around an using your hand like I had to 30 years ago.
Great dumpster find!
Johnny still needs a roof visor 🤘
Morning from oxford England 🏴
That makes two of us! Well, Wallingford but closer than Kentucky.
Steve, I totaly agree with you about the amount of grease in bearings. During my working days (I'm retired now) I've seen more bearings die of far too much grease than too little. Sometimes it was so bad, that I needed a srewdriver to get the bearing out of its grave.
Everyday is a school day.
I noticed when you were cutting the 45degree taper, the compound had been rotated clockwise... On my tiny lathe I have been rotating anticlockwise, which probably gives more tendency to chatter or snatch. I'll try it your way, as long as have clearance on the chuck. I've never had any machining tuition, so I really enjoy your stuff. (making wooden bows and arrows is where my expertise lies)
Nice dumpster score! Y'all take care.
Used to do a lot of dumpster diving till I ran out of space to put things. That old adage of the amount of stuff you have is proportional to the amount of space you have. Love watching the machining work. Wish I had access to such machines at times.
And that proportion is a constant 150%
Man you aint kidding, i love old manual machines, whether sewing machines or typewriters, old printing presses, you name it ive probably got it. I too have run out if space, so im in the market for a bigger house.
Yep, been saying no to more and more stuff! Infant, the stuff I've accumulated, I'm going to be thinning out! Basically, only got a limited time left here on earth.
Same problem ... I'm 73. @@dans_Learning_Curve
The motor drive find could be a great start to a weld positioner . Because I need one bad
Your brother does some nice interior work. I am on the look out for a shop truck myself.
Steve Summers - Dog Park Demon🤣
28:40 think about some plastic mesch covered gutters
maybe someone else said this. tightening wheel bearings.. snug up, back off. then tighten the nut HAND tight. if the cotter pin does not line up then back off until it does. i did not invent this. there was a GM campaign back in the days about this. getting technical there should be 1 to 3 thou end play
180VDC motor implies 240VAC feed. Maybe that’s why it’s anemic/doesn’t start from closer to zero on the dial? Or if it’s actually designed for 120VAC and has a doubler maybe the caps are shot.
The pot also needs some contact cleaner - it's pretty intermittent as he was adjusting it - dropping out randomly as it was adjusted. Some contact cleaner (with lube - pretty important for pots to use a cleaner that leaves a little bit of lube behind) in the pot and it'd be good as new
Thanks for another one Steve, great dumpster find there, 1hp with the drive probably a $6-800 find if you checked ebay. As a few other have mentioned may want to check input voltage on drive. I work with some smaller bodine& baldor DC 180v motors, 1/6-1/16hp and most those are 120v input to drive. Majority of 1/2-1hp DC motors ive seen use 220V input on drive
I think the only thing it needs is some contact cleaner (with lube) sprayed into the pot (speed control knob). Clearly the pot contacts have oxidized. With some contact cleaner in there, it'd be good as new
i agree, a 180v DC motor/drive should be using 240v input.
Nice to see some machining. I usually don't bother to turn the diameter down to the hex across points, because that will end up correct if it is milled to the correct A/F. I also generally side mill the hex, unless the print calls otherwise, it leaves a nice radius at the root and avoids the sharp corners.
The seats look great! I always loved the idea of making the part you need…
they don't indicate off the bearing races. but they do use them to mount the rotors onto the brake lathe. they have tapered spacers the have a slow radius on them. one of these is placed at either bearing race and sinched down with the big stud you see on brake lathes. love your channel. thanks for sharing.
A good mix of content Steve. The colour of your truck seats reminds me of a Chevrolet Citation I had. A rare bird on UK shores.
Best wishes, Dean.
Steve, if you take that speed controller apart and spray some contact cleaner with lube into the potentiometer (like deoxit or fader cleaner), it will probably work a lot better. The contacts in the pots get oxidized with time - that's why it's a little flakey as you're turning it, and maybe not quite hitting the speed you think it should be - like when you said "I'd expect 35% to be more than that". Once you clean / lube the pot, that thing will work good as new!
When milling a hex like that, I like to use the side of the endmill. This gives you a nice radius transition between the hex and the round.
Since the dc motor is 170v then, MAYBE, the unit needs a 220v supply. There is always a voltage drop in those speed controlers
Yep it is a 220-volt controller and that is why you did not see full speed on a 120-vac supply.
Yeppers, and besides dumpsters, FB free stuff always got me to go pick up great stuff, now I have to build more shelves 😁
I think if you stripped the speed control you would find a wirewound rheostat that needed a clean with some brake cleaner or electrical degreaser, and the result would be a smooth acceleration from low to high speed. Love your videos, keep it up!
Phil, UK
I have one of those...I made a pig spit out of it. Mine has a gear speed reducer on it. Loads of torque
Awesome video Steve! Maybe a tonneau cover for your 85 coming soon?? God bless you and your family 🙏
Good morning buddy 😁
I bet that motor has bushings and they are worn out, and the (commutator?) just needs a little clean and skuff with emory on a wood block, and it would run better at low current
I really appreciate the videos you make. Thank you. Signed into UA-cam specific to write this and thumbs up. :-)
Thank you buddy, I appreciate that👍
if you got a desktop cnc, something capable of doing aluminum, and a 4th axis(maybe 225$ for the lot), you could mill flattish aluminum rose nut covers, or something else. for h-ween some skulls and skeleton hand crystal ball holders... next h-ween.
I think I said this when you installed your compressor, if you pick up your air from inside the shop, it will be a lot dryer!
I remember that👍. The issue is that the intake is real noisy . I'm sure it could be worked around tho.
I was thinking the same thing. I don't have problems with milky oil in the compressor at all but my compressor is inside. I live not too far from Steve in east Tennessee, we have the same sort of humidity in the summer.
@@SteveSummers Air filter wouldhelp a lot!
I became a Steve Summer addict, back when you worked on that old giant band saw. Do tell, whatever became the eventual fate of the saw,? Would love to know.
Good evening from Greece.
My opinion it's time to change this lathe maybe something new convinied with digital screen to helping you.
Best regards from Greece
John Grizopoulos retired machinist
Have you ever mentioned that rather special leadscrew reverse that the Hendey lathes have? It appears to make thread cutting a lot less troublesome. No stopping and reversing the spindle, or (as I understand it) waiting for the right number on the threading dial)
I was thinking about that as well, I thought it was a bit of trickery with the filming. I've worked on Hendey shapers but not Hendey lathes so I wasn't aware of the leadscrew reverse facility. Regarding the plug being cut off the dumpster (skip here in the UK) find, it absolves whoever chucked it in there from any liability. Eleventh commandment for modern times :- Cover thine a55 at all times! All The Best from Somerset, England.
I have went over it in the past. It's a great feature that I use on all my shorter threads.
Well Mr Summers, I think you may just be telling fibs. I don’t think there is any way Elizabeth can get groceries into the back of Johnny Cash because she’s too small to reach past the tailgate and she’s definitely to small to reach over the sides😂. I do owe you an apology because even though I didn’t post a comment, I was one of those that thought the wheel spikes looked like something out of Mad Max and were dangerous without realising they were plastic and how easily they come off. Great score on the electric motor and controller, I’m a diehard dumpster diver and it still amazes me what gets thrown away, but hey, it’s great for people like us. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
PAINT THAT HOOD!! LOL 😊😊
Sir, you know that anyone can drive a new vehicle, not everyone can drive a classic or an antique, so feel privileged when driving a classic or an antique.
I’ll bet those tires don’t do a lot for ride comfort. 😉
👍
the variety episode - great that your shop is all together and mostly functioning - you have an impressive array of tooling capability at this point and it shows - keep cranking and do some brainstorming on late fall projects and stuff you will do over the winter - thanks for the always excellent varied content #one piece at a time
Man, I could sure think of a bunch of better things to do with that DC variable speed motor that to put on a fan. It would make it great motor for a power feed of any kind. Would also make a great conveyor controller for a drum sander or the like. They certainly aren't cheap.
Morning
When you cut the hex on the bolt it might have been a good idea to turn off the spindle before rotating the part. You have the experience and are comfortable with leaving it running, but a novice might see this, think its the way they should do it, and meet the cutter with their hand!
And while on the safety subject. It's also not a good idea to support the weight of a vehicle on just a jack alone. Especially when said jack is on a soft surface.
I changed my compressor's oil (much smaller than yours) not too long ago, and to be honest, I was sort of surprised how clean it was after probably 5 years of use.
I did quite a bit of searching for compressor oil since the "factory" oil was basically unobtainium and found that I could get a decent sized jug for the cost of the thimble full of factory oil.
I changed a basic I-R 60 gal two weeks ago and the oil looked like new after maybe 18 years, including 5 it sat. Looked like new which surprised me too
What oil did you go with?
Wow, just went and looked what a bottle of the I-R select all season goes for.
@@dans_Learning_Curve I got a quart of Powermate Px oil for my Makita.
Why not add an oil pump and centrifugal oil filter to the compressor?
The Johnny Cash needs a guitar rack.
Moly D is the absolute best cutting lubricant for stainless. Why is it so hard to find?
I have tried Anchor Lube and it’s not even close. Any suggestions on a good source? Maybe Castrol can sponsor you?
Now they don't need balancing the wheel?
Hi Steve, great episode mate. Your brother's upholstery work is absolutely top notch that back seat looks fantastic! With your brake rotor change ( we call them discs here in the UK) I know you skimmed the other one and I bet the whole hub complete with disc is not a cheap item, but did you not consider changing out both hub/ rotors at the same time? I ask because usually here it is recommended that both are changed because if both discs are not of the same thickness it is considered to have a braking imbalance which will affect the way your vehicle will stop. Cheers from the UK
I just skimmed the driver rotor and it's still got a ton of life left. In regards to rotor thickness, it shouldn't make a difference in breaking power. A thinner rotor would heat faster and possibly fade quicker than a thicker rotor. Thanks for watching bud👍
You need hearing protection when working on that lathe.
What oil do you use? I used motor oil because I had some lol and it ate my air hoses up.
Rando hd100 compressor oil.
I could never understand packing the hubs full of grease. Even the grease that's right in the bearing will move away from the rollers and not be in actual contact with them. Modern grease does not melt and flow until something like 250 degrees, and if the bearings ever get that hot, something is already failing.
With keeping that truck outside do you have any tricks with keeping mice out of vehicles you could share?
Moth balls are the only trick that I know of, but they can be a little powerfull on the nose. My vehicles are parked outside but they get driven which sort of scares the mice off. They seem to settle in a vehicle when it doesn't move often.
Like mentioned by @marcellemay7722 , moving one is about the only thing. Keeping a pet snake in it may work 😄.
What style tool post is that on your lathe? I have friend with old CNC lathe that uses these we can not find any .
Just curious but why were you feeding the carriage by hand?
I just wanted to ask the same
I'm not sure why Steve does it but I do that when I'm making short passes or I don't care about the surface finish. Plus my lathe is over 80 years old and the less wear and tear I put on the gear train the better.