FWC Battery 101 and our Amp-Hour Budget

Basic RV battery management tips that we learned when we got our Four Wheel Camper along with our Amp-Hour Budget. We go through the mechanics of our amp-hour budget and try various scenarios with the goal of helping viewers think through their battery and solar needs.
The Amp-Hour worksheet is based on our own amp readings for 12v loads in our camper, and the resulting "% capacity used" and estimated "final resting voltages" match our experience well, giving confidence in the tool.
The worksheet can be found at Sagebrushers web site at: sites.google.c...
or it can be requested by email at [e-mail].
Sorry this is so nerdy. You should probably skip it unless you are wondering about your battery and solar needs. In the next video we will cover installation of our simple, inexpensive solar setup.

[@andrewinaustintx]

Those were good charts. The key to getting by on a single battery is use electricity like someone who is tent camping with a 12 volt DC fridge and avoid the temptation to run appliances which require an AC inverter.
I now use a lithium battery, but I want to mention that my last AGM battery soldiered on for more than six years before I gave it away. Your point on ambient temperatures and lithium batteries is rock solid.
If you plan on keeping the truck and camper for at least 3 years, go for the DC to DC charge controller with a wiring upgrade to the truck's battery.

[@sagebrushers8497]

Thanks Andrew. And good comment about using electricity like someone who is tent camping, or comes from that end of it, rather than from the perspective of a new "RVer" wanting all the creature comforts of home. After all, it is called camping and we do it in a "camper".
Good suggestion on the wiring upgrade too. I hope to upgrade to the DC to DC charge controller and wiring upgrade as my next step. Have you done that? If so, how many more amps can you get out of idling with the wiring upgrade as compared to before? Thanks much.

[@andrewinaustintx]

@@sagebrushers8497 Yes - it was a leap before you look exercise - a Renogy 30 amp dual input DC to DC controller. In addition to the cost of wiring, fuse holders and circuit breakers, how to package the assembly into a small space was a challenge.
One comment on the Renogy unit - to get the full 30 amp from the alternator input, the solar panel needs to be switched off on a cloudy day. I'm fine with only 15 amps coming from my 130 amp alternator on a cloudy day, because there is less chance overheating the alternator, if for example I am driving with the headlights on.

[@sagebrushers8497]

Yea, 15 amps for 4 hours of driving should get my 105AH battery close to a full charge. Do you get closer to 30 amps when idling with the solar is off?