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Good question. We ranged from 14.5 mpg climbing the up the west slope of the Rockies to Jasper to 19.2 mpg going from Dawson City to Eagle Plains on the Dempster Highway, with an overall average of 17.5 mpg on the Dempster and probably around 16.5 to 17mpg for the whole trip. With our 23 gallon tank that is a range of 402 mi, average on the Dempster (@17.5mpg) and a range of 335 to 441 miles for the trip (@ 14.5 to 19.2 mpg). The typical speed limit on AB, BC and Yukon highways is 100kph or 62 mph so that gave us better than our usual fuel economy and it is 90kph or 56 mph on the Dempster, and we often drove a little slower due to the risk of huge potholes on some sections. It is also fairly flat so that gave us even better mileage, up to 19.2 mpg approaching Eagle Plains. It is so far between gas stations in BC, YT and NWT that you often don't want to go below half a tank before filling. In the western US we get about 16 mpg in "Normal" and 17 mpg when using the "Eco" driving mode if we keep it below 70 or 75 mph, and down to 12.5 or 13 mpg on slow, rough, mountain backcountry roads or huge hills. This is all with a Hawk Four Wheel Camper on a 2018 Ford F150 XLT Super Cab , two passengers and basic camping equipment. Sorry for the long-winded answer, but that should give you a pretty good idea. Thanks for asking!

@@lizabethjoy1883 So glad you found it helpful! Thanks for the comment!

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks @4_Science! I'm glad you appreciated my poor-man experiments. I appreciate the comment!

Thanks @4_Science! I'm glad you appreciated my poor-man experiments. I appreciate the comment!

That's great! Remember tape methods may be dangerous on rubberized/roll-on roofs! But bare or painted metal or other hard surface and you will be fine. Thanks for the comment! And good luck.

I like the idea. That should eliminate any shear forces. Thanks.

The tape is under the bracket and well protected from rain. It has upheld in rain storms on the freeway numerous times in the last 5 years and has held well. Thanks for watching.

I've had 8 panels on the roof of my rv for a couple years using this method. I also used eternabond roof tape over top of the bracket onto the roof. It's rock solid.

@@briang7870 Have you see how water cut the rocks and metal under the pressure? When you are driving your RV on the freeway during the rain try to stick out your hand out of the window (for short time) to understand the force of the rain.

@paveloleynik2743 I guess it would be peeling all the silicon around my windows and roof vents off too. I get what your saying but that's a pretty far stretch. There's no signs of the rain cutting into anything.

@@briang7870 ok

Should work great as long as both surfaces are hard and smooth, and protected from the environment with a sealant of some kind like Dichor lap sealant or Eternabond or something like that. Good luck!

Thanks much @cwein8984!

Thanks for the comment and idea. An outside table is a great idea and I think there are ways you could bolt a fold-out table to the bench overhang, maybe on the side of the camper. If I had used square tubes to support the bottom of the Jerry can holder for example there might be a way to slip table supports right into the square tubes supporting the Jerry can holder after stopping to camp? Just enough of a table to support my Weber grill maybe. (But not too close to a fuel can ;-) You got me thinking, so thanks!

Thanks much. AT Overland has a 5lb and 10lb propane tank bracket that some have attached to Four Wheel Camper jack brackets. See Wander the West FWC forum for example (www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/16548-at-overland-10-pound-propane-tank-holder-installed/). Since you can't lock a propane compartment (preventing first responders from pulling out a tank from a fire situation I assume) I'm guessing you shouldn't lock a tank on the outside but I think a lot of people put them there so it is probably ok. AT Overland might have info on legal issues when you buy their bracket or if you call them.

Well, I will just say that after 4 years and 11 months and about 76,000 miles, my VHB tape-attached solar panel is still up there. I plan to do a stress test at the 5 year anniversary of my solar install in late May/early June of this year and will post a more complete update then. Hopefully I won't rip them off by pulling too hard! Stay tuned! And thanks for the question.

Thanks, glad it helped! Enjoy your maiden voyage!

Thanks much and good luck on your build!

We like it. There is a newer system called "Fuel Keg" by Mr. Heater that has a built-in ring to open/close the bleed valve rather than an allen wrench that you have to keep track of so you might look at that too. Thanks for the comment!

No. Lincoln Logs and Tinker Toys but no Erector Set ;-( But I always wished I had one. And I loved Popular Mechanics, when old enough to pick one up here and there. Thanks so much for appreciating my tinkerings.

No, I think you can use them to blow air out, thereby sucking more airflow in through the tighter screens, assuming the critters can't fly against the flow. Or keep them shut. I mentioned this in the very end of the video. I tried, briefly, to remove the vent screens but they didn't budge and I didn't want to damage them so I just decided to use them blowing out if there was a bug problem.

That is an excellent point, @anonymous_friend. I looked back at the data to refresh my memory and found that I did do that test combining the "Typical" screen and the "Tighter" screen to simulate adding a panel of the "Tighter" screen, temporarily to the upper windows. The low fan/high fan air flows (mph) were 2.0/2.7 for the Typical Screen, 1.7/2.0 for the "Tighter" screen, and 1.7/2.0 for the combined Typical + Tighter test. (Note, these numbers may vary from the video slightly as I averaged 3 tests for the video but these are single test numbers.) So yes, like you, I would have expected a lower airflow for the combined test than the "Tighter" test and I suspect there is very slightly, just not enough to show up in the my somewhat crude measurements. That's all I can think of anyway. That might be why I didn't report it in the video. That and and for brevity, maybe. Can't remember.

I love your comment @anonymous_friend! Thanks much. I guess I've always enjoyed making measurements to solve problems. And retiring did not fix that affliction. ;-)

@@sagebrushers8497 What was your profession? I'm guessing engineer. 🙂

@anonymous_friend Yes. Chemical Engineer. So a lot of this mechanical stuff is still a challenge. And you?

@@sagebrushers8497 Sound Engineer 😄

For rolled on roofing on big RVs, you may be right, @SolarPowerMyRV. But our 60,000 miles, some at 80mph with 20mph headwinds, and our hundreds of days (including about 8 in Wyoming) say you are wrong. If you know of any VHB-Solar panel failures, I and every viewer of this video would really like to hear about it.

Thanks much!

Thank you @curve5746. I would have done sheer calculations but I'm not that kind of engineer and my mechanical engineer son was to busy to bother. ;-) Glad is was helpful.

Good Questions @hu_b. I would say no, for the most part we didn't really need 4WD. High clearance probably helps in a few boondock spots, and maybe on the road into Salmon Glacier, but I don't recall ever really needing 4wd. Maybe once or twice, as a precaution, say on river rock or a huge pothole with water that we weren't sure about, we went into 4wd, but we didn't really need it. We tried to minimize food odors in the camper, except for what was in the fridge, and only keep muesli cereal and maybe cookies in the camper, and coffee, with the rest in a bin that we always locked up in the truck cab along with our grill and all garbage at night or when away from the rig. We really don't cook in the camper unless it is heating water for Ramen or an "emergency" freeze dried meal because it is cold or stormy outside. The Grizzley just outside our camper near Haines came over there because the idiots in the car behind us were cooking or cleaning a pot and dumped dirty water outside their car when the bears got close, so that definitely drew the bears closer. Thanks for viewing and for the questions!

@@sagebrushers8497 Thanks for the detailed answers. I found your trip summary pretty eye-opening because I've always wanted to go up north and see some salmon, bald eagles, brown bears etc but never considered taking my FWC because of the distance. It really looks like there's a lot to see all along the route though so now I'm seriously considering it. How many days in total did your trip take? Did you end up getting flats even driving more slowly? I wouldn't want to carry an extra spare with the expense and added weight unless absolutely necessary.

@@hu_b We felt that our FWC was a great rig to take north because we were prepared to go nearly anywhere without too much worry about road conditions. Yes, so much to see in British Columbia and Alberta (Icefields Parkway). We spent 28 days and travelled about 6,500 miles so that averages 232 miles per day--pretty leisurely. Although probably 3 or 4 days we didn't travel at all. In addition to boondock spots, we also stayed in 1 RV park, 3 hotels and 3 established campgrounds were the location was the important thing (a couple nights with family before we got too Canada too). We got no flat tires and that is really only an increased risk on the Dempster Highway to Inuvik/Tuk I think. But you know, we saw no one changing a tire in roughly 1000 miles on that road so it is probably not that bad. Just make sure your tires are in good shape and slow down when in an area with potholes. We did not care an extra spare. If the bears, eagles and salmon are your top priority, you could cut out the Dempster Highway and save a lot of stress and a loooong gravel road. It was an adventure, but not a lot of wildlife (we could see) and it really takes about 4 - 5 days so it may not be worth it depending on what your goals are. Plenty of scenery and wildlife elsewhere. If you are not totally into getting to the Arctic Circle and Arctic ocean, I'd take the Dempster to Tombstone Park just to get a taste for the Dempster and call it good. That is the most spectacular portion of the Dempster. Or to Eagle Plains the halfway point. For salmon, bears and eagles probably Hyder, Haines and Katmai Peninsula are your best bets that I know of. (we didn't do Katmai on this trip. Hope you go sometime!

@@sagebrushers8497 I'm pretty familiar with Katmai NP... virtually that is haha. Actually it's amazing how much you can learn from a distance watching the bears via the live cams. Of course you don't get the visceral in-person experience. That's interesting you didn't have a flat or see anyone else changing a tire. Did you consider the Dalton Hwy as an alternative? I guess if your goal is to reach the Arctic Ocean the Dempster Hwy might be better.

Yes, considered the Dalton, but a long way to go without being allowed to get to the Arctic Ocean. And we had been to Alaska so this trip was more about the Yukon and NWT ;-)

Glad is was helpful. Thanks much for the comment!

Good question, @1SqueakyWheel! To be honest, I saw vendor kits that used 4 or 6 small brackets and didn't think about it. I just mimicked them. I think you have a great idea, especially if you want to get even more taped area (and more peace of mind) at minimal cost. My only hesitation in doing that would be restricting airflow too much under the panel, because hot panels are less efficient, but that can be mitigated by making sure there is a decent air space underneath the panel, say 1 to 2 inches? An aluminum angle (or square tube or channel with say 1 inch on the bottom side and 2 inches sticking up might do it. You could even lighten it and ventilate better with large holes along the length of it. But that might be too much work. Just thinking... I would still lap-seal or Eternabond both sides and ends of the track or angle pieces to prevent moisture from getting to the VHB tape. I'm no expert, but that's what I'm thinking.

Good question @deanfields7135. Yes they remain active until they are fully saturated. Doesn't matter when the pee arrives, just the total amount. And I don't think there is any degradation in the used mixture due to bacteria or anything else for at least a week or two in my experience, probably much longer. It is similar stuff to "grow animal" toys that grow to many times their original size in water and they can absorb water then be dried out over and over again. The Miracle Gro polyacrylamide product we used to use in our toilet is used in potted plants and absorbs/desorbs forever. Think of it more like a sponge that keeps absorbing until saturated.

Thanks! Good luck on your install. I'm getting close to 5 years and still looks good.

Thanks much @unitedstatesdale got two more epic trips in the hopper.

Thanks much.

Thank you.

Thank you!

You have a good point @thomasfeiller2207. My thoughts (I'm not a materials expert) are 1) the 3m VHB temperature rating is -35C (-31F) to 90C (194F) but that doesn't totally address temperature cycling issue you raise; 2) Such cycling is most damaging IMHO when moisture is present causing damaging freeze-thaw action, hence the importance of a lap sealant to isolate the VHB tape from moisture; and 3) Our solar panel installation on our camper is approaching a 5 year life. Our camper resides outside in the inland west with days over 100F and below 20F and we have travelled from Baja to the Arctic Ocean, especially desert country, and I see no degradation, visually. Time will tell. I will maybe do a pull up test on the panel at the 5 year mark. Thanks for the thoughtful comment.

Thanks for the response. I don't think we can argue with 5 years of success. It could be, however, that at some point a threshold is reached where a breakdown of the adhesive begins... 6 years? 10 years? who knows. But 5 years is a pretty good testimony to the quality of the product and process.@@sagebrushers8497

I never thought of that @petermandel2552! I have long arms and can reach our thermostat regardless the bed position. But I like the concept. Does the one you are not using have to be set higher than the one you are using so the circuit is closed?

That is a simple and way cheaper solution! I never thought of that. Did you re-mark the temperature marks?

@@sagebrushers8497 The unit I got didn't have numbers it had hash marks. I didn't get it that way on purpose but it worked out in the end. I did put a sharpie dot on the spot that's a comfortable temperature for me.

@johnallen5669 That works too!

The Portable Toilet at :06 seconds is a Playberg Portable Travel toilet, about $60US on Amazon. You can see more of it in our other "Bathroom" video here: ua-cam.com/video/n26kUky7jrk/v-deo.htmlsi=1PlNxdkIBbW52qfD We love it because it is a full sized seat and the base is wide so it doesn't tip over. As you will see in the video I just linked, our only complaint with it is that it stuck out into the doorway a little too much so we took the best part, the seat (and the collection bucket with its lid) and put them on a 5 gallon bucket that we shaped to fit the inner bucket. Now, it works perfectly for us. Note, if you decide to attach a nice seat to a 5 gallon bucket like we did, you can get full size plastic (or wood!) seats at any big box hardware store but then you have to rig up a way to fasten it. Maybe just onto a cabinet over the bucket? Whatever you do, keep in mind you need a "lid" on on the bucket that holds the bags that is under the seat because that lid condenses vapor from the warm contents and you don't want that making your seat wet all the time. Or just buy the Playberg- it is great and we used it for 3 years with no complaints.

@@sagebrushers8497 Thanks!

That is exactly right Charlevoix418. The 3M data sheet also adds that bonding "is faster at higher temperatures and slower at lower temperatures." Now that winter is here, I would not apply the 3m VHB tapes on a cold day unless you can let your rig sit in a warm garage for 1 - 3 days. It just will not bond properly on cold days. People should find the 3M Technical Data Sheet for more detail on this. Thanks for that comment!

Good question @lynnsaini. Yes that would work also. Six of the agents I tested in this video were polyacrylamides and that is the same agent used in baby diapers! However buying diapers and cutting them open is a way, way more expensive way to get the stuff. The Wenge product is the cheapest way to get this solidification agent that I could find 6 months ago, although there are at least one or two others I have heard of since this video was published that could be marginally cheaper. However, I don't believe any will be significantly cheaper. If they are polyacrylamides they should all work about the same. Thanks for your comment.

Ha! I like your temporary solution with the zapper and light, geologyjohn1! I wish I had it the night of our swarm. Thanks for the comment.

Good to hear! Note, a flexible panel is even thinner and also closer to the surface so the wind forces should be even less. Just make sure the back of the panel is very smooth to assure good adhesion (I assume it is but I don't have experience with them). Thanks for your comment!

@@sagebrushers8497 I've watched a few videos now and it seems the best way is to use a plastic cardboard or similar backing. It was suggested to me a while ago that glue or tape could work, but I was skeptical. Your research and explanation gives me confidence it will work.

@JamesBullough that is great to hear! I appreciate the comment. Our we are still loving our compact toilet mod 6 months later. Be sure to see the video after this one as our waste solidification agent works great too. We just spent a month on the road going north and it all worked great. Let me know if anything isn't clear in the video.

Thanks for the comment @fuqinazhole. Yes, I agree, 90" of VHB should be overkill! Not sure of your configuration, but I left a little space under my panel to allow a little cooling air flow on the bottom of the panel as they say cooler panels are more efficient. How much more, I don't know. And a lot of people attach non-rigid panels directly on the roof surface, so maybe its not a big deal.

@@sagebrushers8497 my plan was to vhb the length of the 90° bits to the roof and bolt the panel onto the vertical face, leaving 1-2" space underneath. I guess I could use vhb for that whole process, idk. Might not be cost effective, tho.

Thanks @johnnyzee383 for the comment. I think you are right, it is mainly wind shear and I did calculate it (at 100mph! See 4:00 to 6:30 in the video) and concluded it is well below the shear strength of the VHB tape. As some commenters have pointed out, there is also a little bit of tensile force pulling up (thanks to Bernoulli), but wind shear is dominant and both forces are well below the shear strength and tensile strength of the VHB.

@@sagebrushers8497 Thanks to your video I did the same thing with my panel...easy peasy and unless we get a hurricane its all good!

Great! Thanks for the feedback.

I am not familiar with Eternabond tape but it seems to be very popular for sealing RV roofs and for sealing solar panel brackets. Are you using a two-sided Eternabond under the brackets or panels or a single-sided Eternabond product over the top of them? I ask because it seems like the single-sided Eternabond is great for sealing, but I'm not so sure it is as strong an attachment like a two-sided VHB tape (3M or Eternabond). Like I said, I have no experience with it but if it were me, I'd put a two-sided tape under your bracket for strength then a one-sided tape to seal it from the environment. I think Eternabond also offers two-sided tapes similar to 3M VHB and probably just as good. When I see Eternabond tape over a bracket, I worry about the inside edge of the bracket where the vertical side meets the roof and is usually not sealed. That would be my hesitation with using a one-sided tape over the bracket along 3 edges to seal it from moisture. Those are just my thoughts. My tests show really very little wind force on the panels if they are not set near the front edge of the roof, so you will probably be ok if the Eternabond is as tough as it appears in the videos I've seen. But, If I used it, I think I'd still use a two-sided tape under the brackets, just to be sure. The number and length of brackets makes a difference too. Good luck with your install!

@@sagebrushers8497 we put Manus-Bond 75-Am under the brackets on the roof and then we used eternabbond tape on top of the brackets. We are going to see if it’s going to hold good. If not we will just put screws on it.

@@sagebrushers8497 Eternabond tape is pretty tough. We had to use it on the edge of our rv roof. It was very sticky and hard to come off.

@@sagebrushers8497 we are using the single sided one. I don’t know if they have any with the double sided ones.

@@jessicamathews5758 Thanks for the info. I looked at Manus Bond 75am online and it seems to be good stuff with strong adhesion to metals, painted surfaces etc. I would guess that with Eternabond covering it is plenty strong. Please let us know how it works! And thanks for sharing your approach.

No, not at all. The first sentence in this video is "We totally love everything about our Four Wheel Camper Hawk shell...well except for a few VERY minor things that are easy to fix". I am sure every camper ever sold has similar minor annoyances. For example, many camper brands use the same type of screen door without a grab bar and with the same plastic slider. That's why there are so many grab bars on the market. So these minor things are in no way "Reasons not to buy". I'm sorry you feel that way and I hope if you are looking for a camper that you find one that best suits your needs.

Thanks for the comment @ohbits! We have been on the road about 6 weeks and the polyacrylate works great. We really appreciate the pine smell from our added cup of pine pellets too, although they are a little bulkier to carry for a long trip. A tiny vial of lemongrass oil or similar odor maskant added to the Wenge may work just as well. Enjoy your travels!