On the two piece Peavey necks. My understanding is that Peavey flipped one piece of neck so that the grain went in opposite directions. This supposed to increase the stability of the neck.
The two piece Peavey neck was built so that the truss rod assembly was put into a curved slot in the center of the neck and then laminated and the fret slots were cut all at once and the frets were pressed in in a single process. This save a lot of manufacturing money and made the process very accurate. Peavey had some really innovative features on the truss rod. The threads on the rod were rolled rather than cut and that makes the it stronger than cut threads. Further, Peavey used a special truss rod wrench made of thin metal. This was by design so that the wrench would fail before a truss rod did. A regular wrench would not fit. The T40 and T60 instruments were introduced in the US Market at $350 including case Strats & Teles were about double that. The wiring on those was unique in that the tone knob would fade one humbucking coil out after about 7 on the control, producing a single coil.. I don't know if the Falcon had the other feature that turning down the volume control did not cut the highs,
Is there a difference in tone the two strat type of wood routed bodies you mentioned? I actually have both, recently purchased a Fender player ash wood body strat with S/S/S route
@@davidallen346 Probably more of a variation in tone from guitar-to-guitar than something based on the pickup cavities. I’m sure it makes some difference, but hard to quantify. I’m just impressed that they did the routing differently when they could have easily made one big route and used it for every guitar.
Hartley Peavey had a great run as an American employer and manufacturer. It seems his decision to move production overseas seemed more motivated by survival than avarice. All the others do it and it has made competition impossible. During his heyday, he was all about being MADE IN AMERICA. Superb designs on his guitars.
These old Peavey's have quite a cult following here in the States, especially the basses. Lots of neat little parts that were made in-house and can't really be replaced so hold on to every nut, screw and string tree you can find. Cheers.
@@yobentley7274 - Very cool! 😀👍 I once had an Ibanez 'Musician' MC900 bass from '79, same as Sting's during The Police's early days but fretted, and despite it sounding and feeling great, I eventually sold it after owning it for over ten years because it too was just getting too heavy for me. It was even heavier than my all-mahogany Explorer-shaped Hamer! My go-to bass at the moment is _also_ a P-Bass from the 80's 😊
Sir, longtime noodlin old lady, half-assed craftsperson who stumbled across one of your videos. I just wanted to say thank you. I love your videos. NOT because I have any want to repair my guitars, aside from minor stuff, but because I find your videos ENJOYABLE. Even your odd, occasional commentary. And, while I don't watch to learn how to repair; I have learned a lot! I'm SUPER impressed and just wanted to say thanks dude. Cannot wait to see what you'll fix next! Always a pleasure - Sandi. Boy, I've got a late sixties Stella that sure could use your magic! One can dream. You can't beat the old American beaters!
I found a Fender Squire Strat outside a church recently. It had been dumped basically. The repairs required were very minor it needed the input jack socket resoldering and a nut and washer a missing tone knob and nut for the pot and a few strings. I bought a new set of strings for it but have been playing it with the old ones as it plays well. It had a soft case which I hand washed and it is fine now and the neck had more gunk on it than the underside of a lorry but I got most of it off. I will get it 100 percent when I change the strings. There is a bit of grounding noise on it and I am.not sure what is causing that. It cancels when you lay your hand over the strings so I am guessing it is the main grounding wire. Lovely watching your work, thank you.
Ernie Ball makes a Cobalt string that is much closer in feel and tone to nickel than steels. Used to play bass in a band with two guitarists that had the nickel allergy and that was their solution
`It's just replacing a pick guard, right?` Mine today was, 'replace my bathroom faucet with this one that I bought and love,' says my wife. Spacing is different on the handles, and the base is bigger so it sets up on the sink edge. the counter top is slate, so I have to grind things. I'm waiting for the 'just replace the sink and countertop, what's the big deal?' :)
I own a Peavey Bandit 112 Teal Stripe from the early ‘90’s and you can virtually throw that amp off your roof and it’ll survive. I love it as a pedal platform amp.
Peavey's first neck carving machines were adapted from gun stock machines. Same principle, like a carving pantograph. A guide finger would follow the contours of a master blank, while routers carved multiple copies. Really forward-thinking, actually. Sort of analog CNC.
Im glad to finally see a comment about this. I had someone once tell me to use lubricated contact cleaner but could never find any that specifically mentions being lubricated. What about a computer targeted electrical contact cleaner?
14:00 Oh woe is me... Twisting heater wires on valve amps stops them emitting as much 50/60Hz hum but it does little on pickup wires. Its a good idea to replace these plastic coated wires with vintage style cloth covered wire as the cable is different internally and the leadout wires are part of the inductor windings. It just changes something and they sound way strattier. All these little things add up.
Watched a few(hundred) of your vids... I now work(maybe bodge) on my guitars. Being leftie means 40yrs means much grief and groans.... But after hundreds of hours(I mean 1000's) I'm getting close.... You are an inspiration
I hear you brother. Always having to think like a mirror and deal with pots with the wrong taper. Then there's sourcing parts. Thankfully there are more lefty parts around these days and the Internet makes it easier to find and order them. I'm in New Zealand and i order parts from the US, UK, Germany, China, Australia, wherever. If I relied on NZ retailers I'd be up ^^^^ creek without a paddle.
those 2 piece patented peavey maple necks are stable as anything on earth. I am from near Meridian, and grew up looking at and playing Peavey anything...those T-whatevers until they came out with strat clones. My main tele has a Predator maple neck from mid 90's , never needed adjusted ever. Too bad Hartley finally sold out, but life etc...I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, SIR
Back in the early 80's, toward the end of a particularly gear failure-filled gig, I lost my temper and did a Pete Townsend on my 1970 Guild S100. So for the next couple of gigs, until I could afford a new (used) guitar, I borrowed my soundman's Peavey. I think it was a T-60. My soundguy had me under constant surveillance to make sure I didn't pull another PT. I remember it as a great guitar, which I enjoyed playing. I still have the S-100, and am in the process of restoring it with all the original hardware...
I have a beautiful Peavey Millennium USA 4 string bass which has a 35" scale length. I had the nut slots filed to accommodate B E A D size strings & it is a monster. 👍
The differing screw placement is a function of its "Vintage" specs. 50s spec tend not to have the upper screw and do have the lower screw. This is how putting a pick under the upper bout of the pick guard became so popular, but it can/does cause single ply guards to deform slightly over time, which is why they eventually went to 3-ply and more screws. It may be something to keep an eye out for when ordering after market parts.
50s spec have 8 screws vs 11 on modern pickguards. It's much more than just a moved screw hole. Seems like you need to get one of each and remind yourself if what they're actually made like. Because 11 screws is more than just "it doesnt have the upper screw but has the lower screw" or whatever you said.
@@J.C... sure he wasn't being very descriptive or detailed, yes, but that comment made you seem a lil bit like a twat. He obviously knew what he was talking about and was merely trying to offer advice about the specific way the guy ruined a 50s spec strat guard. You didn't exactly spell it out in great detail either, in fact your description lacked what is needed to actually help the guy in the video. Big woop, you know the amount of screws on strat guards...
On the shielding tape: if the adhesive isn’t conductive, or one isn’t sure, just bend tabs of tape over so that the top of the overlapping tape is contacting the top of the lower tape. Viola: continuity.
Thank You Ted as always! My first New Amp was a 1979 Peavey'''... because it was the Only New amp available in rural Eastern Oregon. I still have it, and in my old age, having collected multiple, beautiful Marshall Carver. Fender... blah, blah, high quality Analog Amps in my shop. I still love my Peavey, and refuse to sell it! It "JUST" IS what I have grown to love (Huge Smile), Respect!
Those single ply Strat guards are a nightmare. I had a 50s style Strat with one, and I wanted to maintain its appearance but the constant warping was just too much of an issue.
I'm not a luthier, but electronics is something I do know a bit about. Conductive adhesive copper foil shielding tape can be sourced from big electronics supply houses, like Mouser and DigiKey. "StewMac" seems expensive and checking the big supply houses out may save a few $.
I’ve got one of those Peavey Falcons, though mine is from about 1991 so it’s got a different headstock logo. Looks like my fingerboard is one-piece. Mine’s in white, nice little Strat-style guitar.
No that's a 50s body too, 2-tone burst maple neck, but Fender have different placements for the screw holes depending on models and which country they're made in so third party manufacturers usually have their own placements too. Even if you buy from WD where they list exactly what models they're supposed to fit on they are almost always off somewhere.
@@blodpudding Also this neck has a truss rod adjustment at the headstock (looks Mexican) not a 50's style neck 11:08 quite possibly a partscaster. also you can just see a bit of the fender logo here not a 50's logo.
@@blodpudding It is probably a replacement body with a Mexican neck. most definitely not a custom shop guitar ... LOL the rubber tubing is on the wrong side of the pickups 11:44😅
@@blodpudding Not a 50's style body I have 50's style strats and have owned the Mexican road worn series and they are 50's accurate accept for the 12th marker placement I believe it's been a while since I have owned one.. but I still have my 57 stratocaster.
SO MANY people I talk to don't know anything about stretching strings! I mean, pro you-tubers and such, too. I just find it astonishing, I've done it 50 years, and I don't have all the Bigsby woes I hear about so often.
Everybody should have a nice piece of ash......mine is alder. I must have gotten lucky when I built my partscaster. Everything bolted right in. It was a really easy build and it plays very nicely.
That Peavey looks like my Predator! Mines just got the three knob layout. Pretty sweet guitar, but a bit bright. I’m gonna change the pots and it will rock!
Let's not gloss over the fact That Peavey left the USA 1-2 decades after the others. The Peavey T-40 bass was probably the "best bang for your buck" high-end instrument ever made.
I want to thank you I never really thought about the Height of the back part of the bridge on my Stratocaster but I looked my book and seen it was be set at 1/8 inch so I adjusted the height before it was close to 1/4 inch so I really appreciate your videos thanks again
That Peavey Falcon looks and sounds pretty nice. I have an old T-60. I'm not into serial nos. and stuff, but it is a really great guitar. Weight is not a problem since back and knee issues force me to play sitting down all the time. I got the guitar and a decent-sounding Crate 60-watt amp at a block sale about 25 years ago. I blew up the amp at a gig not long after, but I haven't had to do any work on the guitar other than routine setup and maintenance work. The wiring is pretty cool. It has two full-size toaster-top humbuckers, three-way selector, phase switch, and individual volumes and tones for each pickup. The really cool thing is that the tone controls also act as coil-cuts. From about 0 to 6 on the tones you are in humbucking mode, but once you get up past 6 you gradually cut out one coil until at 10 you are in full single coil mode. This guitar is, I believe, the very first model that Peavey made, and for a first effort it is really versatile, producing Les Paul and Stratocaster tones, and just about every shade in between. My only complaint is that the neck is a little narrow at the nut for my sausage fingers. I paid $175 US for the whole rig, including a molded hard case and an ancient Ibanez fuzz box in an orange metal housing. I sold the pedal to another guitarist for more than I paid for the whole rig. My only regret is that I didn't keep the pedal, but, like everyone else at the time I was doing the Tube Screamer thing. Thanks for the detailed look at Strats. I like all your videos, but I really enjoyed this one because I mostly work on solidbody guitars. Great presentation!
With each video you make, I'm increasingly glad I stumbled upon your channel. The content is not only simply amazing, it's fun and relaxing to watch. Good stuff man, good stuff.
The twisting wires to cut down on noise only works with wires that carry the same AC signal with opposite phase angles. In terms of pickups there is no phase difference between the two wires so they'll be no cut down on noise. A lot of the electric guitar wiring ethos came from amp builders and electricians incorrectly applying their knowledge to passive guitar circuits.
I relic my guitars by gigging them over many, many years. After 20+ years of gigs and accidental knocks and scrapes the guitar begins to look like a 20+ year old guitar.
@@joelonsdale Yeah, I've had my main Stratocaster since 1988 and it's done thousands of gigs so it's covered in chips and scratches and dings. And I didn't have to pay Fender Custom Shop to do it for me!
was happy to see you put the tubing on top of the pickup bobbins, instead on the bottom like whoever installed them and clipped the wires an inch and a half too short 🙂
I could really relate with your frustration on swapping out the pickguard. Usually happens when the customer brings his own parts to be installed. Had to laugh about the split shaft on the tone pot... 🤣
I've got this exact guitar, same color. Did replace the tuners last year. Don't have the Peavey knobs, came with Fender style knobs. And I did put some Bill lawrence pickups in it but I still have the originals. I love it.
You Actually do not need to solder the tape sections, you can punch them with a pointer (for instance with a line of dots), so there is contact . I learn this many years ago, before you could get easily tape with conductive glue...
I have used ordinary aluminum foil tape to shield guitars with, and done the exact same thing as you described to connect the overlapping layers. A small Phillips screwdriver works really well to make a row of divots that punch through the insulating adhesive layer and connect the overlapping foils.
The middle pickup on the Peavey sounds very pleasant. Some middle pickups are an acquired taste... Great vid. Can equate to the frustration of trying to get parts back in place. Especially when you don't want to have a screw or metal part scratch something.
Never ceases to amaze me how much some people will bodge things together rather than make a proper repair -I initially thought the plumbers tape on the pot shafts were due to the shafts being too small NOT that one of the split shafts had broken and the tape would hold it together. Not as if the guitar was a $30 cheapie!!!
I've started measuring the resistance of pots on my guitars. "Industry-standard" CTS pots have a 15% tolerance so your 250k pots could be 215 or 285, and if you've got 215 on the tone and 285 on the volume your guitar will always sound muddy.
11:43 - Sheilding paint, does it have graphite in it? If so you use it on control cavities, putting it on pickup cavities completely inhibits the magnetic field of the magnets removing all the treble and bass. Sounds great for that 70-80s rock humbucker sound but... [silent_scream]
I know that the strings you have chosen are from very well liked and trusted brand but I have had some bad experiences with D addario stuff. Even had a packed were the low E was broken inside the winding from new. I had some that rusted out real quick and a set were the ball end snapped off on the G long before coming up to pitch. I tend to look at the alternatives now.
Wow. We get a history lesson and then master luthier shit..... Best guitar channel on UA-cam.... Craftsmanship at master level.... 10gold stars from me 👍
I gigged a Peavey Foundation bass for a while, that thing sounded immense. The epitome of basic but good, shame they didn't do wider spacing on the 5 strings.
I had a 1994 Peavey USA Axelerator “Superstrat” which was a glorious guitar in looks and playability, the pickups weren’t great but the thing only cost $500 brand new.
I picked up a 1990s Peavey Firenza with P90s a couple of years ago for what was basically pocket change. It is the easiest guitar to play that I have ever owned -- the neck is magic. And the P90s sound absolutely great. I thought it had the ugliest three on a side headstock I'd ever seen (it IS pretty stubby) and I almost didn't try the guitar because of that. But everything else about the guitar is so wonderful that it gives me chills to think how close I came to passing on it without giving it a chance.
I had a Peavey Bass Guitar and amp combo in the 90's as a teenager and kept it well into the 2010's but lost it in a house burglary and never recovered. It was a solid bass for sure.
My first electric was a Peavey Falcon with a locking nut and Kahler trem and I hated it. It wasn’t until I bought a MIM Tele that I learned that playing electric guitar could be enjoyable.
Nickel allergy is only a problem when the metal is in contact with the skin for prolonged time, like with jewellery. The nickel is biologically active only in ion forms and nickel is very stable so it takes time for nickel ions to be released from metal. Many coins are minted in nickel alloy (most often with copper: cupronickel) or even pure nickel, with few allergy issues as the coins are not kept in hands for long times. Cupronickel is also used in cutlery and for many other objects. Most stainless steel also contain nickel. Is stainless steel safer than "nickel silver" regarding this issue ? IDK for the frets. (edit: Jescar states that only their EVO gold wire is nickel free) But it's the case for the strings. Stainless-steel strings are nickel free as nickel in steel render it non magnetic thus useless for electric guitar strings. It's funny as pure nickel IS magnetic. When frets tarnish it's mostly the copper that oxydise (and for a larger part dirt and residue from skin...) but in this case the cleaning was probably a good move as nickel is probably also present ... As for cleaning, washing own hands and wiping strings and fretboard after playing is also a good move. if found this : www.stringsdirect.co.uk/blog/working-around-a-nickel-allergy/ and : www.jescarguitar.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Holy crow I think I finally understand something I've been trying to understand for a while now. I have had a hard time grasping why conductive adhesive is required when using shielding tape or alum foil. If the adhesive is underneath the metal, why would it interfere with conductivity? This was my thought process. Is it because, we're assuming that you'd have to apply the metal in many different pieces, so you'd have layers on top of layers, and those would not connect without the conductive adhesive? That seems to make sense to me. But riddle me this. Lets say you use some spray glue that's non adhesive, but you apply one continuous sheet of alum foil across the back of the pickguard; in this scenario, it wouldn't matter, correct?
If glue was non-adhesive, it wouldn't be glue, lol. Yes, it wouldn't matter if it was one continuous piece. I prefer conductive paint for the pickup routes and foil for the pick guard.
@@tiki_trash Oops. I meant to say non conductive. Thanks for the reply. I prefer conductive paint as well, it just took me a while to figure that out. Therefore I have a PG with foil glued to the bottom of it.
Great video! I have a Peavey Reactor from 1994 (T-Type/Telecaster) that I bought used for $99, and I absolutely love it. They are selling for around $500 now for some reason. I don't plan on selling mine. From the first moment I picked up the guitar I knew it was a keeper.
That's a 50's 1 ply guard. I believe it also only has 9 screws instead of 11. Also a slightly different shape around the bridge because of the wider bridge spacing the 50's strats had.
On the two piece Peavey necks. My understanding is that Peavey flipped one piece of neck so that the grain went in opposite directions. This supposed to increase the stability of the neck.
You mirror any tension that way, similar to how balancing a signal works ;-)
@@boddumblues It would...........trust me.
@@Hollcall It would what?
@@boddumblues read the ???????
@@Hollcall What???????
The two piece Peavey neck was built so that the truss rod assembly was put into a curved slot in the center of the neck and then laminated and the fret slots were cut all at once and the frets were pressed in in a single process. This save a lot of manufacturing money and made the process very accurate.
Peavey had some really innovative features on the truss rod. The threads on the rod were rolled rather than cut and that makes the it stronger than cut threads. Further, Peavey used a special truss rod wrench made of thin metal. This was by design so that the wrench would fail before a truss rod did. A regular wrench would not fit.
The T40 and T60 instruments were introduced in the US Market at $350 including case Strats & Teles were about double that.
The wiring on those was unique in that the tone knob would fade one humbucking coil out after about 7 on the control, producing a single coil..
I don't know if the Falcon had the other feature that turning down the volume control did not cut the highs,
I love Ted's encyclopedic guitar knowledge, especially the history.
Yeah, it's fun and interesting to watch.
His spelling of Peavey at the beginning is painful to read though
I’m impressed that the body had an actual S/S/S routing and not just a big “swimming pool” route to make things more economical for Peavey.
Is there a difference in tone the two strat type of wood routed bodies you mentioned? I actually have both, recently purchased a Fender player ash wood body strat with S/S/S route
@@davidallen346
Probably more of a variation in tone from guitar-to-guitar than something based on the pickup cavities. I’m sure it makes some difference, but hard to quantify. I’m just impressed that they did the routing differently when they could have easily made one big route and used it for every guitar.
I think it's due to the CNC routing. It makes easier to do whatever they wanted.
Man if it weren't for Peavey I would have never been able to afford guitars or amps when I was young and poor
Just ordered a sticker my friend. Thanks. Proud to display on my bench,
Hartley Peavey had a great run as an American employer and manufacturer. It seems his decision to move production overseas seemed more motivated by survival than avarice. All the others do it and it has made competition impossible. During his heyday, he was all about being MADE IN AMERICA. Superb designs on his guitars.
His son in law took over and moved things overseas I do believe?
They were beginning to outsource before that, but yes; his son in law seems to be doing everything he can to ruin Peavey as a company.
Man, that thing kinda speaks to me! Normally not drawn to strats, but that Peavey thing is pretty sharp.
Like the cream guard on the strat better than white.
It wouldn’t be a live Skynard concert without piles of gear with that ghastly logo.
I think it’s a cool logo for a 13 year old boy! 🤓🤘
These old Peavey's have quite a cult following here in the States, especially the basses. Lots of neat little parts that were made in-house and can't really be replaced so hold on to every nut, screw and string tree you can find. Cheers.
Oh yes! Their T-40 bass in particular is an actual classic! Very heavy in weight, though 🙂
@@mightyV444 I'd suggest the Grind is far superior, having gigged with both.
@@mightyV444 I had a black T-40 in the late '70,s. A heavy axe for sure. Sold it and bought a P-Bass in 1986. Still have her.
@@richsackett3423 - Maybe it's actually because of its _disadvantages_ that the bassist community remembers the T-40 more!? 😄😉
@@yobentley7274 - Very cool! 😀👍 I once had an Ibanez 'Musician' MC900 bass from '79, same as Sting's during The Police's early days but fretted, and despite it sounding and feeling great, I eventually sold it after owning it for over ten years because it too was just getting too heavy for me. It was even heavier than my all-mahogany Explorer-shaped Hamer! My go-to bass at the moment is _also_ a P-Bass from the 80's 😊
Sir, longtime noodlin old lady, half-assed craftsperson who stumbled across one of your videos. I just wanted to say thank you. I love your videos. NOT because I have any want to repair my guitars, aside from minor stuff, but because I find your videos ENJOYABLE. Even your odd, occasional commentary. And, while I don't watch to learn how to repair; I have learned a lot! I'm SUPER impressed and just wanted to say thanks dude. Cannot wait to see what you'll fix next! Always a pleasure - Sandi. Boy, I've got a late sixties Stella that sure could use your magic! One can dream. You can't beat the old American beaters!
11:29 "...a nice piece of ash" - I wondered where that was going
I found a Fender Squire Strat outside a church recently. It had been dumped basically. The repairs required were very minor it needed the input jack socket resoldering and a nut and washer a missing tone knob and nut for the pot and a few strings. I bought a new set of strings for it but have been playing it with the old ones as it plays well. It had a soft case which I hand washed and it is fine now and the neck had more gunk on it than the underside of a lorry but I got most of it off. I will get it 100 percent when I change the strings. There is a bit of grounding noise on it and I am.not sure what is causing that. It cancels when you lay your hand over the strings so I am guessing it is the main grounding wire. Lovely watching your work, thank you.
Ernie Ball makes a Cobalt string that is much closer in feel and tone to nickel than steels. Used to play bass in a band with two guitarists that had the nickel allergy and that was their solution
`It's just replacing a pick guard, right?`
Mine today was, 'replace my bathroom faucet with this one that I bought and love,' says my wife. Spacing is different on the handles, and the base is bigger so it sets up on the sink edge. the counter top is slate, so I have to grind things. I'm waiting for the 'just replace the sink and countertop, what's the big deal?'
:)
"The body's a nice piece of ash", damn near choked on that one.
Say that again in Sean Connery’s voice…
Meet my new pedal….fuzzy galore
@@johnnyx9892 "I was tapping it all night. It screamed. I love to hit it."
Insert G string joke here…
and then some long slow pans up and down.
I own a Peavey Bandit 112 Teal Stripe from the early ‘90’s and you can virtually throw that amp off your roof and it’ll survive. I love it as a pedal platform amp.
Those control knobs look like faucet aerators!
Lol
Peavey's first neck carving machines were adapted from gun stock machines. Same principle, like a carving pantograph. A guide finger would follow the contours of a master blank, while routers carved multiple copies. Really forward-thinking, actually. Sort of analog CNC.
You really should re-lube pots after using automotive contact cleaner. Deoxit has lube in it, but the automotive stuff typically does not.
Im glad to finally see a comment about this. I had someone once tell me to use lubricated contact cleaner but could never find any that specifically mentions being lubricated.
What about a computer targeted electrical contact cleaner?
@@joeferris5086 MG Chemicals NU-TROL Control Cleaner works great. Mouser caries it.
@@joeferris5086 De-Oxit Fader Lube is a great product.
@@martinh8481 Nu-trol is great stuff. I only mentioned the overpriced brand because it seems more commonly known.
I doubt Ted needs your advice on lubing pots 🤣
14:00 Oh woe is me... Twisting heater wires on valve amps stops them emitting as much 50/60Hz hum but it does little on pickup wires. Its a good idea to replace these plastic coated wires with vintage style cloth covered wire as the cable is different internally and the leadout wires are part of the inductor windings. It just changes something and they sound way strattier. All these little things add up.
🤣
Hi very interesting, are you saying change all the wires to vintage or just the pickups? Many thanks
nonsense! for that wire resistance to actually matter, the pickup coil would have to be like 10 turns of giant solid core wire
I like the old pickguard than the new one.
Watched a few(hundred) of your vids... I now work(maybe bodge) on my guitars. Being leftie means 40yrs means much grief and groans.... But after hundreds of hours(I mean 1000's) I'm getting close.... You are an inspiration
I hear you brother. Always having to think like a mirror and deal with pots with the wrong taper. Then there's sourcing parts. Thankfully there are more lefty parts around these days and the Internet makes it easier to find and order them. I'm in New Zealand and i order parts from the US, UK, Germany, China, Australia, wherever. If I relied on NZ retailers I'd be up ^^^^ creek without a paddle.
those 2 piece patented peavey maple necks are stable as anything on earth. I am from near Meridian, and grew up looking at and playing Peavey anything...those T-whatevers until they came out with strat clones. My main tele has a Predator maple neck from mid 90's , never needed adjusted ever. Too bad Hartley finally sold out, but life etc...I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, SIR
I always liked the 50s Strats with the Ash body and two tone sunburst.
D'Addario makes flat wound Chromes that I believe are stainless steel as well. And not as bright. With the added benefit of the smooth feel of flats.
I use these on my Les Paul Std.
My first guitar was a 91 peavey tracer. I still have it and love it. Great guitar with a very fast neck for the money
Rotosound British Steels are nice nickel-free strings too.
Back in the early 80's, toward the end of a particularly gear failure-filled gig, I lost my temper and did a Pete Townsend on my 1970 Guild S100. So for the next couple of gigs, until I could afford a new (used) guitar, I borrowed my soundman's Peavey. I think it was a T-60. My soundguy had me under constant surveillance to make sure I didn't pull another PT. I remember it as a great guitar, which I enjoyed playing. I still have the S-100, and am in the process of restoring it with all the original hardware...
t-60 is such a cool gtr albeit heavy as HELL
PT relicking can be a bit much on the tuning.
What does it mean to pull a PT
@@atonofspiders the way Pete Townsend use to treat his guitars on stage.
@@atonofspiders Smash your guitar like Pete Townsend of The Who used to do...
I have a beautiful Peavey Millennium USA 4 string bass which has a 35" scale length. I had the nut slots filed to accommodate B E A D size strings & it is a monster. 👍
Nice, my favorite bass tuning
Yeah those older Peavey basses were great.
The differing screw placement is a function of its "Vintage" specs. 50s spec tend not to have the upper screw and do have the lower screw. This is how putting a pick under the upper bout of the pick guard became so popular, but it can/does cause single ply guards to deform slightly over time, which is why they eventually went to 3-ply and more screws. It may be something to keep an eye out for when ordering after market parts.
50s spec have 8 screws vs 11 on modern pickguards. It's much more than just a moved screw hole. Seems like you need to get one of each and remind yourself if what they're actually made like. Because 11 screws is more than just "it doesnt have the upper screw but has the lower screw" or whatever you said.
@@J.C... sure he wasn't being very descriptive or detailed, yes, but that comment made you seem a lil bit like a twat. He obviously knew what he was talking about and was merely trying to offer advice about the specific way the guy ruined a 50s spec strat guard. You didn't exactly spell it out in great detail either, in fact your description lacked what is needed to actually help the guy in the video. Big woop, you know the amount of screws on strat guards...
On the shielding tape: if the adhesive isn’t conductive, or one isn’t sure, just bend tabs of tape over so that the top of the overlapping tape is contacting the top of the lower tape. Viola: continuity.
Thank You Ted as always! My first New Amp was a 1979 Peavey'''... because it was the Only New amp available in rural Eastern Oregon. I still have it, and in my old age, having collected multiple, beautiful Marshall Carver. Fender... blah, blah, high quality Analog Amps in my shop. I still love my Peavey, and refuse to sell it! It "JUST" IS what I have grown to love (Huge Smile), Respect!
Always Love a nice piece of relic Ash (Huge Smile) Would Love a ZeFranc1 version of twoford.
I laughed out loud at 15:55. That's a relicing touch I wasn't expecting, lmao
Thank you for your show! I'm enjoying the knowledge 👍
Those single ply Strat guards are a nightmare. I had a 50s style Strat with one, and I wanted to maintain its appearance but the constant warping was just too much of an issue.
11:10 I would leave the guard thats already on it. It has that, smoky bar look to it and seems to match the aesthetic of the entire guitar.
I'm not a luthier, but electronics is something I do know a bit about. Conductive adhesive copper foil shielding tape can be sourced from big electronics supply houses, like Mouser and DigiKey. "StewMac" seems expensive and checking the big supply houses out may save a few $.
I do love it when you work on straty-guitars
Had a peaveyc t20 or t30 or something in the early 80s .Thanks Ted !
The dad of a good friend of mine is close friends with Hartley Peavey. He’s going to send Mr. Peavey this video. Super cool. Thanks for sharing!!
I’ve got one of those Peavey Falcons, though mine is from about 1991 so it’s got a different headstock logo. Looks like my fingerboard is one-piece. Mine’s in white, nice little Strat-style guitar.
15:11 it's a 50's style pickguard on a 60's style body the reason for the missing holes.
No that's a 50s body too, 2-tone burst maple neck, but Fender have different placements for the screw holes depending on models and which country they're made in so third party manufacturers usually have their own placements too. Even if you buy from WD where they list exactly what models they're supposed to fit on they are almost always off somewhere.
@@blodpudding Also this neck has a truss rod adjustment at the headstock (looks Mexican) not a 50's style neck 11:08 quite possibly a partscaster. also you can just see a bit of the fender logo here not a 50's logo.
@@blodpudding Also the bump out in the control cavity for the extra screw 50's strats don't have this. 12:03
@@blodpudding It is probably a replacement body with a Mexican neck. most definitely not a custom shop guitar ... LOL the rubber tubing is on the wrong side of the pickups 11:44😅
@@blodpudding Not a 50's style body I have 50's style strats and have owned the Mexican road worn series and they are 50's accurate accept for the 12th marker placement I believe it's been a while since I have owned one.. but I still have my 57 stratocaster.
Peavey sounded good with hum cancelling in pickup selector positions 2 and 4. Must be rwrp middle pickup on that
SO MANY people I talk to don't know anything about stretching strings! I mean, pro you-tubers and such, too. I just find it astonishing, I've done it 50 years, and I don't have all the Bigsby woes I hear about so often.
howdo from north east england ,love your detailed explanations of what to use,and how and why
Being from the south I've always had a soft spot for Peavey gear. I play a T-40 bass
American Peavey necks are great. The Fury Bass is my favorite. The laminate can make them more stable. I paid $40 for my Fury.
I have a Falcon Custom of this vintage and the neck is my all time favorite.
Everybody should have a nice piece of ash......mine is alder. I must have gotten lucky when I built my partscaster. Everything bolted right in. It was a really easy build and it plays very nicely.
Thanks for sharing I enjoyed this with the usual wee bit history. 👍👍🥃Respect to you mate.
Another excellent video
The red and the finish on the Peavey is pretty sharp, not a bad sounding guitar.
That Peavey looks like my Predator! Mines just got the three knob layout. Pretty sweet guitar, but a bit bright. I’m gonna change the pots and it will rock!
Let's not gloss over the fact That Peavey left the USA 1-2 decades after the others. The Peavey T-40 bass was probably the "best bang for your buck" high-end instrument ever made.
I want to thank you I never really thought about the Height of the back part of the bridge on my Stratocaster but I looked my book and seen it was be set at 1/8 inch so I adjusted the height before it was close to 1/4 inch so I really appreciate your videos thanks again
That Peavey Falcon looks and sounds pretty nice. I have an old T-60. I'm not into serial nos. and stuff, but it is a really great guitar. Weight is not a problem since back and knee issues force me to play sitting down all the time. I got the guitar and a decent-sounding Crate 60-watt amp at a block sale about 25 years ago. I blew up the amp at a gig not long after, but I haven't had to do any work on the guitar other than routine setup and maintenance work. The wiring is pretty cool. It has two full-size toaster-top humbuckers, three-way selector, phase switch, and individual volumes and tones for each pickup. The really cool thing is that the tone controls also act as coil-cuts. From about 0 to 6 on the tones you are in humbucking mode, but once you get up past 6 you gradually cut out one coil until at 10 you are in full single coil mode. This guitar is, I believe, the very first model that Peavey made, and for a first effort it is really versatile, producing Les Paul and Stratocaster tones, and just about every shade in between. My only complaint is that the neck is a little narrow at the nut for my sausage fingers. I paid $175 US for the whole rig, including a molded hard case and an ancient Ibanez fuzz box in an orange metal housing. I sold the pedal to another guitarist for more than I paid for the whole rig. My only regret is that I didn't keep the pedal, but, like everyone else at the time I was doing the Tube Screamer thing. Thanks for the detailed look at Strats. I like all your videos, but I really enjoyed this one because I mostly work on solidbody guitars. Great presentation!
thanks for the motivation. I need to service my strat. was putting it off.
With each video you make, I'm increasingly glad I stumbled upon your channel. The content is not only simply amazing, it's fun and relaxing to watch. Good stuff man, good stuff.
That headstock is gorgeous
The twisting wires to cut down on noise only works with wires that carry the same AC signal with opposite phase angles. In terms of pickups there is no phase difference between the two wires so they'll be no cut down on noise. A lot of the electric guitar wiring ethos came from amp builders and electricians incorrectly applying their knowledge to passive guitar circuits.
Yeah, but it gets you that sweet vintage tone that only parasitic capacitance can provide.
I like the peavey predator body style, it had locking tunas some years, and those fat-pole pickups on it sss/hss
I like them locking tuna sandwiches
That looks like relicing by someone who's never seen an old guitar!
Yup, the work is very amateurish. Believe it or not, but this requires skill that few people possess.
I relic my guitars by gigging them over many, many years. After 20+ years of gigs and accidental knocks and scrapes the guitar begins to look like a 20+ year old guitar.
@@joelonsdale Yeah, I've had my main Stratocaster since 1988 and it's done thousands of gigs so it's covered in chips and scratches and dings. And I didn't have to pay Fender Custom Shop to do it for me!
was happy to see you put the tubing on top of the pickup bobbins, instead on the bottom like whoever installed them and clipped the wires an inch and a half too short 🙂
LOL.
I could really relate with your frustration on swapping out the pickguard. Usually happens when the customer brings his own parts to be installed. Had to laugh about the split shaft on the tone pot... 🤣
hope you are feeling better. thank you for the great video.
Thanks for playing them for us Ted.
14:22, where there was once wiring chaos there is now order. Nice Job!
I've got this exact guitar, same color. Did replace the tuners last year. Don't have the Peavey knobs, came with Fender style knobs. And I did put some Bill lawrence pickups in it but I still have the originals. I love it.
You Actually do not need to solder the tape sections, you can punch them with a pointer (for instance with a line of dots), so there is contact . I learn this many years ago, before you could get easily tape with conductive glue...
I have used ordinary aluminum foil tape to shield guitars with, and done the exact same thing as you described to connect the overlapping layers. A small Phillips screwdriver works really well to make a row of divots that punch through the insulating adhesive layer and connect the overlapping foils.
Yeah, same here. I use the aluminium tape and just centre punch them every half inch or so.
Ted those electronics look top notch
Is it just me or does the middle pickup on the peavy sound really good.
The middle pickup on the Peavey sounds very pleasant. Some middle pickups are an acquired taste... Great vid. Can equate to the frustration of trying to get parts back in place. Especially when you don't want to have a screw or metal part scratch something.
Never ceases to amaze me how much some people will bodge things together rather than make a proper repair -I initially thought the plumbers tape on the pot shafts were due to the shafts being too small NOT that one of the split shafts had broken and the tape would hold it together. Not as if the guitar was a $30 cheapie!!!
I've started measuring the resistance of pots on my guitars. "Industry-standard" CTS pots have a 15% tolerance so your 250k pots could be 215 or 285, and if you've got 215 on the tone and 285 on the volume your guitar will always sound muddy.
Yes and those pots are soo expensive NOT....
Sometimes in a pinch you do a fix that works. Sometimes it works well enough you forget you need to do a more permanent repair. Haha
11:43 - Sheilding paint, does it have graphite in it? If so you use it on control cavities, putting it on pickup cavities completely inhibits the magnetic field of the magnets removing all the treble and bass. Sounds great for that 70-80s rock humbucker sound but... [silent_scream]
Wow!
I know that the strings you have chosen are from very well liked and trusted brand but I have had some bad experiences with D addario stuff. Even had a packed were the low E was broken inside the winding from new. I had some that rusted out real quick and a set were the ball end snapped off on the G long before coming up to pitch. I tend to look at the alternatives now.
Your vids are my absolute favorite. Please do more
Wow.
We get a history lesson and then master luthier shit..... Best guitar channel on UA-cam.... Craftsmanship at master level.... 10gold stars from me
👍
I had T60 in the mid 80s, heavy as heck but I did like it!
They weighed a ton, never enjoyed playing them.
I gigged a Peavey Foundation bass for a while, that thing sounded immense. The epitome of basic but good, shame they didn't do wider spacing on the 5 strings.
Still have a PV Dyna Bass…still plays and sounds great after many many years…!
Oh the joy I get when I hear Ted's intro music... 👈
I concur fellow lefty!! 🤘
@@smittenthekitteninmittens2679 Cheers! Smitten!! 👍 You are clearly a cultured kitty with impeccable dexterity. 😁
@@Sammywhat you are welcome 👍
I am still gigging with my Peavey bass amp that I bought in 1973.
I had a 1994 Peavey USA Axelerator “Superstrat” which was a glorious guitar in looks and playability, the pickups weren’t great but the thing only cost $500 brand new.
These guitars are superb for their price range..USA Peavey falcon for under £250 GBP... Excellent value.
I picked up a 1990s Peavey Firenza with P90s a couple of years ago for what was basically pocket change. It is the easiest guitar to play that I have ever owned -- the neck is magic. And the P90s sound absolutely great. I thought it had the ugliest three on a side headstock I'd ever seen (it IS pretty stubby) and I almost didn't try the guitar because of that. But everything else about the guitar is so wonderful that it gives me chills to think how close I came to passing on it without giving it a chance.
Peavey Firenze P90’s somehow sound better than any other P90’s. IDK what’s different about thrm, but they just sound fantastic
I own a Peavey Falcon Custom with Rosewood board and color matched headstock face to body...great guitar...oh and a factory Kahler installed trem
Sitting here drinking my cup of joe on a rainy day... Your company is welcomed.
the Peavey logo clashes hilariously with the tweed on their Classic amps.
I had a Peavey Bass Guitar and amp combo in the 90's as a teenager and kept it well into the 2010's but lost it in a house burglary and never recovered. It was a solid bass for sure.
Excellent again.
They’ve had great line of basses, with Cirrus as top end that were freaking unbelievable
Absolutely agree. I've seen them used in like every genre from heavy modern downtuned metal to jazz funk fusion and beyond lmao super versatile
Thank you for an enjoyable video. Great to hear the history and agree about the logo. But hey.
Thought it was just me that they never ever fit 🤔
My first electric was a Peavey Falcon with a locking nut and Kahler trem and I hated it. It wasn’t until I bought a MIM Tele that I learned that playing electric guitar could be enjoyable.
Nickel allergy is only a problem when the metal is in contact with the skin for prolonged time, like with jewellery. The nickel is biologically active only in ion forms and nickel is very stable so it takes time for nickel ions to be released from metal. Many coins are minted in nickel alloy (most often with copper: cupronickel) or even pure nickel, with few allergy issues as the coins are not kept in hands for long times. Cupronickel is also used in cutlery and for many other objects. Most stainless steel also contain nickel.
Is stainless steel safer than "nickel silver" regarding this issue ? IDK for the frets. (edit: Jescar states that only their EVO gold wire is nickel free) But it's the case for the strings.
Stainless-steel strings are nickel free as nickel in steel render it non magnetic thus useless for electric guitar strings. It's funny as pure nickel IS magnetic.
When frets tarnish it's mostly the copper that oxydise (and for a larger part dirt and residue from skin...) but in this case the cleaning was probably a good move as nickel is probably also present ... As for cleaning, washing own hands and wiping strings and fretboard after playing is also a good move.
if found this : www.stringsdirect.co.uk/blog/working-around-a-nickel-allergy/
and : www.jescarguitar.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Holy crow I think I finally understand something I've been trying to understand for a while now.
I have had a hard time grasping why conductive adhesive is required when using shielding tape or alum foil. If the adhesive is underneath the metal, why would it interfere with conductivity? This was my thought process. Is it because, we're assuming that you'd have to apply the metal in many different pieces, so you'd have layers on top of layers, and those would not connect without the conductive adhesive? That seems to make sense to me.
But riddle me this. Lets say you use some spray glue that's non adhesive, but you apply one continuous sheet of alum foil across the back of the pickguard; in this scenario, it wouldn't matter, correct?
If glue was non-adhesive, it wouldn't be glue, lol. Yes, it wouldn't matter if it was one continuous piece. I prefer conductive paint for the pickup routes and foil for the pick guard.
@@tiki_trash Oops. I meant to say non conductive.
Thanks for the reply. I prefer conductive paint as well, it just took me a while to figure that out. Therefore I have a PG with foil glued to the bottom of it.
love the content. hope you are on the mend.
That Fender looks more like a home-relicked Highway One model than the Road Worn.
I love those old Peavey amps!
Great video! I have a Peavey Reactor from 1994 (T-Type/Telecaster) that I bought used for $99, and I absolutely love it. They are selling for around $500 now for some reason. I don't plan on selling mine. From the first moment I picked up the guitar I knew it was a keeper.
That's a 50's 1 ply guard. I believe it also only has 9 screws instead of 11. Also a slightly different shape around the bridge because of the wider bridge spacing the 50's strats had.