Some of you suggested a great idea to add cardboard to the back of my hangboard to better match the width from my initial test- so I did just that! And I was able to match the half-crimp final benchmark max hang from the video: so 30kg extra or total of 103kg/227lbs on an 18mm edge! I recorded the lift if you want to check it out :) ua-cam.com/video/gJ4mK7pv6_M/v-deo.html
Two things that I'd recommend: 1) Get some weights off craigs list or similar. Super cheap, attach to harness with a sling. 2) Use an app with an auditory timer function instead of looking at a clock. Helps me to focus better on the pull and pull harder with better posture.
@@WyandWombat I live in an apartment and hangboard is in this period the only specific climbing training I can do. I absolutely agree about the app thing. I use a metolius 3d hangboard and I use the specific app, it gives more motivation and focus. Just upgraded a couple of days ago from "princess fiona" to " real man" level LOL
Watching this as my hangboard looks at me from the doorway, shaking it's head at my feeble efforts to train consistently on it. Really informative video, thanks for sharing. :)
Fellow member of the hangboard quaranteam here. In a pinch I would recommend getting a tote bag made for carrying textbooks, then fill it with books! The totes are generally made to hold more weight than average, and books are dense so you won't have to fill a bag with a flat of drinks. Haha Also, if you want to bring the edge size down at any point, try putting popsicle stick spacers at the back of the edges to take a couple millimeters off at a time. Another solid video, stay strong and stay healthy!
Just an FYI, watch the unloaded fingers on the half crimp. I've heard about people getting injuries in their palm when they curve in the non load bearing finger (most often the pinky) , the difference in tension between all of the tendoms basically rips the connecting tissue. I mostly do three finger drags, and when I do I tend to try and keep my pinky as straight as possible.
Watching this (with my cat) and finding this so useful and interesting. . I’m in the process of getting a hang board even my cat is finding it interesting
I wish I could mount my hangboard, but I have a mobile one which I hang off a pull-up bar. I can barely hang off it without my knees touching the ground, so adding weight is tricky. I've figured out a better way to train weighted hangs by using my mobile hangboard as a no-hang device and attaching it to a crate of bottled water. The crate fully loaded weighs 20kg on the dot and doing one-handed pulls (3 finger or 2 finger) is a really good training for me. I can warm-up using 2 hand-pulls in the same config and it's actually really nice. I just put a 4mm cordelette through the holes in the crate and make a bowline knot to tie it off. There are many ways you can make this setup work but it's cheap and works. If you want to add or subtract weight it's super simple as well.
Hangboarding is great!! I have made massive leaps in finger strength over the past year! I went from about +20kg to +53kg over 1 year (even with three finger injuries stopping progress)
I've increased my added weight on hangs from less than 0 to +40 lbs in the past couple months! It's honestly so great, and I'm aiming for +50 by the end of this month. Considering making a vid like this, yours was great and very inspiring!
Ive been doing hang board sessions a bunch more lately but i havnt been adding weights. just going to smaller ledges. I figured that was the benefit of the hang board? to still be able to grab tiiiiny things? This one program has me doing 7second hangs, rest 3sec and then repeat 2x more times as 1 hang. Ive seen tons of different info on this but it seems to be working pretty good so far. Maybe ill toy with weights as weighted pull ups have been a blessing, so idk!
Good effort Andrew. I have used a backpack for adding weight when finger-boarding, but turned it upside down and clipped on the waist belt. Have the pack hanging behind you, doesn't interfere with shoulders. Keep up the great content.
Hi Andrew, great video - this is exactly the stuff I need as a advanced climber. There is a lot of content on youtube for beginners or pros but not much vids like this. My questions is - I like to hangboard after bouldering session. Not much just for 20 minutes or so but still - is that a bad idea? Should I always do it before as a warm up or just another day? Is there no benefit in doing hangboard after bouldering? thank you
Hey! From all the coaches I have talked to it is best to hangboard before a session or on its own. I think of it like powerlifting where you're trying to hit the max effort to engage the muscles because this is where you'll get the best strength gains and growth. If you're already tired, then you're more likely to do less weight and end up making the exercise more about endurance instead of strength. Or your form could be worse from being tired which can lead to poor performance (or injury). One thing Dave stressed about the exercise is the need to try hard. Again like powerlifting, it's best to find your 1-rep-max then train at that level (when possible and in good form) or anywhere from 80-99% of that. If you have a boulder session then hangboard but can't reach 80% of your 1-rep-max then the exercise is less effective. One of the hardest parts about the training was that my climbing sessions were worse because I was already tired from hangboarding, but it's the tradeoff from making faster finger strength gains. Hope that helps!
Hi! I got very similar results :D started at half of march following lattice Crimpd app trainings, retested yesterday. From 20 kg at 20 mm rung to 25 kg. (my normal weight 78 kg). I hang usually two session in week plus one climb session on rocks outside. I was realy suprised!
A world without climbing is a boring world! To make your pre- and post- test a little more accurate, jam a piece or 2 of cardboard in the back of your board to reduce the edge size. Solid video as always!
actually they are pretty expensive I had to add nearly 60kg to my last max hang assessment in my gym and getting 60kg for hometraining was pretty expensive. (Around 2€ per kg in kettlebell or weighted plates) i instead decided to use smaller edges and went from 18 mm on the BM1K (the exact same Andrew uses) to 10mm Beastmaker Micros and way less weight. edit: Awesome Video btw :D
@@Niko-my8rd Depends on where you live, i guess. I pay for new plates less than 1€ per KG and you can get them "used" (they're only iron plates, so it doesn't really matter) even cheaper. I pay way more for climbing shoes, harness, a hangboard, gym membership etc. Plus you can do more than just weighted hangs with those weights, so it's a good long term investment.
I think those edges are significantly different enough that it's not a great comparison. 2-5mm and a different angle is easily enough to make up a 5-10% difference in hang weight. I know personally I can hang with 30% more added weight on my 23mm edge than my 17mm edge.
I was going to say this too, edge size and rounding makes all the difference. The bm1000 is 18 mm and quite rounded. I personally went from +28kg on the 20 mm tension board edge to +22 kg on the bm1000. Best to benchmark effectiveness on the same edge. I’m not sure cardboard would cut it either.
When dropping the index or pinky regularly, aren't the middle and ring finger getting much more training (because they are involved all the time)? I guess it is not a problem because everyone is doing it but I wonder if someone could explain why it isn't a problem?
My sets will vary depending on how I feel so I didn't give an exact number. If I can't hold at least 80% of my max hang weight then I know my strength session is over. Aim for quality hangs and stop when the performance output drops off.
@@AndrewMacFarlane Also mainly a boulderer myself but I would highly recommend working on some Anaerobic Capacity (repeaters) alongside the max hangs to build more muscle when you start to plateau. Have you seen Will Anglin's comprehensive write-up on his experiences with hangboarding?
@@RFrecka I agree. Andrew definitely learn about periodization and modulating your intensities and volume in your climbing and hangboard training. It will long ways.
This is a great video about the durability of Ikea bags, did they sponsor this one? 😂 love the content Andrew, Im at the end of a hangboand cycle so looking forward to testing my weighted hanging strength this week to see the gains :-) Keep crushing 💪
Just did a hang board session today of 2 15mm crimps and after it my middle finger was locked in a 90 degree angle for a few seconds don't know what it was
Adam Akamine Do not hang for 30 seconds? How come? Yes you are probably not going to recruit max strength but injury? If you can hold on for 30 seconds or greater, how does that increase injury? Time wasted sure but increased injury, I think not.
How often would you recommend hangboarding a week when you are not climbing and how did you train? Just using isolating fingers or going for a smaller hold?? Btw I really love your videos 💪🏻💪🏻
At the moment I'm doing 3 sessions a week in lockdown. But it really depends on the level of experience and recovery. The holds don't need to be the smallest (Dave MacLeod also mainly uses the 20mm edge... with weight or one hand ha), but find one that works and aim for the 7-10sec max hang. Good luck!
Good video as usual Andrew. You say between 7 and 10 seconds. But I guess you are using more or less the same time when you want to assess your progress right (e.g. always 7 or always 8)? How often do you do the hangs with the max weight for 7 - 10 seconds (with the rest in between)? Thanks again for sharing. And before I forget it: Happy Easter ;)
Happy Easter! Yes, whenever training I aim for 7-10 seconds, but when testing my 1-rep-max it's gonna be 7 because I simply can't hold it any longer. When training with weight I aim for at minimum 80% of my 1-rep-max but something closer to 90% is more ideal. If I can't hold 80% then I know I'm too tired. Good luck👊🏻
If you look on the Lattice site they are a god resource. General consensus is 7-10 seconds hang with 2-3 minutes of rest times six reps. Thats it. You generally want to end feeling ok.
Ya, exactly what Nick said. My sets weren't always the same because it depended on how I was feeling. Go for quality and high performance (try hard in control).
@@msilv8335 It was 18mm. I couldn't find specs on the Beastmaker website so I measured the board I used and also compared the measurement to the Transgression board which was conveniently next to it at the gym. Maybe you're thinking of the 2000 series board?
It's not necessary, but I guess you can speed up progression immensly. I was able to get to 8b/5.13d (routes) without any hangboarding in 8 years climbing (first 4 years only occasionally, last 4 years more regularly and ambitious). I would really like to know where I would be now had I included some proper systematic hangboard training in past years.
@@masterpropper2485 that's true. My fingers are already plenty strong but I just started doing one arm hangs on 20mm because my shoulders are weak and I have progressed a bit and can use my shoulders rather than just relying on finger strength lol
haven’t finished the video, but im expecting the ending to go like this “i was just starting to lose hope and then on day 31 something amazing happened” *does 7 one arm pull ups on 8mm edge*
Some of you suggested a great idea to add cardboard to the back of my hangboard to better match the width from my initial test- so I did just that! And I was able to match the half-crimp final benchmark max hang from the video: so 30kg extra or total of 103kg/227lbs on an 18mm edge!
I recorded the lift if you want to check it out :) ua-cam.com/video/gJ4mK7pv6_M/v-deo.html
Two things that I'd recommend: 1) Get some weights off craigs list or similar. Super cheap, attach to harness with a sling. 2) Use an app with an auditory timer function instead of looking at a clock. Helps me to focus better on the pull and pull harder with better posture.
@@WyandWombat I live in an apartment and hangboard is in this period the only specific climbing training I can do. I absolutely agree about the app thing. I use a metolius 3d hangboard and I use the specific app, it gives more motivation and focus. Just upgraded a couple of days ago from "princess fiona" to " real man" level LOL
why do i see a square and a triangle talking to each other? :D
Watching this as my hangboard looks at me from the doorway, shaking it's head at my feeble efforts to train consistently on it. Really informative video, thanks for sharing. :)
Relatable
ha ya, I started climbing so I could avoid counting reps all-day... the struggle. Great vids btw!
@@AndrewMacFarlane Thanks Andrew! :)
early gains tend to be due to increased muscle recruition, so i would really like a follow up in 2 or 3 month to see if the gains hold up.
does this spike also present itself with consistent every-other-day projecting at the gym?
Fellow member of the hangboard quaranteam here. In a pinch I would recommend getting a tote bag made for carrying textbooks, then fill it with books! The totes are generally made to hold more weight than average, and books are dense so you won't have to fill a bag with a flat of drinks. Haha
Also, if you want to bring the edge size down at any point, try putting popsicle stick spacers at the back of the edges to take a couple millimeters off at a time. Another solid video, stay strong and stay healthy!
Just an FYI, watch the unloaded fingers on the half crimp. I've heard about people getting injuries in their palm when they curve in the non load bearing finger (most often the pinky) , the difference in tension between all of the tendoms basically rips the connecting tissue. I mostly do three finger drags, and when I do I tend to try and keep my pinky as straight as possible.
Watching this (with my cat) and finding this so useful and interesting. . I’m in the process of getting a hang board even my cat is finding it interesting
Getting the attention of a cat is one of the best compliments I could get 🙏
Andrew MacFarlane haha 😂 he clearly has good taste but seriously I found this video really useful.
I wish I could mount my hangboard, but I have a mobile one which I hang off a pull-up bar. I can barely hang off it without my knees touching the ground, so adding weight is tricky. I've figured out a better way to train weighted hangs by using my mobile hangboard as a no-hang device and attaching it to a crate of bottled water. The crate fully loaded weighs 20kg on the dot and doing one-handed pulls (3 finger or 2 finger) is a really good training for me. I can warm-up using 2 hand-pulls in the same config and it's actually really nice. I just put a 4mm cordelette through the holes in the crate and make a bowline knot to tie it off. There are many ways you can make this setup work but it's cheap and works. If you want to add or subtract weight it's super simple as well.
>every top level climber does...
shots fired at Louis
And a bunch others :)
If you have insane stamina and can be at the gym almost every day, there's WAAAAAAY less (none?) need for fingerboarding.
young Sharma be like: am I a joke to you?
Hangboarding is great!! I have made massive leaps in finger strength over the past year! I went from about +20kg to +53kg over 1 year (even with three finger injuries stopping progress)
I've increased my added weight on hangs from less than 0 to +40 lbs in the past couple months! It's honestly so great, and I'm aiming for +50 by the end of this month. Considering making a vid like this, yours was great and very inspiring!
Everyone else started this same training as soon as lockdown started.
Thanks for the great content!
no. not everyone.
I miss climbing... I am now bored of the bedroom traverse (v2). I've been hangboarding a lot. as well.
Thanks for the video, I enjoyed it.
The table traverse with a chair as an obstacle could be a V4 !
Respect for giving Dave a good shout out and plug!
Ive been doing hang board sessions a bunch more lately but i havnt been adding weights. just going to smaller ledges. I figured that was the benefit of the hang board? to still be able to grab tiiiiny things? This one program has me doing 7second hangs, rest 3sec and then repeat 2x more times as 1 hang. Ive seen tons of different info on this but it seems to be working pretty good so far. Maybe ill toy with weights as weighted pull ups have been a blessing, so idk!
Good effort Andrew. I have used a backpack for adding weight when finger-boarding, but turned it upside down and clipped on the waist belt. Have the pack hanging behind you, doesn't interfere with shoulders. Keep up the great content.
Hi Andrew, great video - this is exactly the stuff I need as a advanced climber. There is a lot of content on youtube for beginners or pros but not much vids like this. My questions is - I like to hangboard after bouldering session. Not much just for 20 minutes or so but still - is that a bad idea? Should I always do it before as a warm up or just another day? Is there no benefit in doing hangboard after bouldering? thank you
Hey! From all the coaches I have talked to it is best to hangboard before a session or on its own. I think of it like powerlifting where you're trying to hit the max effort to engage the muscles because this is where you'll get the best strength gains and growth. If you're already tired, then you're more likely to do less weight and end up making the exercise more about endurance instead of strength. Or your form could be worse from being tired which can lead to poor performance (or injury).
One thing Dave stressed about the exercise is the need to try hard. Again like powerlifting, it's best to find your 1-rep-max then train at that level (when possible and in good form) or anywhere from 80-99% of that. If you have a boulder session then hangboard but can't reach 80% of your 1-rep-max then the exercise is less effective. One of the hardest parts about the training was that my climbing sessions were worse because I was already tired from hangboarding, but it's the tradeoff from making faster finger strength gains. Hope that helps!
Congrats
You're starting HC metric is the exact same as mine haha (133%). Let's see how I do this next month
Hi! I got very similar results :D started at half of march following lattice Crimpd app trainings, retested yesterday. From 20 kg at 20 mm rung to 25 kg. (my normal weight 78 kg). I hang usually two session in week plus one climb session on rocks outside. I was realy suprised!
I just ordered a Beastmaker 2000 since the lockdown is going to last pretty long this winter.
A world without climbing is a boring world! To make your pre- and post- test a little more accurate, jam a piece or 2 of cardboard in the back of your board to reduce the edge size. Solid video as always!
Where were you 2-weeks ago when I was filming this?? Good idea.
Hey Andrew, you got the harness and the rope, plates aren't that expensive. 😉
actually they are pretty expensive
I had to add nearly 60kg to my last max hang assessment in my gym and getting 60kg for hometraining was pretty expensive. (Around 2€ per kg in kettlebell or weighted plates)
i instead decided to use smaller edges and went from 18 mm on the BM1K (the exact same Andrew uses) to 10mm Beastmaker Micros and way less weight.
edit: Awesome Video btw :D
@@Niko-my8rd Depends on where you live, i guess. I pay for new plates less than 1€ per KG and you can get them "used" (they're only iron plates, so it doesn't really matter) even cheaper. I pay way more for climbing shoes, harness, a hangboard, gym membership etc. Plus you can do more than just weighted hangs with those weights, so it's a good long term investment.
I think those edges are significantly different enough that it's not a great comparison. 2-5mm and a different angle is easily enough to make up a 5-10% difference in hang weight. I know personally I can hang with 30% more added weight on my 23mm edge than my 17mm edge.
but he was making the best of what he had given the lockdown, and its motivational for his subs to see!
I agree - re-testing on the Edge next month would make a good comparison - for me the difference between BM1000 20mm and Lattice 20mm edge is huge
I was going to say this too, edge size and rounding makes all the difference. The bm1000 is 18 mm and quite rounded.
I personally went from +28kg on the 20 mm tension board edge to +22 kg on the bm1000.
Best to benchmark effectiveness on the same edge. I’m not sure cardboard would cut it either.
When dropping the index or pinky regularly, aren't the middle and ring finger getting much more training (because they are involved all the time)? I guess it is not a problem because everyone is doing it but I wonder if someone could explain why it isn't a problem?
Did I miss it or you said it ? how many reps/sets did you ussually did?
My sets will vary depending on how I feel so I didn't give an exact number. If I can't hold at least 80% of my max hang weight then I know my strength session is over. Aim for quality hangs and stop when the performance output drops off.
Door frames work great
Were you only training max hangs every session? Or were you also using the hangboard for power endurance/endurance as well?
I was going for max because I'm mainly training for bouldering.
@@AndrewMacFarlane Also mainly a boulderer myself but I would highly recommend working on some Anaerobic Capacity (repeaters) alongside the max hangs to build more muscle when you start to plateau. Have you seen Will Anglin's comprehensive write-up on his experiences with hangboarding?
@@RFrecka I agree. Andrew definitely learn about periodization and modulating your intensities and volume in your climbing and hangboard training. It will long ways.
This video inspired me to start training g on a hang board
This is a great video about the durability of Ikea bags, did they sponsor this one? 😂 love the content Andrew, Im at the end of a hangboand cycle so looking forward to testing my weighted hanging strength this week to see the gains :-) Keep crushing 💪
lol I'll hit up ikea to sponsor the next one- happy training!
Just fyi: I also use bags with stuff in them. You can split the weight into several different bags to prevent the bags from breaking
Just did a hang board session today of 2 15mm crimps and after it my middle finger was locked in a 90 degree angle for a few seconds don't know what it was
Also could it be because I am 16
Did you experience any pain? I once tried hanging for longer than 30 seconds and I could barely close my hand after. Never hang more than 10 seconds
Adam Akamine Do not hang for 30 seconds? How come? Yes you are probably not going to recruit max strength but injury? If you can hold on for 30 seconds or greater, how does that increase injury? Time wasted sure but increased injury, I think not.
@@k3kkus0 Intensity matters not time
@@gainwithbrain5395 yes I agree. add weight instead of time to get stronger
You stole Dave's jaw 😂
great vid btw
How often would you recommend hangboarding a week when you are not climbing and how did you train? Just using isolating fingers or going for a smaller hold??
Btw I really love your videos 💪🏻💪🏻
At the moment I'm doing 3 sessions a week in lockdown. But it really depends on the level of experience and recovery. The holds don't need to be the smallest (Dave MacLeod also mainly uses the 20mm edge... with weight or one hand ha), but find one that works and aim for the 7-10sec max hang. Good luck!
Thank you😊
Good video as usual Andrew. You say between 7 and 10 seconds. But I guess you are using more or less the same time when you want to assess your progress right (e.g. always 7 or always 8)? How often do you do the hangs with the max weight for 7 - 10 seconds (with the rest in between)? Thanks again for sharing.
And before I forget it: Happy Easter ;)
Happy Easter! Yes, whenever training I aim for 7-10 seconds, but when testing my 1-rep-max it's gonna be 7 because I simply can't hold it any longer. When training with weight I aim for at minimum 80% of my 1-rep-max but something closer to 90% is more ideal. If I can't hold 80% then I know I'm too tired. Good luck👊🏻
nice dude! have you done something simular with max pull-up so far? i was at 38kg 3 weeks before, lets see where i am when this sh*t is over :')
I haven't tried yet! But was thinking about it... hopefully we don't pull the board off the wall ha
How many sets of hangs?
If you look on the Lattice site they are a god resource. General consensus is 7-10 seconds hang with 2-3 minutes of rest times six reps. Thats it. You generally want to end feeling ok.
Ya, exactly what Nick said. My sets weren't always the same because it depended on how I was feeling. Go for quality and high performance (try hard in control).
That beastmaker hold is 15mm FYI.
How many sets would you recommend?
@@msilv8335 It was 18mm. I couldn't find specs on the Beastmaker website so I measured the board I used and also compared the measurement to the Transgression board which was conveniently next to it at the gym. Maybe you're thinking of the 2000 series board?
I was able to get to V9s without the hangboard. I don't think it's really necessary. Although it's good once in a while I guess.
It's not necessary, but I guess you can speed up progression immensly.
I was able to get to 8b/5.13d (routes) without any hangboarding in 8 years climbing (first 4 years only occasionally, last 4 years more regularly and ambitious). I would really like to know where I would be now had I included some proper systematic hangboard training in past years.
@@masterpropper2485 that's true. My fingers are already plenty strong but I just started doing one arm hangs on 20mm because my shoulders are weak and I have progressed a bit and can use my shoulders rather than just relying on finger strength lol
I dont have a hangboard ?
Get one
Then the gyms closed.......... :(
Just buy plates, they are cheap.
Try to add some weight to you hangboarding - when going for an increase in max strength you should train at high intensity as well
dayyum, you climbed v9 with such a weak half crimp, impressive.
haven’t finished the video, but im expecting the ending to go like this
“i was just starting to lose hope and then on day 31 something amazing happened”
*does 7 one arm pull ups on 8mm edge*
First :D
Second :(
Can't believe this was the comment that I got a heart on! Your videos are so inspiring and are helping me to keep working out while in isolation!
@@nioknight2700 nice! Ya, isolation can be a struggle- want to climb so badly!