BEVERLY METAL SHEAR RESTORATION Pt 1
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- auction results PETEBAY 10
PRICES REALIZED - LOTS 200 - 238
LOT 200 - STARRETT 12” LEVEL $ 313.13
LOT 201 - TWO BRASS DRIP OILERS $ 47.48
LOT 202 - CARRIAGE STOP FOR LOGAN LATHE $ 51.98
LOT 203 - THREE SMALL MODEL STEAM ENGINES NO BIDS
LOT 204 - ASSORTED MACHINISTS TOOLS $ 59.78
LOT 205 - GROUP OF SMALL PLIERS AND PUNCHES $ 42.00
LOT 206 - GROUP OF PLIERS $ 57.00
LOT 207 - JENSEN TOY STEAM ENGINE NO BIDS
LOT 208 - BROWN & SHARPE DIAL CALIPER $101.21
LOT 209 - GROUP OF STANLEY PLANE PARTS NO BIDS
LOT 210 - MITUTOYO MICROMETER (LARGE) $150.00
LOT 211 - PROTO GEAR PULLER $ 94.35
LOT 212 - MITUTOYO DIGITAL CALIPER $121.00
LOT 213 - LARGE GROUP OF BUSS FUSES $ 42.54
LOT 214 - ASSORTMENT OF FASTENERS (Dorman) $ 61.57
LOT 215 - MAGAFLUX KIT $ 27.07
LOT 216 - ASSORTMENT OF TINY SCREWS $ 76.00
LOT 217 - DISPLAY FRAME OF ARROWHEADS $ 48.01
LOT 218 - GROUP OF MACHINISTS BOOKS $ 67.96
LOT 219 - ASSORTED DRILL BITS $ 120.22
LOT 220 - GROUP OF CYLINDER HONES $ 101.47
LOT 221 - ASSORTED TOOLS INCLUDING FILES $ 75.00
LOT 222 - GROUP OF GITS OILERS (Zerks) $ 26.90
LOT 223 - GROUP OF TAPS AND DIES $ 130.35
LOT 224 - STACK OF POPULAR MECHANICS (1915) $ 15.15
LOT 225 - GROUP OF MACHINISTS TOOLS $ 50.00
LOT 226 - GROUP OF GUN CATALOGS $ 61.63
LOT 227 - STACK OF WISCONSIN ENGINE MANUALS $ 35.05
LOT 228 - ESSEX ENGINE $600 MINIMUM NO BIDS
A 2 part video on restoring s BEVERLY SHEAR.
Thanks to Mike Reisner for donating the shear!!
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#restoringrustytool#rustremoval#electrolysis#evaporust#mrpete#machineshop#machinist
My Grandfather had one of these shears. He had it bolted to a 2"x8" plank about 30" long. He would cut the larger pieces on the floor Then lift the shear up and cut the smaller parts to size.. Unlike the school districts, he tried to multitask a lot of his tools. Now I am the very proud owner of this shear and yes it is still bolted to the plank. I can cut paper with it. When I'm working in the shop I give thanks to you and Grandpa a lot. Now I am the Grandpa. And yes they know who Grandpa was and who Mr. Pete222 is Thank you. I remember my Grandfather teaching me how to weld with a bare electrode. He would strike it to get the rod hot the dip it in flux. Life is much easier now.
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Nice start to the restoration Mrpete, thanks for the links , see you in part two😁😁👍👍👍
This guy sharpens the blades:
Beverly Shear Blades Sharpened. Remove blades
from shear and ship to Clay Spencer, 73 Penniston
Pvt. Drive, Somerville, AL 35670 $41 includes return
postage, additional cost for deep notches or blades
previously sharpened at angle.
He did a great job on my #3.
Thanks
Thank you Mr Pete. It doesn't look like that thing has seen a lot of love, I'm glad it's getting some now. Have a great day.
Thank you so much, im following you from Sweden 🇸🇪
You're amazing man 👍👌
Thanks
Another good vid from mr Pete, always cool to learn more about metal work, appreciate you, and your metal wisdom
Thank you for the video. I have never previously seen a throatless shear used. It wasn't obvious to me how useful it is. Your demonstration makes me want one.
I pulled into the parking lot of our local family hardware (same family in business in same location for over 125 years) and a very old stomp shear was in the lot with a sign for $50. I didn't examine the shear closely, but I suspect that it was 100+ years old, just by the shape of the castings. An owner brother walked out at that moment and I told him that I would buy it. He commented that he only just listed it on FB marketplace. I grabbed a $50 and handed it to him. He asked for the balance. That was when the crudely made paper price sign was pushed in place and I saw the next digit ($750). I don't know if he got his asking price, but it didn't sell very fast, and I don't own it!
The store owners have been my dear friends for decades. My price shock embarrassment did not harm our friendship. I shop locally at their store now that I am retired. When I was as employed I drove past numerous wholesalers and big box stores on my daily commute. Most of those stores now add a minimum of 15 additional miles of one way driving. My friends get more of my $ for their inflated hardware store prices, because of the ease of location and their pretty extensive inventory. They also push most of their extensive stove business contract installation to my son's business, and one of my grandsons could easily make a career managing their store when the brothers retire. The brothers are 4th generation store owners and still offer a substantial amount of sheet in metal services. At one time they did extensive sheet metal work, fabricating things like archetectural accents and very large stock tanks.
That was a good story about the price sign.
I remember that visit... and really enjoy seeing the preservation/restoration of fine older tools.
I have that same Black & Decker grinder had it since 1984 [made in USA] use it frequently....Great project Mr Pete!
Pete, you can straighten that handle. Put it in a vise horizontally with the bend at edge of vise. Take the oxy-acetylene torch and heat it . When it is hot all the way around give the end of handle a hard yank or put a small pipe or rod in handle to assist. That should take out the bend. I worked for an old blacksmith and we did this all the time to straighten bent tubing and round stock. AL B.
Thanks for that tip.
Boy, if I had a nickel for every hour I spent in the sheet metal shop working a beverly Shear.....Looking forward to the other part of the series! BTW, I love the use of the speed wrench. Thanks Mr. Pete!
Great video. I've bought the ingredients to try this de-rusting method. By the time I get around to it, my wife has used up the Arm & Hammer. I worked in a shop back in the early '80's that still used Beverly's for some operations. Can't wait for part 2.
Absolutely amazing shears! I have one in my shop as well! Great project!
Very glad you ground that weld off and removed that plat, it was hard to look at...
Haha, last night I restored a paper shear that I use for thin stainless and stuff, aka sanded rust off the blade and lubed it up with this kind of drill wax. Not the right tool for the job but its alot nicer then snips. Wooden tool meant for arts and crafts but it works fine for making shapes to patch holes in chassis. They run 'quiet' when you get the rust off. But this thing is light duty, painted blades, etc.
Another great video. I bought a new B2 shear from Mittler Bros a few months back and the casting on the main body is pretty rough also. I noticed when you had the handle all the way up, the back end of the top blade clears all the way back to the back end of the bottom blade. On my new shear the back end of the top blade meets up 1 3/8" of the back end of the bottom blade. That means the last 1 3/8" of the back end of the top and bottom blades are unusable. It also makes it harder to turn the metal in a clockwise direction to make a curved cut to the right. I called the new company and talked to one on the techs or engineers and was told they had made some kind of change to the newer models. He told me I could grind a little off of the last tooth on the handle to let the top blade go up a little bit more, which I did and it only gave me another 1/8" of usuable blade length. If I would have known all that, I probably would have just bought a used B2 off of E-bay. But the people selling used ones on E-bay seem to think they are made of gold with some of the high prices they have on them. All in all it still is a pretty nice metal cutter, I just wish I could use all of the blade lengths. I enjoyed the video. You will have a nice tool when you are finished. Dan
I picked one up at a garage sale 20 years ago. I never restored it, sharpened the blades on the side of a fine grinding wheel, (yeah I know that’s a No, no) didn’t have set screws so I just used bolts, It works great and it’s one of my favorite tools. Nothing against restoration just never got to it and it works so it’s low on the to do list.
I have a B-3 I got from a farm in a ball of rust, did the same,derusted and sent the blades to Beaverly several years ago,very nice people, they told me mine was one of the first made as the blades were the original.angles but still had the sharpening fixture. I also asked if I could get a new plate,they gave me the plate the screw nails,I think they called them and the drill bit for free as I paid for the blade sharpening. I liked the fact they had no website no computers, I sent the blades with a check,and got them back with a hand written receipt. I think the B-2 is the best size to have for sheet metal work. I have the 3 just because I got it cheap,and now a prize possession in my shop.
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I thought I was about the only one left using speed wrenches. Neat to see. I also appreciate showing the anode cleanup after. Never seen that before. :-) I believe used Evapo-Rust takes longer than fresh.
Looking forward!
I use Evaporate for some items but prefer my Harbor Freight cabinet blaster w/glass beads,much faster and better surface finish for paint,but you have to work with what you have,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
Great video! That weld looks better than mine though
I would heat the pieces red hot and dip them in old car oil, it removes the rust and makes it black and rust proof.
I’ve found that white vinegar at about $2 gallon works as good as anything. Cover parts in a plastic tub for 2 o 3 days and remove and rinse with water to stop the action. Scrub parts in hot soapy water to remove the black stuff, let dry and it’s ready for painting. The slight surface pitting is excellent for paint adhesion.
Wow, I learned a lot about what to look for in casting quality. I have a problem with seeing things through rose colored glasses.
I have the same Beverly B-2 that I've had for over 30 years and it still cuts perfectly. I have a Beverly Junior but I have misplaced it.
Great video Mr. Pete! A generous gift too, those old shears sell for quite a bit out here still.
Bubba sure is hard on stuff, he even shot the jukebox.
Another lovely project... looking forward to see it work properly :)
(Scraping Anodes) So that's how they make grape nuts cereal lol. Looking forward to se this looking new.
½ cup senior McDonald's coffee! Oh man, that's a measuring convention I can get into. Thanks again Mr. Pete. In the market for a Beverly shear myself oddly at the moment. Have an old Niagara bar folder to swap.
Nice project Lyle.. I've had one of those on want list for quite some time. There way over priced on the west coast.
Enjoyed! Thanks!
28 gauge galv. A good many of these were bolted to the back bumpers of the duct crew trucks of your local heating company.
The senior cup measurement is had to find for some of us Mr. Pete!
It's about that much.
You need to adjust it using the "fair amount" measurement. I find this method to be much more precise than the senior coffee cup.
I recently repainted several old pipe wrenches.I used white vinegar with some Evaporust. Worked ok for me. AL B.
thank you Mr Pete
In an era long gone I am told in my younger years that is a process known as rough cast. (not crude) Requires a competent foundry to produce these in large numbers at a minimised expense. The imperfections and absence of fettling and finishing does not hide the fact the castings are in fact particularly complexed compound forms, and must fit to a high degree of accuracy. Of course you may wonder about the course sand used? Or is that a result of the lost wax or some other feature of the process preferred? I cannot elaborate.
that shear design so simple and so effective
These are great tools and very valuable if you do any sheet metal work in your shop.
Once when removing the hardened shears on mine i dropped one and broke it in two I couldn’t source a replacement so i welded it back together and cuts again but not ideal wish I could find the wear parts to buy.
Thanks Mr. Pete👍
Thank you for sharing. YES.
Love those Beverly shears have one at work to trim sheet metal rings, the throatless design makes it a snap. Bubba did a number on that one but I know Tubalcain will unbubba it
Yes
You said that the frame where the lower blade is mounted was cut using a shaper & I believe you because you showed the shaper marks. But now 15 hours later it's keeping me awake how do you use a shaper to cut a curved surface? Has to be a crazy setup I'm thinking.
I'm in Arizona and I know it's early 3am .. But you are posting this video around 5am ... I know I don't sleep a lot ... Now I know you don't either ... Take a nap... Thanks for sharing... Stay Safe and Well..
Hah, similar thing went through my head, could be early for him though.
You know you can schedual when a video gets released on UA-cam.
@@sithus1966 that means that Mr Pete is working even when he's sleeping.
I love my beverly shear. I keep a chunk of wood wedged in mine because i have an irrational fear that somehow it will accidentally cut someones fingers off when they walk by. I know...crazy, but i keep the wood in it anyway. I buy granular citric acid and make my own evaporust, it is far cheaper than buying it by the gallon. Cheers
Thanks Mr Pete !!
I was told that the evapo-rust (pronounced like evaporate) was used to remove/loosen the rust so a little work with a wire wheel removes the black finish and any remaining rust.
I said "that's a Beverly" the second I saw it. I've used one many a time to cut all kinds of shapes. Bubba would have really been in trouble getting anywhere near ours. Maybe that one came out of a muffler shop? That hardened welding splatter definitely would cause some galling and there's no galling without interference. We're talking to you, Bubba. Great video, a lot of fun to watch.
Thanks
"The fair amount measuring system," looks like it works. That sheer would be real handy at times.
Thank you mrpete.
If you own one, a pressure washer does an admirable job of removing rust and it does it almost instantaeously. small parts would have to be clamped........ that high-pressure water jet can cut you. It can remove paint as well so be careful.
When I worked at caterpillar, they had a pressure washer so powerful, they told me not to get my fingers in front of it
I've wanted to find one of those forever. Too cheap to buy one outright.
I just bought the remake from mittler Brothers,it’s a nice piece.
"My Mechanics", who is Swiss, I believe, also did a Beverly shear restoration a few years ago.
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“...pretended to be welding here....”
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I had never used one and didnt know how useful it would be but wanted one i ended up buying a copy of a Beverly from Harbor Freight. It seems to work ok if my ship comes in i may try to find a Beverly someday.
I gave up on my HF shear and bought a Woodward-Fab. It's not a Beverly, but this late in life it is plenty good for me.
Thanks for the video.
My Beverly B-3 was gray when I bought it at a factory auction. I painted it Rustoleum Smoke Gray.AL B.
You could braze and grind those galled areas
So, what is the black residue?? Steel is an alloy of iron and carbon. When steel rusts, its the iron that rusts and the carbon is freed from the alloy. Evapo-rust "dissolves the rust and frees up the carbon thus leaving the carbon residue on the surface. You may have observed the carbon residue on the surface of the electrolisis rust removed parts as well.
How can I tell if my shear is a Beverly vs a harbor freight special if the data plate is removed?
love that hat!
It would be interesting to put two clean (no rust) steel plates in the "cleaning soda" solution, and make one a cathode, and the other an anode. Leave it connected to your charger a couple days, and then look at the plates. I predict that one plate will be covered in rust. Where did that rust come from? Likely, the electrolysis process, in that setup, is also a "rust generator"?
There wasn’t that much rust on the shear as Mr. Pete pointed out. I think the electrolysis just rusted both plates. Besides, it’s a nasty messy way to remove rust.
Sir, we would like to work with you. Are you doing business?
This reminds me of mymechanics who repaired the same shear.
Pete, change the opening screen to 2022. It’s still reading 2021.
I created this video last year
sweeet, great video if you plan to reverse engineer one of these for DIY casting
I like using the electrolysis method myself .
The casting quality looks like the Harbor Freight clone version I have.
Thank you for your videos. Very informative and interesting. I have a question from one of your old ones. Tips #231 . What is the square headed bolt for that is located on the saddle, right side, just behind the screw that holds the apron on? Thanks in advance.
Carriage lock
Fair amount method = If a little bit is good more is better.
Are you interested in powder coating it? If you can send it to Tennessee, I would love to be the one to do it for you. No charge, you have passed so much knowledge it is the least I could do.
Thank you, I will keep that in mind
Have that 1912 Marshalltown #18 shear up for sale, did you ever own one ? Unique tool, but power shears came along and now collectible, kinda like use ole farts (@@)! Bear.
Sorry about that plate on there, I should have zipped that off with a plasma cutter before I sent that. I can say I did not do that bubblegum weld nor cutting the plate off of what it was welded to. I am embarrassed just on general principles to see what somebody did to that before I got it!
I am glad you watch the video. Part two will be on next Saturday. Don’t worry, I did not think that you put the steel plate on. Lol
@@mrpete222 Yes, that was my worry!
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Somebody put a lot of grunt into that thing to wear in all that galling by hand.
When did you get the iPad and who chose that macho color?
how do i get in contact with mr pete to order a video thanks
lislepete22@yahoo.com
I think that every chinesium casting company could do that thing in the the same "premium" quality. LOL . But they they do it by 10 % of the price, includet shipping.
It's E vap o rust, because you wouldn't say E VAPE orate
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10:14 E-VAH-POH Rust
When I saw the poor casting I also thought it may be wartime production.
Check out UA-cam channel "My mechanics", he did restoration of this shear too.
I will
@@mrpete222 Here's the link ua-cam.com/video/6hVeWufC4E0/v-deo.html
Other videos are great too.